My God! Proper use of the torque wrench! Smooth constant pressure, not jerking on it. And not making it click five bloody times!!! I think I'm going to cry... Well done, yet again sir!
Bro!!!! So many videos out there about whether running spacers are good or bad, kinda scary. Especially with having a family, plus the safety of all the other other motorists on the road whether I should run spacers or not. Ive watched almost all your videos and came across this one. I trust you, not because you're a TH-camr, but because you are one of the most honest people I've seen on TH-cam. Good or bad you always tell it like it is. You're very thorough in all your explanations and how to's. If you're comfortable running spacers, then I trust that and will be ordering some SpydeTrax myself. Thanks and keep up all the great content! Very much appreciated!!!
This gentleman Always gets back to you and usually extremely fast. He deserves to be subscribed to and I encourage everyone to do so. Always true advice..... grateful!
everytime i have a question about parts i think i need for my JL, you always have the answer in a video. I greatly appreciate the videos as always guys!!
I watch this and I actually ended up with a wheel spacer because my front had to clear my Teraflex Delta brakes. My axle width got wider now and I'm contemplating if I should change my wheels etc. However after seeing this I may re-consider lol. Once again, I learn something every time I watch your videos. "UNTUCKED LOOK" hahaha
Ideally, 3.5" of total back spacing is about as little as I would go. If with these spacers you are running less, I would consider new wheels that just has less than what you had to begin with.
One of the many reasons I bought my Jeep JL Moab edition was the black wheels that came with but I wanted to upgrade to larger tires and many reviews about spacers made me uncomfortable Till I came across your video and after watching your review I comfortably ordered exactly the same spacers and the rest is history 🙏🏻👏
I installed a set of SpiderTrax on The YETI a few months ago. After installing Rubicon suspension along w/ wheels and tires it gave it a much more aggressive stance. They look great! I probably went a little overboard by sanding all the surface rust off the hat of the rotor and edge of the hub. Force of habit from brake jobs and also a car with 30 series tires that transfer all feeling into the steering wheel.
Just ordered a set of Synergy spacers for my 2021 80th Edition. They come with special edition wheels so I really didn't want to change them out. Look forward to getting them installed. Thanks for the great videos.
This video is timely and more valuable then you’ll ever know. I plan on running stock wheels with my JT when it arrives and I have always been skeptical about spacers. Thanks for the confidence and validation Eddie!
I ran Spidertrax wheel spacers for about 10 years on my TJ and never had a problem, not once. The other thing is Spidertrax are hub centric as opposed to being lug centric. So the wheel stays centered on the hub for smooth running. And that blue anodizing looks really good! lol
Ran the same spacers on my JK for over 2 years. Never had issues and loved the way it changed the stance. I have rims with a back space so I don’t need them on my JL. But if I did, I’d use Spidertrax again!
I have the same wheel spacers on our JK. I was nervous putting them on as i've heard stories of people losing wheels from loose spacers. But so far so good!
Teraflex 1.75" wheel spacers on my 2021 stock height jeep JL wrangler rubicon 2 door with stock 17" moab wheels; with 33" k02's. Would you please share with me your expert opinion on any issues to be expected from such a set up. Premature Unit bearing wear, ball joint wear, rubbing on inner fender liners, handling, alignment, and so forth? Any info will be greatly appreciated. Your channel has helped me ball joint install, fluid changes, and so much more; thank you, and Cindy for all the great how to content, wheeling, and quality upstanding human behavior on this channel. Sad to see PiPi go, but happy the 2 of you aquired another gladiator! Thank you, Brandon 😇
Happy to hear our videos have been helpful to you. As far as your wheel spacers go, I would say that as long as they're made well and you make sure to use red locktite on the studs and make sure to tighten everything to 130 ft lbs of torque, you shouldn't have to worry about anything there. Just like any wheel with less backspacing, your ball joints and unit bearings will wear out sooner but it's not like they're going to self destruct or anything like that.
Ran those on my JK. Running 35's on my JL with 3.5" of back space. Once I get 37's or 38's, may visit this option again. Properly fitted and installed spacers are great although some don't understand that. Having someone like you do this may help open their eyes. But then again, sometimes you just can't fix stupid, LOL! Great video y'all, keep em coming!🤘
Anyone asking about safety here’s my 2 cents from experience. As he says, a good quality HUB centric spacer, installed properly is safe. I ran them on a Mustang for years even on the drag strip. Now I run them on my Jeep and off road as much as possible. Follow the torque specs and instructions. Recheck after 100 miles. Good to go!
Just like I say in the video, you do NOT want to use spacers that just get sandwiched in between your axle and wheels. Those are dangerous and should NOT be used. High quality ones like these Spidertrax bolt up to your axle and then your wheels to them. When installed correctly, they should work no differently than new wheels with less back spacing. The pro to these is that they're affordable and will help you to clear suspension components. The con, just like any wheel with less back spacing, they will cause your ball joints and unit bearings to wear out prematurely.
We’ll said that’s why I love your videos you always point out the best route on projects an safest which saves big headaches in the long run for us thank you on always bringing the best
Remember the "untucked look" in some states won't pass inspection. I had that problem every year when I lived in Utah. I had a set of "fender extensions" I would have to throw on to get through inspection. Luckily the county I live in now in Georgia has no safety inspection so I'm free to do whatever I want :)
Don't know if anyone has suggested that when doing such spacer (aluminum) to place some antiseize on the points where it would touch your steel rotor. The 2 different material surfaces have an erratic agreement between them and usually its a fight to break them apart. To add, when doing the front (or rear), with a vented rotor, you can use lugs with a pry bar as you had shown, or take a thick screwdriver, drift, etc and place into vent of the rotor and have it press against the caliper bracket. Another note, since these are add-ons, to gain access to the rotor removal (as in rear to inspect parking brake pads/function), you do have to remove the spacer and retorque when placing back on. Some say to re-apply the locktite as well. I would also recommend to check the torque on the spacer (wheel removal) after 500 miles or so. And if used with a larger, much larger tire, heavy trail use.
I don't get it. Factory wheels are aluminum and I don't ever recall seeing antiseize being used on them. I've run tons of aluminum aftermarket wheels in the past and have never seen this be an issue. I have run wheel spacers like these on most of the Jeeps that I've owned over the last 25 years and have never seen it be an issue. Regarding the tightening of bolts, I fail to see why that would be a better solution than just shifting transfer case in gear. I mean, it that really so difficult? If you need to inspect something like the parking brake shoes, yes, you would need to remove the spacer. Reinstalling it would require new loctite. Also, I do believe I state in the video that you should check torque after 100 miles but then, that's just me.
I believe you have a bit more leverage when removing a wheel as opposed to a stuck spacer ! I use anti seize on the hub, it’s cheap insurance. Your Jeep, do whatever you think is best.
Everytime I watch your amazing videos it seems I'm always buying something I like these spidertrax I know you said they are 1.75" thick, does that mean your tire will extend out 1.75"? Thank you for your amazing videos
Years being an Auto Technician, Felpro Gasket rep trained me besides Torque sequence that every inch of extension length, torque foot pounds settings has to decrease per inch of the length or risk of over stretching the treads or over torquing. I was also given a chart guide.
@@acd3169 You are talking about offset extensions, yes that is the case. Yet for a axial direction only extension you do not have to modify anything. I am a ME and if you need further proof here you go: rtstools.com/does-an-extension-affect-a-torque-wrench/
Always very informative and well put together. Love that you go through all this so when it becomes time to build my JL I’ll have all the info I will need. 👍👍👍👍👍
It's important that you should buy a spacer that is hub-centric. And many mfgr. spec anti-seize on the back of the spacer so there is less chance of the aluminum of the spacer and steel of the rotor reacting/corroding.
