Thank you for this. I grew up poor and my mother would always say “ poor people cannot afford cheap clothes”. She took us to the second hand store and understood how to pick quality. Lessons I never forgot.
Your mom was completely correct. My grandmother told me you purchase the best shoes and accessories you can afford. She also said " if they wear cheap shoes or their mother has silver plate flatware, they will cheat you in the divorce settlement". I digress.
Hey Ty, nah no bitterness, just her wit... lol. However her wisdom was spot on I literally have shoes I purchased 30 years ago that look and wear wonderfully.
Smart mom. My regards to the lady. No, I didn't grow up poor. In fact, we are comfortably off. But we didn't get to be where we are by stuffing our closets with cheap junk either. Your mom gave you the most valuable gift of all; common sense.
Lol So any dress shoe from macys/Dillard's. They are pretty much claiming that you should only buy top handmade high quality leather as the base standard haha. Cole Haan are well over 100 dollars and is very expensive for the average folk. You are insisting to not buy that shoe as it's a waste of money. Instead buy a 300-400 dollar dress shoe?
That top ten in short: 10. Cole Haan 9. Bostonian 8. Aldo 7. Florsheim 6. Steve Madden 5. Kenneth Cole 4. Calvin Klein 3. Johnston & Murphy 2. Joseph Abboud 1. Stacy Adams
Peter O'Sullivan sadly, I've owned 6 of these 10. Most aren't in my closet now. But, for some reason I still have a pair of Cole Haan whole cuts. I wear them rarely, and honestly now that I think of it, they should be donated this week.
@@johnw9177 Hold on, Trenton and Heath did mention the brands are bad now but it doesn't mean their old goods were. Check your stuff, it's the quality that counts. Oh, on a side note if they're Cole Haan....
Sam Le 😂. In not saying that because of this video. I noted how the shoes wear over the past 2-3 years, and they just don't stand up to my others. I like the color, and the style. But, for the price no way I'd buy them again. If the leather was holding up, I'd keep wearing them. I take excellent care of my shoes, and rotate about 15. I probably wear them once every other month now, if not less.
The list is spot on... I used to buy 1-2 pairs a year from these brands (Cole Haan, Bostonian, Aldo, Florsheim, etc), and they look fine for the average Joe, though a bit plastic looking, and they are comfortable with all of those foam insoles, but they fail within months or a year at most, not to mention the leather loses shape, gets scuffed etc... then I bought my first pair of Allen Edmonds... and only then I realized the huge difference...and its not just the look... the leather feels hefty, solid, stiff in a good way that it holds its shape, even how it creases is different from those shoes... it shines much better when polished, and I have had the pair for over a year now and it looks and feels like the day I bought it, robust well built and holding itself together firmly... so yeah if you can afford the upfront investment...get few pairs of AE and they will last you for years... not to mention they can be resoled... in fact they come out cheaper on the long term because you don't have to buy a new pair every 6 months or one year... also you can get great deals during sales or some gently used pairs on ebay or elsewhere...
My first pair of real dress shoes were black, cap-toe Johnston & Murphy ones I got at the fine menswear store in my town. Very attractive, comfortable, and well built, they have stood up to a lot of wear for years without any issues and are still great shoes. I saw their logo in the Macy's shoe section one day some time later, and wandered over to see if there was a pair I liked in brown to add to my wardrobe. I pick them up and was surprised to find that they were direct-molded, plastic-soled crap. I hadn't realized when I bought my first pair that the brand only offered a tiny selection of decent Goodyear-welted shoes, and everything else they made was overpriced throwaways. Made me sad.
As a woman, we've had to deal with the concept of "disposable" shoes for a long time. It is often easy to justify buying a nice looking pair of shoes by trying to correlating price with quality - especially with names that we grew up associating with quality. Keep up the great work, gentlemen!
I was a fan of Calvin underwear for years because they lasted so long..now I'm getting into softer fabric for tender tissue...I feel alive after trying satin and silk mens sexy underwear'.
One of the reasons that your channel is exploding is because you share your honest viewpoints based on great expertise. That’s a huge value to all of us. Another great video - thanks! Hope you had a nice holiday season!
We’ve touched a nerve with many of the J&M owners, so let us reiterate. This video focuses primarily on the shoe brands that are no longer turning out higher quality shoes (material quality, craftsmanship quality & the ability to be refurbished). Those were the judging factors we looked at. In regards to J&M, we think the higher priced Goodyear welted ones are still pretty good shoes. In summary, today’s shoe market has NEVER before had so many other options outside of these mall/DSW brands. Newer and smaller online brands are producing outstanding quality shoes at very competitive pricing. Instead of sticking with these traditional brands, you may be better served in the long run with many of these newer brands. 👍🏻
Agreed, however, an old pair of JM Crown Arisocrafts or evening better, JM 100s, (*From back in the day*) are pretty good shoes, especially the 100s but those are impossible to find!
Christopher Anton Very true! The Aristocrafts and their custom shoe lines were great shoes! We still see some of those come into our shop, and you can definitely see a difference between those and the newer stuff they’re putting out.
Bostonian went south in quality years ago. I had a pair of Bostonian wingtips that I wore for thirty years. Today I don't think I'd get two years out of a pair of Bostonian's. As far as Johnson and Murphy they sell some comfortable casual shoes, but they're the "once and done" type that get tossed out because they aren't worth repairing, if they even can be repaired.
No need for apologies. People who know their shoes know JM is now trash. People get too nostalgic and want fo defend companies that actively cut corners. I shopped religiously at Jcrew about 15 years back. Won’t touch their stuff now because of poor quality.
Out of college in the mid 90s I sold Florsheim when they were still made in the USA. They were beautifully made. Still have a pair of Cordovan Lexingtons I bought way back in 1996 which sat in stock for two years. I couldn’t believe they were shutting down their production here and laying off hundreds of skilled professionals. Same goes with Johnson and Murphy, Cole Hahn, and Bostonian. Even todays Timberlands I regard as junk. In 1990 I bought a pair of their classic Chukka boots with Gortex. Still have them today, resoled three times. They were made in New England. Today I buy Allen Edmonds and Red Wing.
When my father was growing up, he was very interested in fashion and loved the little things about brands such as how they were stitched together, and the quality of materials used. My mom was a very fashionable person growing up. I learned from both of them how to identiy quality clothes that looked good, and I spend way more time shopping through thrift stores or buying things online second hand based on their quality. The clothes I learned how to buy will last generations.
This video just came up on my feed at the perfect time! I have a pair of Aldo that I bought 10+ years ago and have worn just about every work day in the last 10 years. They are the most comfortable dress shoe I've ever owned and they are still in great shape. Stopped the other day to pick up a black pair, brought them home and compared the quality and it's like night and day. I put them right back in the box to return them.
aldo 10 years ago was probably still bought from quality italian suppliers, like some of the other brands mentioned. Today, it's all cheap cheap, cheap cheap.
I used to polish my "Sunday shoes" i.e. dress shoes, with my Dad when I was a kid, but as I grew up and started wearing nothing but sneakers, Dr. Martens, and mostly casual one-time wear boots and shoes, I haven't polished a shoe in... 30+ years. Well, I recently became addicted to this TH-cam channel, (Ha ha!!!) so, I ordered some stuff from Potter and Sons: Saphir Renovateur, Creme 1925, Medaie, D'or 1925, Avel leather soap, a horse hair brush, some shoe trees, and a small soap brush. I still do not own any nice shoes, but last night, I sat down with my old trust pair of pretty busted up brown Dr. Marten's, and I followed a Trenton & Heath shoe shine video, and guys... even though my crappy Made in Vietnam Dr. Marten's were not exactly world class leather to begin with... these damn thing look amazing!!! It was a lot of fun. It was very satisfying to watch them come back to life, and even look much better than when I first bought them 20 years ago. My only regret is that I don't have another pair of dilapidated shoes that I can polish up and restore. Great products, great videos, and great help! Thanks guys!
I actually enjoy cleaning and polishing shoes. Why not? You get something that looks much nicer than before you began :) But, becoming a lost art, I'm afraid.
If you've got the time and a foot that fits into an off the rack pair of shoes - scour the thrift stores, you can often find shoes for as little as $5. Have them refurbished by your local shoe repairer. Easy way to save $150 or more off new. Yet still have totally new soles plus all of the vintage charm.
Michael Perkins I have always enjoyed the process of shoe care...I just find it hard to find the time sometimes. I still use Kiwi for the most part for my black and brown shoes. There is nothing quite like having an Oxford that looks sad and half an hour later it looks new.
I was sad to hear about Florsheims reduced quality. My dad worked for Brown Shoe Company in the St. Louis in the QC department. At the time BSC and Florscheims were part of the same company. My dad spoke highly of their brand.
I have a Clark’sXBostonian olive suede Chelsea boot that is absolutely fantastic. I work at Nordstrom in mens shoes and unfortunately they don’t make them anymore. I can’t speak on Bostonian other than the ones I have though.
DJWerkz Definitely check out some of the brands we put in the video drop down. A lot of small, online brands are popping up. Most of these offer great quality at great prices.
@@TrentonHeath thanks, I actually subscribed to all the brands you listed so will receive email offers from now on. I will also be sending you a pair of my Loake boots for a re-sole in the near future
@@dannysunay8099 There is a trend of outsourcing manufacture. For instance Loakes have cheaper ranges made in India, but also more expensive ones made in England.
Man, some of these do hurt a bit... so many classic American brands seem to have fallen by the wayside. I still remember growing up in Arkansas in the 70’s and 80’s when I got my first pair of Florsheim penny loafers. Talk about saving up! Was quite the style at the time. In adulthood I’d say that 75% of my shoes are now Allen Edmonds. Once you learn their last system, it’s incredibly easy to find a solid fit. Even got married in a pair. Being a professional brewer I rarely get to wear them, but they are like collectible works of art.
My dad really never taught me fashion / dress to impress. But when he got older I realized he knew quality as he had old Florsheim or Johnston and Murphy shoes and shoe trees. Plus little things like YSL ties or London fog overcoat. I would have kept his shoes when he passed but they were too small for me.
Bostonians were great when I was a kid. It was a long time ago, back when Brooks and Joe Bank's were good men's stores. Bostonian became a shell of its former self, so I just stopped buying them. Strictly A&E and Alden now.
