PARTS AND TOOLS I USE IN THIS VIDEO: Wire Wheel - amzn.to/2VU020Q Fine Line Tape - amzn.to/38xQADc Tack Cloth - amzn.to/2IqKlpZ Squeegee for Automotive - amzn.to/2xlBgN9 Paint Stripper - amzn.to/2PVBvF2 Grease & Wax Remover - amzn.to/3cDmlOp Rust Converter / Neutralizer - amzn.to/2PWoonb Sand Paper Wet & Dry - amzn.to/2Ivpe5W Graphic Designer: www.limelight.online/ ALL OTHER PARTS AND TOOLS I USE: www.amazon.com/shop/caferacergarage
@@jamesabbott1309 That would also mean you are unable to have an MRI, as the risk of any metal being left behind could result in destruction of the eyeball (and any other tissue it passes through on it's way to the electromagnet in the MRI machine). You have my respect for the understated way you tell it, by the way. I am familiar with pain (in the eyes and elsewhere), but damage to the eyes goes beyond anything else I have experienced.
I hit on this video cause the thumbnail stated “Pro Finish”! Was this the first paint job you did? Most pro shops will never take off paint that is still good. It will be sanded and sealed. Never apply filler over paint, it is impossible to feather the edge, the plastic might not stick. If you get trash in the painted surface sand it out with 800 wet paper then compound and polish, that is the accepted practice. No “pro” would ever use spray cans, the paint is not viscous enough (thick). I know we don’t all have spray setups, just picking the bone with the Pro statement. You did a super amount of extra work but you must enjoy it. I realize this is the way that most guys have to paint, not giving you shit, just giving some facts.....
I really appreciate this video as I'm contemplating painting my tank and fenders myself. Thank you for taking the time to explain your process, problem areas and materials used. It's incredibly helpful. I know it takes a lot of time to film and edit these types of videos, so kudos on such a high quality. 👍✌
anyone else get the goosebumps when he pet the tank after the 600 grit. All i can think about is fisheyes because of the oils on your skin can sometimes mess your paint up. Then you get to do it again! Looks awesome and great how too video!
Perhaps, however, when one removes the Honda Logo Badge emblem, and have to epoxy or fill it, no longer do you have clean metal to Clear coat with. Green looks nice, but, just not my color. I'm a Metallic Blue fan......😁 Uh, Candy Blue over gold metal or silver metal. Though I have done a maroon clear coat that came out sweeeeeeeet.
I've seen similar finishes. I knew a guy that did a whole pickup truck bare, but he then used baking soda and purposely let the surface metal oxidize, Then he clear coated the entire thing and it Really did look cool.
Another guy said leather tank strap, good idea, or something like you see on a Norton. I like the look you are going for. Whatever direction you choose will suit 💯. I was also loving the look of the primer grey, but any of the earthy drab colours will be great tbh.
Great video man, it look tits! I’ve got one tip for you which I leaned the hard way. When you’re adding the last clear coat layer you should take the plug out of the hole so the coat can get down a bit, it’s a risk when you leave a “sharp” edge on the coat that the fuel can get in under the coat and rinkle the paint from under. Don’t know if got what i meant but anyway great content👌🏻🤘🏻
1200 grit wet&dry and use a bar of soap to rub on the paper between each coat. But I really cannot say how much I like your bike, it fraggling awesome 😎
The bare metal tank looked sweet! You might have sanded through the clear on the tank seam, that could give you the look on the top of the tank that you don’t like. We use fine scotch rite scuff pads are work, I paint business jets, before stripes or when re clearing. I would put a clear or black tape, we call it erosion tape, or abrasion tape, it will also help to keep it from getting scuffle by belt buckles, or pants. I have been following this build from the start and I love the bike. I have a 1980 CX500c that I am working on right now.
The strap would work and hide the area but does it fit the theme of the bike? I would consider another graphic, maybe something fierce and dark in color, but subtle. I have also had the same difficulties, paints don't always get along. Great looking design and the design repair on the roll of the tank worked out perfectly. Your video has a lot of good tips, Ride On and Thank you
Beautiful craftsmanship. Love your perfectionism and creativity. Thank you I had a wonderful 1960”s BSA triads 350 thumper and it has a beautiful brush’s Metal tank no paint . Never have seen spray putty .
Thanks for showing up that not everything goes perfect the first time and how you addressed the problems. I've used 2K clear coat and I think they sold you the wrong product, especially when the 1st coat of matte gave you the results. I thought the brushed metal looked really good. Nice looking bike.
