Hi Matt! I just finished watching about your garage door sealing. One thing not to forget about that exhaust for the garage most fumes lay low to the ground reason for that you must step down into a garage from a living space, and so if you install the fans at a higher elevation you're going to cause the fumes to pull up before it leaves your house. You got to install that fan low to the ground in order to take all the fumes and exhaust out of your garage wall. So, that fan reduces your air sealing quality by putting that fan in, as you may know, those dampers don't close tight and you lose your air conditioning you lose your heating in your garage just a thought. Thank you for having such a great Channel I built two houses myself and I learned a lot of techniques while I was building my second one on the lake at Lake Hopatcong New Jersey. I Incorporated some tips of yours and it saveed me a lot of time and effort! Take care!
I will never put in uninsulated garage doors again. I installed Clopay "Classic Steel" 16x7 door with no windows with 18.4 R-factor and what a difference it made! My door faces west and the hot Texas Panhandle sun would heat up the garage in the afternoon to a mini oven before with the old insulated steel doors. After I installed the doors, I can go out in the garage in the afternoon and do some actual work in the garage as long as I haven't opened the door all day. I'm 100% believer in insulated doors!
I replaced the original wood garage door on my home about 20 years ago with an insulated steel door, and I think it has made a big difference. I will say, whoever installed this door did a great job because the door is still surprisingly weather resistant. I do like the idea of the new door tracks you showed, that is a neat idea.
I'm right there with you Matt. My garage doubles as my workshop. It has full insulation (same as house), Clopay R18 doors, and a 24K mini split. I have adjusted the garage door tracks numerous times and now have it air tight and perfect. My only trouble spots are those notorious critter corners where the door, frame, and concrete intersect. I've got those gaps down to about pencil-sized hole and can probably live with that. Here's a tip: run the vinyl flap molding all the way down until it touches the concrete.....dont' cut it short. BTW, the Clopay 3-layer insulated doors are fantastic and well worth the cost if you spend as much time in the garage as I do. On a hot 100 degree summer day, the outside of the doors are scalding hot......but the inside is barely warm.
Mice don't have bones, they have cartilage. That's what enables them to squish through a pencil-sized hole. Recommend u fill that hole with steel wool, or make it smaller.
I have a shop with commercial 10’ door and I got the uninsulated and then bought blue 1/2 poly foam and cut out and filled each pocket very tightly. Actually angled the tops and bottoms of each piece to slide in the groves. I put 2 pieces for every square, so I get a full inch of R value. It helps a TON as I keep my shop temperature controlled. It just looks ugly with the blue squares, but I’ll fix it eventually. Lol.
Side mount is the way to go! Super quiet, super sleek. Love the myQ app especially during the construction process to allow me to know everything is safe while I’m not there. In my new construction garage we have 2- R10 insulated garage doors 18’x9’. ZipR9 on walls separating garage and living space. Motion sensor exhaust fans. Living in a cold climate with no heat and no cavity wall insulation yet the garage stays at 56° or higher even on the cold nights. It’s also a 1300sqft garage with 11’ ceilings. A warm garage is always nice to pull into or for those house projects
Yeah, that's funny. You're dad an mine must be related or gone to the same school. Cause my dad had the same exact to the t app. Man! was it effective. That app, helped me an my sister memorize so many important rules to live by.. Don't be late for class Be home before the street lights came on No boys in the house. With this family being self employed, ANSWER CALL WAITING (the 80's it was home phones, not cellies that were our lifeline to the outside world. lol) That app sure did keep us in line, amazing how cellies weren't that well known back then. LMAO!
@Who Cares? either one hurts like hell! And basically has the same lasting effect.😳 Humiliation. Fear. Pain. And the will to follow the laws of his house. This is the class you want to master! More kids these days are missing out on the true meaning of respect, discipline, manners... Due to THE APP not being installed in more households. An I say discipline, not abuse. There's a difference.
We were out of power for days due to the Texas Snowpocalypse ... having a battery backup for the garage door was just wonderful. Used it a dozen times (had to make many trips for supplies, fuel, etc... and leaving the only AWD car I have in the snow and ice didn't make sense).
Haas is vender that makes the best garage doors on the market, (my opinion). I installed 2 steel back sandwich doors on my home, and noticed a huge difference in temps throughout the year. The insulted doors will help maintain whatever the temperature is in the garage. And they are a very durable door, they do not dent as easy and you won't have to worry about the vinyl/foam insulation tearing or puncturing.
I replaced the seal on the underneath side of my garage door when we bought our house in 2016. I still had a large gap right in the middle of the 16' door. I put a "storm seal" or "weather seal" on the garage floor that the door sits on when closed. Made a HUGE difference! Glued it down with poly liquid nails and never looked back. Best $50 I could have spent!
This is due to your floor was not tapered right for the water run off, most floors will have the taper back far enough under the door so water will run away from the door.
I am in Dallas and installed an insulated garage door years ago. I have a window unit that cools my garage during the worst of the Summer and the insulated door makes a BIG difference.
I can confirm that an insulated door does make a significant and noticeable difference to the comfort and quiet of a garage, even in a temperate climate.
Really liked the follow up on the seal, something for other folks to look out for if they choose to use the product. It's not a bad thing that we have to change the way "we've always done it" to make things better. I think the company may use the feedback to make some design changes or recommendations to the end installer to correct the possible issue. Nice work, Matt!
When I was stationed in Germany a couple years ago, our garage had a really nice door made by Hörmann. It was quiet (my wife's favorite characteristic), sealed well, looked good, and had good functionality. They're available here (manufactured in Illinois) and worth considering if you haven't already decided on a door.
I installed the thermotrak system last year in my front and rear garage doors. Living in Minnesota we get all of the crazy temperatures and wind.. these tracks and new seal have helped immensely with keeping the space heated in the winter and cool in the summer.. highly recommend them
Thank you for that little update at the end. It's always sketchy when people advertise products and never mention them again. It's more comforting to know how to OVER KILL IT right the first time.
Good stuff. You can use VOC sensors to trigger the exhaust. It'll help with your efficiency goals and also trigger based on actual air quality instead of just motion and false positives of motion. Thanks for your videos as always.
Fellow Pittsburgher now living in NW Wyoming just outside Yellowstone. Strong westerly winds here most of the time and my garage doors face west. Installed Clopay insulated doors that are also “wind rated.” Very happy so far. Also have 2 Chamberlain openers with My-Q. Installed mini split in garage for heating and cooling after watching your videos. Thanks for all your advice-I used much of it in my new build.
@@acommentator69 Exactly my thought. Just sending me free stuff for which I provide over the top endorsement for. "What a genius idea." After that ridiculous real home remodel (cant believe its still under construction), I stopped watching his videos for a while. I tried again with this, and I realized why I had stopped in the first place. He just doesn't get it...
When I replaced our garage doors (insulated) I had the track radius increased. It not only made the garage door quieter as the curve was increased for a smoother ride but it raised the mounting height of the opener and upper tracks significantly! Wow does the garage feel much larger!!!
I had my original uninsulated 2 car wide garage door replaced with an Amarr brand insulated door and the difference was noticeable. What made even more difference was to apply dark window tint to the small windows in the garage door. The difference was pretty amazing. My garage door faces south east and that morning and noon sun would bake the inside of the garage. The dark tint easily lowered temps by 20 degrees.
@@AidanSkoyles I wrote that in the middle, when I realized what the bent tracks could do to clamp the seals. No doubt the bottom seal attachment leaves much to be desired.
DONT waste your money on those tracks/“green hinges”..... cut the RUBBER FLANGE off your existing weather seal (top/sides) install new 2” VINYL WEATHERSEAL STOP MOULDING! Adjust your track to be FUNCTIONAL 1st and as TIGHT OF A SEAL against the outside weatherseal as possible while the door still rolls smoothly (check by hand, 2fingers pressure should open/close the door) if it’s smooth and tight then run with your electric opener (reprofile the opener system if modern 2015+)
This video was packed with ideas! Really something for everyone. I have the same garage doors that i insulated with a foil faced 1/2" foam board. Foil facing toward the outside. I noticed a pretty big difference.
Just a tip, foil should always face an open air space. You should have at least a 1/2 inch air gap. Other wise it won't do nearly as much. My guess is that you live in a warm climate so it won't really matter. But for anyone reading foil faces inward in cold climates and not really needed in warm climates unless you have an air gap.
Foil facing inward helps in hot climates too. It reflects radiant heat from warmer surfaces to cooler surfaces, helping to cool all surfaces in the living space more evenly.
@@EricPeelMusic Balancing the heat in the room will have a fairly negligible effect on efficiency. It may improve comfort but the cost of the radiant barrier might not be made back by the small increas in efficiency. In cold climates the impact is much greater. That's why I suggest only using inward facing radiant barriers in cold climates. However radiant barriers used properly on the exterior can reduce heat gain significantly in hot climates.
Last 3 homes I built for myself had insulated garage doors. Much quieter. Also specified extended life spring which is guaranteed for three times the up/down cycles.
We added a commercial exhaust fan in our 3 car garage. When you pull 2 or 3 vehicles into the garage in the summer time the temp rises well over 100 degrees. Even though the ceiling is insulated, it still raise the temp in the bonus room above the garage. The exhaust fan solved all these issues. We run the exhaust fan 24 hours a day all summer long and it works great. All garages should have exhaust fans.
