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Lanny Mobley
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 10 ก.พ. 2008
XS650 Crank Bearing Removal
Here is a very simple and easy way to remove stubborn crank bearings without destroying them.
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Yamaha XS650 valve adjustment made easy
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This is the easiest, simplest way to adjust valves no matter how experienced you are. This method was given to me by Yamaha Motor Corp. service reps in the early 80's and I've been doing all valves this way with NO problems. Questions or comments, contact me at rebel542@hotmail.com. 1980 XS650, 270 re-phase with MrRiggs cam and re-phased stock points system. Elephant foot adjusters.
Great info Cerritos Yamaha would know they are one of the oldest dealers in the nation alot of desert sleds were built there
Thanks for the video Lanny, I truly enjoyed watching your bearing removal, and I might also add I think Rodney is a Dick with his chicken shit comment!
Thanks.
j'ai rien compris
Thank you this video saved my day did exact procedure and everything’s good.
Glad it helped.
Lanny, Double checking to see if I can figure out how to quiet down my 81 XS. Adjusted timing chain tension and that took a lot of noise out. Your method cracks me up!!! Been using the very same method on VW's since the early 70's!! You can zip down one side of the heads and then the other with out goofing around with the crank in between adjustments. Thank you very much. ATB, Bill
Thanks Bill for watching my video. It's nice knowing there are other "Old School" mechanics out there. Normally, cam chain and valves are the major source of noise in the XS650 so I can't imagine what other problem you may have. Hope you figure it out. Thanks again, Lanny
@@smutty542 Well, from firing up bike in my shop I do believe everything went as planned. Of course my planned test ride the next morning has been pushed several times by rain. I will get back to you with a report of highway speed noise when I can. Sure was quick and easy. It was interesting to explain what I was doing to a couple of friends that were hanging out. I think it clicked for them when I explained the difference between tappet adjustment and ignition points adjustment. Points open for a short time on the high point of the lobe while tappets are open Until the high point of the cam lobe. Easy peasy!
Yes , at last it's clear now as I suspected . After purchasing a specialized crankshaft bearing puller , still the bearing won't survive . What else can't this tool do and why bother losing money on a design you just put to shame with probably the first man made tool. Thanks ,cheers.
Thanks for watching and glad I could help.
Im no I'm on youtube
Huh?
Do you do this for each cylinder? Or only on the left side of the bike?
Excellent advice, Thank You!
Fantastic video Im your fan now Subscribe my small channel too Keep the superb work always Beste regards
Old video but great explanation, thanks!
If I've taken the trouble of stripping an engine, removing the crank and the main bearings I fit new everytime!.
Your video is useless It had no information on how to pull the enter Bearing You gave us the same infor MA from the everybody Is telling Us
@@202vaughn Thanks for watching and glad I was of help.
Interesting, I always set my clearance the way the book says, but I'd set them warm to the warm setting and it seemed alright, but when I started doing it cold and more open it's noisy, today I did it it's even noisier than ever, like valve train damage noisy, Hoping this will help. going to try the 2/4 instead of the current 3/6
This method should help. I've never adjusted valves with a warm or hot engine, always cold. If the tops of your valves are pitted it will be hard to get the noise out without replacing the valves and if you have to do that it would be the perfect time to install elephant foot adjusting screws. I tried a set from MikesXS once and found them sub-par. Contact me about a source if you choose to go that route.
I'll have to thoroughly inspect them
I'm having a little trouble understanding; so, you had the valve at max clearance (which was .006"); so then, would you want to then adjust the nut so only the ideal clearance fits? (e.g. .004") Am I correct? Should I consult the service manual for the correct clearances, or is it more of a preference/experience thing? (I think it may just be so simple it's confusing me!)
You are correct. Rotate engine while checking valve clearance until you find the maximum clearance. Without moving the crankshaft adjust valve to proper clearance. I do mine at .002 intake and .004 exhaust.
What would be the outer symptoms of worn out or faulty crankshaft bearing? I mean how do you know the bearing needs to be changed?
Hello which of the two options is better, .006 / .003 or .004 / .002 and why ... thanks
I prefer .002 intake and .004 exhaust for the Yamaha XS650. This will get you the best performance with no noise.
Can this procedure be adapted for adjusting shim-under-bucket valves? I've got a Suzi DL650 waiting for a valve adjustment.
Thanks for replying. Great insight that the crankshaft position is secondary to the actual clearance, so the marks can be safely ignored as long as you're TDC on the correct stroke.
Thanks for the video. When this method is used and then I move on to timing, do I disregard timing marks or go by idle? Seems to idle great a bit outside of marks. Begins to sputter in marks. Did cam chain, valves, now timing. Thanks again.
Using a timing light, the "F" should align at idle. Check that your ignition is advancing by revving the engine to 3000 rpm's and making sure the advance mark is spot on. If you're still running points I highly reccomend the Pamco Ignition. Thanks for watching.
Thanks Lanny, for helping!