These Spidertrax wheel spacers are made specifically for a JL Wrangler and are hub-centric. I have never used anti-seize on the back of them and have never had a problem with corrosion. Granted, I do live in Nevada and corrosion is not really an issue here.
I use ant-seize on all the lugs, spacer and wheel.... I may be wrong and I check them every 3k miles when I do my rotations. I currently have this type of spacer on my crawler and JK wheeler. Never had an issue. I know there are skeptics, but that is my personal experience.
@@billybadass411thefirst9 Anti-seize I think is okay on the lugs. But for sure use loctite on the original lugs (like is mentioned in the video). What you should never do is follow internet advice and put motor oil on your lugs! Ask me how I know. They will loosen up in 100 miles or less.
Ken Hadden 10k miles on the wheeler/daily driver JK (6 state road trip, Moab, big bear, Miller Jeep trail, Rowher trail, and other) on the rock crawler, 3 rubicon trips, countless trips to the hammers (sledge, jack, claw, wrecking ball, turkey claw, bullfrog and more), Callico gatekeeper (multiple times)..... you get the idea. I personally have never had a problem with this type of spacer or using anti-seize. If I ever do, I’ll switch to lock tight.
I always use anti seize on my wheels also but we live in sw Michigan don't like having to beat my wheels off with a big hammer.@@billybadass411thefirst9
Definitely, appreciate these how to's with the JL you have been doing. My plans are to buy a used Wrangler and build it. (I cant find myself to buy a new one to do it with.) By the time I do it there might be some used JL's out there but I still think the JK will be what I get. Im still stuck on the 2014 Copperhead Pearl.
My preferred method of holding the front wheel still is to put a screw driver or punch in the middle of the fins of the rotor and spin it until it holds itself against the caliper bracket
It looks like one of your rear beadlock ring bolts is backing out (just a heads up). I wanted to get those KMC wheels but needed less backspacing. I'm glad to see they look great with wheel spacers. I was afraid it would be too much.
Good eye! As a matter of fact, that one was. We did just get them installed and checking all the bolts was something I did do shortly after installing these spacers.
Hey dude, nice info in the video. I would have point out the hub center to locate the wheel on dead center as this is a vary good feature. The only problem I have is the red loctite. This requires heat for future repair. I would be using blue even though the red it is supplied in the kit. I had a stepson use red loctite on wheels once and spent three hours getting them off. The torque specs seem a little high as alloys at the Buick dealer was 85 ft. Lbs. I look at it from a dealer prospective but also a husband of 40 years. If my wife has a flat, I taught her what to do and why. But using the factory lug wrench and OEM supplied tools, she could not get lug nuts off. I had bought a used 4 X 4 and new I had to replace the outer CV Boots. First was new tires. I made a good deal for a tire I wanted. They put them on and 15 minutes after getting home, could not get half of the front lugs nuts off. The rest, right & left spun the bolt inside the hub. Not all hubs are created them same. From the factory, their design left little meat on the hub for the knurled section to hold onto than I would like, plus their torque book was wrong as I brought the factory service manual in. Then torque sticks where different colors mean different torques, but by different manufacturers. How much air pressure, old air impact or new. SnapOn or Sears. The number of taps the hammer hit they anvil to twist the yellow torque stick until it stops. 10 of these will produce 10 different torque specs. I dare any tech to have his own wife break those lug nuts loose with their foot. No 6 foot cheater pipe on a breaker bar. Sorry, bad memories come flooding back just thinking about it. Much less the two days it took them to get a used hub with studs and install my new tires. Thanks for they video and everyone hit like & subscribe! It’s worth having good info. I didn’t have TH-cam in 78 when I took 8 test, passed all and was certified and NIASE Master. The only one in a dealership with 12 guys. Blessings!
The wheel studs are 14mm and the torque spec for them is correct and same as if they were 9/16" studs. I've been running both for well over a decade and using 130 ft lbs and without ANY problems. As far as red loctite goes, it's what is provided because it's critical that the nuts stay in place once installed. These are nuts that you can only see if you remove the wheels. Again, I have been running wheel spacers on and off on most of my Jeeps and have always used red and without ANY problems. Both are what I would ONLY recommend for this application.
Some comments in other posts say to never use the red loctite on the threads and to use the blue instead. They said it's very difficult to remove the lug nuts when you have used red. I used the red because that's what Spidertrax supplied and hope it's not too difficult to loosen them when the time comes. Some said they had to use high heat to loosen them. As often as you change things, I'm sure we're going to find out in one of you future vids lol.
Well, I don't know who they are but it sounds to me like they need to ask for their balls back from their mom or significant other. I have run Spidertrax wheel spacers on numerous Jeeps in the past and have NEVER had any issues removing the lug nuts with red loctite. NONE.
@@wayalife Thanks for the reassurance. Nobody making spacers has a better reputation than Spicertrax which again, is why I used what they supplied on my old 78' CJ. Just added them a a little extra width.
@@wayalife lol get their balls back. Hahaha. No crap right. Not like trying to torque control arm bolts to 190 ft lbs with minimal space on the ground. Shit...red loctite and lugs are a breeze compared to that. Ask me how I know.
Ugh. Has 392 Rubicon rims with 315s on them stock...no rub. Installed the Clayton overland plus 2.5 on my JT and have some rub on the lower front control arms. They are super beefy arms so. But after the cost of the lift and shocks...and the rims and tires ...only option for me right now is a spacer. Soooo just ordered these. I'd prefer rims with enough backspacing as I'm kinda worried about running spacers. Wish me luck!
you can't check for torque on the spacer lugs, you put locktite on the threads. If you re-torque and the nut moves, the locktite is useless at that point. unless your talking about the wheel nuts then ok, that makes sense.
@@kartboarder22g17 It's all Cindy. If you can believe it, she never took a class and never held a video camera before we started doing all this. She does appreciate your kind words :)
Just bought a 20 jeep wrangler sahara unlimited JL 4dr. N I'm already having issues.bought it with 23000miles.appointment is on sept9. I have water on my driver side front n rear floorboard. I have a jingling sound coming from front pass suspension area,n the jeep shakes badly when I go past 65mph.I bought jeep with 35" wheels n it has a slight lift with rough country shocks,n roughcou try dual stabilizers. I also ordered the synergy HD steering kit.the thing is,is that aftermarket wheels etc on the jeep is going to void warranty,,even though I bought the jeep that way from a non jeep dealer.they installed wheels etc.what should I do? Should I go back to them? Where can the leak be coming from?Love your videos n what you bring to the jeep community. Your the reason I got a jl.thanks and stay safe
Sorry, without seeing pics, it's hard to say for sure where the leak is coming from. Post them up on WAYALIFE.com and I and others would be more than happy to help out. If you're unhappy with your Jeep, I would take it back to the dealership that you bought it from before it's too late.
