7+ Advanced 3D Printing Tools
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 พ.ค. 2024
- I made a list of 7 MORE Advanced 3D Printing Tools + 2 Bonus Tools that EVERY 3D printing expert should have! If you haven't watched our 10 MUST HAVE 3D Printing Tools video, it is linked below!
10 MUST HAVE TOOLS:
• 10 MUST HAVE 3D Printi...
The following may include affiliate or partner links that help support our content creation. Thank you!
3D Gloop! and Slice Engineering are both amazing sponsors of our content.
1:
NoClogger
amzn.to/3ZQaFkd
2:
Dremel Lite Cordless Rotary Tool
amzn.to/3tz6k8Y
2.5:
Dremel Lite 110 Accessory Kit
amzn.to/3Q9m63f
3:
Digital Calipers
amzn.to/3RRxy56
3.5:
10-pack CR2032 3V button batteries
amzn.to/48NOqzK
4:
Slice Engineering Nozzle Torque Wrench
www.sliceengineering.com/prod...
5:
Cleaning filament (eSUN)
amzn.to/3F84leH
6:
Slice Engineering Plastic Repellant Paint
www.sliceengineering.com/prod...
7:
3D Gloop!
Code LMSHOW saves you 10%
3dgloop.com
Timestamps:
00:00 Intro
00:13 NoClogger
00:54 Dremel Lite
01:39 Dremel Lite Accessory Kit
02:11 Digital Calipers
03:00 CR2032 Batteries
03:25 Slice Nozzle Torque Wrench
04:02 Cleaning Filament
04:46 Slice Plastic Repellant Paint
05:25 3D Gloop!
06:39 TH-cam Members
#3DPrinting #tools #3DPrinter - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
![เปิดบ้าน เปิด Supercar อั๋นโอกิ เคยเอา rolls Royce เเลกพระ องค์ละ 100 ล้าน l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/FeGwJwXauZ0/mqdefault.jpg)
Your wall of filament is just heaven
Thanks!
Only time I have used the nozzle cleaning filament was to clear a stubborn PETG clog when I first started printing. I bought the same eSun you linked and it didn’t take much to clear the clog, so I still have some I keep in my printing drawer. Fortunately I haven’t needed it since.
Oh awesome! That’s great to hear, thank you for sharing!
In a pinch, ive heated up a small allen key to get rid of a clog. That key is now my unclogging tool
That’s awesome!
Yep, 17 bucks for a metal rod is insane when you can just use a small Allen key that comes with your 3d printed...
i have cleaning filament and it does help if you want to get rid of a nozzle clog or if you swap from Nylon to PLA so it remove all nylon before you put pla in it
as pla is at a lower temp , so any nylon that is left just cause a nozzle clog , so as cleaning filament is designed to clean up the nozzle and push out those tiny left overs as it can run at 300 degree with out problem and it wont cause any clogs ( even at 180 degree it wont clog and extrude just fine )
but if you just print pla, then cleaning filament is just a gimmick as it is mainly used to prevent clogs when you go from high temp to low temp
Makes sense. Appreciate your reply. I’ve always just heated up the nozzle to the high side and extrude a bit before printing at regular temps.
I use cleaning filament when I switch from a higher temperature filament to a lower temperature filament. It helps prevent clogs. A 3D printing pen comes in handy for minor repairs in a print.
A pen would be fun, I don’t have one yet! Which one do you have?
@@LoyalMoses I have the Mynt3D pen. I just use it to fix minor error on prints.
I always enjoy the videos. Thanks
Thank you so much! 💜
Tool one: ... welll. a bike-spoke (of you know, a simple bike like you learnd as kids to ride) is the right diameter and works just fine. About 20 cents max. at a normal bike-shop.
I use it for this perpose when needed.
Oh dang! That is a GREAT picture too!!!
Thanks for the suggestions. I've been meaning to get a Dremel. Just ordered one. Perfect timing w/ Prime Day sales.
OH! Was it on sale?! Which Dremel did you get?
I used the link in your description. Said it was a Prime Big Deal with 16% off.
Amazing, thanks for the info. Extra props for the shirt :)
Hey! Thanks! 80s and 90s kid here! 🔥
wonderfull and helpfull as always 😉
Thanks Andrew!
