I made a silicone dam on my 97 under the hood to guide the rainwater away from fuse box harness,, it fixed all the electrical issues after a few days of drying it out. cheers
Had a similar draw on a newer f-150. It was back feeding a little over 2 volts to a relay in the fuse box causing that relay to stay on. It was a connector in the harness under the bed that fed a lot of stuff at the back of the truck like the back up camera, tail gate actuator, etc. It looked perfectly fine from the outside AND when disconnected. I blew air through the connector for the hell of it and it just started weeping water droplets out of the backside. Soaking it with brake clean and blowing it out real good stopped the drain. It was for a used car lot and probably had been under water. They had just got it from the auction and it has supposedly been checked out numerous times without resolution. I’ve never seen a connector look perfectly dry like that and have water hiding down deep inside with no visual evidence whatsoever. I think the weather pack was actually keeping it from drying out in this instance by sealing it in. When you work on cars that come from auctions you’re guaranteed to run across some crazy 💩 that a lot of other people never see.
I worked on a ~2002 Expedition for a parasitic draw. Long story short, windshield leaked water into GEM, causing intermittent HVAC blower operation. I sealed the windshield, removed and dried the GEM. Reassembled, and problem solved. BTW, my compliments on your knowledge, and problem solving techniques!
Thanks a bunch. My HVAC fan, headlights, stereo all turn on hours after it rains while my 2K Expedition is parked. Saw moisture under interior fuse box and felt left side of drivers seat cushion slightly damp. Thank you for helping me to discover that my Expedition isn't possessed.
I spent months diagnosing my wife's '94 Z71 Sub that would kill the battery dead in less than 2 days. I tried everything, and every time I'd turn the ignition on, eveything would wake up and I had to start over. Turns out the AC compressor clutch was staying on. There are few things more satisfying in the car mechanic world than fixing a current draw issue, especially on a late model car. Great video, as usual, can't wait to watch part 2.
Pine hollow diag./ western truck and tractor repair / SMA..My favorite youtube channels. All 3 channels get you thinking outside the box. Also letting us know this might not be easy..youre gonna have to be commited and follow through..anotherwards all 3 techs are showing us what true determination looks like
This generation of F150 has two factory defects. One was officially recalled. The recall is for the switch in the master cylinder. It is always hot. The seal would fail and allow brake fluid to short the switch, and cause a fire. This would usually happen when the truck was parked. I tried to see if it looked like the recall repair had been done but could not see throughout the video. It is a good idea to verify if the recall repair has been done. The other problem this generation of F150 is known for is water intrusion through the drivers side of the windshield. Run a hose on the drivers side of the windshield while looking for water intrusion into the gem area. If water intrusion is present. The water takes the path of least resistance directly into the gem located directly behind the interior fuse box. Remove and open the gem. You will very likely find rusty, corroded, and broken connections. If possible clean, and repair the connections in the gem. Remove, and generously reseal the windshield. Buying a new gem if they are available will be several hundred dollars. 9 of 10 used gems will be in the same, or very similar condition. If the parasitic drain problem started recently, and is confirmed to be caused by the water intrusion into the gem, the gem will likely be repairable. If the parasitic drain problem started months or years ago, and the truck was parked then the longer the truck sat with the gem corroding away inside the worse off the gem will be, and less likely to be able to be repaired. Thank you for all your diagnostic videos. I have learned from watching. I hope this info is helpful to you. Best Regards.
I can attest to both of these issues. I own a 97 f150. When I got it the drivers window and the intermittent wipers didn’t work. Sure sign of a bad gem. I removed the gem and soaked it in 99% isopropyl alcohol overnight . That was able to remove all the corrosion. Everything worked when I plugged it in and has for years. (For anyone with the same problem looking to save $). That plus a new windshield was way cheaper than what new GEM. I also added a fuse to the cruise control brake switch because I couldn’t find the factory recall jumper. Witch was the same thing.
Your videos helped make me a much better and faster diagnostic technician in all realms of life and I can only imagine how many other people have stepped their game up after watching how you use a strategy to find the problem and fix it for good. Helped me get out of the shop and into a high paying job as a diagnostic technician for a fortune 100 company. Your videos literally helped change my life for the better.
These old f150s had water intrusion issues I had one that after a rain storm had accessories and warning lights coming of and on at will even with the key removed drying out the inside fuse box and GEM corrected the issue I instructed the customer to have the windshield resealed the water runs down directly from windshield to steering column support into the fusebox sometimes you can see a stain on this support confirming this
You are incredibly patient. I had jobs like this and most owners did not want to spend time and money in diagnosis. Boom. Put an electronic cutoff on the battery. They clicked the remote to connect the battery without opening the hood, started the beast and went to work. Yeah, it had to be left on a trickle charger during inspection month in CT (😳)
That's the issue. I recently had someone ask me "how much would it cost" to fix a battery drain. Well anytime I hear those words, I know they don't want to spend the money. I told him it could take 3-4 hours or more, or it could take an hour depending on the complexity. If they ask "what is your rate?", then there is a change I'll get the job. You are right though, many don't want to spend the money on the time it takes to chase these problems down.
@@graywaveautodiagnostics9389 GrayWave let’s be realistic here. These are old cars you are diagnosing. All people don’t have deep pockets, unscrupulous shops rip people off. ( just watch Rainmans Channel). People ask what the costs are before committing to what could be an uneconomical to repair job. Writing yourself a check on every job would be a great idea but you won’t last long doing that. Ivan has clear and concise prices, he is good at what he does, he is very busy most people trust him……..lesser auto electricians could take twice as long and have less success but still want top dollar.
@@Bo88y22 Agree. I know shops don't like to give estimates, but I ask for a ballpark/range for decision making purposes. They usually come up with a number when I ask for it that way. Everyone has a repair or replace threshold. They need to know if they're getting close to that.