AS A KID I SHINED SHOES FOR A REALLY GOOD COBBLER PLUS HE WAS A GOOD MAN( BILL WILSON) NOT ONLY DID I LEARN ABOUT WELL MADE SHOES I LEARNED HOW TO TREAT PEOPLE WHO DIDNT ALWAYS HAVE ALOT OF MONEY..MY DAD ONE DAY SAID U CANT HANGOUT ON STREET CORNERS U WORK FOR BILL NOW..WHEN I CAME HOME FROM M.C.R.D SAN DIEGO1971..I WALKED INTO THE SHOP BILL HANDED ME A PAIR(SHOES)AND SAID KNOCK THOSE SHOES OUT 4 ME,I SAID OK..BILL.CHICAGO!
@@davidbrewster1994 How to use the Shift key: To use the Shift key to capitalize letters, press and hold the Shift key, and push the letter you want to capitalize.
@@MrKillerpics some people have only one hand that works. on a typewriter you could lock the shift key but on a computer unless you want to use your chin no caps. Or if it does lock you just get caps. how someone spells or types should not make it too hard for you to understand what they are saying. TROLL
@@suesmith5746 No problem to understand what he said but it matters how it is said :* Maybe my comment was a little bit cheeky but I am no troll at all
When I was first starting out, I made the mistake of buying some of the brands mentioned in this video. I remember being a kid and just assuming all dress shoes had rubber soles, since cemented rubber-soled dress shoes were the only kind sold at department stores and the mainstream shoe stores in my area. I bought my first pair of dress shoes when I was 17, and they were a pair of Clarks with cemented rubber soles, which I still have ironically. Not made to last, but extremely comfortable, with a cushioned insole and an outsole designed for comfort. Don't wear them anymore, but can't bring myself to give them away due to sentimental value. I recall being told to buy some of the brands you mentioned by older people as a teenager because they were "good quality." They still remembered what the quality was like back in the day. You hit the nail on the head with Florsheim. I found a goodyear welted vintage pair that felt really well made. Compare that to their modern stuff where they use imitation stitches and fake welts to trick you into thinking it's still what it once was. Even some of the Imperials are becoming worse, as they apply a weird high-gloss finish to decent quality leather uppers. While most of my shoes now are vintage, or high-end, I do own a pair of vintage Florsheim loafers from around the late 90s-early 00s. They still had leather soles, but you can tell their quality was on the decline even then. Still way better than what they put out now. I still like them though, and they're "reasonably acceptable" all things considered. They're a nice casual everyday shoe I don't mind putting through their paces. I still look after them really well, and I've even had them reheeled once already. I expect to get many more years out of them. As for J&M, their goodyear welted captoe oxfords are made in India. Apparently the leather has somewhat of a tendency to "flake" after awhile due to them cutting corners on leather quality and finishing (flaking is somewhat common on leather with a painted or inferior finish). The only J&M shoes I'd maybe consider would be their "Made in Italy" lineup which go for around $400, but not sure if I could trust them given how they've cut enough corners as is on their main lineup of shoes. I've heard good things about the Myrqvist brand out of Sweden, but haven't tried them myself. A local cobbler told me he's noticed AE aren't as good as they used to be, especially in the quality of the stitching. Vintage is probably the best option to keep cost low and quality high, which is how I've scored some really nice shoes. I think once you try vintage handmade English shoes, there's really no going back. Guess I've come a long way since those Clarks lol
I love your list of shoes that are made well, but most only go up to size 14! I was a 14 for years and due to orthodics or age or both, 14s grind against my toes and are small. It could be that I buy cheap as my foot masures 13". What are your recommended size 15 shoes or 14s that might really fit? Even Allan Edmonds had mostlyy 14 as did Becket Simonon. I am in Los Angleles, so I would hope it would be easier to find those locally vs shipping back and forth.
As a former shoe salesman(at a independent, family owned men's wear store that's been in business for 95 years)...it was shocking to see how many of the brands on the list I used to sell. I always knew Aldo was crap, but not some of the other brands. Thank you for an informative video, gentlemen.
It depends, because designers often have tiers of quality. Ralph Lauren for example, you don't want to mess with their Lauren or Polo lines for shoes but their Purple Label and RRL lines are of good quality.
@@amanasd26 agreed, some are made by edward green.With Brooks Brothers the higher end ones are made by alfred Sargent, Crockett and Jones and Allen edmonds
I obviously don't wear men's shoes but I still love your videos. It is so rare to see craftsmen at the top of their game who enjoy what they do. I also appreciate your honesty. Keep up the good work!
I bought a pair of Florsheims for the first time in the late nineties - because I was convinced that despite the high prices, the quality of manufacture was flawless. I tossed them into the trash a couple of months later and I've never bought another Florsheim since.
I had bought a Kenneth Cole watch for $250 on sale from the mall back in 2008 and whatever material they used for the band deteriorated within a year and I never had the bands fixed. They are selling there name more than a quality product. That's bad for business
I agree with all of these except Johnston & Murphy. I bought a pair of Johnston & Murphys recently and they have become one if my favorite pairs of shoes. They are Goodyear welted, the leather looks fantastic, and they fit like slippers.
Buy American or UK as that is where the best shoes are made. I am not impressed one iota with Italian shoes. Alden, Allen-Edmond, Edward Green, Crockett & Jones, John Lobb, et al are great shoes with the UK ones being far superior to U.S. brands. Carmina is a good Spanish shoe which I am thinking of buying. Having sold shoes for years, I have to disagree with you on J & M. When they were made here they were great shoes but now that they are off-shore that simply isn't the case! Sorry if reality bites but that's the truth. We had several J & M's come back during my days at Nordstrom but never an Allen-Edmond or a "Too Boot" for that matter. Got to get your game up man! GET YOUR GAME UP!!
Charles Moorman Definitely much of the Johnston & Murphy line is not great quality. Many of the shoes have glued soles and less than good leather. A few models are decent, though. Not AE or Lobb quality, obviously, but decent value for money. My J&M Conards are Italian leather, Goodyear welted, and as comfortable as a pair of sneakers. I’ll take that all day for $180. Get your game up? What game are you referring to? You sound like one of these online startup show company guys hawking off brand shoes to unwary viewers who want to try to pretend they’re rich!
No, I am not trying to sell some shoes on-line. I am not rich but I am willing to spend $800 plus to buy a nice pair of Crockett & Jones shoes as that is where I prefer to spend my money. Total amount of money spent on worthless consumer electronics for the past 10 years--0. Total smart phone monthly bill--$60. Total Utility bills for the month $20. Total money spent at Starbucks (now there's a total waste of money) the past year--0, nada, zilch. As I have aptly pointed out before, if you take the your $5 your spend for the privilege of looking cool and buying a .50 cup of coffee in all reality and times it by say 300 visits you have spent $1500 and all you have to show for it is a urine stream. Hmm, $1500 can buy some very nice shoes so quit crying the blues about how expensive high-end shoes are and implying I am an elitist. No, I spend my money on beautiful objects that last a lifetime unlike some cheap piece of crap like a Johnson and Murphy shoe!
@@chuckbuckbobuck Woah, easy there. It sounds like a touched a nerve here. I wasn't making any judgement about your shoe buying decisions nor did I request your personal budget. If buying an $800 pair of shoes makes you happy and furthers you toward your goals, go for it. I was just commenting on your use of the phrase "GET YOUR GAME UP", as if implying that somebody that doesn't choose to spend that much on shoes is losing some kind of game. I just don't know what game that is. Nobody really cares what shoes you wear, except maybe a shoe salesman. However, now that you've opened the can, I can say that, as someone who can afford to buy nice shoes and drink coffee, I feel that spending $800 on one pair of shoes is a sure way to guarantee that you will never be rich. That money could most certainly be put to more productive use to improve your financial situation so that you can buy as many nice pairs of shoes as you want without so much apparent guilt or sacrifice. But like I said, everyone should do whatever makes them happy and feel fulfilled.
I won’t wear Allen Edmonds anymore. I bought a brand new pair in Sept 2019. Later that month I was polishing them with Saphir Medalle D’or. A “dead spot” emerged on one toe. It got dark and wouldn’t accept any polish or take on any shine. After calling AE head quarters I was told that because I didn’t use their polish, it was my fault. They refused to do anything about it.
@@anthonybarrett2342 Depending on the repair, a shoe like the AE or others end up being great value. I don't know if my issue can be fixed. Right now the shoes are sitting in my closet in the box I bought them with. I was so disappointing in how the customer service team treated the issue I just won't go back even if I can get my shoes repaired. It's a lousy way to run a business and I hope more folks know about it.
After watching these videos for the past few weeks I’ve realized what crap I’ve been buying for a 30+ year career. I honestly never paid attention other than shine and comfort. I just threw them away after a year or two. A convert now. Thanks for the education guys.
Are Christian Louboutin shoes any good? I know they're pricey, but how about quality, and that question goes for other high priced designer shoes as well.
Absolutely. I love these videos and wonder if they follow the same quality for women. If I can ever invest in a shoe, I would love to know. I have an issue with hyperhidrosis and maybe I shouldn't invest. A normal person might be interested. Not all women like to wear heels.
You know, when I worked in shoe repair, it was always such a relief to have a woman customer who could tell the difference between junk that looks pretty, and built to last shoes. I found that I had to break bad news to far fewer women when they could tell the difference. :)
This is so me. When 1st entering the professional world, J&M. Now I've moved on to Beckett Simonon. When you know better, you do better. I just hate the wait time for Beckett.
I have to agree about Stacy Adams. Bought a pair off of Amazon for $75. The return window closed after 30 days. However, after six weeks, the insoles had completely flattened out, and the toe cap started to pop the stitching and the sole was already wearing down on the toe. It was a whole lot of money spent on a pair of shoes for a month and a half wear.
As some one who works for one the companies mentioned, we do have higher end shoes available for order. Most the time, the higher end brand cause a sticker shock. The customer wants something cheap. Or we don’t have it to try on and they don’t want to or have the time to go through the whole reorder process. A video on why buying quality over quantity
I have Allen Edmonds at 14EEE. They were my first good pair, and I bought them online. They're actually too big. I had always worn 13eee, and found out I'm 14, but I guess not 14e.
Sad sure, but only if you’re willing do something to prevent this trend from happening in the future. Wonder if the jobs would be off-shored and employees laid off if every employee had a stake in the business?
