There truly is nobody better at explaining these jobs better than you. Thank you for being so thorough and helping all of us who are just trying to keep our trucks running so we can continue to work.
man you saved my butt. stuck out in the mountains middle of no where with no four wheel drive. got on you tube and watched your video found the problem in the reservior and was able to patch the problem and get home
Man, a 7 year old video saves so much time... I appreciate the information you provide, ohms etc. Great to take a few minutes to see what your checking before going out to work on stuck 4 Low in the rain... Thank you sir!
Thanks so much! I have taught school and aviation instruction and you are an excellent teacher for Auto tech stuff. You are very clear, concise and easy to understand. You go slow enough for us who are just learning the system, even though you fully understand it. That is a sign of someone who KNOWS HOW TO INSTRUCT! Nicely done. Thanks for the help!
I got a 2002 F150 4x4,got stuck on a road during deer season,had to get pulled out n towed home,thanks to your video I was able to trouble shoot the problem myself,ended up finding my vacuum lines going down to my actuator wer broken n brittle,i'm very thankful I was able to find your video
Hi FordTechMakuloco. Great video ! Did all the checks for the solenoids and no ground to the 4wd solenoid. All other electrics from GEM are functioning except that one and when you put the switch in 4wd it would click on the right side of the dash 4 times then do nothing, no light, no 4wd and it would only do it once for each power up of the key. Crawled underneath and the transfer case motor was pretty rusty looking and tried tapping it with a hammer but did no good. Bought a new Dorman motor and installed it, reset the computer by disconnecting the battery and the first time it did not work. Powered the key on and off a few times with the switch set to 4wd and wholla, all works fine on the jack stands now. Took it for a test ride after dinner and it works like new, both in high and low range. Thanks a million !!
Great video. I have searched high and low for a comprehensive diagnostics video I could use to help me with my problems on my 1998 F150. I don't mind buying parts as long as I know it will fix the problem. With your help I think I can nail it down once and for all. I did find another good video someone did about cleaning the contacts on the selector switch which I will do first. Between the two I am confident I can finally get things working as they should. Good work man and thanks.
@@gameondude3617 Gosh it has been so long and I donated the truck a few years back. Mine ended up being the actuator. Once I replaced that it worked fine. Oddly I am now having similar problems with my 2010 F150. I love Ford trucks but their 4WD leaves something to be desired. Good luck man.
Thoroughly enjoy your efforts. I look forward to your videos daily. Not because I have any issues with my 06 Explorer but I'm always looking to learn. Your training abilities are awesome!
I sure appreciate your video on this. I wish I could have had internet connection on the mountain today to see this helpful information. I made it out with help from other guys. I could have diagnosed and fixed my problem on the trail with this video. Thank you.
thank you so much for this. I troubleshooted this perfectly. my next question, how do you troubleshoot the engagement of the actual transfer case when you shift into 4wd? thanks!
Awesome video. Thx for the info. This was very thorough and easy to understand. I'm in the Obx and was attempting to go onto the "4x4 drive on beach". I turned the switch to 4H and nothing happened. Ended up having to get towed out of the sand. Got back to the house, watched your video and turns out my actuator was stuck. I manually depressed it a few times and now everything is working fine. I use TH-cam for a lot of the do-it yourself videos and I must say this is one of the best I've seen!!! Thx again.
Great video. Thank you for sharing this. You just helped me diagnose and fix my 99 F150. When I hooked vacuum to just the bottom port of 4x4 solonoid, had no vacuum from top port. Changed 4x4 Solonoid ($25) and it works perfectly!
I did same thing and no vacuum from top port on 4x4 solenoid. But ohms tested good. Still replace it? Or could it be vacuum from the box next to battery
Love your videos, watched a few and fixed my four wheel drive yesterday. It was a vacuum issue, I had a clogged check valve right before the solenoid. 05 F-150 Lariat. Couldn't have fixed it myself without your awesome videos, keep up the good work!!
Thank you I recently bought 2001 f150 that was sitting for a little bit,it's a good truck with high miles and gaskets seals and sensors is what I'm going through. Awesome intake video replacement you provided and that's what I'm doing next is oil filter coolant gasket and then making it goes into 4wd properly. Thank you again your knowledge and effort are well received, Thank you
Thank you so much for posting this video. Your step by step instruction was very helpful in allowing me to test system by system and ultimately repairing my 4Wd provblem for just $46 in parts! Happy New Year!
Man, your videos are amazing. 10/10...I’ve learned A LOT about Fords over the past year or so thanks to you! Thank you FTM!! Next time I pass through Illinois I’d love to stop in and check out BSG Automotive!
I personally never had an issue with manual hubs and a lever. I would very much like to give the inventor of these yuppified systems a proper thrashing. I wouldn't mind it so much if was optional, but it's no any more on the 150's to the best of my knowledge.
How many thousands of people have had issues with other/different styles of 4x4 systems though? Really? Just because it's lever operated absolutely does not mean it's trouble free.
@@forrestputman7617 True, but most of us with these vacuum operated 4x4 shifters all hate them to fucking hell and back. I know my ex's 7.3 4x4 shifter worked amazingly well with 229,800 miles on it (she was batshit crazy, but had a badass truck)! I tried buying it off of her but her dad refused haha. Ended up with a 5.4 F150 and wish I got something bigger.
Great video! I followed the vacuum all the way down to the vacuum switch that moves the control arm that engages the front axles but the pin on vacuum switch was not moving. After moving the pin in and out manually about 20 times by prying on the control arm with a screw driver the mechanical was easier to move. The pin on the vacuum switch actually started moving in and out like it was designed to move. Lesson here for me is probably to engage 4 WD more often so the control arm does not get stuck from lack of use Thanks for your awesome video!
Could you send me that diagram. I'm having issues with my 2002. I turn the selector and I hear nothing . No clicking of any kind when I select 4h or 4L any help. Would be awsome. Thanks ahead of time. If you need my email or FB messenger let me know.
No clue if you will see this comment on this old video. But I was trying to track down a vacuum issue for the last while. Today I was looking at those 4wd vaccum lines and there appears to be a blue line just open, not hooked to anything not capped, its in the same protective loom as the one that goes down to the passenger side hub. Any clue if this is normal? If not what line would it be...? I am pretty positive it is a dark blue line. Any help would be appreciated.