@@Bo88y22 Yes, most don't want to spend more than $50 on a repair or diagnosis if its an older car, that is fine, they can do to a "buy here pay here" and get another one. The fact is, if you want the work done right, you need to pay. Ivan charges more than most, as he should. You pay for experience. Like I said, some take an hour, some can take more. Just like the one video he had where it took 7 hours. I am a professional and provide professional results, I won't short change myself. I earn every dollar I get. Some people don't understand the value of experience and only base the value on how quick the "fix" will be...."But it was only one wire you soldered, took you 5 minutes". Now when you give someone ball park ranges, that can be dangerous. What if I go over the ball park, what if you get to the ball park but don't fix it? Normally if it will take more than 2-3 hours, I ask the customer if they want to proceed. Up front I tell them I don't know how long it will take, I can only make an assumption and finding a fix is not guaranteed in the block of time I give them.
6:08 .. Idk if you noticed, but when you tested that next fuse--- it cuts off your "ghost" sound.. Then you test it again, and it beeps. So that relay making noise is related to the fuse your testing. cool stuff on this one. lol
Reminds me of my old VW Rabbit where water would run down the antenna cable, sneak past the rubber gasket and then drip right onto the main fusebox. The low spot on the antenna cable was right over the fusebox! Perfect fail.
I would see if the four way flashers work. On older Fords the switch would stick partially on and not fully release. It would send current through the switch but not enough to operate the lights. May be why the flasher relay has a draw.
Wow, so complicated job to figure out the soft short to positive! Was getting bit confused by the layout how that be possible! I'll wait til part 2 on this. I'm going to re- watch this again to gain bit of understanding of how to find that, awesome video!!
You are doing a great job in tracking down the source of the problem, Ivan! This looks like either a previous owner did some nutty do-it-yourself wiring or there are some shorted wires related to the load side of fuse 23. How frustrating it is to be searching for a needle in the haystack. Part 2 should be interesting.
Good work there, steady as she goes! Not guessing or jumping on conclutions or doing a parts cannon as anybody else would. Can't wait for part 2! I would gladly pay for diagnostics if I knew someone as thorough as you.
You know it's going to be an interesting one when there are parts to the video. Lol. Here we go. Part 1. Let's see what this Fix Or Repair Daily has got in store.
I had a 2015 kia sportage last week that had a 5amp draw on it. Yes 5 amps. I gave the kid I work with job of checking it out, he's still learning. There were multiple fuses that were responsible for a few amps each. Radio, amplifier, ecm, cluster, etc. He thought the radio was responsible for all of the problems and wanted to replace it because it was responsible for the largest draw, around 2.5 amps. I ended up taking over the diag because I didn't think it was the issue because to many things were still awake for it to be the radio. I traced it back to the shifter not registering it was in park, the little micro switch that says I'm home now was not being triggered because the shifter button was not retracting all of the way and contacting the switch. Probably one of the largest draws I've seen with the simplest fix.
In 1987 I worked at Ford and at the time you had to be Ford Cert to get paid for total time warranty claims which was called M time. I had a new Thunderbird that would blow the resistor shunt on the Light Switch . Long story short I found a unused connector under the drivers seat carpet resting on a piece of metal slag which when the drive would sit down in the seat that was enough to short it out. I had the whole interior out on the floor looking for the problem. But it was fixed and got paid off of clock time.
Ivan, you have us very much engaged. I think I'm speaking for a large percentage of your audience in that "we are all waiting with bated breath for Part 2. Thanks for Sharing!
I didn't have a parasitic draw, but I know on my 2002 F350 7.3l diesel--- I had a buzzing relay under the dash, above the accelerator: and it turned out to be the blue flasher relay.. So I'll be interested to see if that's where you end up.
Loving the chase Ivan. I'm not a mechanic but with your deductive reasoning I love the dead ends you go down as you tick off your mental flow chart leading to the ultimate goal. Others use the parts cannon, Ivan, deductive reasoning.
Top work! Your diagnostic methods remind me of the Whodunnit game Cluedo, it's all about elimination. Instead of Colonel Mustard/Study/Dagger we have things like Green crusties/Fuse box/Water leak. Can't wait for the next part of this mystery!
Nevermind the trailer harness relay the bigger millennial problem is the metal rod sticking out of the transmission tunnel hump and that weird looking third pedal to the left of the brake pedal. 🤣
I bought a used 2008 F350 SD back in 2012 from the lot of a Ford Dealer. Salesman says to me "You don't want that one... It has a manual transmission." I replied "That is WHY I want that one..." Sadly, they don't even make manual transmission models any more. When the dealer salespeople call and say "Your truck is 14 years old now... Want to buy a new one?" the phone call ends shortly after I say "Yes! I'll take one loaded with everything including a manual transmission!".
Hey Ivan iit took me 3 days to find parasitic draw on a 98 chevy truck. Found it to be the driver power seat switch. BTW dropping that package off at Post office today. I will email you the tracking number.
I had a parasitic draw on a 1993 C1500 for over a decade. I'd look at it here and there when time permitted. However, since the vehicle was occasional-use, I just put a knife switch on it along with a trickle charger and lived with it. Then, while doing some other behind-the-dash work I discovered an aftermarket relay spliced into the wiring. After the relay was exorcised, the draw was gone. No doubt, this is one of the handful of reasons I scored the truck for a song and a dance. I'm still driving it too!
@@dannylinc6247 Most likely, the relay was for the electric trailer brakes installed at some point. I had removed the brake controller numerous years before (wired with Romex and wire nuts even back to the trailer hitch).
**** There are 2 relays hidden relays beside the inside fuse box.. The only way you can see these is from looking upward above the gas and break pedals, underneath the panel that's right below the drivers wheel... (On my 2003 F-150 is where they are located on my truck.)
I remember that if you forgot the lights on, you couldn't turn them off if the battery voltage dropped too low on Ford around that era. Maybe putting 12V on that circuit would allow something to shut down.
Is the driver's side carpet wet by the pillar? I had very similar symptoms on my 2001 Navigator. Water was coming in around the windshield gasket and dripping on the wires/relays under the steering column and fuse box. Fixed windshield gasket, solved issue.
