Fix or Repair Daily? Part 2 ('97 F150 Intermittent NO 4WD) Independence Day Special!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ส.ค. 2024
- As I suspected, we're not done with this rusty trusty F150 just yet.
In Part 1 we took care of the major parasitic draw, turn signals, blower motor, and 4WD system.
However, the owner says that the 4x4 has been acting up intermittently for a couple years, so there is ANOTHER ISSUE.
The code stored is P1838 - Transfer Case Shift Motor Circuit Fault
Time to fire the PARTS CANNON? :)
Also it's running rough, and he wants to fix the A/C clutch that we diagnosed in Part 1.
Let's dive into the theory and operation of the ESOF (Electronic Shift on the Fly) 4WD system and determine why the Transfer Case refuses to shift at times.
TS100 SOLDERING IRON:
www.amazon.com...
Enjoy the cool case study!
Ivan
You are one of few if only guy who would have solved four plus problems "no parts required". Good job. "The student has become the master."
Retired elevator mechanic here, I always had a sharp #2 pencil with a clean eraser for pesky intermittent relay issues. The lead point would jump a failed contact and the eraser end would clean dirty contacts that were accessible. Great stuff Ivan, Unbelievable diagnostic skills. You make us mere mortals jealous.
Cool TIP with the pencil! 😁
Aaaahhhh, a cup of coffee and Ivan’s video equals a great start to our 4th.
that is so sad
Good find Ivan! 90% of the shops would have replaced the transfer case motor. I remember hearing stories of dealerships loading the parts cannon on these 4wd systems only to have it come back. Too many people replace parts based on codes without testing. Great job!
I just posted a comment above about a 96 Explorer. Ford actually told me to replaces the Tcase motor. I went for a oil change and they did a "complimentary check." They gave me a $500 estimate :lol:.
I don't use 4low much but I did some diagnostic and found a corroded pigtail under the hood, the GEM could never see neutral from the transmission switch, which has a special pin for 4wd. So the motor would never move. I heard clicking though. It is the same system as that F150, it just has an auto mode in the transfer case. Forscan gives the same pids as his verus.
Shops do the easiest solution....remove and replace....whether it resolves your problem is not of concern....profit is all they care about....oh you need another part + labour ? ( after the first or second part made no repair ) Ca-ching( cash register sound )
Actual confirmation of your problem is lacking nowadays...
Why a " No Start " issue
Means they replaced...
Battery
Starter
Alternator
Etc...
Rarely it is all of those things wrong
Sometimes it was a bad wire they found after 3 parts changed...
Do they tell you??
Or replace your Good parts??
And not charge you for labour?
Due to bad diagnosis??
Hell No
They fully bill you and laugh as you drive away!!
@@garymallard4699: A "NO CRANK" was towed to us after being at 2 other shops. First shop did battery and starter; no fix. Second shop did battery cables; no fix. Then they tried to sell flywheel job to which customer declined. It was towed to us. In 10 minutes, we discovered one cylinder full of water due to blown head gasket. DOH! Customer had to pay both the other shops to get car released, didn't take "old parts" (by the time customer called first 2 shops to complain, the starter & battery were already returned to parts store as cores, and battery cables were trashed and gone). It infuriates me just writing about this. The customer got screwed out of about $600 P&L, and gave up trying to get refund. THAT'S WHY THESE SHOPS KEEP GETTING AWAY WITH THIS CRAP -- BECAUSE THE CUSTOMERS DON'T FOLLOW THROUGH AND HOLD THEIR FEET TO THE FIRE.
@@garymallard4699 thats why they drive hundreds of miles to ivan
I love it when you nerd out. Excellent work and description of issues 👏 👍
Your video was a god send for me!! I have 4 gen 1 Expeditions. 3 are 4x4 and one is my rwd tow vehicle. All 3 of the 4x4's had intermittent or non-functional 4x4. All three were this exact problem. I pulled the dash apart to make it easier to get to and remove. Thanks so very much for this video. I was about to sell my trucks and get something manual. Not anymore! I'm totally happy now!
Hey, you blew the dust off the old verus for this one... These kind of videos are your best... Your GM truck IP cluster repair video saved me over $200... Hope you can relax and enjoy the 4th today....
