Tech tip as an ex-Ford mechanic, whenever either the battery is disconnected or the plug is removed from the throttle body, when the battery is connected, turn the ignition key to the warning light, wait 30 seconds then start the engine. This procedure enables the ECU via the TPS to learn the position of the butterfly plate, therefore avoiding idle issues.
I’ve come to this channel on multiple occasions to look for remedies. You never fail to deliver a concise guide. Tomorrow I’m cleaning my throttle body.
Was having a problem with my 1999 focus mk1 revving up and idling very high, followed this yesterday, cleaned of 22 years of carbon build up and its running like new couldnt believe it. Really great video.
Hi Horus, I was taking my throttle off to clean it out and somebody must’ve been there before and overnighted the torx bolts. As I started taking them out one of them sheared off on the manifold. When I put the three back in every seemed to look ok Would you recommend that I take it back off and put a thin bead of r tv or something similar to the corner where the bolts sheard. It’s a ford transit connect 2006 petrol, with the 1.8 black top engine. Thanks Paul.
Hey Paul, yep, if you have no way of replacing the manifold, I'd find a way to seal that (try rtv). I saw your previous message about your high rpm too... I think you may have just found the reason why your idle was high, but I think you know that now. Basically, if the mass air flow sensor is reading x amount of air coming past it at the intake pipe, but then more air is sneaking in after the mass air flow sensor (in your case at the throttle body), your ecu will be very confused. Plug that hole and any others mate.
Hello, i have a question. My mechanic cleaned my throttle body, but after that my idle fell really low and it's rough, it almost turns off when i break(i can feel it trembling) and then it goes up a bit and then back down. At what rpm exactly is your idle when the engine has fully heated and what do you believe is the case with this? Thanks a lot for your time and the informative video!
Hello, the throttle body has a special coating on it from factory. You have to use something mild to clean it like I did in this video. If your mechanic used parts cleaner, or something else abrasive that removed this coating, it will effect your idle... It may return to normal after a while, but it may not. Different people have had different experiences... Your idle should be under 1000rpm when warmed up. Abut 800rpm is perfect.
try this: disconnect the battery for 20 minutes. reconnect it. start the car and leave it at idle for a few minutes so that the computer can configure itself on whatever new configuration you have
@@panospng03 if it coincided with the cleaning maybe he installed the gasket wrong or the throttle position sensor? did he clean the mass airflow sensor too? maybe he used something other than the maf cleaner? another thing could be the idle air control valve installed on the intake that got dirty and sticks. also check if you have any leaks by blowing smoke inside one of the air system hoses
@@friedchicken1 My focus has a MAP, also what do you mean by blowing smoke? Is there some video online so I can see ? Thank you for trying to help me so much
Hi Chares, yes it could be... it won't hurt to take a look anyway 👍 If it's not the throttle body, it could also be the throttle cable. Have a look to see if it's not damaged or catching on something. Best of luck sorting it out.
Hi thanks for the comment. On these cars the rpm is electronically controlled, based on air/fuel ratio. I would double check that you don't have a vacuum leak or air leak from the intake or other hoses located around the throttle body.
No vacuum leaks, checked everwhere. Maybe because there is more air gap now between the throttle butterfly? It whas always idling at 750rpm car whas stuttering sometimes when accelerating and it whas having hard starts. Now that all is gone! Car starts very fast and pulls very smooth in every gear. But it idles at 850 rpm now.
i will make a video for you, so you can maybe understand me a little better. i can say it idles a little higher than before, but i cannot call it high idle like a vacuum leak. Normally i use to give it some gass from stop, so that the car would accelerate smoothly. Now it already moves when i release the clutch , witch i like very much now. it runs like a electronic throttlebody now. 😀
For future reference, you really should remove the Earth cable from the battery and not the positive first. For a beginner watching they might think it's safe. Good video though 👍
Removing all the throttle cables and battery is unnecessary I just removed the air filter and the T30 bolts and cleaned it right up on top of engine 10 minutes.
You disconnected the positive lead to your battery. Please in the future disconnect the negative lead to the battery. With positive being disconnected your vehicle is still live .