Maybe I'm just odd, but I love the challenge of these weird parasitic draws :-) Masterclass on patience and sound reasoning, Ivan! I wonder if someone wired some add-on to the wrong circuit. Let's wait for Part 2 :-)
I also like chasing down electrical gremlins. Wish it would pay as well as slapping on brake pads... My bet is green fuzz in the harness, is the carpet wet??
Nope, your not odd. I love Ivan's deductive reasoning and the chase too. Who would have thought it would be so entertaining. Between Ivan, Ray and Eric O I have my 3 main watch list. They are all great but Ivan is pure genius. I have to stop and replay at time to catch his logic but Ivan is great at the chase.
98 F150 - Distribution Box Fuse 22 - It feeds constant power to the interior Junction Box Fuse 1 thru 4 & 12 thru 15. After I put the GEM module to sleep, I found that my Amp Draw was coming from Fuse 13. Fuse 13 is the Brake System; it has 3 different circuits: 1) Brake Pressure Switch 2) Brake Light Switch 3) Rear Wheel ABS module. What I found out was that my Brake Lights were staying on. When I lifted the brake pedal, the amp draw dropped to .03. I ordered a new Brake Light Switch.
I was just looking at the same diagram from a draw . Some one wired A led wrong in the traller wires on a stake body . Back feeding the relay. It keep the running lights on sometimes
Many longs ago my gramps had a similar issue. Found out that he covered his camper power cord with a bag when the camper was off the truck. Try to keep the plug clean i guess And here in the P.N.W. we see many days with rain well it filled the bag with water and the plug being submerged in water in a bag it was killing the battery. Lol the bag was warm water Givin separating the H from the O.
Trailer Tow - does that power trailer lights? Could have some “custom wiring” at the trailer wiring harness cross feeding with a hot wire in the same connector
Had 3V on the same fuses, pulled the fuse box and had corrosion on the lower connectors. Owner needed it running ASAP so I reinstalled and the problem was gone, it seems just a bad connection on the plugs causes the back feed issue. But thanks for the leg work.
Guys who don't have the patience for this are in the wrong business. You gotta want to find the problem and be willing to follow the procedure to the end. Not a problem if you like what you're doing.
That annoying beeping on these trucks (my 98 f150 has it too) is a thing to tell you somethings wrong without tripping the check engine light assuming its not a major problem. My EGR was seized up (open sadly) and it did it forever until I deleted that EGR junk. Yes, it still does it every time I put the key in lol. Need to find that damn buzzer...
My silly guess time: A sneaky rubbed through wire gone green and touching the back of the fuse box maybe. What a mad fault. That mad squealing sounded like an old kettle with whistle and boiling. I thought Oh ivan is having a cup of tea or coffee :-D
Had an interesting one after I had a professional installed compustar alarm and remote start installed on the Toyota. Remote start kept keeping the starter engaged after the engine started. I initially thought it needed the tach signal reprogrammed. Kept getting an error saying no signal. I wanted proof and pulled out the 8 channel Pico oscilloscope out and hooked up a tach signal on the coil and another channel on the remote start controller. Sure enough the controller wire had no tach signal going to it. Found a bad connection at the point where they used a 2 piece wire connector at the back coil for the tach signal. Took that apart, it actually fell apart in my hands. I used a solder connection without cutting the wire and heat shrinked the connection. I am guessing the vibration loosened the connection. In my area, cars are stolen right and left regardless of if it has the OEM security system with chipped key or not. Thieves are using tow trucks to steal cars here. I wanted to make it as difficult as possible to break in the car without the alarm siren going off. .
Hello Ivan, Another great video. Q: Why have you not checked the key/ignition module? That ghost in the background made me think the key was in the ignition module. Looking forward to the results. Cheers! P-Chi
I’m assuming the relay is hot at all times is for flashers to be able to emergency flash perhaps? Could there be a stuck switch causing a draw? This one is definitely interesting.
I am amazed at your knowledge and patience, I thoroughly enjoyed watching this and look forward to the rest. I have battery drain on my BMW e60 530d and struggling to find fault, I have found a relay in the boot (trunk) which is hot even when car asleep, any ideas, O and I've subscribed.
Did you try moving the turn signal switch? No joke. Look at the contacts in the wiring diagram. Does this have some aftermarket attachments or plug ins? The brake pedal is also an input to the t/s & 4 way switch. On to part 2.
Do you think jumping pins 30 and 87/87a on the battery saver relay would cause the vehicle power down sooner than 45 mins? Just curious if that would save time in future parasitic draw diags
Great work and workflow. I think you need to reflect on what 6v means… when you say “look for green crusties”…. You’re going to be missing a ground. High resistance on the ground…we’re not left with other options. I’m just a TH-cam Jack wagon though. Let’s see what you find.
It's things like this that make me very very happy that, back in '97, I chose team Jeep over team Ford when buying a new car. (hint: I still daily drive that very same Jeep)
That beep is the airbag sensor. If the airbag light is out in the cluster the backup alert is the beep around the glove box. It sounds like a microwave beep
Just by some of the sounds I was thinking the HVAC blower was coming on at lowest speed. Looking forward to part 2. Gotta wonder the horrors that are in store for DIY diagnosis and repair of the F150- EV.
Maybe, also, the door adjar chime was receiving 1/2 voltage and sounded continuous but weak rather than full sound by cycle. This normal operation DID occur along the troubleshooting way with the normal beep beep beep....
talk about a cliff hanger. i am going to have to watch this one again any way i couldn't keep up lol your logic is amazing years ago i had and escort that was backfeeing power the constant control relay keeping the fan on it wound up being green crusties in a connector under the dash so power was feeding from one pin to another in the connector
My electronics including ac blower fan with key “off” and key removed. Lights on dash and passenger off light also stayed on and could listen to radio with key off and removed.
havent even started to watch yet but i can tell you these are famous for windshiled leaks that run down the a pillar and short out that G.E.M. when it dries out it goes away until it gets too much corrosion.