Looks like I'm going to have to make some purchases on Slice. That repellant paint looks so handy and the nozzle wrench
The nozzle wrench is just awesome! Also, much safer with hot nozzles!
It seems every time I need to use my calipers to measure something the battery just went out. I picked up a dial caliper instead. It's a little bit slower to read the measurement, but I'm not searching around the house trying to find out where I put those batteries. Don't have to worry about it anymore.
I know that feeling!
It's worth noting that cheaper calipers are more prone to this. What I do for mine is take the battery out if I'm not planning on using them again in the immediate future.
If you lock them it will keep them from triggering themselves on, I learned this a few years ago and stopped going through batteries constantly.
the thumbnail is awesome!!
Thank you!
I use the same eSUN cleaning filament you linked to when I'm changing filament types, especially when going from a filament with a high print temperature back to basic PLA. I feed some through at the print temperature of the last filament until it comes out clean. Then with the filament still in the extruder I raise the extruder up to the highest temp the cleaning filament is rated for (260C I think?) and let it sit/cook for a minute or two. Then I set the extruder temperature to about 190C and extrude 50-100mm in bursts while the temperature is lowering. Once the temperature is stable at 190C I start my cold pull procedure. Basically I turn off the extruder and start feeding filament until the printer stops due to temperature (Prusa MK3, I think that is about 170C). I open the filament feed gears and manually push down until I really cant push filament out. This packs the hot-end with the cleaning filament. I let the extruder cool down fully (or at least until the cooling fan stops which is around 40C) to let the cleaning filament cool and set. With the feed gears still open I turn on the extruder to 190C and start pulling up firmly on the filament around 80-90C. At around 100C the filament will release from the nozzle and I have a nicely formed cold-pull, often with some specs of left-over filament near the top of the melt-zone. Once the nozzle gets to 190C I repeat the cold-pull process until the cleaning filament comes out clean. Usually that is on the 2nd cold pull. As I recall it took a couple more pulls when I'm cleaning CF or super glittery filament out of the hot-end.
Thank you for sharing!!
I'm using cleaning fillament when going back to pla from petg or tpu.
Awesome!
Gonna get ny hands on the noclogger soon. It would have helped a lot recently. Thanks for the great ideas. And everyone should get the plastic repellent paint before oct 31 since it goes 5 bucks up (sale ends)
Definitely! I’ve used mine a lot over the years!
With the nozzle tightening tool, what torque you need depends on the hotend, I believe the E3D V6 recommends 3 Nm. I have seen some tools out there for nozzles that have multiple different torque settings, which might be more useful than a tool just for a specific hotend.
This is very true! Do you have a link for one of those other tools, I can highlight it as well.
@@LoyalMoses I mentioned the one I got for my E3D V6 in a stand-alone comment. When looking for a torque wrench with a specific fixed torque setting, I was searching for either bicycle or gunsmith t-handle torque wrenches. There are lots on the market with different torque ratings, and the t-handle styles seem to be short enough to fit between the hot-end and the print bed on all but the smallest printers out there. You'll probably have to supply your own socket for the size nozzle your printer uses though. My only experience is with the E3D V6 style nozzles that all seem need a 7mm socket. Other nozzles will probably be different.
I didn't have to use cleaning filament until I started printing with conductive carbon filament with my Revo. Cold pulls didn't work as good as the cleaning filament did.
Oh! Interesting, thank you!
I cold pull with the cleaning filament. It always gives me perfect looking cold pulls (I described my process in a standalone comment) and often the first cold pull grabs some little specs that just running the cleaning filament through misses. I bought my first roll of cleaning filament back in 2019 and I still have some left. I might need to buy more in a year or two. But, then, I don't do a whole lot of printing...
I use a noclogger. Swar by it. Also, bonus use case, works on sink and tub drains and rinses off easily before shoving it in your printer again. Cleaning filament has helped me after TPU prints. It's not a after every print thing. honestlly a good socket set and a hex screwdriver kit are the 2 most valuable tools I had, and the screwdriver set was like 10 bucks at Hobby Lobby, the socket wrench was maybe 8 at Home Depot.
Interesting use for the NoClogger... seems it fixes all clogs.
@@LoyalMoses the company actually advertised that as a use case.