@@wayalife lol never bring it back.I love my jeep.if there's one thing I learned from you is to get in there and just do it. n I'm doing just that.I actually fixed 2 of the 3 issues.the water issue I figured if the water is soaking mY top mat because there's a floor carpet,a custom floor mat n then I have factory mat on top.if the top got wet then the leak is coming from dashboard or freedomtops.so I popped the hood n it turns out that the dealership ran the litebar thats over the windshield thru the grommet hole by the brake booster. They took out the grommet n left it that way with the wire running thru hole so I checked under dash n found dirty water trail from the grommet hole to my floor.Bingo.sealed it up n it rained yesterday n no water.yessss as for the wobble I figured its not a death wobble cause I can slow down n I'm ok so process of elimination.I checked my front rims and noticed that driverside rim had about 6 speed balance weights on it while the pass.side had only 2..I checked the rear tires n they also had 6 weights as well.now I know that there's different weight sizes.but that still sounds fishy.so I went to tire shop n had that rim speed balanced, n mind you dealer didn't supply me with the lug nut remover,smh. Thankfully tire shop had one. They did the speed bal.I took the jeep on the highway n ran it to about 82mph n no shake.Yesssss so I fixed 2 issues and all I had to do was use my head.now I have to go to dealer n raise hell for causing the water problem because my jeep might not be the only one that way,n to also complain of the no lug nut tool.the 3rd issue I'll have to really get in there(sounds like washers jingling) but suspension looks tight n nothing looks loose.so if I can't locate problem I'll take to dealer for them to look. But watching your videos and asking questions from other jeepers,I was able to take control and get I. There and learn about my Jeep. This jeep is now my "Wayalife".sold my trailblazer,selling my Honda n now I'm a jeep for life.love your videos keep up the great work
Nice video! Being on a budget yet still wanting to mod, this might be a good option to keep my factory wheels a bit longer and put 35s on my sport. The price of the spacers allows me to spend that extra money on other stuff.
I can see ZERO reason why you wouldn't be able to. But then, unless you have all adjustable components, the most an alignment shop can do is take your money to do a whole lot of nothing.
I suppose it depends on what the wheels you're running look like on the back side. Typically, on a JL Wrangler, you would need 1.75" spacers to help clear the factory wheel studs. Failure to do this often times result in the wheels pressing against the studs instead of clearing them and this can cause the studs to fail. I would double check to make sure this is not an issue with your wheels.
You always need to tighten your lug nuts based on the stud size and thread pitch. So, for the factory studs on your axles, tighten the lug nuts to factory spec. On the wheel spacers, you would do the same unless they have bigger studs. For a Jeep JL Wrangler, the studs are 14mm and that's why the nuts are tightened to 130 ft lbs.
Great video , good info. 😎 Eddie how do you keep everything looking so clean !?? Divulge your secrets to keeping your Awesome jeeps looking so beautiful ( would you mind ?). Those dusty desert rides get , well gets white dust and mud everywhere, how do you get it all cleaned up ? Cleanest tire I’ve ever seen !! 😎😎😎😎
Surprised you didn't change the wheels instead when you did the coil overs? You mentioned it at the time. I would speculate that bigger axles are coming in the future and was a cost and or availability issue since you would need to change again to 8 on 6.5? Excellent work as usual. Thanks for sharing. OlllllllO
Are these spacers in ur amazon store? Just want to support u when ever i can. I think WAYALIFE is totally awesome! And I want you guys to be around for decades to come. Thanks again for another awesome video
Thats shaping up to be an incredible build. Im jealous and happy for you and can't wait to see what it can do. Love your vids, just wish the music was better....literally the only thing that can be improved. Keep it up, guys,
LOL - to be fair, I probably wouldn't like the kind of music you prefer. We all have our own tastes and and hope you can bear through what we prefer to use.
Not sure what would give you the idea that they aren't or that you would think I'd run something that isn't anyway and on multiple Jeeps over the last 25 years.
Hi love the videos! I Just bought a 2020 JL wrangler Sport with a 2.5 in lift and 35 in grapplers and thought wheel spacers would improve the stance and look great! I called the so called truck specialist at the dealership who told me it would void my warranty...He talked to me like I was 12 years old and said "don't they stick out far enough already why would you do something like that"? I don't know if I believe him. BTW I crawl around town from the store to the pharmacy avoiding puddles so not like its going to be used even a little rough. Just want the look. Would you put them on and if so what size? Thank you !
Most tire shops and even dealerships won't service a Jeep with wheel spacers or at least, if working on wheels and tires is required. However, a dealership can't just void your warranty just because you have them. They'd need to prove that whatever it is you're wanting to have fixed or replaced was caused by them. In other words, if your radio blew out, they couldn't just say that they won't cover it because you have wheel spacers.
So first of all looks bad ass but I got to ask and I know people may give me crap for this but if you know you can premature wear ur ball joints why do spacers and then have to spend money on ball joints cause of the spacers
Sorry, I'm not 100% sure I'm understanding what you wrote but if I got it right, you would install spacers like these IF you're running bigger tires and or have a new suspension system that causes rubbing at a full flex and or turn. Pushing your wheels further out will help to clear components.
On wheel spacer...do u need to retorque after a few miles.....and will re torque the wheel spacer nuts break the bond of the red lock tight......for I am using teraflex 1.75 spacer with lots of red lock tight dripping off the studs to make sure it does its job.... to re torque means u may end up moving the not which can break the bond...what's ur take on this....and think u for ur time and videos..
You can check the torque after about 100 miles. Just set your wrench to a lower value such as 120 as opposed to 130. After that, no check should be needed.
Some tire shops won't install them but you shouldn't have any problems with it. Back in the day, we used to call that a poor mans beadlock as it holds on to the bead tighter.
@@wayalife sorry to bother... This got my thinkin' juices flowin'... If I keep the stock JL tire carrier, use a spacer there, too, for the additional width? Can't thank you enough again!
@@bjornholmquist5019 You can do that but you NEED to make sure that the sidewall of your spare presses FIRMLY against the rubber isolator on the tailgate. If you don't, the spare will jiggle and eventually cause things to break.
Actually, it will cause things like your ball joints and unit bearings to wear out prematurely. Not that big of a deal but there are no performance gains other than widening up your stance and maybe making your center of gravity a little lower.
After the first check, there should be no reason to check them again outside of a visual check. Use a paint pen to mark your bolts and that'll show you if anything has moved. None should even after the first 100 miles if you installed them correctly.
Hello....another great video...good info...I have a question....what the max size space one should use....I running stock tire and wheel (31inch)..2020 JL..and I like the look of a wider stance...is 1.75 to much...??
1.75" is the minimum you can go. Any thinner and the factory wheel studs will protrude beyond the spacer and interfere with your wheel mating flush and installing properly.
If you're keeping your factory wheels or running aftermarket ones with a similar design, the factory studs on your axle WILL prevent your wheels from sitting flush with it and it WILL cause a dangerous failure. This is something I have personally seen.
I'm in the same boat you were in. My wheels are 17x9.5 with 4.5" backspacing though, and I don't wanna spend another $2500 on wheels to fix this. With the spidertrax spacers I'd be at 2.75" of backspace on a d44. Is the 1/4" difference between yours, and mine a big deal? Or should I install shorter studs, and go with a 1.5" spacer? Thank you! Great videos!
I want this exact look with my jk. My wheel is 17x9 backspacing 4.528 Inch, 115.1mm. Only stick out like half an inch with these. To get the look you have with my rims would i need a 2 inch wheel spacer or less?
Factory wheels are 6.25". A good backspacing to give you an untucked look would be 3.5". 2" spacers would put you at 2.5" of back spacing and me personally, that might be a bit too little. I might recommending 1.5" spacers for your needs.
Quick question. I was told you cannot do highway speeds all the time with spacers. It this a myth? It is a silly question I know. I run spacers and no trouble. This video just reminded me what a 4X4 store told me.