Kenny Ingram Many Times, the American consumer is held hostage by the CEO’s who, wanting to attain a larger profit margin either for themselves or their stockholders(as in NIKE), send their products to be made in Asia. I purposely search for hours for products not MADE in CHINA and sometimes it’s very difficult. The crap they produce boggles the mind.
There are still many good Made in USA brands out there. They typically are a little pricey but the durability and craftsmanship are worth the investment in the long run.
Watching you guys has made me realize that investing in high quality over brand is more important for the well being of my feet and pockets. Time for me to save money for a nice pair of sneakers, "dress shoes", and boots!
Totally agree with you. Johnston & Murphy was my only dress shoe for over 25 years. I’ve moved my loyalty to Allen Edmunds due to JMs changes and value for the dollar. They make awesome shoes here in the states which for the most part are recraftable. Don’t forget to use your shoe trees and rotate what you wear! I have a pair of Johnson Murphy Aristocrats that I bought in ‘97 and had them redrafted by JM and they still look good.
Thanks for the words of wisdom about the names of shoes to avoid. You about killed me when you mentioned on the front end about Cole Haan. I have 4 pairs of Cole Haan loafers that are all about 15 + years old and 3 pairs ( brown, burgundy and black) have been reworked locally. I think that I got these at Dillards. But, the last time I looked I began to notice that these same loafers had changed in terms of their construction. The newer shoes do not seem to be able to be resoled, or at least without destroying the shoe. On the good side, I have a pair of Alan Edmonds wing tips that my mother bought for me for $ 175.00 when I was 40 yrs old. I still have them in the closet in shoe trees and they still look great. I am now 69 yrs old and although I do not wear them regularly any more, it would be close to $400.00 + to replace them.
I worked my way through school working at a Florsheim store (1962-1966). Great quality at one time. Now, they are made in India and I think even the untouchales turn away from them.
I'm young, working on my Master's degree, still trying to work my way up in the economy, and own some cheaper Florsheims and a pair of Moc-toe Abbouds. At first, I was kinda curious because I thought there's no way that those shoes are cheap; granted, I barely wear these shoes except on special occasions. After watching your guys' videos, as well as Kirby Allison's and Elegant Oxford's, I've gotten into shoe care and am now starting to understand more about quality shoes. I started using Saphir Renovateur and will soon invest in their other MDO products, especially their creme polishes, in order to protect my current "investments" and make them last even longer; not only that, I plan on investing in a good pair of shoes in the future. Thank you guys for what you're doing. I love learning new things whenever possible. Cheers from California!
Wow! Every single selection is on my list already. No surprises here and in my shoe journey all these shoes are on my list. Again you all have verified what I already knew. Outstanding video!
@@gabyottich7020 I could only find this one by searching his channel for Cole-Haan. No newspaper but still pretty bad. th-cam.com/video/-gxiY879tl4/w-d-xo.html
Florsheim is a brand I haven't thought of in years. When our last locally-owned department store went out of business back in '97 or '98, they still had their Florsheim sign up, and that was simply what you bought if you wanted quality. The two guys who ran the shoe department went on to start their own standalone shoe shop, which lasted until 3-4 years ago. Disappointed to hear that Florsheim has gone down the tubes a bit. So many of the once-great names have done the same.
Jus gotta keep an eye out on the second hand market, I managed to snag some pairs of Goodyear welted double leather sole Florsheim's and they're still fantastic. You wouldn't think they're well over 30 years old.
Like many old brands, they USED to be fantastic. The 90s saw many luxury makers create low market products (for the poors) so someome in the suburbs can say they're wearing Armani...Exchange. I still have Brooks Brothers suit jackets that my grandfather wore in the 60s that are still in impeccable shape. If you find a good tailor and dry cleaner, your well-made clothes can be handed *down* to your Grandkids instead of being thrown *out* at Goodwill.
Long T. Tang , I gave them a list of shoes that I currently wear to review ... this was a really great video, I had to pass it onto some of my buddies so they know, it’s time to upgrade their shoe game...
Thanks, I wasn’t aware! We’ll have to look into those. In this case, we were primarily referring to the Joseph Abboud brand found in most department stores.
I bought Church's years ago and they have lasted me. I would prefer a rubber heel, however. Since the original owners have sold the brand, I have not needed any more so I have no experience with them. Very nice video. Boots to avoid might be a great topic considering that we need something in the Midwest to keep us dry and stylish during the winter.
@@TrentonHeath I'm not sure if you have covered this in the past, but would Carminas potentially be on this list you are compiling? I am considering a pair currently.
So true. I have a couple pairs of Johnston & Murphy’s I bought about a decade ago. Really love them and I developed a brand loyalty. Over the past decade And paying attention to the brand you can literally see the quality decline year over year.
Marcus Durante Yep...very true! I hate to knock J&M, as they were based here in Nashville, but I’ve witnessed their decline in quality day after day from the shoes we’ve worked on.
Marcus, you are spot on. The decline has happened so fast. I’ve got two pair from the early 1980’s that are still incredible - they don’t even seem to be made by the same company that bears the J&M today.
Marcus Durante Absolutely true. I’ve worn them for over twenty years but the quality has plummeted recently. Also, if you check out their new styles you’ll notice they’ve ditched many of their classic conservative shoes for trendy sportier ones with many more rubber sole (one and done) options than leather ones. It seems they are trying to appeal to a different customer and have lost their uniqueness in the process. And their quality has suffered because they are trying to compete in a saturated and low price point market for men’s dress shoes. I’ve switched to Cobbler Union. And I’m thinking of getting a pair of Loake boots.
I still own a few pairs of Cole Hann and donated several pairs that I have not worn to a clothing place which helps men dress for a job and interviews. However, I stepped up my shoe game by ordering two pairs of shoes from Beckett Simonon and currently own three pairs from Thursday Boot Company.
Apparently you were so absorbed in your condescension that you didn’t notice that Thursday Boots were one of the recommended brands in the links below the video. Ooops.
For twenty years I bought virtually nothing else but ECCO. Unfortunately after the fifth pair the sole disintegrated and ECCO told me they would not stand behind their product I told them where to stick it.
I still have a pair of Cole Haan that I bought back in 97 when I worked for them and I must say the quality of their show is in the toilet compared to the quality of their shoe 23 yrs ago. Great video and new subscriber here.
Cole haan still makes stylish shoe. Key is to buy them at 70 percent off and then throw them in a couple of years. Why would you resole such cheap shoes
Agree completely with this. I love the "dress sneakers" style, and nobody does them like Cole Haan. I got 3 pairs last black friday for $200 and I'll take that all day.
@@jimpalmer2981 the thing about Cole haan, at least for me, is the dress sneaker style is more of one that gets updated and changes over the years. I would never buy Cole haan straight dress shoes, but the sneakers I probably won't want to wear after a few years anymore anyway.
I agree with Joseph Abboud. I have a pair of black leather oxfords and after a couple years of use the outsole started peeling off. I had to use crazy glue to fix it lol
I don't dress up often at all, so haven't had much call for nicer shoes. Bought a pair of Floreshiem 20 years ago, but they'd only come out for weddings over the last 15 years. Didn't take care of the uppers, and the black had cracked and started to flake off, revealing the leather underneath. Had to get some newer dresswear for a wedding this fall, and after looking into things for a while, picked up a pair of Thursday wingtips and have since gone down the youtube deep dive that has led me to you guys.
@@TrentonHeath I was thinking the same thing as ROTTEN. I've only started really dressing up for work in the last two years, so I'm still building my wardrobe. I'll admit, I have some sub-$200 dress shoes (yes, J&M) which I purchased just to get started and to find my style. I'm starting to recognize some of the nuances of quality and would like to invest in some products that will last a long time. Am I ready to drop $500+ on a pair of shoes? Not yet. I'd like to hear your take on some better quality shoe in the 2-400 dollar range. Yes, I know about Allen Edmonds, but I'd like to know what else is out there at that price point or even about others that may cost more, but are worth it. Keep up the great work. Love seeing your subscriber count going up!
@@scottv781 Carmina is pretty much the best you can get in the 400-600 dollar range. Skip over the allen edmonds and go straight to Carmina if you want a massive quality jump. I'd recommend watching some of Kirby Allison's videos on the subject as well as his review of carmina and he even has a factory tour where he goes through everything.
I have two pairs of Cole Hans: one from 10 years ago and one from 5 years. The older one I bought because they were blue and wanted a pair. The later I bought as I needed a pair of shoe for interviews and hit a rough spot economically. I knew both are onetime wears and will not be re-soled. I have to say the Nike construction on the one is really comfortable. Many years ago in the 1980s I bought a pair of J&Ms and was happy with them until I sent them back to the company to be re-soled and they somehow messed it up. Then in the late 1990s I bought another pair and they were just not the same kind of shoe.
jlastre Yeah, we’ve owned both brands too. Cole Haan’s are comfortable...just an absolute beast to try to resole. J&M’s are hit or miss. Most of the shoes they’re turning out now are just not great quality. We still get some of the higher-end Aristocrafts in here, and they were made well. Unfortunately, a couple of years ago, J&M closed down everything here in Nashville and took all of it overseas to China, etc. Now they don’t even offer their recrafting on their higher-end products.
They went to Mexico in the late 90's . Funny there used to be lots of J&M stores in the 80's & 90's at high-end malls. Every stinking one of them are gone--that should tell you something!
As a Brit' it's good to see Loake mentioned in the worth buying list. Indeed, the pair of Loake grained brogues I was wearing today are English made and around 25-30 years old and still look great. But I also have more recent Loakes which were made in India and they are not to be recommended for the same reason you have guided your countrymen away from some long standing American brands. So it's caveat time: Loake shoes that are goodyear welted and made in England are excellent. They come in ranges including "1880". But Loake Design range is another thing entirely. I've actually had shoes from this range delaminate. I just hope they don't devalue the brand further by taking all production offshore.
Great video guys. The last pair of dress shoes I bought were Johnson and Murphy, the year I retired, 2004. I actually got them at a J&M store. However, since I retired I have not worn dress shoes but twice. I am now a New Balance guy.
Do you have any experience with Thomas Bird? I just bought a pair double monkstrap from them. This is my first ever higher quality shoe. I love it it feels and looks nice. As I said this is my first ever higher quality shoe so I can't compare the quality to any other brand, so I would like to know your opinion. I hope I did a good investment and will last for years and years.
dávid Farkas I’ve checked them out on their website before, they look like they hit a lot of the basic hallmarks not quality (full grain calf upper, stitched sole, made in Italy, good price point)- and they look absolutely gorgeous!! Enjoy!
