Rear Brakes Town And Country 2012 Chrysler - How To Change Brake Pads
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ต.ค. 2024
- Step by step tutorial instructions and process on how to replace the rear brake pads on a Chrysler Town & Country Minvan and install new brake pads. If you are hearing a grinding noise when braking, its time to change your brakes. In this video Jeff also shows you what parts and tools he uses to change the rear brake pads and remove the rotors in this replacement job. This video also shows you how to compress the threaded piston for the rear calipers. Jeff gives a side by side comparison of used brake pads with new brake pads. By doing this car maintenance yourself you can save money from what you would pay by taking your car to a mechanic.
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of Tinker Forward, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. Tinker Forward assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. Tinker Forward recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Tinker Forward, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Tinker Forward. Jeff is not a licensed mechanic, this is a DIY project at home. This video may not demonstrate proper safety or technique. It is up to you to ensure the safety of yourself and your vehicle.
Items referenced in the video:
1.5 Ton Compact Aluminum Racing Jack with Rapid Pump
amzn.to/2yQfwHW (Affiliate Link)
Neiko 20733A Disc Brake Caliper Wind Back Tool Kit | 12-Piece Set
amzn.to/2yTINkK (Affiliate Link)
Permatex 80078 Anti-Seize Lubricant with Brush Top Bottle, 8 oz.
amzn.to/2iB0nUK (Affiliate Link)
Permatex 24125 Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant, 8 oz.
amzn.to/2y5skLl (Affiliate Link)
Permatex 24110 Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube, 8 oz.
amzn.to/35vz4zl (Affiliate Link)
3M 08880 High Power Brake Cleaner - 14 oz.
amzn.to/33nDSVg (Affiliate Link)
Permatex 24010 Medium Strength Threadlocker Blue Gel, 10 g Gel Twist Applicator
amzn.to/2IIa7Xm (Affiliate Link)
Seafoam Extreme Marine & Rv Deep Creep Lubricant & Cleaner, 12 oz.
amzn.to/31ddQ5W (Affiliate Link)
Wire Brush,Heavy Duty Carbon Steel Wire Scratch Brush for Cleaning Rust
amzn.to/2OKPk9k (Affiliate Link)
ACDelco 14D1596CH Advantage Ceramic Rear Disc Brake Pad Set (comparable to what was used in the video - please verify online that these parts will work with your model vehicle)
amzn.to/2gEGrfm (Affiliate Link)
ACDelco 18A2558A Advantage Non-Coated Rear Disc Brake Rotor (rotors comparable to what was used in the video - however these are unpainted - please verify online that these parts will work with your model vehicle)
amzn.to/2gCxPG2 (Affiliate Link)
Be sure to check out Jeff’s other DIY Tinker Forward videos:
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Jeff is not a licensed mechanic, this is a DIY project at home. This video may not demonstrate proper safety or technique. It is up to you to ensure the safety of yourself and your vehicle.
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Thanks for watching! What type of car maintenance do you typically do yourself?
We
Nice video. Thank you. One other good practice is to loosen and/or remove the brake fluid reservoir cap before compressing the piston, to make it easier to compress, and avoid creating bubbles in the fluid in the brake lines and reservoir. Then just replace it when you're done.
Great tip! Thanks for sharing!
I open the bleeder. It's even easier to push the piston back in, and then you get rid of that nasty brake fluid that's been heat cycled a million times. Then gravity bleed the brakes after.
Not only is it easier but it could damage something
I just replaced both my wifes minivan rear brakes thanks to you, thank you for sharing.
Check your nuts then. Hope you didn't lube them
Im so glad Luke Wilson is back behind the camera again..... Good job!
I'm glad someone else notice the uncanny resemblance.
That is Secretary of interior, "Not Sure" put some Respek on his name.
Thanks man. Been a long time since I've done a break job. Appreciate the refresher.
Glad to help
u yttt,
uf six. ,
These design engineers should have to work on this garbage for five years before designing anything.
If you find yourself getting frustrated while refreshing your brakes, then take a short break. The last time I changed brake pads my sister in law called and said she heard a grinding sound, I had to do two brake jobs, one on our van, and one on her car, too.
@@bobpaulino4714 I just did the sister-in-law‘s, my two vehicles completely shelled out brakes within the next couple weeks!
@@brandonminear9400 I don't care to do brakes, brake lines, shocks, or exhaust anymore.
Just finished putting the top third of an Audi Cabriolet 3.0 TFSI together. He found out what the dealer wanted to do the job, offered me $2k to do it. Cousin took it for a spin and said it runs better now than when he bought it -- Then gave me a $500 tip.
