Another great upgrade is Green Hinges that are spring loaded to keep the door lightly pressed into the edge seals even in high winds and with worn edge seals. I also hear and air condition my 26x38 garage and adding Green Hinges made a very noticeable improvement in my ability to heat the garage in single digits weather with my 38,000 BTU hanging Reznor natural gas furnace.
We just turned our second garage bay into an exercise area. I was just looking into doing this to our doors, and behold, the tuber dinged me of a new video from Mr. Jason.
Magic! It's noticeably better for sure. One happy surprise is it makes the garage less echoey... which is nice if you're weird and enjoy making videos in your garage like me.
I used the reflective foam boards. Just cut to size. Took a day or two much less heat loss in winter and less gain in summer. It is a lot quieter in the garage now
@@dreamingrightnow1174 If you are heating/cooling that space, the higher R value foam board will be a better long-term solution. And to add into this subject of garage insulation; in most areas, if the garage is not heated/cooled and has no living space above it (or is detached), it won't likely have any insulation in the walls/attic whatsoever. If you insulate a space without heating or cooling you risk having mold issues. due to excess condensation. That said, either foam or this foil-wrapped-bubble-wrap will help knock down that radiant heat regardless of your overall garage insulation.
Great video. Also used Reflectix on my garage door recently. I ended up using aluminum tape. It worked good, but definitely not as clean looking. Those 90 degree angles can be a bugger.
Nice job. I noticed you might want to consider taking the handles off your emergency door-release ropes. Thieves use coat hangers to slide in and snag the rope and pull to the side. They can release the door and open from the outside. if you take the handle off and melt the tip of the rope, it won't unravel and makes it much harder for someone to pull it loose. Just make sure the rope is not long enough to be pulled all the way outside (cut it off just shy of the door face and melt the end. You can still grab the rope and wrap it around your hand to pull and release it from inside during an emergency.
Or just cover the cord with a thick pool noodle. That makes it virually impossible for thieves to pull the rope from outside and keeps the pull cord usable from the inside.
Thank you!!! All the other videos I’ve seen have garage doors with channels to set the foam boards into. My door is like yours, so this was the most helpful to me. I was about to give up on the idea! I appreciate this so much!!!
Somebody, I forget the name of the company, makes a section of door track that has waves in it at the level where each roller is when the door is all the way down. The waves peak outward, so it pushes the door out....meaning it then seals against the weather stripping, which is the same type used here, plus another layer of foam stripping that creates a really good, tight seal and is solid, the door won’t shake or rattle in the track when the wind blows because the track pushes the door out firmly against the weather stripping. I think it makes a world of difference and the tracks weren’t expensive. Weather stripping was a little more than regular door stripping but not bad. Well worth it. And if you put a new bottom seal on the door as well, you’re in great shape for winter or summer.
Hmm, not sure what you mean but maybe someone else will chime in. I don't really have issues with the door rocking back and forth after doing the new exterior seals. The current bottom seal is in good shape.
@@JasonExplainsThings Consider me that someone else! Lol. I was just watching another video by Matt Risinger and the good ol' algorithm lead me here. th-cam.com/video/h7pEGEyVBLI/w-d-xo.html Sounds like you're talking about ThermoTraks. Matt details the product pretty well but essentially it's a replacement track that, rather than being straight, bumps forward at each hinge so when the door is all the way down, the whole thing pushes forward for an even better seal. Matt does a better job explaining it than I do. Looks like it would really complement the work you've already done. Great video, BTW! I just subscribed. Looking forward to even more great content!
I'm just stopping to say TH-cam recommended this video and your channel to me. Nice garage door upgrades. I've seen people use the rigid foam insulation for their doors. This seems like a much easier solution. Hope it works out great for you.
@@ImAlwaysFrisky seems you could try to do the radiant barrier, with a rigid foam layer on top? I mean, you lose the pretty silver appearance, but it might bounce heat and act as an insular thermal barrier(?) too.
Liked and subscribed for two reasons: 1. - good information delivered at a good pace (not a lot of useless over-explaining or off-topic backstory) 2. - didn’t START the video asking to subscribe and hit the bell. Can’t tell you how irritating that is. How do I know if I’ll like, and want to subscribe, before even watching the video?
Thanks man. Nagging for subs/likes is awkward for sure. I try to do it as not-annoying as possible. But growing a channel is really hard. This video has blown up magically, but most of my stuff doesn't get much love.
I would recommend the gorilla glue high temp double sided tape. That two sided tape will get brittle and lose grip and the insulation on the door will come off.
Tha. t radiant barrier rolls is what they put under the roof in the Philippines . If the ceiling has already been put in , they put it against the ceiling . The white side out and silver side in, as well against any walls . It supposedly has greatly reduced the heat there has it gets HOT and HUMID .
This works. I did it on my garage doors about 4 years ago. With nothing, I took a temp reading during summer in So Cal and it was 120* on the inside of the door. I did a similar install and then took a reading after completing and the interior door read 90* in similar conditions.
@brian bailey in an insulation install where you are looking to gain R value yes, an air space is recommended. insulation works by trapping an air space. To do this all sides must be sealed off. In a garage door application however, you aren't necessarily trying to gain R value but rather add a reflective barrier. In Jason's application, he added double bubble Reflectix so he gained the R value of just the bubble which is R1.1 and also gained a radiant barrier which blocks 96% of radiant heat in both directions meaning that in the summer his doors only transmit 4% of the sun's energy through his door and in the winter he retains 96% of his heat source that used to be transferred through his door. I hope this makes sense.