Hey Guys, Love the channel, Before you had fitted the spacer, where was the wheel rubbing Does the Coilover suspension take up more wheel backspace area Was looking running a setup like yourself, but looking at a "near" flush look for Australian conditions
The only horror stories I hear are from people who tell me about what stories they've read on the internet. Me, I've been running high quality wheel spacers like the kind that Spidertrax makes for almost 30 years and on just about every Jeep I've owned. And I can say, not a single one has ever failed or been a problem for me. Granted, I know I've installed mine properly and check them on a regular basis and can't speak for anyone else as to what their running or how they installed theirs.
@@wayalife this definitely makes me feel better, I should have mine in a few days from Amazon and I can’t wait to install them, thanks for the reply and for sharing your experiences and knowledge with the rest of us.
great video, pretty much was the final selling point for me getting some spidertrax. about how long can one expect before starting to see premature bearing wear or anything else on a completely stock JL aside from these spacers?
It really depends on how you drive your Jeep. For normal driving, they should still last a long time. Even with rock crawling, they'll do fine. Where they really put a strain on ball joints and unit bearings is driving hard and fast across the desert.
Hey Eddie great video I got to JT and I put a set of synergy one and three quarter inch on mine did everything like you did just one question do you think I should put anti-seize between the spacers and the Hub I am in Canada and I plan on leaving them on all year round so we get a lot of weather and use salt on our road
I’ve seen another video where they say, you should wire brush all the rust off the face of the hub before installing the wheel spacer, just the part where the wheel spacer is going to sit flush. Do you recommend that or is it ok to leave it rusty? I know aluminum won’t rust, but maybe a more flush mount?
Should have cleaned the rust off the rotor and applied anti-seize. Will defn be a pita to get them off later if you ever have to do brake or axle work on the Jeep.
I admit that at 25+ years of doing this Jeep thing, I'm kind of new but I can't say that I've ever had a problem by not using antiseize. Perhaps I'll learn someday.
Wayalife wasn’t saying you were new at it, but maybe it’s just because you don’t live in the rust belt you haven’t had an issue yet. Have seen a lot of them stuck on and not able to get them off because of the rust. Even wheels that people couldn’t get off their hubs because of rust.
Thanks for the video. I think jeeps do look better with wheel spacers. My question is...I own a gladiator with 1.5 level kit on it now. I am upgrading to 37’ tires on 17’ rims. I have seen gladiators that can run this size of tire without a lift. I plan on getting one later but is a wheel spacer good idea for the gladiator or not?? Pros and cons?
First off, IF you decide to run a spacer, you really need to make sure to get a high quality one like this Spidertrax. Pros is that you can run a wider tire and without the kind of rubbing issues you might have without them. Some uneducated people will suggest that they're dangerous but again, so long as you get a high quality one like these, you will be fine. The biggest con to them is that they will push your wheels/tires out far enough that your ball joints and unit bearings will wear out prematurely. Not a huge deal but it is worth noting.
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My God! Proper use of the torque wrench! Smooth constant pressure, not jerking on it. And not making it click five bloody times!!! I think I'm going to cry... Well done, yet again sir!
LOL - too funny but I hear where you're coming from :)
Bro!!!! So many videos out there about whether running spacers are good or bad, kinda scary. Especially with having a family, plus the safety of all the other other motorists on the road whether I should run spacers or not. Ive watched almost all your videos and came across this one. I trust you, not because you're a TH-camr, but because you are one of the most honest people I've seen on TH-cam. Good or bad you always tell it like it is. You're very thorough in all your explanations and how to's. If you're comfortable running spacers, then I trust that and will be ordering some SpydeTrax myself. Thanks and keep up all the great content! Very much appreciated!!!
Happy to hear that our videos are helpful to you.
I often watch your videos for the right information. Thanks again.
Awesome! Glad to hear you find our videos to be helpful 👍
This gentleman Always gets back to you and usually extremely fast. He deserves to be subscribed to and I encourage everyone to do so. Always true advice..... grateful!
Why thank you. I really do appreciate the compliment :)
In essence, spacers are safe when installed properly and when purchased from a reputable source. Thank you for this.
That is correct or at least, from what I have seen over the last 25 years.
When I watch your videos, it reminds me of fixing cars with my dad when I was a kid. Thanks for the content!
That's awesome. So glad you enjoy our videos :)
everytime i have a question about parts i think i need for my JL, you always have the answer in a video. I greatly appreciate the videos as always guys!!
Awesome! Glad we could be of help :)
You're killing it you! The only complaint I have about your channel is I want videos more often lol
LOL - Thank you and we apologize for our inability to film and edit our videos faster.
I watch this and I actually ended up with a wheel spacer because my front had to clear my Teraflex Delta brakes. My axle width got wider now and I'm contemplating if I should change my wheels etc. However after seeing this I may re-consider lol. Once again, I learn something every time I watch your videos. "UNTUCKED LOOK" hahaha
Ideally, 3.5" of total back spacing is about as little as I would go. If with these spacers you are running less, I would consider new wheels that just has less than what you had to begin with.
One of the many reasons I bought my Jeep JL Moab edition was the black wheels that came with but I wanted to upgrade to larger tires and many reviews about spacers made me uncomfortable
Till I came across your video and after watching your review
I comfortably ordered exactly the same spacers and the rest is history 🙏🏻👏
LOL - well, I'm glad that our video was helpful to you.
Any issues since you installed? Thanks
Great video. I was hesitant to use spacers until I watched your video.
LOL - well, I would never pretend to know as much as what you can read on the internet but I do hope I was able to help out with this video.
I installed a set of SpiderTrax on The YETI a few months ago. After installing Rubicon suspension along w/ wheels and tires it gave it a much more aggressive stance. They look great! I probably went a little overboard by sanding all the surface rust off the hat of the rotor and edge of the hub. Force of habit from brake jobs and also a car with 30 series tires that transfer all feeling into the steering wheel.
Just ordered a set of Synergy spacers for my 2021 80th Edition. They come with special edition wheels so I really didn't want to change them out. Look forward to getting them installed. Thanks for the great videos.
Awesome! Hope this video helps you with the install :)
So easy and to the point. Gave sizes of JL and JKs, torque spex, the whole thing.
And didnt ramble on and on and have a big long intro.
Nice vid
LOL - glad we could be of help.
This is easily the most informative channel.
Why thank you, we're so happy to hear you say as much 😊
This video is timely and more valuable then you’ll ever know. I plan on running stock wheels with my JT when it arrives and I have always been skeptical about spacers. Thanks for the confidence and validation Eddie!
Awesome! So glad that we could be of help to you :)
I ran Spidertrax wheel spacers for about 10 years on my TJ and never had a problem, not once. The other thing is Spidertrax are hub centric as opposed to being lug centric. So the wheel stays centered on the hub for smooth running. And that blue anodizing looks really good! lol
LOL - the blue is a bonus for sure :)
Ran the same spacers on my JK for over 2 years. Never had issues and loved the way it changed the stance. I have rims with a back space so I don’t need them on my JL. But if I did, I’d use Spidertrax again!
Glad to hear you had good experience with them as well.
I am always impressed with the education in your videos. Very helpful!!
Really happy to hear you find our videos to be educational. 😊
I have the same wheel spacers on our JK. I was nervous putting them on as i've heard stories of people losing wheels from loose spacers. But so far so good!
The stories you heard are from people who ran cheap chinese spacers OR didn't install what they had properly.
