Ender 3 V2 Hot end Fix
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ม.ค. 2022
- How to get a tighter bowden tube seal on your Ender 3 V2 hot end to eliminate flow problems that cause gaps in your prints due to under extrusion. Frequent clicking from the extruder gear is an indication that trouble is starting. You'll start to notice gaps in your prints.
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.STL Parts Files - drive.google.com/uc?export=do...
VB Custom Start G-Code for Ender 3 V2 - drive.google.com/file/d/14J7d...
3D printer I would buy today:
My Ultimate Ender 3 V2 Build List -
3D Printer:
Ender 3 V2 - amzn.to/3BF2XwF
Upgrades:
Creality CR-Touch - amzn.to/3AFBytd
Micro Swiss dual gear extruder kit - amzn.to/3quGWx6
Creality 3D Printer Accessories Kit - amzn.to/3wuaq1Q
Ender 3 V2 Anti Backlash Nut with Lead Screw Support - amzn.to/3opukWR
Bearing Set - amzn.to/3ay5sVF
Voltage Converters (Buck) - amzn.to/3vZN56W
G10 Garolite Build Surface - amzn.to/3tNSGg8
Super Quiet Upgrades & How-to Video:
4 Dunlop Squash Balls (Need 2 Sets of 3) - amzn.to/32jPqhH
Noctua 40x10mm Fans (Need 2) - amzn.to/3JjSTxq
Noctua 80x25mm Fan - amzn.to/3Jk2u7i
• Ender 3 V2 Near Silent...
3D Printable Files - drive.google.com/file/d/1EP_I...
Custom 300-degree firmware and complete install video:
Ender 3 V2 Jyers Custom Firmware - drive.google.com/uc?export=do...
• Ender 3 V2 Assembly, U...
CHEP TH-cam video on how to keep clogs from happening - • Simple HOTEND FIX for ...
Nozzle Torque Wrench by Perinski on Thingiverse: www.thingiverse.com/thing:433...
Creality CR10 hotend fix by Zvedak on Thingiverse:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:496...
Thank you for watching! - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
I've had my V2 Neo going for about a year, and I was going nuts trying to figure out why my hotend started leaking since I followed the same exact instructions I had previously followed all the other times I replaced the nozzle and bowden tube. Thank you so so much for making this super informative but also concise enough to follow along. Cheers man, you're an absolute legend!
Hi buddy, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Yeah, it's a major flaw out of the box and I'm sure it's turned many people away from the hobby because of it.
3D printing is amazing :) Best of luck with your mods!
@@vbared I only wish I had come across this video earlier so I could've already had the jig and washer printed out lol. I just got the hot end removed and all disassembled. Once I get back from the store I'm going to inspect everything and see if the heat block needs replacing. Thanks again and I made sure to subscribe to your channel!
@@livefreeprintguns I appreciate your support, just ask if you run into any trouble. I'm glad to help.
Wow, brilliant job with this! I've been scared to dive deep into hotend work, but this made it look easy!
Hello Rob, Thank you for commenting and kind words of encouragement. I'm glad you found value for your viewing time. I can't take the credit for this solution that I came across on CHEP TH-cam channel. Chuck came across it somewhere else but I wanted to share my experience with it and explain it as clearly as possible along with tweaking the original .STL file designs to work better. It solved the bowden seal problem for me.
Best of luck with your projects!
The Best Instructional "HOW TO" vid for my Ender 3 v2
so far. This is Awesome. Thank you.
.
Hello Scott, Thank you for commenting a kind words of encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time.
Best of luck with your projects!
Thanks again for the great support yesterday, big advances on my end. :)
Today the EZFlex 2 bed mat was installed, the Hot End was removed and cleaned. I installed a 31.5mm Capricorn tube and your centering bushing as well as new nozzle and PTFE PCM10 fitting. Z offset was established and then a manual 4 point level followed by a "New Mesh", those numbers were tight with a range of 0.00 Center to 0.06 Left Rear. Which is really the front of the Ender3 V2 from where I sit !
Your file Z-Offset Calibration Squares printed flawless from Let the purge begin! to Autobots! Roll Out. The starting Z was -1.031 and the final Z offset was -1.29. The final was 4 perfect and 5 that where during the Z changes. They were close but no cigar.