@@toddhare8225 it does make sense and tns a lot for clarifying all that. I would think tho that if he were to have sealed of the perimeter and also found way to create that air gap it would be even better. I have a question.. what constitutes "air" in this scenario for reflectix. Can loose sheep wool for example still be considered air? It would add R Value but also not conduct heat....or would foam board and then a layer of reflectix work?
@brian bailey no problem. The issue with creating an air space on a garage door is the the door becomes thicker and in some cases too thick to operate correctly. Yes a trapped air space is better and could increase the R value up to an R4.1 in this application. All insulation work by trapping air spaces. So yes, in wool or fiberglass insulation there is air trapped within the fibers. This is why a fiberglass R13 is reduced when you smash the product down. You didn't remove any product but you do remove air.
The problem with all vinyl weather stripping is that the vinyl shrinks over time and will become too short. Overcome this by cutting the vinyl longer than it needs to be at installation. This goes for the door bottom too. Look at your service door and house door weather stripping. You will likely find that they are all now too short.
On thing I've found with double-tape is after a few months or years it can let go. It helps if you add a single thin bead of caulk around the edge. The tape will hold it in place until it dries, the caulk won't let go but can still be removed in the future if needed.
@@JasonExplainsThings Most recently, I built LED strips for under counter lighting. The tape started failing a few months in, but a dot of silicone caulk every 6" secured it. This is a great video, thanks.
That makes total sense. If you check out the update video I talk about this a little. I think one reason the tape works well is because the Reflectix is kinda friction fit into the doors. So the tape isn’t having to support the weight, just keep it stuck in place.
These doors were installed in the 90s?.... I gotta say that the condition of these doors are pretty amazing to have that many years on them. The weather seal on the outside didn't even look that old.
Something you can do for your weather stripping, you can use aerospace 303 protectant or any other car trim Uv blocking dressing to help the stripping from rotting away as fast
My neighbor across the street needs to see this. His doors are potato chip thin. I have insulated doors and yet the first half of the day totally heats up my space. I may have to look into this.
Not the worst thing I’ve seen definitely not the best, once you add weight to those panels it’s going to off weigh the spring. Now what you should do now is weight the entire garage door & replace your current spring with one with one for the new weight of the door. You have a 9100 wayne dalton with a R value of 7.7.
You should take the time to figure out the weight of the door and then the added weight of the insulation before you give people advice. This insulation is very light and you're wrong. Devin
@@stevenferro you don’t need the weight of the door before the insulation, becuase you can look up what a 9100 solid weights, also it tells you on the TMS SPRING. Put a scale under the door with the insulated added, back wind the spring and boom. Configure springs and done. Not wrong
I will be interested to know how long the double backed tape can withstand the sun heating from the outside. I just can't see this holding up very long. Great idea that I would copy if the tape would hold up. I think the reflective foil would help with the lighting in my garage also.
you can also do some with the barrier in-between each panel when the door goes up the gap doesn't get any longer, it just bens. so it will work just fine.
I really need to add some weatherstripping to my garage doors, and replace the gasket on the bottom. Someone added some rigid foam insulation to the inside of the doors, but it doesn’t do much good with zero weatherstripping on the outside. 😕
Nice. Yeah the shape of my doors made adding rigid foam not an option. I’ve also heard it can cause issues with the garage door opener and springs because of the added weight.
@@JasonExplainsThings my doors are original to the house, from 1960. Solid doug fir frames with old (dense) plywood panels make for an extremely heavy door. I’ve been meaning to get a garage door company to come take a look because I don’t think they have enough spring tension, and that is something I’m NOT willing to mess with DIY. 😆
@@MukYJ Good call on not messing with those spring tension systems. There is a major amount of stored energy in those things ... enough to do serious (potentially fatal) damage. You gotta know what you are doing. Not saying that there aren't safe ways to do it; there clearly are.
Jason, it's been a year since you did this. Please share the changes in comfort and utilities. You can't use $$$ since everything has gone up. I'm looking forward to hearing from you!
Contrary to lots of comments… 😉 it operated as before just fine. But weight can be a concern. That’s why I went with a radiant barrier instead of rigid foam or fiberglass.
My main concern was weight with foam boards. The springs and opener may have issues. (See all the comments about how the light stuff I installed will explode and cut people in half 😜)
Awesome vid and new subscriber. We just bought a house out in rural Texas and found posts from all the neighbors about snakes getting into their garages so my wife is freaking out. Any recommendations for a quality bottom door seal on the garage door?
I have torn out many many garage doors where people have tried to install that crap and it was just falling off not only that the doors were unbalanced because of the added weight it's not a good idea great video great idea but you have to adjust or change the springs if you're going to do that just saying you might as well install brand new steel back garage doors
The doors in this video are wayne dalton 9100 they are fiberglass doors which are crap, the easiest way to install the perimeter seal is a trim nailer instead of a hammer. Also note that adding weight to your door will strain the opener and may need to add spring tension to balance the door properly. Would be best to just get an insulated garage door that has a 1 7/8 thick insulation and the R-value on those are about 9-12 R-value depending on the color.
Update video covers this. I love the criticism of making an existing door a little better for $200 vs paying $3500 on a new door. Makes me roll my eyes pretty hard. ✌️
Dont know where your getting your prices from but an insulated door doesn't cost anywhere close to $3500 lol. Great video by the way, dont get upset from criticism it's how people get better at what they are doing.
