I used the thick Velcro from 3M. Placed strips along each resting part of the wheel contoured to the inside of the track. When the wheels come in contact with the Velcro it basically does the same thing as the thermo track grooves at a fraction of the price. Three years and still working like a charm!!!!
Making sure I understand this, because it sounds like a great idea. Did you just put a few inches of the fuzzy (or either) velcro part inside the track on the interior garage side at the locations the wheels will be when the door is closed? Making the wheels be pushed to the outside side of the track when closed? If so, any issues during opening/closing when the wheels go by this tighter area?
@@ekbuz that is correct, get the hard one not the fuzzy Velcro. It will take approximately a couple of weeks for it to break in but zero issues after the fact. Door locks solidly against door frame resting plush against it.
@@hankwest5662 Do research for 3M Dual Lock reclosable fasteners. They are very rigid . Keep in mind that this is just to close a small gap and butt the door against the frame.
@@carlossantiago9318yea then might as well just bond in some strips of your choice of polymer. Dual lock is expensive and not just lying around the house. Not knocking the stuff it’s insanely awesome and we make aircraft designs with tiny segments of that stuff to hold 100lb panels and only a screw or two (I have at least 10 feet lying around personally).
I think an easier solution is to replace the OEM garage door hinges with Green Hinges. These are spring loaded hinges that press garage doors to the frame seal and gives resistance to wind. That what I did for my heated shop and it didn't take long to do. I used to see daylight on my garage door edges when closed, even with weather striping. Now I don't. I found these after searching on ways to seal garage doors and it did the trick.
Honestly I think the track OR the hinges would be equally easy. I would prefer the tracks so I don't risk stripping out the hinge holes on the super cheapy garage door metal these days. I've seen both products, the hinges do work just as well as the tracks.
You may want to try using Garage Door Brush Seals, which should be much more effective in stopping the transfer of air and light. The brush seals should have a lot longer life. Most professional garages and commercial warehouses use them too.
10:58 I have 24 years in the garage door industry, and I see two problems here. Well, one problem and one over engineering solution. If you add insulation and don't rebalance the springs, you are going to wear out your operator and possibly your top section. Second, door stop installed correctly won't allow wind or light in around the door. Those tracks are a gimmick, in my opinion, but the springs not being torqued to the weight of the door is a fact. Those tracks are basically sealing like an outdated wood door from 60 years ago. It also looks like you replaced a heavier gauge track with very flimsy tracks. If you want the best insulation, you should get a door with polyurethane insulation and a thermal break so the outside metal doesn't touch the inside metal and stops all heat transfer. 9:51
I have worked on garage doors before. The bent rails look like a problem creator to me. Clearances change with the weather, that's why they put weather strips on doors. Those things look like they'll cut you door openers life in half.
I just had a garage torsion spring explode and watched your DIY replacement video. I was all set to do it but I called my local garage pro and they will replace both springs with upgraded 35,000 cycle springs for $350. The springs themselves would cost me $200 so I'm going to do the rare thing and actually pay someone to do work at my house. 😂😂 I really appreciate the videos though.
@@alecepting1371 nope. If you are winding up the spring, and it breaks, nobody is dieing. The spring is around a bar and that bar stops the spring from flying away. It's 'captive'. I just converted my single spring to a double spring setup, and it was so easy. The single spring was good for 4 or 5 years and around 12000 cycles. I upgraded to 2 springs with a 50,000 cycle life. Easy as pie to do yourself. If you go to a double spring setup, when you go to wind them up, it's twice as easy, as 1 single heavy duty spring.
@@alecepting1371 Only real thing I'm not particularly excited to do in my house is any work on the live side of my electrical panel. I leave that stuff to Sparky. I'm just not going to tackle this job because it seems like it's probably going to take me at least a couple of hours and that's worth $150 to me. So the main driver here is laziness, not fear. 🤣
Wow, what an incredible invention. The Thermal Tracks does exactly what a properly adjusted Garage door track does, but for More Money ! See those Brackets that hold your Door Tracks in place? Yep, they are Slotted for a reason. Once the door is installed you Snug the tracks up using those Slots so your door touches all the way down the TRIM that is installed at the door edge. BAM, no air leak.
I can see one advantage of this system, and he alludes to it an the beginning of the video. If the door track is adjusted to press the door against the seal, then it is going to rub more on the way up and down, every time you open it. This seems like a bit of a benefit, because you can snug it up a little tighter and you will only be actually making contact when it is fully closed. My door is adjusted properly, as close as can be without rubbing, so when it is fully closed, it could stand to be a little bit more snug against the seal. That being said, the right kind of seal with the right springiness and that can withstand some rubbing would probably be a simpler solution.
@@ddd42809 that is the very reason the track is not installed plumb with the wall, its spaqced out more at the top so the door seals on the closed position. this guys door was way out of adjustment.
Have you also looked at the Green Hinge System to replace the hinges with rollers? They are spring-loaded to help press the door and keep it sealed if strong winds try to press it inwards. While installing my Green Hinge Systems hinges, I replaced the roller wheels with ones with better nylon wheels and bearings, along added some plastic sleeves to reduce the sounds and smooth the door track rolling.
I installed green hinges on my 16’ steel insulated door back in 2015 (had to look that up!) and they made a big difference in helping to keep the door pushed against the track, specially when the wind blows against the door. Now, even a strong will wind will push the door inward, but it quickly snaps back. So, nine years in use and they still work.
Neat! We replaced our own garage doors and did something similar to this. It really is a big help to keep temps under control especially in winter up in New England.
I am not a sponsor but an owner who had similar issues with heat loss from the sides and top of the my insulated garage door. I bought these, easy to install and love them. Garage Door Hinge Set for Commercial 4 Panel Overhead Door | HeavyDuty Spring Loaded, Self Sealing Energy Saving Hinges
We live about 50 miles south of Chicago and I'm not sure were you live, perhaps Utah, but when you went out to show the outside gap, that view was beautiful. We are in our 50's and looking at the Rocky mountain states for a home however until my wife retires, we are stuck here in Illinois and I need to address this with my garage door as the weather is turning so thanks.
Nice work. I think there is a tradeoff to be considered for people with respect to how much time they spend in their garage. Since I don't spend a large amount of time most days, a $700 mini split made a lot more sense than perfectly sealing the door with the tracks. (I still improved what I had.) It's sized large enough to quickly make the space comfortable to work in during the most extreme temperatures here, providing a better cost to performance ratio since I don't need to run it constantly.
