Yeah, I'm glad you like it. The whole thing is a bit overkill and I don't encourage people to do all of this, so just skip to the part you're interested in.
@@RestorationForBeginners no it isn’t! Always better to provide more information, than not enough. Besides the comparison was excellent. See my other comment in above thread. Keep up the excellent content, following 😎
@@RestorationForBeginners What I wanted to know was not the garage door heat difference but the overall garage temperature. Do you recall how much the entire garage temperature went down by?
Just get foil faced rigid insulation and cut to fit. that way radiant barrier is already on foam insulation. comes in 3/4", 1", or thicker depending on your door
I agree. The foil faced foam board is typically made out of polyisocyanurate foam which is the best foam you can buy for R value (6.5/inch). It is closed cell and water/vapor proof. You can buy it at any lumber yard and, because it cuts so well (easily), you can buy a thicker board and cut down the edges to fit in the door, thereby giving you more insulation in the door. It usually costs close to the same as regular extruded polystyrene foam board like blue "Dow" board or the pink "Owens Corning" board.
@@fult45 So because you MIGHT have to adjust spring tension, you say it's not a good suggestion. Well my suggestion it you adjust the spring tension and problem solved. That's why they make it ADJUSTABLE. DUH!
@@AztecWarrior69_69 Take it easy there keyboard warrior. Glad you could add your valuable input. Spring adjustment is simple. Relax. Take a deep breath.
For anyone doing this: You're much better off using 1" to 1.5" RMax polyisocyanurate foam with the metal foil on both sides. It's more expensive than EPS foam but has double the R-value. And in such a small depth of a 1.5" wall you will really need it if you expect it to really help. That and having a foil layer up against the door's sheet metal will greatly GREATLY aid in reflecting heat or cold back out while the inside foil layer does the same. Using white EPS foam and then having to add an additional layer of bubble foil (to inside only) will still only give ~1/2 the R value and again, if anything, the foil should go inside against the door's sheet metal for optimal heat reflection. If I was using EPS then I would at very minimum buy a roll of attic foil (it's ~2mm thick) as install that first. But again, the actual metal foil on RMax thermasheath-3 is superior to using raw EPS. As they say... you pay for what you get.
Dude, you are an absolute perfectionist! Watching you cutting the pieces off the masking tape to make everything look neat is so satisfying. Thank you for such a detailed video. This will help me with my garage door project.
You can buy Rigid Insulation foam boards that are essentially the same thing as this Garage Insulation kit, just at a fraction of the cost. Especially if you're going to be cutting to size anyway.
Would love to get an update to see how it's doing for colder months. I like working in garage in the winter but man does it get cold. Thank you. PS really enjoy how meticulous you are
Idea, instead of using yellow tape on the top window panels,you should use double sided velcro stripes; You can take off any of the top window panels in the day, so you can see on the outside .
Your attention to detail is astonishing. You even correct your grammar in your editing. 😂 That’s worth admiration and praise. Both the insulation job and video production are of very high quality. Thank you.
R tech 1.5” foil backed foam insulation panels at HD fit most garage door depths, cuts with a circular saw, table saw, or 3 old school hand saw. Messy but huge money saver. 3 car garage 4 panels high takes about 3 hours.
Sorry I couldn't finish watching this. dude you swing that camera around way too much. I felt like I was on a fun house ride. I am sure your video is very informative but the motion was horrible.
Hey guys, I felt like I needed to make a revision here. I don't suggest using masking tape to hold up the Reflectix. It looks like it's coming off in some places that I didn't take care to press it down really well. More of an annoyance than a big issue, but if you're doing this, go ahead and use the foil tape.
Yeah I expected that. The aluminum tape would definitely do the job. It's made for HVAC use and will hold up. You're right about it being a PITA to remove but it will stick to wood, plastic, steel, glad, bare concrete, people, etc. reliably. Your 2 layer idea definitely could work better with an air gap between the layers. The first year on the reflectix package illustrates this. There were two air gaps there and just the reflectix on the inside of both layers and you get an R-value of 21 where as you only get an R-value of 3 if you put it directly on the door. Granted in the pic the 2 layers may have been OSB which adds an R-value (s) to the mix where the metal door just transmits heat like a big heat sink. Physics is fun 😉
I've watched several videos on the process of insulating a garage door. This was by far the most informative! I was torn between the two techniques and I really appreciate that you showed the difference between the single and double layers. This was very helpful and I really appreciate you putting this video together!
I'd suggest after cutting reflective panels to size, and double check fit, use 3M Super 77 spray adhesive. This will insure the panels stay put, and glue to the foam. You won't need the tape, but can carefully install to seal the edges if you like.
Sorry to tell you this, but you because you installed it all wrong you lowered the performance of every product you used. Unfortunately, many people will watch this video and do what you did because you think you over killed it. But, the only reason you'll feel a difference is because you did "something". You'd have the same, if not better, performance using either product by itself, or throwing it all out and starting over. I suggest buying sheets of polyisocyanurate rigid foam (closed cell foam vs the open cell EPS you're using) and cutting each to size. It has a higher R-Value and costs considerably less than the "dedicated" garage door product you bought. They also usually come with a radiant barrier sheet on one side, eliminating the need for two products. R-Values measure the rate at which absorbed heat is transferred through a material. The actual R-Value of the Radiant Barrier is 1 or less than one, because that's not why/how they work. They don't slow the rate of heat transfer, they block or reflect the heat from ever being absorbed in the first place. It's not illegal to mislead the public in America, so they put R-Values because 99% of people won't question it. Radiant barriers also have a low emittance of heat. In other words, any heat they do absorb isn't let go of. Anyway, way too much to go into this comment in detail, but you could've saved a lot of time and money by just using the polyiso foam I mentioned above. I am interested in an update like the others. I wish I thought of getting a temp monitor before and after when I did my garage, but I wasn't trying to prove to anyone the difference when I did it. Maybe next time. I hope I didn't sound like a dick, not my intention, I just want people to understand that this isn't the way to do it, it's the way to make these companies more money and that's it.
@@wax-ecstatic Good question. I believe for the radiant barrier aspect to work, you need to leave at least a small air gap between the shiny side and the garage door. I'm about to pick up the same material (polyiso) and build an attic door cover.