They say geniuses choose green. That olive colour is amazing, I sank into it like a warm pond, its got depth. The first thing people see on a bike is the tank so good work on paying that extra attention. Yes those little steel bristles on the grinder hurt you lol. I'd cut that loop off the CX frame and do a single spring. That body putty will last a couple years on a weekend bike but on a daily bike you will have cracks in no time. Fill the recess with lead, if the body putty is thick you screwed. Thank you for the video, you a better body worker than me. If you want a bit more matt finish try dust spray from a distance.
Bare metal all the way brother! That brushed metal look is killer! The only hard thing is trying to cover the tank badge weld points to get that brush look through out the whole tank.
And another of your great videos! Thanks for taking the time to produce such useful and informative content. I have found your videos very useful whilst I am restoring a 55 year old Honda! Cheers Mate!
Nice job! The tank on my R1100gs started to leak after i cleaned it out. I had to redo it, and used a 3 part system to put a new liner on the inside of the tank. I would really recommend anyone using an older tank to do this. first you degrease it, then acid treat it, and new liner goes in. easy enough job, and doesn't cost to much. i will definatly do that on my 2 cafe racer builds aswell.
POR15 degreaser, etch and seal is the best tank seal kit out there IMHO. I used it on a knackered CB200 tank which had a porous weld where the old petcock bung hole was closed. The welder described the metal on the tank as being like Swiss cheese, but the POR15 seal kit still did it's job!
dude, cool. now I feel more confidence to do paint job by myself. only one thing. you did speed up the part when you were actually applying the paint/otherstuff on the fuel tank but what I wanted is to see the painting technique
Although body filler would go better over steel, you need to prep the surface with 80 grit first to get good adhesion. Putting putty over the top of a smooth surface with nothing to bite into will cause it to bubble out later down the road. You also lay your etch primer on way too thick. You should use etch primer as a light top-coat and then coat over that with your surface primer. Etch primer is corrosive and as such will eat into the metal. Putting on thick coats will cause it to eat away more over time and can cause shrink back in your final paint job down the road. Your stuff turns out O.K. at a home level of craftsmanship and looks good for a short time. But with time and improper care, your job is doomed to fail sooner or later down the road.
Filler over bear metal never over primer. Unless you key the primer with a course sandpaper first. The filler needs a key to adhere otherwise you end up with the peeling like you did. But what a sweet looking ride. One thing I would have gone for would be a dark brown leather for the seat but. Wow man. Beautiful.
That was a really great job mate! Personally, I like the bare brushed metal look on the tank. If this was mine I'd just clear coat the tank and call it done.
I’ve painted my 2 bikes twice each (tanks and some fenders), all done in the garage and every time a lot to learn. I also used the 2k aerosol - it’s great stuff. Sometimes I use 2k colour with no clear. The paint place I buy from don’t sell a 2k Matte clear aerosol because they say it doesn’t come out as “matte” as it should. For the tank imperfection down the middle id say leave it for now, get the bike together & start using it. Maybe a bit of use, jacket rub, scrambling might rough up the tank a little and it’ll just add to the look.
Dale Paddon thanks for your comment mate yes that kind of makes sense just use the bike for a little while and see how much it bothers me to fix later, As for your 2K paint it definitely is a different breed of paint that’s for sure
I don't know much about painting(hence my watching of this vid), but you're the first person I've ever seen that hoses down with water between coats. Pretty sure that primer is fairly porous, and hygroscopic. Probably take a long time to dry. I wonder if trapped moisture was the cause of your discoloration? Still, it looks awesome, and I agree with others about a leather strap up the middle of the tank. Very vintage cafe.
Bare metal looked awesome, but I alsow loved the black tank! I think the green looks better when the fenders are also green. Anyway, great project, keep up the good work!
I like the black and white tank scheme, I am spraying my cb125 tank with a silver grey acrylic paint and have a polyurethane clear aerosol , hope it works out!
Looks awesome Dan! Have been trying to decide if to have a go at painting the tank myself on my CB 550 then saw your video this morning! I’ve painted the frame, forks and brake callipers with great results but didn’t have a clue where to start on the tank. I’m sure the attention to detail and taking your time to get it right ensures the end result, which looks killer mate! And yes like a few people have already said a brown leather tank strap would look cool👍🏻🏍
The milky discoloration is from humidity. I live in the S.E. United States and unless you have access to a booth it can't be avoided. Try to wait for a day where the barometer level is low and always spray in direct sunlight to cook off the humidity.