thanks my friend, your a big help. My problem is the acuator is going all the way in and out when i jack it up running (98f150 floor shifter) but going down the road it wants to creep to 4x4 and the light goes on and hear clunk in front pumkin area preceeded by a squeel. i took off the rubber boot and oiled it good bringing it in and out jacked up thinking it might be intermittent binding at the acuator
Thank You First of all! My problem starts with the 2 wheel solenoid Power on the positive and negative side and when the key is off still grounded on the negative while testing from the positive battery terminal. Also Power on the 4x4 positive terminal and no reading on the negative solenoid terminal regardless of key and 4x4 switch position. No light on the dash , no clicking etc. Thinking about replacing the gem module? great Video gives me confidence.respectfully John
Your video was awesome thank you so much..I have a 97 expedition EB. I can get her into 4x4 in all 3 modes but after 10min or so the indicator light will start flashing between 4 x 4 and 4AWD then eventually stick in 4-wheel drive and nothing will happen when I move the switch. The only way I can get it out of 4 wheel drive is to disconnect the battery. I went around for a few months in 2 wheel drive not needing four wheel drive but when I went to engage it it would not.. thought I would start where I left off so I disconnected the battery and low and behold it would then go into 4 wheel drive.. this has gone on and on so I ordered a battery disconnect switch so I could pop in and out if four-wheel drive when I wanted to..in my mind I'm now thinking it could simply be the dash mounted 4 wheel drive switch. Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated
great video...I must have a Canadian vehicle, when I attempted to follow your fix I found my actuator on the aft side of the axel ….yours appears to be on the forward side?....I am working on a '97 XLT Exp. & no matter what I did it is stuck in 4x4..i checked the vac. & it is working to the solenoids....if I manually move the actuator out (away from the diaphragm) it pulls it back in when the car is started, even with the solenoid vac. lines disconnected?.....would disconnecting the battery have any affect? I had it jacked up but did not rotate the wheels yet...tomorrow
Thank you first for you time in sharing info. I have a 99 f250 5.4 4x4 I just bought. All the vacuum lines were removed from the system and the ones down below by the actuator on the differential were melted. I bought new upper and lower lines for the differential and the actuators to the reservoirs and the vacuum source which I did not know where it was so I found vacuum in the added it but I'm not getting no 4x4 to the front still . When I got the truck the actuator was wired closed like all the way to the left After watching your video I seen that should be more like when you have vacuumed to both ports on the actuator I'm just kind of lost don't know what to do or what to look for diagrams or schematics for the vacuum
Thank You for the great video and information. Sadly it's not for my truck. I have a 2003 ford f150 4.2l xl automatic transmission with a manual shift lever for the 4 wd. I pull the lever down and the 4x4 light comes on. Still in 2 wheel drive The same thing on low range. Do you have a video on the 4x4 manual shift? Or any suggestions? Again Thank You.
My 1999 F-150 will only energize the 2WD solenoid. I tested both 2WD and 4WD solenoid control plugs with a voltmeter and both had 11.6 VDC with key on and engine off and both lost voltage with key off. However when I used my volt-ohm meter in ohms to look for the switched ground coming from the GEM module I only saw it coming in on the 2WD control plug with key on and engine off no matter what position my selector switch was in (2H, 4H or 4L). I also ran the engine with both solenoid control plugs connected and all vacuum lines disconnected and verified both vacuum inputs to both the 2WD and the 4WD solenoids had vacuum. I then plugged in the input vacuum lines only to each solenoid and left each output vacuum line disconnected so I could verify vacuum at each output port and I always had vacuum at the 2WD output port and never on the 4WD output port regardless of control selector switch position. I replaced the selector switch with a new one and the same thing happens. Seems to indicate a problem with my GEM module? Any advice as what to do or check next?
Great videos. What I've discovered is I have power on both actuator feeds. I have ground on one actuator but not the other. I flipped the switch and heard the motor turn then I checked to see if I had ground and I still have ground on the same one I had ground on. It didn't switch. I'm assuming already that I have a bad gem and I wired up a 2 throw switch directly to the 2 shift motor wires and I connected the 2 brown wires by the tcase. I left the square plug connector unplugged. Does the square plug control the shift actuators? Trying to figure out why the ground won't switch when I flip the switch
Awesome write up, helped me not throw unneeded parts at my beater truck. Fixed my 4x4 for under $15. Now if i could find a easy fix to stop the leaky fuel tank.
I just finished your video. Thanks for taking the time to make it. I have reviewed everything you pointed out in the video. It's all working correctly but my 4x4 still isn't engaging. What's my next step?
Yes definitely an awesome channel and video. My 2001 just started not going into 4x4 today. Havent had a chance to look at it yet but the light is not turning on and i dont hear the Tcase motor actuator engage. I do hear the relays clicking behind the dash though
How do I troubleshoot the dash switch? I can hear a very light click coming from the left side of dash, but no dash light or activation. My problem is very intermittent. Works fine, then often won't come on. Other times I can't get it back to 2WD. 2000 F150. EXCELLENT VIDEO!
Hi Makuloco. I was viewing your video 1997-2004 Ford F150 4X4 Inoperative In Depth Diagnosis I own a 2003 F150 4x4 and its stuck in LOW RANGE.. I found 3 things: 1.-Cant hear the clicks when changing from 4L to 4H to 2H. 2.-Break green vacuum hose that goes from 4x4 solenoid to the actuator 3.-When selecting 2H the 4x4 solenoid (left side) still getting ground from GEM.. How can I know if there is a problem in the GEM or in the 4x4 Switch? No blown fuses by the way..
Awesome information! I have a 98 f150 with the same system as the truck in the video. Im getting no lights on the dash to indicate thats in in 4wd but it is shifting like its in 4low. The odd thing is, the front axles are not engaging. I replaced the vacuum actuator and both Solenoids up by the battery with no change.
I found where the fork is, and that raised a new question. The Vacuum line that goes into the housing just above where the for is, when should I have vacuum on that line? When I tested vacume. I did not get vacuum on the hose side, and didn't test the nipple side.
Hi. Thanks for the video. I’ve did the checks you’ve talked about. The problem I’m seeing is that I don’t have a switch ground from either wiring harness.
Thanks for the video . I need to get the front vacuum actuator. The 2 wheel side works but 4 wheel does not. But was wondering how much vacuum there should. It all seems to work but just seems a little week. Vacuum would hold a piece of paper when I put up to end of hose, but pretty easy to pull away. Thanks
Great video- I needed this. My problem is that the switch is NOT working. It's lighting up from the little LED, and neither the 4x4 or Low Range light is coming on in the instrument cluster. Checked fuses in fuse box under dash and under hood- both good. Going to check my solenoids next- am I on the right path? Also going to check the switch with the ball bearing thing on my T-case and replace that. I bought the truck a few months ago and the 4x4 worked fine then, but also found out quickly that a mouse had gotten in and died.....hoping Mr. Squeaky wasn't the problem, haha.
Thanks for this video, I do have a question, I am getting the constant power to both solenoids but I am not getting the ground to either one, in 2wd or 4wd, what is my next step? Thanks again!
This video is extremely useful and I enjoyed learning how the system works. I have a 2004 F150 FX4 AND need more information. My 4 wheel drive engages okay but the 4 wheel light indicator will flash on for one second and turn off. When I first turn the ignition on the 4 wheel light is bright and clear. Please give me the repair solution.
He has very good and informative videos I traced the vacuum from the axle to the solenoids, I checked the electric good, vacuum good, four by four solenoid wasn't working I tapped on it with a screwdriver end and it started working has been working for over a hundred fifty thousand miles more I have 240 thousand miles. A good thing to do is exercise your 4 by 4 once a month or every other month it keeps the solenoid from drying out.
verry well done there, I found a faulty 2wd celenoid after only 8min off watching your video thx, the faulty one was stuck open so 4x4 would not engage, I really need a 4x4 for tomorow because a big snow storm is on the way so I just bypass the celenoid for now and block the vacum line with a screw until I have time to find and replace the parts. thx again
where the feedback sensor for the 4x4 LO and HI is located? when i select those positions I can hear a click but the LEDs on the dashboard doesn't come. so I think the sensor , if any, needs to be checked. your video is very helpful. thank you
Thankyou for information. I have a 2001 f150 that wants to shift front axle by it self without actually shifting in to 4x4 mostly when engine is off. Im going to test the actuator on front drive shaft and check the canister by battery. I've checked all vacuum lines and all good so this video is a good start. I have also change the shift motor because it also stop working and I can hear it working now with the relay clicking when I turn the switch. I can shift it into 4x4 but it will sometimes stay locked in even with switch set in 2 wheel with indicator light's off. I'll let you know what I find out. Thanks
So, using the original GEM, I tested the 2wd & 4wd vacuum/electric valves. Both had power as described in your video. But when I checked the ground side, the 4wd side gave me a light, with the switch on the dash in 2wd. the 2wd ground side would not light up. Interestingly, the 4x4 light is illuminated on the dash. All of this tells me the GEM is not working. I'm going to put the replacement GEM back in and repeat the procedure. Jim
Thanks for the video. Checking on my 4x4 a little later. I get the in dash GEM clicks and the 4x4 light comes on but no sound underneath and obviously the 4x4 doesn't work. Hoping it's a vacuum issue. (99 XLT)
Thanks for the videos, they are really helpful. Older post so not sure if you will be seeing this but since you were nice enough to offer help at the end, here goes. I get nothing at all when I turn the shift on the fly selector switch on my '03. Fuses are good (23 and 104). Selector switch has the correct resistance at all positions per the ford shop manual. NO clicking noise from the transfer case relay under the dash. The 2wd solenoid has constant power and ground, the 4wd solenoid has constant power but never gets ground when I turn the selector switch (which makes sense if the relay does not work). I went to my local pick-n-pay and pulled two relays and neither of them made a difference, so I assume not the relay. GEM module is not "wet" per other posts I have read. Any thoughts are appreciated!