Insulated doors are great 99.9% of the time. However, if you have heated garage and it is really cold out side the door can deform due to thermal dynamics. The outside metal shrinks and inside metal will expand (or not shrink), thus creating gap at the top as it bows inward. Outside temp zero farinhiet, inside 72F when i experienced this. I used an opposing squeeze camp and a board to push the top and close the gap. I have not figured out a more permanent solution as of yet. Just thought I'd share this experince. Best to all.
Having had heated/cooled 4 car garages in my prior homes in Minneapolis-St Paul, Columbus OH, Carmel Indiana, DFW TX, and now NW Arkansas, I’ve never experienced winter temps in said garages in which the heater produced heated space over mid-60 temps (insulated garage walls, windows, utility doors and garage doors)
Tip from a garage door pro. If you want two cars to fit in a house you are building 16' wide doors suck. There is next to no room to open your doors and move between the vehicles. 18' wide is far better, but two 9' wide doors is best. You open smaller doors to the elements and you spread the wear and tear out across two doors. Also, jack shaft motors are nothing but a headache on a door with traditional tracks. They are meant for high lift tracks. It even states this clearly in the manual, but most door guys are hacks. Make sure they pitch your tracks downhill on the door or you will constantly throw cables off the door as your torsion shaft begins to warp after years of being turned from one side. Traditional motor is far better for your setup.
The clopay insulated doors are excellent. I like them. In Miami they also carry the hurricane wind rating, which is crucial since they can get very heavy with both the insulation and wind ratings. Cheers!
We live in Southern Az. My garage is 26x22 with 9ft ceiling fully insulated. It stays nice and comfortable. We have a Wayne Dalton 8300 door. It was 23° this morning and it was 69° in the garage. No heating or cool installed. I like the threma track and might have to look into getting them. Thanks for your show.
Here's a thought if you're concerned about garage air into the house. For the _CEILING_ of the garage (on your remodel there's no storage space) use some of the ZIP sheathing+drywall. That should prevent any air-leaks between the garage and the boys bedroom(s). . . I don't know what that "smart" exhaust fan system costs, but I installed an exhaust fan (16" designed for a barn) in _MY_ garage for undr $100.00 (discounting labor since I did it myself). Adding a motion sensing controller to the circuit powering that fan shouldn't cost more than another $50.00.
Makes no difference how many layers you add - carbon monoxide can diffuse through most materials if given the right concentration and time. Garage requirements under living spaces is for fire protection. If Dad decides to smoke a tailpipe in the garage, then son may be taking a dirt nap as well, regardless of 'tight' precautions!
Hey Matt thanks for the info on S Tracks. I am a big Garage guy. I have epoxied the floor, installed base molding and the best thing is the Liftmaster 8500 jack shaft opener with the MyQ interface. You should consider the 8500 for your house especially for applications where there is living space above the garage. This is a much quieter install. Keep up the good work.
Matt, when you install the horizontal track, on the new house, try using follow the roofline incline track. Combined with the 8500 Chamberlain side mount operator, this will completely open up the ceiling space .
Central NY here. Insulated door made a huge difference in temperature and comfort verses old wooden garage door with glass windows. Still not sealed perfectly, but that's why I'm watching this video!
'figure out how to get the garage door down'... you grab the handle for the manual disconnect and lower the door. Then re-engage it and fix it later at a more convenient time.
....been doin that for years. PLASTIC GEARS in the electric door opener.....???/ who woulda thunk......more modern junk......goto hell, you manufacturers...plastic.......our planet is drowning in that shit...
Yes, I've installed insulation to each panels on my entire garage door and it keeps it cool in the summer and warm in the winter! I also did half insulated every windows throughout my house with the same 2" styrofoam with the silver on the other side and it saves us a lot during winter and summer months. Living in Vegas it only make sense to do it! We rarely turn on the heat or air conditioning except when it gets way too hot like 100 and up! Makes a huge difference in our bills.
Back in 1987/88 my custom built over sized heated garage became my home cabinet/fabrication shop. To reduce noise transmission, and for thermal stability I installed Double Metal garage door sections with 11/2"foam cores inside. Outside you could hear a bit of the router noise, but none of the compressor, table saw, duct collection, chop saw etc. sounds. I called it my shop. My peers all called it the operating room. Yes, the doors and seals are very important. cheers.
@Matt Risinger Hello. Thanks for the video. Looks like I am a few years late to reply. Just saw this video. Anyway I just moved into my Newley built home back in September 2023. We since had the brand new basic metal single panel 2 car garage door removed and replaced with the same looking door but it’s insulated. It’s metal on both sides. The nice thing it did was provided better sound proofing. We also removed our ceiling mounted garage door motor and went with a side mount jack opener. Also very nice. The bedroom above the garage area no longer has to has to hear the loud chain and loud door noises. The heavier door does not rattle all over inside the tracks. What we did see that was a negative. Within a couple days after the install. When we went into the garage and opened the door. We saw water dripping from the inside of the door. When we went to close the door water was squirting from all around the window panels. Yes we have windows across the top of the door all the way across. Anyway we were shocked about this. When we looked at our humidity and temp gauge in the garage. The humidity was around 80%. Since we have a more sealed in garage door. The moisture was building up significantly in the garage. This went away with the use of a dehumidifier. We do not have a MiniSplit in our garage. This water and humidity build up went away. We are now down around 40. Of course the days it rains is when the dehumidifier runs. Since it’s winter the cold air sucks moisture out or dries things out. So the dehumidifier barely runs. The reason this all happened is because the air gets trapped more inside the garage. What will really be hard is come summer. When the humidity will always be high. We live in South Carolina where it’s humid. We do have some small openings around the bottom of the door where the outside brick and the door trim meet. So that lets air or humidity into the garage. We do have a large ceiling fan on the ceiling in the garage. We have no idea what we will experience come summer. Hopefully we don’t find that the heat will also get trapped inside the garage now that we have an insulated door. We totally didn’t think this part out or expect this. We for sure will need to run a dehumidifier to control the humidity. We just hope that we can also somehow keep the heat from building up or being worse than it would have been with a basic metal non insulated door. I know that many of you would say install a MiniSplit. But we just do not want to have to do that.
I like the idea of a camera automatically filming the delivery guy instead of letting them into your house for delivery. But it would be much safer to build or buy a separate storage box on the side of the house they can access instead. Because you’re still giving a stranger a good look inside your home.
Right. That's like the problem we had when I was growing up on the South Side of Chicago. The garbage men passed through the alleys, "casing the joint" and their "associates" showed up later to relieve us of our stuff or, worse, report zoning violations to the authorities.
Thank you. I have a CHI insulated door and its been great, seals very tight and well insulated. Mine were around an R-14 and I think they go to an R-17 or higher. It was a big upgrade from a wooden garage door.
After installing one on a new garage addition door for clearance, I removed a perfectly functional overhead drive system on the other overhead door, junked it, and replaced with another Liftmaster opener. Yes, they're that much better than the outdate gear/chain overhead openers.
I love the concept of the adhesive weatherstrips on the sides of the doors. I will have to look into installing them on my own garage doors. The tracks are a cool concept also, but if you have quality HD adjustable tracks and hardware like the ones which came with our doors you don't need anything better. Heavy gauge tracks & hardware are a must in order to have tight fitting weatherproof doors. In 2011 we added a 28'X48' 2 car garage-shop to our home. Like you I wanted an area I can work in comfortably. The walls are 2X6 with blown in cellulose insulation & 16" of cellulose blown in the attic, so it is very well insulated & vented with ridge vent. We have a 36" Therma-Tru Fibergass walk door at both ends of the garage & went with (2) 8'X10' Ideal garage doors with windows at the top of them. They have full 2 inch "Intellicore" polyurethane insulation with an 18.4 R value & heavy gauge steel construction with lifetime paint warranty. Something I did to ensure a better seal at the bottom of the doors was to shove a 10' length of Styrofoam tubing (used to insulate copper water lines) inside the bottom weatherstrip. Both doors are extremely weather tight, water, & bug proof. Ideal is a division of Clopay & are made in America. Another weather stripping system you may want to check out is call Snirt Stopper. Their system looks amazing. www.stopthesnirt.com/
Highly recommend the side Mount garage door opener! Clean install and frees up a ton of space overhead. I used the Liftmaster 8500 but I’m sure there are others that might be better.
I’m a garage door tech in the west texas area and our company uses CHI Doors with Liftmaster operators and I would highly recommend the CHI insulated doors. They’re great!
The last thing any car needs is a warm humid environment. No issue with any of your proposals but keep the humidity under control as low corrosion levels are one big advantage of a drafty garage.
I live in the PNW, switched to an insulated door about 10 years ago. It made what I consider a significant savings in my winter heating bill. For your existing door go to the home center and get foam board and use that to insulate your door.
What about rain/water buildup? Also as your springs relax over time the door will sit lower and lower and likely to have the top of the door slip under the header and create a huge problem. There’s a product called “STORMSHIELD” you could use one on the outside and another on the inside of the door creating a damn but not interesting with the doors functioning.