The second set of squares is running now and with no changes to Z they all look great. Vector you are the MAN!
Now where that pesky Mellow Top All Metal CR10 HotEnd?
Doc'
Hi Doug, It was my pleasure to share from my experiences. Glad you've made such good progress since we spoke. You'll love it, the part is well made and kit is complete. Let me know how it performs for you.
Enjoy your day!
Hi Victor, I have just finished up the Hotend modifications and was able to work around the Element set screw that still is frozen in the heat block. I needed to use a 28.8mm length of tubing to aquire the 3/4 mm over hang on the heat break. I assembled everything and then used the top PTFE fitting to make the overall seating. The insert and 28.8mm tubing fit perfect together. This is a great modification for the Hotend. After homing, checking the level and a test print everything works great. Now on to the next modification. Thank You again Victor.
Doc'
Hi Doc, Great job in completing the seal mod. You're going to find that as you complete the meaningful mods less time will be spent on maintenance and more on creating new things to print.
Enjoy your day (:
Very interesting, I'm dealing with this issue at the moment. Thank you!
Hi Tim, Thank you for commenting.
The seal problem will be a non issue after you apply this fix. I've been running my print farm machines for over 8 months without a single hotend service. Before I found this fix they would need some type of maintenance every couple of hundred hours of printing. Make sure to add some thermal paste to the out side of the heat break sleeve before inserting it into the heat sink bore. This will eliminate the possibility of heat creep.
Best of luck with your mods!
@@vbared Appreciate the extra tips, thanks! I rebuilt the stock hot end today following your video, just so I could print out the .stl's you uploaded. I have a bunch of parts arriving tomorrow including new PTFE tube so I'll be rewatching again when they arrive to build it better.
Just finished watching your Noctua upgrade video tonight too, another thing added to my to do list now :)
E3v2 user. All good when first started printing with my stock v2. Then after a year or so noticed blobs around the nozzle.
Carried out this mod, printed a PETG print for 12 hours, removed the hotend sock - no leakage. Very happy chappy, thank you Victor :D .
Fun tip - change out that v2 glass bed for a sheet of G10 - so much easier with PETG!
Hello Brendan, Thank you for commenting and kindness. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. The G10 build surface is a real game changer.
Best of luck with your mods!
Superb info and solid info. Thank you very much.
Hello Sir Rodney, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time.
Best of luck with your mods :)
this couldn't have come at a better time. started having this problem last night. wnet to bed trying to figure out how to fix it. woke up this morning and boom there was the answer
Hello 241cfii, Thank you for commenting. I'm glad you came across this video. I originally saw this method on Chuck's (CHEP TH-cam channel) and immediately knew it was the solution creating a longer lasting PTFE to nozzle seal than just relying on the pneumatic coupler jaws to keep it in place.
Best of luck with your repair!
Thanks for another great video. I really prefer this way of installing the short piece of Boden tube. I will be doing this to mine.
Hello Steve, Thank you for commenting and kind words. When I first saw this fix on Chuck's channel I realized, like you, that it would create a more robust seal.
Best of luck with your mods!
@Victor Bared I really like Filament Fridays. I have gotten a lot of good info from him. I am having trouble with a new CR Touch. During the Create new mesh, it will turn red and stop the process. It does it in a different spot each time. It will eventually finish. Already talked to the seller, guess a replacement is in order.
@@stevesweb Hi Steve, I've had this happen to me a few times after I've messed with the bed. Did the CR-TOUCH ever work properly for you? If not I would check the each of the end to end connections with a multimeter to make sure you don't have a bad connection on any of the wires. If the connections all check out then reset the EPROM manually level the bed and then create a new mesh. If none of the aforementioned suggestions work them It could just be a faulty probe like you're thinking.
Best of luck with your repair.
Hi Victor, Great video on the Hotend, I'm new to 3D printing and have been going crazy trying to get my bed leveled . After watching your video I tackled the Hotend to find out it was full of burned filament to the point that I ordered a new one and am waitint for it to come so that I can try your modifications out. Thank you for sharing this great information.