I installed the thermo tracks myself. Afterwards I realized that if the tracks had been properly adjusted you really don't need the bend. My doors are from the 80s and are wood. 1 1/2" Insulation and I used aluminized bubble wrap on the interior. This knocked the radiante sun energy down significantly these past two summers.
I really appreciate how you say the tools and put the text on screen. The biggest thing about tools is not knowing how to even search for the tools you want
I installed the ThermoTraks in my garage 2 years ago, took a little fiddling wit the weather seals they supply but once you figure it out they work very well. Probably the best setup would be in a new garage door installation but I was able to retrofit them into my existing track and make them work.
NW Montana here, basically have done the steps you have done, but I think the ThermoTraks will be next. Nice comprehensive video. I use my 2-car 28x30 garage for a machine shop and keep it cooled in the summer and natural gas heated all winter, so VERY important to keep outside outside.
You need to get a professional to adjust the spring on the garage door after you add the insulation. Even though the insulation panels are light, between them, the tape, and the paint it's enough to throw the torsion off on the spring above the door, putting an extra load on the electric motor. I did the same kind of insulation about 5 years ago without rebalancing the garage door and the motor gave out. Also, you need to check the fire code out in your area. The insulation you used is highly flammable. It's meant to be used behind sheet rock which acts a a fire barrier. Of course, you can't mount sheet rock to your garage door, but if you go to sell the house, it might not pass inspection. You could cover it with flashing, but that adds more weight to the door and might end up costing you more than just buying and insulated door.
Great points. I probably should have mentioned in the video that I did replace my springs after insulating the door due to the added weight, and made a video showing how.
So, while putting this up, how do you not think “hmmm jam seals will close all those gaps I see” instead of removing perfectly working tracks in favor of a gimmick? Trying to slide two rigid panels against each other, I guarantee will wear out faster than a simple rubber jam seal up the sides and across the top.
I got some estimates to replace my wood garage door with a modern insulted door. At $7000 .....😱 I insulated and weatherstripped it myself, thank you. The results were fantastic! And yes, about $200. Contractors seem to be in a race to see who can charge the most, so doing your own work is the way to go.
Whilst there's always some out there trying to rip people off, truth is suppliers keep jacking up their prices. There was like a 30% hike back in spring.
For those considering using Formular NGX (or similar rigid foam panels), check your local building codes first. It's a flammable insulation and in many jurisdictions, it's not allowed to be used as finished surface inside a building unless it's covered with a fire retardant finish (typically drywall.)
“There’s a mouthful for you…” is exactly what I tell me ol’ lady! 😉 When we had our home built (6 car garage, with dedicated RV and a boat bays), I told the GC to include climate/humidity/air purification control systems. Our garage remains a comfortable 74°F year around.
They make garage weather seal for a reason and I noticed you don’t have any of that on your garage door and it doesn’t cost $300. This video is an expensive solution to a problem that can be fixed for about 50 bucks.
Most of this could have been accomplished by properly adjusting the vertical tracks to tight up the door to the opening. The track should not be vertical. It is inclined, so the door essentially wedges into place.
NEVER do this. It destroys doors and weatherseal. Door should never touch the frame. ever. This is easily the #1 service I have to do is pull track back so door can actually run up and down properly and not rip itself and components apart. Properly installed doors will sit about 1/4" from the frame in spots and have that amount of free movement. What makes the seal solid is the opener and top hinges. They will "set" the door with it's down force and the roller jamming into the radius. You then set the weatherstrip to that to make a good, but not excessive seal.
for those of us who have regular springs on both sides of your garage door beware of the cable that runs down the track. if you remove your old track with that cable when the door is closed that spring could cause injury because its under spring pressure.
Great info and video. You can seal up that last bit of gap along the top with 1in foam weather stripping. It will sit above the top of the frame so you'll never see it.
FYI. I noticed you use an emergency detach cord for your garage door. This provides an easy way for burglars to enter your garage via drilling a hole, or fishing a coat hanger through the top of the door, grabbing the cord and detaching your door from the opening motor. Making it easy to lift up and enter. Just a thought.
I moved into this house 25 years ago and one of the first things I did was have a different garage door installed. It is an insulated door with steel cladding on both sides. It helps keep the garage temperature from reaching the extreme temperatures that are outside. However I tend to wish I had an uninsulated door because of the weight. It is a wide door for a two car garage and weighs a lot. Twice I've had to get new springs installed because they break. If one of these springs break, the door is dangerous, because it will slam shut if the release rope is pulled. I did this once and thankfully my foot wasn't in the path of the door. For single car garage doors the insulated door should be ok.
Great video. I liked how you addressed all possibilities. I myself would have installed the new rollers before making any adjustments though. The old ones could have been worn down and installing new could make it too tight.
I've seen people add the weather seal on the inside to sandwich the garage door between the seals. Seemed really effective for the cost on an old setup to get by until it can be redone properly.
I just got weather strips with pvc Moulding and large rubber flap it seals it up pretty well garage had old wood door put in new insulated door, and it is warmer in garage in cold and cooler in summer made a big difference
Nils, thank you for this video, I want to insulate all 3 doors on my shop. I already have the minisplit so I'm going to insulate this September when it is cooler in SC. The hottest state on earth. Gtrat job my friend!
The insulation plus the Thermo Tracks are great ideas for those running a window AC in their garage to keep cool in the south. You could have used a 1/16" thick piece of plastic like UHMW-PE strip to set a consistent gap all around the garage door.
I have an old style garage door without struts or channels. I figured out to cut some hard foam around 40-45 degrees where the panels meet. I would go with the lower end. They may rub or break so maybe make some small reliefs breaking cut lines and work through it manually. I used some sealing tape the for the angles without an issue. Just fyi. By the way, depending the day, I got 3-4 degrees from an insulated walled garage without HVAC yet. But the wall insulation made about 5-8 degrees difference.
I put in the Green Hinge system last year and have noticed a huge difference. Seems like a slightly easier install than the thermo tracks, and I believe it was cheaper too. (Total cost for both my 2-car garage door and my 1-car garage door was $280). I also put in the semi-rigid insulating strips on the outside (the ones with a faux-wood plastic edge and an attached rubber seal) and I like how they were very easy to keep straight while installing. (Unfortunately the color has faded from UV exposure quite a bit and they've turned from brown to having a slightly green hue to them. But the insulation they offer is still worth it, and I believe they can be painted as well.)