@@oknave327 I eventually rented a gas powered cutter for about $150 for 4 hours; the cut looks fine but I will finish it on both sides with 2" aluminum angle along the edges and it looks bitchin gotta say.
@@greatdoorsandgates4991 good question about the water and something that was on my mind; the slab is divided right down the middle all the way to the street so I just widened it a little where it intersects with my channel. Water won't get into the garage even if the 'drain' gets clogged because the garage floor was poured about an inch above the threshold and the driveway slopes down enough too. As for the springs those are adjustable but I replaced the whole door with a coil-up.
Insulated door? YES. Worth it. I'm in Maine. It gets really cold here for four months and I chose the insulated door for the garage because it's heated by in-floor radiant. I like the extra weather stripping ideas in this video!
As soon as I watched this video, I ordered the Genie battery backup for my garage door. No more worrying about the power going out. Looking at the ThermoTraks now ...
Haha! "A couple staples later..." I really like the Chamberlin MyQ with the belt drive. Same comment as IG (LumberJohn), I used the R-6.5 Clopay garage door a few years ago. It has been great, and it was the best mix between cost and insulation, and it kills a lot of road noise.
A big thing that I hate with most garages is not having a lot of extra space on either sides. I know you had limits with your new one keeping the slab, but I know if I build anything new it will have 4-5ft at least on both sides for storage shelves.
This is nice if you have the land, but in a lot of suburban areas houses are built with a footprint that takes up the maximum allowed amount of the lot. So, in some cases you would need to take away from the living area to do this.
Green hinge garage door system works great as well. Has a spring on the hinge that pushes door against the weather stripping. Installed on our door in Missouri. Great product
My family's homes have had problems with rats and other pest creatures coming in for a long time. (During my college years, there was some kinda animal(s) living in our attic, and I'd wake up, sometimes in the morning, sometimes late at night to sounds that sounded like something the size of a cat scrambling around up there or in the walls. And this went on for years until I started having nightmares about such animals coming through our walls. We also had pigeons that roosted outside the master bathroom window.) Now that I'm in charge of remodeling my family's homes, animal exclusion is something I'm paranoid about and have done more than a reasonable amount of research on. Screens, hardware cloth mesh, steel/copper wools impregnated with foams or elastomeric stretch fillers, bird spikes, you name it. Current product I'm interested in are Xcluder's fill fabrics and door bottoms. They have heavy-duty steel wool, more abrasive than a brillo scouring pad, made of stainless steel, stuffed into equally heavy-duty rubber, in door bottoms (regular and garage). They also have those automatic door bottoms, and they make commercial products as well. Most of their product line is focused on sealing rodentproof gaps that usually are targets for weatherproofing. Looking at these for closing and sealing all the various door gaps, particularly on our garage and side doors. Check out their stuff: buyxcluder.com/solutions/residential.html
Garage door sensor install: I like how your installer coiled the low voltage cable into a springlike configuration, it keeps it neat and allows the slack one need for service. This is an old technique used by the phone company in the early days. (6:05)
R11?? I find that hard to believe. The best insulators like polyiso are R5 per inch so that door would need to be 2 inches thick AND have a solution for the seams and joints.
@@allent555 Wow they look like really nice doors for sure and would love one that's insulated as that. I'm having trouble believing their claims though, R10/inch is WAY higher than other known foam core insulations. R10/inch is up there with aerogel so unless they're doing something else that's getting those R-values, I'm somewhat dubious of those claims and if they're true, then they need to get into whole home insulation with whatever they're using as you could potentially get R60 insulation on a 6" stud or R80 on an 8" stud!
Hey Matt. I'm in the Atlanta market and had occasion to replace my garage doors a while back. I went with insulated and it makes a HUGE difference. It is usually 20-30 degrees warmer in the garage than outside on even the coldest days. Also, when I replaced the bottom seal, I inserted two full lengths of 1/2" back rod to prevent the seal from getting completely smashed. I presume you are supposed to set the limiter so it doesn't do that, but I am only able to seal out daylight (air) when I really run it down hard. Never had any issue with the standard weather seal on the sides. Thank for the great videos.
On an HVAC podcast I listen to they just did the whole episode on CO. They specifically talked about extra, especially garage type, intake or exhaust fans. In short, the tighter the house, the more you should be concerned with changing the, esp. negative, pressure balance. They wound up their story by saying your equipment and locations should be actually-tested in-use with a CO tester and monitoring installed. He said a lot of the assumptions, even many that are taught, may or may not stand up to testing in specific applications. CO is odorless, colorless, tasteless, and must be tested tomdetect. You may, MAY, smell and notice aldehydes as byproducts of combustion, but that's a maybe and you cannot depend on it!
I live in South Florida and a insulated garage door was a must. A side benefit, it added a whole level of quiet both from the out side but the sound of the door closing is much more quiet
Just about any of the major door manufacturers make a 2: insulated "sandwich" door which is a 2" polystyrene (base models) or olyurethane (high end) sandwiched between a steel outside and a steel inside, Higher end have thermal breaks between front and back. I have 25 years in the industry and have installed many brands, Clopay is my personal favorite.
The scheduled garage door close at night is great! Its saved me from leaving my garage door open over night several times. Also really like the quietness of the belt driven door openers versus the chain drive openers.
So worth it. Trying to seal up garage doors with large door stripping for commercial usage is a fight and never as good as it should be. I’m I. The northeast and this video just got saved
I heard a Matt Risinger line in this episode which epitomizes why us fans like Matt and is probably true for most of us. The quote is "Let me know, I'm curious". Matt, thanks for what you do to satisfy our curiosity.
The lift master with the camera and the my IQ app is awesome for a garage door opener and thank you for showing the upgrades on the weatherstripping for the garage you couldn’t of made this video any sooner because I was just working that issue today thank you again Matt
I always install exhaust fans in garages in our new builds. Removing fumes is one benefit, but here in the PNW especially, pulling into the garage with a rain-soaked car with a warm engine is a recipe for disaster (mold) since all new builds are drywall finish inside. If you want a climate controlled garage, get a make up air intake with powered damper to open when the exhaust fan runs.
Im a door installer in PA and Insulated is popular here, insulated also is much quieter when in motion and helps tremendously with heat and a/c some are rated as high as 18+ R value. And i know your mr. Insulation so i think on the new house you'd be happy and impressed with the quality. I can recommend 2 really good manufacturers I know that one of them has distributions out you way also battery back up will only run 6-8 full cycles max (that one of the tests we have ran to give ppl a more realistic amount)
Don't you too, have makeup air to your garage? - for my door we have a "controlled gap" at the edges. It helps to mitigate CO toxicity in a "sensorless system". (jk)
kadmow We have that same exact system, only our make up air is filtered by arachnid silk before it enters the garage. But I don’t think Matt has that system, so he may need a separate source for make up air. 🤔
Just got rid of old leaky wood and Masonite "style and rail" doors, and installed insulated double sided metal doors w low e glass and much better seals on all 4 sides - all I can say is wow - much quieter operations and dampened outdoor noises too, but the big bonus is more comfortable temperature in my unheated garage - when it was 39 degrees out it was 69 degrees in - before it would only have been about 8-10 degrees warmer than outside.
@@MyDIYAdventures Not really - if you listen, he often says HE reaches out them (and I'm sure brags about his channel). IF he was a top channel THEY would be reaching out to him.
I ran a 3/8" rubber weather strip on the door to sandwich the exterior trim weather strip that has worked really for the past few years . I also self leveled the concrete apron that doors sit on to give the gasket a smooth level surface to seal against . At high noon I have no light shining through anywhere with the doors shut.
Well we just put foam boards in the door and we have an ac split, easily gets colder than inside the house now down here in Florida. (we set it to about 72 F when we are working hard in there)
When I add a new bottom seal rubber I take a foam tube that would go around a 3/4" water pipe to stop freezing or dripping. then cut it in half length wise making it a semi circle. I then taped enough strips together to go the length of the door, and pulled it through the bottom rubber bottom tube. This way when the door comes to rest on the concrete or floor gasket it will seal tight and not collapse. I've used that on several doors and it works great.
My garage door was not insulated so I added 1.5" Styrofoam sheets cut to fit inside the garage pannels. It helped a lot and made about a 10 degree difference in the garage temperature.
Live just south of Chicago and installed an insulated door. Mine came from Sears they had the highest Rvalue door at 19.5 that was 7 years ago. with new insulation in the walls and ceiling the garage rarely dips below 35 during our deep freeze -40F it got to 26F
If the manufacturers are giving you product and you’re installing and talking about the product on your show, it is most definitely a paid advertisement 🙄🤣
The products given to Matt are mostly samples (sometimes given to any who ask), likely incomplete, in that samples are not the complete kit adequate for instillation. Who profits here are the suppliers of these products and Matt's viewers. But you are ok -- being rational and fair is something we all struggle with.
I appreciate the disclosure and don’t believe that Matt would risk his reputation by recommending a crappy product just because he received a free sample worth a couple hundred bucks😊
You are completely right, I'm 100% sure this video is in violation of FTC guidelines. Receiving anything for free in exchange for an endorsement makes it a sponsored video. The only way this video would not be sponsored is if he had NOT mentioned the name of the product or company that makes the said product
@@mjt1517 The Federal Trade Commission cares, that's who. All free goods received count as sponsorship, not just cash. He has actually broken the FTC's law in this video, maybe other vids too, that could get him in serious legal trouble if people took the time to report him to the FTC.