Hi Jim,
Welcome to one of the most amazing hobbies. Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Have you resolved the leveling issue? Let me know I might be able to save you some time. Great job finding the beginnings of a potential hotend clog. If you're interested in eliminating that seal inside the heat block possibility altogether then consider the hotend linked below. It's pricey but worth it to never have to fix a clog again. Linked below that is a video I made on what makes it a game changer for 3D printing.
Revo CR 24v hotend - e3d-online.com/products/revo-creality?variant=40076651790395
th-cam.com/video/4uJ20Sc73Wc/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the response. I finally got it working. I did a dual Z axis, new hot end, CR touch bed leveling, and new springs on bed. I now have it leveled to zero on all four corners and it is printing a project out perfectly. I will send photo when I complete it. It is something that I made for my granddaughter's desk where she teaches a dual language class in Illinois.
@@jimjohnson1944 Hi Jim, that's awesome, upgrades are one of my favorite things about 3D printing. Yes, please, I'd love to see what you created for your daughter.
Enjoy the rest of your week!
Hi Jim, Awesome news, Yeah, I'd love to see one of your projects email me.
vbared@gmail.com
Enjoy your weekend!
Thanks.. this helps me a lot!
Hello RaoniMendonca, Thank you for your kind comment. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time.
Best of luck with your mods!
Very well explained. That will help me to improve my print quality.
Hello aglandorf75, Thank you for commenting and words of encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. If you run into any questions about 3D printing, just ask. I'm still learning new things and would be happy to share my experiences to save you time and frustration. Just add thermal paste to stop heat creep like my video below shows. I haven't had to mess with my hotends since adding it.
th-cam.com/video/3v_cEldgT4U/w-d-xo.html
Best of luck with your projects!
@@vbared Got my Ender 3 v2 a few months ago. Also watched some videos from Chad who helped me a lot. Print quality is good so far but I think now it's time for a bit maintenance and to add a second stepper motor for the z axis.
@@aglandorf75 It's an awesome hobby, I enjoy it very much. Let me know how the extra stepper motor on the z-axis works for you.
Best of luck with your mods!
excellent. thanks so much
Hello Hojen321, Thank you for your kind comment. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time.
Best of luck with your upgrades :)
Thank you! It’s helped me more than you know
Hi Carlin, Thank you for commenting and kindness. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time.
Best of luck with your mods!
Amazing content. Thank you!
Hi friend, Thank you for commenting and encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Best of luck with your mods :)
Great Job on the hot end sealing. I have printed the 31mm cutter and the two seals but I'm not sure which one to use. My Ender3 V2 hot end looks just like yours so when it cools off the disassembly will start and measurements will let me know I guess. Nice to know what that little needle tool is for. You have made the modification look do-able for a beginner like me and what a great class.
I can see that a leveling system is going to be a must to get to the print quality your achieving. Hardware first though. Thanks again Victor.
Doc'
Hi Doc, Thank you for the kind words. The CR-Touch upgrade is well worth the money in the time it saves you from not having to mess with leveling wheels again after the first manual calibration after the CR-Touch install. I'm not sure if you saw my build and silent mod videos linked below yet.
Ender 3 V2 full build - th-cam.com/video/amRldRpnK2Y/w-d-xo.html
Making the Ender 3 V2 near silent - th-cam.com/video/ycvHpMbo5Hw/w-d-xo.html
Best of luck with your projects!
Did you figure out which tube cutter you needed in the end?
Great video! I plant to do this until I get an all metal hotend, haven't had any major issues but I do suspect a tiny clog because my filament doesn't come straight out. Oh and I recommend you try out the 15x15 UBL its so much faster to print stuff not having to wait for it do the whole probing process. It just does 3-4 points for bed tilt/position and then it prints!
Hi Riley, Thank you for commenting and kind words. As soon as I started to hear the extruder gears clicking I knew it wouldn't be long before it showed up in the prints. Sure enough those two jobs that were running had a couple of areas with layer gaps. Catching and resolving these issues early is key to avoiding a complete oozing blowout mess. The 15X15 UBL is one of the Jyers firmware? Waiting on a 9 point probe does waste a great deal of daily production time.
Thank you for the info!
Awesome, this helps , thank you
Hi Glenncol, I'm glad you found value for your viewing time.