How could I find this Chevy IP cluster video? I. There a date or 🔗 link to it? My 2000 Silverado IP Cluster is intermittent
@@MrDeleoco Here's the link to Ivan's video... I changed all my stepper motors and lights on my 2004 2500HD... Should be the same as your 2000... th-cam.com/video/5tOiEKjCJd4/w-d-xo.html
@@steveo6631 Thank you!👍
What I like about my 4wd the best is a manual floor shifter & manual
locking hubs. No computer module, electronic relays, no vacuum actuated
garbage, Just plain & simple! Great diags & fixes Ivan!
they keep adding crap for repair business
They never should have changed the old, reliable, manual locking hubs. I mean, if you are too whimpy to get out and lock the hubs, you got no business owning a pickup. 😅😅😅
Aahhhhaaaa, the early F150 has been a money maker for many of us.
Nice work!
We love it when you "nerd out". Nice job Ivan! Happy 4th.
I love my 96 F150. No issues with the old girl, just regular maintenance. 195,000 Kms (roughly 120,000 ml). 5.0 l, 4 spd auto. Full size box. I laugh everyday when I see people spending a small mortgage on the new trucks. And look a the problems they have with them. Love watching your videos. Learn something every time. Just hope my memory bank will recall it if/when I come across the same issue.
New subscriber here. Had the same issue with my 02 F150. Was going to go with the solenoid until I came across this episode. Wala! Found solder cracked 2 places repaired. Works 100% of the time. I like you approach to the issues. Keep it up!
Heh… someone actually “fixing” something. Love it!
You’re like an automotive neurosurgeon.
Fixing a problem is eliminating the cause of the problem and the symptom. Ivan is very good at diagnosis of immediate causes of symptoms but stops short of addressing the initial cause. eg. Identifying that wires have been chewed through by rodents is not addressed with electrical tape, but rodent repellent tape.
Ivan, king of PA diagnostics and defeater of the Parts Cannon Army since 2005! LONG LIVE IVAN THE GREAT! Let us pop fireworks today in his honor!!! Love ya man, keep up the good work.
My favorite! "Nerding out".... I totally enjoy that. You're 1 of the few channels I stop to watch if I happen to be listening to YT while doing things. I don't always comment, unfortunately.
I LOVE that iron. I just recently acquired the variety of tips set. So well worth it. It was my go to for mobile.... but now I use it at home too. Lol
Happy 4th to you and Amanda! 🥰🤗🤗🎉🎆✨🎇🎊🇺🇸
Thanks so much Cuba! Happy 4th of July to you too! 🙂
If you have the work volume, it's a great tool for professional bench work, but overkill for the causal DIYer doing occasional electro-mechanical repair.
@@psdaengr911 well, I thought it was quite reasonable in price, even for the casual DIYer... just for the temp control alone makes it worth it. It's badass! Lol I do understand what you're saying though.
Great thinking course. Customer must have been really happy. Thanks I should say a stop and thinking course.
My '99 F150 4x4 was intermittent, twice failing to engage when I really needed it. I went straight to the relay and saw cracked solder on the circuit board. After re-soldering it worked 100%! Thanks for saving me a bunch shop time and money trouble shooting and repairing.
You bet!
I've been working on cars since I was 15, I'm now going on 75 and you make me look like I took the little bus LOL
I know this video is old but I have been chasing my 4x4 issue for a while now and had ruled out the usual suspects of the vacuum relays, switch and transfer case motor. I knew there was a relay somewhere behind the dash but wasn't sure where. I watched your video, found the relay, re-soldered two broken joints on it and Boom, my 4WD is back in action. Thank you. You have a new subscriber here for sure.
Good detective work with satisfying fix. Hope you have a great 4th.
That’s the biggest complaint that I’ve heard from folks that like to keep cars as long as possible. Electrical issues. If wiring harnesses weren’t so expensive you could just replace them all at some point. 😂
You only need to fix what is wrong...not everything in a harness..besides they would be junk if new...better to repair your original harness...even if you pull it out and go through it completely...cleaning and fixing anything that looks suspect or damaged...
WOW!!! Amazing bit of work! I've not checked that particular relay. Primarily because I couldn't find that relay. Headed out to the driveway with multimeter in hand now. Thank You Sir!!
OUTSTANDING work! A true professional!