I've used the Wayne Dalton insulated doors before. One thing I notice with more air tight homes, is when you open the house to garage door, the garage door will move. So that upgraded garage door track looks like it would come in handy.
I live where it is 110-115 in the summer here in Northern California. I have an insulated garage door. It faces west so it gets that hot afternoon sun. It makes a world of difference. California requires a battery back up on replacing because of Wild fires.
I live in the north east where it gets very cold. With two garage door I got the best door insulation for both door. The garage never gets cold might get to 60 degrees. Outside is below 20 and the garage is never that cold. In the summer it will stay cool on hot days. I also use the my q app for the doors and works very well. Great videos keep up the good job.
Matt, new bottom door seals are great, but they will crush fairly quickly and you will have leaks again. A good solution is to slide some 3/4” foam backer rod into the new door seal while you’re installing. It makes a very tight seal especially if the floor has inconsistencies. Clopay makes a great insulated door. I installed 2 in my new house in MN in 2016 and have had no complaints.
The garage ventilator and the mini-split seem like a strange combo. When you’re working in the garage, what prevents you from walking past the ventilator, triggering the motion sensor, and then blowing all your conditioned air right out of the garage?
I agree- unless it’s on like a pseudo holifax sensor based on the track (only movement of the door counts) You could have some false vents. Maybe he could tie it to the door opener activating instead? Still gonna false vent when the kids take their bikes out, but short of gps triggered activation on a cell phone in the car it’s probably as good as it gets.
Depending on vehicle (he mentions suburban) you could either place the sensor at a height where its above people's heads but below the roof line of the vehicle. or you could place it facing the tracks so it activates whenever the door opens or closes. Though a better system would be an air quality sensor that would exhaust when air quality past a certain point, as well as having an override switch so you could turn it on before you started painting or something. Best system would be to have one of those heat exchanger things (cant remember the name) that brings in a constant supply of fresh air, and exhausts stale air that mat loves for the inside. Just a smaller scale one dedicated for the garage, which could be set on a timer or just constantly run at a low flow rate. which would provide not only an exhaust but a filtered intake. Though that would likely be a much more expensive venture. One could fairly easily design an all in one type small HVAC unit for a garage that had such a system built in, thus all the things could be controlled independently of the main house from temperature and humidity, to ventilation to maximize either comfort or whatever. Though at that point you're probably better off just having a large detached garage.
Matt - you’d asked for comments about insulated doors. We live in northwestern NJ, 1100’ above sea level with the garage on the western end of the house (so it gets the brunt of the prevailing winter winds). We installed insulated and weatherstripped doors, and insulated walls when the home was built. I can keep a jug of distilled water in the garage all winter and know it will never freeze. Part of that is obviously heat loss from the house, but better to hold onto that heat than to lose it completely... a easy to heat with kerosene for the occasional winter garage work day.
@@Chris_at_Home Plus the install is incredibly simple. I am on 1 year with mine with battery backup and wifi...love it and the app for remote control and monitoring. Worth the extra cost. Upgraded from a Wayne Dalton I-drive.
I too have the Liftmaster branded version w/battery backup. Smooth & quiet operation. No matter the label, they’re both owned by CGI( Chamerlain Group INC).
GO BUY THE GENIE for the TOP TIER JACKSHAFT sure to outlast the chamberlain 12v junk! Genies motor doesn’t have that POS cable tension monitor and is SAFER! Way more power and their transmission WONT WEAR OUT like the Liftmaster. Genie 24VDC NO CABLE TENSION, Liftmaster/Chamberlain 12vdc junk
I upgraded to a battery backup when I replaced my overhead garage door and opener. It's paid for itself several times already. We chose To replace the door with a foam insulated, double thickness steel door with insulating glass lites. Now, even without heat, our garage never gets below freezing in the harshest of Indiana winters.
On my last house I replaced the double solid garage door with an aluminum clad insulated roll up door. I loved it. I now have a large garage with four single doors. I'm replacing all of them with insulated roll up. I also want to put one side mount motor on a door.
@@HOBrian2003 Second the CHI Doors. I have a model 5600 carriage house overlay door from them. It has foamed-in-place polyurethane insulation (R-17.5). I like the foamed-in-place better than preformed foam inserts because it adheres to the steel skins and stiffens the door appreciably. Whatever brand Matt gets, he should go for the expanding foam insulation for structural and thermal performance.
My parents fiberglass garage door faced due east and the garage would be like an oven by 10:00 am. They replaced the standard door with an insulated door offered by a garage door company...nothing upgraded to the insulation, but they did get the model with windows. What a difference! It was really nice because their laundry was in the garage and it made it much more comfortable than baking hot, although the garage would still always be at the temperature and humidity of the outside air once the door was opened for a car. The natural light was nice, too.
Sounds like an extra point of failure compared to these tracks. The tracks won't wear over time but the springs will. Either way I'm sure they're both great products
Yah, LiftMaster makes a nice opener. My neighbor recently replaced his 'hung in the center, ugly as sin' openers with new LiftMaster units that are mounted high on the wall next to the door. Now he has a clear expanse of ceiling.
Matt. Remember that your door will close even if you are having trouble with the beam sensors or pressure sensor by simply pushing and holding down the button on the wall. Of course you'll need to fix the issue later but it might save you a trip home to rescue your wife.
I just replaced the drive belt on my Chamberlain unit. The $84 belt had a lifetime warranty! They shipped it at no charge. I watched the TH-cam video - done!
With all the smart solutions I would opt for a sidewinder garage opener versus an overhead one. Especially with bedrooms over the garage you want a silent opener.
Hi Matt! I just finished watching about your garage door sealing. One thing not to forget about that exhaust for the garage most fumes lay low to the ground reason for that you must step down into a garage from a living space, and so if you install the fans at a higher elevation you're going to cause the fumes to pull up before it leaves your house. You got to install that fan low to the ground in order to take all the fumes and exhaust out of your garage wall. So, that fan reduces your air sealing quality by putting that fan in, as you may know, those dampers don't close tight and you lose your air conditioning you lose your heating in your garage just a thought. Thank you for having such a great Channel I built two houses myself and I learned a lot of techniques while I was building my second one on the lake at Lake Hopatcong New Jersey. I Incorporated some tips of yours and it saveed me a lot of time and effort! Take care!
I will never put in uninsulated garage doors again. I installed Clopay "Classic Steel" 16x7 door with no windows with 18.4 R-factor and what a difference it made! My door faces west and the hot Texas Panhandle sun would heat up the garage in the afternoon to a mini oven before with the old insulated steel doors. After I installed the doors, I can go out in the garage in the afternoon and do some actual work in the garage as long as I haven't opened the door all day. I'm 100% believer in insulated doors!
I replaced the original wood garage door on my home about 20 years ago with an insulated steel door, and I think it has made a big difference. I will say, whoever installed this door did a great job because the door is still surprisingly weather resistant. I do like the idea of the new door tracks you showed, that is a neat idea.
I'm right there with you Matt. My garage doubles as my workshop. It has full insulation (same as house), Clopay R18 doors, and a 24K mini split. I have adjusted the garage door tracks numerous times and now have it air tight and perfect. My only trouble spots are those notorious critter corners where the door, frame, and concrete intersect. I've got those gaps down to about pencil-sized hole and can probably live with that. Here's a tip: run the vinyl flap molding all the way down until it touches the concrete.....dont' cut it short. BTW, the Clopay 3-layer insulated doors are fantastic and well worth the cost if you spend as much time in the garage as I do. On a hot 100 degree summer day, the outside of the doors are scalding hot......but the inside is barely warm.
Mice don't have bones, they have cartilage. That's what enables them to squish through a pencil-sized hole. Recommend u fill that hole with steel wool, or make it smaller.
"Toyota came out with some great ideas, I'm not affiliated with them or anything but they did send me a free car"
lol
Funny comment.
😂
🤣
Lol right 😂😂😂😂😂
I have a shop with commercial 10’ door and I got the uninsulated and then bought blue 1/2 poly foam and cut out and filled each pocket very tightly. Actually angled the tops and bottoms of each piece to slide in the groves. I put 2 pieces for every square, so I get a full inch of R value. It helps a TON as I keep my shop temperature controlled. It just looks ugly with the blue squares, but I’ll fix it eventually. Lol.
Side mount is the way to go! Super quiet, super sleek. Love the myQ app especially during the construction process to allow me to know everything is safe while I’m not there. In my new construction garage we have 2- R10 insulated garage doors 18’x9’. ZipR9 on walls separating garage and living space. Motion sensor exhaust fans. Living in a cold climate with no heat and no cavity wall insulation yet the garage stays at 56° or higher even on the cold nights. It’s also a 1300sqft garage with 11’ ceilings. A warm garage is always nice to pull into or for those house projects
I remember that 70s app my dad carried on him for when we left the garage door open, but we called it a leather belt! Never forgot to close it again.
fukn funny !
The Special Edition APP, Cowhide Leather !!!!!!!!!!!
I'm sorry your father abused you.
Yeah, that's funny.