Ya you want to do all yr body work first n always use the filler on the metal un premiered or painted to stick in the sanding grooves n stuff, it will fall out evidentially in time, it has nothing to really stick n grab too once you activate it n it goes to getting warm. But look's good, Idk what that L shape was at first but then realized. Looks awesome thou. Keep it up. God Bless!!
came out really nice, I like the green! Unfortunately you might notice some peeling of the clear coat around the filler neck because you didnt clear down into the filler neck.
Try a Leather Tank Strap. It Clips from the top and around the Fuel Cap and then down to the Bottom, Should look cool and you should be able to get the same colour.
You talked about not having a painting booth. I have painted tons of bikes outside on nice days with with no issues just use a bug net but hey that's here in FL. All my bikes have come out amazing. You don't even need a huge $500 gun. Start out small practicing with a harbor freight HLVP1.3 gun. With HLVP and shooting a motorcycle you don't need a big compressor.
You did a great job for your frist try ! I would of not been able to do that well ! Its a good looking tank and bike! I think all around you did a realy good job.
Maybe a metal strap a bit wider than the filler cap that runs the length of the tank. Then use a simple die set to make the round hole for the filler cap and then some others evenly spaced to the seat. Just spit balling. Looks great from the side... Making think about starting the convert on my 84’ CB750.
Use p1000 wet sandpaper lightly on the spots and do a new mat finish very lightly. It probably will fix it. It will be a bit off a risk but that is painting. I love your bikes. I'm thinking about filming building bikes too. Now I do it without filming.
Looking really good Dan , if it doesn't go you could just get a cafe garage sticker and strategically place it over it . For a clear and gloss look that was amazing but like you im thinking as ive watched the whole build it would only suit being matt .. Great vid as usual . Now lets see some videos of you n the bike on the road
Howdy, I hope you figured out what to do with that little blemish along the center of your tank. The paint came out really nice! If you haven't done anything with that blemish, may I suggest doing a "racing stripe" type of paint, in black of course, to accent the sides.
I'm not suggesting a change or anything but I'm curious as to why the putty was not used before the primer. If you really have an answer and not just two cents please leave a reply. Turned out great. Enjoyed the video.
Nice job documenting and sharing your thoughts and vision as you go through the job. Excellent video skills to show how beautiful motorcycles are and the process of working the job with moments and milestones to pause for.
My dad is an auto body pro for over 40 years. He says you always use bondo on bare metal. It should have been the first part of this repair. After the rust mitigation of course.
I have not done anything as complex as your tank. but if you use the exact same brand and type of paint. Use clear for your first 2 "tack" coats over the decals and the edges of the decals before you change to color it will look 100x better.
JB Weld is the sonic screwdriver.Would be good to have applied that in the recess of your emblem area.If you later had a pinhole leak it would stop it. And now days that is very likely with all of the ethanol in gas.
I will be painting my Honda shadow and sidecar to replicate the Bat Cycle from the 60's TV show. I have watched DOZENS of how to videos and WOW!! Yours has been THE MOST informative. How many coats of the black base and then how many coats of the green did you use? Thanks again, I think I might actually be able to pull this off!
27:08, that graying/fog is due to humidity. You may be able to fix it with a heat gun. If there's a lot of moisture in there, you'll have to sand and hit it again. Make sure its a dry day if your doing it outside.
I had the same problem when wet sanding the clear coat and when down into the base. I’m now repainting the lot as it annoyed me to much. The pains of learning how to paint😂. Maybe a brown leather tank strap
Nice video. Since you mentioned being a perfectionist, did you think about touching the raw steel with a bare hand? Yikes. I would have had it glass beaded, then clean with Acetone and an etching primer. That way there are no residual chemicals from stripping. Gloves would keep the skin oils off. After 2-coats of either etching primer or Epoxy primer, a glide coat to keep orange peel away is a big help. Oddly, I do like the brushed stell look, maybe with a stain clear coat.
@@chelseabrown462 yes, you must build the coats up in light layers until you have complete coverage, then once that has dried you can go a bit heavier, but do NOT stop when spraying, always keep moving! A warm room and warm paint helps the finish as well!
You need to rub over your primer with say 180 before you put any filler on or the filler will keep breaking back and not stick , hope that help buddy 👍🏻👍🏻
Great work man! Yet more evidence that with a little patience and know-how, cans of spray paint can make quality finishes. I didn't know that about the flash time for the matte spray max 2k. Good to know because i have a client job coming up where I'm going to use it.