Good luck! It was not easy to find haha
Well, I wasn't able to get to it today. I forgot the wife was taking it to town. So hopefully tomorrow.
Ivan, I've got to be honest with you. You've got to be one of the best mechanics I've seen in a long time. I know that it's a thankless job from time to time. So I just want to take a sec to let you know just how impressed I am. Which I know doesn't mean all that much. I'm a nobody. No I'm not some crazy Internet keyboard worrier or simply a crazy Internet nut job. I'm a 50 year old mechanic that was forced into retirement due to an injury. So for whatever it's worth. It's been a very long time since I've seen someone at your level. It's obvious to me that your passionate about your work, you have a ton of pride in what you do, and you enjoy it. On top of all that your very very good at what you do and do it at a very professional level. Hopefully you've heard all that before. If not, well there it is. I'm not trying to blow smoke up your backside or anything like that. I just felt the need to tell you what I see.
I wish I wasn't on such a fixed income. I'd like to support you and your channel. I'll try to work something out there.
My wife started laughing about the "nerding" out on the relay. She said, "oh so it not just you that does that. I've been watching you nerd out on that kind of stuff for 20 years!"
😂😂 LMAO
Have a good one sir and be safe out there. Again, Thank You Sir for your time and efforts.
Very thorough diagnosis.
The secret to good soldering -- enough heat to get in and get out quick!
This goes for electronics, wire tinning, plumbing, huge fat welding or high-amperage bus cables, etc.
Very nice no-parts geek fix as usual!
The secret to good soldering is FLUX. Especially reflow jobs; the flux core in the solder is very limited.
A very nice add to the discussion. Kinda rare in TH-cam Land these days. Thanks!
And since we're going all-in with tech points, use old-school leaded solder. It flows nicer and doesn't oxidize like the "safe" stuff.
Especially on plumbing. Heat too long and the flux burns off and the soldier won't draw.
You alwYas amaze with your patience and willingness to fix instead of replace
You are amazing Ivan,That was a great one
Well done on the PCB repair Ivan. I had an electronics business many years ago, and spent a few minutes looking over the PCB with a Jeweler's Loop eyeglass. Get one of these, you will see the cracked joints (they are called _lands_ and _via's_ on printed circuits). Finish off the resolder with some clear nail varnish (conformal coating) to protect the joint. ✔
"joints (they are called lands and via's on printed circuits)" Joints are not called "lands" nor "vias". The location with a hole where a component is soldered is a "pad". A land is any region of copper on the board, not necessarily a pad. And a via is a small plated hole that connects a trace on one side of the board through (via) to a trace on the other side, and is never occupied by a wire or pin. (If it was occupied, it would be larger, and thus a though-hole pad). There can't be any vias on this board because it's single-sided (copper only on one side). You can paint on nail polish, but that would not have prevented the problem seen here, which was fatigue due to vibration, or cold solder joint from the factory. The solder was in otherwise OK condition without a coating, and it you lather on a coating it makes it a pain to solder them next time if that comes up. Yes, magnification does help inspect a board. The jeweler's kind is a "loupe".
@@Graham_Wideman I worked in design GEC printed circuit CAD, I know what you are saying, using varnish is a quick and cheap way to protect the joint from water or vibration. One would hope you would never have to open up that repair again!
Awesome. I remember when I fixed most of 80's GM stuff this way too! Cleaning contacts, switches, relay contacts, etc. A bit time consuming but worth it when you have the time. Great video! Now, if I can only figure out my Audi air conditioning issue.. lol Half the battle is getting the service data. It's a mix of VM manual, Chinese PDF with mixed placement illustrations, and Bentley publishing info.
Yeah European cars are much more fussy in that regard!
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics The Audis help keep me from being too complacent in knowledge base. :)
It's the 4th. of July, and Ivan gives us a mini Fireworks show.
Simple and to the point. Nice!!!
Happy 4th. to everyone!!!
Ivan now you can say FORD = First On Race Day. I learn so much from your videos. Thanks.
Its always a cold beer to see a great master peace at work master mind Ivan🤙🤙🤙😎😎😎🥃
I own several older cars that would have been long gone if I was unable to perform my own repairs. You show that with some logic and a little know-how, we can keep these older vehicles out of the scrap heap a while longer. Another excellent video!!! :-) And one is an 85 Toy 4x4 with manual locking hubs. Not fun to get out to turn the locks, but sure are bullet-proof.