You're dad an mine must be related or gone to the same school.
Cause my dad had the same exact to the t app. Man! was it effective.
That app, helped me an my sister memorize so many important rules to live by..
Don't be late for class
Be home before the street lights came on
No boys in the house.
With this family being self employed, ANSWER CALL WAITING (the 80's it was home phones, not cellies that were our lifeline to the outside world. lol)
That app sure did keep us in line,
amazing how cellies weren't that well known back then. LMAO!
@Who Cares? either one hurts like hell!
And basically has the same lasting effect.😳
Humiliation. Fear. Pain. And the will to follow the laws of his house.
This is the class you want to master!
More kids these days are missing out on the true meaning of respect, discipline, manners...
Due to THE APP not being installed in more households.
An I say discipline, not abuse. There's a difference.
We were out of power for days due to the Texas Snowpocalypse ... having a battery backup for the garage door was just wonderful. Used it a dozen times (had to make many trips for supplies, fuel, etc... and leaving the only AWD car I have in the snow and ice didn't make sense).
Haas is vender that makes the best garage doors on the market, (my opinion). I installed 2 steel back sandwich doors on my home, and noticed a huge difference in temps throughout the year. The insulted doors will help maintain whatever the temperature is in the garage. And they are a very durable door, they do not dent as easy and you won't have to worry about the vinyl/foam insulation tearing or puncturing.
I replaced the seal on the underneath side of my garage door when we bought our house in 2016. I still had a large gap right in the middle of the 16' door. I put a "storm seal" or "weather seal" on the garage floor that the door sits on when closed. Made a HUGE difference! Glued it down with poly liquid nails and never looked back. Best $50 I could have spent!
This is due to your floor was not tapered right for the water run off, most floors will have the taper back far enough under the door so water will run away from the door.
Curious as to where the water or snow melt will run to if that hump is sealed to the floor?
I am in Dallas and installed an insulated garage door years ago. I have a window unit that cools my garage during the worst of the Summer and the insulated door makes a BIG difference.
I can confirm that an insulated door does make a significant and noticeable difference to the comfort and quiet of a garage, even in a temperate climate.
I just bent my rails like these expensive ones. Garage is tighter now. Thanks for the tip!
How did you bend them?
Really? The rails are not bent; they are forged to be about one inch dropped from the straight run.
Really liked the follow up on the seal, something for other folks to look out for if they choose to use the product. It's not a bad thing that we have to change the way "we've always done it" to make things better. I think the company may use the feedback to make some design changes or recommendations to the end installer to correct the possible issue. Nice work, Matt!
It was installed incorrectly. According to manufacturer instructions.
When I was stationed in Germany a couple years ago, our garage had a really nice door made by Hörmann. It was quiet (my wife's favorite characteristic), sealed well, looked good, and had good functionality. They're available here (manufactured in Illinois) and worth considering if you haven't already decided on a door.
I installed the thermotrak system last year in my front and rear garage doors. Living in Minnesota we get all of the crazy temperatures and wind.. these tracks and new seal have helped immensely with keeping the space heated in the winter and cool in the summer.. highly recommend them
Just ordered a set for my 9 ft. garage door. Hoping this is a solution for keeping garage cool in Florida summer.
Thank you for that little update at the end. It's always sketchy when people advertise products and never mention them again. It's more comforting to know how to OVER KILL IT right the first time.
Good stuff. You can use VOC sensors to trigger the exhaust. It'll help with your efficiency goals and also trigger based on actual air quality instead of just motion and false positives of motion. Thanks for your videos as always.
Does anyone have a link to a VOC sensor that can be used to automate the exhaust fan. I can only find them for humidity.
@@CPTDanified Try enecont, we use these all the time for various rooms, can't put a link on here as YT just deletes any non YT links
Fellow Pittsburgher now living in NW Wyoming just outside Yellowstone. Strong westerly winds here most of the time and my garage doors face west. Installed Clopay insulated doors that are also “wind rated.” Very happy so far. Also have 2 Chamberlain openers with My-Q. Installed mini split in garage for heating and cooling after watching your videos. Thanks for all your advice-I used much of it in my new build.
I’m not affiliated with any of these companies and they aren’t paying. They just sent me a bunch of free stuff.
Lol
@@acommentator69 Exactly my thought. Just sending me free stuff for which I provide over the top endorsement for. "What a genius idea." After that ridiculous real home remodel (cant believe its still under construction), I stopped watching his videos for a while. I tried again with this, and I realized why I had stopped in the first place. He just doesn't get it...
@@LimitOfN He benefits from not getting it. Motivated reasoning.
Exactly lol.
He’s just doing product review. Pretty basic in the TH-cam world. It’s great we get to see it.
When I replaced our garage doors (insulated) I had the track radius increased. It not only made the garage door quieter as the curve was increased for a smoother ride but it raised the mounting height of the opener and upper tracks significantly! Wow does the garage feel much larger!!!
I loved the "real time" updates at the end.
I had my original uninsulated 2 car wide garage door replaced with an Amarr brand insulated door and the difference was noticeable. What made even more difference was to apply dark window tint to the small windows in the garage door. The difference was pretty amazing. My garage door faces south east and that morning and noon sun would bake the inside of the garage. The dark tint easily lowered temps by 20 degrees.
I have been looking for a good way to seal my garage door for some time now, but didn't really know where to begin. This is brilliant.
Lol. Did you watch till the end? This ain’t it
@@AidanSkoyles I wrote that in the middle, when I realized what the bent tracks could do to clamp the seals. No doubt the bottom seal attachment leaves much to be desired.
DONT waste your money on those tracks/“green hinges”..... cut the RUBBER FLANGE off your existing weather seal (top/sides) install new 2” VINYL WEATHERSEAL STOP MOULDING! Adjust your track to be FUNCTIONAL 1st and as TIGHT OF A SEAL against the outside weatherseal as possible while the door still rolls smoothly (check by hand, 2fingers pressure should open/close the door) if it’s smooth and tight then run with your electric opener (reprofile the opener system if modern 2015+)
@Martin Boothe how do you add the chinking when putting on the bottom seal?
This video was packed with ideas! Really something for everyone. I have the same garage doors that i insulated with a foil faced 1/2" foam board. Foil facing toward the outside. I noticed a pretty big difference.
^thinks infomercials are "educational"
@@grumpycat_1 actually he said it was full of ideas not educational. I knew nothing about those thermotraks. So yeah it did have some good ideas.
Just a tip, foil should always face an open air space. You should have at least a 1/2 inch air gap. Other wise it won't do nearly as much. My guess is that you live in a warm climate so it won't really matter. But for anyone reading foil faces inward in cold climates and not really needed in warm climates unless you have an air gap.
Foil facing inward helps in hot climates too. It reflects radiant heat from warmer surfaces to cooler surfaces, helping to cool all surfaces in the living space more evenly.
@@EricPeelMusic Balancing the heat in the room will have a fairly negligible effect on efficiency. It may improve comfort but the cost of the radiant barrier might not be made back by the small increas in efficiency. In cold climates the impact is much greater. That's why I suggest only using inward facing radiant barriers in cold climates. However radiant barriers used properly on the exterior can reduce heat gain significantly in hot climates.
Last 3 homes I built for myself had insulated garage doors. Much quieter. Also specified extended life spring which is guaranteed for three times the up/down cycles.
We added a commercial exhaust fan in our 3 car garage. When you pull 2 or 3 vehicles into the garage in the summer time the temp rises well over 100 degrees. Even though the ceiling is insulated, it still raise the temp in the bonus room above the garage. The exhaust fan solved all these issues. We run the exhaust fan 24 hours a day all summer long and it works great. All garages should have exhaust fans.
Insulated doors are great 99.9% of the time. However, if you have heated garage and it is really cold out side the door can deform due to thermal dynamics. The outside metal shrinks and inside metal will expand (or not shrink), thus creating gap at the top as it bows inward. Outside temp zero farinhiet, inside 72F when i experienced this. I used an opposing squeeze camp and a board to push the top and close the gap. I have not figured out a more permanent solution as of yet. Just thought I'd share this experince. Best to all.
Having had heated/cooled 4 car garages in my prior homes in Minneapolis-St Paul, Columbus OH, Carmel Indiana, DFW TX, and now NW Arkansas, I’ve never experienced winter temps in said garages in which the heater produced heated space over mid-60 temps (insulated garage walls, windows, utility doors and garage doors)
Tip from a garage door pro. If you want two cars to fit in a house you are building 16' wide doors suck. There is next to no room to open your doors and move between the vehicles.
18' wide is far better, but two 9' wide doors is best. You open smaller doors to the elements and you spread the wear and tear out across two doors.
Also, jack shaft motors are nothing but a headache on a door with traditional tracks. They are meant for high lift tracks. It even states this clearly in the manual, but most door guys are hacks. Make sure they pitch your tracks downhill on the door or you will constantly throw cables off the door as your torsion shaft begins to warp after years of being turned from one side.
Traditional motor is far better for your setup.
The clopay insulated doors are excellent. I like them. In Miami they also carry the hurricane wind rating, which is crucial since they can get very heavy with both the insulation and wind ratings. Cheers!
These are the ones we have. They are great!!!