Atlas Robotics thank you so much mate it’s definitely one of those risks that you have to take if you have an idea in your head and you just want that finished result. I’m very happy with the end result apart from the small blemishes which I can finish at a later stage if I want to
The clear didn't came out matte because you didn't leave enough time for the first coat to dry. Usually double time. 30 min to 45 min to completely dry. The same applies to the other coats.
Etch primer should go on very lightly and you should be able to see the steel underneath if it is use like a primer and and you can't see the steel it won't stick properly. It goes on thin and it will enable the acid to bite into the steel.
Great video. I liked it as bare metal, it looked really cool. But now its all painted it looks even better. Great job. Really good explanations through out.
BB's Customs Thanks mate unfortunately to keep the bear metal tank would’ve been a mission with the badge dish outs on the side of the tank, I just kind of wanted to do something different compared to a lot of the other builds out there :)
Probably when you where sanding the gloss coat you sand too much on that spot and hit the paint underneath, that could cause some stains like those ones. the tank looks awesome, the matt finish just suit rhe paint and the bike. I think some kind of leather strap on the center bit not all the way to the top would look cool , maibe not flat but whith some stitches and then some kind of grill over it like you where talking about. cheers from Portugal, I really like your videos and your projects, best wishes.
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PARTS AND TOOLS I USE IN THIS VIDEO:
Wire Wheel - amzn.to/2VU020Q
Fine Line Tape - amzn.to/38xQADc
Tack Cloth - amzn.to/2IqKlpZ
Squeegee for Automotive - amzn.to/2xlBgN9
Paint Stripper - amzn.to/2PVBvF2
Grease & Wax Remover - amzn.to/3cDmlOp
Rust Converter / Neutralizer - amzn.to/2PWoonb
Sand Paper Wet & Dry - amzn.to/2Ivpe5W
Graphic Designer: www.limelight.online/
ALL OTHER PARTS AND TOOLS I USE:
www.amazon.com/shop/caferacergarage
I can tell you from personal experience, a bristle from the wire wheel hurts like hell when it hits you in the eye.
@@jamesabbott1309 That would also mean you are unable to have an MRI, as the risk of any metal being left behind could result in destruction of the eyeball (and any other tissue it passes through on it's way to the electromagnet in the MRI machine). You have my respect for the understated way you tell it, by the way. I am familiar with pain (in the eyes and elsewhere), but damage to the eyes goes beyond anything else I have experienced.
I hit on this video cause the thumbnail stated “Pro Finish”! Was this the first paint job you did? Most pro shops will never take off paint that is still good. It will be sanded and sealed. Never apply filler over paint, it is impossible to feather the edge, the plastic might not stick. If you get trash in the painted surface sand it out with 800 wet paper then compound and polish, that is the accepted practice. No “pro” would ever use spray cans, the paint is not viscous enough (thick). I know we don’t all have spray setups, just picking the bone with the Pro statement. You did a super amount of extra work but you must enjoy it. I realize this is the way that most guys have to paint, not giving you shit, just giving some facts.....
Hey, what was the paint you used? I'd love to use the same green paint.
What bike or bike frame is that
Metal tank , matching accents with black looks very slick IMO. Good vids, keep em coming
I would clear coat the bare metal and call it done it looks sweet the way it is!
too troo
I know right 🤣
Totally agree .I did with my cb550 supersport 1977 .looked great
It has to coat to avoid being rusty
@@jianhuang0124 that's what the clear coat is for... Read the comment again... 🤣
I really appreciate this video as I'm contemplating painting my tank and fenders myself. Thank you for taking the time to explain your process, problem areas and materials used. It's incredibly helpful. I know it takes a lot of time to film and edit these types of videos, so kudos on such a high quality. 👍✌
anyone else get the goosebumps when he pet the tank after the 600 grit. All i can think about is fisheyes because of the oils on your skin can sometimes mess your paint up. Then you get to do it again! Looks awesome and great how too video!
Satin clear over a raw metal tank is my favorite look. goes well on any retro style bike
you have good taste :)
Perhaps, however, when one removes the Honda Logo Badge emblem, and have to epoxy or fill it, no longer do you have clean metal to Clear coat with. Green looks nice, but, just not my color. I'm a Metallic Blue fan......😁 Uh, Candy Blue over gold metal or silver metal. Though I have done a maroon clear coat that came out sweeeeeeeet.