Waste of money. The garage door is already a radiant barrier (why they are painted white generally). Without an air gap the reflectix it’s virtually useless. Rigid insulation is the way to go against the door. For added protection add the reflextix after. Also, the heat is going to cause the double sided tape to release.
Central WA is a very dry place so that's not an issue for me. I've seen mold in fiberglass insulation at my house near Seattle back in the day... but haven't heard of that being an issue with reflectix.
@@JasonExplainsThings awesome! Please show it off when you use it. I purchased a Seek thermal camera and it's come in super handy. Keep up the great content!
Back to Low-E made by Environmentally Safe Products in New Oxford pa. There is metal building roof thermal imaging available on the website under their Low-E product (there are other products available for specific applications) done by professional 3rd party
Here's some answers to common questions! Thanks for watching. :-) #1 HAS THE TAPE HELD UP? Yes, I have not had any peeling at all. And it's the hottest summer ever here. It was 113 degrees a few weeks ago. But use high quality tape and thoroughly clean the doors before applying tape. #2 WON'T THE INSULATION CAUSE ISSUES WITH THE DOOR OPENING/SPRINGS? No. The radiant barrier is light enough that it doesn't effect the door operation at all. It's also provided some slight soundproofing improvements as well. #3 THAT THIN CRAP DOES NOTHING! YOU NEED THICK INSULATION! No. That WOULD result in issues with the door opening and closing. #4 WHAT ARE THE RESULTS?! First, the noticeable soundproofing because of the air pocket between the insulation was apparent immediately. For temperature control it didn't do anything noticeable during the winter, but it's been great in the summer. I don't have any temperature readings (summer weather before/after) because that would require me to take stuff off (installed in January). But the shop doesn't get nearly as hot as it did last summer. This combined with the heat pump I installed has kept the shop comfortable to work, and hang out in all summer. #5 A NEW GARAGE DOOR WOULD BE BETTER! Yes, of course. But that would cost $2500 or more. This project costs 10% of that. #6 RADIANT BARRIERS NEED AN AIR GAP! Yes they do. I talk about that at 5:25 and show that I have a 1/2" air gap. This helps with sound and insulation.
I think you'll find that after awhile that 2 - way tape you used dries up and looses its adhesion. That's my experience in using it where I work. Iight have chosen to use a liquid adhesive like a liquid nails type of adhesive.
Thanks for the update. I was debating buying foam boards to install on my doors, however after seeing this product, I’ve changed my mind. I live in Texas and really couldn’t care less about keeping out the cold. You might want to pin your comment at the top so folks don’t have to scroll through searching for an update 👍
I'm going to go for the double-side adhesive. I figure it'll degrade after a while, but by then I may want to upgrade or repair the insulation. Very nice. Extremely helpful.
I have used the reflective material over 8-years ago. It has lasted longer than the double sided carpet tape I found to install. It added no weight to the doors and helps on summer heat.
Try Low-E reflective insulation manufactured here in USA by Environmentally Safe Products in New Oxford PA .. has more stable core and is real aluminum not mylar film
I put purple foamboard insulation in the inside of my garage door, made all the difference R-value 10 as well as outside weather stripping. ALSO I had Radiant Barrier installed in my attic (painted roof, attic tent for hole and more insulation in attic as well as sealing can lights. Cut my electric bill on 2500 sq ft from $400-$600 to $150-$200).
@@IbelieveinJesusAmen Radiant barrier is painting attic ceiling, adding more insulation, attic stair tent and sealing all can lights and added LED's light bulbs.
This project is on the schedule for this fall. How was the rubber strip along the bottom of the door? I thought you might mention that. I’m going to replace mine at the same time I do the insulation and top and side weatherstripping because mine is pretty beat.
Instead of going horizontally with radiant barrier.. I went vertical.. this allowed for a large airgap between barrier and door panels. The result was even better.. the air gap allowed for much greater difference between outside temp and inside temp. The air gap is key.
Serious shop envy Jason. Keep us posted on how well this performs in the coming months. Getting a garage/shop designed and built myself at the moment, can't wait to get in & start the fit out 👍
if you have left over radiant barrier you could cut a thicker piece for the seams, so it can flex as the door opens, kind of like those Large 2 part city buses. Might not matter in the end but it might help with Temps.
@@JasonExplainsThings Have you seen/felt any improvement? Done any temperature tests? I'm in Houston and have been looking into doing this for my garage, but wasn't sure if the radiant barrier would help, especially if the heat would just flow up the air gap and back into the garage.
Woah! Thanks Ben. I binged a bunch of your GoPro videos a while back. Yeah I try to push quality on everything I put out. Views are all over the place, but I love doing this just the same.
You have WD Foamcore/Thermocore doors which are the worst doors on the market by miles. This means you have plastic rollers and the worst of everything door related. Buying new doors makes far more sense for a 100 different reasons. The band aid you are teaching here is a poor choice as those doors are not worth investing a penny in if you are planning on having a heated space. I’d add you are also changing the weight on already super light doors which affects the torsion springs where they will break sooner and it will also add weight to the lift master openers which can affect the plastic gear in the operator. Not a huge concern but just pointing out this is a bad idea on many levels. Just as your weatherstripping advice was. As someone who installs it daily on new installs in many different environments last 20 years, you were using the wrong tools( you don’t use a razor blade) and you certainly don’t notch it. You are setting people up for failure and to possibly get extremely hurt if they were to take the bottom fixture off watching you take the top fixture off and not knowing the difference. One does very little, the other will tear 1/2 your face off. Lastly, you don’t go to Home Depot for garage doors. That’s how you got the junk doors you have now. You go to a garage door professional where you can get high quality doors R-12 to R-18 for well under $1000 installed unless you get windows where the price will escalate. Call around and get quotes. You will find the pricing is all over the place. Last thought as well…. You are not putting any barrier on the actual place where the door loses most the heat which is between the sections. This fix will fix nothing.