The clue is it is a 1997 F150. More specifically, it is a '97 truck, forget the F150 part. In 25 years, a wire can easily rub through its insulation against another power wire. It is barely touching, but it is enough for 6 volts to back feed into the system. Start breaking connectors and see when it goes away.
My last weard back feed had nothing to do with any circuit on the component's feeding each other. The power for the central locking was feeding because the wires joined together in door harness and was in series with door lock. It would be weird if you unlock doors and problem went away as it did for me. Took me 5 hours the longest I have taken in 20 years.
when you turned on the 4way flasher the test light bounced low/hi etc to the flasher's beat. Important?? BTW... seeing the stocking cap and hearing the occasional wind cross the mic made me shiver. Appreciate we have similar working conditions.
That noise at the very beginning had me thinking a ground issue is causing current to run where it's not supposed to. The partial voltage is probably because current is going in series through several circuits.
Driver floor appears damp and dirtier at the kicker panel.... You have the typical leaking cowl and the fuse block inside is corroded internally. Needs a new fuse box under the dash
I've got a 450ma drain on a Volvo. I checked the 4 fuse boxes. Each fuse was measured in millivolts and they all went down to zero. I checked current between + battery pole and the starter/alternator and it measured zero amps. hmmm. I was wondering if a corroded circuit board could drain without showing up on a fuse?
I absolutely love doing draws at work 😊, definitely the highlight of my week bring them all on boys I’ll take’em all , yes I know I’m weird but I like what i like
Known issue with that body. Water intrusion follows harness to top of GEM, shorting random pins in the harness. After servicing the harness, I dosed it with WD, and tied a rag in a tourniquet around the harness. No more problems through 440k miles.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics nothing. In my experience, it only happened under certain conditions, so I wasn't going to chase it, unless it got worse (never seemed to...)
Um, at 16:50 when you have the flashers going the test light DOES CHANGE INTENSITY with the flashing!!!! I confess I have only seen the video to this point, but it's odd we can see it changing intensity in the video but you can't see it!
26:59 ...blower relay ..... mmmm the sound at 5:36 sounded like a blower motor trying to ' some thing ' ..... I mean what else is under / behind the glove box ?
You may not have 4WD, but how was it "removed" at the factory? Are there still connectors where the green crusties can attack? However, I'm guessing the soft short may be on the underside of the trailer relay box. That why it doesn't go away when you pull the relay. It also seems to be the only place fuse 24 gets close to always on power that hasn't already been ruled out. As for the shop replacing the GEM module, I'll bet that weak power was confusing it.
I remember now it was the flasher relay I changed it and it went away sometimes you got to look in the back where the trailer plug is you can go to the store and buy one open the harness plug a new one in them things go bad and they will make your car do some real dumb stuff I've changed several of them also
“Tea.s ready”! 9re: whistling noise). Sir I have a story to tell you.: I bought a 1965 Mustang 289 pony in 1969. My brother and I jump started the car but it had a positive ground? The car turn over very slowly growled in pain and died. Apparently we killed everything battery, radio, regulator generator or alternator all the wires. Ps the most amazing part of this story is when the Phil radio was off it would slowly light up and the volume would slowly go from 0 to full blast. Any comment?
I made a silicone dam on my 97 under the hood to guide the rainwater away from fuse box harness,, it fixed all the electrical issues after a few days of drying it out. cheers
Had a similar draw on a newer f-150. It was back feeding a little over 2 volts to a relay in the fuse box causing that relay to stay on. It was a connector in the harness under the bed that fed a lot of stuff at the back of the truck like the back up camera, tail gate actuator, etc. It looked perfectly fine from the outside AND when disconnected. I blew air through the connector for the hell of it and it just started weeping water droplets out of the backside. Soaking it with brake clean and blowing it out real good stopped the drain. It was for a used car lot and probably had been under water. They had just got it from the auction and it has supposedly been checked out numerous times without resolution. I’ve never seen a connector look perfectly dry like that and have water hiding down deep inside with no visual evidence whatsoever. I think the weather pack was actually keeping it from drying out in this instance by sealing it in. When you work on cars that come from auctions you’re guaranteed to run across some crazy 💩 that a lot of other people never see.
Yes indeed, auction vehicle does Sucks🤧
I worked on a ~2002 Expedition for a parasitic draw. Long story short, windshield leaked water into GEM, causing intermittent HVAC blower operation. I sealed the windshield, removed and dried the GEM. Reassembled, and problem solved. BTW, my compliments on your knowledge, and problem solving techniques!
That same thing happened on my 03 expedition. Made the brake lights flash when driving.
Factory window or had it been replaced?
Thanks a bunch. My HVAC fan, headlights, stereo all turn on hours after it rains while my 2K Expedition is parked. Saw moisture under interior fuse box and felt left side of drivers seat cushion slightly damp. Thank you for helping me to discover that my Expedition isn't possessed.
It's must have been a Interesting case study!
I spent months diagnosing my wife's '94 Z71 Sub that would kill the battery dead in less than 2 days. I tried everything, and every time I'd turn the ignition on, eveything would wake up and I had to start over. Turns out the AC compressor clutch was staying on. There are few things more satisfying in the car mechanic world than fixing a current draw issue, especially on a late model car. Great video, as usual, can't wait to watch part 2.
Actually it was an '04. I'm an idiot
@@bigblocklawyer i would take me 10 minutes to find that problem thermal image flir you got to have the right tool
@@juanrodriguez-ry6yt Yeah. That was over ten years ago when you were still playing Pokémon go. Gotta have the right tool.