My SO put some of those bends in the door track by running into the door before it had opened all the way, and it now helps keep it insulated because the garage door will only lift half way, then instantly shuts itself again. Luckily, we got the car out before realizing this, so at least the car isn't permanently trapped in the garage, just outside of it. Bonus, I now get to use the garage as a workspace, since the large door to the driveway is permanently closed.
Thanks for making this video. I'm not a garage door professional but I think you might want to hit the front of your garage door with a power washer! Saw a lot of bugs! Anyways, look forward to your next video!
You can also use some washers or shims between the top of the door and the stiffener to bow the door outward a little to get a better seal at the top. Or add a deeper stiffener, I added a thin 2" x 4" steel angle across the top of my 16' wide x 14' high door to keep the wind from pushing open a gap and rattling when its gusty.
The wall track usually is adjustable but if not the weather stripping on the outside is also adjustable so there's no need for buying extra track The trim for the outside is like 2 in which gives you plenty of adjustment to make up for whatever the door is off
Top right corner? Her right or your right? I bought the insulated door as it had an increased wind rating. I did the insulation and the mini-split, heaven on earth. Only part I don't have are the pinch rails. Your DIY insulation on the door looks good, nice job.
Looks like you have extra head room above the door. I would recommend a third video/upgrade. A high reach track upgrade. Comes with a wider sweep with more gain. And a fourth video: Get a side mount/jackshaft opener. 🎉😊❤
Only things missing are outer sealing hinges like green hinges, 14ga / heavy duty inner hinges, nylon sleeves for the roller shafts, and foam / cut pool noodle behind the hinge point on the inners and behind the roller on the outers to eliminate rattle.
Make sure you clamp the vice grips in the track if you are wanting to hold the door open. The 3D animation shows the correct way to clamp in the track. At 8:50 he shows clamping around the track. I think the door could still close if clamped this way (and you could flatten the track a little and cause yourself another problem in the future.
Interesting. My house was built in 1985 with an addition in 1987, which included the garage. As far as I know, these are the original doors, tracks, and etc. There are weather seals all the way around, and the doors themselves are insulated doors. I don't know if there's insulation in the exterior walls, I've not bothered to really check into it. Also don't know if there's insulation in the roof, as there's no access panel on this end of the house (need to cut one to run some wiring anyway, maybe this fall). I have a small AC unit in the garage that will keep it around 72F even with it's 95F outside. There is a massive air leak under the back door. The concrete was either poured with a depression there, or years of use has worn it down. I guess I should fix that :)
I've installed the insulating panels on my garage door. It has sealing strips all around, so no light gaps. The garage walls are all insulated, and its ceiling sits beneath the floor of the master bedroom, so it never gets hot. Summer days here in the desert typically exceed 110F degrees, but the garage rarely reaches 100, as long as the rollup and side doors remain closed. HOWEVER, after driving a hot car with exterior surfaces above 110 and an engine bay well above 200 into it, the garage heats up quickly and all of the insulation acts to hold the heat in. :( I have a couple portable A/C units that I can run to pull it back down to around 100, if I really need to work out there in the heat, but the arrangement really is very much like a reverse Igloo cooler otherwise, holding the superheated air inside.
I know the insulation isn’t heavy but extra weight could throw the garage door off balance and put extra strain on the garage door opener. Previous owners insulated the garage door, and two years after moving in my garage door opener went out. In the process of replacing it, discovered that it was way out of balance. Could have been poor installation or combination of extra insulation weight…. But like the video and all the benefits of insulation. Spot on.
I see the idea behind the tracks, but they just look like a bit of a gimmick to me. The regular tracks, as the door moves up, pull the door away from the building. These new tracks just pull it away a bit further. Seems like the seals were all you needed here.
Another benefit of sealing the garage door is keeping critters out. Once caught a baby rattle snake trying to get into the garage through the gap left by the older worn seal. Replacing the seals, left, right and top for both doors took care of it. The track system is interesting but too costly for me.
If you take a 1/4" thick felt used on doors and staple that onto the lumber between the door its going to kill the rest of the light leaking In this insulation is sold in rolls and used on door jambs the peel and stick foam will rub apart the felt holds up better, if you can't find it then trunk liner carpet is about 1/8" thick but it would take up the gap better then nothing. I did not know about the bent track Yes the nylon rollers make the door whisper quite my
Nice work with the foam board, when adding weight to the door you will need to adjust the lift springs to balance the work load of the electric opener. Adjusting with those springs should only be done by a garage door contractor/installer (Safety First) Save the track that was removed. You will need them when these flimsy twisted track fail. The building contractor left out an important part of the door install. The door seal system was not installed. This system is a ridged trim board with a substantial flexible rubber seal that contacts the door when it's closed. You can buy them from the door contractor. and they will match the color of the house/door
FYI, in some states if you insulate your garage it's considered adding a room / liveable space to your house. Could actually increase home value and property taxes.
I live in Utah and we have been using our three car garage bays as storage areas. To solve it I'm building a separate 35x40 garage/shop with an 18' wide door. I think 16' wide garage doors are criminal, IMO. Fortunately we bought a large enough lot years ago that this is feasible.
The Nylon Wheels are amazing. Mine are sealed and don't get all mucked up. On my door I used spacers, to emulate your adjustable top roller. Each Roller Hinge is set to snug the door against the Weather Stripping. I have Steel Track for my huge heavy door. So I'm not messing with that. Now it glides into place, especially with the Nylon Rollers, smoothly and amazingly silent. It's kinda creepy seeing this large door raise, lower and seal itself into place silently.
Well explained all around but in my garage door is insolated n sealed outside insolated walls no air movement but gets to 95 degrees F in summer n close to 32 F in winter. It is separate from my house. Thoughts suggestions 🤔
I would caulk along the edge of your weather stripping with a clear paintable caulk. Most of them are white and dry clear. A lot of air is passing between the weather stripping and wall.
Note that garages with a gas water heater or furnace or storing gas-powered cars, mowers, etc are supposed to have at least 1/150 sq ft ventilation, split high and low. Wuth 'modern' tightly sealed garages, there have been a lot of issues with toxic and explosive fume build-up and inadequate combustion air for the appliances. A large vent fan that monitors for gas fumes, carbon monoxide build up, low oxygen levels, etc. is what is used in the basement levels of commercial garages.