To get privacy in the evening, you’ll need to install external lights above the filmed windows that are bright enough to reflect off the windows, or have lights indirectly/directly pointing at your windows. You’ll need to play with placement to make it work correctly.
I was thinking the same thing. Perhaps you could switch it on one door and get a real comparison. The refletex against the metal first should theoretically make a difference
@@fdbg39 You don't want the reflectix against the door. You want an air gap between the two. It would have probably worked better if he simply skipped the foam and attached the reflectix to the frame, leaving that space as an air gap.
Your doors are 3 sections high because they are "Carriage House" doors. Most come this way to achieve that large top window. Also, you added weight to the door. The doors will eventually need a different spring to balance properly and give you it's expected cycle life. I know for a fact those Amarr doors don't run that smooth to begin with, be careful running it manually
I installed styrofoam insulation on my garage door and when I needed service on the spring, the technician said the weight of the insulation is enough to affect the balance of the door and the spring tension needed. Maybe it’s B.S. but it’s something to consider.
You are right ! It's a B. S. !‼️ Garage door's Technician only want your $1000. for nothing ‼️ you don't have to adjust it , it weight is nothing ! Only thing I some garage door's motor will wear out in 20 to 40 years of service . And wore out motor has nothing to do with light- Foam or Reflection barrier , my Step- dad replaced his garage door motor to a better chair- drive of course it was a 1967 house had it replaced with Sear catalog Garage door's motor probably a half horse powers motor chains- drive in 1981. It heavy Duty 2 car garage door 1 large door. Wood and metal . But now everything is light weight in 2000 to 2021 and better motor .
the radiant barrier needs to be next to the outside surface, this will ensure the radiant barrier is doing its job the way it was designed, radiating heat out. the foil tape will not melt and is permanent, it is designed for heating ducts. The yellow tape is a temporary tape and over time will degrade and come off. looks good though
Now try taking it all down and install the reflectics first and then the foam. As long as there is a small gap between the foam, the reflectics, and the door, it should insulate better than the reflectics facing you on the interior of the foam.
@@RestorationForBeginners I basically did the same thing after watching your video. I did not get the foam boards. I have noticed a drastic change around ~ 10' less
@@RestorationForBeginners Hah! Now that's funny! I wonder if there is a tint product made that would NOT have the reverse effect at night. That would be good to know! I know one of my neighbors has all of the windows on the front of their home tinted. However I've never seen it at night when they have their lights on inside!
The IR thermometer measurement is a divergent spot, it's not measuring just the tiny laser dot, which is just for aiming purposes. Need to get much closer or use a larger target tape. For an accurate measurement you need a larger surface with an emissivity of something around 0.95. You can compare measurements with an actual thermometer to see if the tape being used as a target is suitable.
Good job putting the tape up so your laser infrared thermometer is not measuring the reflective surface, at the 20:09 mark. But the thermometer doesn't measure the point where your laser hits. It measures an approx 30degree cone, so when you stand back like that, you don't get an accurate measure. You need to hold the thermometer right up close to that tape.
Wow thank you for this video. I did the cellophane insulation like you and fortunately I did not have to use tape as I have a standard size garage door. It made an incredible temperature difference as mine is west facing and the summers get pretty hot in this part of California.
HOAs suck. We looked a long time to find a home that checked all of the boxes without HOA. They do have advantages such as no parking in the street and no idiots setting off fireworks in the street.
Nice job. However, for you’re own knowledge. The aluminum tape would have lasted longer than the masking tape. Often, that is the go to tape for HVAC work, when installing ductwork/ or working with the sheet metal housing of the indoor unit.
It's to protect you and others from the crazy neighbour who decides to paint his house Lakers Purple and Gold and put a stripper pole out front crapping on your property value. Although most of the time they end up having someone who goes out of their way to harrass you about every small thing.
Yeah, the very reason I will NEVER buy a home in a HOA ever again. I painted the sun faded front door back to it's original color and the HOA had a fit that I didn't use a color that was approved by them. It was the freaking original color. Sold that one about 6 months later. Too many people with power trips on HOA boards.
Doing both would make more of a difference if you installed it right. The reflective material blocks a lot of the heat, but only when it's on the other side of the insulation. The foam is a better insulation, but it's meant to be on the conditioned side of the Bubble wrap
Hi I would really like to ask if you’ve done the same temperature test in the winter to see the difference and compare the insulation to the summer coverage to see what is the greatest money saving value for more functionality for both summer and winter climates to both keep the garage cool in the summer and warm in the winter ?
I can attest to reflectix. I use it to insulate the hose of my portable air conditioners. 80 to 90 percent difference in temperature. Anybody that owns one know how much the hose radiates heat.
might want to change your springs. believe it or not just the addition of insulation will exceed the weight capacity of the springs. insulated doors have a bigger stronger spring compared to those used on just a metal door.
Caution! Adding weight to your garage door can put extra stress on the door opener. It can cause the motor/gear to fail prematurely. I work in garage door service and i see this all the time. If you do this contact your local garage door company and ask about an insulation kit. you may need to replace your spring to compensate for the wight of the insulation.
none of this will add enough weight to matter for any decent garage door opener or spring its only about 5lbs or less per door . You could have have that much weight from a lot of dirt sobers ! You dont have any idea whether or not the insulation caused the problems you saw except maybe adjusting a torsion spring slightly. I guess you would think it caused every failure you saw if every garage door you serviced was insulated. Or maybe you wouldn't even notice or think it caused any of them. You would at least first have to know what percentage had insulation in your area and how old the motors were and what HP rating and what brand and the record of each of those brands longevity and how many times a day on average each were operated etc !
@@teekay1785 with an insulated door you need a stronger IPPT spring. Any garage door installer knows this. That is why we carry so many different size springs. When I install a garage door that has insulation they give me a stronger spring for that door. You say it doesnt make a difference. The engineers beg to differ. A good way to test the door is feel it manually. It should lift very easily and pull down easily. It should not fall down. If the door doesnt stay in the open position then the door is too heavy.
@@againstallodds404 you will forget that you locked the lock and bend the door in two. Happens more than you would think. Those locks are great on a door you lift manually every day. If you have an automatic garage opener on the door I highly suggest not putting a lock on it.