Can I ask you where you got these two big bolts behind the points case? they look like torx/allen and stainless steel? The ones on the out side of the rocker top.
MikesXS if memory serves. They are stainless and probably could have been nicely polished if I had taken the time. They are allen. Thanks for watching.
Cool. Thanks
I will check this system for adjusting the valves clearance
Shouldn't the bike be timed before dong this? then the timing marks should line up using this method regardless of whether you're using them or not
This method has absolutely nothing to do with ignition timing. Pay no attention to the T or F marks when finding the loosest place in your valve. You can take a look when you find your loose spot just to see where they are but you'll rarely see them where you think they should be. Thanks for watching.
What about coming up on compression stroke? And TDC?
I'm not sure what you're asking me as this procedure doesn't use the TDC mark as a reference. We are simply finding the most valve clearance and adjusting the valve at that point regardless of the timing marks that Yamaha provided for engine assembly and ignition timing.
can you do a video on how to adjust the points on early xs models i see videos on other bikes but the xs ones are hard cause i feel theres always some play in the rockers of the points if you could that would be awsome thanks
Thanks for your interest. I haven't really thought about doing a video on XS650 points as most people use Pamco but I can offer some advice. I always set the gap in the middle of the range then start the engine and use a Timing Light (strobe) to make final adjustment. Hope this helps.
Is this procedure done on a cold engine ?
Yes, the engine is room temp.
unfamiliar with these bikes what are u slipping the feeler gauge under? a tappet?
I'm inserting the feeler between the valve adjusting screw and the top of the valve stem. If you look close you'll notice that this engine has elephant foot adjusters which I highly recommend.
Yes Wally, this procedure works for most non hydraulic valve designs. Your engine is the same basic design that Yamaha has used since 1981 with the XV750 and the chain drive 920 and I know this way works great on that type of engine. I've done them for years with super performance and no noise.
Is there an easy way to do it for the XVS650, an 07? Thanks
Good video. My inner bearings need replacing, have you ever done it?
Yes I have. You'll need to separate the two crank half's. It's a pain in the butt. The neatest way I've seen to do this is by a guy named Mr Riggs. I think I saw his pictorial on XS650 Forum but could be wrong. He used a series of wedges and a press to do it and not have to true it afterwords. If you have a press I'll try to find the procedure and send it to you.
Looking at the cost of bearings and the fact that I would have the trouble of doing it all, I decided to get a reconditioned crank with all new parts.
I don't blame you.
Thank you Lanny, interesting and good video
Thanks for watching.
For those in doubt if this is REALLY the way to adjust your valves : it is..... :)
thanks ,have just rephased my motor with a pma as well ,this will solve the problem of no timing marks
You are so right about the valves being noisy if you go by the book (Clymer). Thank you for this valuable information. I wish I had come across it years ago. Better late than never.
I'm impressed. Thank you for your time!!
Snapring BTW not sirclip....
+Dylan Proctor I stand corrected. Thanks for watching.
Oh, come on you are pissing Vinegar now, snapring, sirclip...same!
I love it: "do it this way if you like, or do it the hard way"
Thank you very much sir....from across the pond ...I like easy ...ha ha ha
Lanny, I just adjusted my valves with your great video (thanks) now I have a slight puff of grey smoke when throttle returns and my plugs are wet. Bike runs good still and before it was rich blackish plugs but no smoke. Any way you could help?
MrSpaghettiO
Did you ever solve your issue the smoke after using this method?
You can make finding the max gap easier by first removing the spark plugs. It gives you more control at holding the critical point when making the adjustment.
Hi, just watched your video...very simple, and I really like the approach. But just so I am clear, you setting that exhaust valve to .006 at it's largest gap, and then you would want to match .006 on the other exhaust valve, correct? Similarly, you stated .003 for the two intake valves (At their highest point/gap), do I have that correct? Thanks!
Yes thats correct. You can run your clearances tighter if you like. As close as .002" for intake and .004" for exhaust with no problems.
They make a puller that slips right behind that bearing in-between the crank to get that off. I got one. So worth the money if ya do a lot of small engines.
They make lots of pullers that slip behind it but none that I've found that don't touch the caged portion of the bearing. If you pull against the roller cage it will distort it and ruin the bearing.
Very cool, thanks. So you found the spot where there is most clearance on that valve, correct? Then if you continued this video you would've then taken your .004 feeler gauge and adjusted that valve until the .004 gauge just easily slipped in and out?
Thats right. This is so simple. Sorry if my presentation wasn't clear. Find that point where you have the most clearance and adjust your valve to the desired clearance. You never have to look at those timing marks. Super fast and simple.
Thank That helps alot.
Yes, .002 for intake and .004 for your exhaust
Lanny Mobley will this method work on an xs400
Sorry for the long wait. Yes, this method will work on any engine that doesn't have hydraulic lifters.
Will this method (seting) 2000 on intake 4000 exhust work on a 1982 xs650 ?
YES