I would think that building spaces should be subdivided into those that are climate-controlled and those that are ventilated with outside air. If a garage or storage building which is opened and resealed when outside air is warm and ABSOLUTE humidity is moderately high, and the space is then cooled down, the moisture in air within that space space isn't going to be able to remain as water vapor within that space. It is going to either have to condense within that space or go somewhere else.
I found that putting a little caulk in the door seal (inside cavity) makes a big difference. If you're not using thethermo trak, it'll make a big difference.
@@hansangb dude! Great idea! Use a small bead of 100% clear silicone on one side of the joint, then wait overnight for it to cure. Then move to the next joint! Brilliant!
Garage door pro here also. I saw his previous video and he did change out the springs. The thermotrack is a waste of money. If you want the door to seal better than adjust the jamb brackets. Also buying weather trim from a pro has a much better look and the same sealing ability. Usually not accessible to public since the trim comes in 16ft+ strips for the width of the door. Anyway, you probably could have saved a ton of time and money by having a pro come take a look and mounting trim.
Good idea, except in my California county the garage requires a large outside vent in the wall. Might only be if a gas water heater. Regardless, rarely gets below freezing.
This is a great video however, I would have loved to see you do the garage seals on the outside first before you installed the tracks since they are a much more expensive option upfront
This is a dumb question... but are you in Saratoga Springs? I lived in Provo for a while, and seeing those mountains at 9:30 makes me miss the people there, how the mountains would light up red in the evening, the snow on Mt. Timp, so so much to love about that area of Utah. (Definitely don't respond if you have any risk of stalkers)
By the time you add all the weight with insulation foam you now need new springs and with tracks time and everything else you can have a insulated steel back door with vinyl and all for less time and same money
8:43 You should unplug the power cord of the garage door, but don't actually pull the string. Now the ONLY thing keeping that garage door up there is dust in the tracks and the vicegrips. Keep it connected to the track, but unplug the motor, and it'll be a lot safer.
I have yet to find something on Amazon with an "I just dragged my elbow across the keyboard" brand name that isn't low-quality garbage. I bought that same outdoor gasket you used and it has turned yellow and become brittle after only 1 year.
If there are gaps with traditional door tracks I don’t think it’s installed properly. Plus, I live in Florida, unless you’re putting air conditioning in your garage it’s going to be hot regardless.
Sealing the top is also very important security wise, that gap you had was large enough to push a drop weight through to hook into your pullcord. Once that's disconnected you can lift the door if its not locked down via the rail.
Thank you for the helpful video but I was wondering if you have any recommendations for an upgraded seal strip at the bottom of the garage door. The day after I had my door installed critters chewed through the rubber seal. Is there something that can hold up to rodents chewing on it?? Thank you for the info.
Reducing the garage door surface temp only has a minimal effect on the room temp of the garage.When we insulated mine we lowered the surface temp 30 degrees and the room temp only dropped 3 degrees.Every little bit helps but it wont be a replacement for air conditioning.
If that door started moving are you sure the vice grips will hold it up? Or are you just adding a flying vice grip to your list of problems? I would think they would hold it up if it had no momentum behind it, but... then you'd want to put the vice grips right up against where the door is sitting, but you put it down a bit. Maybe not enough to let it get much energy built up, but..... I'd have either not used them at all or put it right up against the bottom roller.
Building code requires a fire resistant barrier on top of that foam paneling because it is highly flammable. Try installing something like frp on top of those panels.
It definitely did. In the insulation video I talked about needing to keep a close eye on that. I replaced my 10 year old springs for ones that were rated for the additional weight. I have a video about that too :)
Thanks for putting this video together! I'm not seeing the link for the nylon rollers in the description, would you mind updating or responding with a link. Thanks again!
Cautionary word for newer model garage door opener owners. I could be wrong, but I am told new garage door openers are very efficient, and there is very little tolerance for the weight of the door/ tension in the spring.
If insulation is retro fitted to garage door, make sure the spring tension is adjusted, otherwise the extra weight will cause the garage door opener to fail sooner than expected
Nice to see a DIY channel that features projects that are actually doable.
Exaggerating much!! 😂
You're telling me you can't use galvanized square steel and screws borrowed from your aunt to DIY a skyscraper??
I used the thick Velcro from 3M. Placed strips along each resting part of the wheel contoured to the inside of the track. When the wheels come in contact with the Velcro it basically does the same thing as the thermo track grooves at a fraction of the price. Three years and still working like a charm!!!!
Making sure I understand this, because it sounds like a great idea. Did you just put a few inches of the fuzzy (or either) velcro part inside the track on the interior garage side at the locations the wheels will be when the door is closed? Making the wheels be pushed to the outside side of the track when closed? If so, any issues during opening/closing when the wheels go by this tighter area?
@@ekbuz that is correct, get the hard one not the fuzzy Velcro. It will take approximately a couple of weeks for it to break in but zero issues after the fact. Door locks solidly against door frame resting plush against it.
What's the thickness of the Velcro you used? It must be really thick to push the door to close the seal?
@@hankwest5662 Do research for 3M Dual Lock reclosable fasteners. They are very rigid . Keep in mind that this is just to close a small gap and butt the door against the frame.
@@carlossantiago9318yea then might as well just bond in some strips of your choice of polymer. Dual lock is expensive and not just lying around the house. Not knocking the stuff it’s insanely awesome and we make aircraft designs with tiny segments of that stuff to hold 100lb panels and only a screw or two (I have at least 10 feet lying around personally).
Top seal should sit behind the side seals; helps push them out of the way when the door comes down.
She looks thrilled to be helping you. What a sport!
I think an easier solution is to replace the OEM garage door hinges with Green Hinges. These are spring loaded hinges that press garage doors to the frame seal and gives resistance to wind. That what I did for my heated shop and it didn't take long to do. I used to see daylight on my garage door edges when closed, even with weather striping. Now I don't. I found these after searching on ways to seal garage doors and it did the trick.
Honestly I think the track OR the hinges would be equally easy. I would prefer the tracks so I don't risk stripping out the hinge holes on the super cheapy garage door metal these days.
I've seen both products, the hinges do work just as well as the tracks.
@@SnowRaver-p2v I had no issues on my higher end Clopay steel doors but I see your point.