Filler goes alway direct on steel. Otherwise it would have popped out some day 😂👌👌
Glad you took it off and put it again.
I was gonna say that silver looked better when the gloss clear was applied but once i saw that matt clear coat.. mhhhh perfection!!
Xrilla thank you so much mate. As they say a picture is worth 1000 words :)
Heat on the vinyl for smooth instal on curved surfaces.
the tank rack sounds like a good idea and will probably give it a more utilitarian/military vibe.
JM F I think I’ll have fun building it to
I've seen similar finishes. I knew a guy that did a whole pickup truck bare, but he then used baking soda and purposely let the surface metal oxidize, Then he clear coated the entire thing and it Really did look cool.
Awesome job as usual my friend! But I have to be honest with you, I kinda liked the glossy look better than the matt. But that's just me, looks great!
Matt by a mile.
Another guy said leather tank strap, good idea, or something like you see on a Norton. I like the look you are going for. Whatever direction you choose will suit 💯. I was also loving the look of the primer grey, but any of the earthy drab colours will be great tbh.
Great video man, it look tits! I’ve got one tip for you which I leaned the hard way. When you’re adding the last clear coat layer you should take the plug out of the hole so the coat can get down a bit, it’s a risk when you leave a “sharp” edge on the coat that the fuel can get in under the coat and rinkle the paint from under. Don’t know if got what i meant but anyway great content👌🏻🤘🏻
Oldschool Bikes that’s a fantastic tip I would never of thought of that 😁
Thank you mate
Good tip, I'm going to try that as well.
I love how it looks, cafe racer style is my favorite style of bike.
OH MY, the bare tank with the brown seat!! so nice! As always, love ya work mate!
1200 grit wet&dry and use a bar of soap to rub on the paper between each coat.
But I really cannot say how much I like your bike, it fraggling awesome 😎
The bare metal tank looked sweet! You might have sanded through the clear on the tank seam, that could give you the look on the top of the tank that you don’t like. We use fine scotch rite scuff pads are work, I paint business jets, before stripes or when re clearing. I would put a clear or black tape, we call it erosion tape, or abrasion tape, it will also help to keep it from getting scuffle by belt buckles, or pants. I have been following this build from the start and I love the bike. I have a 1980 CX500c that I am working on right now.
A leather strap that matches the seat running down the tank to hide the blemish could look cool.
a tank bra would be good
that's exactly what I was going to say
The strap would work and hide the area but does it fit the theme of the bike? I would consider another graphic, maybe something fierce and dark in color, but subtle. I have also had the same difficulties, paints don't always get along. Great looking design and the design repair on the roll of the tank worked out perfectly. Your video has a lot of good tips, Ride On and Thank you
I agree. A leather strap matching the seat would be awesome.
Beautiful craftsmanship. Love your perfectionism and creativity. Thank you I had a wonderful 1960”s BSA triads 350 thumper and it has a beautiful brush’s Metal tank no paint . Never have seen spray putty .
It reminds me of the iron 833 green version tank, the black and green combination looks amazing. And that matt finish, mmmm, delicious
Thanks for showing up that not everything goes perfect the first time and how you addressed the problems. I've used 2K clear coat and I think they sold you the wrong product, especially when the 1st coat of matte gave you the results. I thought the brushed metal looked really good. Nice looking bike.
They say geniuses choose green. That olive colour is amazing, I sank into it like a warm pond, its got depth. The first thing people see on a bike is the tank so good work on paying that extra attention. Yes those little steel bristles on the grinder hurt you lol. I'd cut that loop off the CX frame and do a single spring. That body putty will last a couple years on a weekend bike but on a daily bike you will have cracks in no time. Fill the recess with lead, if the body putty is thick you screwed. Thank you for the video, you a better body worker than me. If you want a bit more matt finish try dust spray from a distance.
I really like the look of that rear tire. I'm a raw metal w\ clear coat guy, i'm doing one right now.
Bare metal all the way brother! That brushed metal look is killer! The only hard thing is trying to cover the tank badge weld points to get that brush look through out the whole tank.
And another of your great videos! Thanks for taking the time to produce such useful and informative content. I have found your videos very useful whilst I am restoring a 55 year old Honda!
Cheers Mate!
Nice job!
The tank on my R1100gs started to leak after i cleaned it out. I had to redo it, and used a 3 part system to put a new liner on the inside of the tank.
I would really recommend anyone using an older tank to do this. first you degrease it, then acid treat it, and new liner goes in. easy enough job, and doesn't cost to much. i will definatly do that on my 2 cafe racer builds aswell.
