Trailer Surge Brakes. Repair and Bleed. Are they better than electric brakes?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ต.ค. 2024
- Pretty easy fix on these hydraulic surge trailer brakes. The power bleeder is essential for bleeding.
Power Bleeder:
amzn.to/3GuQW1j
Flare Kit:
amzn.to/3KMnB53
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Thank you so much for this. I have avoided brake repair my whole life because I didn't understand the tool kit. This gives me the confidence to go repair my boat trailer.
This is why I love TH-cam.. would have spent hours futzing around tryna figure this out. Thanks for the help man appreciate your time making this 👍
Glad I could help!
This was a life saver. Going to do the exact same thing this weekend. Thanks for the tips.
"I live my life a couple years at a time "
Philosophy
I appreciate the video. Straightforward, easy to follow and informative. Thanks!
Really excellent DYI VIDEO.
Look at adding the Dexter tongue with a reverse lockout. When you put it in reverse, it releases the brakes.
Excellent video. I need and want a power bleeder now. Two questions. 1 Do you need to bleed that line from the power bleeder and from the reservoir before using? Like.. is it possible to unintentionally pump air into the system? And Question #2. Do surge brakes stay engaged while the cylinder is "pressed"? What Im getting at is if the trailer can be parked with the Surge brakes engaged such as that of a hydraulic parking brake? The reason I ask is because I have a log loader/trailer combination which has surge brakes for towing. Id like to know if i am able to keep the brakes engaged while loading the trailer. Once again. Great vid
Thanks. You don’t need to bleed the power bleeder line as any air in that just lands in the master cylinder reservoir. The air rises to the top and never enters the system. For your second question, any time the tongue is under compression it will activate the brakes. That being said typically hydraulic brakes aren’t used for parking brakes because they leak internally and lose pressure (I’ve tested this in another similar but different application over many hours). Secondly trailer surge brakes work better in the forward direction than reverse. With that being said, for a short loading period up to a few hours you could rig up a way to keep the brakes engaged with a chain binder or a come a long. I’d feel confident in that
Some people call you dude. Great video I can fix the brake line. I only have one trailer will never need a power lbleeder so I will probably take it in for that after I fix the brake line unless you have any other suggestion.
With 2 people you can bleed these without a power bleeder. I used a prybar stuck into the safety chain to compress the tongue while someone else cracks the bleeder. Its an awkward motion but only takes a few pumps to bleed 1 wheel fully. Also you can use the emergency lever for this task depending on the design of your hydraulic coupler. Mine has a plate that locks the brakes on so I remove that plate and use the lever to pump them. Then reinstall plate. Good luck you got this!
@@spankranchgarage thank you for taking the time to answer my question. I appreciate it.
Use a flex/rubber line from the union…lasts SO much longer.. 🇨🇦
Most vehicles use a flex hose between the hard line & the wheel cylinder.
Correct and place some rubber absorbers to "dampen" the shock
@@kfelix2934 Funny. On the trailer application it depends on how the lines are tied to the axle. In his case a flex line of some sort would help because there are no stable anchors to the axle like there are on most RWD vehicles. A zip tie is not a secure anchor. An empty trailer bounces much more than than any vehicle like a pick up. He claims that he lives his life a couple of years at a time so if one of the lines breaks while he has a load on it there could be a disaster. There should be a tee with a flex line going from the chassis to the axle or axles. His repair will not last long. Another way to make the line to the wheel cylinder last longer would be to put a single coil in the line to absorb vibration. Apparently what he is doing is not a good repair considering that more than one line broke.
@@larryhutchens7593 lots of trailers have the zip ties. A couple wraps of electrical tape around the axle and then over the brake line before putting on the zip tie will help it last longer.
I put grease in the bypass hole of the trailer.. is that a mistake?
If so, that would be a great video I’ll be interested
If you don't have reverse lockout the shoes that are used should only work in the forward direction unless someone put the wrong gear on or they didn't install it correctly
Good video but just a thought, maybe you should mention the different brake fluids, DOT 3, DOT 4 , DOT 5. You shouldn't mix them on cars / trucks. I ran into this servicing car brakes with vehicles spread out over several years.
Great point!
DOT 3 can be replaced by DOT 4. DOT 4 can be replaced by DOT 5.1. You can mix 3, 4 and 5.1 although the higher numbers are better.
BUT DOT 5 CANNOT be mixed with DOT 3, 4 or 5.1. Any attempt to mix 5 with the other types produces a jelly like mess that does not work.
Treat video, I have a tiedown 660 actuator that has meal flakes inside from rain water getting in. Any tips?
Flakes are worrysome. I would disassemble and inspect. If the flakes came from the walls of the master cylinder bore you may be best off replacing it
Question, When you bled the lines it looked like you just cracked them gently until some brake fluid came out. Is that all you have to do? Are you listening for air coming out or using a clear tube to see bubbles?
Thanks for your help
Depending on how much air I am expecting dictates how long I keep it cracked. It comes with experience as I have made this repair a few times. Overbleeding wont hurt anything and a lot of the time its a good reason to flush out all the old fluid and replace with new.
I made a catch bottle with clear tubing that fits on the bleed nipple. The clear tube allows you to see the fluid and bubbles leaving the brake line. I also replace bleed nipples with speed bleed nipples. They have a one way check valve so it’s a bit easier to bleed without help.
Those NiCu lines are nice and flexible but pricy, u use the same.
what size break line does the 660 use? 3/16"? 1/4"?
This trailer is all 3/16" line
Where did you find the bleeding tank set up?
Its called a power bleeder by Motive. You can get them on amazon its a lifesaver
Stupid question or maybe something to think about... Nickel copper brake line has gotta work harden like copper? Wouldn't a cheapy steel line work better... less likely to do this maybe
Not a stupid question at all, a really great point actually! A steel line would probably last longer in this case. I am hoping the big zip ties make it a non issue but you are right, thanks for the comment!
Yeah the nicopp will likely work harden sooner, but if sufficiently held in place against vibration then its fine. will outlast when it comes to corrosion
Yeah it should be fine until the zip ties get UV rotted and fall off. Maybe rubber grommets and worm gear clamps are the ticket...
Can this convert to electric?
Now it’s time to plan a jeep trip to test her out 😏
How do you lock the surge brake out in case of a emergency
Do you mean lock the brake out in case of a failure? Or how does the brake engage in a hitch failure situation?
@@spankranchgarage Basically like if you we’re back or a key type
@@jasoncruz3506they have them in boat shops