Teraflex 1.75" wheel spacers on my 2021 stock height jeep JL wrangler rubicon 2 door with stock 17" moab wheels; with 33" k02's. Would you please share with me your expert opinion on any issues to be expected from such a set up. Premature Unit bearing wear, ball joint wear, rubbing on inner fender liners, handling, alignment, and so forth? Any info will be greatly appreciated. Your channel has helped me ball joint install, fluid changes, and so much more; thank you, and Cindy for all the great how to content, wheeling, and quality upstanding human behavior on this channel. Sad to see PiPi go, but happy the 2 of you aquired another gladiator!
Thank you, Brandon 😇
Happy to hear our videos have been helpful to you. As far as your wheel spacers go, I would say that as long as they're made well and you make sure to use red locktite on the studs and make sure to tighten everything to 130 ft lbs of torque, you shouldn't have to worry about anything there. Just like any wheel with less backspacing, your ball joints and unit bearings will wear out sooner but it's not like they're going to self destruct or anything like that.
Using SpiderTrax....Great Quality, and Made in the USA... Priority # 1 😃
Yup. Happy to buy and support Made in the USA
Ran those on my JK. Running 35's on my JL with 3.5" of back space. Once I get 37's or 38's, may visit this option again. Properly fitted and installed spacers are great although some don't understand that. Having someone like you do this may help open their eyes. But then again, sometimes you just can't fix stupid, LOL! Great video y'all, keep em coming!🤘
LOL - Can't fix what people have read on the internet. That stuff is gospel :)
@@wayalife Right??🙄🙄🤣🤣
Very educational and entertaining. I just wish I would have watched this before installing my spacers 😂
LOL - glad to hear you enjoyed our video and found it to be educational 😎
Anyone asking about safety here’s my 2 cents from experience. As he says, a good quality HUB centric spacer, installed properly is safe. I ran them on a Mustang for years even on the drag strip. Now I run them on my Jeep and off road as much as possible. Follow the torque specs and instructions. Recheck after 100 miles. Good to go!
Thks for the great video. I'm a new Rubicon JL owner and ordered the spidertrax spacers after watching your video. Thks for sharing 😊 👍
Glad I could help :)
Your jeep just keeps looking better and better. Excellent job.
Thank you :)
I always wondered about spacers hearing pros an cons over the years I like the none tucked look just looks sweet as always be safe
Just like I say in the video, you do NOT want to use spacers that just get sandwiched in between your axle and wheels. Those are dangerous and should NOT be used. High quality ones like these Spidertrax bolt up to your axle and then your wheels to them. When installed correctly, they should work no differently than new wheels with less back spacing. The pro to these is that they're affordable and will help you to clear suspension components. The con, just like any wheel with less back spacing, they will cause your ball joints and unit bearings to wear out prematurely.
We’ll said that’s why I love your videos you always point out the best route on projects an safest which saves big headaches in the long run for us thank you on always bringing the best
Remember the "untucked look" in some states won't pass inspection. I had that problem every year when I lived in Utah. I had a set of "fender extensions" I would have to throw on to get through inspection. Luckily the county I live in now in Georgia has no safety inspection so I'm free to do whatever I want :)
Oh yeah, this is a problem in a lot of states. In California, you need to have mud flaps too.
Very useful Wayne. This is a very informative video to this installation.😇
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you so much for the concise informative tutorial. My plan is to install Spidertrax 1.25" wheel spacers on a 1980 CJ5.
Awesome, glad we could be of help to you :)
Omg, you make it look so easy
LOL - well, it really is that easy if you follow the steps in this video 😎
Always enjoy the videos, you have so much info but it never drones on, appreciate all the work keep it up!!
Thank you. We're so glad that you enjoy our videos :)
Don't know if anyone has suggested that when doing such spacer (aluminum) to place some antiseize on the points where it would touch your steel rotor. The 2 different material surfaces have an erratic agreement between them and usually its a fight to break them apart.
To add, when doing the front (or rear), with a vented rotor, you can use lugs with a pry bar as you had shown, or take a thick screwdriver, drift, etc and place into vent of the rotor and have it press against the caliper bracket.
Another note, since these are add-ons, to gain access to the rotor removal (as in rear to inspect parking brake pads/function), you do have to remove the spacer and retorque when placing back on. Some say to re-apply the locktite as well. I would also recommend to check the torque on the spacer (wheel removal) after 500 miles or so. And if used with a larger, much larger tire, heavy trail use.
I don't get it. Factory wheels are aluminum and I don't ever recall seeing antiseize being used on them. I've run tons of aluminum aftermarket wheels in the past and have never seen this be an issue. I have run wheel spacers like these on most of the Jeeps that I've owned over the last 25 years and have never seen it be an issue.
Regarding the tightening of bolts, I fail to see why that would be a better solution than just shifting transfer case in gear. I mean, it that really so difficult?
If you need to inspect something like the parking brake shoes, yes, you would need to remove the spacer. Reinstalling it would require new loctite. Also, I do believe I state in the video that you should check torque after 100 miles but then, that's just me.
I believe you have a bit more leverage when removing a wheel as opposed to a stuck spacer ! I use anti seize on the hub, it’s cheap insurance. Your Jeep, do whatever you think is best.
Everytime I watch your amazing videos it seems I'm always buying something I like these spidertrax I know you said they are 1.75" thick, does that mean your tire will extend out 1.75"? Thank you for your amazing videos
LOL - glad to hear you find our videos to be helpful. Yes, your tires would stick out 1.75"
@@wayalife thank you Eddie
Your videos are really helping me out. I appreciate it!
Awesome! So glad to hear it! 😎
Terrific video, Eddie and Cindy. I've just placed my order. Looking forward to seeing they improve the stance of my JL2DR.
Awesome! So glad that we could be of help to you :)
You got me with “Made in the USA”. 🇺🇸🇺🇸
Curious how many will comment about the extension on the torque wrench. 😮😮
What? why lol
Years being an Auto Technician, Felpro Gasket rep trained me besides Torque sequence that every inch of extension length, torque foot pounds settings has to decrease per inch of the length or risk of over stretching the treads or over torquing. I was also given a chart guide.
@@acd3169 You are talking about offset extensions, yes that is the case. Yet for a axial direction only extension you do not have to modify anything. I am a ME and if you need further proof here you go: rtstools.com/does-an-extension-affect-a-torque-wrench/
I love your front and rear bumper configuration...can I do that with my JK 2016?
Yes you can. In fact, that's what I did on my JK way back in the day and why I did it on my JL :)
Always very informative and well put together. Love that you go through all this so when it becomes time to build my JL I’ll have all the info I will need. 👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you. We're always happy to know that our videos are helpful to people like you :)
Really love your videos. The best in the business! Now I just need to convince my wife that everything your saying is needed.🤣
LOL - thank you. We're so glad to hear you enjoy our videos.
It's important that you should buy a spacer that is hub-centric. And many mfgr. spec anti-seize on the back of the spacer so there is less chance of the aluminum of the spacer and steel of the rotor reacting/corroding.
These Spidertrax wheel spacers are made specifically for a JL Wrangler and are hub-centric. I have never used anti-seize on the back of them and have never had a problem with corrosion. Granted, I do live in Nevada and corrosion is not really an issue here.
I use ant-seize on all the lugs, spacer and wheel.... I may be wrong and I check them every 3k miles when I do my rotations. I currently have this type of spacer on my crawler and JK wheeler. Never had an issue. I know there are skeptics, but that is my personal experience.