Just be aware that a Blake stitched shoe won't last or be as durable as a GYW shoe. Generally they are more flexible and light weight and comfortable out of the box comparatively. Gyw rule for durability, ease of recraft (Blake stitched needs a special machine or can be converted to Blake rapid) and water resistance. With that said, they both are much better than cemented garbage and you just need to pamper Blake stitched a bit more.
Their assessment is pretty spot-on, the problem is that if your budget doesn't allow for a minimum of $250 for a single pair, these brands are about your only option. Still to your point, every guy driving a Mustang or Camero believes that his car is as good if not better than a Porsche until they own a Porsche. Once you graduate to better brands like Magnanni, which is a brand that I love and own many pairs. You won't actually know why this review is excellent.
I own a pair of Florsheim’s from around 2008 - 2009. I noticed you said at one point they were a quality shoe. When did they start to slack off? Mine are still in good condition.
I have taken dress shoes (with leather uppers which are glued on) to an old school cobbler. He stitches the sole of the shoe on to the upper by machine i believe. You cant see the stitching because it is underneath the sole. He stitches the heal on to the upper with a neat stitch by hand (I believe) through the side of the heal. It is not very noticeable at all unless you look closely. They seem to hold up well. I dont know much about how shoes are made so does this make sence?
Would love to see a review for Crockett & Jones or Edward Green and see if my shoes stack up and if they were worth the investment. Thanks for the video!
YOu own C & J's. You are one lucky guy with great taste. I take the plunge next month. Going to New York to buy two pair. Wish they had a store on the West Coast. Don't want to order by internet--want to make they fit as $880 is a lot of money to find out they don't fit and have send back!
Charles Moorman haha that’s the product of another TH-cam channel I watch. I wish they had a store on the west coast as well... I got lucky with the sizing of my internet purchase and then I was in London to buy my other pairs so I can get my VAT refund. The refund pays for the flight to be honest. Which pairs are you looking at?
Love your recommendation of Meermin! Was surprised to see they offer classic styles for women too and I got a pair of loafers. Been looking for quality ladies loafers for ages that don't break the bank and I always found myself scouting brands making men's shoes and taking the smaller sizes. Please do a video on quality women's shoes.
I bought a pair of Steve Madden shoe boots in Oct of 2018 by March they literally exploded! I used the shoes for light duty casual use. No hard hikes or rough & tumble yard work and still they exploded within two days of each other(Left foot then right). The sole detached heel without warning. I was walking in a grocery store and suddenly had this weird sensation. I had to walk by dragging the foot Quasimodo style to keep the shoe on my foot. I had the receipt and the shoes were still under Store Warranty...I took it in and they initially wanted to hassle but ultimately issued a full refund. I decided to experiment with the pair(the store said keep them)and see if I could glue the sole back on. It was testing this out that the other shoe malfunctioned in the same manner.
I see you recommend Loake. Not sure about the US, but here in the U.K. there are two distinct lines. The English made Loake are simply branded “Loake”, but there is also a lower cost line called “Design Loake”. These are made in India but so far as I am aware are still made by Loake just with cheaper labour. Seems other English brands are having parts of the shoes made and India and shipped to England for completion (Barker perhaps is one of them? 🤔). I have a pair of Design Loake and don’t see anything wrong with them (but I’m not a cobbler, nor have I needed them re-soled - they have Goodyear welted leather soles though), but thought people should know in case they think they are buying something they aren’t! Personally I don’t care where the shoes are made so long as the quality is there. As this video shows, low cost imports have meant many former quality shoe brands are not much better than the shop own brands!
What a shame that Florsheim has gone so downhill. I used to sell for them in the '80's. The Royal Imperial line was beautiful. Other great brands that are now bad are Bostonian & J&M.
Those were all my go to shoes in the 80s and 90s. There was a Bostonian outlet not far from my house back then, and I bought 1 to 2 pair of Bostonians. Not anymore, though.
Thanks for this list! Agreed with all, but I admit that I have never bought Stacy Adams (not actually classic styling). Cannot go wrong with Allen Edmonds and Cobbler-Union. It is good that you are pointing at the elephant in the room and calling these brands what they, unfortunately, are/have become--makers of throw-away shoes. A man will save money by buying a few good AE shoes instead of buying 10 from a cheap brand that will not last.
I own a pair of Florsheim that I bought three months ago brand new for $150 and wear everyday. I’ve already had to replace the laces because they broke after a month and they are already starting to crack
I have a pair of Florsheim blue suede Oxfords and chalet cap to leather boots. Both beautiful shoes and very comfy for the price. I was blown away with the comfort on the chalet cap toe boot and stunning appearance. Not sure about the long term quality but they are more comfortable and better looking than some of the Thursday boots.
Thank you for this.
I grew up poor and my mother would always say “ poor people cannot afford cheap clothes”.
She took us to the second hand store and understood how to pick quality.
Lessons I never forgot.
Your mom was completely correct. My grandmother told me you purchase the best shoes and accessories you can afford. She also said " if they wear cheap shoes or their mother has silver plate flatware, they will cheat you in the divorce settlement". I digress.
@@DittoMike1 Sorry for the bitterness left by the cheap flatware dude.
I absolutely agree. When I buy shoes I look at the sole, weight...leather...once bought your investment needs to repay you in time.
Hey Ty, nah no bitterness, just her wit... lol. However her wisdom was spot on I literally have shoes I purchased 30 years ago that look and wear wonderfully.
Smart mom. My regards to the lady. No, I didn't grow up poor. In fact, we are comfortably off. But we didn't get to be where we are by stuffing our closets with cheap junk either. Your mom gave you the most valuable gift of all; common sense.
10. Cole Haan 1:00
9. Bostonian 2:04
8. Aldo 2:30
7: Florsheim 3:20
6. Steve Madden 4:38
5. Kenneth Cole 5:18
4. Calvin Klein 5:47
3. Johnston & Murphy 6:52
2. Joseph Abboud 8:00
1. Stacy Adams 9:11
I'm going proper shoe shopping now that I'm 30; I realized I need proper shoe education now that I'm invest a bunch : )
thanks dude
I had a pair of womens madden shoes for 5 years. I wore them often for church and nice events. However they did fall apart.
Thanks..!!
No not Stacy Adam
Lol So any dress shoe from macys/Dillard's. They are pretty much claiming that you should only buy top handmade high quality leather as the base standard haha. Cole Haan are well over 100 dollars and is very expensive for the average folk. You are insisting to not buy that shoe as it's a waste of money. Instead buy a 300-400 dollar dress shoe?
That top ten in short:
10. Cole Haan
9. Bostonian
8. Aldo
7. Florsheim
6. Steve Madden
5. Kenneth Cole
4. Calvin Klein
3. Johnston & Murphy
2. Joseph Abboud
1. Stacy Adams
Peter O'Sullivan thank you for saving me time. Happy new year!
Peter O'Sullivan sadly, I've owned 6 of these 10. Most aren't in my closet now. But, for some reason I still have a pair of Cole Haan whole cuts. I wear them rarely, and honestly now that I think of it, they should be donated this week.
@@johnw9177 Hold on, Trenton and Heath did mention the brands are bad now but it doesn't mean their old goods were. Check your stuff, it's the quality that counts.
Oh, on a side note if they're Cole Haan....
Thank you!
Sam Le 😂. In not saying that because of this video. I noted how the shoes wear over the past 2-3 years, and they just don't stand up to my others. I like the color, and the style. But, for the price no way I'd buy them again. If the leather was holding up, I'd keep wearing them. I take excellent care of my shoes, and rotate about 15. I probably wear them once every other month now, if not less.
The list is spot on... I used to buy 1-2 pairs a year from these brands (Cole Haan, Bostonian, Aldo, Florsheim, etc), and they look fine for the average Joe, though a bit plastic looking, and they are comfortable with all of those foam insoles, but they fail within months or a year at most, not to mention the leather loses shape, gets scuffed etc... then I bought my first pair of Allen Edmonds... and only then I realized the huge difference...and its not just the look... the leather feels hefty, solid, stiff in a good way that it holds its shape, even how it creases is different from those shoes... it shines much better when polished, and I have had the pair for over a year now and it looks and feels like the day I bought it, robust well built and holding itself together firmly... so yeah if you can afford the upfront investment...get few pairs of AE and they will last you for years... not to mention they can be resoled... in fact they come out cheaper on the long term because you don't have to buy a new pair every 6 months or one year... also you can get great deals during sales or some gently used pairs on ebay or elsewhere...
My first pair of real dress shoes were black, cap-toe Johnston & Murphy ones I got at the fine menswear store in my town. Very attractive, comfortable, and well built, they have stood up to a lot of wear for years without any issues and are still great shoes. I saw their logo in the Macy's shoe section one day some time later, and wandered over to see if there was a pair I liked in brown to add to my wardrobe. I pick them up and was surprised to find that they were direct-molded, plastic-soled crap. I hadn't realized when I bought my first pair that the brand only offered a tiny selection of decent Goodyear-welted shoes, and everything else they made was overpriced throwaways. Made me sad.
Y'all went out on a limb here. I really appreciate your honesty and taking a chance. It needed to be done. You just elevated yourself a little. Cheers
My dad once said, “greatest comes from those who take chances.” Sure hope he was right. 😀
Elevated a lot in my opinion!
@@TrentonHeath did you mean greatness comes from those who take chances LOL
Joe Sepulveda haha...yep, typo.
Quick list:
10. Cole Haan
9. Bostonian
8. Aldo
7. Florsheim
6. Steve Madden
5. Kenneth Cole
4. Calvin Klein
3. Johnston & Murphy
2. Joseph Abboud
1. Stacy Adams
highoctane2012 many thanks for the list
As a woman, we've had to deal with the concept of "disposable" shoes for a long time. It is often easy to justify buying a nice looking pair of shoes by trying to correlating price with quality - especially with names that we grew up associating with quality. Keep up the great work, gentlemen!
You are spot on, Jennifer! Thank you!
We are not "a woman."
