I am a subscriber, great videos as usual, and your voice speed is perfect. I have a Coyote Boat Trailer made in Georgia. It has a hydraulic surge brake with the static hold/ pin feature as you mentioned to put a pin in for backing up the trailer without compressing the cylinder. The problem I had last winter, I had my local boat company winterize my boat, dropped it off in October but wasn't able to pick it up until December. With permission, I picked up my boat and trailer the day before Christmas when they were closed. When they were done servicing my boat, they backed in into a parking space which was slightly up hill. I hooked up my truck to the trailer and the actuator/ brakes were still locked up from them backing it up. I could see the actuator was still compressed, the holes weren't even close to allow the static pin to be installed. I had to drag my trailer and yank it forward about 6 times to get the actuator to release. I believe if they would of simply pulled forward 6" before uncoupling the trailer, I wouldn't of had this issue. Or, they should of put that static pin in to begin with. Sorry for the long coment, just still frustrated from that event. If you agree, maybe you can tell your viewers to always move forward a few inches before unhooking the trailer.
You aint Lying!! I got Laughed at last weekend when my trailer breaks locked up on the Boat Ramp!! That's why I am watchin this video! Definitely know what a Dirt Dobber is BTW!
Bout to try and get my surge trailer brakes working! Bought a boat last year and I noticed the brake lines are unhooked on both sides of the trailer. Not sure what all I’ll have to replace. Never have worked with trailer brakes!
Been a subscriber since the 1st video I watched! How about showing maintenance on a surge brake cylinder and linkages. How often to flush the oil, lube to use on linkages how to replace a nasty neglected cylinder including how to clean the underside of the actuator housing etc.? Also how do you determine tounge weight on your trailer without a fancy scale, can it be calculated based on axle position and weight of trailer and load?
I have EOH setup on a tandem trailer. Already cost me big time on the electric pump since my calipers were so badly corroded they allowed water (fresh/salt) past the seals and into the brake lines and eventually compromised my electric pump. The calipers were ~6 years old when I deleted the actuator and went to EOH. So the pump only lasted ~2 years before the already compromised fluid ruined the pump. Wow what a lesson - wish I would have seen this video before all that happened. Problem I am running into - even on the (nearly) brand new calipers is the bleeder screws are a pain to break loose since the rig is dipped in saltwater down in Florida 5 months/year snow birding. What is the best way (if possible) to lubricate those threads ahead of time to keep them from getting corroded?
If they are seized, I recommend PB Blaster. If you can get the bleeder screw out, you can apply a small amount of the anti-seize in the threads to prevent them from seizing. Something that would be helpful, and you should be able to find it online, is a salt neautralizing wash and spray the sensitive areas of the trailer down every time you submerge as it’s directed. I don’t have a brand I can recommend. There are a lot of them out there. I would say they are all fairly equal. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video. I have a 2015 coyote tandem axle trailer with integrated disc brakes on each wheel(single piston). The brakes are Tie Down Engineering. I recently used it in salt water and have rinsed it each time after getting home, about 50 miles round trip. The last trip I noted 3 out 4 hubs were burning hot and had cooked all the grease out of the hubs. I have repacked the hubs with new bearings and only one hub seemed to be bad(rusty). So I’m thinking it was the brakes piston not retracting and heating the rotor and hubs. I removed the back set of brakes and bled the system after replacing the brake fluid and now one of the pistons won’t retract after I activated the brakes. Do I just need to replace the brake calipers and pads? I thought about switching to Kodiak brakes so I could get slip on hubs but none of the parts are interchangeable with the TDE brakes. I live on a freshwater lake and the boat is on a lift and the trailer is in the yard. I do like the option of taking it in saltwater and want to take it to the Florida keys, about 200 miles. Don’t want to be that guy on the side of the road whose wheel came off. Do I bite the bullet and switch to Kodiak or just replace the TDEs? I’m thinking this was more likely brake failure than hub failure. In Florida you’re supposed to have brakes on each axle for loads over 3500 pounds and my boat is about 4000 pounds. Suggestions?
I would definitely say it’s brake failure. If in salt water or even a salty climate, many time fresh water rinsing won’t be enough. You will need to use some type of salt neutralizer, which should be readily available in your area. As far as switching to Kodiak, it’s whatever makes sense for your budget. Unless using a high quality stainless caliper (even those will corrode) there is still a risk of the same type of issue with the Kodiak caliper as the Tie Down if corrosion develops. Sounds like you’re going to have to replace calipers & pads, regardless. This is a very common issue in the coastal regions. Best of luck to you with it!
So glad you were able to find a solution!You’re going to want to make sure you bleed the system for it to work properly. It will most definitely have air in the system. Thanks for watching!
Thank y'all both
Have a great weekend
Thanks again for watching!
I appreciate you talking fast. Thanks for a great over view
We appreciate the feedback. Thanks for watching!