Pristine Projects thanks mate you have a very good point 👍
POR15 degreaser, etch and seal is the best tank seal kit out there IMHO. I used it on a knackered CB200 tank which had a porous weld where the old petcock bung hole was closed. The welder described the metal on the tank as being like Swiss cheese, but the POR15 seal kit still did it's job!
dude, cool. now I feel more confidence to do paint job by myself. only one thing. you did speed up the part when you were actually applying the paint/otherstuff on the fuel tank but what I wanted is to see the painting technique
Although body filler would go better over steel, you need to prep the surface with 80 grit first to get good adhesion. Putting putty over the top of a smooth surface with nothing to bite into will cause it to bubble out later down the road. You also lay your etch primer on way too thick. You should use etch primer as a light top-coat and then coat over that with your surface primer. Etch primer is corrosive and as such will eat into the metal. Putting on thick coats will cause it to eat away more over time and can cause shrink back in your final paint job down the road. Your stuff turns out O.K. at a home level of craftsmanship and looks good for a short time. But with time and improper care, your job is doomed to fail sooner or later down the road.
Filler over bear metal never over primer. Unless you key the primer with a course sandpaper first. The filler needs a key to adhere otherwise you end up with the peeling like you did.
But what a sweet looking ride. One thing I would have gone for would be a dark brown leather for the seat but. Wow man. Beautiful.
That was a really great job mate! Personally, I like the bare brushed metal look on the tank. If this was mine I'd just clear coat the tank and call it done.
Great job! I liked the "matt finish" but it turned out AWESOME in the shiny clear / green and black... I'd leave it as it is!!
Wire Wool 0000 between each coat can help you a lot getting that smooth result aswell!
I’ve painted my 2 bikes twice each (tanks and some fenders), all done in the garage and every time a lot to learn. I also used the 2k aerosol - it’s great stuff. Sometimes I use 2k colour with no clear. The paint place I buy from don’t sell a 2k Matte clear aerosol because they say it doesn’t come out as “matte” as it should.
For the tank imperfection down the middle id say leave it for now, get the bike together & start using it. Maybe a bit of use, jacket rub, scrambling might rough up the tank a little and it’ll just add to the look.
Dale Paddon thanks for your comment mate yes that kind of makes sense just use the bike for a little while and see how much it bothers me to fix later, As for your 2K paint it definitely is a different breed of paint that’s for sure
Looking good . No problem with the gloss, its given you extra coat , so just rub dow til its matt and then lear coat with matt , all good
I don't know much about painting(hence my watching of this vid), but you're the first person I've ever seen that hoses down with water between coats. Pretty sure that primer is fairly porous, and hygroscopic. Probably take a long time to dry. I wonder if trapped moisture was the cause of your discoloration? Still, it looks awesome, and I agree with others about a leather strap up the middle of the tank. Very vintage cafe.
Yes you may be right and Its all a learning curve I guess :) thank you for your comment brother :)
Bare metal looked awesome, but I alsow loved the black tank!
I think the green looks better when the fenders are also green.
Anyway, great project, keep up the good work!
Really fun video mate. It's cool that you show the whole process and don't edit out your mistakes
I like the black and white tank scheme, I am spraying my cb125 tank with a silver grey acrylic paint and have a polyurethane clear aerosol , hope it works out!
Well done. I agreed the bare metal looked cool but the green pulled it off. Good job
Looks awesome Dan! Have been trying to decide if to have a go at painting the tank myself on my CB 550 then saw your video this morning! I’ve painted the frame, forks and brake callipers with great results but didn’t have a clue where to start on the tank. I’m sure the attention to detail and taking your time to get it right ensures the end result, which looks killer mate! And yes like a few people have already said a brown leather tank strap would look cool👍🏻🏍
Well done! Painting is all about the prep.
The milky discoloration is from humidity. I live in the S.E. United States and unless you have access to a booth it can't be avoided. Try to wait for a day where the barometer level is low and always spray in direct sunlight to cook off the humidity.
Put the tank in EvapoRust... It's like magic. Plus it gets in all the little cracks and grooves you can't reach :)
Great video.I think the tank looks great.I love your attention to detail That's what makes the difference.
Ya you want to do all yr body work first n always use the filler on the metal un premiered or painted to stick in the sanding grooves n stuff, it will fall out evidentially in time, it has nothing to really stick n grab too once you activate it n it goes to getting warm. But look's good, Idk what that L shape was at first but then realized. Looks awesome thou. Keep it up. God Bless!!
