Incredible metal work and explanation of how you approach the work! And a Mad Fabricators t-shirt shout out! Go Cornfield Customs, keep moving forward!
Thank you a lot- I’m 10 minutes into your Mustang rear panel repair and you’ve shown me so much detail…. I’m a Contractor with lots of cross-building abilities but that trick with the drywall blade is magic… I’m building a ‘35 Chevy Master Deluxe Coach (yeah the same as Foose’s GRAND MASTER) so I want my body work to be NICE Some guys here are hacks or just don’t show you the really good methods Thanks much Mike in Erie Co WNY THANKS!
New subscriber here . I just seen Karls tour of the shop . I have a new favorite now ,i will look forward to your latest videos. Thank you for passing on your knowledge and expertise.
Nice, detailed description of the process and of your work. Kudos for a shout out to your camera guy for his great work as well! Great team effort on the vid! THX!
Always love your work, Mike . Can you go into the planishing hammer a bit please. And the shrinking disc, too. I have not long bought a disc. And want to make a decision on the type of hammer to purchase. Thanks Mike
Hey Mike. Great video as usual. Showcases your talents from the chassis through all the different types of body work. I really enjoy your videos. Keep up the great work.
Welding up Cleco Holes is really easy most of the time, there’s various tools either handheld or magnetic that holds a piece of copper on the backside of the hole and you can quickly zap it with your MiG Welder and the copper doesn’t stick. Occasionally you get spots where the commonly available tools don’t work because it’s too far back from an opening and that’s why I made a couple long handled ones of various sizes and bends and can almost always get a copper backing pad against it unless there simply isn’t access to the backside but that’s not common
@@peltiereric6497 i personally dont use any of the tools or a mig welder. All sheet metal is tig welded in my shop. Its a simple process with the tig, just wet the edges of the cleco hole, add some 1/16 filler snd loop the hole closed
@ I learned to weld on a Tig before I learned any other process and I have 2 Tig capable machines in my garage but I tend to use Mig because it’s quicker less time for heat buildup and easier but do love to sit down and Tig for the right project but I’m a disabled veteran and walk with a cane so running a foot pedal standing up doesn’t work for me
@ tig is actually faster since you can run a long continuous weld instead of little stitches with the mig, and you dont have to grind the weld off like with a mig. Also you have way more control with the heat input. Tig is the best route when it comes to sheet metal
Great stuff, as usual. I'm always impressed by someone that can tig weld equally well right or left handed. That's no small feat, my welding with the torch in my left hand really sucks..
Hi Mike. Still might be too long for your tail light area but I find my short series 1/8'' clecoes are really handy for tight spots. Love your work, John.
Incredibly impressive work, thanks for sharing! I think someone else also asked but how do you keep the projects rust free when they’re sitting for a while? I’m using a dehumidifier and trying to push my workspace below 50% RH but occasionally still get surface rust on my bare steel project.
National Parts Depot has those quarterpanel inner rear extensions, part numbers #28058-3A for the right side, #28059-3A for the Left side, I wouldn't sacrifice a whole quarterpanel just for those pieces....
Oh, ok, I got mine a while back and I just looked online and they were still listed there, but yeah if someone butchered and made more waves than the Pacific Ocean there then you obviously made the right choice, excellent workmanship too by the way 😊
I quite agree with your reasoning to metal finishing to 90%, that is almost perfect . Filler does have a bad press though but as you say a good coat of high build primer will level the remaining imperfections. When I finish my welded joints, they're not as perfect as yours - I can still see the edges of the weld.
My welds are probably like yours mostly flush across but some spots a little edge is still visible. It will be no issue though. Cars I did back in the 80s and 90s that had overlap joints like the old Mustang cheaters still look fine today. I try to keep filler to a minimum for me especially when I see guys coat a whole car. I like to drive my cars and would rather build 3 nice cars and enjoy them than 10 or more years on one and maybe never finish.