@@bigblocklawyer 68 never played pukeman but i'm L1 Master car and truck with 50 years in the trade and you got I'm an idiot right wise ass
youd think a car that old would have every possible solution already available online
Pine hollow diag./ western truck and tractor repair / SMA..My favorite youtube channels. All 3 channels get you thinking outside the box. Also letting us know this might not be easy..youre gonna have to be commited and follow through..anotherwards all 3 techs are showing us what true determination looks like
This generation of F150 has two factory defects. One was officially recalled. The recall is for the switch in the master cylinder. It is always hot. The seal would fail and allow brake fluid to short the switch, and cause a fire. This would usually happen when the truck was parked. I tried to see if it looked like the recall repair had been done but could not see throughout the video. It is a good idea to verify if the recall repair has been done. The other problem this generation of F150 is known for is water intrusion through the drivers side of the windshield. Run a hose on the drivers side of the windshield while looking for water intrusion into the gem area. If water intrusion is present. The water takes the path of least resistance directly into the gem located directly behind the interior fuse box. Remove and open the gem. You will very likely find rusty, corroded, and broken connections. If possible clean, and repair the connections in the gem. Remove, and generously reseal the windshield. Buying a new gem if they are available will be several hundred dollars. 9 of 10 used gems will be in the same, or very similar condition. If the parasitic drain problem started recently, and is confirmed to be caused by the water intrusion into the gem, the gem will likely be repairable. If the parasitic drain problem started months or years ago, and the truck was parked then the longer the truck sat with the gem corroding away inside the worse off the gem will be, and less likely to be able to be repaired. Thank you for all your diagnostic videos. I have learned from watching. I hope this info is helpful to you. Best Regards.
We generally replaced fuse box & GEM as a combo. They both had the green crusties.
20:40 The Blue tag is on the recall fix harness, it looks like the recall was performed.
No
I can attest to both of these issues. I own a 97 f150. When I got it the drivers window and the intermittent wipers didn’t work. Sure sign of a bad gem.
I removed the gem and soaked it in 99% isopropyl alcohol overnight . That was able to remove all the corrosion. Everything worked when I plugged it in and has for years. (For anyone with the same problem looking to save $). That plus a new windshield was way cheaper than what new GEM.
I also added a fuse to the cruise control brake switch because I couldn’t find the factory recall jumper. Witch was the same thing.
I'm always at the comment section, to even learn more!😅
Your videos helped make me a much better and faster diagnostic technician in all realms of life and I can only imagine how many other people have stepped their game up after watching how you use a strategy to find the problem and fix it for good. Helped me get out of the shop and into a high paying job as a diagnostic technician for a fortune 100 company. Your videos literally helped change my life for the better.
These old f150s had water intrusion issues I had one that after a rain storm had accessories and warning lights coming of and on at will even with the key removed drying out the inside fuse box and GEM corrected the issue I instructed the customer to have the windshield resealed the water runs down directly from windshield to steering column support into the fusebox sometimes you can see a stain on this support confirming this
You are incredibly patient. I had jobs like this and most owners did not want to spend time and money in diagnosis.
Boom. Put an electronic cutoff on the battery. They clicked the remote to connect the battery without opening the hood, started the beast and went to work. Yeah, it had to be left on a trickle charger during inspection month in CT (😳)
That's the issue. I recently had someone ask me "how much would it cost" to fix a battery drain. Well anytime I hear those words, I know they don't want to spend the money. I told him it could take 3-4 hours or more, or it could take an hour depending on the complexity. If they ask "what is your rate?", then there is a change I'll get the job. You are right though, many don't want to spend the money on the time it takes to chase these problems down.
@@graywaveautodiagnostics9389 GrayWave let’s be realistic here. These are old cars you are diagnosing. All people don’t have deep pockets, unscrupulous shops rip people off. ( just watch Rainmans Channel). People ask what the costs are before committing to what could be an uneconomical to repair job. Writing yourself a check on every job would be a great idea but you won’t last long doing that.
Ivan has clear and concise prices, he is good at what he does, he is very busy most people trust him……..lesser auto electricians could take twice as long and have less success but still want top dollar.
@@Bo88y22 Agree. I know shops don't like to give estimates, but I ask for a ballpark/range for decision making purposes. They usually come up with a number when I ask for it that way. Everyone has a repair or replace threshold. They need to know if they're getting close to that.
@@Bo88y22 Yes, most don't want to spend more than $50 on a repair or diagnosis if its an older car, that is fine, they can do to a "buy here pay here" and get another one. The fact is, if you want the work done right, you need to pay. Ivan charges more than most, as he should. You pay for experience. Like I said, some take an hour, some can take more. Just like the one video he had where it took 7 hours. I am a professional and provide professional results, I won't short change myself. I earn every dollar I get. Some people don't understand the value of experience and only base the value on how quick the "fix" will be...."But it was only one wire you soldered, took you 5 minutes".
Now when you give someone ball park ranges, that can be dangerous. What if I go over the ball park, what if you get to the ball park but don't fix it? Normally if it will take more than 2-3 hours, I ask the customer if they want to proceed. Up front I tell them I don't know how long it will take, I can only make an assumption and finding a fix is not guaranteed in the block of time I give them.
@@graywaveautodiagnostics9389 Good auto electricians soon get a reputation. Rip off merchants are soon found out. Social media at it’s best.
You’ve got a great methodical way of working through these problems, there’s no guessing. Very professional 👏🏻👏🏻
6:08 .. Idk if you noticed, but when you tested that next fuse--- it cuts off your "ghost" sound.. Then you test it again, and it beeps. So that relay making noise is related to the fuse your testing. cool stuff on this one. lol
Wow, I thought I was a good Diagnostic Troubleshooter, but you are the Master in dissecting the problem. Sooo many pieces to this puzzle!
Reminds me of my old VW Rabbit where water would run down the antenna cable, sneak past the rubber gasket and then drip right onto the main fusebox. The low spot on the antenna cable was right over the fusebox! Perfect fail.
the whole windshield seal would rot and let water in.
I would see if the four way flashers work. On older Fords the switch would stick partially on and not fully release. It would send current through the switch but not enough to operate the lights. May be why the flasher relay has a draw.
Wo
Good idea.
Incorrect GEM installed along with the pre-existing parasitic draw? Can't wait for part 2.
Wow, so complicated job to figure out the soft short to positive! Was getting bit confused by the layout how that be possible! I'll wait til part 2 on this. I'm going to re- watch this again to gain bit of understanding of how to find that, awesome video!!