You may want to try using Garage Door Brush Seals, which should be much more effective in stopping the transfer of air and light. The brush seals should have a lot longer life. Most professional garages and commercial warehouses use them too.
10:58 I have 24 years in the garage door industry, and I see two problems here. Well, one problem and one over engineering solution. If you add insulation and don't rebalance the springs, you are going to wear out your operator and possibly your top section. Second, door stop installed correctly won't allow wind or light in around the door. Those tracks are a gimmick, in my opinion, but the springs not being torqued to the weight of the door is a fact. Those tracks are basically sealing like an outdated wood door from 60 years ago. It also looks like you replaced a heavier gauge track with very flimsy tracks. If you want the best insulation, you should get a door with polyurethane insulation and a thermal break so the outside metal doesn't touch the inside metal and stops all heat transfer. 9:51
In the video he did for the insulation installation, he does mention to have the tension readjusted. Even recommended to have a pro do it.
Good points, not to mention that these exterior door stops he chose look horrendous. All those screw caps are a sin.
you are right! gimmick crap... probably designed by someone who has never worked on a door in their life.
I have worked on garage doors before. The bent rails look like a problem creator to me. Clearances change with the weather, that's why they put weather strips on doors. Those things look like they'll cut you door openers life in half.
@@RichardQuaid we shall see waiting for the results
I just had a garage torsion spring explode and watched your DIY replacement video. I was all set to do it but I called my local garage pro and they will replace both springs with upgraded 35,000 cycle springs for $350. The springs themselves would cost me $200 so I'm going to do the rare thing and actually pay someone to do work at my house. 😂😂
I really appreciate the videos though.
Good call. Springs are terrifying.
Do not try to adjust the torsion springs yourself. If they explode, you could die.
wish i coulda gotten that price. did it myself recently. pretty damn easy tbh.
@@alecepting1371 nope. If you are winding up the spring, and it breaks, nobody is dieing. The spring is around a bar and that bar stops the spring from flying away. It's 'captive'. I just converted my single spring to a double spring setup, and it was so easy. The single spring was good for 4 or 5 years and around 12000 cycles. I upgraded to 2 springs with a 50,000 cycle life. Easy as pie to do yourself. If you go to a double spring setup, when you go to wind them up, it's twice as easy, as 1 single heavy duty spring.
@@alecepting1371 Only real thing I'm not particularly excited to do in my house is any work on the live side of my electrical panel. I leave that stuff to Sparky.
I'm just not going to tackle this job because it seems like it's probably going to take me at least a couple of hours and that's worth $150 to me. So the main driver here is laziness, not fear. 🤣
Wow, what an incredible invention. The Thermal Tracks does exactly what a properly adjusted Garage door track does, but for More Money ! See those Brackets that hold your Door Tracks in place? Yep, they are Slotted for a reason. Once the door is installed you Snug the tracks up using those Slots so your door touches all the way down the TRIM that is installed at the door edge. BAM, no air leak.
I can see one advantage of this system, and he alludes to it an the beginning of the video. If the door track is adjusted to press the door against the seal, then it is going to rub more on the way up and down, every time you open it. This seems like a bit of a benefit, because you can snug it up a little tighter and you will only be actually making contact when it is fully closed. My door is adjusted properly, as close as can be without rubbing, so when it is fully closed, it could stand to be a little bit more snug against the seal.
That being said, the right kind of seal with the right springiness and that can withstand some rubbing would probably be a simpler solution.
@@ddd42809 that is the very reason the track is not installed plumb with the wall, its spaqced out more at the top so the door seals on the closed position. this guys door was way out of adjustment.
Or he could just have some weather seal properly installed.
Have you also looked at the Green Hinge System to replace the hinges with rollers? They are spring-loaded to help press the door and keep it sealed if strong winds try to press it inwards. While installing my Green Hinge Systems hinges, I replaced the roller wheels with ones with better nylon wheels and bearings, along added some plastic sleeves to reduce the sounds and smooth the door track rolling.
I was looking at these as well. How do you like them?
I like James idea
@@Freedom1776usai install green hinges on my garage door and it made a lot of difference specially with the noise
I installed green hinges on my 16’ steel insulated door back in 2015 (had to look that up!) and they made a big difference in helping to keep the door pushed against the track, specially when the wind blows against the door. Now, even a strong will wind will push the door inward, but it quickly snaps back. So, nine years in use and they still work.
@@Freedom1776usa I installed the green hinges on my garage door nine years ago and they work great well.
Neat! We replaced our own garage doors and did something similar to this. It really is a big help to keep temps under control especially in winter up in New England.
I am not a sponsor but an owner who had similar issues with heat loss from the sides and top of the my insulated garage door. I bought these, easy to install and love them. Garage Door Hinge Set for Commercial 4 Panel Overhead Door | HeavyDuty Spring Loaded, Self Sealing Energy Saving Hinges
We live about 50 miles south of Chicago and I'm not sure were you live, perhaps Utah, but when you went out to show the outside gap, that view was beautiful. We are in our 50's and looking at the Rocky mountain states for a home however until my wife retires, we are stuck here in Illinois and I need to address this with my garage door as the weather is turning so thanks.
Nice work. I think there is a tradeoff to be considered for people with respect to how much time they spend in their garage. Since I don't spend a large amount of time most days, a $700 mini split made a lot more sense than perfectly sealing the door with the tracks. (I still improved what I had.) It's sized large enough to quickly make the space comfortable to work in during the most extreme temperatures here, providing a better cost to performance ratio since I don't need to run it constantly.
I installed the thermo tracks myself. Afterwards I realized that if the tracks had been properly adjusted you really don't need the bend. My doors are from the 80s and are wood. 1 1/2" Insulation and I used aluminized bubble wrap on the interior. This knocked the radiante sun energy down significantly these past two summers.
I really appreciate how you say the tools and put the text on screen. The biggest thing about tools is not knowing how to even search for the tools you want
I installed the ThermoTraks in my garage 2 years ago, took a little fiddling wit the weather seals they supply but once you figure it out they work very well. Probably the best setup would be in a new garage door installation but I was able to retrofit them into my existing track and make them work.
NW Montana here, basically have done the steps you have done, but I think the ThermoTraks will be next. Nice comprehensive video. I use my 2-car 28x30 garage for a machine shop and keep it cooled in the summer and natural gas heated all winter, so VERY important to keep outside outside.