Fantastic work! Great info for a beginner like myself. Question: What do you use to protect the panel surfaces from surface rust as you work on them over the days/weeks? Thanks!
@@cornfieldcustoms "Finger banging" Hahaha! My garage isn't climate controlled, do you have a recommendation? I've used Ospho on some of my infrequently used tools that had some surface rust and seems to be keeping it at bay. Bot I don't have any idea if this would be problematic for welding. Thoughts?
Filling holes like that, I use a 2" square of 1/4" copper plate I've hammered a slight dome into. Use a magnet finger to hold it in place, and use the MIG gun to fill the hole with the copper dissipating the heat. With a flat chunk of the same stuff, I've done repairs in heavy steel bracketry. I've done everything from 20 ga to 1/8" thick steel that way. Get your feed and amperage set correctly, and you don't get any overpenetration, and barely any rise. A light touch with a sanding flap disk on the angle grinder and the surface is cleaned right up. If ya ain't cheatin' ya ain't tryin', as my welding instructor used to say. :D
Though it's definitely good to hear that my standard of "metal finishing" is, in fact, actually kind of insane. I already knew I was nuts, but the confirmation is a plus. :D
Thank you, as always some truly great info. Some time in the future it would be cool if you got “ a welding helmet for your camera “ so we can see the wetting of the edge and adding the filler as you see it. Thank you again, and as always great content.
@@cornfieldcustoms do you plan on doing a video im thinking about buying one to do dents on my 61 chevy biscyne im not going to paint the car i want to keep the patina but it has some dents that i would like to work out and keep the orignal paint does that make sence to do that thank you for getting back to me on this. Tony
As a kid of about 9 I recall seeing an early 60’s Pontiac with bodywork behind the rear wheel. Some of it had broken away so you could see the chicken wire and some gravel that got caught in it. 😮
I always enjoy your very informative videos Mike. I am curious. Where did you learn your autobody fabrication techniques and skills? Did you work with another pro? Same with the frame building. Did you just buy the huge bender and experiment until you had it right or did you have another expert show you the bending ropes? I am self taught on what skills I have but nowhere near your skills. Thanks, Tom
I am self taught on sheet metal and chassis work. I opened the shop full time pretty much right out of school. as a as the bender I bought it with no mandrel bending experience and asked with the manufacturer and another person who owns one and got to bending and learning as i went
@@bbj7309 i cant speak for what ever paint shop does with the car when it leaves here since i dont do paint. But on my cars they get epoxy over bare metal, majority of filler/ body work, then another coat of epoxy to lock it in. Then final high build, block, seal, paint
Mike fantastic work ,looks great ,great job on the camera Dom ,Happy Thanksgiving guys ,cant wait for the next video, and for the floor video on the mustang
Looking Good. Happy Thanksgiving. Dom is doing a Great Job. Hope that he stays with you. He seems to learn & love whet he is doing! #STAYSAFE #PHILLYPHILLY 🇺🇸
Hello, I might have missed it so forgive. Why all the Cleco holes on that quarter panel? I count around 12 holes? You mentioned the car came in with work done already to it but I got lost in the explanation on who did what. I looked at your other videos on this 67 to answer my own question but did not find anything. Was a 2" strip of steel used on the inside edge and cleco'ed to the original steel so you could butt weld the panels together? Prevent blow-through when welding the panels together? Thanks
the car was mostly done when it came in, then i had to cut the majority of back apart to replace and correct things. there was no strip added to the back, I make a use a cleco tab the bridges the seam and holds them together in a butt weld.
THANKS! I totally understand your process now. I watched the hood transformation videos where you grafted the two together and you explained the Cleco tabs there. AMAZING!
If your shrinking disc is slightly bent will it not work? Mine wobbles about an 1/8” max and can’t seem to get it straight. Wondering if that is part of my struggles.