1) Stacy Adams
2) Joseph Abboud
3) Johnston and Murphy
4) Clavin Klein
5) Kenneth Cole
6) Steve Madden
7) Florsheim
8) Aldo
9) Bostonian
10) Cole Haan
"If you want to buy Calvin Klein, buy their underwear - not their shoes "😂
I bought their shoes 2 years ago and the bottom of the heel ripped. Never again!
I was a fan of Calvin underwear for years because they lasted so long..now I'm getting into softer fabric for tender tissue...I feel alive after trying satin and silk mens sexy underwear'.
TBF that and jeans was where they made their name for the mass market public, so yeah.
Their underwear sucks too wedgey central 😂😂
This video shows what the difference is between a company and a brand.
One of the reasons that your channel is exploding is because you share your honest viewpoints based on great expertise. That’s a huge value to all of us. Another great video - thanks! Hope you had a nice holiday season!
We’ve touched a nerve with many of the J&M owners, so let us reiterate. This video focuses primarily on the shoe brands that are no longer turning out higher quality shoes (material quality, craftsmanship quality & the ability to be refurbished). Those were the judging factors we looked at. In regards to J&M, we think the higher priced Goodyear welted ones are still pretty good shoes. In summary, today’s shoe market has NEVER before had so many other options outside of these mall/DSW brands. Newer and smaller online brands are producing outstanding quality shoes at very competitive pricing. Instead of sticking with these traditional brands, you may be better served in the long run with many of these newer brands. 👍🏻
Agreed, however, an old pair of JM Crown Arisocrafts or evening better, JM 100s, (*From back in the day*) are pretty good shoes, especially the 100s but those are impossible to find!
Who is the President who loved J&M deeply of the good old days?
Christopher Anton Very true! The Aristocrafts and their custom shoe lines were great shoes! We still see some of those come into our shop, and you can definitely see a difference between those and the newer stuff they’re putting out.
Bostonian went south in quality years ago. I had a pair of Bostonian wingtips that I wore for thirty years. Today I don't think I'd get two years out of a pair of Bostonian's. As far as Johnson and Murphy they sell some comfortable casual shoes, but they're the "once and done" type that get tossed out because they aren't worth repairing, if they even can be repaired.
No need for apologies. People who know their shoes know JM is now trash. People get too nostalgic and want fo defend companies that actively cut corners. I shopped religiously at Jcrew about 15 years back. Won’t touch their stuff now because of poor quality.
Out of college in the mid 90s I sold Florsheim when they were still made in the USA. They were beautifully made. Still have a pair of Cordovan Lexingtons I bought way back in 1996 which sat in stock for two years. I couldn’t believe they were shutting down their production here and laying off hundreds of skilled professionals. Same goes with Johnson and Murphy, Cole Hahn, and Bostonian. Even todays Timberlands I regard as junk. In 1990 I bought a pair of their classic Chukka boots with Gortex. Still have them today, resoled three times. They were made in New England. Today I buy Allen Edmonds and Red Wing.
I believe we have Clinton and his famous trade deals to thank for that disaster!
When my father was growing up, he was very interested in fashion and loved the little things about brands such as how they were stitched together, and the quality of materials used. My mom was a very fashionable person growing up. I learned from both of them how to identiy quality clothes that looked good, and I spend way more time shopping through thrift stores or buying things online second hand based on their quality. The clothes I learned how to buy will last generations.
This video just came up on my feed at the perfect time! I have a pair of Aldo that I bought 10+ years ago and have worn just about every work day in the last 10 years. They are the most comfortable dress shoe I've ever owned and they are still in great shape. Stopped the other day to pick up a black pair, brought them home and compared the quality and it's like night and day. I put them right back in the box to return them.
aldo 10 years ago was probably still bought from quality italian suppliers, like some of the other brands mentioned. Today, it's all cheap cheap, cheap cheap.
I used to polish my "Sunday shoes" i.e. dress shoes, with my Dad when I was a kid, but as I grew up and started wearing nothing but sneakers, Dr. Martens, and mostly casual one-time wear boots and shoes, I haven't polished a shoe in... 30+ years. Well, I recently became addicted to this TH-cam channel, (Ha ha!!!) so, I ordered some stuff from Potter and Sons: Saphir Renovateur, Creme 1925, Medaie, D'or 1925, Avel leather soap, a horse hair brush, some shoe trees, and a small soap brush. I still do not own any nice shoes, but last night, I sat down with my old trust pair of pretty busted up brown Dr. Marten's, and I followed a Trenton & Heath shoe shine video, and guys... even though my crappy Made in Vietnam Dr. Marten's were not exactly world class leather to begin with... these damn thing look amazing!!! It was a lot of fun. It was very satisfying to watch them come back to life, and even look much better than when I first bought them 20 years ago. My only regret is that I don't have another pair of dilapidated shoes that I can polish up and restore. Great products, great videos, and great help! Thanks guys!
Michael Perkins Thank you so much! We really appreciate that. It can become addictive, so we hope you enjoy your new hobby. 😉
I actually enjoy cleaning and polishing shoes. Why not? You get something that looks much nicer than before you began :) But, becoming a lost art, I'm afraid.
If you've got the time and a foot that fits into an off the rack pair of shoes - scour the thrift stores, you can often find shoes for as little as $5. Have them refurbished by your local shoe repairer. Easy way to save $150 or more off new. Yet still have totally new soles plus all of the vintage charm.
Michael Perkins I have always enjoyed the process of shoe care...I just find it hard to find the time sometimes. I still use Kiwi for the most part for my black and brown shoes. There is nothing quite like having an Oxford that looks sad and half an hour later it looks new.
Michael Perkins welcome back! These can be a fun addition to your wardrobe
I was sad to hear about Florsheims reduced quality. My dad worked for Brown Shoe Company in the St. Louis in the QC department. At the time BSC and Florscheims were part of the same company. My dad spoke highly of their brand.
Bought a pair of Bostonian a month ago, Vibram outsole, and the sole crumbled within two days.
Buy a pair of shoes from Velasca. Try them out. They are quality shoes. On my second pair🔥🔥🔥🔥
I have a Clark’sXBostonian olive suede Chelsea boot that is absolutely fantastic. I work at Nordstrom in mens shoes and unfortunately they don’t make them anymore. I can’t speak on Bostonian other than the ones I have though.
For the first time someone actually got the entire list right. My compliments to you for being a team of professionals.
Thank you, Saul! We appreciate it. Glad you enjoyed.
How about a top 10 of best shoes brands to buy.
Alden is the BEST shoe to buy "EVER" with Allen Edmond's second...Crockett and Jones are good English shoes/Boots....
Crockett & Jones if you have an average size foot if slightly wider than average Trickers is a top brand. Both very old English brands from Jermyn St.
I have a pair of Alden Indy boots and they're my favorites. Most comfortable shoes I own. And the Chromexcel leather is gorgeous.
Berluti
Well, I was about to buy a pair of Johnston and Murphy, but I guess not. My old pair....still good.
As a Brit living in the US I totally agree more, totally fed up with the low quality shoes in wide circulation and at high prices too!
DJWerkz Definitely check out some of the brands we put in the video drop down. A lot of small, online brands are popping up. Most of these offer great quality at great prices.
@@TrentonHeath thanks, I actually subscribed to all the brands you listed so will receive email offers from now on. I will also be sending you a pair of my Loake boots for a re-sole in the near future
I get the feeling that shoes in Britain still remain true to their heritage, quality wise. Is that the case?
Danny Sunay That’s generally the case in England and Italy.
@@dannysunay8099 There is a trend of outsourcing manufacture. For instance Loakes have cheaper ranges made in India, but also more expensive ones made in England.
Man, some of these do hurt a bit... so many classic American brands seem to have fallen by the wayside. I still remember growing up in Arkansas in the 70’s and 80’s when I got my first pair of Florsheim penny loafers. Talk about saving up! Was quite the style at the time. In adulthood I’d say that 75% of my shoes are now Allen Edmonds. Once you learn their last system, it’s incredibly easy to find a solid fit. Even got married in a pair. Being a professional brewer I rarely get to wear them, but they are like collectible works of art.
My dad really never taught me fashion / dress to impress. But when he got older I realized he knew quality as he had old Florsheim or Johnston and Murphy shoes and shoe trees. Plus little things like YSL ties or London fog overcoat. I would have kept his shoes when he passed but they were too small for me.
With Bostonian being on this list, does this also include Clark’s for Boots and Wingtips?
MossbergCity very comfortable, but mostly made for one time wear.
@@TrentonHeath Vintage Bostonians, like vintage Florsheims, are still good if you can find a nice pair.
Mogician Ma Yes, very true!
MossbergCity : yes sir.
Bostonians were great when I was a kid. It was a long time ago, back when Brooks and Joe Bank's were good men's stores. Bostonian became a shell of its former self, so I just stopped buying them. Strictly A&E and Alden now.
A video on how to inspect a shoe for quality when you’re shopping is something that would be great.
th-cam.com/video/fEOnQ2tA0vU/w-d-xo.html
The first part of this video goes over things to look for.
I doubt these guys can see if a shoe is cheaply made by looking at it. They have to take it apart!
They have recommendations on the video description.
@@dannysunay8099 you definitely can tell. I can even tell by looking at the heel block just from the side and the quality of the uppers
A shoe cobbler is a dying art, impossible to find a decent one in my area.
AS A KID I SHINED SHOES FOR A REALLY GOOD COBBLER PLUS HE WAS A GOOD MAN( BILL WILSON) NOT ONLY DID I LEARN ABOUT WELL MADE SHOES I LEARNED HOW TO TREAT PEOPLE WHO DIDNT ALWAYS HAVE ALOT OF MONEY..MY DAD ONE DAY SAID U CANT HANGOUT ON STREET CORNERS U WORK FOR BILL NOW..WHEN I CAME HOME FROM M.C.R.D SAN DIEGO1971..I WALKED INTO THE SHOP BILL HANDED ME A PAIR(SHOES)AND SAID KNOCK THOSE SHOES OUT 4 ME,I SAID OK..BILL.CHICAGO!
@@davidbrewster1994 How to use the Shift key: To use the Shift key to capitalize letters, press and hold the Shift key, and push the letter you want to capitalize.