You are doing a great job in tracking down the source of the problem, Ivan! This looks like either a previous owner did some nutty do-it-yourself wiring or there are some shorted wires related to the load side of fuse 23. How frustrating it is to be searching for a needle in the haystack. Part 2 should be interesting.
It's a ford , probably a factory flaw
Ty h CD B
Good work there, steady as she goes! Not guessing or jumping on conclutions or doing a parts cannon as anybody else would. Can't wait for part 2! I would gladly pay for diagnostics if I knew someone as thorough as you.
You know it's going to be an interesting one when there are parts to the video. Lol. Here we go. Part 1. Let's see what this Fix Or Repair Daily has got in store.
I had a 2015 kia sportage last week that had a 5amp draw on it. Yes 5 amps. I gave the kid I work with job of checking it out, he's still learning. There were multiple fuses that were responsible for a few amps each. Radio, amplifier, ecm, cluster, etc. He thought the radio was responsible for all of the problems and wanted to replace it because it was responsible for the largest draw, around 2.5 amps. I ended up taking over the diag because I didn't think it was the issue because to many things were still awake for it to be the radio. I traced it back to the shifter not registering it was in park, the little micro switch that says I'm home now was not being triggered because the shifter button was not retracting all of the way and contacting the switch. Probably one of the largest draws I've seen with the simplest fix.
That's some crazy stuff!
Remember how they said that computers would do away with the need for paper? Not on vehicle repair.
In 1987 I worked at Ford and at the time you had to be Ford Cert to get paid for total time warranty claims which was called M time. I had a new Thunderbird that would blow the resistor shunt on the Light Switch . Long story short I found a unused connector under the drivers seat carpet resting on a piece of metal slag which when the drive would sit down in the seat that was enough to short it out. I had the whole interior out on the floor looking for the problem. But
it was fixed and got paid off of clock time.
Amazing!
Ivan, you have us very much engaged. I think I'm speaking for a large percentage of your audience in that "we are all waiting with bated breath for Part 2. Thanks for Sharing!
"It's a southern truck... it has a slow current drawl".
😂
I didn't have a parasitic draw, but I know on my 2002 F350 7.3l diesel--- I had a buzzing relay under the dash, above the accelerator: and it turned out to be the blue flasher relay.. So I'll be interested to see if that's where you end up.
Loving the chase Ivan. I'm not a mechanic but with your deductive reasoning I love the dead ends you go down as you tick off your mental flow chart leading to the ultimate goal. Others use the parts cannon, Ivan, deductive reasoning.
Top work! Your diagnostic methods remind me of the Whodunnit game Cluedo, it's all about elimination. Instead of Colonel Mustard/Study/Dagger we have things like Green crusties/Fuse box/Water leak. Can't wait for the next part of this mystery!
Haha glad you are enjoying the mysteries Robb 😁 This one even had cool sound effects 😅
Waiting for spring here in Maryland also but we haven't had flurries and snow as late as you have. Love the interesting cases like this
Fascinating! I can't wait to see the repair, especially since I have a 2002 F150!
There's mechanic's and guy's like you and Eric o, that the mechanics go to when their lost , thank heavens for guy's like you .
Stay the course Ivan, you are spiraling in on it!
Nevermind the trailer harness relay the bigger millennial problem is the metal rod sticking out of the transmission tunnel hump and that weird looking third pedal to the left of the brake pedal. 🤣
Those trucks stop much better with the 2nd brake pedal 😂
What do those items do exactly???
Millennial anti theft device.
@@davidgrisco1939 💯
I bought a used 2008 F350 SD back in 2012 from the lot of a Ford Dealer. Salesman says to me "You don't want that one... It has a manual transmission." I replied "That is WHY I want that one..." Sadly, they don't even make manual transmission models any more. When the dealer salespeople call and say "Your truck is 14 years old now... Want to buy a new one?" the phone call ends shortly after I say "Yes! I'll take one loaded with everything including a manual transmission!".
Hey Ivan iit took me 3 days to find parasitic draw on a 98 chevy truck. Found it to be the driver power seat switch. BTW dropping that package off at Post office today. I will email you the tracking number.
I had a parasitic draw on a 1993 C1500 for over a decade. I'd look at it here and there when time permitted. However, since the vehicle was occasional-use, I just put a knife switch on it along with a trickle charger and lived with it.
Then, while doing some other behind-the-dash work I discovered an aftermarket relay spliced into the wiring. After the relay was exorcised, the draw was gone.
No doubt, this is one of the handful of reasons I scored the truck for a song and a dance. I'm still driving it too!
Like a rock! 😎
Nothing works like a Chevy truck.
Good find, what did the add-on relay supply?
@@dannylinc6247 Most likely, the relay was for the electric trailer brakes installed at some point. I had removed the brake controller numerous years before (wired with Romex and wire nuts even back to the trailer hitch).
@@russellstephan6844 harry home renovator and his wiring savvy In a hurry to get trailer brakes.
Then he tries using house wiring.
Check voltage drop from battery ground to the ground pin of the relay plug. Could be coming from ground side.
The tension mounts..... wait for the next episode of Electrical Malfunction Theater.
**** There are 2 relays hidden relays beside the inside fuse box.. The only way you can see these is from looking upward above the gas and break pedals, underneath the panel that's right below the drivers wheel... (On my 2003 F-150 is where they are located on my truck.)
I remember that if you forgot the lights on, you couldn't turn them off if the battery voltage dropped too low on Ford around that era. Maybe putting 12V on that circuit would allow something to shut down.
Is the driver's side carpet wet by the pillar? I had very similar symptoms on my 2001 Navigator. Water was coming in around the windshield gasket and dripping on the wires/relays under the steering column and fuse box. Fixed windshield gasket, solved issue.
Maybe I'm just odd, but I love the challenge of these weird parasitic draws :-)
Masterclass on patience and sound reasoning, Ivan! I wonder if someone wired some add-on to the wrong circuit. Let's wait for Part 2 :-)
I also like chasing down electrical gremlins. Wish it would pay as well as slapping on brake pads... My bet is green fuzz in the harness, is the carpet wet??