@JD-ct9rw I work at a body shop and treated the 70 firebird that we just had media blasted about a month ago ,at the body shop we wipe every piece of bare metal first before priming as we offer lifetime guarantee for rust ,we wiped my buddies bird down with first with these AKZONOBEL autoprep pretreatment wipes item 1014570,shop heated to 64 in the winter (Canada)no rust ,even touched with bare hands ,still no rust ,in Canada ,they cost me$ 223.00 for 25 towelettes, used 4 to wipe bird down ,but they are worth it ,my personal opinion, hope this helps
I'd be interested to hear how you plan your time/ charge for projects like this. You mentioned it was on hold while the client sorted himself out, you also said 'work cycle'. do customers typically pay in installments and maybe you define work to be completed for each installment? I am a machinist by trade so its all fairly predictable for the work i do, but it really baffels me how you quote for work like this.
@@ashreid20 i dont quote. Everything is 100% time and material. We set a rotation budget, so lets say 40 hours per rotation, thats $4800 per rotation. I hit that number ( or close) then send invoice. Once invoice is paid they are scheduled in next rotation. For some things like medical emergencies i work with the clients as best i can especially the larger projects.
I would have liked to have seen how you made the end pieces to blend in the tail light housing to the existing body. That’s the kind of hand fabrication we want to see.
Hi Mike, I love your videos, I have question about planishing out a weld seam like that, do you have to grind the inside of the panel as well to be able to hammer and dolly it nicely?
Thx for the reply. I was just curious because I see on other TH-cam videos where people use fiberglass filler to seal up welds. I know nothing either way, having not done this type of work in the past. Just wanted to know what you do in that regard. I enjoyed the details in your video.
@ usually people who use that on weld seams are just tacking the seam and calling it good, or just caving and paving. Both of those are sub par jobs in my opinion
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Another master fabricator who gives back by patiently teaching us.
Glad I could help!
Splitting in the middle of a quarter panel with compound curves would give most guys a migraine! Nicely done
Thanks! It's definitely a challenge!
hi Mike from australia, i love your videos, your not only a metal master, but you have a great way of teaching, always glad to see a new video up.
Thank you very much!
Great job i been in body shops as a painter for over 40 years you do some amazing work.
Thanks
That's only 90% finished? I don't think I've ever seen 100% done as your work looks superb! Fistbumps from the UK!
Thank you very much!
Incredible metal work and explanation of how you approach the work! And a Mad Fabricators t-shirt shout out! Go Cornfield Customs, keep moving forward!
Thank you!
Over the years, I've seen many videos on body work. You're at the top of the list nice work
Thank you
Thank you a lot- I’m 10 minutes into your Mustang rear panel repair and you’ve shown me so much detail….
I’m a Contractor with lots of cross-building abilities but that trick with the drywall blade is magic…
I’m building a ‘35 Chevy Master Deluxe Coach (yeah the same as Foose’s GRAND MASTER) so I want my body work to be NICE
Some guys here are hacks or just don’t show you the really good methods
Thanks much
Mike in Erie Co WNY
THANKS!
Thanks for watching
Love it when you put a nice chill loungy music on when you are planishing that quarterpanel what is probably the most anoying sound of the shop 😂
its very loud
you can use the glass from an old shield so your camera can see the welds better.
Never say never and use all the tools at your disposal. Sheetmetal screws for the win for the right application. Thanks Mike 👍
Very nice work Mike. that planishing hammer works wonders! It would take me days to hand planish that out to be anywhere near that finish👍
New subscriber here . I just seen Karls tour of the shop . I have a new favorite now ,i will look forward to your latest videos. Thank you for passing on your knowledge and expertise.
Thanks for watching!
As you are always being told: really awesome work. I am glad that your channel came onto my feed.
Thanks, appreciate that!
Wow! You are a true artist. Beautiful work
Many thanks!
Nice, detailed description of the process and of your work. Kudos for a shout out to your camera guy for his great work as well! Great team effort on the vid! THX!