So is bespoke suit tailor. I cant even find one in my town
@@MrKillerpics some people have only one hand that works. on a typewriter you could lock the shift key but on a computer unless you want to use your chin no caps. Or if it does lock you just get caps. how someone spells or types should not make it too hard for you to understand what they are saying. TROLL
@@suesmith5746
No problem to understand what he said but it matters how it is said :*
Maybe my comment was a little bit cheeky but I am no troll at all
When I was first starting out, I made the mistake of buying some of the brands mentioned in this video. I remember being a kid and just assuming all dress shoes had rubber soles, since cemented rubber-soled dress shoes were the only kind sold at department stores and the mainstream shoe stores in my area. I bought my first pair of dress shoes when I was 17, and they were a pair of Clarks with cemented rubber soles, which I still have ironically. Not made to last, but extremely comfortable, with a cushioned insole and an outsole designed for comfort. Don't wear them anymore, but can't bring myself to give them away due to sentimental value. I recall being told to buy some of the brands you mentioned by older people as a teenager because they were "good quality." They still remembered what the quality was like back in the day.
You hit the nail on the head with Florsheim. I found a goodyear welted vintage pair that felt really well made. Compare that to their modern stuff where they use imitation stitches and fake welts to trick you into thinking it's still what it once was. Even some of the Imperials are becoming worse, as they apply a weird high-gloss finish to decent quality leather uppers. While most of my shoes now are vintage, or high-end, I do own a pair of vintage Florsheim loafers from around the late 90s-early 00s. They still had leather soles, but you can tell their quality was on the decline even then. Still way better than what they put out now. I still like them though, and they're "reasonably acceptable" all things considered. They're a nice casual everyday shoe I don't mind putting through their paces. I still look after them really well, and I've even had them reheeled once already. I expect to get many more years out of them.
As for J&M, their goodyear welted captoe oxfords are made in India. Apparently the leather has somewhat of a tendency to "flake" after awhile due to them cutting corners on leather quality and finishing (flaking is somewhat common on leather with a painted or inferior finish). The only J&M shoes I'd maybe consider would be their "Made in Italy" lineup which go for around $400, but not sure if I could trust them given how they've cut enough corners as is on their main lineup of shoes.
I've heard good things about the Myrqvist brand out of Sweden, but haven't tried them myself. A local cobbler told me he's noticed AE aren't as good as they used to be, especially in the quality of the stitching. Vintage is probably the best option to keep cost low and quality high, which is how I've scored some really nice shoes. I think once you try vintage handmade English shoes, there's really no going back. Guess I've come a long way since those Clarks lol
I love your list of shoes that are made well, but most only go up to size 14! I was a 14 for years and due to orthodics or age or both, 14s grind against my toes and are small. It could be that I buy cheap as my foot masures 13". What are your recommended size 15 shoes or 14s that might really fit? Even Allan Edmonds had mostlyy 14 as did Becket Simonon. I am in Los Angleles, so I would hope it would be easier to find those locally vs shipping back and forth.
As a former shoe salesman(at a independent, family owned men's wear store that's been in business for 95 years)...it was shocking to see how many of the brands on the list I used to sell. I always knew Aldo was crap, but not some of the other brands. Thank you for an informative video, gentlemen.
Glad that they acknowledged how cheaply made designer shoes are.
Show us how to stop squeaky boots.
We definitely have a video coming for this subject! Haha...don’t get us started on designer shoes...except perhaps one.
The Young Gentleman Depends upon where the squeak is coming from.
It depends, because designers often have tiers of quality. Ralph Lauren for example, you don't want to mess with their Lauren or Polo lines for shoes but their Purple Label and RRL lines are of good quality.
@@amanasd26 agreed, some are made by edward green.With Brooks Brothers the higher end ones are made by alfred Sargent, Crockett and Jones and Allen edmonds
10. Cole Haan
9. Bostonian
8. Aldo
7. Florsheim
6. Steve Maden
5. Kenneth Cole
4. Calvin Klein
3. Johnston & Murphy
2. Joseph Abboud
1. Stacy Adams
I obviously don't wear men's shoes but I still love your videos. It is so rare to see craftsmen at the top of their game who enjoy what they do. I also appreciate your honesty. Keep up the good work!
I bought a pair of Florsheims for the first time in the late nineties - because I was convinced that despite the high prices, the quality of manufacture was flawless. I tossed them into the trash a couple of months later and I've never bought another Florsheim since.
That’s when they moved their operations off to India and the brand suffered.
I hope Rose Anvil is watching this--he's always on the lookout for something to cut in half.
Thanks for this advice:)!!!
“Kenneth Cole.....if you’re looking at them, skip over them: Save your pennies.” Lol......Love it!
I had bought a Kenneth Cole watch for $250 on sale from the mall back in 2008 and whatever material they used for the band deteriorated within a year and I never had the bands fixed. They are selling there name more than a quality product. That's bad for business
I agree with all of these except Johnston & Murphy. I bought a pair of Johnston & Murphys recently and they have become one if my favorite pairs of shoes. They are Goodyear welted, the leather looks fantastic, and they fit like slippers.
Made in Mexico. Used to be made in Ohio, I believe and were a lot better shoe.
Buy American or UK as that is where the best shoes are made. I am not impressed one iota with Italian shoes. Alden, Allen-Edmond, Edward Green, Crockett & Jones, John Lobb, et al are great shoes with the UK ones being far superior to U.S. brands. Carmina is a good Spanish shoe which I am thinking of buying. Having sold shoes for years, I have to disagree with you on J & M. When they were made here they were great shoes but now that they are off-shore that simply isn't the case! Sorry if reality bites but that's the truth. We had several J & M's come back during my days at Nordstrom but never an Allen-Edmond or a "Too Boot" for that matter. Got to get your game up man! GET YOUR GAME UP!!
Charles Moorman Definitely much of the Johnston & Murphy line is not great quality. Many of the shoes have glued soles and less than good leather. A few models are decent, though. Not AE or Lobb quality, obviously, but decent value for money. My J&M Conards are Italian leather, Goodyear welted, and as comfortable as a pair of sneakers. I’ll take that all day for $180.
Get your game up? What game are you referring to? You sound like one of these online startup show company guys hawking off brand shoes to unwary viewers who want to try to pretend they’re rich!
No, I am not trying to sell some shoes on-line. I am not rich but I am willing to spend $800 plus to buy a nice pair of Crockett & Jones shoes as that is where I prefer to spend my money. Total amount of money spent on worthless consumer electronics for the past 10 years--0. Total smart phone monthly bill--$60. Total Utility bills for the month $20. Total money spent at Starbucks (now there's a total waste of money) the past year--0, nada, zilch. As I have aptly pointed out before, if you take the your $5 your spend for the privilege of looking cool and buying a .50 cup of coffee in all reality and times it by say 300 visits you have spent $1500 and all you have to show for it is a urine stream. Hmm, $1500 can buy some very nice shoes so quit crying the blues about how expensive high-end shoes are and implying I am an elitist. No, I spend my money on beautiful objects that last a lifetime unlike some cheap piece of crap like a Johnson and Murphy shoe!
@@chuckbuckbobuck Woah, easy there. It sounds like a touched a nerve here. I wasn't making any judgement about your shoe buying decisions nor did I request your personal budget. If buying an $800 pair of shoes makes you happy and furthers you toward your goals, go for it. I was just commenting on your use of the phrase "GET YOUR GAME UP", as if implying that somebody that doesn't choose to spend that much on shoes is losing some kind of game. I just don't know what game that is. Nobody really cares what shoes you wear, except maybe a shoe salesman.
However, now that you've opened the can, I can say that, as someone who can afford to buy nice shoes and drink coffee, I feel that spending $800 on one pair of shoes is a sure way to guarantee that you will never be rich. That money could most certainly be put to more productive use to improve your financial situation so that you can buy as many nice pairs of shoes as you want without so much apparent guilt or sacrifice. But like I said, everyone should do whatever makes them happy and feel fulfilled.
1. Stacy Adams
2. Joseph Abboud
3. Johnston & Murphy
4. Calvin Klein
5. Kenneth Cole
6. Steve Madden
7. Florsheim
8. Aldo
9. Bostonian
10. Cole Hann
Would you recommend Bruno Magli? Are those good shoes to buy?
Please Sirs, we need a list of women shoe brands to avoid, as soon as possible. Thank you .
I was looking for that in 2021!
I agree with all of this. As I have become educated in shoe construction, I’ve learned which brands are bad and which are worth the money.
I won’t wear Allen Edmonds anymore. I bought a brand new pair in Sept 2019. Later that month I was polishing them with Saphir Medalle D’or. A “dead spot” emerged on one toe. It got dark and wouldn’t accept any polish or take on any shine. After calling AE head quarters I was told that because I didn’t use their polish, it was my fault. They refused to do anything about it.
oof
Having seen what it takes repairers to make these overpriced shoes useable I'm surprised that anyone buys them.
@@anthonybarrett2342 Depending on the repair, a shoe like the AE or others end up being great value. I don't know if my issue can be fixed. Right now the shoes are sitting in my closet in the box I bought them with. I was so disappointing in how the customer service team treated the issue I just won't go back even if I can get my shoes repaired. It's a lousy way to run a business and I hope more folks know about it.
What about bass and sebago pls advise
Recently bought a pair of Johnston & Murphy’s Melton cap toe and there web site says they are staked leather heels and Goodyear welted
After watching these videos for the past few weeks I’ve realized what crap I’ve been buying for a 30+ year career. I honestly never paid attention other than shine and comfort. I just threw them away after a year or two. A convert now. Thanks for the education guys.
Joe Hala glad we can give a little insight.
It would be helpful to have a list of women's shoes to avoid.
Also a list of suggested ones to check out!
Are Christian Louboutin shoes any good? I know they're pricey, but how about quality, and that question goes for other high priced designer shoes as well.
Absolutely. I love these videos and wonder if they follow the same quality for women. If I can ever invest in a shoe, I would love to know. I have an issue with hyperhidrosis and maybe I shouldn't invest. A normal person might be interested. Not all women like to wear heels.
You know, when I worked in shoe repair, it was always such a relief to have a woman customer who could tell the difference between junk that looks pretty, and built to last shoes. I found that I had to break bad news to far fewer women when they could tell the difference. :)
Ginja Ninjaaa, I haven’t seen cobblers talking about women’s shoes.
I have a few J&M shoes. They were a good entry level dress shoe. Now that I'm more educated, I go mostly with Allen Edmonds and Beckett Simonon.
This is so me. When 1st entering the professional world, J&M. Now I've moved on to Beckett Simonon. When you know better, you do better. I just hate the wait time for Beckett.
