@@Skoolie_of_Fish I buy all my power pole connectors and crimping tools from these guys. You can get a “starter kit” of connectors and their crimper which will give you everything you need. You can get crumpets that are less expensive on Amazon but you get what you pay for. powerwerx.com/
Great video! Easy to follow. Before you constructed this 12 V conversion, what kind of inverter were u plugging into? Modified sine wave or a regular inverter? Thanks in advance!
I have a Victron pure sine wave inverter installed in my jeep. I still use that now only when I have to, instead of needing to have it turned on all the time to power up the Starlink.
Friendly Caution: The antenna emits 12Ghz radio at 4 Watts on transmit. This is done using phased array beam steering. 1st. the transmission pattern of the antenna has a significant side lobe leakage that emits forward along the plane of the antenna (Into your windscreen). 2nd the antenna steering can be as low as 60 degrees from vertical. Not quite centre of your head but very close. This steering is dynamic as the antenna tracks moving sats. I would not every consider placing a starlink antenna transmission plane (face of dish) in any orientation where it exposes humans regardless of the period of time they maybe exposed. FCC has a prescribed limit of 1.6 watts per kg for humans. The issue with the sat antenna being it is not a cell phone or a cb radio. It is a highly focused beam array that produces significant gain in the direction to which it it transmitting. I would not like to drive in your car for any significant length of time. Sorry to provide negative advice on what looks to be a very fine installation and quality work. Science just gets a little in the way for long term risk. Hope the info starts you on a journey to evaluate that risk for your self. Bet of luck.
Regarding your recommended 12v to 48v step up power converter, I happened to install the same one with the Yaosheng POE injector and cable adapter and I see frequent brief “Disconnected” messages in the Starlink app. (It works fine with the original Starlink router.) I contacted Yaosheng and asked for help in other forums and the repeated advice I’ve received is that those power converters can be problematic (including introducing noise that affects performance). The recommendation is to use a Mean Well DDR-120-48 converter instead. I’ve ordered one and hopefully that resolves my problem. Just FYI to folks that you may want to avoid that particular brand of step up converter.
I have run this setup for over a year now and I have had terrible speed issues. After a lot of troubleshooting I've determined it's either the 12 to 48 volt converter or the injector itself. I think I'll get one of these converters you're talking about and see if that solves my problem.
@@jeepNtreetop but I think it’s a different pin out on each end. Yes I know it’s included with the adapter but it won’t work if you use a regular Ethernet cable you could be in big trouble. That’s what I’ve been reading.
I just saw a video of a StarLink all in one solution where the POE, router, converter, are all installed in the same enclosure as the antenna, and all you have to do is run power to it. Makes for an easier install as all you have to do is run 12v to it The adapter you used though is pretty neat, as you don't have to cut the cable, but I think the all in one solution would be better, and you're not stuck with a whole spool of cable.
Yes that all in one is a very sweet unit. When I did my Starlink flat mount modification the all in one unit was not available so I had to come up with my own solution from off the shelf parts.
Would this same setup work with the old style round dish? I have the old style and I’m assuming it would be an easy setup because I wouldn’t have to add an rj45 to the cable since it already has one from factory.
Just tested it out and works great. Streamed from Apple TV in RV. Unable to run it from the app but the stow without app worked well and all packed away perfectly. Is there a way to use the Starlink app to see the new router and use its stow function? Is so please advise.
You can, but I just used the default options and it worked great for my small Jeep setup. Remember, you can use any 12v router of your choice that has the features that you need.
Nice video and tutorial! What amp are your power pole connectors? 30a? I would love to see a video on how you set up your configuration of the jeep using power pole connectors.
I used mainly 30a connectors for pretty much everything. I’m in the process of redesigning the electrical system and I will document the whole process. Video coming shortly.
Thanks for sharing your setup! Does the starlink wifi signal still work or do you have to use the ethernet after this. I have been assuming that the wifi still works but it would be great to have confirmation.
Was is difficult to anchor everthing to the black plate? And where do you find that plate? Seems to be the right shape and size for the job. Great video
We did this for an off-grid cabin but after powering it up, the SL app could not find the SL wifi. It found wifi for the new router, which we could not get into. Any suggestions on what we did wrong and how we can make sure we see the SL wifi? Thanks.
No since you are not using the Starlink router. You will be using the settings of the router that you choose. The Starlink app works as it did with the Starlink router.