Hello Mr. Know it all. Let me know when you roll out a video so we can all learn the right way. Btw, I've done similar thing to my garage door and it worked great and made a huge difference.
@@CapturedYou of course it’s not… that is until someone takes the screws out of the bottom fixture and ends up in the emergency room. Installing garage doors the last 20 years has shown me just how often this happens. In a company with around 30 installers, at least 1/2 of the guys have had at least one trip to the emergency room. And I know of 2 people who were clueless enough to take the bottom fixture off while it was under tension and one of those 2 guys lost 1/2 his face.
@@derfskittlers6125 not a know it all, simply a garage door expert with over 20 yrs experience installing new doors as well as repairing old doors/operators. Sorry industry professionals bother you so much. I’m betting you would choose an actual experienced surgeon if you needed surgery rather than a random guy who knows how to record a video on his iPhone. Though with your incredible logic and reason I could be wrong.
Did you take temperature readings before and after installation of the insulation? That’s better to know than a few pennies saved on the electric bill.
UPDATE VIDEO! Here's the results of this project and answers to your comments! th-cam.com/video/gzqc01BDIEU/w-d-xo.html
Another great upgrade is Green Hinges that are spring loaded to keep the door lightly pressed into the edge seals even in high winds and with worn edge seals. I also hear and air condition my 26x38 garage and adding Green Hinges made a very noticeable improvement in my ability to heat the garage in single digits weather with my 38,000 BTU hanging Reznor natural gas furnace.
We just turned our second garage bay into an exercise area. I was just looking into doing this to our doors, and behold, the tuber dinged me of a new video from Mr. Jason.
Magic! It's noticeably better for sure. One happy surprise is it makes the garage less echoey... which is nice if you're weird and enjoy making videos in your garage like me.
@@JasonExplainsThings Do you have an update for this video on how much improvement you had?
I love little quality of life projects like this. Also refreshing to see a humble homeowner just going with the flow 👍
This is a very practical approach to reducing heat transmissibility. The weather stripping is very important.
lovely! very good idea. I do wish that you had a before and after comparison with a temperature detection gun! and show that the cool spots are gone!
One of the first videos that has a garage door like mine so I can actually follow along and update my door. Thanks
I used the reflective foam boards. Just cut to size. Took a day or two much less heat loss in winter and less gain in summer. It is a lot quieter in the garage now
Those are a lot spendier though?
I did the same, the springs for the garage door needed an adjustment after the foam board was added but it was a nice improvement.
@@dreamingrightnow1174 If you are heating/cooling that space, the higher R value foam board will be a better long-term solution. And to add into this subject of garage insulation; in most areas, if the garage is not heated/cooled and has no living space above it (or is detached), it won't likely have any insulation in the walls/attic whatsoever. If you insulate a space without heating or cooling you risk having mold issues. due to excess condensation. That said, either foam or this foil-wrapped-bubble-wrap will help knock down that radiant heat regardless of your overall garage insulation.
Same. Much easier and more effective.
Great video. Also used Reflectix on my garage door recently. I ended up using aluminum tape. It worked good, but definitely not as clean looking. Those 90 degree angles can be a bugger.
Nice job. I noticed you might want to consider taking the handles off your emergency door-release ropes. Thieves use coat hangers to slide in and snag the rope and pull to the side. They can release the door and open from the outside. if you take the handle off and melt the tip of the rope, it won't unravel and makes it much harder for someone to pull it loose. Just make sure the rope is not long enough to be pulled all the way outside (cut it off just shy of the door face and melt the end. You can still grab the rope and wrap it around your hand to pull and release it from inside during an emergency.
Or just cover the cord with a thick pool noodle. That makes it virually impossible for thieves to pull the rope from outside and keeps the pull cord usable from the inside.
Thank you!!! All the other videos I’ve seen have garage doors with channels to set the foam boards into. My door is like yours, so this was the most helpful to me. I was about to give up on the idea! I appreciate this so much!!!
Somebody, I forget the name of the company, makes a section of door track that has waves in it at the level where each roller is when the door is all the way down. The waves peak outward, so it pushes the door out....meaning it then seals against the weather stripping, which is the same type used here, plus another layer of foam stripping that creates a really good, tight seal and is solid, the door won’t shake or rattle in the track when the wind blows because the track pushes the door out firmly against the weather stripping. I think it makes a world of difference and the tracks weren’t expensive. Weather stripping was a little more than regular door stripping but not bad. Well worth it. And if you put a new bottom seal on the door as well, you’re in great shape for winter or summer.
Hmm, not sure what you mean but maybe someone else will chime in. I don't really have issues with the door rocking back and forth after doing the new exterior seals. The current bottom seal is in good shape.
@@JasonExplainsThings Consider me that someone else! Lol. I was just watching another video by Matt Risinger and the good ol' algorithm lead me here. th-cam.com/video/h7pEGEyVBLI/w-d-xo.html Sounds like you're talking about ThermoTraks. Matt details the product pretty well but essentially it's a replacement track that, rather than being straight, bumps forward at each hinge so when the door is all the way down, the whole thing pushes forward for an even better seal. Matt does a better job explaining it than I do. Looks like it would really complement the work you've already done. Great video, BTW! I just subscribed. Looking forward to even more great content!