I have to agree about Stacy Adams. Bought a pair off of Amazon for $75. The return window closed after 30 days. However, after six weeks, the insoles had completely flattened out, and the toe cap started to pop the stitching and the sole was already wearing down on the toe. It was a whole lot of money spent on a pair of shoes for a month and a half wear.
Sad say, but that seems like a lot of stuff today is made. Once pass the warranty or paid off, it falls apart.
As some one who works for one the companies mentioned, we do have higher end shoes available for order. Most the time, the higher end brand cause a sticker shock. The customer wants something cheap. Or we don’t have it to try on and they don’t want to or have the time to go through the whole reorder process. A video on why buying quality over quantity
Video suggestion: the different foot shapes and the shoe shapes that fit them.
Also, brands for wide feet
Good topic!!!!
Best brand for wide feet?
Allen Edmonds.
@@TASconfidential 12 EEE for me. I would have a better chance of finding Sasquatch than a pair of quality shoes in my size.
I wear 10.5 EE, would love to find a brand for me
@@x2Dubz - Allen Edmonds for RTW. Tricker's G fitting might be ok. Lots of options for MTM or MTO.
I have Allen Edmonds at 14EEE.
They were my first good pair, and I bought them online.
They're actually too big. I had always worn 13eee, and found out I'm 14, but I guess not 14e.
So sad great American shoemakers have lost their craftsmanship
Not really, a lot of American made brands of shoes still made here in the good ole US of A
Sad sure, but only if you’re willing do something to prevent this trend from happening in the future. Wonder if the jobs would be off-shored and employees laid off if every employee had a stake in the business?
Kenny Ingram Many Times, the American consumer is held hostage by the CEO’s who, wanting to attain a larger profit margin either for themselves or their stockholders(as in NIKE), send their products to be made in Asia. I purposely search for hours for products not MADE in CHINA and sometimes it’s very difficult. The crap they produce boggles the mind.
They're following the money. And they survived this long, which can't be said for every old shoe company.
There are still many good Made in USA brands out there. They typically are a little pricey but the durability and craftsmanship are worth the investment in the long run.
Watching you guys has made me realize that investing in high quality over brand is more important for the well being of my feet and pockets. Time for me to save money for a nice pair of sneakers, "dress shoes", and boots!
Totally agree with you. Johnston & Murphy was my only dress shoe for over 25 years. I’ve moved my loyalty to Allen Edmunds due to JMs changes and value for the dollar. They make awesome shoes here in the states which for the most part are recraftable. Don’t forget to use your shoe trees and rotate what you wear! I have a pair of Johnson Murphy Aristocrats that I bought in ‘97 and had them redrafted by JM and they still look good.
Allen edmunds are good shoes
@@Retarded_Cat what are your thoughts on Warfield Grand shoes?
Thanks for the words of wisdom about the names of shoes to avoid. You about killed me when you mentioned on the front end about Cole Haan. I have 4 pairs of Cole Haan loafers that are all about 15 + years old and 3 pairs ( brown, burgundy and black) have been reworked locally. I think that I got these at Dillards. But, the last time I looked I began to notice that these same loafers had changed in terms of their construction. The newer shoes do not seem to be able to be resoled, or at least without destroying the shoe. On the good side, I have a pair of Alan Edmonds wing tips that my mother bought for me for $ 175.00 when I was 40 yrs old. I still have them in the closet in shoe trees and they still look great. I am now 69 yrs old and although I do not wear them regularly any more, it would be close to $400.00 + to replace them.
I worked my way through school working at a Florsheim store (1962-1966). Great quality at one time. Now, they are made in India and I think even the untouchales turn away from them.
Kinda rascist but noted
I'm young, working on my Master's degree, still trying to work my way up in the economy, and own some cheaper Florsheims and a pair of Moc-toe Abbouds. At first, I was kinda curious because I thought there's no way that those shoes are cheap; granted, I barely wear these shoes except on special occasions.
After watching your guys' videos, as well as Kirby Allison's and Elegant Oxford's, I've gotten into shoe care and am now starting to understand more about quality shoes. I started using Saphir Renovateur and will soon invest in their other MDO products, especially their creme polishes, in order to protect my current "investments" and make them last even longer; not only that, I plan on investing in a good pair of shoes in the future.
Thank you guys for what you're doing. I love learning new things whenever possible. Cheers from California!
Agree with the Assessment. Shoe brands that I suggest (and own) include: (1) Alden; (2) Allen Edmonds; and (3) Church’s.
Wow! Every single selection is on my list already. No surprises here and in my shoe journey all these shoes are on my list. Again you all have verified what I already knew. Outstanding video!
As somebody who produces shoes I have to congratulate you guys. Your comments are right on
I am so happy I found your site! I have had huge issues with shoe buying for 20 years!
I use to wear nothing but Stacy Adams back in the 80's, even then, I always considered them one time wear.
Would have liked to see visual examples, though!!
@@jvasqu15 OH great!! I want to see that fiasco. Gonna find it. Thanks!!
@@gabyottich7020 I could only find this one by searching his channel for Cole-Haan. No newspaper but still pretty bad.
th-cam.com/video/-gxiY879tl4/w-d-xo.html
Thanks to you guys I now have a collection including Allen edmonds, ariat, magnanni and di bianco. Keep it up!
Oh my gosh!! I've owned all of those brands at one time or another, but I'm happy to say I've graduated to Beckett Simonon and haven't looked back!!
Florsheim is a brand I haven't thought of in years. When our last locally-owned department store went out of business back in '97 or '98, they still had their Florsheim sign up, and that was simply what you bought if you wanted quality. The two guys who ran the shoe department went on to start their own standalone shoe shop, which lasted until 3-4 years ago.
Disappointed to hear that Florsheim has gone down the tubes a bit. So many of the once-great names have done the same.
Jus gotta keep an eye out on the second hand market, I managed to snag some pairs of Goodyear welted double leather sole Florsheim's and they're still fantastic. You wouldn't think they're well over 30 years old.
Like many old brands, they USED to be fantastic. The 90s saw many luxury makers create low market products (for the poors) so someome in the suburbs can say they're wearing Armani...Exchange.
I still have Brooks Brothers suit jackets that my grandfather wore in the 60s that are still in impeccable shape.
If you find a good tailor and dry cleaner, your well-made clothes can be handed *down* to your Grandkids instead of being thrown *out* at Goodwill.
I never knew cobbling could be an entertainment show
Haha. Other than my sneakers, I’ll be donating all of my dress shoes after watching this. Thanks. Let’s do a top 10 list for shoes to buy in 2020.
That's a waste! Don't turn them into garbage just because they aren't ideal for recrafting!
fredy gump He said donation not trashing them.
I agree, would love to see the " to buy " list. I imagine it's coming up...
Long T. Tang , I gave them a list of shoes that I currently wear to review ... this was a really great video, I had to pass it onto some of my buddies so they know, it’s time to upgrade their shoe game...
Cant go wrong with a pair of Allen Edmonds. American made/Fully goodyear welted & recraftable.
There are actually a line of Joseph Abboud shoes made by Allen Edmonds that are great right now.
Thanks, I wasn’t aware! We’ll have to look into those. In this case, we were primarily referring to the Joseph Abboud brand found in most department stores.
Ethan Baker : I can see hints of DNA.
maverick lewis what does that mean here
My Florsheim dress shoes that i wear for work are some of the best i have ever worn to this day
I bought Church's years ago and they have lasted me. I would prefer a rubber heel, however. Since the original owners have sold the brand, I have not needed any more so I have no experience with them. Very nice video. Boots to avoid might be a great topic considering that we need something in the Midwest to keep us dry and stylish during the winter.
Could you talk about women’s shoes
What to avoid
What to buy today
Women’s shoes are definitely tougher to wade through. We’re trying to compile our list now.
Yes please!!! I just took my $400 Aquatalia boots to the cobbler to get it resoled, and he told me they have “fake welt”..... What?!?
@@TrentonHeath I'm not sure if you have covered this in the past, but would Carminas potentially be on this list you are compiling? I am considering a pair currently.
@@TrentonHeath Can you break the women brands down by snow boots/booties/heeled boots, heels, sandals/flats, & Goodyear welt sneakers like "Feit"?
Jessica Desir ... and by colors...
So true. I have a couple pairs of Johnston & Murphy’s I bought about a decade ago. Really love them and I developed a brand loyalty. Over the past decade And paying attention to the brand you can literally see the quality decline year over year.
Marcus Durante Yep...very true! I hate to knock J&M, as they were based here in Nashville, but I’ve witnessed their decline in quality day after day from the shoes we’ve worked on.
Marcus, you are spot on. The decline has happened so fast. I’ve got two pair from the early 1980’s that are still incredible - they don’t even seem to be made by the same company that bears the J&M today.
Marcus Durante Absolutely true. I’ve worn them for over twenty years but the quality has plummeted recently. Also, if you check out their new styles you’ll notice they’ve ditched many of their classic conservative shoes for trendy sportier ones with many more rubber sole (one and done) options than leather ones. It seems they are trying to appeal to a different customer and have lost their uniqueness in the process. And their quality has suffered because they are trying to compete in a saturated and low price point market for men’s dress shoes. I’ve switched to Cobbler Union. And I’m thinking of getting a pair of Loake boots.
I still own a few pairs of Cole Hann and donated several pairs that I have not worn to a clothing place which helps men dress for a job and interviews. However, I stepped up my shoe game by ordering two pairs of shoes from Beckett Simonon and currently own three pairs from Thursday Boot Company.
You went from Cole Haan to Thursday and called that a step up??? Ohhhh Kay then 🤦🏻♂️
Apparently you were so absorbed in your condescension that you didn’t notice that Thursday Boots were one of the recommended brands in the links below the video. Ooops.
For twenty years I bought virtually nothing else but ECCO. Unfortunately after the fifth pair the sole disintegrated and ECCO told me they would not stand behind their product I told them where to stick it.
i bought a pair of Kenneth Cole dress shoes back in 2009 and they still look new after continuous use over the years
Most of these "designer" shoes are designer in name only - and that name has been licensed to some mass producer.
I still have a pair of Cole Haan that I bought back in 97 when I worked for them and I must say the quality of their show is in the toilet compared to the quality of their shoe 23 yrs ago. Great video and new subscriber here.