On the POE adapter in the Amazon reviews someone said "Don’t buy; It prevents unstowing Starlink Works great right up and until you want to unstow Starlink. That doesn’t work. Once unstowed, you can do everything else including stowing it again. Have to use the Starlink router to unstow it…" Is this true? If so, couldn't you just power cycle everything? I realize this only matters for the not in motion dishes. I stow mine every time we move the RV.
To be honest, I have my dish flat mounted so I never stow/unstop my dish therefore I can’t advise you either way on this. Otherwise it has been working flawlessly so far without any issues.
@@jeepNtreetop Thanks for the reply, hopefully someone else will see this question. I am glad this works good for you. It is a nice clean solution, but I still need to figure the best way to get the cable into the travel trailer.
I don't have mine flat mounted yet. I stow it and cut the power every time I move in the van. When I turn it back on, it adjusts so I don't see using this PEO as a blocker. I just ordered all the parts he has in the video so we'll see.
Great set up & video 🤙🏽 Does the components (POE Injector & Converter) gets hot? The reason I’m asking is I’m planning to mount the inside a box together with flat mount dish. And the box will be on top of my roof rack in the sun. Was curious is it will get too hot inside the box?
The POE does not get hot at all however the 12-48v voltage converter does get a bit warm. So if you convert the voltage and then run it into your setup, you will have no issues.
The high performance large dish uses much more power than a the standard dishes do and even though I don’t own one I’d imagine that the cable and connectors might be different.
Every time someone posts about this mod there seems to be a surge to buy the products. Just keep watching the site and buy when it comes back into stock.
No, that would defeat the purpose of this setup. The starlink router runs on 110v. So if you are going to plug that in to power it you mind as well use the POE that’s in the Starlink router already.
You can do that as well as long as that power supply can provide 180w of “clean” power continuously. Most issues with 12v conversions can be traced to inadequate and unreliable power.
Hi there Thank you for this video information which I will follow and install in my vehicle. I intend to tow a caravan and was wondering what your thoughts are with re modem’s wifi range I.e. could I pick up router wifi from inside my caravan (assuming the caravan is parked next to the vehicle). Do you think this would work? Best wishes Peter
My particular router runs on usb (5v) so the converter is to further convert the 12v down to the 5v usb connection. If the router you choose runs off off of 12v you can eliminate this small buck converter.
I get all the losses, but does all that extra stuff not also draw power to just be online? How much are you saving over just running your inverter, I mean really?
My inverter draws 1.2a simply by being turned on with 0 load being applied. The Starlink router draws an additional 85watts or so from the battery so combined that’s almost 2 amps of draw off of my battery per hour. With the new 12v setup I draw less than .5a because there is no loss in voltage conversion and no need for the inverter to be powered on when I don’t need it. So you can see the original Starlink way uses 3 times the amount of power. I have a 200ahr battery bank so the new power savings is a big deal when it’s cloudy for several days and my solar can’t keep up.
Great video, thanks for sharing! I copied your setup, ordered the parts you listed, with the exception of the router, I’m using the GL.iNet GL-AXT1800. Everything is working BUT, I’m drawing about 4amps with everything powered up. The 5 amp fuse I initially used was blown so I used a 10 amp (I’ll try a 7.5 amp when I get my hands on one) and that works and I’m getting great speeds BUT the 12v - 48v converter and the router gets REALLY hot when running. It doesn’t seem normal. What size fuse are you using? And do you have any idea what I might have done wrong? Thanks
@@drua.8412 the 10a fuse should be fine if you used heavy enough wire since it’s there to protect the wire not the device. As for the heat, it’s normal for the 12-48v converter to get hot but it shouldn’t get so hot that you can’t touch it. Make sure you have it installed in a place that gets good air flow. Also turn your Starlink heaters off, that will save you some power draw.
![โอ้เธอช่าง... - บี้เดอะสกา ft. ต๋อง เทวัญ (Prod. by ป๋าเพชร) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zbWhiLFmVL0/mqdefault.jpg)
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Here are the part I used:
Cable adapter:
a.co/d/fjeZKao
POE Injector:
a.co/d/cpL1cgr
12v-48v up converter:
a.co/d/5IlMtRW
What 12V to USB-C power supply did you use?
@@spencerogden www.amazon.com/dp/B09DGDQ48H?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Do you mind sharing and update on the links to the "power pulls" you used/wired in to make this portable?