We live in Southern Az. My garage is 26x22 with 9ft ceiling fully insulated. It stays nice and comfortable. We have a Wayne Dalton 8300 door. It was 23° this morning and it was 69° in the garage. No heating or cool installed. I like the threma track and might have to look into getting them. Thanks for your show.
Here's a thought if you're concerned about garage air into the house. For the _CEILING_ of the garage (on your remodel there's no storage space) use some of the ZIP sheathing+drywall. That should prevent any air-leaks between the garage and the boys bedroom(s).
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I don't know what that "smart" exhaust fan system costs, but I installed an exhaust fan (16" designed for a barn) in _MY_ garage for undr $100.00 (discounting labor since I did it myself). Adding a motion sensing controller to the circuit powering that fan shouldn't cost more than another $50.00.
Makes no difference how many layers you add - carbon monoxide can diffuse through most materials if given the right concentration and time. Garage requirements under living spaces is for fire protection. If Dad decides to smoke a tailpipe in the garage, then son may be taking a dirt nap as well, regardless of 'tight' precautions!
Hey Matt thanks for the info on S Tracks. I am a big Garage guy. I have epoxied the floor, installed base molding and the best thing is the Liftmaster 8500 jack shaft opener with the MyQ interface. You should consider the 8500 for your house especially for applications where there is living space above the garage. This is a much quieter install.
Keep up the good work.
Matt, when you install the horizontal track, on the new house, try using follow the roofline incline track. Combined with the 8500 Chamberlain side mount operator, this will completely open up the ceiling space .
Central NY here. Insulated door made a huge difference in temperature and comfort verses old wooden garage door with glass windows. Still not sealed perfectly, but that's why I'm watching this video!
'figure out how to get the garage door down'... you grab the handle for the manual disconnect and lower the door. Then re-engage it and fix it later at a more convenient time.
I know, it literally take 5 seconds to pull the handle especially on small doors.
....been doin that for years. PLASTIC GEARS in the electric door opener.....???/ who woulda thunk......more modern junk......goto hell, you manufacturers...plastic.......our planet is drowning in that shit...
That’s what I was thinking! I’m 66, single and female, and I would never have called anyone because of that!
No need to disconnect the door. Just hold the button down to override the puppy saver sensor. It's a standard feature.
@@tomvanalst8533 Good point
Yes, I've installed insulation to each panels on my entire garage door and it keeps it cool in the summer and warm in the winter! I also did half insulated every windows throughout my house with the same 2" styrofoam with the silver on the other side and it saves us a lot during winter and summer months. Living in Vegas it only make sense to do it! We rarely turn on the heat or air conditioning except when it gets way too hot like 100 and up! Makes a huge difference in our bills.
I stuff foam pipe insulation inside the bottom seal on my garage door. Makes a better seal from the added rigidity and compression.
Great idea
have done that a few times.
Back in 1987/88 my custom built over sized heated garage became my home cabinet/fabrication shop. To reduce noise transmission, and for thermal stability I installed Double Metal garage door sections with 11/2"foam cores inside. Outside you could hear a bit of the router noise, but none of the compressor, table saw, duct collection, chop saw etc. sounds. I called it my shop. My peers all called it the operating room. Yes, the doors and seals are very important. cheers.
Around Chicago an insulated garage door is a must if plan on spending more than a few seconds in your garage in the winter.
Try Manitoba
Wimp
@Matt Risinger Hello. Thanks for the video. Looks like I am a few years late to reply. Just saw this video. Anyway I just moved into my Newley built home back in September 2023. We since had the brand new basic metal single panel 2 car garage door removed and replaced with the same looking door but it’s insulated. It’s metal on both sides. The nice thing it did was provided better sound proofing. We also removed our ceiling mounted garage door motor and went with a side mount jack opener. Also very nice. The bedroom above the garage area no longer has to has to hear the loud chain and loud door noises. The heavier door does not rattle all over inside the tracks.
What we did see that was a negative. Within a couple days after the install. When we went into the garage and opened the door. We saw water dripping from the inside of the door. When we went to close the door water was squirting from all around the window panels. Yes we have windows across the top of the door all the way across. Anyway we were shocked about this. When we looked at our humidity and temp gauge in the garage. The humidity was around 80%. Since we have a more sealed in garage door. The moisture was building up significantly in the garage. This went away with the use of a dehumidifier. We do not have a MiniSplit in our garage. This water and humidity build up went away. We are now down around 40. Of course the days it rains is when the dehumidifier runs. Since it’s winter the cold air sucks moisture out or dries things out. So the dehumidifier barely runs. The reason this all happened is because the air gets trapped more inside the garage. What will really be hard is come summer. When the humidity will always be high. We live in South Carolina where it’s humid.
We do have some small openings around the bottom of the door where the outside brick and the door trim meet. So that lets air or humidity into the garage. We do have a large ceiling fan on the ceiling in the garage. We have no idea what we will experience come summer. Hopefully we don’t find that the heat will also get trapped inside the garage now that we have an insulated door. We totally didn’t think this part out or expect this. We for sure will need to run a dehumidifier to control the humidity. We just hope that we can also somehow keep the heat from building up or being worse than it would have been with a basic metal non insulated door. I know that many of you would say install a MiniSplit. But we just do not want to have to do that.
I like the idea of a camera automatically filming the delivery guy instead of letting them into your house for delivery. But it would be much safer to build or buy a separate storage box on the side of the house they can access instead. Because you’re still giving a stranger a good look inside your home.
Right. That's like the problem we had when I was growing up on the South Side of Chicago. The garbage men passed through the alleys, "casing the joint" and their "associates" showed up later to relieve us of our stuff or, worse, report zoning violations to the authorities.
Thank you. I have a CHI insulated door and its been great, seals very tight and well insulated. Mine were around an R-14 and I think they go to an R-17 or higher. It was a big upgrade from a wooden garage door.
You will love the side mount Liftmasters with automatic dead bolt locks. very quiet and totally secure with the dead bolt locking
After installing one on a new garage addition door for clearance, I removed a perfectly functional overhead drive system on the other overhead door, junked it, and replaced with another Liftmaster opener. Yes, they're that much better than the outdate gear/chain overhead openers.
I love the concept of the adhesive weatherstrips on the sides of the doors. I will have to look into installing them on my own garage doors. The tracks are a cool concept also, but if you have quality HD adjustable tracks and hardware like the ones which came with our doors you don't need anything better. Heavy gauge tracks & hardware are a must in order to have tight fitting weatherproof doors.
In 2011 we added a 28'X48' 2 car garage-shop to our home. Like you I wanted an area I can work in comfortably. The walls are 2X6 with blown in cellulose insulation & 16" of cellulose blown in the attic, so it is very well insulated & vented with ridge vent. We have a 36" Therma-Tru Fibergass walk door at both ends of the garage & went with (2) 8'X10' Ideal garage doors with windows at the top of them. They have full 2 inch "Intellicore" polyurethane insulation with an 18.4 R value & heavy gauge steel construction with lifetime paint warranty. Something I did to ensure a better seal at the bottom of the doors was to shove a 10' length of Styrofoam tubing (used to insulate copper water lines) inside the bottom weatherstrip. Both doors are extremely weather tight, water, & bug proof. Ideal is a division of Clopay & are made in America.
Another weather stripping system you may want to check out is call Snirt Stopper. Their system looks amazing. www.stopthesnirt.com/
Highly recommend the side Mount garage door opener! Clean install and frees up a ton of space overhead. I used the Liftmaster 8500 but I’m sure there are others that might be better.
I’m a garage door tech in the west texas area and our company uses CHI Doors with Liftmaster operators and I would highly recommend the CHI insulated doors. They’re great!
The last thing any car needs is a warm humid environment. No issue with any of your proposals but keep the humidity under control as low corrosion levels are one big advantage of a drafty garage.
I live in the PNW, switched to an insulated door about 10 years ago. It made what I consider a significant savings in my winter heating bill. For your existing door go to the home center and get foam board and use that to insulate your door.
I cut a 2-3" deep channel along the threshold for my door to sit down into. No more wind, no more leaves, no more bugs!
I need to do the same. How did the concrete look after you finished it? I have to figure out a way to make it not look like a hack job.
What about rain/water buildup? Also as your springs relax over time the door will sit lower and lower and likely to have the top of the door slip under the header and create a huge problem. There’s a product called “STORMSHIELD” you could use one on the outside and another on the inside of the door creating a damn but not interesting with the doors functioning.
@@oknave327 I eventually rented a gas powered cutter for about $150 for 4 hours; the cut looks fine but I will finish it on both sides with 2" aluminum angle along the edges and it looks bitchin gotta say.
@@greatdoorsandgates4991 good question about the water and something that was on my mind; the slab is divided right down the middle all the way to the street so I just widened it a little where it intersects with my channel. Water won't get into the garage even if the 'drain' gets clogged because the garage floor was poured about an inch above the threshold and the driveway slopes down enough too.
As for the springs those are adjustable but I replaced the whole door with a coil-up.
Thanks for the follow up
Insulated door? YES. Worth it. I'm in Maine. It gets really cold here for four months and I chose the insulated door for the garage because it's heated by in-floor radiant. I like the extra weather stripping ideas in this video!
As soon as I watched this video, I ordered the Genie battery backup for my garage door. No more worrying about the power going out. Looking at the ThermoTraks now ...