Thanks for the explanation on the 1997 F150 4WD mechanism. My truck is a very early production model F150 4WD truck. My 1997 F150 4WD just started making a growling sound like it like it’s in 4WD when it’s in 2WD. I am able to engage 2WD to 4WD and back to 2WD just fine. This just started the other day when I drove it a few blocks to a meeting. When the meeting was over an hour later as I drove out of the parking lot it was growling like it was partially in 4WD. I think it could be a cracked vacuum reservoir. Thanks
Thanks for the video. I have a Ford 1998 Expedition XLT 4.6L with 2H/AWD/4H/4L knob. For this past week was the first time that I used 4L to get out of the snow in about 16 years. I thought I had it in 4L. Place in neutral and switched from 2H to 4L. Only the 4X4 light came on. The “Low” light did not. Drove some and everything was cool. Then, tried backing into my driveway, I heard this really loud noise like high pitched fast gringing. Put her in neutral, shifted back to 2H and threw her in reverse and drove backward for 20 ft. 4x4 light went off and all seemed ok. The truck has been my daily driver in 2H 99% of the time that I have had her. Doesn’t snow much or get terribly cold in Hampton roads va. Was at a stop light the next day. Put her in neutral, shifted from 2H to 4L and then drive, I felt the transmission switch up and heard it too. Drove the rest of the way home over ice and snow. Once I got home, I tried taking it out of 4L by going into neutral, switching back to 2H and shifting to reverse and driving 20 ft in reverse. This time it wouldn’t switch back to 2H. Seems that I’m stuck in 4L. I tried unplugging the battery and no go. 4x4 light went off but the transmission being in this mode now makes the truck feel sluggish. I’ve noticed that when switching the knob to 2H AWD or any other setting I do not hear the clicking relay in the dash like I did three days ago. The 4x4 light no longer turns on. AWD light does but I don’t feel the transfer case switching around. Right now, I hear a whine going down the road at 20-30 mph. Have not exceeded 35 mph and my overdrive light is flashing now. My coworker thinks I need to wait until it warms up and smack the electronic transfer case motor with a hard rubber mallet to see if it’ll shift back. Any thoughts on how I can resolve this. I have not driven it since the OD light started flashing because I have read that I can damage the transmission by driving on dry, smoothe roads in 4L. Bought the truck with 28k miles on it back in Feb 2000. Got 199k miles on the original engine and transmission on it. Never raced or towed anything with my truck. Not in the market to pay 60k on a new expedition now, and really cringing at the idea of shelling out $2k or more on transmission issue on a truck that may not be worth $1k. Any ideas? Appreciate any and all help. This is the coldest weather that truck has seen since I’ve had it temps ranging from 9° to 24°F for the past 5 days.
thanks, i have 98f150 and have the floor shifter is not totally disingaging, i heard a thumping noise by the left cv the light went on going down the road
Great video. On the actuator, besides the two vacuum lines you pointed out, there is a fat hose. I traced that hose up and it is not connected and near the two solenoids. About half way up at a connecting joint it goes into a smaller line that is about the size as the hoses in the solenoids. Is it intentionally not connected to anything?
This was VERY helpful. The only thing I could not do was jack it up and try the wheel spin. Everything is working as you say it should though, but still now front drive. Just the rear spins. What is this "Fork pads" and where is it located? Thank you
Great video and great information. Clear as day. One thing that it is unclear to me which I may be having issues with is I don’t hear the relay clicking on mine and have been battling to identify the actual relay. Could you tell me a part number and location of the relay? Thank you in advance.
Very helpful, I have no vacuum when connecting the lower hose, on the top hole on the 4 wheel drive, when I turn the switch nothing happens no sounds, nothing, I do have power at the solenoid.
Thanks for the great video. I followed your video and received the power to both terminals but have no ground. What should my next step be- I don’t hear any noise in the dash when I switch back and forth. Working on 97 f150
great video. i tried everything you showed and i still cant get my truck to go into 4x4. i am not getting a ground signal from the 4x4 connector. i swapped connector with one at a junk yard but still no ground. what do i do next?? please help
Great video. I have a 97 Expedition 4x4 which uses the same system. Where does the engine vacuum come from? From experience with Rotary engines (Cosmo and FD RX-7), old vacuum lines make diagnosis difficult. Thought it wise to give it new silicone lines throughout to rule out any heat related failures in the 4wd system
When I test the solenoid on the 4 by 4 side with a test light hooked to postive and setting test light on left side and going in truck and turning 4x4 switch to 4 hi or 4 low I get no light like step u did 9:12 in the video I get light on 4x2 side...also checked for and current at shift motor harness I have no light on any of the pins going in to truck ..I have current at dude 23.switch on the dash only current I have with parking light switch on is for the green dash light display nothing on the other 3 pins ...I have got the 4 wheel drive to before and when it did it worked great for about 3 days then back to dead .
Your gem module is not likely sending power to the 4x4 solenoid because the transfer case shift motor has found a fault. They are known for a general plate contact failure code. Once that is set there will be no attempt to go into 4wd.
Nice video and clear explanations. Would love to see you do a video of a 2004 Expedition 4 x 4 system, as it is much different than what you have shown here. I've replaced everything possible and still not engaging.
when applying 4x4, sometimes I can heard a loud crunch underneath in or out. Today I applied 4x4 low and drove approx 250 yards before I heard the loud crunch (it sound like someone driving a stranded and don't know how to change gears) and got 4x4 low, high use to work with the same loud crunch, now its not working, after seeing your video, seeing that the problem is intermittent, I will change the vacuum solenoids, and look for creaks in the black box behind the batteries. will let you know how it went
Thank you so much for your explanation of the system. I have a 2004 F150 Lariat and when I change the selector button of the 4x4 system I don’t sense anything happening. I’ll check everything you showed in the video to see if I resolve my problem. Thanks again sir.
Thank you for literally the best DIY mechanic videos on the Internet. I used your 4 part video to replace and time the 4.0L in my 2005 Explorer. I do not think I would have been successful without your videos. I have one question on this video. I ran all the tests on my 2000 F150 (4X4 will not engage) Everything works except when I get to the last test. When I raise the front end, the drivers side wheel will spin freely in 2 an 4 wheel drive. The passenger side binds in 2 and 4 wheel drive. (when in 2 or 4 and in park with the engine running). I can see the passenger side CV axel bind at the front differential. But what is weird is I can drive the truck. No issues with binding when in drive or reverse. One other thing to note: I had the passenger side ball joint snap this summer and had to replace the passenger CV axel shaft as well as the ball joints all around.