That sound effect you made SHOOOOB !
I'm just stopping to say TH-cam recommended this video and your channel to me. Nice garage door upgrades. I've seen people use the rigid foam insulation for their doors. This seems like a much easier solution. Hope it works out great for you.
I was just saying that... GOD yes!
I think the rigid foam is more effective; Higher "R"
@@robertmathers7852 I’m in Texas so that is definitely good to know
@@ImAlwaysFrisky seems you could try to do the radiant barrier, with a rigid foam layer on top? I mean, you lose the pretty silver appearance, but it might bounce heat and act as an insular thermal barrier(?) too.
This is something I need to do, so thank you for the entertaining, but informative, tutorial.
Liked and subscribed for two reasons: 1. - good information delivered at a good pace (not a lot of useless over-explaining or off-topic backstory) 2. - didn’t START the video asking to subscribe and hit the bell. Can’t tell you how irritating that is. How do I know if I’ll like, and want to subscribe, before even watching the video?
Thanks man. Nagging for subs/likes is awkward for sure. I try to do it as not-annoying as possible. But growing a channel is really hard. This video has blown up magically, but most of my stuff doesn't get much love.
How many digits do you have dropped off in side after you do the Insolation? Thanks and God Bless you!!!
I would recommend the gorilla glue high temp double sided tape. That two sided tape will get brittle and lose grip and the insulation on the door will come off.
Great tip! 👍
@Clay Johnson How cooler does this make a space?
Liquid nails also makes a caulk-like adhesive that can endure up to 120F or 140F depending on the version.
Tha. t radiant barrier rolls is what they put under the roof in the Philippines . If the ceiling has already been put in , they put it against the ceiling . The white side out and silver side in, as well against any walls . It supposedly has greatly reduced the heat there has it gets HOT and HUMID .
Would have been nice to see the temperature readings before and after.
This works. I did it on my garage doors about 4 years ago. With nothing, I took a temp reading during summer in So Cal and it was 120* on the inside of the door. I did a similar install and then took a reading after completing and the interior door read 90* in similar conditions.
Check out the update video.
I work for Reflectix.. Nice job on the install!!
Awesome, thanks Todd.
arent you supposed to have a half inch minimum space in between the metal and the reflectix??
@brian bailey in an insulation install where you are looking to gain R value yes, an air space is recommended. insulation works by trapping an air space. To do this all sides must be sealed off. In a garage door application however, you aren't necessarily trying to gain R value but rather add a reflective barrier. In Jason's application, he added double bubble Reflectix so he gained the R value of just the bubble which is R1.1 and also gained a radiant barrier which blocks 96% of radiant heat in both directions meaning that in the summer his doors only transmit 4% of the sun's energy through his door and in the winter he retains 96% of his heat source that used to be transferred through his door. I hope this makes sense.
@@toddhare8225 it does make sense and tns a lot for clarifying all that. I would think tho that if he were to have sealed of the perimeter and also found way to create that air gap it would be even better.
I have a question.. what constitutes "air" in this scenario for reflectix. Can loose sheep wool for example still be considered air? It would add R Value but also not conduct heat....or would foam board and then a layer of reflectix work?
@brian bailey no problem. The issue with creating an air space on a garage door is the the door becomes thicker and in some cases too thick to operate correctly. Yes a trapped air space is better and could increase the R value up to an R4.1 in this application.
All insulation work by trapping air spaces. So yes, in wool or fiberglass insulation there is air trapped within the fibers. This is why a fiberglass R13 is reduced when you smash the product down. You didn't remove any product but you do remove air.
The problem with all vinyl weather stripping is that the vinyl shrinks over time and will become too short. Overcome this by cutting the vinyl longer than it needs to be at installation. This goes for the door bottom too. Look at your service door and house door weather stripping. You will likely find that they are all now too short.
THIS REALLY MAKES A DIFFERENCE. I USED FOIL TYPE. MY GARAGE DOORS BAKE IN FULL SUN ALDAY. REDUCED HEAT BY ALEAST 20 DEGREES 👍👍❤️💋
Looks good. I need to do some weather stripping to my garage door.
On thing I've found with double-tape is after a few months or years it can let go. It helps if you add a single thin bead of caulk around the edge. The tape will hold it in place until it dries, the caulk won't let go but can still be removed in the future if needed.
Cool tip. In January it'll have been in place for a year. I've had zero issues.
@@JasonExplainsThings Most recently, I built LED strips for under counter lighting. The tape started failing a few months in, but a dot of silicone caulk every 6" secured it. This is a great video, thanks.
That makes total sense. If you check out the update video I talk about this a little. I think one reason the tape works well is because the Reflectix is kinda friction fit into the doors. So the tape isn’t having to support the weight, just keep it stuck in place.
These doors were installed in the 90s?.... I gotta say that the condition of these doors are pretty amazing to have that many years on them. The weather seal on the outside didn't even look that old.
It was pretty bad in person... very brittle.
Something you can do for your weather stripping, you can use aerospace 303 protectant or any other car trim Uv blocking dressing to help the stripping from rotting away as fast
Good tip. Any kind of foam strips can't take UV for long.
Hey mate, those Star Wars effects look cutting edge! Just make sure you include plenty of Jar Jar and it should be a hit! hee hee.