Very good tip, but no explanation. Here it is: because a metallic spanner is used to disconnect the terminal, it is possible to touch, by accident, another metallic surface in the area, wich is for sure a ground (connected to the negative terminal). If the spanner shortcuts the negative terminal to ground, nothing happens. If the spanner shortcuts the positive terminal to ground, it gets serious: the current of the battery is high enough to weld the spanner with highly charged sparks, causing very hot, incandescent points. Fire and injuries might very well occurre. Excuse my language mistakes, if there are any.
This is the best way to fuck up TB. There is thin layer of coating that prevents tb from leakage, when valve is closed. TB after this cleaning should be checked for leakage and remain tight. Any leakage will mess fuel map that is stored in PCM....
It is if you use Throttle Body cleaner... don't use that, use what I used instead, it works. I put the throttle body back on and Zero problems 3 months later.
@@scottykilmer1094 Ford may say that, but I can assure you that I've had no problems at all since cleaning the throttle body this way. I used a very soft bristle toothbrush so no harm done.
it really doesnt makes sense to clean out these throttlebodys from these fords. The throttlebody is made to fully be fully sealed at idle, so that the iacv is fully under control when idling.
20 years is a long time you know? you could also buy a new one with a new build in tps sensor. instead cleaning it and messing up the Ecu tuning by letting in that extra air at idle.
@@scottykilmer1094 not everyone can afford to just buy new parts when the old ones still work fine? Not sure why you keep pressing this, but don't follow the vids if you don't like what you see. I can definitely say that 7 months after doing this the TB still works fine after the clean. Nothing has been messed up, you will see that TB cleaner was not used to clean the TB, I specifically said not to use that. The coating from Ford is still intact, and the tolerances look fine - no extra air coming in, no effect on fuel economy at all, and no rough idle. Hope that helps clear it up (pun intended). You can bet that I would not have posted this vid for everyone to see if my TB was messed up after I cleaned it. It is fine, and has been for several months now.
seriously if somebody cant afford a new part for his car, should not buy a car in the first place! i didnt say you messed up your throttlebody, im just saying that this is not the way to fix a rough idle, or performance issue. its all depending on the iacv.
dont get me wrong, you made a great tutorial video no doubt ! but all im saying is that these ford (non electric) throttlebodys does not need cleaning to fix idle issues.
@@dan_6915 On their own risk. If they mess up, Ford declines any responsibility. Sadly, you cannot find any new throttle bodies for this car, it's been out of production long ago, so you are somehow forced to clean it if not working right. TPS can still be found.
Tech tip as an ex-Ford mechanic, whenever either the battery is disconnected or the plug is removed from the throttle body, when the battery is connected, turn the ignition key to the warning light, wait 30 seconds then start the engine.
This procedure enables the ECU via the TPS to learn the position of the butterfly plate, therefore avoiding idle issues.
Wow, thanks so much for that mate. Appreciate the info! 👍
Thank you 👍
I’ve come to this channel on multiple occasions to look for remedies. You never fail to deliver a concise guide. Tomorrow I’m cleaning my throttle body.
Thanks for your support 😊 an easy job that doesn't take very long - have fun 👍
Thanks again Horus. Followed your instructions and the car is breathing a lot better now with improved performance. Your Channel is a gem. Keep it up!
Thank you mate, I appreciate your support 👍
Was having a problem with my 1999 focus mk1 revving up and idling very high, followed this yesterday, cleaned of 22 years of carbon build up and its running like new couldnt believe it. Really great video.
So glad to see that the videos are useful! Appreciate your comment 👍
I did this but cleaned the TPS and MAF sensor at the same time. The car now runs with double the guts as before, nice one.
Yep, cleaning the throttle body made a big difference to me too 👍
Thank you, excellent and helpful video.
Glad it was helpful!
Hi Horus, I was taking my throttle off to clean it out and somebody must’ve been there before and overnighted the torx bolts. As I started taking them out one of them sheared off on the manifold. When I put the three back in every seemed to look ok
Would you recommend that I take it back off and put a thin bead of r tv or something similar to the corner where the bolts sheard. It’s a ford transit connect 2006 petrol, with the 1.8 black top engine. Thanks Paul.
Hey Paul, yep, if you have no way of replacing the manifold, I'd find a way to seal that (try rtv). I saw your previous message about your high rpm too... I think you may have just found the reason why your idle was high, but I think you know that now. Basically, if the mass air flow sensor is reading x amount of air coming past it at the intake pipe, but then more air is sneaking in after the mass air flow sensor (in your case at the throttle body), your ecu will be very confused. Plug that hole and any others mate.