Thanks, glad you liked it!
Real Iron Man, Kudos Brother..
Love the sheet metal screws. So useful. You're doing great work. Keep it up.
@@davidf7883 personally i hate sheet metal screws and avoid using them if at all possible
I love the ghost line showing, where the weld was, that's so cool
Thanks for the detailed explanation! I'll need to go out and practice those tips on filling the cleco holes.
Really nice work on that quarter!
Thanks, nice work, thank you for explaining why you used the screws in that location.
Thanks!
Thank you!
Awesome work as always, always love watching a perfectionist at work 👍
Thanks 👍
Beautiful work, Mike!
@@RonCovellthank you Ron
Always love your work, Mike . Can you go into the planishing hammer a bit please. And the shrinking disc, too. I have not long bought a disc. And want to make a decision on the type of hammer to purchase. Thanks Mike
Hey Mike. Great video as usual. Showcases your talents from the chassis through all the different types of body work. I really enjoy your videos. Keep up the great work.
Thanks 👍
Welding up Cleco Holes is really easy most of the time, there’s various tools either handheld or magnetic that holds a piece of copper on the backside of the hole and you can quickly zap it with your MiG Welder and the copper doesn’t stick. Occasionally you get spots where the commonly available tools don’t work because it’s too far back from an opening and that’s why I made a couple long handled ones of various sizes and bends and can almost always get a copper backing pad against it unless there simply isn’t access to the backside but that’s not common
@@peltiereric6497 i personally dont use any of the tools or a mig welder. All sheet metal is tig welded in my shop. Its a simple process with the tig, just wet the edges of the cleco hole, add some 1/16 filler snd loop the hole closed
@ I learned to weld on a Tig before I learned any other process and I have 2 Tig capable machines in my garage but I tend to use Mig because it’s quicker less time for heat buildup and easier but do love to sit down and Tig for the right project but I’m a disabled veteran and walk with a cane so running a foot pedal standing up doesn’t work for me
@ tig is actually faster since you can run a long continuous weld instead of little stitches with the mig, and you dont have to grind the weld off like with a mig. Also you have way more control with the heat input. Tig is the best route when it comes to sheet metal
Great stuff, as usual. I'm always impressed by someone that can tig weld equally well right or left handed. That's no small feat, my welding with the torch in my left hand really sucks..
Hi Mike. Still might be too long for your tail light area but I find my short series 1/8'' clecoes are really handy for tight spots. Love your work, John.
@@johnhunt6992 i have the short ones and they were still to long
100% agree, am 65 and fillers, well used are a good material for beautifull results.
Your compassion is incredible ❤🐾🐾🇺🇸🏁Thanks for being a great human.
thank you
Dude, yes you can.. quality work.
Thanks!
Incredibly impressive work, thanks for sharing!
I think someone else also asked but how do you keep the projects rust free when they’re sitting for a while?
I’m using a dehumidifier and trying to push my workspace below 50% RH but occasionally still get surface rust on my bare steel project.
I personally use gibbs, can be purchased on Amazon. Has worked EXTREMELY well. I'm also very curious how he does it at his shop.
Don't touch the bare metal-your skin has oil that can contaminate it. Also, my shop is climate-controlled, so conditions are ideal!
@@cornfieldcustoms So after working a bare panel with bare hands you wipe down with?
@ sprayway glass cleaner
this is the first time i watched your channel awsome just subscribed thanks
National Parts Depot has those quarterpanel inner rear extensions, part numbers #28058-3A for the right side, #28059-3A for the Left side, I wouldn't sacrifice a whole quarterpanel just for those pieces....
@@randylakeman8586 i called and they were not available plus the quarters were a mess from how they welded everything solid.
Oh, ok, I got mine a while back and I just looked online and they were still listed there, but yeah if someone butchered and made more waves than the Pacific Ocean there then you obviously made the right choice, excellent workmanship too by the way 😊
Just purchased the OX kit. Looking forward to using it in damaged auto body panel repairs. Save me a lot of hammer and dolly work I hope!