Great video! Like that insulation! Thanks for sharing! 👍
My neighbor across the street needs to see this. His doors are potato chip thin. I have insulated doors and yet the first half of the day totally heats up my space. I may have to look into this.
It’s not a magic bullet but it definitely made the old doors a little better. :-)
awesome video and I learned a lot
Thanks James. It turned out well I think.
Great job, Great video!!!
Nice workshop
looks great, going to do it my garage this weekend in the Pacific NW.
You’ll love it. I’m definitely noticing a difference.
@@JasonExplainsThings Is it keeping your garage cooler?
@@roadsta97 Yes, very much so. That combined with the heat pump keeps it very comfortable.
Hell ya lets gooooo, im about to do this too , thanks for the tips
Not the worst thing I’ve seen definitely not the best, once you add weight to those panels it’s going to off weigh the spring. Now what you should do now is weight the entire garage door & replace your current spring with one with one for the new weight of the door. You have a 9100 wayne dalton with a R value of 7.7.
For weight concerns see my update video.
You should take the time to figure out the weight of the door and then the added weight of the insulation before you give people advice. This insulation is very light and you're wrong. Devin
@@stevenferro you don’t need the weight of the door before the insulation, becuase you can look up what a 9100 solid weights, also it tells you on the TMS SPRING. Put a scale under the door with the insulated added, back wind the spring and boom. Configure springs and done. Not wrong
excellent video
Nice music too.
Nice job , little things we all need , have a basement project coming up , have you done anything like that?
Was under the impression that the reflective side goes to the exterior to reflect the heat?
Both sides are reflective.
Awesome idea 👍🏾
Good job bravo.
Great video, thank you!
Sweet video man
Wouldn't the glue on the double side tape melt when it's too hot? My garage door is black, facing the sun, and in Florida!
A black garage door in Florida?! Yikes.
In my case it’s held perfectly. We get really hot in the summer, but not very humid.
I will be interested to know how long the double backed tape can withstand the sun heating from the outside. I just can't see this holding up very long. Great idea that I would copy if the tape would hold up. I think the reflective foil would help with the lighting in my garage also.
Over 2 years now and the tape hasn't failed at all.
Well find out if it's a bad idea! 🤣 My buddy and I say stuff like that all the time. Lol
you can also do some with the barrier in-between each panel when the door goes up the gap doesn't get any longer, it just bens. so it will work just fine.
TH-cam just today suggested this video to me
A surprise to be sure! But a welcome one. ;-)
I think I need better double sided tape because mine started to come off with the cold weathar-moisure build up on the door.
Check out the update video I just posted.
Can you paint the trim pieces you are installing? My garage door side panels are a different color then the door is. Thanks
What about the temperature after the installation?
I made an update video that covers the temp benefits.
No doubling up insulation with foam boards underthe reflectix? Too heavy for opener motor?
It would be too heavy in my opinion.
My boy, let get solar put on that bad boy ASAP!
Maybe someday. I live in a great location for it.
Nice job!!
Hey did you ever get a chance to get some thermal cameras and make an update video? if it isn't worth it, i understand.
Hi Craig. Thermal cam is ordered and I’ll put out an update video this month.
Did those doors have any insulation to begin with?
There’s a tiny layer of foam but that’s it.
I really need to add some weatherstripping to my garage doors, and replace the gasket on the bottom. Someone added some rigid foam insulation to the inside of the doors, but it doesn’t do much good with zero weatherstripping on the outside. 😕
Nice. Yeah the shape of my doors made adding rigid foam not an option. I’ve also heard it can cause issues with the garage door opener and springs because of the added weight.
@@JasonExplainsThings my doors are original to the house, from 1960. Solid doug fir frames with old (dense) plywood panels make for an extremely heavy door. I’ve been meaning to get a garage door company to come take a look because I don’t think they have enough spring tension, and that is something I’m NOT willing to mess with DIY. 😆
@@MukYJ Good call on not messing with those spring tension systems. There is a major amount of stored energy in those things ... enough to do serious (potentially fatal) damage. You gotta know what you are doing. Not saying that there aren't safe ways to do it; there clearly are.
Jason, it's been a year since you did this. Please share the changes in comfort and utilities. You can't use $$$ since everything has gone up. I'm looking forward to hearing from you!
I did an update video a long time ago. But it's held up great and I have no complaints.
@@JasonExplainsThings Thanks for the reply. I'm glad to hear that it is still working well!
Great video, u got a sub.
Was there a need to adjust the motor for the garage door opener or is the material lite enough to not be a concern?
Contrary to lots of comments… 😉 it operated as before just fine. But weight can be a concern. That’s why I went with a radiant barrier instead of rigid foam or fiberglass.
How did it handle the recent heat , did it peel off or is it still sticking
Great! No peeling. It’s been up to 113. I’m planning on a follow-up video this month.
How would this product compare to foam board insulation? Thanks for the video!!!
My main concern was weight with foam boards. The springs and opener may have issues. (See all the comments about how the light stuff I installed will explode and cut people in half 😜)
Look at the R value that foam board offers and you can compare.
I was wondering about that roll stuff for insulation on a barn door. Thanks. Keep the faith brother. sub/Likie
Awesome vid and new subscriber. We just bought a house out in rural Texas and found posts from all the neighbors about snakes getting into their garages so my wife is freaking out. Any recommendations for a quality bottom door seal on the garage door?
Sorry, haven’t had to mess with a bottom seal yet. Although that may happen soon for the garage door on my house.