Instead of using wet blasting, in our aria we use baking soda for blasting any thin body panels. That should work on your tanks as well.
This dude made a video of how he was figuring out what to do. Nice.
Jurica Grčević I usually learn from my own mistakes so hopefully by me making a video like this will help others not make the same mistakes I made. :)
came out really nice, I like the green! Unfortunately you might notice some peeling of the clear coat around the filler neck because you didnt clear down into the filler neck.
Try a Leather Tank Strap. It Clips from the top and around the Fuel Cap and then down to the Bottom, Should look cool and you should be able to get the same colour.
You talked about not having a painting booth. I have painted tons of bikes outside on nice days with with no issues just use a bug net but hey that's here in FL. All my bikes have come out amazing. You don't even need a huge $500 gun. Start out small practicing with a harbor freight HLVP1.3 gun. With HLVP and shooting a motorcycle you don't need a big compressor.
I love brushed metal tank against the black & with the brown seat, I'm actually trying to figure out the best way to go about this with my sporty.
You did a great job for your frist try ! I would of not been able to do that well ! Its a good looking tank and bike! I think all around you did a realy good job.
I like the brushed steel look on the tank and the bike
what a superb job you have done. Love all your videos. Thank you for sharing all you knowledge.
Pretty bad ass!! Looking at doing the raw metal on my bobber with clear coats... thanks for the ideas!
Maybe a metal strap a bit wider than the filler cap that runs the length of the tank. Then use a simple die set to make the round hole for the filler cap and then some others evenly spaced to the seat. Just spit balling. Looks great from the side...
Making think about starting the convert on my 84’ CB750.
I would fix the imperfection in the center with a tank grip pad. Could cut a cool design of some sort. Get black to match of course.
Use p1000 wet sandpaper lightly on the spots and do a new mat finish very lightly. It probably will fix it. It will be a bit off a risk but that is painting. I love your bikes. I'm thinking about filming building bikes too. Now I do it without filming.
I love that green awesome kid and it will look better simi-gloss. Make a portable paint out of a cardboard box it really works. 1500 wet sand paper.
Great vid!!! Well done with the paint job, videography, explanation, timing & editing!!! I loved watching this!!!
Thank you for your fantastic feedback Jesse👍
Looking really good Dan , if it doesn't go you could just get a cafe garage sticker and strategically place it over it . For a clear and gloss look that was amazing but like you im thinking as ive watched the whole build it would only suit being matt ..
Great vid as usual .
Now lets see some videos of you n the bike on the road
Howdy, I hope you figured out what to do with that little blemish along the center of your tank. The paint came out really nice! If you haven't done anything with that blemish, may I suggest doing a "racing stripe" type of paint, in black of course, to accent the sides.
I'm not suggesting a change or anything but I'm curious as to why the putty was not used before the primer. If you really have an answer and not just two cents please leave a reply. Turned out great. Enjoyed the video.
Nice job documenting and sharing your thoughts and vision as you go through the job. Excellent video skills to show how beautiful motorcycles are and the process of working the job with moments and milestones to pause for.
Thank you so much mate, I'm glad you are enjoying the videos
A leather pouch to cover that imperfection. Looks army and can become handy!
John Neomaster That’s a really unique idea no one has mentioned that yet. I love the way you think
My man, it looks absolutely killer in gloss. I was always a fan of a military jeep in parade olive drab, but nice and shiny.
steven livingston it’s definitely a killer colour thank you so much for your comment.
Like the brushed tank dude. Bit of honest materiality and age.
Finally, a painting video that makes sense, 👍👍👍
damon hendrix Thanks so much mate, definitely made a few mistakes along the way :)
Thought the glossy green looked great, then i saw the matte finish, wow!
Great work mate. Maybe a decal of a number to keep the army theme going over the blemish you don’t like. Either way you’ve done a great job.
My dad is an auto body pro for over 40 years. He says you always use bondo on bare metal. It should have been the first part of this repair.
After the rust mitigation of course.
I have not done anything as complex as your tank. but if you use the exact same brand and type of paint. Use clear for your first 2 "tack" coats over the decals and the edges of the decals before you change to color it will look 100x better.
I have said it before, and ill say it again...
My dream-bike!
Greeting from Croatia!
hrx1973 Thanks brother it’s definitely been a fun bike to build
JB Weld is the sonic screwdriver.Would be good to have applied that in the recess of your emblem area.If you later had a pinhole leak it would stop it. And now days that is very likely with all of the ethanol in gas.