Excellent description and testing. I replaced my 4x4 select switch on my 2001 F150 Lariat but the solenoids still do not switch, the 4x4 indicator lamp is on no matter the switch position, I do not hear a relay engage when rotating the switch to 4x4. Both solenoids have 12v pos but the negative does not switch. Do you have any information how to test the GEM module to verify the switch is connected and the GEM is responding? Any help is appreciated.
Great Video. Thanks!! Really good to see the drawings and specs flow. It really makes sense when I can flow through the system when testing and operating. Awesome Bruddah!! I actually go through your videos about every week. I find really all of them helpful as heck info. Really great video library. Can't believe I missed this puppy. Oh well, it's a whole better late than never.
I'm having a problem with an 02' F250 that when the truck is running, I can shift the 4x4 shifter out of 2H but will get stuck in 4H and only go into 4L sometimes but will get stuck there as well. Shut the truck down and the shifter will shift smoothly in and out of all three positions. Tired rocking the truck back and forth from drive to reverse but that does not help. Did not matter if hubs were locked or free
Hello. I'm found the video of how to diagnose 97-03 4wd problem really helpful but I have one question regarding the constant current. When checking, what terminal of the battery were you hooked to when testing for constant current? When I tested mine, I was on the positive side but your video makes it seem you were on the negative side. If that's correct, why am I getting constant from the positive side? Gem bad???? Fuse panel bad?????
well this video helped out a bunch. i will run these tips tomorrow. also i do not know if it pertains to this but all the electric is working fuses are good however the O/D light blinks and blinks and will not stop and i do not know it it affects 4wd but my 4wd will not engage. any help would be appreciated thanks
Great video...now for a question: My son has a 2007 F-150 4x4. Recently he had to go down a muddy lane, so he used 4 wd Hi. When done, he took it out of 4 hi. He said that if felt like it still felt like it was in 4wd, but there was no light indicating so. The 4 Hi light does work, it comes on when you start the truck, but now, when engaging 4 hi, it does not come on. The 4 lo light comes on when using it. Do you think that there could be a problem with the shift motor, not engaging it in 4 hi, and thus, not sending the signal to the dash light, telling it that it is not in 4 hi? Or...could it be something as simple as the dash switch? Ok, the kid just now tells me that sometimes, not very often when using 4 hi in the snow, that the 4hi light has flickered. Just something else to confuse me, and you.
Great Video, Thanks!! When I test my solenoid plugs, I have the constant 12 volts on the right, which goes away if I turn the key off. However, on the left, I have 12 volts to both contacts regardless of the 4x4 selector position and also regardless of the key position. I mean both have power at the same time constantly. Is that a sign of a bad GEM or just a direct short to ground? I have no other electrical issues generally related to a bad GEM. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again!!!
This is a great video, explaining everything very well. My 2002 F150 seems to not disengage. I went ahead and replaced both of the solenoids, but the 4wd actuator still will not push back out to go back into 2wd. I'm guessing it is either the actuator that is bad, or I have a vacuum leak somewhere. I have not verified that that I have good vacuum. Do you have any advice on replacing that 4wd actuator?
+Todd Curtis I would make sure that when commanded from 4x4 to 2wd the vacuum motor actual moves and attempts to disengage. If not a manual test can verify the internals and a vacuum hand pump can also be used to test the front axle lock.
Thanks for the great information. Apparently I have other issues since I have voltage to both solenoids however no matter which position I turn the switch to I always have a ground on the 2 wheel solenoid. I also do not hear the transfer case shift motor running. It was bad last year and I changed it. The 4 wheel drive worked for a short time and now I don't have anything but 2 wheel operation. I would appreciate any diagrams or troubleshooting tips you could give me.
This video has been so helpful but after using the T/S you described I now need to figure out where to go next. My 4WD (2001 f-150, with electric on the fly switch 4wd) would not function so I replaced the Actuator first as it was pretty bad looking from salt. That didnt solve the problem so I replaced both solenoids and that didn't solve problem. I then did the T/S on the wiring that goes to the solenoids and found I'm not getting ground on the 4WD solenoid when its switched over to 4WD. I did check ground on 2WD and it is good when in 2WD and my tester stays lit (in 2WD wiring) even when I put switch to 4WD. Would you replace switch in truck or go to GEM? This problem is getting on my nerves!!! thanks
I got a 2003 explorer right now with intermittent getting stuck in 4x2, different setup then this and not familiar with this case, any common issues? I see it has a motor on the back and no codes. Your the best to ask!! Thanks!
Matt Marsicano The early explorers like your had a 4x4 module above the blower motor that would fail all the time even more so than the shift motor on the transfer case. The 4x4 module would be my bet. I would get codes read on the 4x4 module to make sure it is not setting any contact plate faults for the shift motor first.
+FordTechMakuloco yeah I scanned with my autel scanner and it has no codes, the customer complains of a bang when it finally gets out of 4x2 so I was thinking the shift motor but didn't know if a rebuild was gonna be needed
My particular problem on my 2003 Lariat SuperCrew is my 4x4 works pretty much just fine in dry conditions, only issue is it doesn’t always come out of 4Lo but I rarely if ever use 4Lo. However- in wet/icy/snowy conditions, my 4x4 will usually engage after a few minutes, then disengage, then re-engage, then disengage, etc. without me ever touching the switch. Switch stays in 4Hi, and it engages and disengages itself whenever. Usually disengages every single time I really need it. sometimes it wont even engage in the first place, or I have to let it sit for a few minutes then try to engage the 4wd. I live just outside of Denver in CO, which as I’m sure you can guess, we get quite a bit of snow and ice in winter, and not having 4x4 when I need it is a very big deal for me, and it isn’t very safe at all. I am thinking it is probably the Transfer Case Motor, but also don’t jut want to throw parts at it, because in my experience I just end up spending the money I was trying to save on more parts or just doing what I should’ve done in the first place, taking it into the shop. Anyway, if you could give me your opinion on what the problem could be or what you think is most likely the problem, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks dude.
There truly is nobody better at explaining these jobs better than you. Thank you for being so thorough and helping all of us who are just trying to keep our trucks running so we can continue to work.
man you saved my butt. stuck out in the mountains middle of no where with no four wheel drive. got on you tube and watched your video found the problem in the reservior and was able to patch the problem and get home
+richard lopez oh man that is awesome glad to hear it got you out of there
Man, a 7 year old video saves so much time... I appreciate the information you provide, ohms etc. Great to take a few minutes to see what your checking before going out to work on stuck 4 Low in the rain... Thank you sir!
A sincere thank you from all of us who love our Fords but need a little help now and again. You are legit bro!
Thanks so much! I have taught school and aviation instruction and you are an excellent teacher for Auto tech stuff. You are very clear, concise and easy to understand. You go slow enough for us who are just learning the system, even though you fully understand it. That is a sign of someone who KNOWS HOW TO INSTRUCT! Nicely done. Thanks for the help!
I got a 2002 F150 4x4,got stuck on a road during deer season,had to get pulled out n towed home,thanks to your video I was able to trouble shoot the problem myself,ended up finding my vacuum lines going down to my actuator wer broken n brittle,i'm very thankful I was able to find your video
you are a real credit to the TH-cam community. Thanks for your videos!
Thanks!
Hi FordTechMakuloco. Great video ! Did all the checks for the solenoids and no ground to the 4wd solenoid. All other electrics from GEM are functioning except that one and when you put the switch in 4wd it would click on the right side of the dash 4 times then do nothing, no light, no 4wd and it would only do it once for each power up of the key. Crawled underneath and the transfer case motor was pretty rusty looking and tried tapping it with a hammer but did no good. Bought a new Dorman motor and installed it, reset the computer by disconnecting the battery and the first time it did not work. Powered the key on and off a few times with the switch set to 4wd and wholla, all works fine on the jack stands now. Took it for a test ride after dinner and it works like new, both in high and low range. Thanks a million !!