Best of luck with your upgrades!
Happy New Year Victor
Another great video. What is the probe you have installed?
Thanks
Hello Mark,
Happy New Year!
Thank you for commenting and words of encouragement. I'm using the Creality CR Touch.
Best of luck with your projects!
Great video. I am just getting ready to start this 3D printing journey so I am watching alot of different peoples videos while waiting for my Ender to arrive. I like your tube cutter design but I have a suggestion. Could you duplicate your cutter slot on the other end. You could slide the tube all the way through to the second slot, cut it square, leave that blade in as a stop while cutting the other end, then pull both blades and push everything out the other end.
Hello Gregory, Thank you for commenting and kind words. Your idea is an awesome one. I added it to the original file link in the description to help others and below for you.
drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=14J-NiF--RXaoeVncX_smQIkredvSXkR_
Best of luck with your projects!
This helped allot thank you
Hi Carlin, I'm glad you were able to extract value from this video.
Best of luck with your mods!
Great job! Your attention to detail and the determine root cause is top notch. I didn’t think about the ptfe tube loosening at the top of the heat sink and allowing a gap between the ptfe tube and the nozzle. BTW, What firmware are you running? Is it Jyers? I am running that but with the 9 point manual mesh. I have yet to install the CR touch.
Hello John, Thank you for commenting and kind words of encouragement. Yes, those jaws inside the pneumatic fitting that grabs the bowden tube digs into it over time as the tube rotates due to the print head's movement. Yes, I'm running Jyers on one of my Ender 3 V2s and recently installed Klipper on the other. The CR-Touch is super accurate at creating the bed mesh.
Best of luck with your mods!
@@vbared Thanks for the quick reply, Victor. I noticed that the graphics on the display are enhanced vs. the ones I have with my Jyers. Are you using a different Dwinset? Just curious.
@@johnacello7112 Hi John, If I remember correctly I believe it was the Jyers Gotcha DWIN that I used. It's located in one of the folders included in the Jyres source file.
Thanks for the interesting and informative content! Got a lot of interesting stuff.))) One question - what plastic did you make the "Hotend Insert X.Xmm Bowden Opening" out of and how does it behave over time? Thanks!)))
Hello Бурбыциан Бурбыцианович, Thank you for commenting and kindness. I used PETG but PLA would work just fine since it's so far away from the heat block. I haven't had any trouble with them on any of my machines.
Best of luck with your mods!
@@vbared And thank you for the quick answer!))) This is exactly what I wanted to hear. And thanks again for your channel, very interesting. With pleasure and interest I watch everything in a row.)))
👍
Great, thanks.
Hi Antonio, Thank you for commenting. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time.
Best of luck with your mods!
Great video. This would probably help with using abs too right? I'm new to 3d printing but figuring if it's working for pteg temps it should work for abs.
Hi Joe, Thank you for commenting and kind words of encouragement. I print PETG at 230 using Capricorn all the way down into the heat block and it's holding up just fine. Make sure to use a good quality thermal paste on the outside of the heat break (top part only held by the grub screw) so it can transfer heat efficiently to the heatsink. Don't use is on the side that threads into the heat block. Lastly a little thermal paste on brass nozzle threads into the heat block but not on the mating surfaces that seal the nozzle to the bowden lined heat brake. This will eliminate heat creep during long prints.
Best of luck with your build!
Another great video.. i'm trying to find the all metak hot end you used in this video, Do you have a link for it please
Good morning Rav, The hotend I'm using in this video is the stock one that comes on the Ender 3 V2 which isn't all metal because the PTFE tube goes all the way down into the heat block and is what creates the seal between the nozzle and heat break. To get an all metal hotend you would need to either change out the stock heat break for a Slice Engineering bi-metal heat break or replace the whole hotend. If you are just starting to get into 3D printing then get the Slice Engineering bi-metal heat break but if you are more advanced or enjoy a more challenging installation then get the E3D V6 all- metal hotend kit.
I use an E3D V6 all-metal hotend (linked below) on one of my Ender 3 V2s and it has been completely trouble free for the last 9 months and has thousands of printing hours on it.
It doesn't directly fit the Ender 3 V2 but I made a video on how I installed mine and have links to to all the parts needed in the video description.