I quite agree with your reasoning to metal finishing to 90%, that is almost perfect .
Filler does have a bad press though but as you say a good coat of high build primer will level the remaining imperfections.
When I finish my welded joints, they're not as perfect as yours - I can still see the edges of the weld.
My welds are probably like yours mostly flush across but some spots a little edge is still visible. It will be no issue though. Cars I did back in the 80s and 90s that had overlap joints like the old Mustang cheaters still look fine today. I try to keep filler to a minimum for me especially when I see guys coat a whole car. I like to drive my cars and would rather build 3 nice cars and enjoy them than 10 or more years on one and maybe never finish.
Fantastic work! Great info for a beginner like myself. Question: What do you use to protect the panel surfaces from surface rust as you work on them over the days/weeks? Thanks!
@@JayBobStuff nothing, the shop is climate controlled and no one is finger banging the bare metal
@@cornfieldcustoms "Finger banging" Hahaha! My garage isn't climate controlled, do you have a recommendation? I've used Ospho on some of my infrequently used tools that had some surface rust and seems to be keeping it at bay. Bot I don't have any idea if this would be problematic for welding. Thoughts?
@ never used it so i cant say
Great video! I have so much to learn
Thanks for watching!
Great content as usual. Good video Dom.
Appreciate it!
I like encapsulating any filter between primers. That means primer first and preferably one with an open time to allow encapsulation of the filler.
@@danielbuckner2167 i dont do any filler work here
@@cornfieldcustoms you described your (or someone elses presumed) process in the video. I made note and commented accordingly. 🙂
This is absolutely amazing.
Thanks
Filling holes like that, I use a 2" square of 1/4" copper plate I've hammered a slight dome into. Use a magnet finger to hold it in place, and use the MIG gun to fill the hole with the copper dissipating the heat. With a flat chunk of the same stuff, I've done repairs in heavy steel bracketry. I've done everything from 20 ga to 1/8" thick steel that way. Get your feed and amperage set correctly, and you don't get any overpenetration, and barely any rise. A light touch with a sanding flap disk on the angle grinder and the surface is cleaned right up.
If ya ain't cheatin' ya ain't tryin', as my welding instructor used to say. :D
Though it's definitely good to hear that my standard of "metal finishing" is, in fact, actually kind of insane. I already knew I was nuts, but the confirmation is a plus. :D
@@ohar7237 that might work for you but i will never use a MIG Welder on sheet metal.
Great project fantastic work thanks for the video Mike.
Thank you, as always some truly great info. Some time in the future it would be cool if you got “ a welding helmet for your camera “ so we can see the wetting of the edge and adding the filler as you see it. Thank you again, and as always great content.
Its tough to get good footage of the welding process, even with a lens for the camera.
Love the video! learning is what i like doing in my spare time.
Thanks for watching
Great content Mike. I like the new style with camera operator. Must be quicker and easier for you.
Glad you like it!
Great video. Not hating the screws, sometimes you need to do the ugly to get the job done!
Thanks, I’m always looking for ways to make things look good!
Hey Mike do you have a video on the oxfeild pullusting hammer?????
Ive posted a short on it but nothing in depth
@@cornfieldcustoms do you plan on doing a video im thinking about buying one to do dents on my 61 chevy biscyne im not going to paint the car i want to keep the patina but it has some dents that i would like to work out and keep the orignal paint does that make sence to do that thank you for getting back to me on this. Tony
I will look into it
Reminds me of an old Jonny Cash song 😂, but i am sure it will turn out wonderfully.
As a kid of about 9 I recall seeing an early 60’s Pontiac with bodywork behind the rear wheel. Some of it had broken away so you could see the chicken wire and some gravel that got caught in it. 😮
Impressive doing a butt weld in the middle of a panel with very little distortion. Nice work.