Cool no parts required Ivan refloating cold solder joints on a Japanese relay .. another master repair 👍on the road again. happy 4th 🇺🇸
You are a freak, man! I mean that in the most loving way possible. The way you figure the stuff out just boggles my mind.
The most amazing part is that you took off all those dash panels and didn't break any.
Hey at least Ford makes a higher quality dash than Dodge!
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Absolutely. Maybe that truck stayed in a barn away from sunlight, too.
HAd a similar problem with my 96 Explorer. Same system. Same 2 relays. It shorts down to the transmission switch to find neutral. I had a bad pigtail under the hood. 2 wires come out of the harness and ground at the firewall. GEM never saw neutral. Also had an issue with my automatic locks when the shifter was moved. I used Forscan, its free. You get the same data as the tool.
I also fixed my "Lamp out module" it is similar to that unit. Lost brake lamps...all the current from the lamps go thru those lousy solder joints! Has some current detector setup (looked up the IC). Headlights too! I soldered Jumpers to all the points on the board. No problems anymore. If the input terminal goes bad you never get any warning that your lights are out either!
Neat repairs. I like taking the shim out of the AC clutch, gives you an idea of how worn the hub and pulley face are🤣. I miss my 98 I had, for the most part, the truck was rock solid reliable. Weird problem with the 4wd system, that system is pretty reliable.
I worked at a small company in Troy, Michigan that made this module. Thanks for the video Ivan!
Nice, I suspected a mechanical issue but you knew better, nice job
Mice? I had a mouse nest under that panel on dash. (Found truck on farm as project) Mice had chewed vacuum line down that peek a boo panel on dash. I had a kinked neck after fixing that.... Excellent work as always. Glad to watch Ivan teach me about something I have super bonus.
do u know why mice and rats chew on things? have u ever thought abt it? its because they are like rabbits, if they dont chew on things frequently thier teeth will grow to thier feet.
Good job Ivan! Nothing wrong with being a nerd. That’s how you learn and share knowledge. Funny when you said made in Japan. When I was a kid in the 60’s made in Japan meant poor quality and through the years they became known for quality. Then it was made in Taiwan that was poor quality and they became good quality. Fast forward and we’re up to China. Next the manufacturers will go shopping for another country that can make goods for less than China. It never ends.
I would like to say thank you for your detail video. I have a 2001 f150 lariat 4x4 that had the same symptoms and after checking all other systems, vacuum lines, electrical so on over the years I still had the same symptoms. I pulled apart the covers on the dash and removed the relay and found two solder points cracked and fixed it in minutes and everything works fine.
Yep. Between electrical components/wiring and aging vehicles, problems like that become more common. Depending on the component (size/weight) will remove solder, bend leads 90 degrees against pad prior to resoldering. Have a great 4th in Happy Valley. Their fireworks display are one of the best. Been there a few times.
Outstanding technical knowledge. Great analysis of the symptoms and logical approach to find the issue. After viewing your video I have a much better understanding of the electrical and mechanical workings of the F150 4x4 system. Thanks for sharing your expertise posting this video.
It used to be, we would turn the hubs, then hop in and pull the linkage connected shifter into 4WD. Boy do I miss crank-up windows.
Did this testing with my 2000 Honda Accord's main relay. When the weather got warm my car would just crank but no start. So I re-flowed the solder points in the relay and it's still working over 2 yrs. later... Good job Ivan.
good work again, love those old trucks
Thanks for this. Ended up having a similar issue. Relay was working intermittently. Took it out, open the relay case, and tapped the actual physical relay on the circuit board a few times. Then she shifted perfect every time.
I had read all these horror stories about water getting into the GEM and causing 4wd no shift issues so I'm glad it's just the relay
You're an amazing mechanic. You're in a league of your own, friend.
Happy 4th, Ivan. Thanks for the content!
Happy 4th!
Most of the time the culprit is simple but being patient and taking the time to find it is satisfying. Thanks for your detective work.
It was definitely satisfying! Glad you enjoyed it!
Good morning
Good morning David! 🌞
This is amazing. So many people would just start replacing stuff instead of taking the time to figure out what’s really going on.