@@HondaVTRF-cz6gn a torsion spring is tightened not changed and most anyone would know adding 3-5 lbs of styrofoam at moat could add that weight to pulling it up by hand and make essentially no significant difference to the motor and if you are lifting it with a motorized opener you wont care if it weighs 3 lbs more. Get real not IDEAL if you want to make a believable argument.
Your original garage door radiates heat. You should’ve put a 2 to 3 inch air gap from the the door just used the reflectix as a radiant barrier. If additional insulation was required, then add foam directly onto the reflectix. So door skin, air gap, reflectix, then foam.
I’ve just discovered your channel! Great OCD work on the insulation. You mentioned you wash the floor a lot to remove the dust. Consider painting the (what looks like concrete) with epoxy paint. I did mine on bare concrete and now has very little dust from the floor itself. I insulated my garage doors too but as I’m from the UK, the problem I had was to keep heat in when it’s 0 degrees C outside.
I think you put the radient barrier first to reduce infrared radiation, then the foam to slow down heat transfer for best results. But definitely good you covered the windows with that radiant barrier.
While living in Vegas this was a normal process. The problem was locating the foam. It had to be ordered in 4X8 foot sheets from the hardware store. I used a hot wire machine to cut it, I just happened to have the machine. The process is good for both heat and cold. Yes, it freezes in Vegas too, it even snows! The blue or pink foam is a closed-cell foam and even better but it costs more.
Living in Texas, I can appreciate your project. I would have used 2 layers as well. Do you have any thoughts about creating an air barrier around the edges of the garage doors? Bc I'm in a hot region I'm considering running a split-unit AC into my garage. I'll want to seal those gaps as best possible or perhaps run a curtain around the tracks.
I like your meticulous attention to detail and overkill. I'm a lot like this myself. Great job. I am interested to see the second video showing the temperature readings. Thanks for posting this. Cheers
Great video, Could you provide the temp drop of the top panels after you added the 2nd layer of reflictix? I have windows in my garage door and plan on doing something similar. Thanks!
I haven't checked after installing the second layer, but I'll try to include it in the update video in the next couple of weeks. Weather really hasn't been that cooperative!
Pretty sad that the HOA dictates your garage door color. How anyone can pay someone to tell them what they can and can't do to their own house is beyond me. I've beem considering doing this to my garage. It gets hot here in West tx.
I would fill all the little gaps as well between panels and windows for instance I noticed there was about a 20 to 50 mm gap, these can be the cause of huge changes as well as under the doors when the come down. You might look at that spray foam but its very messy.
I subscribed because your video is well put together, you explain things clearly and thoroughly and most importantly... YOUR MUSIC IS NOT ANNOYING AND IS PLEASANT!!!! Nice Vid!
You and others might want to reconsider using foil tape. I use foil tape for wrapping heating ducts. It does not break down as does "duct" tape. It would make a cleaner and neater job on your garage. Good video! Thanks.
This was great! Your process and detailed guidance is terrific. We were looking for a tip to insulate our garage for our freezer and to play ping pong. Thank you!
Restoration for Beginners, A common misconception is that EXPANDED polystyrene (the foam beads) is STYROFOAM. FOAM BEAD is not Styrofoam. STYROFOAM is actually the trademark name by Dow Chemical for EXTRUDED polystyrene, the SMOOTH CLOSED cell foam. When formed in sheets, EXTRUDED polystyrene will have two smooth faces and the cut edges show the cut cells. Normally everyone knows what you refer to when you say Styrofoam, even though its not correct.
Home depot & Lowe's have the foam boards with foil on one side for 10-15 bucks that are 4 foot by 8 foot and 3/4 inch thick. I have cut them to size next to the car in the parking lot ( a little away from the crowd of cars at the front where people want the good spots) that way they can stack inside the car in what ever size your use is. I have the panels made for east side facing windows in the morning of the house, west side windows in the afternoon. Put a drawer pull handle in the middle with fender washers to keep the bolt heads from pulling through to make it easy to pop it into the window sill. Oh yeah, use the chrome looking tape around the outside edge of those panels, otherwise the little Styrofoam balls will make a mess. I have found the chrome looking tape with duct tape stuff at the 99 cent only stores and works good.
Yeah - kudos for time stamps. I will look for other videos of yours. The overkill will come in handy when you heat your garage, as it should reflect heat back inside. 👍
Well…hmmm. Where to start… First, styrofoam is the least desirable foam for this application. Second, using 4x8 sheets of foam would allow you to cut panels to fit rather than cobbling pieces together. Third, I’m scratching my head over your concern about the material getting wet, and then using paper masking tape (which is going to dry out and curl up if you don’t wet it first. Lastly, complicating the process by adding foil back bubble wrap just made my head explode. Better foams come in full sheets with or without foil facing…
I was looking for a garage heating solution, and because I saw your 77-78 Z car body, I had to stop, now I'll watch the video to see if you have something else interesting. I'm scanning the vid for clues to the year, since the doors, hood and fenders are missing, it's tough. It appears that it may have been sporting the skinny 69-73 240 bumpers, (paint over masked bumpers and overspray shadow) though the recessed contours may be this illusion, though I can't see these contours. Fat rounded bumpers are late 75 built 76Zs. Square fat ones only 77-78. If interested, I still have a couple rear light housings from any 74-78, some AFM, maybe some brains and assorted badges I think. Last summer I finally let go of all the rubber parts to fully finish a 75-76 style. It took me about 5 years to locate them. When I sold my 76, all the extra dash's, wiring harnesses guages, perfect seats, a low mileage, start-able L28 and so much more, in the package. I paid $400 for that 76, barely running, and it came with a free 74 2+2 as a donor. I sold it fully restored, though no longer running for I think $2k I am a Z fan. My first was an 81ZX, which I drove for a few years and along the way I bought and restored a 76. During this 3-4 year period I had about 5. One became a race car and was killed within a week by the buyer in a street race, he wasn't killed just the car. All That was in Seattle where they were plentiful in the late 90s. Now in Wisconsin I no longer have my favorite, the 76. Sold it to a collector in Chicago.