Not the best choice IMHO. Better to do it as close to the end by the tail light as possible because stiffer areas of a panel, vibrate less.
I love watching your video. You do a great job.
I always enjoy your very informative videos Mike. I am curious. Where did you learn your autobody fabrication techniques and skills? Did you work with another pro? Same with the frame building. Did you just buy the huge bender and experiment until you had it right or did you have another expert show you the bending ropes? I am self taught on what skills I have but nowhere near your skills. Thanks, Tom
I am self taught on sheet metal and chassis work. I opened the shop full time pretty much right out of school. as a as the bender I bought it with no mandrel bending experience and asked with the manufacturer and another person who owns one and got to bending and learning as i went
@ ,well kudos to you. You have sure helped many people on different metalwork projects. Keep up the good work! Tom
I forgot to mention your shop looks really nice also
Thanks
Beautiful work
Thanks!
Yet another cool tool to add to my shopping list. Thanks for teaching the craft Mike! Happy Thanksgiving
Happy Thanksgiving to you too!
Hi Mike , I just found your channel. Reminds me of many hours massing with fabrication.
Looking forward to the project.
Glad you found the channel!
Great video ! Do they put epoxy primer on bare metal then body filler or body filler then primer ?
@@bbj7309 i cant speak for what ever paint shop does with the car when it leaves here since i dont do paint. But on my cars they get epoxy over bare metal, majority of filler/ body work, then another coat of epoxy to lock it in. Then final high build, block, seal, paint
Mike fantastic work ,looks great ,great job on the camera Dom ,Happy Thanksgiving guys ,cant wait for the next video, and for the floor video on the mustang
Thanks for watching and we are glad you enjoyed the video!
Can you tell me more about your planishing hammer? Much thanks.
Its an OX planishing hammer
@ Just checked it out. Much thanks.
Looking Good. Happy Thanksgiving. Dom is doing a Great Job. Hope that he stays with you. He seems to learn & love whet he is doing!
#STAYSAFE
#PHILLYPHILLY 🇺🇸
Hello, I might have missed it so forgive. Why all the Cleco holes on that quarter panel? I count around 12 holes? You mentioned the car came in with work done already to it but I got lost in the explanation on who did what. I looked at your other videos on this 67 to answer my own question but did not find anything. Was a 2" strip of steel used on the inside edge and cleco'ed to the original steel so you could butt weld the panels together? Prevent blow-through when welding the panels together? Thanks
the car was mostly done when it came in, then i had to cut the majority of back apart to replace and correct things. there was no strip added to the back, I make a use a cleco tab the bridges the seam and holds them together in a butt weld.
THANKS! I totally understand your process now. I watched the hood transformation videos where you grafted the two together and you explained the Cleco tabs there. AMAZING!
Outstanding technique!
Very nice work
Thanks a lot
Very very good video ! Thank you for sharing
I'm new to the channel. Nice videos! How do you keep the bare metal from flash rusting in a shop environment?
@@davidhyson9910 the shop is climate controlled year round and no one touches the bare metal if its not being worked on
Awesome work
Thanks again!
Great idea with the taping knife.
If your shrinking disc is slightly bent will it not work? Mine wobbles about an 1/8” max and can’t seem to get it straight. Wondering if that is part of my struggles.
Excellent thank you!!
You're welcome!
Great job, true Master. Was wondering what you use on your bare steel to stop it from rusting while its in between jobs?