Slice Engineering heat break that fits the stock Creality MK8 hotends - www.sliceengineering.com/collections/replacement-parts/products/copperhead-heat-break
Slice Engineering bi-metal heat break install video - th-cam.com/video/3v_cEldgT4U/w-d-xo.html
E3D V6 all-metal hotend - amzn.to/3APuBb4
E3D V6 installation on the Ender 3 V2 - th-cam.com/video/dZz-eR3d5YE/w-d-xo.html
amzn.to/3APuBb4
Great video, which size did you use? For both. Thanks
Hello Joshua, Thank you for commenting and words of encouragement. I used the 30.50mm for both of mine but wasn't sure if the tooling is exact on all the stock MK8 hot ends so I added a few longer ones. It needs to stick out about .5mm to .75mm from the heat break before installing and torqueing down the nozzle. Lots of videos out there including some of my early ones say to torque the tip down hot (what the manufacturers recommend) but the machine that I torqued down cold in the video is still running jobs with no issues. The one that I did hot had to be redone already after a couple of hundred hours of printing. Try different ways and you'll find one that works for you.
Best of luck with your mods!
This looks great, but i believe the nozzle should be threaded in a much as possible to maximize the conduction between heat block and nozzle.
Hello ResistCircuitResist, Thank you for commenting and kind words. In my experience I've found that it's important to leave this small gap because you want the nozzle sealing pressure to be against the bowden tube and heat break. Not having a strong enough seal between the aforementioned points will result in melted filament getting into the gap, crystalizing, restricting flow, causing under extrusion and clogs. You'll know if this is the case when you see melted filament oozing from the threads above or below the het block.
Best of luck with your projects!
That’s any interesting way to fine tune the Z-offset. I’ve never seen it done like that before, where’ did you get the STL with the 9 squares which I will assume are 20x20mm
Hello Gramps Ramblings, Thank you for commenting. I created them in Onshape and they are 30x30mm each. I couldn't figure out how to get Cura to slice them at .2mm (one layer) so I had to make them .4mm so I could get a .gcode file out of Cura that would print. It prints one square at a time and I making adjustments to the z-offsets per square as it goes. Just before it goes back to the first square to print the next layer I stop the print and compare the results. I've found that If I just rely on the paper or .1 feeler gauge I'm too low and the result is stringing and blobs that accumulate on the nozzle sides.
Best of luck with your projects!
Very informative on many levels, thank you. The Z-offset is what I most likely need to do, methinks. Would there be any issue with putting enough Bowden tube length to go from the extruder to the nozzle without cutting a separate piece? Simply curious.
Hello Chef Dan, Thank you for commenting and words of encouragement. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Great question, the small metal jaws inside the pneumatic fitting cut into the bowden tube as the print head moves around. After awhile of printing a gap will develop where those jaws grab the tube. This causes the bowden tube to move up and down during retractions. When the tube goes all the way down into the hotend that slack from above breaks the seal between the Bowden tube and nozzle. The molten filament will fill the small gap, crystalize and over time create a blockage. The first signs of trouble will come from the extruder tensioner clicking, shortly after you're going to notice gaps in your prints due to under extrusion, and finally a clogged hotend.
The tube section in the video will get its nozzle sealing pressure from the much stronger pneumatic fitting's threads instead combined with the small centering washer inside instead the those small metal jaws. Any slack created by the jaws of the pneumatic fitting won't affect the nozzle seal.
Best of luck with your mods!
I believe I see your point. The internal piece won't really move that much if at all, but the upper one will because of extruder movement, it may pull it out or damage it otherwise because the filament is skintight inside the tube.
@@ChefDansHookah Exactly!
Is it ok to print the part for the heat sink in PLA or do I need something more high temp?
Hello Darren, Thank you for commenting. The little collar under the pneumatic fitting can be PLA. The top part of the heatsink shouldn't get very hot at all provided the heatsink fan is running properly.
Sorry to be tardy to this party, but I just got an Ender 3 V2, basically the same one you have. I bought mine from a pawn shop for $175. I’ve never done 3D and know nothing of it but couldn’t pass up the price of this one, at the time. Although I wanted to learn 3D printing and was looking to purchase the CETUS Mark3, but since buying this one, I think I’m good with the Ender, as a beginner.