I literally watched half your video, got to the foam boards and bounced to buy 2 kits at lowes. I could only find one roll of refletics. It is 104 here and our garage is hot as hells doorstep. I have hundreds of dollars of paint in there as well as completed paintings and my work area ( Idont call it a studio because I've only sold 4 paintings so far). Anywho, I debated buying the 4x8 foam boards and cutting them myself but couldn't fit them in my Kia Soul. Im going to use the yellow Frog masking tape for delicate surfaces. Thank you for the info.
This guy...... It's obvious he is really thorough with high IQ ....why is he wasting his smart asian powers on something like this???? Man just call a garage door company 🤦🤦🤦🤦 but thanks for the cool video no disrespect and cool Z car
I painted my brown garage doors white and it made a HUGE difference. My South Florida southern facing double aluminum garage door originally painted brown got so hot in midday, you couldn’t touch it. Too bad you can’t convince your HOS to allow a variance in the approved colors of your neighborhood’s garage doors.
Nice insulation job. I personally would have used aluminum tape to seal everything up because it is stronger and more appealing to the eye. For my garage I plan to use 2 layers of reflective bubble insulation and not use the foam material at all.
I may have missed it but did you get a temp on the glass (by putting tape on there) and see what the difference was? Any difference from that metal piece not insulated where you got upwards of 125 degrees, you think? I'd rather keep the natural sunlight coming through if I can.
I’m thinking of doing this, but would like reflective mirror from inside, so I can use it for my home gym. Would it affect the insulation effectiveness?
So I’ve been looking to insulate the doors of my garage and I clicked on this video, and hold the F_ck up for one minute? Is that a Z car I spy with my little eye? Guessing 240Z?
It's foolish to use regular masking tape, it will eventually fall off. Your far better option was to use the Aluminum tape. It will never fall off and matches the silver panels you installed.
You will never recover the money you spent on insulating those doors vs. energy savings. No matter how much or what insulation you add to a garage door, there is still the joints between the sections. Take an infra-red picture of the door at night, you will see the heat escape. Additionally like every other TH-cam video about installing insulation on a garage door, you didn't take into consideration the weight you added to the door. Garage doors are designed to be balance with the spring system. Adding weight without adjusting the torsion spring can lead to screw up the opener and door. If the door is new, adding insulation voids any warranty to the door.
I've been thinking of doing the same thing to my garage, but for a different reason. During the winter the basement gets very cold since it faces North and is in a constant shadow, especially on a cold night. The bare metal doors suck out any heat. Insulating them in the same manner as you have should make the basement garage workshop a better place to work. Thanks for the tips.
I have the Gila mirror the bubbles to hard to remove. Removing the clear stick guard it's hard to remove that's how 90% creases comes from. I was planning doing that panels as well thanks 👍
All the videos I've seen the garage doors have brackets on door panels...mine does not. Any suggestions? Note only bracket I have going across is under the window section. Thanks for the video
looks like a newer construction or at least newer doors. of course with how clean you keep things it could be older. curious how your door seals/weather stripping play into this? i am considering doing the same with my garage doors but i also have so weather stripping on the exterior to do also. dont you love being a home owner. ha ha ha. great video and very informative. Thanks for taking the time.
I live in new england so its pretty much the worst weather in america year round, and shitty fucking 1800s houses. Im gonna line my bedroom walls floor and ceiling with this shit.
![[UNCUT] “บอสณวัฒน์” ลากไส้!! ใครหนุนหลัง "แม่ตั๊ก ป๋าเบียร์" I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 30 ก.ย. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QlD7mU2KKRk/mqdefault.jpg)
Alright, the follow-up videos on the results, FAQ and 10-month update are posted. The links are in the description, enjoy!
Haven’t even watched your whole video yet. Had to give you props for the time stamps. Wish more you tubers thought like you
Yeah, I'm glad you like it. The whole thing is a bit overkill and I don't encourage people to do all of this, so just skip to the part you're interested in.
@@RestorationForBeginners no it isn’t! Always better to provide more information, than not enough. Besides the comparison was excellent.
See my other comment in above thread.
Keep up the excellent content, following 😎
Love your music choices, too. Thanks.
@@RestorationForBeginners
What I wanted to know was not the garage door heat difference but the overall garage temperature. Do you recall how much the entire garage temperature went down by?
Just get foil faced rigid insulation and cut to fit. that way radiant barrier is already on foam insulation. comes in 3/4", 1", or thicker depending on your door
R tech 1.5” fit most garage doors
I agree. The foil faced foam board is typically made out of polyisocyanurate foam which is the best foam you can buy for R value (6.5/inch). It is closed cell and water/vapor proof. You can buy it at any lumber yard and, because it cuts so well (easily), you can buy a thicker board and cut down the edges to fit in the door, thereby giving you more insulation in the door. It usually costs close to the same as regular extruded polystyrene foam board like blue "Dow" board or the pink "Owens Corning" board.
That’s a bit heavier than foam he installed no? Will require a spring adjustment, but good suggestion.
@@fult45 So because you MIGHT have to adjust spring tension, you say it's not a good suggestion. Well my suggestion it you adjust the spring tension and problem solved. That's why they make it ADJUSTABLE. DUH!
@@AztecWarrior69_69 Take it easy there keyboard warrior. Glad you could add your valuable input. Spring adjustment is simple. Relax. Take a deep breath.
For anyone doing this: You're much better off using 1" to 1.5" RMax polyisocyanurate foam with the metal foil on both sides. It's more expensive than EPS foam but has double the R-value. And in such a small depth of a 1.5" wall you will really need it if you expect it to really help. That and having a foil layer up against the door's sheet metal will greatly GREATLY aid in reflecting heat or cold back out while the inside foil layer does the same. Using white EPS foam and then having to add an additional layer of bubble foil (to inside only) will still only give ~1/2 the R value and again, if anything, the foil should go inside against the door's sheet metal for optimal heat reflection. If I was using EPS then I would at very minimum buy a roll of attic foil (it's ~2mm thick) as install that first. But again, the actual metal foil on RMax thermasheath-3 is superior to using raw EPS. As they say... you pay for what you get.
Hi. How would you attach all of it, glue, tape?