This is the most thorough and useful auto maintenance video I've seen so far. Thank you, well done.
Guys like you are what really make youtube shine.
Great video. I have searched high and low for a comprehensive diagnostics video I could use to help me with my problems on my 1998 F150. I don't mind buying parts as long as I know it will fix the problem. With your help I think I can nail it down once and for all. I did find another good video someone did about cleaning the contacts on the selector switch which I will do first. Between the two I am confident I can finally get things working as they should. Good work man and thanks.
Howd it go for some reason mine isn't getting vaccume at the actuator but is getting vaccume at the 2 post
@@gameondude3617 Gosh it has been so long and I donated the truck a few years back. Mine ended up being the actuator. Once I replaced that it worked fine. Oddly I am now having similar problems with my 2010 F150. I love Ford trucks but their 4WD leaves something to be desired. Good luck man.
Thanks for the guide. I found out my 4WD solenoid was bad today following your steps and $26 later I had 4WD again.
Did your light on the dash have a steady 4x4 light?
@@Iamtoast73 Yeah. Once I turned the knob the light came on, but I had no 4x4.
@@wescat2 i am losing my mind it will not engage the front axle lol
@Michael Davenport Could be the 4WD actuator.
Thoroughly enjoy your efforts. I look forward to your videos daily. Not because I have any issues with my 06 Explorer but I'm always looking to learn. Your training abilities are awesome!
I sure appreciate your video on this. I wish I could have had internet connection on the mountain today to see this helpful information. I made it out with help from other guys. I could have diagnosed and fixed my problem on the trail with this video. Thank you.
thank you so much for this. I troubleshooted this perfectly. my next question, how do you troubleshoot the engagement of the actual transfer case when you shift into 4wd? thanks!
Weird he says he’ll get back to individual questions but no..
I was able to diagnose the problem I was having after watching this video. This was a great help, thank you.
How about the diagnostics for an F-250 Super Duty
Awesome video. Thx for the info. This was very thorough and easy to understand. I'm in the Obx and was attempting to go onto the "4x4 drive on beach". I turned the switch to 4H and nothing happened. Ended up having to get towed out of the sand. Got back to the house, watched your video and turns out my actuator was stuck. I manually depressed it a few times and now everything is working fine. I use TH-cam for a lot of the do-it yourself videos and I must say this is one of the best I've seen!!! Thx again.
I’m at home watching this video after getting my truck out of a sand pit 😂😂😂
My used F-150 4WD never worked, but now I know what that relay clicking from behind the steering wheel when I first started it was going on.
What was wrong with your truck? Mine has been doing the same thing.
Nobody ever responds@@MrJeepdude85
Great video. Thank you for sharing this. You just helped me diagnose and fix my 99 F150. When I hooked vacuum to just the bottom port of 4x4 solonoid, had no vacuum from top port. Changed 4x4 Solonoid ($25) and it works perfectly!
I did same thing and no vacuum from top port on 4x4 solenoid. But ohms tested good. Still replace it? Or could it be vacuum from the box next to battery
@@goalieman355 What was the diagnosis/fix?
Any codes present when this was your issue? I have 1 bad solenoid too, but other issues, 3 codes reporting shorts etc.
Man what an awesome video, well explained, well done, really appreciate it.
Love your videos, watched a few and fixed my four wheel drive yesterday. It was a vacuum issue, I had a clogged check valve right before the solenoid. 05 F-150 Lariat. Couldn't have fixed it myself without your awesome videos, keep up the good work!!
I just wanna say God bless you good job
Thank you I recently bought 2001 f150 that was sitting for a little bit,it's a good truck with high miles and gaskets seals and sensors is what I'm going through. Awesome intake video replacement you provided and that's what I'm doing next is oil filter coolant gasket and then making it goes into 4wd properly. Thank you again your knowledge and effort are well received, Thank you
another great video. well done. your starting to be my new favorite tech. thanks again.
Thanks!
@@FordTechMakuloco hey my 4x4 is stuck in 4l . With the switch on off . Got in my truck one day and it just went to 4x4l ?
Thank you so much for posting this video. Your step by step instruction was very helpful in allowing me to test system by system and ultimately repairing my 4Wd provblem for just $46 in parts! Happy New Year!
Good overall presentation. Very informative and helpful! :-)
Man, your videos are amazing. 10/10...I’ve learned A LOT about Fords over the past year or so thanks to you! Thank you FTM!! Next time I pass through Illinois I’d love to stop in and check out BSG Automotive!
I personally never had an issue with manual hubs and a lever. I would very much like to give the inventor of these yuppified systems a proper thrashing. I wouldn't mind it so much if was optional, but it's no any more on the 150's to the best of my knowledge.
Amen to that!!
How many thousands of people have had issues with other/different styles of 4x4 systems though? Really? Just because it's lever operated absolutely does not mean it's trouble free.
@@forrestputman7617 True, but most of us with these vacuum operated 4x4 shifters all hate them to fucking hell and back. I know my ex's 7.3 4x4 shifter worked amazingly well with 229,800 miles on it (she was batshit crazy, but had a badass truck)! I tried buying it off of her but her dad refused haha. Ended up with a 5.4 F150 and wish I got something bigger.
Great video! I followed the vacuum all the way down to the vacuum switch that moves the control arm that engages the front axles but the pin on vacuum switch was not moving. After moving the pin in and out manually about 20 times by prying on the control arm with a screw driver the mechanical was easier to move. The pin on the vacuum switch actually started moving in and out like it was designed to move. Lesson here for me is probably to engage 4 WD more often so the control arm does not get stuck from lack of use Thanks for your awesome video!
This was very clear And very informative very good job thank you
This guy, consistently, is the best Ford mechanic I've seen. ...Channel name a bit rough but once you find him - it's gold.
Could you send me that diagram. I'm having issues with my 2002. I turn the selector and I hear nothing . No clicking of any kind when I select 4h or 4L any help. Would be awsome. Thanks ahead of time. If you need my email or FB messenger let me know.
Did you ever resolve your problem. I have the same issue
I am also
....
No clue if you will see this comment on this old video. But I was trying to track down a vacuum issue for the last while. Today I was looking at those 4wd vaccum lines and there appears to be a blue line just open, not hooked to anything not capped, its in the same protective loom as the one that goes down to the passenger side hub. Any clue if this is normal? If not what line would it be...? I am pretty positive it is a dark blue line. Any help would be appreciated.
great video thanks for sharing :D
Bad ass video! Simple. Informative and straight to the point.