I found this video and processes to be quite informative, and will incorporate them in my machine, but I wanted to ask about the washer. Though I don’t know anything about 3D printers/printing…yet. I am experienced in machining and have my own home machine shop. Having the capability of machining my own washer, do you think it’d be okay to make one out of Delrin (acetal)?
Hi Eddie, Thank you for commenting. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Welcome to the most amazing hobby and tool you'll ever own. If you can visualize the basics of a part you need then working with CAD will help you fine tune the design and the 3D printer will make it physical so you can verify fitment and finalize the design.
Getting back your question, yes if you can machine the part it will work the same. BTW great job picking an Ender 3 V2, I run 4 of them constantly and would still pick up another today if I needed more. Once properly calibrated it will produce great prints. When you get ready for upgrades just ask. I'll point you to my current upgrades that have made 3D printing a piece of cake and the printer reliable.
Enjoy the hobby, it's a blast.
Is anybody able to advise me of the correct size tube cutter and ring for the standard ender 3 v2 hot end? The only thing I have different is I have a Capricorn tube like in the video. The smaller of the 2 rings seem to be a better fit. I’m just not sure about the tube cutter. Many thanks in advanced
Hello Bradley, Thank you for commenting. If you only have the one printer then I would print the various cutting jigs so you can have each size available when you take the machine apart. The right length will stick out of the heat break between .5 to .75mm
Call me 478-227-3301 if you need more details
i looked at your files and dont see the stl for the torque wrench.ty Doug
found it
Perfect!
Hi Doug, Thank you for commenting. Glad you found the link to the torque wrench.
Best of luck with your mods!
I downloaded the zip file for the tubing jig. When I opened the files in Cura all the jigs were the same overall length. What about the jig makes the cutting length change? Is it the slot for the knife?
Hello Papa's Place, Thank you for commenting. The length differences are with the bowden tube end stops in each jig. I didn't change the overall length on many of them.
The cross cut and diagonal slots are designed for an standard utility blade.
Best of luck with your mods!
thanks for this great video... i'm trying to make this work but after a few hours of printing, i'm back to underextrusion & clogged tubes. the lower part of the tube is 0.5mm longer than the heat break as in the video and i tried several cutting tools for the straightest cut. i can't get it straighter than it is (even if it isn't exactly straight cut).
but still: why do i still get underextrusion & clogging?
Hello Narf444, Thank you for commenting and kindness. Are you using the bowden cut jigs that I made? They should cut the tube straight. Another thing to look out for is to make sure that after your nozzle is tightened that you can see a small gap between the flat side of the nozzle and the heat block. If there is no gap visible then take it back apart twist the heat block clockwise about a 1/4 turn and try again. You may need to loosen the grub screw that holds the heat break to the heatsink, straighten things out, and tightening the grub screw. What heatsink fan are you using stock or Noctua?
Give me a call +1 478-227-3301 for more details.
@@vbared thank you for your kind answer. i tried your tools and many more but the cut was never exactly straight. my last try seemed to be ok. i don't have any filament in any gaps BUT i removed 5mm of filament from my PTFE tube. so i'm having a heat creep (i guess) or is that normal? I don't have any other printers to compare. (well, i have to say that i heated the hotend to remove the filament AFTER i removed the fan housing. so i guess, THAT heat creep is just normal)
i'm using a noctua 40x40x10 for the hotend and a noctua 40x40x20 as a part fan. it worked totally fine for a few weeks of non-stop-printing with the stock PTFE setup. now that i applied this fix (and used capricorn for the last 31mm) suddenly it won't work anymore.
Hi Narf444, It does sound like heat creep could be the problem. Check out my video below that addresses this problem. I'm using a all metal heat break in the video but it works the same with a PTFE lined tube. This has solved the heat creep issues for me. I can print non stop for 5 months without having to do anything.
th-cam.com/video/3v_cEldgT4U/w-d-xo.html
On the jig issue, does the Capricorn tube fit snug into the jig or is it loose? If loose try to make the Z and Y 1% smaller using the scale tool in CURA. Uncheck Uniform Scaling and change Z and Y to 99%. Keep playing with the scale until the tube fits snug. It sounds like the tube is moving around in the jig while you are trying to cut it.