You don’t want the foil touching the door. Radiant barriers need an air gap to work properly.
Dude, you are an absolute perfectionist! Watching you cutting the pieces off the masking tape to make everything look neat is so satisfying. Thank you for such a detailed video. This will help me with my garage door project.
You can buy Rigid Insulation foam boards that are essentially the same thing as this Garage Insulation kit, just at a fraction of the cost. Especially if you're going to be cutting to size anyway.
Would love to get an update to see how it's doing for colder months. I like working in garage in the winter but man does it get cold. Thank you. PS really enjoy how meticulous you are
Idea, instead of using yellow tape on the top window panels,you should use double sided velcro stripes; You can take off any of the top window panels in the day, so you can see on the outside .
Great idea!
Your attention to detail is astonishing. You even correct your grammar in your editing. 😂 That’s worth admiration and praise. Both the insulation job and video production are of very high quality.
Thank you.
The foil tape is designed for the high heat of heating ducts... I would recommend it over any other for this.
R tech 1.5” foil backed foam insulation panels at HD fit most garage door depths, cuts with a circular saw, table saw, or 3 old school hand saw. Messy but huge money saver. 3 car garage 4 panels high takes about 3 hours.
Sorry I couldn't finish watching this. dude you swing that camera around way too much. I felt like I was on a fun house ride. I am sure your video is very informative but the motion was horrible.
Hey guys, I felt like I needed to make a revision here. I don't suggest using masking tape to hold up the Reflectix. It looks like it's coming off in some places that I didn't take care to press it down really well. More of an annoyance than a big issue, but if you're doing this, go ahead and use the foil tape.
Aluminum tape is the way to go IMO.
Masking tape isn't designed for permanent use. Add the heat and forgetaboutit.
Yeah I expected that. The aluminum tape would definitely do the job. It's made for HVAC use and will hold up. You're right about it being a PITA to remove but it will stick to wood, plastic, steel, glad, bare concrete, people, etc. reliably.
Your 2 layer idea definitely could work better with an air gap between the layers. The first year on the reflectix package illustrates this. There were two air gaps there and just the reflectix on the inside of both layers and you get an R-value of 21 where as you only get an R-value of 3 if you put it directly on the door. Granted in the pic the 2 layers may have been OSB which adds an R-value (s) to the mix where the metal door just transmits heat like a big heat sink. Physics is fun 😉
they have foam joint tape at your local home box store for foamular board. check it out home seal made for polystyrene joints
Try gaffers tape! I use it everywhere now
I've watched several videos on the process of insulating a garage door. This was by far the most informative! I was torn between the two techniques and I really appreciate that you showed the difference between the single and double layers. This was very helpful and I really appreciate you putting this video together!
I'd suggest after cutting reflective panels to size, and double check fit, use 3M Super 77 spray adhesive. This will insure the panels stay put, and glue to the foam. You won't need the tape, but can carefully install to seal the edges if you like.
I’m an over kill type of person too. Plus for esthetics I think I will do both. Thank you for this awesome video.
Sorry to tell you this, but you because you installed it all wrong you lowered the performance of every product you used. Unfortunately, many people will watch this video and do what you did because you think you over killed it. But, the only reason you'll feel a difference is because you did "something". You'd have the same, if not better, performance using either product by itself, or throwing it all out and starting over. I suggest buying sheets of polyisocyanurate rigid foam (closed cell foam vs the open cell EPS you're using) and cutting each to size. It has a higher R-Value and costs considerably less than the "dedicated" garage door product you bought. They also usually come with a radiant barrier sheet on one side, eliminating the need for two products. R-Values measure the rate at which absorbed heat is transferred through a material. The actual R-Value of the Radiant Barrier is 1 or less than one, because that's not why/how they work. They don't slow the rate of heat transfer, they block or reflect the heat from ever being absorbed in the first place. It's not illegal to mislead the public in America, so they put R-Values because 99% of people won't question it. Radiant barriers also have a low emittance of heat. In other words, any heat they do absorb isn't let go of. Anyway, way too much to go into this comment in detail, but you could've saved a lot of time and money by just using the polyiso foam I mentioned above. I am interested in an update like the others. I wish I thought of getting a temp monitor before and after when I did my garage, but I wasn't trying to prove to anyone the difference when I did it. Maybe next time. I hope I didn't sound like a dick, not my intention, I just want people to understand that this isn't the way to do it, it's the way to make these companies more money and that's it.
Yo. I appreciate the comment. Going to pick up some foam board this weekend. Do you know if the thickness of the board matters all that much?
@@wax-ecstatic Good question. I believe for the radiant barrier aspect to work, you need to leave at least a small air gap between the shiny side and the garage door. I'm about to pick up the same material (polyiso) and build an attic door cover.
To get privacy in the evening, you’ll need to install external lights above the filmed windows that are bright enough to reflect off the windows, or have lights indirectly/directly pointing at your windows. You’ll need to play with placement to make it work correctly.
Radiant barrier first, then the foam insulation.. sorry, but you have it backwards.
this^
It’s not effective as a radiant barrier without a gap and sealed around all edges.
I was thinking the same thing. Perhaps you could switch it on one door and get a real comparison. The refletex against the metal first should theoretically make a difference
@@fdbg39 You don't want the reflectix against the door. You want an air gap between the two. It would have probably worked better if he simply skipped the foam and attached the reflectix to the frame, leaving that space as an air gap.
@@62Sketch where does the"HOT AIR" go? It's gotta leak in somewhere.
💥 FYI: You would have better results if the reflective layer was installed underneath the foam layer. 🤑🤪 EXCELLENT video, thankyou for sharing. 👍
Your doors are 3 sections high because they are "Carriage House" doors. Most come this way to achieve that large top window. Also, you added weight to the door. The doors will eventually need a different spring to balance properly and give you it's expected cycle life. I know for a fact those Amarr doors don't run that smooth to begin with, be careful running it manually
First garage door guy comment I've seen.👍
I installed styrofoam insulation on my garage door and when I needed service on the spring, the technician said the weight of the insulation is enough to affect the balance of the door and the spring tension needed. Maybe it’s B.S. but it’s something to consider.