@@billybadass411thefirst9 Anti-seize I think is okay on the lugs. But for sure use loctite on the original lugs (like is mentioned in the video). What you should never do is follow internet advice and put motor oil on your lugs! Ask me how I know. They will loosen up in 100 miles or less.
Ken Hadden 10k miles on the wheeler/daily driver JK (6 state road trip, Moab, big bear, Miller Jeep trail, Rowher trail, and other) on the rock crawler, 3 rubicon trips, countless trips to the hammers (sledge, jack, claw, wrecking ball, turkey claw, bullfrog and more), Callico gatekeeper (multiple times)..... you get the idea. I personally have never had a problem with this type of spacer or using anti-seize. If I ever do, I’ll switch to lock tight.
I always use anti seize on my wheels also but we live in sw Michigan don't like having to beat my wheels off with a big hammer.@@billybadass411thefirst9
Definitely, appreciate these how to's with the JL you have been doing. My plans are to buy a used Wrangler and build it. (I cant find myself to buy a new one to do it with.) By the time I do it there might be some used JL's out there but I still think the JK will be what I get. Im still stuck on the 2014 Copperhead Pearl.
I really appreciate your videos! Thx!🙌
Awesome! Happy to hear you enjoy our videos.
Looks good! Looking forward to some rock crawling videos with the new setup.
Thanks! We've been wheeling and hope to get some videos up soon.
My preferred method of holding the front wheel still is to put a screw driver or punch in the middle of the fins of the rotor and spin it until it holds itself against the caliper bracket
Yeah, that'll do the trick but seems like a lot of unnecessary work to me.
Thank you! I’m buying this from you link
Thank you! Glad to know that our video was helpful to you.
It looks like one of your rear beadlock ring bolts is backing out (just a heads up). I wanted to get those KMC wheels but needed less backspacing. I'm glad to see they look great with wheel spacers. I was afraid it would be too much.
Good eye! As a matter of fact, that one was. We did just get them installed and checking all the bolts was something I did do shortly after installing these spacers.
Great job Eddie as usual! Learn something from you EVERY time brother. Keep up the good work man!
Thank you, so glad to hear it :)
Hey dude, nice info in the video. I would have point out the hub center to locate the wheel on dead center as this is a vary good feature.
The only problem I have is the red loctite. This requires heat for future repair. I would be using blue even though the red it is supplied in the kit. I had a stepson use red loctite on wheels once and spent three hours getting them off. The torque specs seem a little high as alloys at the Buick dealer was 85 ft. Lbs. I look at it from a dealer prospective but also a husband of 40 years. If my wife has a flat, I taught her what to do and why. But using the factory lug wrench and OEM supplied tools, she could not get lug nuts off.
I had bought a used 4 X 4 and new I had to replace the outer CV Boots. First was new tires.
I made a good deal for a tire I wanted. They put them on and 15 minutes after getting home, could not get half of the front lugs nuts off. The rest, right & left spun the bolt inside the hub. Not all hubs are created them same. From the factory, their design left little meat on the hub for the knurled section to hold onto than I would like, plus their torque book was wrong as I brought the factory service manual in.
Then torque sticks where different colors mean different torques, but by different manufacturers. How much air pressure, old air impact or new. SnapOn or Sears. The number of taps the hammer hit they anvil to twist the yellow torque stick until it stops. 10 of these will produce 10 different torque specs. I dare any tech to have his own wife break those lug nuts loose with their foot. No 6 foot cheater pipe on a breaker bar.
Sorry, bad memories come flooding back just thinking about it. Much less the two days it took them to get a used hub with studs and install my new tires. Thanks for they video and everyone hit like & subscribe! It’s worth having good info. I didn’t have TH-cam in 78 when I took 8 test, passed all and was certified and NIASE Master. The only one in a dealership with 12 guys. Blessings!
The wheel studs are 14mm and the torque spec for them is correct and same as if they were 9/16" studs. I've been running both for well over a decade and using 130 ft lbs and without ANY problems. As far as red loctite goes, it's what is provided because it's critical that the nuts stay in place once installed. These are nuts that you can only see if you remove the wheels. Again, I have been running wheel spacers on and off on most of my Jeeps and have always used red and without ANY problems. Both are what I would ONLY recommend for this application.
@@wayalife Thanks for the reply. My only concern was removal required for future service. Best of luck! Regards.
ASE Master Tech since 1978 - Retired
Some comments in other posts say to never use the red loctite on the threads and to use the blue instead. They said it's very difficult to remove the lug nuts when you have used red. I used the red because that's what Spidertrax supplied and hope it's not too difficult to loosen them when the time comes. Some said they had to use high heat to loosen them. As often as you change things, I'm sure we're going to find out in one of you future vids lol.
Well, I don't know who they are but it sounds to me like they need to ask for their balls back from their mom or significant other. I have run Spidertrax wheel spacers on numerous Jeeps in the past and have NEVER had any issues removing the lug nuts with red loctite. NONE.
@@wayalife Thanks for the reassurance. Nobody making spacers has a better reputation than Spicertrax which again, is why I used what they supplied on my old 78' CJ. Just added them a a little extra width.
@@wayalife lol get their balls back. Hahaha. No crap right. Not like trying to torque control arm bolts to 190 ft lbs with minimal space on the ground. Shit...red loctite and lugs are a breeze compared to that. Ask me how I know.
Ugh. Has 392 Rubicon rims with 315s on them stock...no rub. Installed the Clayton overland plus 2.5 on my JT and have some rub on the lower front control arms. They are super beefy arms so.
But after the cost of the lift and shocks...and the rims and tires ...only option for me right now is a spacer. Soooo just ordered these. I'd prefer rims with enough backspacing as I'm kinda worried about running spacers. Wish me luck!
you can't check for torque on the spacer lugs, you put locktite on the threads. If you re-torque and the nut moves, the locktite is useless at that point. unless your talking about the wheel nuts then ok, that makes sense.
I subscribed because of this video. Very straightforward!
Glad to hear it! Thank you :)
That looks amazing! And great camera work as always.
Thank you. We appreciate it :)
@@wayalife Yeah it truely is by the way, you must have some expericene behind that lens not everyone can do that.
@@kartboarder22g17 It's all Cindy. If you can believe it, she never took a class and never held a video camera before we started doing all this. She does appreciate your kind words :)
Just bought a 20 jeep wrangler sahara unlimited JL 4dr. N I'm already having issues.bought it with 23000miles.appointment is on sept9. I have water on my driver side front n rear floorboard. I have a jingling sound coming from front pass suspension area,n the jeep shakes badly when I go past 65mph.I bought jeep with 35" wheels n it has a slight lift with rough country shocks,n roughcou try dual stabilizers. I also ordered the synergy HD steering kit.the thing is,is that aftermarket wheels etc on the jeep is going to void warranty,,even though I bought the jeep that way from a non jeep dealer.they installed wheels etc.what should I do? Should I go back to them? Where can the leak be coming from?Love your videos n what you bring to the jeep community. Your the reason I got a jl.thanks and stay safe
Sorry, without seeing pics, it's hard to say for sure where the leak is coming from. Post them up on WAYALIFE.com and I and others would be more than happy to help out. If you're unhappy with your Jeep, I would take it back to the dealership that you bought it from before it's too late.