@@Skoolie_of_Fish I buy all my power pole connectors and crimping tools from these guys. You can get a “starter kit” of connectors and their crimper which will give you everything you need. You can get crumpets that are less expensive on Amazon but you get what you pay for.
powerwerx.com/
One more question: What size fuse are you using in this system?
well done - thanks for taking the time to share your inovations. Much appreciated..
Thank you for the video, yuor system is a much better option, 99% plug and play, I'm ordering all the parts and installing in my RV
Hi jeepNtreetop. Great video! Love it!!!
Wow, awesome setup, best I came across, gonna look these connectors up as well, thank you so much! Greetings, Albert 🇳🇱
nice work! I have a similar setup but I eventually just cut the cable to turn it into a rj45 connector and made it water proof.
como lo hiciste me puedes mostar
Love that background 😮
Great video saves power and makes sense.
Thanks. It’s been working great so far.
Awesome! Thanks for this! Needed this for my sailboat!
I’m glad I can help.
Great video! Easy to follow. Before you constructed this 12 V conversion, what kind of inverter were u plugging into? Modified sine wave or a regular inverter? Thanks in advance!
I have a Victron pure sine wave inverter installed in my jeep. I still use that now only when I have to, instead of needing to have it turned on all the time to power up the Starlink.
Pure genius.
Thank you
Friendly Caution: The antenna emits 12Ghz radio at 4 Watts on transmit. This is done using phased array beam steering. 1st. the transmission pattern of the antenna has a significant side lobe leakage that emits forward along the plane of the antenna (Into your windscreen). 2nd the antenna steering can be as low as 60 degrees from vertical. Not quite centre of your head but very close. This steering is dynamic as the antenna tracks moving sats. I would not every consider placing a starlink antenna transmission plane (face of dish) in any orientation where it exposes humans regardless of the period of time they maybe exposed. FCC has a prescribed limit of 1.6 watts per kg for humans. The issue with the sat antenna being it is not a cell phone or a cb radio. It is a highly focused beam array that produces significant gain in the direction to which it it transmitting. I would not like to drive in your car for any significant length of time. Sorry to provide negative advice on what looks to be a very fine installation and quality work. Science just gets a little in the way for long term risk. Hope the info starts you on a journey to evaluate that risk for your self. Bet of luck.
Great video
Regarding your recommended 12v to 48v step up power converter, I happened to install the same one with the Yaosheng POE injector and cable adapter and I see frequent brief “Disconnected” messages in the Starlink app. (It works fine with the original Starlink router.) I contacted Yaosheng and asked for help in other forums and the repeated advice I’ve received is that those power converters can be problematic (including introducing noise that affects performance). The recommendation is to use a Mean Well DDR-120-48 converter instead. I’ve ordered one and hopefully that resolves my problem. Just FYI to folks that you may want to avoid that particular brand of step up converter.
I have heard that some of those power inverters can be problematic, I however, so far have not experienced the issues that others have been reporting.
I have run this setup for over a year now and I have had terrible speed issues. After a lot of troubleshooting I've determined it's either the 12 to 48 volt converter or the injector itself. I think I'll get one of these converters you're talking about and see if that solves my problem.
How do you recharge the lithium battery? Can you please share a link to the lithium battery that you used?
My Jeep is a custom build, you can use any 12v source that is convenient in your vehicle, just make sure that it provides a stable 2 amps.
Nice video. Only thing you forgot to mention is the ( hopefully) included special Ethernet cable from the injector to the starlink adapter. Thanks
The little short one? It’s not special since the pinout switch is done inside the adapter but it is included anyway. 👍
@@jeepNtreetop but I think it’s a different pin out on each end. Yes I know it’s included with the adapter but it won’t work if you use a regular Ethernet cable you could be in big trouble. That’s what I’ve been reading.
Well done! Thanks 👌🏽
Hi. Best explanation on TH-cam.
Can you share the dimensions of your board with height? Would like to fit in a Pelican case. Thx
I just saw a video of a StarLink all in one solution where the POE, router, converter, are all installed in the same enclosure as the antenna, and all you have to do is run power to it. Makes for an easier install as all you have to do is run 12v to it
The adapter you used though is pretty neat, as you don't have to cut the cable, but I think the all in one solution would be better, and you're not stuck with a whole spool of cable.
Yes that all in one is a very sweet unit. When I did my Starlink flat mount modification the all in one unit was not available so I had to come up with my own solution from off the shelf parts.
where is the video?