You are right ! It's a B. S. !‼️ Garage door's Technician only want your $1000. for nothing ‼️ you don't have to adjust it , it weight is nothing ! Only thing I some garage door's motor will wear out in 20 to 40 years of service . And wore out motor has nothing to do with light- Foam or Reflection barrier , my Step- dad replaced his garage door motor to a better chair- drive of course it was a 1967 house had it replaced with Sear catalog Garage door's motor probably a half horse powers motor chains- drive in 1981. It heavy Duty 2 car garage door 1 large door. Wood and metal . But now everything is light weight in 2000 to 2021 and better motor .
the radiant barrier needs to be next to the outside surface, this will ensure the radiant barrier is doing its job the way it was designed, radiating heat out. the foil tape will not melt and is permanent, it is designed for heating ducts. The yellow tape is a temporary tape and over time will degrade and come off. looks good though
Now try taking it all down and install the reflectics first and then the foam. As long as there is a small gap between the foam, the reflectics, and the door, it should insulate better than the reflectics facing you on the interior of the foam.
Any updates on the ambient temperature changes? Would love to hear how much of a difference this makes!
Same
Will be updating this weekend, sorry for the delay!
@@RestorationForBeginners I basically did the same thing after watching your video. I did not get the foam boards. I have noticed a drastic change around ~ 10' less
Didn't do shit. He said.
@@NCPorkBBQ thats it!? 10 fkn degrees!?
Great idea. Those huge clear glass windows are a thieve's delight for all of your tools and stuff.
Definitely, but I'm more concerned about my neighbors judging me while I talk to myself making silly videos at 2am in the morning in a BRIGHT garage.
@@RestorationForBeginners Hah! Now that's funny! I wonder if there is a tint product made that would NOT have the reverse effect at night. That would be good to know!
I know one of my neighbors has all of the windows on the front of their home tinted. However I've never seen it at night when they have their lights on inside!
The IR thermometer measurement is a divergent spot, it's not measuring just the tiny laser dot, which is just for aiming purposes. Need to get much closer or use a larger target tape. For an accurate measurement you need a larger surface with an emissivity of something around 0.95.
You can compare measurements with an actual thermometer to see if the tape being used as a target is suitable.
Good job putting the tape up so your laser infrared thermometer is not measuring the reflective surface, at the 20:09 mark. But the thermometer doesn't measure the point where your laser hits. It measures an approx 30degree cone, so when you stand back like that, you don't get an accurate measure. You need to hold the thermometer right up close to that tape.
Update pls?! 😩 Beautiful Z by the way 🔥
Wow thank you for this video. I did the cellophane insulation like you and fortunately I did not have to use tape as I have a standard size garage door. It made an incredible temperature difference as mine is west facing and the summers get pretty hot in this part of California.
HOAs suck. We looked a long time to find a home that checked all of the boxes without HOA. They do have advantages such as no parking in the street and no idiots setting off fireworks in the street.
Good demonstration. The radiant barrier should be directly on the door to radiate the heat. Foam insulation can be over the radiant barrier
You realize making tape of any quality will harden, and leave a residue.
Spray adhesive on the foam and backing would be my answer
Nice job. However, for you’re own knowledge. The aluminum tape would have lasted longer than the masking tape. Often, that is the go to tape for HVAC work, when installing ductwork/ or working with the sheet metal housing of the indoor unit.
First thing I would have done would say GOOD RIDDENCE TO THE HOA.
Find an HOA that likes white instead of maroon mebbe. I wonder how much cooler it would have been with a simple external color change of the door.
I couldn’t imagine owning a house and having something, like the HOA telling me what i can and cant do. What would be the point of buying a house?
It's to protect you and others from the crazy neighbour who decides to paint his house Lakers Purple and Gold and put a stripper pole out front crapping on your property value. Although most of the time they end up having someone who goes out of their way to harrass you about every small thing.
Imagine your neighbor having a camper out front 247, 4ft tall grass and a car on blocks in his front yard and not being able to do anything about it.
Jason Chalanick - Its his property, why would i care what it looks like?
@@ikikuraz bc you don't want the place looking like trash
Yeah, the very reason I will NEVER buy a home in a HOA ever again. I painted the sun faded front door back to it's original color and the HOA had a fit that I didn't use a color that was approved by them. It was the freaking original color. Sold that one about 6 months later. Too many people with power trips on HOA boards.
Good job. I also like the classical music. Very relaxing.
One of the several Gymnopedie - Erik Satie
Doing both would make more of a difference if you installed it right. The reflective material blocks a lot of the heat, but only when it's on the other side of the insulation. The foam is a better insulation, but it's meant to be on the conditioned side of the Bubble wrap
Would love to see your restoration vids of that Z!
I wonder if the doors move faster now with the new racing stripes.
No... but if you chrome them,.... then absolutely
@@Muadison Chrome racing stripes!
Hi I would really like to ask if you’ve done the same temperature test in the winter to see the difference and compare the insulation to the summer coverage to see what is the greatest money saving value for more functionality for both summer and winter climates to both keep the garage cool in the summer and warm in the winter ?
I can attest to reflectix. I use it to insulate the hose of my portable air conditioners. 80 to 90 percent difference in temperature. Anybody that owns one know how much the hose radiates heat.
might want to change your springs. believe it or not just the addition of insulation will exceed the weight capacity of the springs. insulated doors have a bigger stronger spring compared to those used on just a metal door.
Insulated garage doors have metal panels on the outside and inside. I'm not sure the installation he used adds that much weight.
Caution! Adding weight to your garage door can put extra stress on the door opener. It can cause the motor/gear to fail prematurely. I work in garage door service and i see this all the time. If you do this contact your local garage door company and ask about an insulation kit. you may need to replace your spring to compensate for the wight of the insulation.
What about if I add two door locks on each side to prevent someone from unlocking my garage? Would the metal locks make a difference?
none of this will add enough weight to matter for any decent garage door opener or spring its only about 5lbs or less per door . You could have have that much weight from a lot of dirt sobers ! You dont have any idea whether or not the insulation caused the problems you saw except maybe adjusting a torsion spring slightly. I guess you would think it caused every failure you saw if every garage door you serviced was insulated. Or maybe you wouldn't even notice or think it caused any of them. You would at least first have to know what percentage had insulation in your area and how old the motors were and what HP rating and what brand and the record of each of those brands longevity and how many times a day on average each were operated etc !