@@wayalife lol never bring it back.I love my jeep.if there's one thing I learned from you is to get in there and just do it. n I'm doing just that.I actually fixed 2 of the 3 issues.the water issue I figured if the water is soaking mY top mat because there's a floor carpet,a custom floor mat n then I have factory mat on top.if the top got wet then the leak is coming from dashboard or freedomtops.so I popped the hood n it turns out that the dealership ran the litebar thats over the windshield thru the grommet hole by the brake booster. They took out the grommet n left it that way with the wire running thru hole so I checked under dash n found dirty water trail from the grommet hole to my floor.Bingo.sealed it up n it rained yesterday n no water.yessss as for the wobble I figured its not a death wobble cause I can slow down n I'm ok so process of elimination.I checked my front rims and noticed that driverside rim had about 6 speed balance weights on it while the pass.side had only 2..I checked the rear tires n they also had 6 weights as well.now I know that there's different weight sizes.but that still sounds fishy.so I went to tire shop n had that rim speed balanced, n mind you dealer didn't supply me with the lug nut remover,smh. Thankfully tire shop had one. They did the speed bal.I took the jeep on the highway n ran it to about 82mph n no shake.Yesssss so I fixed 2 issues and all I had to do was use my head.now I have to go to dealer n raise hell for causing the water problem because my jeep might not be the only one that way,n to also complain of the no lug nut tool.the 3rd issue I'll have to really get in there(sounds like washers jingling) but suspension looks tight n nothing looks loose.so if I can't locate problem I'll take to dealer for them to look. But watching your videos and asking questions from other jeepers,I was able to take control and get I. There and learn about my Jeep. This jeep is now my "Wayalife".sold my trailblazer,selling my Honda n now I'm a jeep for life.love your videos keep up the great work
Looks great Eddie & Cindy. 😎👍🇺🇸 OlllllllO
Thanks :)
Nice video! Being on a budget yet still wanting to mod, this might be a good option to keep my factory wheels a bit longer and put 35s on my sport. The price of the spacers allows me to spend that extra money on other stuff.
Awesome, glad we could be of help :)
If you have a stock JL front axle don’t you need to keep it in the “on” position so the FAD connects? Works for you cause you have a PR44.
Great tutorial vid as alway. Question can you still get a wheel alignment with wheel spacers installed being that we are pushing the wheel out?? Ty
I can see ZERO reason why you wouldn't be able to. But then, unless you have all adjustable components, the most an alignment shop can do is take your money to do a whole lot of nothing.
@@wayalife lol 😂 thanks as alway for the prompt response. Much appreciated
Great video. My 2023 Willys 4xe. running 1.5 spacer with center line wheels 35x12.5x20. No lift. Am I safe for that? I don’t do crazy off-road.
I suppose it depends on what the wheels you're running look like on the back side. Typically, on a JL Wrangler, you would need 1.75" spacers to help clear the factory wheel studs. Failure to do this often times result in the wheels pressing against the studs instead of clearing them and this can cause the studs to fail. I would double check to make sure this is not an issue with your wheels.
Looking great!
Hopefully one day we can wheeling together.
That would be awesome :)
Another great video as they all are.
Thank you :)
Great info!!! Do you have a torque wrench and socket set recommendation, and possibly a purchase link that would support you? Thanks again!
I appreciate your willingness to help support us! Here are a couple of links and thank you amzn.to/3HwCTqJ and this amzn.to/3HsU78B
Hi. Im installing spacers in my Ford SUV, the questions is with torque specification I should be using: from factory or the SPACER specification?
You always need to tighten your lug nuts based on the stud size and thread pitch. So, for the factory studs on your axles, tighten the lug nuts to factory spec. On the wheel spacers, you would do the same unless they have bigger studs. For a Jeep JL Wrangler, the studs are 14mm and that's why the nuts are tightened to 130 ft lbs.
Great video , good info. 😎 Eddie how do you keep everything looking so clean !?? Divulge your secrets to keeping your Awesome jeeps looking so beautiful ( would you mind ?). Those dusty desert rides get , well gets white dust and mud everywhere, how do you get it all cleaned up ? Cleanest tire I’ve ever seen !! 😎😎😎😎
LOL - Keep your Jeep garaged and wash after every run and you'll keep it looking nice :)
Surprised you didn't change the wheels instead when you did the coil overs? You mentioned it at the time. I would speculate that bigger axles are coming in the future and was a cost and or availability issue since you would need to change again to 8 on 6.5?
Excellent work as usual. Thanks for sharing. OlllllllO
As you've gathered, I'm holding off until we get 1-tons under our Jeep and then we'll get new wheels with an 8-lug bolt pattern.
Thank you for all the good videos and info.
We're so glad to hear you find our videos helpful 😎
Are these spacers in ur amazon store? Just want to support u when ever i can. I think WAYALIFE is totally awesome! And I want you guys to be around for decades to come. Thanks again for another awesome video
We really do appreciate it! It's listed in the description of this video :)
Always great info!
Did you ever run spacers with the 13.50 Cooper STT Pros?
Yes. For the better part of 2 years too.
Dude, what brand spacers are those? Also good job on the tutorial
Spidertrax Wheel Spacers amzn.to/2ZXHxYd
Glad the video was helpful to you 👍
Thats shaping up to be an incredible build. Im jealous and happy for you and can't wait to see what it can do. Love your vids, just wish the music was better....literally the only thing that can be improved. Keep it up, guys,
LOL - to be fair, I probably wouldn't like the kind of music you prefer. We all have our own tastes and and hope you can bear through what we prefer to use.
Great info, great video! No bullshit just straight to the point. Thank you!!
Glad to hear you enjoyed the video :)
Wow! Jeep's torque specs for lug nuts seems really high.
Unlike the JK or TJ before, the JL comes with 14mm studs.
Awsome. You always help me out 👏👏 thanks. Bty I would love to get one .. but is it really safe?!! Please help me 😂
Not sure what would give you the idea that they aren't or that you would think I'd run something that isn't anyway and on multiple Jeeps over the last 25 years.
Looks much better
Glad you like what you see.
Hi love the videos! I Just bought a 2020 JL wrangler Sport with a 2.5 in lift and 35 in grapplers and thought wheel spacers would improve the stance and look great! I called the so called truck specialist at the dealership who told me it would void my warranty...He talked to me like I was 12 years old and said "don't they stick out far enough already why would you do something like that"? I don't know if I believe him. BTW I crawl around town from the store to the pharmacy avoiding puddles so not like its going to be used even a little rough. Just want the look. Would you put them on and if so what size? Thank you !
Most tire shops and even dealerships won't service a Jeep with wheel spacers or at least, if working on wheels and tires is required. However, a dealership can't just void your warranty just because you have them. They'd need to prove that whatever it is you're wanting to have fixed or replaced was caused by them. In other words, if your radio blew out, they couldn't just say that they won't cover it because you have wheel spacers.
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it
So first of all looks bad ass but I got to ask and I know people may give me crap for this but if you know you can premature wear ur ball joints why do spacers and then have to spend money on ball joints cause of the spacers
Sorry, I'm not 100% sure I'm understanding what you wrote but if I got it right, you would install spacers like these IF you're running bigger tires and or have a new suspension system that causes rubbing at a full flex and or turn. Pushing your wheels further out will help to clear components.
On wheel spacer...do u need to retorque after a few miles.....and will re torque the wheel spacer nuts break the bond of the red lock tight......for I am using teraflex 1.75 spacer with lots of red lock tight dripping off the studs to make sure it does its job.... to re torque means u may end up moving the not which can break the bond...what's ur take on this....and think u for ur time and videos..
You can check the torque after about 100 miles. Just set your wrench to a lower value such as 120 as opposed to 130. After that, no check should be needed.