Cole haan still makes stylish shoe. Key is to buy them at 70 percent off and then throw them in a couple of years. Why would you resole such cheap shoes
Agree completely with this. I love the "dress sneakers" style, and nobody does them like Cole Haan. I got 3 pairs last black friday for $200 and I'll take that all day.
G. Bruce Boyer is fond of quoting the Chinese proverb "Buy the best and you only cry once." I'll go with quality over quantity any day of the week.
@@jimpalmer2981 the thing about Cole haan, at least for me, is the dress sneaker style is more of one that gets updated and changes over the years. I would never buy Cole haan straight dress shoes, but the sneakers I probably won't want to wear after a few years anymore anyway.
@@spizzlo , Okay, legit point.
I agree with Joseph Abboud. I have a pair of black leather oxfords and after a couple years of use the outsole started peeling off. I had to use crazy glue to fix it lol
I don't dress up often at all, so haven't had much call for nicer shoes. Bought a pair of Floreshiem 20 years ago, but they'd only come out for weddings over the last 15 years. Didn't take care of the uppers, and the black had cracked and started to flake off, revealing the leather underneath. Had to get some newer dresswear for a wedding this fall, and after looking into things for a while, picked up a pair of Thursday wingtips and have since gone down the youtube deep dive that has led me to you guys.
I'd like to see a list of shoes to invest in 2020!
ROTTEN got one coming soon.
@@TrentonHeath I was thinking the same thing as ROTTEN. I've only started really dressing up for work in the last two years, so I'm still building my wardrobe. I'll admit, I have some sub-$200 dress shoes (yes, J&M) which I purchased just to get started and to find my style. I'm starting to recognize some of the nuances of quality and would like to invest in some products that will last a long time. Am I ready to drop $500+ on a pair of shoes? Not yet. I'd like to hear your take on some better quality shoe in the 2-400 dollar range. Yes, I know about Allen Edmonds, but I'd like to know what else is out there at that price point or even about others that may cost more, but are worth it.
Keep up the great work. Love seeing your subscriber count going up!
@@TrentonHeath also a good shoe for those of us who are big and tall. Comfortable shoes that last a long time and stay comfortable are hard to find.
Ditto. My current dress shoes need to be replaced, so i'm interested.
@@scottv781 Carmina is pretty much the best you can get in the 400-600 dollar range. Skip over the allen edmonds and go straight to Carmina if you want a massive quality jump. I'd recommend watching some of Kirby Allison's videos on the subject as well as his review of carmina and he even has a factory tour where he goes through everything.
I have two pairs of Cole Hans: one from 10 years ago and one from 5 years. The older one I bought because they were blue and wanted a pair. The later I bought as I needed a pair of shoe for interviews and hit a rough spot economically. I knew both are onetime wears and will not be re-soled. I have to say the Nike construction on the one is really comfortable. Many years ago in the 1980s I bought a pair of J&Ms and was happy with them until I sent them back to the company to be re-soled and they somehow messed it up. Then in the late 1990s I bought another pair and they were just not the same kind of shoe.
jlastre Yeah, we’ve owned both brands too. Cole Haan’s are comfortable...just an absolute beast to try to resole. J&M’s are hit or miss. Most of the shoes they’re turning out now are just not great quality. We still get some of the higher-end Aristocrafts in here, and they were made well. Unfortunately, a couple of years ago, J&M closed down everything here in Nashville and took all of it overseas to China, etc. Now they don’t even offer their recrafting on their higher-end products.
They went to Mexico in the late 90's . Funny there used to be lots of J&M stores in the 80's & 90's at high-end malls. Every stinking one of them are gone--that should tell you something!
As a Brit' it's good to see Loake mentioned in the worth buying list. Indeed, the pair of Loake grained brogues I was wearing today are English made and around 25-30 years old and still look great. But I also have more recent Loakes which were made in India and they are not to be recommended for the same reason you have guided your countrymen away from some long standing American brands. So it's caveat time: Loake shoes that are goodyear welted and made in England are excellent. They come in ranges including "1880". But Loake Design range is another thing entirely. I've actually had shoes from this range delaminate. I just hope they don't devalue the brand further by taking all production offshore.
Great video guys. The last pair of dress shoes I bought were Johnson and Murphy, the year I retired, 2004. I actually got them at a J&M store. However, since I retired I have not worn dress shoes but twice. I am now a New Balance guy.
100% agree with this list. I own John Lobb, Gaziano & Girling, Eremingildo Zegna and Kiton shoes only. All of them life time ownership shoes.
I really appreciate the honesty of this video my favorite video of 2020.
Keep up the amazing content, would like a review and thoughts on Magnanni.
Felix Munoz thank you very much!
I requested the Magnanni review months ago, and nothing. They did say they would do one, but nothing so far.
silent sir Sorry! Lots and lots of videos to do...on top of the actual work we have to do every day to pay the bills. 😉
Do you have any experience with Thomas Bird? I just bought a pair double monkstrap from them. This is my first ever higher quality shoe. I love it it feels and looks nice. As I said this is my first ever higher quality shoe so I can't compare the quality to any other brand, so I would like to know your opinion. I hope I did a good investment and will last for years and years.
dávid Farkas I’ve checked them out on their website before, they look like they hit a lot of the basic hallmarks not quality (full grain calf upper, stitched sole, made in Italy, good price point)- and they look absolutely gorgeous!! Enjoy!
Just be aware that a Blake stitched shoe won't last or be as durable as a GYW shoe. Generally they are more flexible and light weight and comfortable out of the box comparatively. Gyw rule for durability, ease of recraft (Blake stitched needs a special machine or can be converted to Blake rapid) and water resistance. With that said, they both are much better than cemented garbage and you just need to pamper Blake stitched a bit more.
They are beautiful shoes..enjoy
I’ve owned a lot of these, and I don’t disagree with your assessment of any of them.
Their assessment is pretty spot-on, the problem is that if your budget doesn't allow for a minimum of $250 for a single pair, these brands are about your only option. Still to your point, every guy driving a Mustang or Camero believes that his car is as good if not better than a Porsche until they own a Porsche. Once you graduate to better brands like Magnanni, which is a brand that I love and own many pairs. You won't actually know why this review is excellent.
I own a pair of Florsheim’s from around 2008 - 2009. I noticed you said at one point they were a quality shoe. When did they start to slack off? Mine are still in good condition.
I have taken dress shoes (with leather uppers which are glued on) to an old school cobbler. He stitches the sole of the shoe on to the upper by machine i believe. You cant see the stitching because it is underneath the sole. He stitches the heal on to the upper with a neat stitch by hand (I believe) through the side of the heal. It is not very noticeable at all unless you look closely. They seem to hold up well. I dont know much about how shoes are made so does this make sence?
What's your take on Magnanni? I have two pair, and they feel extremely sturdy.
They are amazing shoes. I love this brand
Would love to see a review for Crockett & Jones or Edward Green and see if my shoes stack up and if they were worth the investment. Thanks for the video!
YOu own C & J's. You are one lucky guy with great taste. I take the plunge next month. Going to New York to buy two pair. Wish they had a store on the West Coast. Don't want to order by internet--want to make they fit as $880 is a lot of money to find out they don't fit and have send back!
Charles Moorman haha that’s the product of another TH-cam channel I watch. I wish they had a store on the west coast as well... I got lucky with the sizing of my internet purchase and then I was in London to buy my other pairs so I can get my VAT refund. The refund pays for the flight to be honest. Which pairs are you looking at?
Love your recommendation of Meermin! Was surprised to see they offer classic styles for women too and I got a pair of loafers. Been looking for quality ladies loafers for ages that don't break the bank and I always found myself scouting brands making men's shoes and taking the smaller sizes. Please do a video on quality women's shoes.
Meermin IS a bullshit here in France
I bought a pair of Steve Madden shoe boots in Oct of 2018 by March they literally exploded! I used the shoes for light duty casual use. No hard hikes or rough & tumble yard work and still they exploded within two days of each other(Left foot then right). The sole detached heel without warning. I was walking in a grocery store and suddenly had this weird sensation. I had to walk by dragging the foot Quasimodo style to keep the shoe on my foot. I had the receipt and the shoes were still under Store Warranty...I took it in and they initially wanted to hassle but ultimately issued a full refund. I decided to experiment with the pair(the store said keep them)and see if I could glue the sole back on. It was testing this out that the other shoe malfunctioned in the same manner.
I see you recommend Loake. Not sure about the US, but here in the U.K. there are two distinct lines. The English made Loake are simply branded “Loake”, but there is also a lower cost line called “Design Loake”. These are made in India but so far as I am aware are still made by Loake just with cheaper labour. Seems other English brands are having parts of the shoes made and India and shipped to England for completion (Barker perhaps is one of them? 🤔). I have a pair of Design Loake and don’t see anything wrong with them (but I’m not a cobbler, nor have I needed them re-soled - they have Goodyear welted leather soles though), but thought people should know in case they think they are buying something they aren’t! Personally I don’t care where the shoes are made so long as the quality is there.
As this video shows, low cost imports have meant many former quality shoe brands are not much better than the shop own brands!
I have a pair of modern floresheims that are my "it looks like rain" shoes lol. Great idea for a video guys! Thank you, both!
Joe D.
Jdyke2059 Thank you! Haha...everyone needs some rainy weather shoes. Got some myself.
What a shame that Florsheim has gone so downhill. I used to sell for them in the '80's. The Royal Imperial line was beautiful. Other great brands that are now bad are Bostonian & J&M.
Those were all my go to shoes in the 80s and 90s. There was a Bostonian outlet not far from my house back then, and I bought 1 to 2 pair of Bostonians. Not anymore, though.
Thanks for this list! Agreed with all, but I admit that I have never bought Stacy Adams (not actually classic styling). Cannot go wrong with Allen Edmonds and Cobbler-Union. It is good that you are pointing at the elephant in the room and calling these brands what they, unfortunately, are/have become--makers of throw-away shoes. A man will save money by buying a few good AE shoes instead of buying 10 from a cheap brand that will not last.
I own a pair of Florsheim that I bought three months ago brand new for $150 and wear everyday. I’ve already had to replace the laces because they broke after a month and they are already starting to crack
I have a pair of Florsheim blue suede Oxfords and chalet cap to leather boots. Both beautiful shoes and very comfy for the price. I was blown away with the comfort on the chalet cap toe boot and stunning appearance. Not sure about the long term quality but they are more comfortable and better looking than some of the Thursday boots.