@@teekay1785 with an insulated door you need a stronger IPPT spring. Any garage door installer knows this. That is why we carry so many different size springs. When I install a garage door that has insulation they give me a stronger spring for that door. You say it doesnt make a difference. The engineers beg to differ.
A good way to test the door is feel it manually. It should lift very easily and pull down easily. It should not fall down. If the door doesnt stay in the open position then the door is too heavy.
@@againstallodds404 you will forget that you locked the lock and bend the door in two. Happens more than you would think. Those locks are great on a door you lift manually every day. If you have an automatic garage opener on the door I highly suggest not putting a lock on it.
@@HondaVTRF-cz6gn a torsion spring is tightened not changed and most anyone would know adding 3-5 lbs of styrofoam at moat could add that weight to pulling it up by hand and make essentially no significant difference to the motor and if you are lifting it with a motorized opener you wont care if it weighs 3 lbs more. Get real not IDEAL if you want to make a believable argument.
This video helped a lot I really appreciate it also your video quality and editing is great
Your original garage door radiates heat. You should’ve put a 2 to 3 inch air gap from the the door just used the reflectix as a radiant barrier. If additional insulation was required, then add foam directly onto the reflectix. So door skin, air gap, reflectix, then foam.
This is the correct way!
I’ve just discovered your channel! Great OCD work on the insulation. You mentioned you wash the floor a lot to remove the dust. Consider painting the (what looks like concrete) with epoxy paint. I did mine on bare concrete and now has very little dust from the floor itself. I insulated my garage doors too but as I’m from the UK, the problem I had was to keep heat in when it’s 0 degrees C outside.
Any luck. I am also trying to make winters easier to work through. Was hoping this would help retain some heat.
I think you put the radient barrier first to reduce infrared radiation, then the foam to slow down heat transfer for best results.
But definitely good you covered the windows with that radiant barrier.
I really enjoyed this and will be doing it myself
I would never buy a house where there is HOA they are basically the mafia
cool story man!
I was hoping for a comparison of the Temps between the window films alone.
While living in Vegas this was a normal process. The problem was locating the foam. It had to be ordered in 4X8 foot sheets from the hardware store. I used a hot wire machine to cut it, I just happened to have the machine. The process is good for both heat and cold. Yes, it freezes in Vegas too, it even snows!
The blue or pink foam is a closed-cell foam and even better but it costs more.
Love the way you edit your videos with the music choice on your time lapse. 👍🏼
Any thoughts to the insulation above the garage? My garage seems to be very hot, but most of the heat comes from above.
Living in Texas, I can appreciate your project. I would have used 2 layers as well. Do you have any thoughts about creating an air barrier around the edges of the garage doors?
Bc I'm in a hot region I'm considering running a split-unit AC into my garage. I'll want to seal those gaps as best possible or perhaps run a curtain around the tracks.
just make sure you put an airgap between door and 1st piece.
Excellent job. Thank you 🙏
Great video! 19:50 you registered a 40-50 degree difference in temp? Amazing! I'm going to do my doors before June 2021..
I like your meticulous attention to detail and overkill. I'm a lot like this myself. Great job. I am interested to see the second video showing the temperature readings. Thanks for posting this. Cheers
Great video, Could you provide the temp drop of the top panels after you added the 2nd layer of reflictix? I have windows in my garage door and plan on doing something similar. Thanks!
I haven't checked after installing the second layer, but I'll try to include it in the update video in the next couple of weeks. Weather really hasn't been that cooperative!
I'm with Joshua, where's that update bruh????
Best result would be reflectix against the metal and cello on top.
VERY TRUE
Pretty sad that the HOA dictates your garage door color. How anyone can pay someone to tell them what they can and can't do to their own house is beyond me. I've beem considering doing this to my garage. It gets hot here in West tx.
I would fill all the little gaps as well between panels and windows for instance I noticed there was about a 20 to 50 mm gap, these can be the cause of huge changes as well as under the doors when the come down. You might look at that spray foam but its very messy.
I subscribed because your video is well put together, you explain things clearly and thoroughly and most importantly... YOUR MUSIC IS NOT ANNOYING AND IS PLEASANT!!!! Nice Vid!
Nice, clean install and I appreciate the attention to detail and Overkill. Can't wait to see the 280 completed! 👍
You and others might want to reconsider using foil tape. I use foil tape for wrapping heating ducts. It does not break down as does "duct" tape. It would make a cleaner and neater job on your garage. Good video! Thanks.
Idk why, but every time I see the word GARAGE I say it with an australian accent
I want to see what you're doing with that Z!
This was great! Your process and detailed guidance is terrific. We were looking for a tip to insulate our garage for our freezer and to play ping pong. Thank you!
Restoration for Beginners, A common misconception is that EXPANDED polystyrene (the foam beads) is STYROFOAM. FOAM BEAD is not Styrofoam. STYROFOAM is actually the trademark name by Dow Chemical for EXTRUDED polystyrene, the SMOOTH CLOSED cell foam. When formed in sheets, EXTRUDED polystyrene will have two smooth faces and the cut edges show the cut cells. Normally everyone knows what you refer to when you say Styrofoam, even though its not correct.
Home depot & Lowe's have the foam boards with foil on one side for 10-15 bucks that are 4 foot by 8 foot and 3/4 inch thick. I have cut them to size next to the car in the parking lot ( a little away from the crowd of cars at the front where people want the good spots) that way they can stack inside the car in what ever size your use is. I have the panels made for east side facing windows in the morning of the house, west side windows in the afternoon. Put a drawer pull handle in the middle with fender washers to keep the bolt heads from pulling through to make it easy to pop it into the window sill. Oh yeah, use the chrome looking tape around the outside edge of those panels, otherwise the little Styrofoam balls will make a mess. I have found the chrome looking tape with duct tape stuff at the 99 cent only stores and works good.
Nice video - I think you should do a garage tour and go into how you built your shelving.
Yeah - kudos for time stamps.
I will look for other videos of yours.
The overkill will come in handy when you heat your garage, as it should reflect heat back inside.