Thank you so much for this video . درود بر شما متشکرم اقا
You are welcome 😀👍
Very Nice. 7:46 - i want my gauges do the same thing😍 any hints?
This only happens when the battery is disconnected and reconnected again. It means that the car systems are starting back up. Hope that helps.
Thank you so much for this video متشکرم از شما آقای محترم
Welcome :)
What does the sensor do for the tp? Does it also open the tp valve?
Hi mate, I think the sensor only monitors the valve position, so that the ecu can get a signal for determining air/fuel mixture.
Hello, i have a question. My mechanic cleaned my throttle body, but after that my idle fell really low and it's rough, it almost turns off when i break(i can feel it trembling) and then it goes up a bit and then back down. At what rpm exactly is your idle when the engine has fully heated and what do you believe is the case with this? Thanks a lot for your time and the informative video!
Hello, the throttle body has a special coating on it from factory. You have to use something mild to clean it like I did in this video. If your mechanic used parts cleaner, or something else abrasive that removed this coating, it will effect your idle... It may return to normal after a while, but it may not. Different people have had different experiences... Your idle should be under 1000rpm when warmed up. Abut 800rpm is perfect.
try this: disconnect the battery for 20 minutes. reconnect it. start the car and leave it at idle for a few minutes so that the computer can configure itself on whatever new configuration you have
@@friedchicken1 I've done it multiple times and it didn't work
@@panospng03 if it coincided with the cleaning maybe he installed the gasket wrong or the throttle position sensor? did he clean the mass airflow sensor too? maybe he used something other than the maf cleaner? another thing could be the idle air control valve installed on the intake that got dirty and sticks. also check if you have any leaks by blowing smoke inside one of the air system hoses
@@friedchicken1 My focus has a MAP, also what do you mean by blowing smoke? Is there some video online so I can see ? Thank you for trying to help me so much
It would be interesting if you could do a focus mk2.5 facelift model, anyway thank you for making this video I look forward to the next one
Thanks for the comments Mark. There will be other cars to come :)
Thanks for video!
Welcome, I hope it was useful 😊
Thanks for the video!
Do you need to do an adaptations after cleaning?
You are welcome 👍
Nothing else to do after cleaning. Just make sure you use a safe cleaner.
Very useful info. I have a Focus with a partially seized throttle. Could this be caused by carbon build up. Regards Charles
Hi Chares, yes it could be... it won't hurt to take a look anyway 👍
If it's not the throttle body, it could also be the throttle cable. Have a look to see if it's not damaged or catching on something. Best of luck sorting it out.
Please reply. I have a car problem with a high speed indicator. I replaced the ray sensor and cleaned the gate. Nothing changed. What is the problem?
What size engine is this?
Looks nothing like my 1.6L 16V Zetec
This is the 2.0 16V Zetec Ford Engine. It came in the Focus Mk1 Zetec, ZX3, and Mk1 Focus RS.
Seu canal é top.
Um alô do Brasil
Obrigado irmão, olá da Austrália. Obrigado pelo apoio :)
After doing this my idle dropped to 600 rpm, how do i fix this ? Thanks a lot for the informative video!
Hi thanks for the comment. On these cars the rpm is electronically controlled, based on air/fuel ratio. I would double check that you don't have a vacuum leak or air leak from the intake or other hoses located around the throttle body.
@@Horus_Works Will do Horus, thanks for the help!
i did this, the car really runs very good after doing this. But why does it idle a litle higher now when engine is fully warm? I did reset the ecu.
Hey, thanks for the comment. I'm not sure why the idle would be higher as mine is normal. Could you have a vacuum leak somewhere?
No vacuum leaks, checked everwhere. Maybe because there is more air gap now between the throttle butterfly? It whas always idling at 750rpm car whas stuttering sometimes when accelerating and it whas having hard starts. Now that all is gone! Car starts very fast and pulls very smooth in every gear. But it idles at 850 rpm now.
Oh 850rpm is fine don't worry about it. I thought it was over 1000rpm, that would be a problem to look at.
i will make a video for you, so you can maybe understand me a little better. i can say it idles a little higher than before, but i cannot call it high idle like a vacuum leak. Normally i use to give it some gass from stop, so that the car would accelerate smoothly. Now it already moves when i release the clutch , witch i like very much now. it runs like a electronic throttlebody now. 😀
In this video you can see my idle once the engine is warmed up.
th-cam.com/video/mzVQdIQrtBc/w-d-xo.html
Great instruction guide. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Where can I get
1. Throttle body and
2. throttle sensor
Fir ford focus 2005?