I will be painting my Honda shadow and sidecar to replicate the Bat Cycle from the 60's TV show. I have watched DOZENS of how to videos and WOW!! Yours has been THE MOST informative. How many coats of the black base and then how many coats of the green did you use? Thanks again, I think I might actually be able to pull this off!
27:08, that graying/fog is due to humidity. You may be able to fix it with a heat gun. If there's a lot of moisture in there, you'll have to sand and hit it again. Make sure its a dry day if your doing it outside.
I had the same problem when wet sanding the clear coat and when down into the base. I’m now repainting the lot as it annoyed me to much. The pains of learning how to paint😂. Maybe a brown leather tank strap
Love the brushed steel look. Looks fantastic
Oxalic acid disolves iron oxide thoroughly, although you would be left with pitting where the rust had been.
Nice video. Since you mentioned being a perfectionist, did you think about touching the raw steel with a bare hand? Yikes. I would have had it glass beaded, then clean with Acetone and an etching primer. That way there are no residual chemicals from stripping. Gloves would keep the skin oils off. After 2-coats of either etching primer or Epoxy primer, a glide coat to keep orange peel away is a big help. Oddly, I do like the brushed stell look, maybe with a stain clear coat.
Tank looks good bare, but then again you can never really go wrong with those colors, black brown an gun metal
As you’ve proved, you can get a good finish with rattle cans. I usually use them, but clear coat them with a spray gun! 👍
Damn. Had no idea you could just use spray cans. Going to try this technique. Any tips for keeping the coat really smooth?
@@chelseabrown462 yes, you must build the coats up in light layers until you have complete coverage, then once that has dried you can go a bit heavier, but do NOT stop when spraying, always keep moving!
A warm room and warm paint helps the finish as well!
Awesome video and a great choice of Green/Black combo. Bravo!!!
Naked tank looks awesome, should of polished it right up for a mirror finish. Great video!!
You need to rub over your primer with say 180 before you put any filler on or the filler will keep breaking back and not stick , hope that help buddy 👍🏻👍🏻
Great work man! Yet more evidence that with a little patience and know-how, cans of spray paint can make quality finishes.
I didn't know that about the flash time for the matte spray max 2k. Good to know because i have a client job coming up where I'm going to use it.
15 minutes flash time between layers
Re-watching a lot of your videos as I start my next project xD
Wasn't convinced about this until I saw the satin finish. Well judged!!
Atlas Robotics thank you so much mate it’s definitely one of those risks that you have to take if you have an idea in your head and you just want that finished result. I’m very happy with the end result apart from the small blemishes which I can finish at a later stage if I want to
A frame-bracket-thingy! I think that will look awesome.
Top job! 😀👍
Kristoffer-robin Lotze Frame bracket thingy sounds like a fun thing to build to 👌👍
@@CafeRacerGarage Awesome... and a fun video to watch. 😉
it looked really nice glossy but if it dont turn out how you imagine in your head then it just isn't right lol cracking job!
The clear didn't came out matte because you didn't leave enough time for the first coat to dry. Usually double time. 30 min to 45 min to completely dry. The same applies to the other coats.
Have a tank bib made in the same material as your seat. With or without a cell phone pouch.
Etch primer should go on very lightly and you should be able to see the steel underneath if it is use like a primer and and you can't see the steel it won't stick properly. It goes on thin and it will enable the acid to bite into the steel.
The matte looks great. Nice work. Thanks
wow for a rattle can it look Great . you did great job
I’m curious if you wanted a fine metallic effect could you spray that in clear to get a consistent finish? Fine metallic matte might looks stunning?
Great video. I liked it as bare metal, it looked really cool. But now its all painted it looks even better. Great job. Really good explanations through out.
BB's Customs Thanks mate unfortunately to keep the bear metal tank would’ve been a mission with the badge dish outs on the side of the tank, I just kind of wanted to do something different compared to a lot of the other builds out there :)
Probably when you where sanding the gloss coat you sand too much on that spot and hit the paint underneath, that could cause some stains like those ones. the tank looks awesome, the matt finish just suit rhe paint and the bike. I think some kind of leather strap on the center bit not all the way to the top would look cool , maibe not flat but whith some stitches and then some kind of grill over it like you where talking about. cheers from Portugal, I really like your videos and your projects, best wishes.
Excellent video and easy to follow instruction. Subscribed to learn more bits and pieces