thanks my friend, your a big help. My problem is the acuator is going all the way in and out when i jack it up running (98f150 floor shifter) but going down the road it wants to creep to 4x4 and the light goes on and hear clunk in front pumkin area preceeded by a squeel. i took off the rubber boot and oiled it good bringing it in and out jacked up thinking it might be intermittent binding at the acuator
Thank You First of all! My problem starts with the 2 wheel solenoid Power on the positive and negative side and when the key is off still grounded on the negative while testing from the positive battery terminal. Also Power on the 4x4 positive terminal and no reading on the negative solenoid terminal regardless of key and 4x4 switch position. No light on the dash , no clicking etc. Thinking about replacing the gem module? great Video gives me confidence.respectfully John
Without a doubt best done how-to-diagnose vid I've seen on any part/system
Your video was awesome thank you so much..I have a 97 expedition EB. I can get her into 4x4 in all 3 modes but after 10min or so the indicator light will start flashing between 4 x 4 and 4AWD then eventually stick in 4-wheel drive and nothing will happen when I move the switch. The only way I can get it out of 4 wheel drive is to disconnect the battery. I went around for a few months in 2 wheel drive not needing four wheel drive but when I went to engage it it would not.. thought I would start where I left off so I disconnected the battery and low and behold it would then go into 4 wheel drive.. this has gone on and on so I ordered a battery disconnect switch so I could pop in and out if four-wheel drive when I wanted to..in my mind I'm now thinking it could simply be the dash mounted 4 wheel drive switch. Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated
great video...I must have a Canadian vehicle, when I attempted to follow your fix I found my actuator on the aft side of the axel ….yours appears to be on the forward side?....I am working on a '97 XLT Exp. & no matter what I did it is stuck in 4x4..i checked the vac. & it is working to the solenoids....if I manually move the actuator out (away from the diaphragm) it pulls it back in when the car is started, even with the solenoid vac. lines disconnected?.....would disconnecting the battery have any affect? I had it jacked up but did not rotate the wheels yet...tomorrow
by far the best 4x4 info for 97-03 f150 4x4, nice job young man.
The actuator seams to lock but doesn't lock in
I went back thru your component test procedure and discovered my 4WD solenoid is defective. Thanks for sharing your knowledge on Ford products.
Thank you first for you time in sharing info. I have a 99 f250 5.4 4x4 I just bought. All the vacuum lines were removed from the system and the ones down below by the actuator on the differential were melted. I bought new upper and lower lines for the differential and the actuators to the reservoirs and the vacuum source which I did not know where it was so I found vacuum in the added it but I'm not getting no 4x4 to the front still . When I got the truck the actuator was wired closed like all the way to the left After watching your video I seen that should be more like when you have vacuumed to both ports on the actuator I'm just kind of lost don't know what to do or what to look for diagrams or schematics for the vacuum
Best video I have seen on 4wd.
Thank You for the great video and information. Sadly it's not for my truck. I have a 2003 ford f150 4.2l xl automatic transmission with a manual shift lever for the 4 wd. I pull the lever down and the 4x4 light comes on. Still in 2 wheel drive The same thing on low range. Do you have a video on the 4x4 manual shift? Or any suggestions? Again Thank You.
My 1999 F-150 will only energize the 2WD solenoid. I tested both 2WD and 4WD solenoid control plugs with a voltmeter and both had 11.6 VDC with key on and engine off and both lost voltage with key off. However when I used my volt-ohm meter in ohms to look for the switched ground coming from the GEM module I only saw it coming in on the 2WD control plug with key on and engine off no matter what position my selector switch was in (2H, 4H or 4L). I also ran the engine with both solenoid control plugs connected and all vacuum lines disconnected and verified both vacuum inputs to both the 2WD and the 4WD solenoids had vacuum. I then plugged in the input vacuum lines only to each solenoid and left each output vacuum line disconnected so I could verify vacuum at each output port and I always had vacuum at the 2WD output port and never on the 4WD output port regardless of control selector switch position.
I replaced the selector switch with a new one and the same thing happens. Seems to indicate a problem with my GEM module? Any advice as what to do or check next?
Did you ever solve this?
Great videos. What I've discovered is I have power on both actuator feeds. I have ground on one actuator but not the other. I flipped the switch and heard the motor turn then I checked to see if I had ground and I still have ground on the same one I had ground on. It didn't switch. I'm assuming already that I have a bad gem and I wired up a 2 throw switch directly to the 2 shift motor wires and I connected the 2 brown wires by the tcase. I left the square plug connector unplugged. Does the square plug control the shift actuators? Trying to figure out why the ground won't switch when I flip the switch
Awesome write up, helped me not throw unneeded parts at my beater truck. Fixed my 4x4 for under $15. Now if i could find a easy fix to stop the leaky fuel tank.
What did you need?
I just finished your video. Thanks for taking the time to make it. I have reviewed everything you pointed out in the video. It's all working correctly but my 4x4 still isn't engaging. What's my next step?
It ended up being the shift fork. Thanks again for the video.
Yes definitely an awesome channel and video.
My 2001 just started not going into 4x4 today. Havent had a chance to look at it yet but the light is not turning on and i dont hear the Tcase motor actuator engage.
I do hear the relays clicking behind the dash though
How do I troubleshoot the dash switch? I can hear a very light click coming from the left side of dash, but no dash light or activation. My problem is very intermittent. Works fine, then often won't come on. Other times I can't get it back to 2WD.
2000 F150. EXCELLENT VIDEO!
Hi Makuloco. I was viewing your video 1997-2004 Ford F150 4X4 Inoperative In Depth Diagnosis
I own a 2003 F150 4x4 and its stuck in LOW RANGE.. I found 3 things:
1.-Cant hear the clicks when changing from 4L to 4H to 2H.
2.-Break green vacuum hose that goes from 4x4 solenoid to the actuator
3.-When selecting 2H the 4x4 solenoid (left side) still getting ground from GEM..
How can I know if there is a problem in the GEM or in the 4x4 Switch?
No blown fuses by the way..
Awesome information! I have a 98 f150 with the same system as the truck in the video. Im getting no lights on the dash to indicate thats in in 4wd but it is shifting like its in 4low. The odd thing is, the front axles are not engaging. I replaced the vacuum actuator and both Solenoids up by the battery with no change.
I found where the fork is, and that raised a new question. The Vacuum line that goes into the housing just above where the for is, when should I have vacuum on that line? When I tested vacume. I did not get vacuum on the hose side, and didn't test the nipple side.
Hi. Thanks for the video. I’ve did the checks you’ve talked about. The problem I’m seeing is that I don’t have a switch ground from either wiring harness.
Thanks for the video . I need to get the front vacuum actuator. The 2 wheel side works but 4 wheel does not. But was wondering how much vacuum there should. It all seems to work but just seems a little week. Vacuum would hold a piece of paper when I put up to end of hose, but pretty easy to pull away. Thanks
This is awesome!! Figured out what was wrong with my 4wd. Very informative and easy to understand. Thanks
Great video- I needed this. My problem is that the switch is NOT working. It's lighting up from the little LED, and neither the 4x4 or Low Range light is coming on in the instrument cluster. Checked fuses in fuse box under dash and under hood- both good. Going to check my solenoids next- am I on the right path? Also going to check the switch with the ball bearing thing on my T-case and replace that. I bought the truck a few months ago and the 4x4 worked fine then, but also found out quickly that a mouse had gotten in and died.....hoping Mr. Squeaky wasn't the problem, haha.
Thanks for this video, I do have a question, I am getting the constant power to both solenoids but I am not getting the ground to either one, in 2wd or 4wd, what is my next step? Thanks again!
This video is extremely useful and I enjoyed learning how the system works. I have a 2004 F150 FX4 AND need more information. My 4 wheel drive engages okay but the 4 wheel light indicator will flash on for one second and turn off. When I first turn the ignition on the 4 wheel light is bright and clear. Please give me the repair solution.