@@scrappy7571 Yep, that's the problem - good for the mind, bad for the pocket 🙂
Could well be the green crust and a wet carpet is a good call.
Nope, your not odd. I love Ivan's deductive reasoning and the chase too. Who would have thought it would be so entertaining. Between Ivan, Ray and Eric O I have my 3 main watch list. They are all great but Ivan is pure genius. I have to stop and replay at time to catch his logic but Ivan is great at the chase.
@@chrisbentleywalkingandrambling LOL. Thanks 🙂 I agree.
As long as it’s not my car. I’m sure the dealership never found it. What flat rate mechanic could afford to chase this?
I’m feeling like ole Sherlock at this point. I know we’re in the right room! Just need to find the murder weapon. Thx for bringing us along Ivan! 🤠🇺🇸
98 F150 - Distribution Box Fuse 22 - It feeds constant power to the interior Junction Box Fuse 1 thru 4 & 12 thru 15. After I put the GEM module to sleep, I found that my Amp Draw was coming from Fuse 13. Fuse 13 is the Brake System; it has 3 different circuits: 1) Brake Pressure Switch 2) Brake Light Switch 3) Rear Wheel ABS module. What I found out was that my Brake Lights were staying on. When I lifted the brake pedal, the amp draw dropped to .03. I ordered a new Brake Light Switch.
educated guess would be green crusties in the multi pin connector thats between the fuses and modules
I was initially inspecting bad ignition switch causing parasitic draw with those items that's supposed to be off when the vehicle is shut down
Pretty neat to be able to eliminate that just by following a wiring diagram, pulling fuses, and taking notes with a logical approach :)
I was just looking at the same diagram from a draw . Some one wired A led wrong in the traller wires on a stake body . Back feeding the relay. It keep the running lights on sometimes
Many longs ago my gramps had a similar issue. Found out that he covered his camper power cord with a bag when the camper was off the truck. Try to keep the plug clean i guess And here in the P.N.W. we see many days with rain well it filled the bag with water and the plug being submerged in water in a bag it was killing the battery. Lol the bag was warm water Givin separating the H from the O.
Trailer Tow - does that power trailer lights? Could have some “custom wiring” at the trailer wiring harness cross feeding with a hot wire in the same connector
that's a 12v power feed to charge trailer batteries when connected and vehicle running.
This video has a tutorial vibe. I love it. Thanks Ivan!
LOL, I thought that was you screaming Ivan when I first heard
that noise, that's crazy its screaming
for help!!! 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Can't wait for part 2. Love the diagnose process.
You and the battery...
Hi Ivan. I had that same little DM70 voltmeter when I was a kid! Crazy, I wish I still had that little thing.
I would suggest to look at the fuse panel sticker and see if someone mistakenly put a fuse in an empty fuse spot which is supposed to be empty.
Had 3V on the same fuses, pulled the fuse box and had corrosion on the lower connectors. Owner needed it running ASAP so I reinstalled and the problem was gone, it seems just a bad connection on the plugs causes the back feed issue. But thanks for the leg work.
I don't know how to do any of this, BUT it's fascinating to watch YOU do it.
Guys who don't have the patience for this are in the wrong business. You gotta want to find the problem and be willing to follow the procedure to the end. Not a problem if you like what you're doing.
That annoying beeping on these trucks (my 98 f150 has it too) is a thing to tell you somethings wrong without tripping the check engine light assuming its not a major problem. My EGR was seized up (open sadly) and it did it forever until I deleted that EGR junk. Yes, it still does it every time I put the key in lol. Need to find that damn buzzer...
My silly guess time: A sneaky rubbed through wire gone green and touching the back of the fuse box maybe.
What a mad fault.
That mad squealing sounded like an old kettle with whistle and boiling.
I thought Oh ivan is having a cup of tea or coffee :-D
Your one handed work is amazing...
Had an interesting one after I had a professional installed compustar alarm and remote start installed on the Toyota. Remote start kept keeping the starter engaged after the engine started. I initially thought it needed the tach signal reprogrammed. Kept getting an error saying no signal. I wanted proof and pulled out the 8 channel Pico oscilloscope out and hooked up a tach signal on the coil and another channel on the remote start controller. Sure enough the controller wire had no tach signal going to it. Found a bad connection at the point where they used a 2 piece wire connector at the back coil for the tach signal. Took that apart, it actually fell apart in my hands. I used a solder connection without cutting the wire and heat shrinked the connection. I am guessing the vibration loosened the connection.
In my area, cars are stolen right and left regardless of if it has the OEM security system with chipped key or not. Thieves are using tow trucks to steal cars here. I wanted to make it as difficult as possible to break in the car without the alarm siren going off. .
"Feed-Load," aka "Line-Load." from my 50+ years of experience.
Just saying. Damned good work Ivan!
Hello Ivan,
Another great video. Q: Why have you not checked the key/ignition module? That ghost in the background made me think the key was in the ignition module.
Looking forward to the results.
Cheers!
P-Chi
Original problem OR is this a result of the owners last repair? Looking forward to part two.
Green crusties someplace on a terminal block backside? Or, a bad relay with green crusties inside.
I’m assuming the relay is hot at all times is for flashers to be able to emergency flash perhaps? Could there be a stuck switch causing a draw? This one is definitely interesting.
I am amazed at your knowledge and patience, I thoroughly enjoyed watching this and look forward to the rest. I have battery drain on my BMW e60 530d and struggling to find fault, I have found a relay in the boot (trunk) which is hot even when car asleep, any ideas, O and I've subscribed.
Did you try moving the turn signal switch? No joke. Look at the contacts in the wiring diagram. Does this have some aftermarket attachments or plug ins? The brake pedal is also an input to the t/s & 4 way switch.
On to part 2.