Haha! "A couple staples later..." I really like the Chamberlin MyQ with the belt drive. Same comment as IG (LumberJohn), I used the R-6.5 Clopay garage door a few years ago. It has been great, and it was the best mix between cost and insulation, and it kills a lot of road noise.
A big thing that I hate with most garages is not having a lot of extra space on either sides. I know you had limits with your new one keeping the slab, but I know if I build anything new it will have 4-5ft at least on both sides for storage shelves.
This is nice if you have the land, but in a lot of suburban areas houses are built with a footprint that takes up the maximum allowed amount of the lot. So, in some cases you would need to take away from the living area to do this.
Yup. I designed mine to have a workbenches down both sides and still pull in and open doors without hitting.
For sure. I have pallet racking down both sides of my garage for storage and can still open doors.
Just only put 1 car in the so called 2 car garages and you have plenty of room. They really aren't' big enough for 2 cars anyway tbh.
@@darienredsox1878 So be it!
Green hinge garage door system works great as well. Has a spring on the hinge that pushes door against the weather stripping. Installed on our door in Missouri. Great product
My family's homes have had problems with rats and other pest creatures coming in for a long time. (During my college years, there was some kinda animal(s) living in our attic, and I'd wake up, sometimes in the morning, sometimes late at night to sounds that sounded like something the size of a cat scrambling around up there or in the walls. And this went on for years until I started having nightmares about such animals coming through our walls. We also had pigeons that roosted outside the master bathroom window.)
Now that I'm in charge of remodeling my family's homes, animal exclusion is something I'm paranoid about and have done more than a reasonable amount of research on. Screens, hardware cloth mesh, steel/copper wools impregnated with foams or elastomeric stretch fillers, bird spikes, you name it.
Current product I'm interested in are Xcluder's fill fabrics and door bottoms. They have heavy-duty steel wool, more abrasive than a brillo scouring pad, made of stainless steel, stuffed into equally heavy-duty rubber, in door bottoms (regular and garage). They also have those automatic door bottoms, and they make commercial products as well. Most of their product line is focused on sealing rodentproof gaps that usually are targets for weatherproofing. Looking at these for closing and sealing all the various door gaps, particularly on our garage and side doors.
Check out their stuff:
buyxcluder.com/solutions/residential.html
Those PRODUCTS WORK! From a PRO!!
Garage door sensor install:
I like how your installer coiled the low voltage cable into a springlike configuration, it keeps it neat and allows the slack one need for service. This is an old technique used by the phone company in the early days. (6:05)
We have insulated garage doors from the mfr, there is a huge difference in thermal control. They are like R11. We live in Florida.
R11?? I find that hard to believe. The best insulators like polyiso are R5 per inch so that door would need to be 2 inches thick AND have a solution for the seams and joints.
@@mv80401 standard sandwich doors are rated 10+ and if you have big bucks ..Haus doors go 18+
@@skidmoro9642 -- thanks, I checked it out and the good stuff exists indeed (just rarely comes standard)
@@mv80401 Correction it’s R20. It’s Coplay’s intelicore www.clopaydoor.com/residential/buyingguide/intellicore.
@@allent555 Wow they look like really nice doors for sure and would love one that's insulated as that. I'm having trouble believing their claims though, R10/inch is WAY higher than other known foam core insulations. R10/inch is up there with aerogel so unless they're doing something else that's getting those R-values, I'm somewhat dubious of those claims and if they're true, then they need to get into whole home insulation with whatever they're using as you could potentially get R60 insulation on a 6" stud or R80 on an 8" stud!
Hey Matt. I'm in the Atlanta market and had occasion to replace my garage doors a while back. I went with insulated and it makes a HUGE difference. It is usually 20-30 degrees warmer in the garage than outside on even the coldest days. Also, when I replaced the bottom seal, I inserted two full lengths of 1/2" back rod to prevent the seal from getting completely smashed. I presume you are supposed to set the limiter so it doesn't do that, but I am only able to seal out daylight (air) when I really run it down hard. Never had any issue with the standard weather seal on the sides. Thank for the great videos.
I'm in Atlanta Metro area as well - which brand doors did you have installed?
On an HVAC podcast I listen to they just did the whole episode on CO. They specifically talked about extra, especially garage type, intake or exhaust fans. In short, the tighter the house, the more you should be concerned with changing the, esp. negative, pressure balance. They wound up their story by saying your equipment and locations should be actually-tested in-use with a CO tester and monitoring installed. He said a lot of the assumptions, even many that are taught, may or may not stand up to testing in specific applications. CO is odorless, colorless, tasteless, and must be tested tomdetect. You may, MAY, smell and notice aldehydes as byproducts of combustion, but that's a maybe and you cannot depend on it!
I live in South Florida and a insulated garage door was a must. A side benefit, it added a whole level of quiet both from the out side but the sound of the door closing is much more quiet
Just about any of the major door manufacturers make a 2: insulated "sandwich" door which is a 2" polystyrene (base models) or olyurethane (high end) sandwiched between a steel outside and a steel inside, Higher end have thermal breaks between front and back.
I have 25 years in the industry and have installed many brands, Clopay is my personal favorite.
I work at Clopay, appreciate the positive feedback.
I just came for the comment roast session 😂
The scheduled garage door close at night is great! Its saved me from leaving my garage door open over night several times. Also really like the quietness of the belt driven door openers versus the chain drive openers.
My neighbor tells me if I leave my garage door open.
So worth it. Trying to seal up garage doors with large door stripping for commercial usage is a fight and never as good as it should be. I’m I. The northeast and this video just got saved
Go direct drive on the new garage with a high lift track for the sloped ceiling. You will love it!
I was also going to recommend follow the slope as long as that beam is far enough back.
Yep - I have this and it is awesome.
I heard a Matt Risinger line in this episode which epitomizes why us fans like Matt and is probably true for most of us. The quote is "Let me know, I'm curious". Matt, thanks for what you do to satisfy our curiosity.
TH-camrs get paid on how many comments are attached to the video. That’s why EVERY TH-camr says that same line
Would love a vid on the updates you made to your current house and how they’re holding up 15 years later.
I believe that has already been done.
Yeah, he did a video a few months back reviewing the remodel and things he would and wouldn't do again.
The lift master with the camera and the my IQ app is awesome for a garage door opener and thank you for showing the upgrades on the weatherstripping for the garage you couldn’t of made this video any sooner because I was just working that issue today thank you again Matt
I always install exhaust fans in garages in our new builds. Removing fumes is one benefit, but here in the PNW especially, pulling into the garage with a rain-soaked car with a warm engine is a recipe for disaster (mold) since all new builds are drywall finish inside. If you want a climate controlled garage, get a make up air intake with powered damper to open when the exhaust fan runs.
Im a door installer in PA and Insulated is popular here, insulated also is much quieter when in motion and helps tremendously with heat and a/c some are rated as high as 18+ R value. And i know your mr. Insulation so i think on the new house you'd be happy and impressed with the quality. I can recommend 2 really good manufacturers I know that one of them has distributions out you way also battery back up will only run 6-8 full cycles max (that one of the tests we have ran to give ppl a more realistic amount)
You forgot to mention that with an "airtight" garage you got to have a supply of fresh air, othervise the exhaust fan will not exhaust anything.
He showed the intake on the exhaust fan
@@jonathanzappala Yes your right.
That is an outlet, not an intake as Matt says. I too am curious how you could handle makeup air.
Don't you too, have makeup air to your garage? - for my door we have a "controlled gap" at the edges. It helps to mitigate CO toxicity in a "sensorless system". (jk)
kadmow We have that same exact system, only our make up air is filtered by arachnid silk before it enters the garage. But I don’t think Matt has that system, so he may need a separate source for make up air. 🤔
Just got rid of old leaky wood and Masonite "style and rail" doors, and installed insulated double sided metal doors w low e glass and much better seals on all 4 sides - all I can say is wow - much quieter operations and dampened outdoor noises too, but the big bonus is more comfortable temperature in my unheated garage - when it was 39 degrees out it was 69 degrees in - before it would only have been about 8-10 degrees warmer than outside.
What I learned today: make TH-cam videos and companies will send you free stuff...
I’ve been waiting 2 years for the freebies to roll in!😂
Only if you have enough subscribers and view count!
@@dennispope8160 Which Matt definitely has!
@@MyDIYAdventures Not really - if you listen, he often says HE reaches out them (and I'm sure brags about his channel). IF he was a top channel THEY would be reaching out to him.
@@donabele1243 name me one better "Building Science" channel...I'll wait.
I ran a 3/8" rubber weather strip on the door to sandwich the exterior trim weather strip that has worked really for the past few years . I also self leveled the concrete apron that doors sit on to give the gasket a smooth level surface to seal against . At high noon I have no light shining through anywhere with the doors shut.
Well we just put foam boards in the door and we have an ac split, easily gets colder than inside the house now down here in Florida. (we set it to about 72 F when we are working hard in there)
When I add a new bottom seal rubber I take a foam tube that would go around a 3/4" water pipe to stop freezing or dripping. then cut it in half length wise making it a semi circle. I then taped enough strips together to go the length of the door, and pulled it through the bottom rubber bottom tube. This way when the door comes to rest on the concrete or floor gasket it will seal tight and not collapse. I've used that on several doors and it works great.