@@vbared yes, in the meantime, i ordered a bi-metal heatbreak. i just have to wait another week to use my printer again.
about the jig: yes, it wasn't snug and i could've played with the scaling. but i guess, the clean cut is not the problem anymore.
thanks again for your help :)
I did not realize until I started this project that it is an upgrade to the original way the PTFE tubing seated at the cone. Am I correct to think that this upgrade will be a forever one and the 31mm tube will need replacing on a regular PM schedule?
To Date Victor I have done the following upgrades
Jyers custom firmware for the M.B. and the Display
The Yellow Leveling Springs
from TH3D, the Aluminum Extruder V2 and steel gear, the PTFE PC4- M4 & M10 fittings and PTFE blue tubing as well as the EZFlex2 Pei plate and magnetic base.
The offset angle side bracket for the Filament spool.
regarding the spool upgrade I still need to produce the bearing assembly for the spool to rotate on, do you have any thoughts for which one would work the best?
Top shelf Victor you are
Doc'
Hi Doc, Your mods are right on point, great job. Once you do the hotend mods you won't have to mess with it unless you wear out a nozzle or something. The PTFE tube seal will hold up with no problem so long as you aren't planning to print hotter than 240c. If you decide to print over 240c then swap out the heat break to the Slice Engineering Bi-Metal one. Just use caution and take care not to overtighten the two long screws that keep the heat block from rotating because the stainless steel throat of the bi-metal heat break can get pressed out of position.
I tried the bearing spool rollers and personally didn't like it at all. What works best for me and I use on all my printers is this Thingiverse file linked below that is well designed, centers the spool on the stock tube, and rolls smoothly while providing some drag to keep the filament from unwinding. The bearing versions don't center the spool and roll so easily that the filament starts unraveling.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4415166
Best of luck with your projects!
@@vbared Victor, while starting to do this hotend mod I found that the heater element set screw is frozen in place. The 1.5mm Allen tool won't budge it at all, any thoughts?
@@vbared Thank you Victor for the spool file and the experience that keeps me from re-inventing the wheel.
@@doctrainsmodifications5201 Hi Doc, turn on the printer and set the hotend to 160, shut it off and try again before it cools. The grub screw is going to be tight just make sure the Allen key is all the way in. If it still won't budget put some liquid wrench on a Qtip and touch the grub screw leave it for 30 minutes warm up the hotend again to 160 and try again to remove it. Repeat the Qtip process if needed, eventually it will break free.
@@vbared Hi Victor, Thank you for the thoughts and I tried your suggestions with several different penetrating fluids and at about 175 deg but I must say Murphy won out. I did a work around by leaving the heater block intact and working the other components. I used a small stand vise to secure the heater block and worked from there. My confidence is much better after this modification. I'm printing the spool center fixture now that you suggested so that spool modification well be complete. Thanks again for all you help. Dang I lost you number.. getting old is not for the faint of heart. Doc'
do this hack require the E step calibration?
Hello umarsantosoo, Thank you for commenting. This mod won't affect the e-steps if you already calibrated it for your machine.
Best of luck with your mods!
what's the measurement of cutting tube mine is 30.2 is that correct? and This little gap filler cap is 4.4
Hello Ekrem, Thank you for commenting. The file link in the description will contain cutting jigs from 30.5 to 31mm. Use the one that leaves about .50 to .75mm of tube sticking out of the heat break before installing the heat block (like I show in the video).
I'll check the CAD for for the exact height of the cap and let you know.
Best of luck with your mods!
I keep having this problem where the filament stops coming out of the hotend and only continues when i push it on from the extruder side. Also the whole time the print quality is terrible. any idea what that is?
Hello Linayat, Thank you for commenting. Try another test print and pay attention to the what the extruder is doing when the problem occurs. Is it clicking or not moving at all? If clicking check to make sure the filament roll can turn easily and there isn't anything keeping it from feeding smoothly. Should the motor appear like it isn't running at all then check and make sure that the connections are good and non of the wires are loose or broken. If nothing above seems to be the issue then take apart the hotend clean us the parts and apply the fix i mention in the video.