Like watching Big Clive without the alcohol and explosions- Keep it up Ivan, ypu'll get there !!!
You're right Ivan, that was super cool. Thanks!
If I were that customer then there would be a major tip handed to you on top of the bill.
exactly then another tip after i watched the video of him fixing my truck.
Ivan keeping America running.
Great testing wire diagram bench testing WELL DONE !!!
Nicely done once again , Ivan. Thanks for the video
Great to see someone actually fix a problem/s instead of just replacing expensive parts. Good one Ivan :-)
Most comprehensive F150 4x4 troubleshooting. I learned few new things about old f150 Fly on Go systems. Thank Ivan.
Fantastic work Ivan always a pleasure watching you fix things.. Have a great 4th of July mate from the Aussie guy :) cheers.
You continue to amaze me your mind is a one stop for any issues vehicle's experience!
NPR video and Ivan gets geeky which even better. Gotta love the science.
I have this exact issue with my Expedition. Had her at the stealership, they did replace the relay box (can’t buy new and hard to find). It was fixed but it’s back to doing the same thing. Gonna have to check these solder joints!
Awesome repair as always! I love seeing no parts required fixes on old vehicles.
I bought a SQ-001 after seeing you use your TS100 and absolutely love it. I use my Milwaukee m18 batteries with a boost converter as a portable 24V power supply for it and it kicks absolute ass!
Lol, I was all ready to start a whoopin and a hollerin about pulling a shim out of that AC compressor clutch and then bonus footage came up.. :)
I once owned A Citroen CX, a car that you probably never saw in the USA. It was a semi-automatic with a three speed shift, so it had a hydraulically operated clutch and a torque converter. The way it worked was that there were three micro-switches on the stick shift, these triggered a relay that energised a large solenoid. This solenoid diverted hydraulic pressure to open the clutch plates. You can imagine that this relay was doing a lot of work and when the contacts got blackened you might lose one or more volts on the output. This made the gear changes rather cranky, install a new relay and it was back to normal.
The moral of the story, any relay that is switching an inductive load will need to be regularly replaced.
BTW that CX was a fantastic car, it had sweet spot at 90mph! These things were designed for long distance motorway travel.
Sir Ivan, I don't understand most of the diags. you do, ( THAT'S ON ME ) I'm old school, Carbs. not so many damn wires & sensors. The newest vehicle I have is a Merc. Montego Premiere I picked up for $300 because the sub frame had too be welded, tires & switched those damn LED tail lights too a Ford 500 bulb set up. LED tail lights were over $900 a piece at dealership, go for around $400 used & you have to buy the whole assembly, KRAZY. You sure amaze me at the Knowledge & skills you have, HELL YOUR WHOLE RUSSIAN FAMILY FOR THAT MATTER. I'm learning though & I'm about at 1/10 of your knowledge right now, LOL. HELL I still have a timing light & a crank trigger for the starter from the 80's. Broke down & bought a cheaper scanner $350 & some newer equipment. Now I just have to learn how too use it, MY BIGGEST FAULT. HAPPY INDEPENCE DAY TO YOU & YOUR WHOLE FAMILY SIR. Totally genius how you fix things, " NO PARTS REQUIRED " especially on that old 97 Ford.
Like x 1000! Thanks for this. I also found cracked solder joints on the control side, same side as yours, as well as both load sides. Re-flowed some solder and she's working again! Thanks a million!
Happy 4th! Ivan you are cool, not nerdy, just intelligent:)
Ivan, you never cease to amaze me.
Excellent diagnosis!!
Taking lead out of solder may have been good for the environment, but bad for the integrity of electronic connections.
yep its junk...i dont buy it ...takes more heat too
You are 100% right. I despise lead free solder and anytime I fix a cold solder joint, I always repair it with regular solder. I'm not sure if they were actually using lead free in "97", but it's possible : )
Very true, but using solder to hold parts in place has always been a bad idea.
Look at power sockets on phones, solder holds it in place.: -(
I hate lead free solder.
Some lead free solder is decent, of course manufacturers usually use the cheap stuff. But a '97 would likely have been using leaded solder. Manufacturers have been soldering boards poorly for much longer than lead free solder has been around..
I will never use lead free on anything it is just inferior to "real"
The customer could argue that you should pay him for the satisfaction you got fixing his truck. Really cool case study!