You need to get a professional to adjust the spring on the garage door after you add the insulation. Even though the insulation panels are light, between them, the tape, and the paint it's enough to throw the torsion off on the spring above the door, putting an extra load on the electric motor. I did the same kind of insulation about 5 years ago without rebalancing the garage door and the motor gave out.
Also, you need to check the fire code out in your area. The insulation you used is highly flammable. It's meant to be used behind sheet rock which acts a a fire barrier. Of course, you can't mount sheet rock to your garage door, but if you go to sell the house, it might not pass inspection. You could cover it with flashing, but that adds more weight to the door and might end up costing you more than just buying and insulated door.
Great points. I probably should have mentioned in the video that I did replace my springs after insulating the door due to the added weight, and made a video showing how.
@@LRN2DIYThanks for responding to the issue but this is critical information that an inexperienced person would have no clue to watch for
So, while putting this up, how do you not think “hmmm jam seals will close all those gaps I see” instead of removing perfectly working tracks in favor of a gimmick?
Trying to slide two rigid panels against each other, I guarantee will wear out faster than a simple rubber jam seal up the sides and across the top.
I got some estimates to replace my wood garage door with a modern insulted door. At $7000 .....😱 I insulated and weatherstripped it myself, thank you.
The results were fantastic! And yes, about $200. Contractors seem to be in a race to see who can charge the most, so doing your own work is the way to go.
Someone tried to rob you for 7k unless you went with something crazy...the door itself out here 16x7 is about 1700...
@@ghostbox2 Oh, I am totally aware of that.
i put in my ow insulted door it was an easy job you only need to remove or put in one panel at a time
Whilst there's always some out there trying to rip people off, truth is suppliers keep jacking up their prices. There was like a 30% hike back in spring.
For those considering using Formular NGX (or similar rigid foam panels), check your local building codes first. It's a flammable insulation and in many jurisdictions, it's not allowed to be used as finished surface inside a building unless it's covered with a fire retardant finish (typically drywall.)
“There’s a mouthful for you…” is exactly what I tell me ol’ lady! 😉
When we had our home built (6 car garage, with dedicated RV and a boat bays), I told the GC to include climate/humidity/air purification control systems. Our garage remains a comfortable 74°F year around.
They make garage weather seal for a reason and I noticed you don’t have any of that on your garage door and it doesn’t cost $300. This video is an expensive solution to a problem that can be fixed for about 50 bucks.
Love the T-shirt. So true!
Are those the Sierra mountains in the background?
What a view you lucky you.
Most of this could have been accomplished by properly adjusting the vertical tracks to tight up the door to the opening. The track should not be vertical. It is inclined, so the door essentially wedges into place.
Also, this causes more resistance every time you open or close the door. Will likely wear out door lift and seal much faster.
I was about to write the same comment. I’m glad someone else noticed how far out of adjustment that door was.
Darn guys just when I thought things could get better
And the rest by having a nicer trim on the outside rather than this sad looking stuff. Would have been far cheaper too.
NEVER do this. It destroys doors and weatherseal. Door should never touch the frame. ever. This is easily the #1 service I have to do is pull track back so door can actually run up and down properly and not rip itself and components apart. Properly installed doors will sit about 1/4" from the frame in spots and have that amount of free movement.
What makes the seal solid is the opener and top hinges. They will "set" the door with it's down force and the roller jamming into the radius. You then set the weatherstrip to that to make a good, but not excessive seal.
for those of us who have regular springs on both sides of your garage door beware of the cable that runs down the track. if you remove your old track with that cable when the door is closed that spring could cause injury because its under spring pressure.
Great info and video. You can seal up that last bit of gap along the top with 1in foam weather stripping. It will sit above the top of the frame so you'll never see it.
FYI. I noticed you use an emergency detach cord for your garage door. This provides an easy way for burglars to enter your garage via drilling a hole, or fishing a coat hanger through the top of the door, grabbing the cord and detaching your door from the opening motor. Making it easy to lift up and enter. Just a thought.
I moved into this house 25 years ago and one of the first things I did was have a different garage door installed. It is an insulated door with steel cladding on both sides. It helps keep the garage temperature from reaching the extreme temperatures that are outside. However I tend to wish I had an uninsulated door because of the weight. It is a wide door for a two car garage and weighs a lot. Twice I've had to get new springs installed because they break. If one of these springs break, the door is dangerous, because it will slam shut if the release rope is pulled. I did this once and thankfully my foot wasn't in the path of the door. For single car garage doors the insulated door should be ok.
Great video. I liked how you addressed all possibilities. I myself would have installed the new rollers before making any adjustments though. The old ones could have been worn down and installing new could make it too tight.
I've seen people add the weather seal on the inside to sandwich the garage door between the seals. Seemed really effective for the cost on an old setup to get by until it can be redone properly.
I just got weather strips with pvc Moulding and large rubber flap it seals it up pretty well garage had old wood door put in new insulated door, and it is warmer in garage in cold and cooler in summer made a big difference
Nils, thank you for this video, I want to insulate all 3 doors on my shop. I already have the minisplit so I'm going to insulate this September when it is cooler in SC. The hottest state on earth. Gtrat job my friend!
The insulation plus the Thermo Tracks are great ideas for those running a window AC in their garage to keep cool in the south. You could have used a 1/16" thick piece of plastic like UHMW-PE strip to set a consistent gap all around the garage door.
I have an old style garage door without struts or channels. I figured out to cut some hard foam around 40-45 degrees where the panels meet. I would go with the lower end. They may rub or break so maybe make some small reliefs breaking cut lines and work through it manually. I used some sealing tape the for the angles without an issue. Just fyi. By the way, depending the day, I got 3-4 degrees from an insulated walled garage without HVAC yet. But the wall insulation made about 5-8 degrees difference.
But I will play with the tracks to see what happens. Thanks for the video
I put in the Green Hinge system last year and have noticed a huge difference. Seems like a slightly easier install than the thermo tracks, and I believe it was cheaper too. (Total cost for both my 2-car garage door and my 1-car garage door was $280). I also put in the semi-rigid insulating strips on the outside (the ones with a faux-wood plastic edge and an attached rubber seal) and I like how they were very easy to keep straight while installing. (Unfortunately the color has faded from UV exposure quite a bit and they've turned from brown to having a slightly green hue to them. But the insulation they offer is still worth it, and I believe they can be painted as well.)