👍
Well…hmmm. Where to start… First, styrofoam is the least desirable foam for this application.
Second, using 4x8 sheets of foam would allow you to cut panels to fit rather than cobbling pieces together.
Third, I’m scratching my head over your concern about the material getting wet, and then using paper masking tape (which is going to dry out and curl up if you don’t wet it first.
Lastly, complicating the process by adding foil back bubble wrap just made my head explode. Better foams come in full sheets with or without foil facing…
I was looking for a garage heating solution, and because I saw your 77-78 Z car body, I had to stop, now I'll watch the video to see if you have something else interesting. I'm scanning the vid for clues to the year, since the doors, hood and fenders are missing, it's tough. It appears that it may have been sporting the skinny 69-73 240 bumpers, (paint over masked bumpers and overspray shadow) though the recessed contours may be this illusion, though I can't see these contours. Fat rounded bumpers are late 75 built 76Zs. Square fat ones only 77-78. If interested, I still have a couple rear light housings from any 74-78, some AFM, maybe some brains and assorted badges I think. Last summer I finally let go of all the rubber parts to fully finish a 75-76 style. It took me about 5 years to locate them. When I sold my 76, all the extra dash's, wiring harnesses guages, perfect seats, a low mileage, start-able L28 and so much more, in the package. I paid $400 for that 76, barely running, and it came with a free 74 2+2 as a donor. I sold it fully restored, though no longer running for I think $2k
I am a Z fan. My first was an 81ZX, which I drove for a few years and along the way I bought and restored a 76. During this 3-4 year period I had about 5. One became a race car and was killed within a week by the buyer in a street race, he wasn't killed just the car. All That was in Seattle where they were plentiful in the late 90s. Now in Wisconsin I no longer have my favorite, the 76. Sold it to a collector in Chicago.
I literally watched half your video, got to the foam boards and bounced to buy 2 kits at lowes. I could only find one roll of refletics. It is 104 here and our garage is hot as hells doorstep. I have hundreds of dollars of paint in there as well as completed paintings and my work area ( Idont call it a studio because I've only sold 4 paintings so far). Anywho, I debated buying the 4x8 foam boards and cutting them myself but couldn't fit them in my Kia Soul. Im going to use the yellow Frog masking tape for delicate surfaces. Thank you for the info.
This guy isn’t messing around.
Even if it's just a 4 degree decrease with the reflective insulation, the aggregate heat gain probably makes it worthwhile.
This guy...... It's obvious he is really thorough with high IQ ....why is he wasting his smart asian powers on something like this???? Man just call a garage door company 🤦🤦🤦🤦 but thanks for the cool video no disrespect and cool Z car
Need to try some gaffers tape. It holds forever, leaves no gunk after removing, and looks nice!
I painted my brown garage doors white and it made a HUGE difference. My South Florida southern facing double aluminum garage door originally painted brown got so hot in midday, you couldn’t touch it.
Too bad you can’t convince your HOS to allow a variance in the approved colors of your neighborhood’s garage doors.
Nice insulation job. I personally would have used aluminum tape to seal everything up because it is stronger and more appealing to the eye. For my garage I plan to use 2 layers of reflective bubble insulation and not use the foam material at all.
I may have missed it but did you get a temp on the glass (by putting tape on there) and see what the difference was? Any difference from that metal piece not insulated where you got upwards of 125 degrees, you think? I'd rather keep the natural sunlight coming through if I can.
great video,
i also looked into the polystyrene garage kits.
I went to a big box store and found 48x96 sheets of reflective/foil backed polystyrene.
Who cares of the insulation, 240 Z rocks , good luck on the restoration. I used to have one back in the day.
I’m thinking of doing this, but would like reflective mirror from inside, so I can use it for my home gym. Would it affect the insulation effectiveness?
Dude the reason the window is cooler is because the window ti t is blocking out the head 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🙄🙄🙄🙄
So I’ve been looking to insulate the doors of my garage and I clicked on this video, and hold the F_ck up for one minute? Is that a Z car I spy with my little eye? Guessing 240Z?
It's foolish to use regular masking tape, it will eventually fall off. Your far better option was to use the Aluminum tape. It will never fall off and matches the silver panels you installed.
You will never recover the money you spent on insulating those doors vs. energy savings. No matter how much or what insulation you add to a garage door, there is still the joints between the sections. Take an infra-red picture of the door at night, you will see the heat escape.
Additionally like every other TH-cam video about installing insulation on a garage door, you didn't take into consideration the weight you added to the door. Garage doors are designed to be balance with the spring system. Adding weight without adjusting the torsion spring can lead to screw up the opener and door. If the door is new, adding insulation voids any warranty to the door.
I've been thinking of doing the same thing to my garage, but for a different reason. During the winter the basement gets very cold since it faces North and is in a constant shadow, especially on a cold night. The bare metal doors suck out any heat. Insulating them in the same manner as you have should make the basement garage workshop a better place to work. Thanks for the tips.
Iam so amazed and impressed. I like the discipline and attention to detail. I think this is a great video and it’s organized very well.
I have the Gila mirror the bubbles to hard to remove. Removing the clear stick guard it's hard to remove that's how 90% creases comes from. I was planning doing that panels as well thanks 👍
you should update your description to include your timestamps. then your video will automatically have chapters
Why not layer the Reflectix insulation first against the garage door, THEN hold it in place with the next layer, the styrofoam?
You should have had the thermometer gun right next to the tape, at that distance your gun might have a 1 foot reading circle.
All the videos I've seen the garage doors have brackets on door panels...mine does not. Any suggestions? Note only bracket I have going across is under the window section. Thanks for the video
looks like a newer construction or at least newer doors. of course with how clean you keep things it could be older. curious how your door seals/weather stripping play into this? i am considering doing the same with my garage doors but i also have so weather stripping on the exterior to do also. dont you love being a home owner. ha ha ha. great video and very informative. Thanks for taking the time.
I live in new england so its pretty much the worst weather in america year round, and shitty fucking 1800s houses. Im gonna line my bedroom walls floor and ceiling with this shit.
Great video. You are an intelligent TH-camr. You explain what your doing very well. Can't wait to watch other videos.