97’s used to let the rainwater run straight down into back of fuse panel, i made a silcine dam up above just under the hood that redirected the water. after a week or so everything worked as it should . windows included . cheers.
Amazing! No parts required your catch phrase! Excelsior!
Those are very satisfying to fix. Enjoyed that
Congrats on the shim replacement idea - brilliant. Last time I replaced an A/C clutch, on a GM "truck," I managed to blow all of the seals out of the compressor when I cranked the engine to test the AC after the system was recharged. The problem was very weak snap rings in the Chinese electro-magnetic clutch kit, which weren't strong enough for the job, and very hard to put in when I tried to do the job with the compressor still in the truck. Got industrial strength snap rings from McMaster-Carr and took the compressor out to do a proper job. Used the new snap rings, and was able to re-use the old seals, which were undamaged, put in a new drier, vacuumed and recharged it, and had no more problems w/AC. Traded it for something else a few months later. No more GM products for me.
Reflowed the solder joints on my turn signal flasher on my '00 Jeep Grand Cherokee because it was intermediate. I could jiggle the flasher when the signals wouldn't work to make them work.
You demonstrate the difference between a mechanic and a parts changer. Great job.
Yes that is the philosophy behind my business...no parts replacement without a diagnosis. So far it has worked well 🙂
You're a Master Jedi at diagnostic troubleshooting with the patience of Jobe.
Nice work ,Ivan !! I could see the satisfaction in your eyes.
No matter how many times I watch Ivan I realize he is a Russian genius. I would love to think I am learning et I only learn that he is a Master at the no parts fix.
...wow...Ivan....one of your best diag videos yet....and NO PARTS REQUIRED...beautiful...
I shudder to think what the dealership would have done with this vehicle... :)
It's just like those great radio/tape/CD players in that generation of F-150s- one cracked solder joint behind the display panel intermittently cuts off the radio/clock display, but it's hard to see or find the crack. However, you can reflow all of the solder joints in a minute or less, which is a guaranteed fix, at least it was on my '98 F150 - should be the same for that 4WD relay, as you demonstrated. Thanks for the high temp suggestion on the soldering pen.
Ivan great troubleshooting Thanks for sharing and you and wife have a safe and enjoyable 4th of July 😊🇺🇸
Pro tip: use brass wool to clean the tip of the soldering iron. The problem with relays (and "heavy" components in general) in vibrating environments (dishwasher, washing machine, or cars, …) is that they are not affixed mechanically to the PCB at all. The solder joint is primarily an electrical connection (to some degree, of course, also a mechanical connection), but these heavier components like relays, chokes, or big capacitors just break the solder joint over time.
Did the same repair on the AC on my '03 Subaru Forester. Pulled a shim on the clutch.
Your video is good. It can even be used on the 2002 4x4. The relays are over the driverside wheel well but the wiring still follows the same concept. I was able to check out my 4x4 on my 2002 F350,
Well Done, Thanks for the video
This was awesome, same symptoms. Fixed my issue. Thank you! Saved me a bunch of $$. I also fixed the intermittent odometer at the same time.
AC clutch is going...it will need replacing but this may get him farther down the road...or through the summer??...
Great repair !!
👍
I think this video taught me more the the 400 others I have watched ! Your explanations are awesome ! I may have to unsubscribe to the makeuloco guy , I don’t think the word relay came out of his mouth , thanks for the video !!
Ivan happy 4th and you are on top of the ladder when it comes to figure thing out thank for showing it to us
Nice job. Excellent work.
I just bought a '97 F150. 4.6 engine with 255k. It's not a NISSAN, but so far so good ! Thank you Ivan for the video.
Great diag/work our friend. I don't have any of those skills but it gives me a target. My F150 won't change any 2-4wd with no clicks from dash as well as dash lights.
With the price of new vehicles, it's worth the money to repair the old ones.
Wow that was awesome Ivan. Thanks very informative and helpful.
Thanks Mike!
I totally enjoyed the tour to nerdville and back, no where else can u get such complete diagnosis , u continue to amaze, luv this channel , thanks and have a safe 4th
Excellent Video Motoyam. Really enjoyed this one. 👍👍
That’s amazing most garages would have sold a transfer case an A/C compressor and even an injector or two. Nice work.