Try RockAuto.com: www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2005,focus
For future reference, you really should remove the Earth cable from the battery and not the positive first. For a beginner watching they might think it's safe. Good video though 👍
Thanks, good pickup.
Mine have difficulties to move when I start it in the morning
My whole body has same problem as I age. My 2002 Focus ZX3 manual however runs great.
Removing all the throttle cables and battery is unnecessary I just removed the air filter and the T30 bolts and cleaned it right up on top of engine 10 minutes.
Sounds easy!
You can never clean the throttle 100% without removing it ! 😂😂
You disconnected the positive lead to your battery. Please in the future disconnect the negative lead to the battery. With positive being disconnected your vehicle is still live .
Thanks a lot for the tip.
I was about to say this.
Very good tip, but no explanation. Here it is: because a metallic spanner is used to disconnect the terminal, it is possible to touch, by accident, another metallic surface in the area, wich is for sure a ground (connected to the negative terminal). If the spanner shortcuts the negative terminal to ground, nothing happens. If the spanner shortcuts the positive terminal to ground, it gets serious: the current of the battery is high enough to weld the spanner with highly charged sparks, causing very hot, incandescent points. Fire and injuries might very well occurre.
Excuse my language mistakes, if there are any.
This is the best way to fuck up TB.
There is thin layer of coating that prevents tb from leakage, when valve is closed.
TB after this cleaning should be checked for leakage and remain tight.
Any leakage will mess fuel map that is stored in PCM....
It is if you use Throttle Body cleaner... don't use that, use what I used instead, it works. I put the throttle body back on and Zero problems 3 months later.
The coating gets destroyed if you use a brush to clean it. Ford says only use a soft wrag with contact cleaner.
@@scottykilmer1094 Ford may say that, but I can assure you that I've had no problems at all since cleaning the throttle body this way. I used a very soft bristle toothbrush so no harm done.
Maybe if coating is gone, try graphite pencil, ill do it with my car, coating is long gone i think
What do you mean? And what exactly is the purpose of that coating?
it really doesnt makes sense to clean out these throttlebodys from these fords.
The throttlebody is made to fully be fully sealed at idle, so that the iacv is fully under control when idling.
Cleaning out the carbon build-up accumulated over 20 years of driving helped it run better.
20 years is a long time you know? you could also buy a new one with a new build in tps sensor. instead cleaning it and messing up the Ecu tuning by letting in that extra air at idle.
@@scottykilmer1094 not everyone can afford to just buy new parts when the old ones still work fine? Not sure why you keep pressing this, but don't follow the vids if you don't like what you see. I can definitely say that 7 months after doing this the TB still works fine after the clean. Nothing has been messed up, you will see that TB cleaner was not used to clean the TB, I specifically said not to use that. The coating from Ford is still intact, and the tolerances look fine - no extra air coming in, no effect on fuel economy at all, and no rough idle. Hope that helps clear it up (pun intended). You can bet that I would not have posted this vid for everyone to see if my TB was messed up after I cleaned it. It is fine, and has been for several months now.
seriously if somebody cant afford a new part for his car, should not buy a car in the first place! i didnt say you messed up your throttlebody, im just saying that this is not the way to fix a rough idle, or performance issue. its all depending on the iacv.
dont get me wrong, you made a great tutorial video no doubt ! but all im saying is that these ford (non electric) throttlebodys does not need cleaning to fix idle issues.
It's super easy to f up your car. On some MK1 models, it's easy to unmount, on others is nightmare. On all, Ford wrote: "do not clean it".
.
Of course Ford said "Do not clean".
Some owners probably placed this part in water or who knows what other liquid.
@@dan_6915 On their own risk. If they mess up, Ford declines any responsibility. Sadly, you cannot find any new throttle bodies for this car, it's been out of production long ago, so you are somehow forced to clean it if not working right. TPS can still be found.
@@phaenius
It can still be found where i live. But it's like 100 euros
@@dan_6915 Not the end of the world. In Romania I didn't find it.
You didn't clean out the IAC !
In a separate video perhaps 😊