He has very good and informative videos I traced the vacuum from the axle to the solenoids, I checked the electric good, vacuum good, four by four solenoid wasn't working I tapped on it with a screwdriver end and it started working has been working for over a hundred fifty thousand miles more I have 240 thousand miles. A good thing to do is exercise your 4 by 4 once a month or every other month it keeps the solenoid from drying out.
verry well done there, I found a faulty 2wd celenoid after only 8min off watching your video thx, the faulty one was stuck open so 4x4 would not engage, I really need a 4x4 for tomorow because a big snow storm is on the way so I just bypass the celenoid for now and block the vacum line with a screw until I have time to find and replace the parts. thx again
where the feedback sensor for the 4x4 LO and HI is located? when i select those positions I can hear a click but the LEDs on the dashboard doesn't come. so I think the sensor , if any, needs to be checked. your video is very helpful. thank you
Wow. I'm amazed that every video you make is so clearly explained and helpful with good audio/video quality
Thankyou for information. I have a 2001 f150 that wants to shift front axle by it self without actually shifting in to 4x4 mostly when engine is off. Im going to test the actuator on front drive shaft and check the canister by battery. I've checked all vacuum lines and all good so this video is a good start. I have also change the shift motor because it also stop working and I can hear it working now with the relay clicking when I turn the switch. I can shift it into 4x4 but it will sometimes stay locked in even with switch set in 2 wheel with indicator light's off. I'll let you know what I find out. Thanks
So, using the original GEM, I tested the 2wd & 4wd vacuum/electric valves. Both had power as described in your video. But when I checked the ground side, the 4wd side gave me a light, with the switch on the dash in 2wd. the 2wd ground side would not light up. Interestingly, the 4x4 light is illuminated on the dash. All of this tells me the GEM is not working. I'm going to put the replacement GEM back in and repeat the procedure.
Jim
Thanks for the video. Checking on my 4x4 a little later. I get the in dash GEM clicks and the 4x4 light comes on but no sound underneath and obviously the 4x4 doesn't work. Hoping it's a vacuum issue. (99 XLT)
Thanks for the videos, they are really helpful. Older post so not sure if you will be seeing this but since you were nice enough to offer help at the end, here goes. I get nothing at all when I turn the shift on the fly selector switch on my '03. Fuses are good (23 and 104). Selector switch has the correct resistance at all positions per the ford shop manual. NO clicking noise from the transfer case relay under the dash. The 2wd solenoid has constant power and ground, the 4wd solenoid has constant power but never gets ground when I turn the selector switch (which makes sense if the relay does not work). I went to my local pick-n-pay and pulled two relays and neither of them made a difference, so I assume not the relay. GEM module is not "wet" per other posts I have read. Any thoughts are appreciated!
Thanks for the explanation on the 1997 F150 4WD mechanism. My truck is a very early production model F150 4WD truck. My 1997 F150 4WD just started making a growling sound like it like it’s in 4WD when it’s in 2WD. I am able to engage 2WD to 4WD and back to 2WD just fine. This just started the other day when I drove it a few blocks to a meeting. When the meeting was over an hour later as I drove out of the parking lot it was growling like it was partially in 4WD. I think it could be a cracked vacuum reservoir. Thanks
Thanks for the video. I have a Ford 1998 Expedition XLT 4.6L with 2H/AWD/4H/4L knob. For this past week was the first time that I used 4L to get out of the snow in about 16 years. I thought I had it in 4L. Place in neutral and switched from 2H to 4L. Only the 4X4 light came on. The “Low” light did not. Drove some and everything was cool. Then, tried backing into my driveway, I heard this really loud noise like high pitched fast gringing. Put her in neutral, shifted back to 2H and threw her in reverse and drove backward for 20 ft. 4x4 light went off and all seemed ok. The truck has been my daily driver in 2H 99% of the time that I have had her. Doesn’t snow much or get terribly cold in Hampton roads va. Was at a stop light the next day. Put her in neutral, shifted from 2H to 4L and then drive, I felt the transmission switch up and heard it too. Drove the rest of the way home over ice and snow. Once I got home, I tried taking it out of 4L by going into neutral, switching back to 2H and shifting to reverse and driving 20 ft in reverse. This time it wouldn’t switch back to 2H. Seems that I’m stuck in 4L. I tried unplugging the battery and no go. 4x4 light went off but the transmission being in this mode now makes the truck feel sluggish. I’ve noticed that when switching the knob to 2H AWD or any other setting I do not hear the clicking relay in the dash like I did three days ago. The 4x4 light no longer turns on. AWD light does but I don’t feel the transfer case switching around. Right now, I hear a whine going down the road at 20-30 mph. Have not exceeded 35 mph and my overdrive light is flashing now. My coworker thinks I need to wait until it warms up and smack the electronic transfer case motor with a hard rubber mallet to see if it’ll shift back. Any thoughts on how I can resolve this. I have not driven it since the OD light started flashing because I have read that I can damage the transmission by driving on dry, smoothe roads in 4L. Bought the truck with 28k miles on it back in Feb 2000. Got 199k miles on the original engine and transmission on it. Never raced or towed anything with my truck. Not in the market to pay 60k on a new expedition now, and really cringing at the idea of shelling out $2k or more on transmission issue on a truck that may not be worth $1k. Any ideas? Appreciate any and all help. This is the coldest weather that truck has seen since I’ve had it temps ranging from 9° to 24°F for the past 5 days.
thanks, i have 98f150 and have the floor shifter is not totally disingaging, i heard a thumping noise by the left cv the light went on going down the road
Great video. On the actuator, besides the two vacuum lines you pointed out, there is a fat hose. I traced that hose up and it is not connected and near the two solenoids. About half way up at a connecting joint it goes into a smaller line that is about the size as the hoses in the solenoids. Is it intentionally not connected to anything?
This was VERY helpful. The only thing I could not do was jack it up and try the wheel spin. Everything is working as you say it should though, but still now front drive. Just the rear spins. What is this "Fork pads" and where is it located? Thank you
Great video and great information. Clear as day. One thing that it is unclear to me which I may be having issues with is I don’t hear the relay clicking on mine and have been battling to identify the actual relay. Could you tell me a part number and location of the relay? Thank you in advance.
Thanks!
Very helpful, I have no vacuum when connecting the lower hose, on the top hole on the 4 wheel drive, when I turn the switch nothing happens no sounds, nothing, I do have power at the solenoid.
Thanks for the great video. I followed your video and received the power to both terminals but have no ground. What should my next step be- I don’t hear any noise in the dash when I switch back and forth.
Working on 97 f150
great video. i tried everything you showed and i still cant get my truck to go into 4x4. i am not getting a ground signal from the 4x4 connector. i swapped connector with one at a junk yard but still no ground. what do i do next?? please help
Great video. I have a 97 Expedition 4x4 which uses the same system. Where does the engine vacuum come from? From experience with Rotary engines (Cosmo and FD RX-7), old vacuum lines make diagnosis difficult. Thought it wise to give it new silicone lines throughout to rule out any heat related failures in the 4wd system
When I test the solenoid on the 4 by 4 side with a test light hooked to postive and setting test light on left side and going in truck and turning 4x4 switch to 4 hi or 4 low I get no light like step u did 9:12 in the video I get light on 4x2 side...also checked for and current at shift motor harness I have no light on any of the pins going in to truck ..I have current at dude 23.switch on the dash only current I have with parking light switch on is for the green dash light display nothing on the other 3 pins ...I have got the 4 wheel drive to before and when it did it worked great for about 3 days then back to dead .
Your gem module is not likely sending power to the 4x4 solenoid because the transfer case shift motor has found a fault. They are known for a general plate contact failure code. Once that is set there will be no attempt to go into 4wd.