@@agps4418
th-cam.com/video/5VZdjX0f-AU/w-d-xo.html
Would this same setup work with the old style round dish? I have the old style and I’m assuming it would be an easy setup because I wouldn’t have to add an rj45 to the cable since it already has one from factory.
Just tested it out and works great. Streamed from Apple TV in RV. Unable to run it from the app but the stow without app worked well and all packed away perfectly. Is there a way to use the Starlink app to see the new router and use its stow function? Is so please advise.
Used the same yaosheng kit. It worked at first but buy 9pm starlink disconnects and it didnt get fixed. Faulty product?
Most issues are traced to the 12-48v voltage converter. Make sure you are getting the correct voltage output and connect directly to your battery
@@jeepNtreetop I used a multimeter its output is 48v
How is this working today and do you still recommend all the parts?
Great video. Do you have to configure the new router before using it, like putting in a password and such? Thanks.
You can, but I just used the default options and it worked great for my small Jeep setup. Remember, you can use any 12v router of your choice that has the features that you need.
Nice video and tutorial! What amp are your power pole connectors? 30a? I would love to see a video on how you set up your configuration of the jeep using power pole connectors.
I used mainly 30a connectors for pretty much everything. I’m in the process of redesigning the electrical system and I will document the whole process. Video coming shortly.
@@jeepNtreetop many thanks for the quick reply and details. Looking forward to your next video 👍🏼👍🏼
How did set up the router in the PC settings cable, repeater, 3g,4g modem, tethering?
Thanks for sharing your setup! Does the starlink wifi signal still work or do you have to use the ethernet after this. I have been assuming that the wifi still works but it would be great to have confirmation.
If what you are referring to is the Starlink app, the answer is yes. No issues.
If what you are referring to is the Starlink app, the answer is yes. No issues.
Was is difficult to anchor everthing to the black plate? And where do you find that plate? Seems to be the right shape and size for the job. Great video
Or perhaps just the dimensions
That rear plate is made by Starmount systems. The tire rack is made by American Adventure Labs.
We did this for an off-grid cabin but after powering it up, the SL app could not find the SL wifi. It found wifi for the new router, which we could not get into. Any suggestions on what we did wrong and how we can make sure we see the SL wifi? Thanks.
Do you need to enable the bypass starlink router and turn off the starlink wifi by the starlink APP
No since you are not using the Starlink router. You will be using the settings of the router that you choose. The Starlink app works as it did with the Starlink router.
On the POE adapter in the Amazon reviews someone said "Don’t buy; It prevents unstowing Starlink
Works great right up and until you want to unstow Starlink. That doesn’t work. Once unstowed, you can do everything else including stowing it again. Have to use the Starlink router to unstow it…"
Is this true? If so, couldn't you just power cycle everything? I realize this only matters for the not in motion dishes. I stow mine every time we move the RV.
To be honest, I have my dish flat mounted so I never stow/unstop my dish therefore I can’t advise you either way on this. Otherwise it has been working flawlessly so far without any issues.
@@jeepNtreetop Thanks for the reply, hopefully someone else will see this question. I am glad this works good for you. It is a nice clean solution, but I still need to figure the best way to get the cable into the travel trailer.
I don't have mine flat mounted yet. I stow it and cut the power every time I move in the van. When I turn it back on, it adjusts so I don't see using this PEO as a blocker. I just ordered all the parts he has in the video so we'll see.
@@cyberliferrr Looking forward to see/hear your assesment of the setup without flatmounting it.
@@kissowoverland8807 I'll be posting a video on my @cyber_van_life account
Nice clean portable install, good job. How did you setup the Gl.inet config settings?.
Great set up & video 🤙🏽
Does the components (POE Injector & Converter) gets hot? The reason I’m asking is I’m planning to mount the inside a box together with flat mount dish. And the box will be on top of my roof rack in the sun. Was curious is it will get too hot inside the box?
The POE does not get hot at all however the 12-48v voltage converter does get a bit warm. So if you convert the voltage and then run it into your setup, you will have no issues.
Have you noticed any issues with bandwidth or network reliability with this setup?
None at all.
@@jeepNtreetop sweet, thanks for letting me know! I just ordered all the parts. I'm hoping for at least 40% power reduction!
The new routers is wifi 6, right? the Starlink router in the Gen 2 is not.
Question:when running the line from the POE to the router, what port on the router is connected, the wide area port or one of the local area ports?