Well done! Do you think gloop weighs more than super glues? wondering if this would work well on lw-pla for airplane assembly...
That’s a great question, but I imagine it doesn’t way very much at all after it cures and has evaporated.
Another thing that is a must use on my printer is a filament dust filter. I printed one off of Thingiverse, but any 3D model site will probably have several available. I got the clamshell type that takes a small piece of sponge on either side and closes down onto the filament. That way I can put one on and take it off in the middle of the filament. As the filament is drawn through the two pieces of sponge, any dust from my environment (or the manufacturer's environment) that got on the filament is wiped off. I use light-colored sponges and after use for a while when I open it I can see the dust that it's wiped off the outside of the filament. I don't think that I've had a dust-caused filament jam since I started using it.
Good idea!
Tom S says you shouldn't feed the cleaning filament through, but do a cold pull with it. I have a Wen cordless rotary. Much cheaper, and thus a better value if you don't use it constantly. Also you forgot to mention your relationship with gloop.
Awesome! I’ll update the description, but I don’t make anything from Gloop.
Very useful, thank you. I found the camera jumping around to be very disorienting
Thank you! Sorry about that.
@@LoyalMoses nothing to apologize for, it may just be me
The calipers you linked to take lr44 aka 356 batteries, not the cr2032 that you mentioned and linked to next.
I just replaced the batteries with those same batteries I showed in the video! Did I link to the wrong set?
Not sure, but the link you put in description says 2 LR44 batteries required.
Could be wrong one, or the description on Amazon could be wrong.
I was going to get another pair to see if the cr2032 batteries lasted longer. As the pair I have uses one LR44 battery (now sold and listed as 357 batteries) and it is dead every time I go to use it even though it was working when I put it up.
Is there a benefit to getting the 3D Gloop over something more versatile like CA glue?
Absolutely, gloop isn’t glue, it creates a chemical weld that is stronger than the layer lines of the prints. Amazing stuff. Similar to plumbing / pipe cement that welds ABS and PVC, etc together.
I find cleaning filament is great for when switching between higher temp to lower temp filament, ABS/ASA to PLA. I don't worry so much PLA to ABS, as we all know, ABS is printed so much hotter, the PLA doesn't stand a chance at clogging. Where as if you have some ABS/ASA (high temp filament) left in the nozzle, and you print PLA, you could have issues, theoretically :)
Correct, always extrude filament at a higher temp when switching to a lower temp filament to clean it all out!
I have a pair of calipers that seem to kill the bateries when they're off.
Anyone know a decent pair that doesn't drain the batteries when they aren't even being used?
Mine feel like they do the same, but can't confirm that!
If you have the money, Mitutoyo calipers won't eat batteries for lunch. (Maybe use birthday or Christmas money for Mitutoyo calipers?) Also, look on the various 3D model repositories for "caliper battery saver" for a mod that works on many el-cheapo calipers to allow you to disconnect the battery when you aren't using the calipers. I have one on my el-cheapo calipers and my current batteries are a year or two old.
With the plastic repellent paint, since it is PTFE based does it have a maximum safe temperature before it starts off gassing or breaking down? If so then it isn’t that good a fit with an all metal hotend since it would limit your maximum temperature until you clean it off, but would be good for non all metal hotends where you are already limited anyway.
It is rated to 290c, but I've spoken with them directly and it is actually closer to 300c.
@@LoyalMoses that's good to know but is that just the temperature it actually breaks down at? Since PTFE tubes can survive higher temperatures but the issue is fumes and offgassing.
Dude, are you kidding? Steel pole even without a handle... for 17$!?
Mine came with my Raise3D printers
@@LoyalMoses
Oh, okay. Handle adds a little value, but still a strangely high price for a long steel stick.
It's like… a set of tools for a Dremel which needs way more equipment and production speps costs just slightly more than… thick steel wire with specially shaped tip. Okey, just thoughts.
In any case, thanks for the answer!
"A PTFE based solution that you paint on your nozzle" ... and what have we learned from PTFE-lined heat-breaks? It's harmful above 240-250C ... So I don't feel coating your nozzle with it is a "must-have" ... I guess that's why we use silicone socks and not PTFE socks ...
It’s rated to 290c and I called and spoke with them and it’s closer to 300c. The more you know!