I really like those jobs.
Very professional very good teacher thanks
Thank you! I just changed my own turn signal for the first time! 😊
Super Helpful. Thanks
well done ...good instructional video....
Thanks! Thanks for watching!
You did not mention the torque specs for the caliper bracket, or caliper. The caliper bolts are 13mm and should be torqued to 26 ft. lbs, and the caliper bracket bolts are 18mm, and should be torqued to 74 ft lbs. Also should pull, clean, and re-lube caliper pins. Also lug nuts are 19mm, and need to be torqued to 100 ft lbs. Sorry to mention, but doing mine right now. Check my video for problem/solution that I ran into about caliper pins and bracket.
Came here to say this
He just increased life insurance policy and that's why he hasn't replied
Before using a lever pipe be sure to use a spray liquid wrench or WD-40 to loosen. Work it back and forth, tapping till it breaks loose and the bolt doesn't snap off or nut strip. Don't be impatient it could take an hour of working it back and forth but never use twice as much force as torqued or you risk breaking, then you have to tap, drill, ease out or grind to remove the damaged piece and replace with same. Don't substitute with a smaller size.
Good job young man .. I like it! and - I'm hard to please 🙄
Thanks! I'm glad I could help! Be sure to check out other helpful auto tips I give on changing filters, keyfob batteries and more for my Dodge and Chrysler in my DIY auto maintenance video playlist here: th-cam.com/play/PL-ejpb-NKxVAfkLkQ2_MvYqAF7vDl9FIH.html
That wasn't the brake line..... that is the parking brake cable sheath.
Do we have to play that music all the time?
Yes🎉
Let me just say, I just did a brake job on my sienna, it literally fell apart compared to the Town & Country. Probably took two or three times as long with all the Rust clean up. The rotors had pusher threads on them, but they were not needed, because they came off by hand.
1 important thing nobody seems to mention is the position of the slide clips. Because there is a way to install those right an wrong.
Great Video thanks
Great video, should I take the break cap off when pumping the break?
You may want to take the brake cap off when you are compressing the piston as this will raise the brake fluid when you want to make sure it doesn't overflow in the reservoir when compressing it but you don't necessarily need it off when you are pumping the brakes at the end.
Yes
That's your Van Jeff
I've done my brakes a few times over the decades but never needed more than a c-clamp to compress the caliper before.
Won't work on this crap.
Don't lube your wheel studs. You might lose your wheel going down the road. You better keep torquing them for safety. NEVER lube the studs. They're galvanized and won't rust!
I respectfully disagree. I use anti seize on the lugs. They don’t come loose. And they’ll come back off when you want them to.
Or just put one drop of oil on your finger per stud that won't hurt and help with keeping it from snapping off if humidity or moisture seep in. Never tighten past recommended torque and re-torque after 25-100 miles to ensure proper seating.
Enough times off and on will wear that zinc off the steel studs. They WILL rust.
Pro tip, likely under the clips the pads ride in is rusty and crusty. Clean it really good, scrape it out with a pick or screw driver and clean it with emery cloth. Then put the clips in and install the pads. Also skip the anti sieze, does nothing but make a mess.
Hi have you ever experience the rear brakes not completely engaging so my rotors don't look so shinny??
I replaced all the pads and when u go to brake it drags unless u hit really hard,what could be the issue.2013 Dodge Grand Caravan.
I’m going to guess sticking slide pins or emergency brake lever/cable rusty and stuck. Had a remanufactured caliper seize the lever and burn my pads once
Tip:If you compress the piston and it does't move ,remove the compresser and hit piston with a hamer and screw driver a couple of times and try the compresser again.
Awesome, thanks so much for the tip!
I was using a c clamp and it wouldnt compress. So tap the piston a few times with hammer?
@@richard3621 yes hit and twist
@@claudiomenendez4478 Ive seen your comments you seem to know well. To twist a bit do you hit at angle like clockwise on outside of piston? Or twist with pliers gently? Thanks for the info!
Whips thru the most important part
Awesome!!!
Glad this was helpful! Thanks for watching!
i used to take the t wrench that removed the tire bolts and put the flat end in between the piston and brake and turn for leverage. no special tools necessary.
@ 14 minutes he shows how to compress the piston
Dude…Those rotors are ROACHED….
More commercials than cable TV.
Anti seize is a horrible product to use for brake components. Heat makes it harden and could cause a stuck brake issue. Silicone grease is the only way to go for both pins and slides