Weatherstripping of some kind? Maybe automotive or something of the sort?
How about using this for the attic?
I do actually have a radiant barrier in the attic as well. :-)
I have torn out many many garage doors where people have tried to install that crap and it was just falling off not only that the doors were unbalanced because of the added weight it's not a good idea great video great idea but you have to adjust or change the springs if you're going to do that just saying you might as well install brand new steel back garage doors
How is the double sided tape holding up?
Great, no peeling at all.
speaks of starwars and directly goes into space balls... lol
May The Schwartz Be With YOU!
Great video! I know it’s a bit late but I hope you find your son! 😂
What is the weather stripping you used???
Bought it at Lowe’s. Comes in 8’ sections.
@@JasonExplainsThings I'll have to check that out. Our trim needs fixed too
super
The doors in this video are wayne dalton 9100 they are fiberglass doors which are crap, the easiest way to install the perimeter seal is a trim nailer instead of a hammer. Also note that adding weight to your door will strain the opener and may need to add spring tension to balance the door properly. Would be best to just get an insulated garage door that has a 1 7/8 thick insulation and the R-value on those are about 9-12 R-value depending on the color.
Update video covers this. I love the criticism of making an existing door a little better for $200 vs paying $3500 on a new door. Makes me roll my eyes pretty hard. ✌️
Dont know where your getting your prices from but an insulated door doesn't cost anywhere close to $3500 lol. Great video by the way, dont get upset from criticism it's how people get better at what they are doing.
Update video covers this. Commentary on springs, cost of new door. Have a good one.
How is this foil material compared to the foam material for insulation?
Waste of money. The garage door is already a radiant barrier (why they are painted white generally). Without an air gap the reflectix it’s virtually useless. Rigid insulation is the way to go against the door. For added protection add the reflextix after. Also, the heat is going to cause the double sided tape to release.
You do you man. It's made a very noticeable difference.
His garage door already had insulation from the manufacturer so the reflectix actually works well as a top layer.
Would you like to come spend Saturday afternoon at my house? Lol
Plus the Wayne Dalton 9100 has high density foam with a better R rating than the barrier your adding... it's not needed
I'm a garage door tech and that weather stripping is terrible we won't even sell it
Just dont let warm moist air behind the reflectix, thats mold disaster waiting to happen.
Central WA is a very dry place so that's not an issue for me. I've seen mold in fiberglass insulation at my house near Seattle back in the day... but haven't heard of that being an issue with reflectix.
I would have done two layers and the door cracks
Two layers wouldn’t do anything. Check the linked documents for instructions if you don’t want to take my word for it.
And for why I didn’t cover the seams you can check out the update video linked in the description.
@@JasonExplainsThings Yeah I woul have gone with a concrete blanket
You had me until you referenced the prequels lol jk nice project
Oh man, if you hate that… you’ll REALLY HATE the ending of the follow up video. 😅
Some thermal imaging of before and after would've been cool
You and others convinced me. Thermal camera ordered. I'm interested to see the results.
@@JasonExplainsThings I'm glad this vid popped up in my recommendations. Will be looking forward to thermal vision video!
@@JasonExplainsThings awesome! Please show it off when you use it. I purchased a Seek thermal camera and it's come in super handy. Keep up the great content!
Back to Low-E made by Environmentally Safe Products in New Oxford pa. There is metal building roof thermal imaging available on the website under their Low-E product (there are other products available for specific applications) done by professional 3rd party
Here's some answers to common questions! Thanks for watching. :-)
#1 HAS THE TAPE HELD UP? Yes, I have not had any peeling at all. And it's the hottest summer ever here. It was 113 degrees a few weeks ago. But use high quality tape and thoroughly clean the doors before applying tape.
#2 WON'T THE INSULATION CAUSE ISSUES WITH THE DOOR OPENING/SPRINGS? No. The radiant barrier is light enough that it doesn't effect the door operation at all. It's also provided some slight soundproofing improvements as well.
#3 THAT THIN CRAP DOES NOTHING! YOU NEED THICK INSULATION! No. That WOULD result in issues with the door opening and closing.
#4 WHAT ARE THE RESULTS?! First, the noticeable soundproofing because of the air pocket between the insulation was apparent immediately. For temperature control it didn't do anything noticeable during the winter, but it's been great in the summer. I don't have any temperature readings (summer weather before/after) because that would require me to take stuff off (installed in January). But the shop doesn't get nearly as hot as it did last summer. This combined with the heat pump I installed has kept the shop comfortable to work, and hang out in all summer.
#5 A NEW GARAGE DOOR WOULD BE BETTER! Yes, of course. But that would cost $2500 or more. This project costs 10% of that.
#6 RADIANT BARRIERS NEED AN AIR GAP! Yes they do. I talk about that at 5:25 and show that I have a 1/2" air gap. This helps with sound and insulation.
But did you win at pod racing?!
I think you'll find that after awhile that 2 - way tape you used dries up and looses its adhesion. That's my experience in using it where I work. Iight have chosen to use a liquid adhesive like a liquid nails type of adhesive.
Thanks for the update. I was debating buying foam boards to install on my doors, however after seeing this product, I’ve changed my mind. I live in Texas and really couldn’t care less about keeping out the cold.
You might want to pin your comment at the top so folks don’t have to scroll through searching for an update 👍
I'm going to go for the double-side adhesive. I figure it'll degrade after a while, but by then I may want to upgrade or repair the insulation. Very nice. Extremely helpful.