@@JD-ct9rw i dont use anything on the metal. The shop is climate controlled and I dont finger bang the bare metal to death
@JD-ct9rw I work at a body shop and treated the 70 firebird that we just had media blasted about a month ago ,at the body shop we wipe every piece of bare metal first before priming as we offer lifetime guarantee for rust ,we wiped my buddies bird down with first with these AKZONOBEL autoprep pretreatment wipes item 1014570,shop heated to 64 in the winter (Canada)no rust ,even touched with bare hands ,still no rust ,in Canada ,they cost me$ 223.00 for 25 towelettes, used 4 to wipe bird down ,but they are worth it ,my personal opinion, hope this helps
I'd be interested to hear how you plan your time/ charge for projects like this. You mentioned it was on hold while the client sorted himself out, you also said 'work cycle'. do customers typically pay in installments and maybe you define work to be completed for each installment? I am a machinist by trade so its all fairly predictable for the work i do, but it really baffels me how you quote for work like this.
@@ashreid20 i dont quote. Everything is 100% time and material. We set a rotation budget, so lets say 40 hours per rotation, thats $4800 per rotation. I hit that number ( or close) then send invoice. Once invoice is paid they are scheduled in next rotation. For some things like medical emergencies i work with the clients as best i can especially the larger projects.
@ interesting, thank you
Kool video again thx Mike
Doms doing a good job 👍
Thanks for watching!
I have seen it in person. Very cool!
Sometimes you just need to use flat head screws. Hello from Australia
👍👍👍 Could you please have a second go with the cleco Welding and showing the arc in close-up. I believe you have to use a filter on the camera.
It's hard to capture welding on camera. I edited the footage to improve it, but the brightness is still intense!
I would have liked to have seen how you made the end pieces to blend in the tail light housing to the existing body. That’s the kind of hand fabrication we want to see.
@@sblack48 unfortunately i cant film everything at all times. I get busy working and just work.
@ i get it. But in the future even a couple of stills and explaining how you made the part would be great
Hi Mike, I love your videos, I have question about planishing out a weld seam like that, do you have to grind the inside of the panel as well to be able to hammer and dolly it nicely?
@@brianzelenka6204 you only need to grind the weld if you have a lot of weld build up
How do you keep your bar metal rust free while working on it. I live in Florida.
@@randywiddis shop is climate controlled. Doors stay shut and I dont finger bang the metal
@cornfieldcustoms 👍
Your "pretty good" is pretty awesome!
Love the light lines
Thanks for your videos
Happy Thanksgiving to you and your family
Same to you!
Coming out nice . What is your opinion on lead work , is it a lost art ?
@@michaelhallas6450 I see no benefit to lead
@ Ok Thanks
All those Clecos!!! Can you donate some of them to Kevin Tetz? He keeps leaving his 'at the other shop'. 🤣
Always wondered how the backside of the panel welds on these hot rods get finished
I got a video on it!
@ for hem edged panels you do
@ most panels i try to put panel seams where i can access both sides
Do you use fiberglass strand filler on the weld seam?
@@MikeLydon-s6g i dont do any filler work at my shop and why would you need fiber filled?
Thx for the reply. I was just curious because I see on other TH-cam videos where people use fiberglass filler to seal up welds. I know nothing either way, having not done this type of work in the past. Just wanted to know what you do in that regard. I enjoyed the details in your video.
@ usually people who use that on weld seams are just tacking the seam and calling it good, or just caving and paving. Both of those are sub par jobs in my opinion
Thanks for the tips
Thanks for watching!
I’d love to be teaching myself all these skills, I’ve been out of the game for a long time.
This old dog needs some new tricks.
How do you avoid/control surface rust since it’s been sitting for a year? Sorry I’m sure you have covered this at some point.
@@Solo2fanGTA shop is climate controlled and no one finger bangs the bare metal
Man, i wish my weld seems turned out like that
do you use a rotisserie body jig.
@@mikepoindexter3472 rarely
Awsome...
... I'm glad you do it (so I don't have to) ....
I like the '67 taillights though. 😅
Description links are broken. I think just the ones that end in ...
Thanks! I had no idea ill get them fixed
Badass
How on earth do you guys keep a bare metal project from rusting out for that long?
@@buildyown climate controlled shop and not finger banging the bare metal to death
Ghost at 8:41 opened the door!
He is a great helper