My SO put some of those bends in the door track by running into the door before it had opened all the way, and it now helps keep it insulated because the garage door will only lift half way, then instantly shuts itself again. Luckily, we got the car out before realizing this, so at least the car isn't permanently trapped in the garage, just outside of it. Bonus, I now get to use the garage as a workspace, since the large door to the driveway is permanently closed.
Thanks for making this video. I'm not a garage door professional but I think you might want to hit the front of your garage door with a power washer! Saw a lot of bugs! Anyways, look forward to your next video!
You can also use some washers or shims between the top of the door and the stiffener to bow the door outward a little to get a better seal at the top. Or add a deeper stiffener, I added a thin 2" x 4" steel angle across the top of my 16' wide x 14' high door to keep the wind from pushing open a gap and rattling when its gusty.
The wall track usually is adjustable but if not the weather stripping on the outside is also adjustable so there's no need for buying extra track The trim for the outside is like 2 in which gives you plenty of adjustment to make up for whatever the door is off
Top right corner? Her right or your right? I bought the insulated door as it had an increased wind rating. I did the insulation and the mini-split, heaven on earth. Only part I don't have are the pinch rails. Your DIY insulation on the door looks good, nice job.
Looks like you have extra head room above the door. I would recommend a third video/upgrade. A high reach track upgrade. Comes with a wider sweep with more gain. And a fourth video: Get a side mount/jackshaft opener. 🎉😊❤
Great and very helpful video. I just started on my garage build and we do get up to -40c in winters.
Only things missing are outer sealing hinges like green hinges, 14ga / heavy duty inner hinges, nylon sleeves for the roller shafts, and foam / cut pool noodle behind the hinge point on the inners and behind the roller on the outers to eliminate rattle.
I installed Thermotraks 2 years ago and they work great. Also, very easy to install.
Wasps and hornets is my problem now I can keep them out. Thanks.
Make sure you clamp the vice grips in the track if you are wanting to hold the door open. The 3D animation shows the correct way to clamp in the track. At 8:50 he shows clamping around the track. I think the door could still close if clamped this way (and you could flatten the track a little and cause yourself another problem in the future.
Interesting. My house was built in 1985 with an addition in 1987, which included the garage. As far as I know, these are the original doors, tracks, and etc. There are weather seals all the way around, and the doors themselves are insulated doors. I don't know if there's insulation in the exterior walls, I've not bothered to really check into it. Also don't know if there's insulation in the roof, as there's no access panel on this end of the house (need to cut one to run some wiring anyway, maybe this fall). I have a small AC unit in the garage that will keep it around 72F even with it's 95F outside. There is a massive air leak under the back door. The concrete was either poured with a depression there, or years of use has worn it down. I guess I should fix that :)
I've installed the insulating panels on my garage door. It has sealing strips all around, so no light gaps. The garage walls are all insulated, and its ceiling sits beneath the floor of the master bedroom, so it never gets hot.
Summer days here in the desert typically exceed 110F degrees, but the garage rarely reaches 100, as long as the rollup and side doors remain closed. HOWEVER, after driving a hot car with exterior surfaces above 110 and an engine bay well above 200 into it, the garage heats up quickly and all of the insulation acts to hold the heat in. :(
I have a couple portable A/C units that I can run to pull it back down to around 100, if I really need to work out there in the heat, but the arrangement really is very much like a reverse Igloo cooler otherwise, holding the superheated air inside.
It will also help keep the garage cooler in the summer, especially if you have it air conditioned, which I recommend.
I know the insulation isn’t heavy but extra weight could throw the garage door off balance and put extra strain on the garage door opener. Previous owners insulated the garage door, and two years after moving in my garage door opener went out. In the process of replacing it, discovered that it was way out of balance. Could have been poor installation or combination of extra insulation weight…. But like the video and all the benefits of insulation. Spot on.
I see the idea behind the tracks, but they just look like a bit of a gimmick to me. The regular tracks, as the door moves up, pull the door away from the building. These new tracks just pull it away a bit further. Seems like the seals were all you needed here.
Another benefit of sealing the garage door is keeping critters out. Once caught a baby rattle snake trying to get into the garage through the gap left by the older worn seal. Replacing the seals, left, right and top for both doors took care of it. The track system is interesting but too costly for me.
good stuff man. did my torsion springs and now i'll prob do this. you make good content.
If you take a 1/4" thick felt used on doors and staple that onto the lumber between the door its going to kill the rest of the light leaking
In this insulation is sold in rolls and used on door jambs the peel and stick foam will rub apart the felt holds up better, if you can't find it then trunk liner carpet is about 1/8" thick but it would take up the gap better then nothing.
I did not know about the bent track
Yes the nylon rollers make the door whisper quite my
Nice work with the foam board, when adding weight to the door you will need to adjust the lift springs to balance the work load of the electric opener. Adjusting with those springs should only be done by a garage door contractor/installer (Safety First) Save the track that was removed. You will need them when these flimsy twisted track fail. The building contractor left out an important part of the door install. The door seal system was not installed. This system is a ridged trim board with a substantial flexible rubber seal that contacts the door when it's closed. You can buy them from the door contractor. and they will match the color of the house/door
FYI, in some states if you insulate your garage it's considered adding a room / liveable space to your house. Could actually increase home value and property taxes.
only if you tell the city and rat yourself out LOL
I live in Utah and we have been using our three car garage bays as storage areas. To solve it I'm building a separate 35x40 garage/shop with an 18' wide door. I think 16' wide garage doors are criminal, IMO. Fortunately we bought a large enough lot years ago that this is feasible.
The Nylon Wheels are amazing. Mine are sealed and don't get all mucked up.
On my door I used spacers, to emulate your adjustable top roller. Each Roller Hinge is set to snug the door against the Weather Stripping. I have Steel Track for my huge heavy door. So I'm not messing with that. Now it glides into place, especially with the Nylon Rollers, smoothly and amazingly silent. It's kinda creepy seeing this large door raise, lower and seal itself into place silently.
Well explained all around but in my garage door is insolated n sealed outside insolated walls no air movement but gets to 95 degrees F in summer n close to 32 F in winter. It is separate from my house. Thoughts suggestions 🤔
Unfortunately nothing is going to help if the sun is beating on the metal surface of the garage door . Should not impact the house itself though .