Giving you a like for the extra happiness you got after finishing lol
I have used the reflective material over 8-years ago. It has lasted longer than the double sided carpet tape I found to install. It added no weight to the doors and helps on summer heat.
Try Low-E reflective insulation manufactured here in USA by Environmentally Safe Products in New Oxford PA .. has more stable core and is real aluminum not mylar film
Awesome channel! The insulation looks a lot like the stuff you put on your car windshield. May give it a try on my garage/ woodworking area/ home gym
I put purple foamboard insulation in the inside of my garage door, made all the difference R-value 10 as well as outside weather stripping.
ALSO I had Radiant Barrier installed in my attic (painted roof, attic tent for hole and more insulation in attic as well as sealing can lights. Cut my electric bill on 2500 sq ft from $400-$600 to $150-$200).
Nice. My house has a radiant barrier in the attic as well.
You havea link to the foam board you used? Thanks!
Freaking genius!!!
@S G Awesome idea. Can you share the materials?
@@IbelieveinJesusAmen Radiant barrier is painting attic ceiling, adding more insulation, attic stair tent and sealing all can lights and added LED's light bulbs.
This project is on the schedule for this fall. How was the rubber strip along the bottom of the door? I thought you might mention that.
I’m going to replace mine at the same time I do the insulation and top and side weatherstripping because mine is pretty beat.
Instead of going horizontally with radiant barrier.. I went vertical.. this allowed for a large airgap between barrier and door panels. The result was even better.. the air gap allowed for much greater difference between outside temp and inside temp. The air gap is key.
Serious shop envy Jason. Keep us posted on how well this performs in the coming months. Getting a garage/shop designed and built myself at the moment, can't wait to get in & start the fit out 👍
Awesome. It's been slow going but it keeps getting better.
Your good nature comes through. Love practical people who 'give it a go'. Thank you.
I'd put Velcro on the top and bottom to go over those hinges, that way you can take the insulation off and put it back on if need be
Here’s a tip. Use gorilla double sided tape. It’s never going to be an adhesive issue.
if you have left over radiant barrier you could cut a thicker piece for the seams, so it can flex as the door opens, kind of like those Large 2 part city buses. Might not matter in the end but it might help with Temps.
I was thinking that too. There has to be some sort of solution.
Looks great man! I feel like that'll really help in the summer.
Yeah me too... more benefit in the summer than the winter.
@@JasonExplainsThings Have you seen/felt any improvement? Done any temperature tests? I'm in Houston and have been looking into doing this for my garage, but wasn't sure if the radiant barrier would help, especially if the heat would just flow up the air gap and back into the garage.
Looking back, I see there's no air gap (so not sure it's a "radiant" barrier), but still curious if it works :)
@@willyshoo There's a one inch air gap. I show it at 5:26.
Fantastic production quality!
Woah! Thanks Ben. I binged a bunch of your GoPro videos a while back. Yeah I try to push quality on everything I put out. Views are all over the place, but I love doing this just the same.
@@JasonExplainsThings - Haha that's awesome, thanks man!
After a few years it will be nice to know if the double sided tape holds up to the heat and cool and does not become detached.
Thinking the same thing
If it does, one could use 3M's VHB tape. (Very High Bond)
You have WD Foamcore/Thermocore doors which are the worst doors on the market by miles. This means you have plastic rollers and the worst of everything door related. Buying new doors makes far more sense for a 100 different reasons. The band aid you are teaching here is a poor choice as those doors are not worth investing a penny in if you are planning on having a heated space.
I’d add you are also changing the weight on already super light doors which affects the torsion springs where they will break sooner and it will also add weight to the lift master openers which can affect the plastic gear in the operator. Not a huge concern but just pointing out this is a bad idea on many levels. Just as your weatherstripping advice was. As someone who installs it daily on new installs in many different environments last 20 years, you were using the wrong tools( you don’t use a razor blade) and you certainly don’t notch it.
You are setting people up for failure and to possibly get extremely hurt if they were to take the bottom fixture off watching you take the top fixture off and not knowing the difference. One does very little, the other will tear 1/2 your face off.
Lastly, you don’t go to Home Depot for garage doors. That’s how you got the junk doors you have now. You go to a garage door professional where you can get high quality doors R-12 to R-18 for well under $1000 installed unless you get windows where the price will escalate. Call around and get quotes. You will find the pricing is all over the place.
Last thought as well…. You are not putting any barrier on the actual place where the door loses most the heat which is between the sections. This fix will fix nothing.
Hello Mr. Know it all. Let me know when you roll out a video so we can all learn the right way.
Btw, I've done similar thing to my garage door and it worked great and made a huge difference.
It is really not that serious, Jonathan.
@@CapturedYou of course it’s not… that is until someone takes the screws out of the bottom fixture and ends up in the emergency room. Installing garage doors the last 20 years has shown me just how often this happens. In a company with around 30 installers, at least 1/2 of the guys have had at least one trip to the emergency room. And I know of 2 people who were clueless enough to take the bottom fixture off while it was under tension and one of those 2 guys lost 1/2 his face.
@@derfskittlers6125 not a know it all, simply a garage door expert with over 20 yrs experience installing new doors as well as repairing old doors/operators. Sorry industry professionals bother you so much. I’m betting you would choose an actual experienced surgeon if you needed surgery rather than a random guy who knows how to record a video on his iPhone. Though with your incredible logic and reason I could be wrong.
Did you take temperature readings before and after installation of the insulation? That’s better to know than a few pennies saved on the electric bill.