I am a subscriber, great videos as usual, and your voice speed is perfect. I have a Coyote Boat Trailer made in Georgia. It has a hydraulic surge brake with the static hold/ pin feature as you mentioned to put a pin in for backing up the trailer without compressing the cylinder. The problem I had last winter, I had my local boat company winterize my boat, dropped it off in October but wasn't able to pick it up until December. With permission, I picked up my boat and trailer the day before Christmas when they were closed. When they were done servicing my boat, they backed in into a parking space which was slightly up hill. I hooked up my truck to the trailer and the actuator/ brakes were still locked up from them backing it up. I could see the actuator was still compressed, the holes weren't even close to allow the static pin to be installed. I had to drag my trailer and yank it forward about 6 times to get the actuator to release. I believe if they would of simply pulled forward 6" before uncoupling the trailer, I wouldn't of had this issue. Or, they should of put that static pin in to begin with. Sorry for the long coment, just still frustrated from that event. If you agree, maybe you can tell your viewers to always move forward a few inches before unhooking the trailer.
Best full explanation video I have watched, great job!
You aint Lying!! I got Laughed at last weekend when my trailer breaks locked up on the Boat Ramp!! That's why I am watchin this video! Definitely know what a Dirt Dobber is BTW!
Bout to try and get my surge trailer brakes working! Bought a boat last year and I noticed the brake lines are unhooked on both sides of the trailer. Not sure what all I’ll have to replace. Never have worked with trailer brakes!
Congrats on the boat! Thanks for watching! Best of luck on those brakes!
Excellent presentation!! Thanks for the lesson.
You’re welcome! And thanks for watching!
what a great video. thank you so much for taking the time to share this information.
You’re welcome. Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Been a subscriber since the 1st video I watched! How about showing maintenance on a surge brake cylinder and linkages. How often to flush the oil, lube to use on linkages how to replace a nasty neglected cylinder including how to clean the underside of the actuator housing etc.? Also how do you determine tounge weight on your trailer without a fancy scale, can it be calculated based on axle position and weight of trailer and load?
I have EOH setup on a tandem trailer. Already cost me big time on the electric pump since my calipers were so badly corroded they allowed water (fresh/salt) past the seals and into the brake lines and eventually compromised my electric pump. The calipers were ~6 years old when I deleted the actuator and went to EOH. So the pump only lasted ~2 years before the already compromised fluid ruined the pump. Wow what a lesson - wish I would have seen this video before all that happened.
Problem I am running into - even on the (nearly) brand new calipers is the bleeder screws are a pain to break loose since the rig is dipped in saltwater down in Florida 5 months/year snow birding. What is the best way (if possible) to lubricate those threads ahead of time to keep them from getting corroded?
If they are seized, I recommend PB Blaster. If you can get the bleeder screw out, you can apply a small amount of the anti-seize in the threads to prevent them from seizing. Something that would be helpful, and you should be able to find it online, is a salt neautralizing wash and spray the sensitive areas of the trailer down every time you submerge as it’s directed. I don’t have a brand I can recommend. There are a lot of them out there. I would say they are all fairly equal.
Thanks for watching!
What would make my trailer from a stop bang while taking off only..almost as if the hitch itself is loose
Great explanations. Easy to follow.
👍👍👍✅✅✅✅🤩 thank you!!
Thank you for watching!!
Thanks for the video. I have a 2015 coyote tandem axle trailer with integrated disc brakes on each wheel(single piston). The brakes are Tie Down Engineering. I recently used it in salt water and have rinsed it each time after getting home, about 50 miles round trip. The last trip I noted 3 out 4 hubs were burning hot and had cooked all the grease out of the hubs. I have repacked the hubs with new bearings and only one hub seemed to be bad(rusty). So I’m thinking it was the brakes piston not retracting and heating the rotor and hubs. I removed the back set of brakes and bled the system after replacing the brake fluid and now one of the pistons won’t retract after I activated the brakes. Do I just need to replace the brake calipers and pads? I thought about switching to Kodiak brakes so I could get slip on hubs but none of the parts are interchangeable with the TDE brakes. I live on a freshwater lake and the boat is on a lift and the trailer is in the yard. I do like the option of taking it in saltwater and want to take it to the Florida keys, about 200 miles. Don’t want to be that guy on the side of the road whose wheel came off. Do I bite the bullet and switch to Kodiak or just replace the TDEs? I’m thinking this was more likely brake failure than hub failure. In Florida you’re supposed to have brakes on each axle for loads over 3500 pounds and my boat is about 4000 pounds. Suggestions?
I would definitely say it’s brake failure. If in salt water or even a salty climate, many time fresh water rinsing won’t be enough. You will need to use some type of salt neutralizer, which should be readily available in your area. As far as switching to Kodiak, it’s whatever makes sense for your budget. Unless using a high quality stainless caliper (even those will corrode) there is still a risk of the same type of issue with the Kodiak caliper as the Tie Down if corrosion develops. Sounds like you’re going to have to replace calipers & pads, regardless.
This is a very common issue in the coastal regions. Best of luck to you with it!
What would you suggest if the brakes don't seem to work, no pin needed and doesn't lock up in reverse
Just found it out today, seemed the oil fill was empty and couldn't tell how full it was
So glad you were able to find a solution!You’re going to want to make sure you bleed the system for it to work properly. It will most definitely have air in the system. Thanks for watching!
Brakes make a ratcheting sound very noise
Just subscribed 👍🇺🇲
Thanks for that! Thank you for watching!