I would caulk along the edge of your weather stripping with a clear paintable caulk. Most of them are white and dry clear. A lot of air is passing between the weather stripping and wall.
It would have been interesting to see how well the seal kit would have worked before you installed the side rails!😊
I live in FL. I'm gonna park in the garage lol. Don't need to worry about rain or my car being 1000 degrees.
Note that garages with a gas water heater or furnace or storing gas-powered cars, mowers, etc are supposed to have at least 1/150 sq ft ventilation, split high and low.
Wuth 'modern' tightly sealed garages, there have been a lot of issues with toxic and explosive fume build-up and inadequate combustion air for the appliances. A large vent fan that monitors for gas fumes, carbon monoxide build up, low oxygen levels, etc. is what is used in the basement levels of commercial garages.
Gas furnaces in the garage are required to be direct vent.
I would think that building spaces should be subdivided into those that are climate-controlled and those that are ventilated with outside air. If a garage or storage building which is opened and resealed when outside air is warm and ABSOLUTE humidity is moderately high, and the space is then cooled down, the moisture in air within that space space isn't going to be able to remain as water vapor within that space. It is going to either have to condense within that space or go somewhere else.
I found that putting a little caulk in the door seal (inside cavity) makes a big difference. If you're not using thethermo trak, it'll make a big difference.
@@hansangb dude! Great idea! Use a small bead of 100% clear silicone on one side of the joint, then wait overnight for it to cure. Then move to the next joint! Brilliant!
Garage door pro here also.
I saw his previous video and he did change out the springs.
The thermotrack is a waste of money. If you want the door to seal better than adjust the jamb brackets.
Also buying weather trim from a pro has a much better look and the same sealing ability. Usually not accessible to public since the trim comes in 16ft+ strips for the width of the door.
Anyway, you probably could have saved a ton of time and money by having a pro come take a look and mounting trim.
Good idea, except in my California county the garage requires a large outside vent in the wall. Might only be if a gas water heater. Regardless, rarely gets below freezing.
Thanks for a great effort.
I installed the ThermoTraks system this past Spring and its been great! It did take me a full day to install though.
This is a great video however, I would have loved to see you do the garage seals on the outside first before you installed the tracks since they are a much more expensive option upfront
This is a dumb question... but are you in Saratoga Springs? I lived in Provo for a while, and seeing those mountains at 9:30 makes me miss the people there, how the mountains would light up red in the evening, the snow on Mt. Timp, so so much to love about that area of Utah. (Definitely don't respond if you have any risk of stalkers)
Needed this. Perfect timing.
Good job explaining the process 👍🇺🇸
turned out better than I thought
By the time you add all the weight with insulation foam you now need new springs and with tracks time and everything else you can have a insulated steel back door with vinyl and all for less time and same money
Was just thinking that myself. And, then I saw his shirt. He is ok with spending 3X to DYI :)
Pick up some of the foam, it weighs practically nothing.
I like the tracks. I used a .75 piece of neoprene foam on the bottom seal. The strip was such a pita I quit.
1:40 I bought a cheap electric carving knife and it was awesome!
Tyler I'm so happy for you. I hope she is awesome off camera as she is on
8:43 You should unplug the power cord of the garage door, but don't actually pull the string. Now the ONLY thing keeping that garage door up there is dust in the tracks and the vicegrips. Keep it connected to the track, but unplug the motor, and it'll be a lot safer.
I have yet to find something on Amazon with an "I just dragged my elbow across the keyboard" brand name that isn't low-quality garbage. I bought that same outdoor gasket you used and it has turned yellow and become brittle after only 1 year.
If there are gaps with traditional door tracks I don’t think it’s installed properly. Plus, I live in Florida, unless you’re putting air conditioning in your garage it’s going to be hot regardless.
Sealing the top is also very important security wise, that gap you had was large enough to push a drop weight through to hook into your pullcord. Once that's disconnected you can lift the door if its not locked down via the rail.
Hey Nils another great diy tip.. watching from your old home town. Nw ct.
Do you have any before and after measurements of the temperature and humidity impacts to go along with the airflow?
Thank you for the helpful video but I was wondering if you have any recommendations for an upgraded seal strip at the bottom of the garage door. The day after I had my door installed critters chewed through the rubber seal. Is there something that can hold up to rodents chewing on it?? Thank you for the info.
Reducing the garage door surface temp only has a minimal effect on the room temp of the garage.When we insulated mine we lowered the surface temp 30 degrees and the room temp only dropped 3 degrees.Every little bit helps but it wont be a replacement for air conditioning.
If that door started moving are you sure the vice grips will hold it up? Or are you just adding a flying vice grip to your list of problems? I would think they would hold it up if it had no momentum behind it, but... then you'd want to put the vice grips right up against where the door is sitting, but you put it down a bit. Maybe not enough to let it get much energy built up, but..... I'd have either not used them at all or put it right up against the bottom roller.
Your assistant looks thrilled to be helping…….
Thermo Traks are a neat idea.
7:54 I am sure that Cy home inspector guy would have caught that when this was made. LOL
Building code requires a fire resistant barrier on top of that foam paneling because it is highly flammable. Try installing something like frp on top of those panels.
Yes, fire resistant paint is another option, though expensive.
if you use iso roofing foam it's already fire retardant . get it will the foil skin
Great video. In Florida (high velocity wind zones) do insurance companies offer any rebates for these upgrades?
Will the HOA approve that outdoor seal? I think you should paint it.
Great job with the insulation. Just curious did the additional weight of the insulation affect your door balance?
It definitely did. In the insulation video I talked about needing to keep a close eye on that. I replaced my 10 year old springs for ones that were rated for the additional weight. I have a video about that too :)
@@LRN2DIY thank you
Thanks for putting this video together! I'm not seeing the link for the nylon rollers in the description, would you mind updating or responding with a link. Thanks again!
Cautionary word for newer model garage door opener owners. I could be wrong, but I am told new garage door openers are very efficient, and there is very little tolerance for the weight of the door/ tension in the spring.
If insulation is retro fitted to garage door, make sure the spring tension is adjusted, otherwise the extra weight will cause the garage door opener to fail sooner than expected
Maybe bend the preexisting tracks or glue or screw in place some plastic bumps in the tracks?
Those rails look like they were beat with a hammer. That must make the door alot louder as it moves down the track