Thx creative genius 👍
My garage door was not insulated so I added 1.5" Styrofoam sheets cut to fit inside the garage pannels. It helped a lot and made about a 10 degree difference in the garage temperature.
Which glue did you use?
@@Roxtarring Loctite
PL 300 10 fl. oz. Foamboard Adhesive, but there are plenty of other ones out there that are made for Foamboard.
Live just south of Chicago and installed an insulated door. Mine came from Sears they had the highest Rvalue door at 19.5 that was 7 years ago. with new insulation in the walls and ceiling the garage rarely dips below 35 during our deep freeze -40F it got to 26F
If the manufacturers are giving you product and you’re installing and talking about the product on your show, it is most definitely a paid advertisement 🙄🤣
It's not paid unless they sent him a check. Free goods, while they do have value, isn't money.
Who cares anyway?
The products given to Matt are mostly samples (sometimes given to any who ask), likely incomplete, in that samples are not the complete kit adequate for instillation. Who profits here are the suppliers of these products and Matt's viewers. But you are ok -- being rational and fair is something we all struggle with.
I appreciate the disclosure and don’t believe that Matt would risk his reputation by recommending a crappy product just because he received a free sample worth a couple hundred bucks😊
You are completely right, I'm 100% sure this video is in violation of FTC guidelines. Receiving anything for free in exchange for an endorsement makes it a sponsored video. The only way this video would not be sponsored is if he had NOT mentioned the name of the product or company that makes the said product
@@mjt1517 The Federal Trade Commission cares, that's who. All free goods received count as sponsorship, not just cash. He has actually broken the FTC's law in this video, maybe other vids too, that could get him in serious legal trouble if people took the time to report him to the FTC.
I've used the Wayne Dalton insulated doors before. One thing I notice with more air tight homes, is when you open the house to garage door, the garage door will move. So that upgraded garage door track looks like it would come in handy.
If I didn't have to spend so much to match your upgrades, I would really love this video.
Good job and good ideas.
Exactly
I live where it is 110-115 in the summer here in Northern California. I have an insulated garage door. It faces west so it gets that hot afternoon sun. It makes a world of difference. California requires a battery back up on replacing because of Wild fires.
I live in the north east where it gets very cold. With two garage door I got the best door insulation for both door. The garage never gets cold might get to 60 degrees. Outside is below 20 and the garage is never that cold. In the summer it will stay cool on hot days.
I also use the my q app for the doors and works very well. Great videos keep up the good job.
WAIT..... you have a non insulated garage door? I surely would have never guessed that
Haha you know the old saying, “the cobbler's children have no shoes”
In the house when he bought it...
He lives in TX, no? It doesn't get cold there..
Matt, new bottom door seals are great, but they will crush fairly quickly and you will have leaks again. A good solution is to slide some 3/4” foam backer rod into the new door seal while you’re installing. It makes a very tight seal especially if the floor has inconsistencies.
Clopay makes a great insulated door. I installed 2 in my new house in MN in 2016 and have had no complaints.
The garage ventilator and the mini-split seem like a strange combo. When you’re working in the garage, what prevents you from walking past the ventilator, triggering the motion sensor, and then blowing all your conditioned air right out of the garage?
I agree- unless it’s on like a pseudo holifax sensor based on the track (only movement of the door counts) You could have some false vents.
Maybe he could tie it to the door opener activating instead? Still gonna false vent when the kids take their bikes out, but short of gps triggered activation on a cell phone in the car it’s probably as good as it gets.
Depending on vehicle (he mentions suburban) you could either place the sensor at a height where its above people's heads but below the roof line of the vehicle. or you could place it facing the tracks so it activates whenever the door opens or closes.
Though a better system would be an air quality sensor that would exhaust when air quality past a certain point, as well as having an override switch so you could turn it on before you started painting or something.
Best system would be to have one of those heat exchanger things (cant remember the name) that brings in a constant supply of fresh air, and exhausts stale air that mat loves for the inside. Just a smaller scale one dedicated for the garage, which could be set on a timer or just constantly run at a low flow rate. which would provide not only an exhaust but a filtered intake. Though that would likely be a much more expensive venture. One could fairly easily design an all in one type small HVAC unit for a garage that had such a system built in, thus all the things could be controlled independently of the main house from temperature and humidity, to ventilation to maximize either comfort or whatever. Though at that point you're probably better off just having a large detached garage.
It costs $ but they do make co2 sensors when it detects a change in comparison levels it kicks on
Unless you are doing somthing stupid like run a vehicle with the doors closed, there is no need for ventilation.
@@Matt-mq1ep For health reasons you're right, though for QOL reasons I would disagree. Especially if you spend significant time in your garage.
Matt - you’d asked for comments about insulated doors. We live in northwestern NJ, 1100’ above sea level with the garage on the western end of the house (so it gets the brunt of the prevailing winter winds). We installed insulated and weatherstripped doors, and insulated walls when the home was built. I can keep a jug of distilled water in the garage all winter and know it will never freeze. Part of that is obviously heat loss from the house, but better to hold onto that heat than to lose it completely... a easy to heat with kerosene for the occasional winter garage work day.
I just installed the side mount Chamberlain. You'll love how quiet it is, and how much space overhead it saves.
I have a liftmaster that mounts on the shaft also. A much cleaner install without that crap over the door.
@@Chris_at_Home Plus the install is incredibly simple. I am on 1 year with mine with battery backup and wifi...love it and the app for remote control and monitoring. Worth the extra cost. Upgraded from a Wayne Dalton I-drive.
I too have the Liftmaster branded version w/battery backup. Smooth & quiet operation. No matter the label, they’re both owned by CGI( Chamerlain Group INC).
I just installed the same, replacing 25 year old opener. So much nicer and super quiet.
GO BUY THE GENIE for the TOP TIER JACKSHAFT sure to outlast the chamberlain 12v junk! Genies motor doesn’t have that POS cable tension monitor and is SAFER! Way more power and their transmission WONT WEAR OUT like the Liftmaster. Genie 24VDC NO CABLE TENSION, Liftmaster/Chamberlain 12vdc junk
I upgraded to a battery backup when I replaced my overhead garage door and opener. It's paid for itself several times already. We chose To replace the door with a foam insulated, double thickness steel door with insulating glass lites. Now, even without heat, our garage never gets below freezing in the harshest of Indiana winters.
I love my insulated door. Much quieter and warmer in the winter.
ABSOLUTELY ! I PURCHASED A CMI DOOR WITH 18 R VALUE.
On my last house I replaced the double solid garage door with an aluminum clad insulated roll up door. I loved it. I now have a large garage with four single doors. I'm replacing all of them with insulated roll up. I also want to put one side mount motor on a door.
I put a 2” insulated garage door on my detached garage because I can’t stand the sound of cheap doors.
Can you tell what brand you use please?
@@peterchaploutskiy2555 C.H.I Garage door
@@HOBrian2003 Second the CHI Doors. I have a model 5600 carriage house overlay door from them. It has foamed-in-place polyurethane insulation (R-17.5). I like the foamed-in-place better than preformed foam inserts because it adheres to the steel skins and stiffens the door appreciably. Whatever brand Matt gets, he should go for the expanding foam insulation for structural and thermal performance.
(I was/am sincerely hoping the "can't stand the sound of cheap doors" was a huge troll, rather than real pretension.) ha ha ha...
@@brianstone3972 I would agree 100%! You’re gonna pay for it, but well worth the investment.
My parents fiberglass garage door faced due east and the garage would be like an oven by 10:00 am. They replaced the standard door with an insulated door offered by a garage door company...nothing upgraded to the insulation, but they did get the model with windows. What a difference! It was really nice because their laundry was in the garage and it made it much more comfortable than baking hot, although the garage would still always be at the temperature and humidity of the outside air once the door was opened for a car. The natural light was nice, too.
I went with the green hinge system that pretty much does what those tracks do but by using springs on the hinges that push them tight.
Sounds like an extra point of failure compared to these tracks. The tracks won't wear over time but the springs will. Either way I'm sure they're both great products
I have the green hinge system as well, no issues for past 2 years and seals well.
Yah, LiftMaster makes a nice opener. My neighbor recently replaced his 'hung in the center, ugly as sin' openers with new LiftMaster units that are mounted high on the wall next to the door. Now he has a clear expanse of ceiling.
Matt. Remember that your door will close even if you are having trouble with the beam sensors or pressure sensor by simply pushing and holding down the button on the wall. Of course you'll need to fix the issue later but it might save you a trip home to rescue your wife.
Reminds me of the Aggie who locked his family and keys in the car and had to call the cops to get his family out.
I just replaced the drive belt on my Chamberlain unit. The $84 belt had a lifetime warranty! They shipped it at no charge. I watched the TH-cam video - done!
With all the smart solutions I would opt for a sidewinder garage opener versus an overhead one. Especially with bedrooms over the garage you want a silent opener.
Matt talked about using one in his new house. It looks like his old house has side mounted springs so one of these would not work.
@@darienredsox1878 Clopay has a conversion kit avail. Through Home Depot. Easy installation to remove old side springs and mount torsion bar.