Nice video and clear explanations. Would love to see you do a video of a 2004 Expedition 4 x 4 system, as it is much different than what you have shown here. I've replaced everything possible and still not engaging.
when applying 4x4, sometimes I can heard a loud crunch underneath in or out. Today I applied 4x4 low and drove approx 250 yards before I heard the loud crunch (it sound like someone driving a stranded and don't know how to change gears) and got 4x4 low, high use to work with the same loud crunch, now its not working, after seeing your video, seeing that the problem is intermittent, I will change the vacuum solenoids, and look for creaks in the black box behind the batteries.
will let you know how it went
Thank you so much for your explanation of the system. I have a 2004 F150 Lariat and when I change the selector button of the 4x4 system I don’t sense anything happening. I’ll check everything you showed in the video to see if I resolve my problem. Thanks again sir.
Thank you for literally the best DIY mechanic videos on the Internet. I used your 4 part video to replace and time the 4.0L in my 2005 Explorer. I do not think I would have been successful without your videos.
I have one question on this video. I ran all the tests on my 2000 F150 (4X4 will not engage) Everything works except when I get to the last test. When I raise the front end, the drivers side wheel will spin freely in 2 an 4 wheel drive. The passenger side binds in 2 and 4 wheel drive. (when in 2 or 4 and in park with the engine running). I can see the passenger side CV axel bind at the front differential. But what is weird is I can drive the truck. No issues with binding when in drive or reverse. One other thing to note: I had the passenger side ball joint snap this summer and had to replace the passenger CV axel shaft as well as the ball joints all around.
Excellent description and testing. I replaced my 4x4 select switch on my 2001 F150 Lariat but the solenoids still do not switch, the 4x4 indicator lamp is on no matter the switch position, I do not hear a relay engage when rotating the switch to 4x4. Both solenoids have 12v pos but the negative does not switch. Do you have any information how to test the GEM module to verify the switch is connected and the GEM is responding? Any help is appreciated.
Great Video. Thanks!! Really good to see the drawings and specs flow. It really makes sense when I can flow through the system when testing and operating. Awesome Bruddah!! I actually go through your videos about every week. I find really all of them helpful as heck info. Really great video library. Can't believe I missed this puppy. Oh well, it's a whole better late than never.
I have power in both solenoid butI haven't ground ,what can I do?
NICE!!!! My 01 4x4 has issues....the 4x4 light comes on, but will not engage. I can get low 4x4 to engage....sometimes. where would I start looking??
I'm having a problem with an 02' F250 that when the truck is running, I can shift the 4x4 shifter out of 2H but will get stuck in 4H and only go into 4L sometimes but will get stuck there as well. Shut the truck down and the shifter will shift smoothly in and out of all three positions. Tired rocking the truck back and forth from drive to reverse but that does not help. Did not matter if hubs were locked or free
Excellent video! Simple and easy to follow and understand. Now I have to go to the truck and try these tests! Thank you...
Hello. I'm found the video of how to diagnose 97-03 4wd problem really helpful but I have one question regarding the constant current. When checking, what terminal of the battery were you hooked to when testing for constant current? When I tested mine, I was on the positive side but your video makes it seem you were on the negative side. If that's correct, why am I getting constant from the positive side? Gem bad???? Fuse panel bad?????
well this video helped out a bunch. i will run these tips tomorrow. also i do not know if it pertains to this but all the electric is working fuses are good however the O/D light blinks and blinks and will not stop and i do not know it it affects 4wd but my 4wd will not engage. any help would be appreciated thanks
Great video...now for a question: My son has a 2007 F-150 4x4. Recently he had to go down a muddy lane, so he used 4 wd Hi. When done, he took it out of 4 hi. He said that if felt like it still felt like it was in 4wd, but there was no light indicating so. The 4 Hi light does work, it comes on when you start the truck, but now, when engaging 4 hi, it does not come on. The 4 lo light comes on when using it. Do you think that there could be a problem with the shift motor, not engaging it in 4 hi, and thus, not sending the signal to the dash light, telling it that it is not in 4 hi? Or...could it be something as simple as the dash switch?
Ok, the kid just now tells me that sometimes, not very often when using 4 hi in the snow, that the 4hi light has flickered. Just something else to confuse me, and you.
Great Video, Thanks!! When I test my solenoid plugs, I have the constant 12 volts on the right, which goes away if I turn the key off. However, on the left, I have 12 volts to both contacts regardless of the 4x4 selector position and also regardless of the key position. I mean both have power at the same time constantly. Is that a sign of a bad GEM or just a direct short to ground? I have no other electrical issues generally related to a bad GEM. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again!!!
Did you ever get to fix this issue of having constant 12 volts regardless of selector switch
This is a great video, explaining everything very well. My 2002 F150 seems to not disengage. I went ahead and replaced both of the solenoids, but the 4wd actuator still will not push back out to go back into 2wd. I'm guessing it is either the actuator that is bad, or I have a vacuum leak somewhere. I have not verified that that I have good vacuum. Do you have any advice on replacing that 4wd actuator?
+Todd Curtis I would make sure that when commanded from 4x4 to 2wd the vacuum motor actual moves and attempts to disengage. If not a manual test can verify the internals and a vacuum hand pump can also be used to test the front axle lock.
Thanks for the great information. Apparently I have other issues since I have voltage to both solenoids however no matter which position I turn the switch to I always have a ground on the 2 wheel solenoid. I also do not hear the transfer case shift motor running. It was bad last year and I changed it. The 4 wheel drive worked for a short time and now I don't have anything but 2 wheel operation. I would appreciate any diagrams or troubleshooting tips you could give me.
This video has been so helpful but after using the T/S you described I now need to figure out where to go next. My 4WD (2001 f-150, with electric on the fly switch 4wd) would not function so I replaced the Actuator first as it was pretty bad looking from salt. That didnt solve the problem so I replaced both solenoids and that didn't solve problem. I then did the T/S on the wiring that goes to the solenoids and found I'm not getting ground on the 4WD solenoid when its switched over to 4WD. I did check ground on 2WD and it is good when in 2WD and my tester stays lit (in 2WD wiring) even when I put switch to 4WD. Would you replace switch in truck or go to GEM? This problem is getting on my nerves!!! thanks
Im having the same issue, what ended up being wrong?
I got a 2003 explorer right now with intermittent getting stuck in 4x2, different setup then this and not familiar with this case, any common issues? I see it has a motor on the back and no codes. Your the best to ask!! Thanks!
Matt Marsicano The early explorers like your had a 4x4 module above the blower motor that would fail all the time even more so than the shift motor on the transfer case. The 4x4 module would be my bet. I would get codes read on the 4x4 module to make sure it is not setting any contact plate faults for the shift motor first.
+FordTechMakuloco yeah I scanned with my autel scanner and it has no codes, the customer complains of a bang when it finally gets out of 4x2 so I was thinking the shift motor but didn't know if a rebuild was gonna be needed
My particular problem on my 2003 Lariat SuperCrew is my 4x4 works pretty much just fine in dry conditions, only issue is it doesn’t always come out of 4Lo but I rarely if ever use 4Lo. However- in wet/icy/snowy conditions, my 4x4 will usually engage after a few minutes, then disengage, then re-engage, then disengage, etc. without me ever touching the switch. Switch stays in 4Hi, and it engages and disengages itself whenever. Usually disengages every single time I really need it. sometimes it wont even engage in the first place, or I have to let it sit for a few minutes then try to engage the 4wd. I live just outside of Denver in CO, which as I’m sure you can guess, we get quite a bit of snow and ice in winter, and not having 4x4 when I need it is a very big deal for me, and it isn’t very safe at all. I am thinking it is probably the Transfer Case Motor, but also don’t jut want to throw parts at it, because in my experience I just end up spending the money I was trying to save on more parts or just doing what I should’ve done in the first place, taking it into the shop. Anyway, if you could give me your opinion on what the problem could be or what you think is most likely the problem, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks dude.