I have to ask, if the solution is to use sections of PTFE tubing, then why not just use a metal pipe the same size as the PTFE tube you cut? Even Capricorn tubing has its limits on higher temps.
Hello Broderp, Thank you for commenting and awesome question. A titanium tube with a polished inside might work. A PTFE tube lining doesn't conduct heat, is super slippery, and provides the seal because is gets soft when heated. A solid steel tube would conduct more heat and lacks the slippery inside surface. All metal hotend sleeves are made using a titanium alloy or a combination of copper and super thin wall and slim stainless steel tube neck, which limits how much heat can be transferred up to the heatsink. The bi-metal copper sleeve is made of three parts: a copper sleeve which transfers heat very efficiently to heatsink, a thin narrow stainless steel neck in the middle which has less surface area, conducts very little heat, and a copper end that when tightened against the harder brass nozzle creates a strong seal. The titanium alloy conducts heat poorly and is much harder than the brass nozzle so tightening the two surfaces together will create another strong seal. Your thinking is on point but other factors are at play.
Best of luck with your mods!
You probably already know by now but that PTFE tube is to long. It will mushroom when you heat the hotend and tighten down the nozzle. Over time it will get worse and worse and bind the filament and eventually leak between the nozzle and heatbreak again. Ask me how I know.
There is only one solution to fix a PTFE lined hotend and that is to get rid of it completely. There are few options for all metal heatbreaks that fit the stock ender hotend these days.
Another thing to do is replace the aluminium heater block and brass nozzle with plated copper versions. Better thermal transfer means better extrusion and higher vol m/m³.
Life's too short to be stuck in the lined PTFE hotend loop.
Hello Ashley, Thank you for commenting and sharing your experiences. I agree with you that an all metal hotend would solve the hotend problems. The one all metal hotend that has been trouble free for me over the last 5 months is the E3D V6 on one of my Ender 3 V2s. Unfortunately, I've had many problems with the Micro Swiss all metal hotend's heat block coming loose and leaking. I keep trying different tightening methods with them but all have the same issues eventually. In my experience this PTFE fix along with thermal paste applied to the cold side heat break shaft are the keys to making the stock hotend more reliable than the Micro Swiss by a wide margin. What messes up the Capricorn PTFE is too little compression and heat creep. Compression issues are resolved with this fix and heat creep by adding thermal paste to the cold side of the heat break before sliding it into the heatsink. I recently had to replace the PTFE section of one of printers not because the fix failed but because the buck board for my Noctua hotend fan did, cooking the PTFE tube inside. The same buck board failure happened on my E3D V6 all metal hotend machine but after replacing the filament and buck board it's back to printing like nothing happened. The .STL files included have different length jigs for cutting the PTFE to the proper length for a given machine. The PTFE shouldn't stick out more than .75mm before tightening. I haven't had any problems compressing it .75mm.
Best of luck with your mods!
Luke has a jig on thingiverse on his page.
Hi Douglas, Thanks for the info. I found a remix that worked better for me than Luke's original version. The hotend bowden spacer had a chamfered bottom with a counter sink that provides a centering bore for the bowden tube to slip into. I needed to change some of the design dimensions to fit my Capricorn tube. It's been working flawlessly going on 6 months now.
It is not his fix it is Luke Hatfields, like a lot of things he makes a totaly unneeded mod to something and then claims it as his own
Hi Andrew, who are talking about Chuck's CHEP channel? If so that's just where I stumbled on this Info. I believe he mentioned where he heard about it on his channel.
Best of luck with your mods!
That’s not Cheps. Luke Hatfeild came up with that.
Hello Douglas, Thank you for commenting. My apologies if I didn't give credit to the right person. I don't know who Luke Hatfield is but came across the info from CHEP's channel. I'm sure Chuck gave him the credit if that's where he found it.
Best of luck with your mods.
@@vbared ty. this didnt quite fit my capricorn but i took into tinkercad and made the hole a little bigger. Luke likes this design,, i showed him. thank you for a good video.
Do you really need 40 minutes for just this???
Hello Sümer, Thank you for commenting and constructive feedback. I'll work on getting to gist sooner.
Best of luck with your RC planes!