The WAN is for hooking up your Starlink to. All your other “local” (local area network) plug into the “LAN” ports.
So this method will not work for the High Performance Sat Dish huh? I have every component in this video but my sat cable doesn't fit..
The high performance large dish uses much more power than a the standard dishes do and even though I don’t own one I’d imagine that the cable and connectors might be different.
Hi, I'm Alex from YaoSheng company. Thank you for this great video. How can I contact you to ask some questions?
Nice!!!!!Where can I by this adaptor ?
I pinned the links in the comment above and put them in the description as well.
great video. I see the adapter is out of stock. Any alternative?
Every time someone posts about this mod there seems to be a surge to buy the products. Just keep watching the site and buy when it comes back into stock.
is this for gen3 or older gen2?
What is a the model of your cargo rack? Nice setup!
The rear cargo rack is made by American Adventure Labs.
Aan de vier pootjes van het frame heb ik 4 magneten gemonteerd (boutjes niet te vast plaatwerk auto is niet vlak) AMAZON ca 12 euro
any special settings in the router to get this to work as my one is same but wont work.
great stuff, appreciate if you can share a parts list please.
I just updated the description with Amazon links. Thanks for watching.
@@jeepNtreetop much appreciated and thanks for sharing with the wider community
If you still wanted to use the Starlink router, but wanted to use battery power, could you just use the poe with the battery?
No, that would defeat the purpose of this setup. The starlink router runs on 110v. So if you are going to plug that in to power it you mind as well use the POE that’s in the Starlink router already.
Couldn’t I just get a renogy 48v power pack and plug the dish into that?
You can do that as well as long as that power supply can provide 180w of “clean” power continuously. Most issues with 12v conversions can be traced to inadequate and unreliable power.
Hi there
Thank you for this video information which I will follow and install in my vehicle. I intend to tow a caravan and was wondering what your thoughts are with re modem’s wifi range I.e. could I pick up router wifi from inside my caravan (assuming the caravan is parked next to the vehicle).
Do you think this would work?
Best wishes
Peter
Can I wire it to 12v cigarette lighter style plug instead of power poles?
Sure you can, just make sure your wiring is heavy enough to handle the needed power draw of the power supply.
Why the 12V converter for the router - why not use the 12V from the vehicle??
My particular router runs on usb (5v) so the converter is to further convert the 12v down to the 5v usb connection. If the router you choose runs off off of 12v you can eliminate this small buck converter.
I get all the losses, but does all that extra stuff not also draw power to just be online? How much are you saving over just running your inverter, I mean really?
My inverter draws 1.2a simply by being turned on with 0 load being applied. The Starlink router draws an additional 85watts or so from the battery so combined that’s almost 2 amps of draw off of my battery per hour. With the new 12v setup I draw less than .5a because there is no loss in voltage conversion and no need for the inverter to be powered on when I don’t need it. So you can see the original Starlink way uses 3 times the amount of power. I have a 200ahr battery bank so the new power savings is a big deal when it’s cloudy for several days and my solar can’t keep up.
Great video, thanks for sharing!
I copied your setup, ordered the parts you listed, with the exception of the router, I’m using the GL.iNet GL-AXT1800. Everything is working BUT, I’m drawing about 4amps with everything powered up. The 5 amp fuse I initially used was blown so I used a 10 amp (I’ll try a 7.5 amp when I get my hands on one) and that works and I’m getting great speeds BUT the 12v - 48v converter and the router gets REALLY hot when running. It doesn’t seem normal. What size fuse are you using? And do you have any idea what I might have done wrong? Thanks
@@drua.8412 the 10a fuse should be fine if you used heavy enough wire since it’s there to protect the wire not the device. As for the heat, it’s normal for the 12-48v converter to get hot but it shouldn’t get so hot that you can’t touch it. Make sure you have it installed in a place that gets good air flow. Also turn your Starlink heaters off, that will save you some power draw.
That’s what it’s like when addicted to the internet.
Could you use the Starlink Ethernet adapter for the Poe?
No you cannot. That Ethernet adapter doesn’t supply power
@@jeepNtreetop ok thanks
Do you have to do anything with the app?
No not at all.
No not at all. App works as it did before.
What router did you use?
No fuses required?
The power line that feeds that panel is fused. I don’t have each item fused but you can certainly do that.
How do you recharge the lithium battery? Can you please share a link to the lithium battery that you used?
So nice ! thanks ⭐🛰