Do you think jumping pins 30 and 87/87a on the battery saver relay would cause the vehicle power down sooner than 45 mins? Just curious if that would save time in future parasitic draw diags
Great work and workflow. I think you need to reflect on what 6v means… when you say “look for green crusties”…. You’re going to be missing a ground. High resistance on the ground…we’re not left with other options. I’m just a TH-cam Jack wagon though. Let’s see what you find.
It's things like this that make me very very happy that, back in '97, I chose team Jeep over team Ford when buying a new car.
(hint: I still daily drive that very same Jeep)
Yeah Ford went a bit over the top with the fancy modules that like to stay awake lol
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics on a 97 no less!!!
That beep is the airbag sensor. If the airbag light is out in the cluster the backup alert is the beep around the glove box. It sounds like a microwave beep
Just by some of the sounds I was thinking the HVAC blower was coming on at lowest speed. Looking forward to part 2. Gotta wonder the horrors that are in store for DIY diagnosis and repair of the F150- EV.
Maybe, also, the door adjar chime was receiving 1/2 voltage and sounded continuous but weak rather than full sound by cycle. This normal operation DID occur along the troubleshooting way with the normal beep beep beep....
talk about a cliff hanger. i am going to have to watch this one again any way i couldn't keep up lol your logic is amazing years ago i had and escort that was backfeeing power the constant control relay keeping the fan on it wound up being green crusties in a connector under the dash so power was feeding from one pin to another in the connector
My electronics including ac blower fan with key “off” and key removed. Lights on dash and passenger off light also stayed on and could listen to radio with key off and removed.
havent even started to watch yet but i can tell you these are famous for windshiled leaks that run down the a pillar and short out that G.E.M. when it dries out it goes away until it gets too much corrosion.
It did have a pool of water on the floor... A clue perhaps? 🙃
hi I have one of those little multi meters' brought it in the mid 90's its been brilliant I always carry it with me,
The clue is it is a 1997 F150. More specifically, it is a '97 truck, forget the F150 part. In 25 years, a wire can easily rub through its insulation against another power wire. It is barely touching, but it is enough for 6 volts to back feed into the system. Start breaking connectors and see when it goes away.
Had the same issue on my 1997 5.4 Expedition found mine it was the factory stereo amp via GEM module!
My last weard back feed had nothing to do with any circuit on the component's feeding each other. The power for the central locking was feeding because the wires joined together in door harness and was in series with door lock. It would be weird if you unlock doors and problem went away as it did for me. Took me 5 hours the longest I have taken in 20 years.
when you turned on the 4way flasher the test light bounced low/hi etc to the flasher's beat. Important??
BTW... seeing the stocking cap and hearing the occasional wind cross the mic made me shiver. Appreciate we have similar working conditions.
1st class detective if you were in the police department great video never miss your videos Bill N LI NY
That noise at the very beginning had me thinking a ground issue is causing current to run where it's not supposed to. The partial voltage is probably because current is going in series through several circuits.
Good guess! But that would be too easy ;)
The kettle is boiling - time to make the tea.
Driver floor appears damp and dirtier at the kicker panel....
You have the typical leaking cowl and the fuse block inside is corroded internally. Needs a new fuse box under the dash
I've got a 450ma drain on a Volvo. I checked the 4 fuse boxes. Each fuse was measured in millivolts and they all went down to zero. I checked current between + battery pole and the starter/alternator and it measured zero amps. hmmm. I was wondering if a corroded circuit board could drain without showing up on a fuse?
I absolutely love doing draws at work 😊, definitely the highlight of my week bring them all on boys I’ll take’em all , yes I know I’m weird but I like what i like
Known issue with that body. Water intrusion follows harness to top of GEM, shorting random pins in the harness. After servicing the harness, I dosed it with WD, and tied a rag in a tourniquet around the harness. No more problems through 440k miles.
Nice! What about the water intrusion?
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics nothing. In my experience, it only happened under certain conditions, so I wasn't going to chase it, unless it got worse (never seemed to...)
Um, at 16:50 when you have the flashers going the test light DOES CHANGE INTENSITY with the flashing!!!! I confess I have only seen the video to this point, but it's odd we can see it changing intensity in the video but you can't see it!
I mean slightly just due to system voltage changes 🙂
Sounds like the safety belt buzzer or the door buzzer mine done the same thing I kept hearing that buzzing and was like what the hell is buzzing
26:59 ...blower relay ..... mmmm the sound at 5:36 sounded like a blower motor trying to ' some thing ' ..... I mean what else is under / behind the glove box ?
You may not have 4WD, but how was it "removed" at the factory? Are there still connectors where the green crusties can attack? However, I'm guessing the soft short may be on the underside of the trailer relay box. That why it doesn't go away when you pull the relay. It also seems to be the only place fuse 24 gets close to always on power that hasn't already been ruled out. As for the shop replacing the GEM module, I'll bet that weak power was confusing it.
Excellent excellent work you are extremely smart
I want to tell you what happens with those trucks.Water leaks from the windshield on
Where did you get the schematics? Can you send me the link? Thanks
Why would a fuse have a voltage drop? It's just a conductor that opens if there is an overload to protect the wire.
How are you testing draw? For amps my meter uses a clamp not the probes
I remember now it was the flasher relay I changed it and it went away sometimes you got to look in the back where the trailer plug is you can go to the store and buy one open the harness plug a new one in them things go bad and they will make your car do some real dumb stuff I've changed several of them also
I'm guessing Part 2 is something like "massive green crusties found on the whole back of fuse box"
Isn't that "Ghost noise" a signal that you left the key in the ignition switch and the door is open???
Interesting case Ivan:)
“Tea.s ready”! 9re: whistling noise). Sir I have a story to tell you.: I bought a 1965 Mustang 289 pony in 1969. My brother and I jump started the car but it had a positive ground? The car turn over very slowly growled in pain and died. Apparently we killed everything battery, radio, regulator generator or alternator all the wires. Ps the most amazing part of this story is when the Phil radio was off it would slowly light up and the volume would slowly go from 0 to full blast. Any comment?
That noise and blower relay location...... could it be related to the blower motor?