Speaking of spacers, talk to us about putting a 35x12.5x17 tire on the stock JLUR wheels, plz...
(believe the stock wheels are 7.5" wide). Thanks!!
Some tire shops won't install them but you shouldn't have any problems with it. Back in the day, we used to call that a poor mans beadlock as it holds on to the bead tighter.
@@wayalife thanks so much! I was worried about airing down, etc... Just tryin'to manage a budget!!
No problem :)
@@wayalife sorry to bother... This got my thinkin' juices flowin'... If I keep the stock JL tire carrier, use a spacer there, too, for the additional width? Can't thank you enough again!
@@bjornholmquist5019 You can do that but you NEED to make sure that the sidewall of your spare presses FIRMLY against the rubber isolator on the tailgate. If you don't, the spare will jiggle and eventually cause things to break.
I just recently bought ,a Jeep Wrangler unlimited Willy. the spacers gives it that bad ass look ? Does it add any of the performance
Actually, it will cause things like your ball joints and unit bearings to wear out prematurely. Not that big of a deal but there are no performance gains other than widening up your stance and maybe making your center of gravity a little lower.
Love the videos, Eddie! After the initial 100 mile check, how often would you recommend checking them? I’ve heard every tire rotation. Thank you!
After the first check, there should be no reason to check them again outside of a visual check. Use a paint pen to mark your bolts and that'll show you if anything has moved. None should even after the first 100 miles if you installed them correctly.
@@wayalife Awesome, thank you!
Hello....another great video...good info...I have a question....what the max size space one should use....I running stock tire and wheel (31inch)..2020 JL..and I like the look of a wider stance...is 1.75 to much...??
1.75" is the minimum you can go. Any thinner and the factory wheel studs will protrude beyond the spacer and interfere with your wheel mating flush and installing properly.
Did you put wheel spacers on Moby? Your JK has a super wide stance, but maybe that’s the backspace on the wheels you chose...
At one point and time in his life, yes. But now, he's just running full width axles.
I bought 1” wheel spacers for my 2020 Jeep gladiator, since I only went with a 1” spacer does this mean I have to cut my lug bolts so they are flush
If you're keeping your factory wheels or running aftermarket ones with a similar design, the factory studs on your axle WILL prevent your wheels from sitting flush with it and it WILL cause a dangerous failure. This is something I have personally seen.
I'm in the same boat you were in. My wheels are 17x9.5 with 4.5" backspacing though, and I don't wanna spend another $2500 on wheels to fix this. With the spidertrax spacers I'd be at 2.75" of backspace on a d44. Is the 1/4" difference between yours, and mine a big deal? Or should I install shorter studs, and go with a 1.5" spacer? Thank you! Great videos!
Aren’t you worried that now since the tires stick out past the fender, that the rocks/debris the tires might throw will scratch/dent the doors.
Umm, not really. Our tires stick out even more on our JK and it's never really been a problem.
It's also an offroad rig, the whole thing is going to get scratched and dented eventually. Lol
Awesome outstanding job performance good
Have a great time thanks
I want this exact look with my jk.
My wheel is 17x9 backspacing 4.528 Inch, 115.1mm.
Only stick out like half an inch with these.
To get the look you have with my rims would i need a 2 inch wheel spacer or less?
Factory wheels are 6.25". A good backspacing to give you an untucked look would be 3.5". 2" spacers would put you at 2.5" of back spacing and me personally, that might be a bit too little. I might recommending 1.5" spacers for your needs.
Quick question. I was told you cannot do highway speeds all the time with spacers. It this a myth? It is a silly question I know. I run spacers and no trouble. This video just reminded me what a 4X4 store told me.
LOL - Sounds like you need to find yourself a new 4x4 store.
Right :). I did.
Hey Guys, Love the channel,
Before you had fitted the spacer, where was the wheel rubbing
Does the Coilover suspension take up more wheel backspace area
Was looking running a setup like yourself, but looking at a "near" flush look for Australian conditions
We were rubbing the rear sway bar end links. With standard suspension setup, you should be able to get away with more back spacing.
Brother I love your channel , I’m ordering some today. Thanks for all the information you provide
Happy to hear you enjoy our videos and that you find them to be helpful.
@@wayalife how safe are these spacers? You always hear horror stories of spacers I placed the order last night and I am super excited, thanks
The only horror stories I hear are from people who tell me about what stories they've read on the internet. Me, I've been running high quality wheel spacers like the kind that Spidertrax makes for almost 30 years and on just about every Jeep I've owned. And I can say, not a single one has ever failed or been a problem for me. Granted, I know I've installed mine properly and check them on a regular basis and can't speak for anyone else as to what their running or how they installed theirs.
@@wayalife this definitely makes me feel better, I should have mine in a few days from Amazon and I can’t wait to install them, thanks for the reply and for sharing your experiences and knowledge with the rest of us.
great video, pretty much was the final selling point for me getting some spidertrax. about how long can one expect before starting to see premature bearing wear or anything else on a completely stock JL aside from these spacers?
It really depends on how you drive your Jeep. For normal driving, they should still last a long time. Even with rock crawling, they'll do fine. Where they really put a strain on ball joints and unit bearings is driving hard and fast across the desert.
Hey Eddie great video I got to JT and I put a set of synergy one and three quarter inch on mine did everything like you did just one question do you think I should put anti-seize between the spacers and the Hub I am in Canada and I plan on leaving them on all year round so we get a lot of weather and use salt on our road
Being that you have salted roads to deal with, yeah, I would.
Can you still accurately check the torque after 100 miles if there's already thread locker applied?
If the nuts turn when checking, they have either loosened up or you have set your torque wrench setting too high.
this video made me sub to your channel
Awesome! Glad to hear our video was helpful to you👍
I’ve seen another video where they say, you should wire brush all the rust off the face of the hub before installing the wheel spacer, just the part where the wheel spacer is going to sit flush. Do you recommend that or is it ok to leave it rusty? I know aluminum won’t rust, but maybe a more flush mount?
LOL - I think I show exactly what I would do. Clearly, you should do what you think is best for your Jeep :)
Naughty boy, no jack stand!
LOL - yeah yeah, I know.
Should have cleaned the rust off the rotor and applied anti-seize. Will defn be a pita to get them off later if you ever have to do brake or axle work on the Jeep.
I admit that at 25+ years of doing this Jeep thing, I'm kind of new but I can't say that I've ever had a problem by not using antiseize. Perhaps I'll learn someday.
Wayalife wasn’t saying you were new at it, but maybe it’s just because you don’t live in the rust belt you haven’t had an issue yet. Have seen a lot of them stuck on and not able to get them off because of the rust. Even wheels that people couldn’t get off their hubs because of rust.
Thanks for the video. I think jeeps do look better with wheel spacers. My question is...I own a gladiator with 1.5 level kit on it now. I am upgrading to 37’ tires on 17’ rims. I have seen gladiators that can run this size of tire without a lift. I plan on getting one later but is a wheel spacer good idea for the gladiator or not?? Pros and cons?
First off, IF you decide to run a spacer, you really need to make sure to get a high quality one like this Spidertrax. Pros is that you can run a wider tire and without the kind of rubbing issues you might have without them. Some uneducated people will suggest that they're dangerous but again, so long as you get a high quality one like these, you will be fine. The biggest con to them is that they will push your wheels/tires out far enough that your ball joints and unit bearings will wear out prematurely. Not a huge deal but it is worth noting.