I can respect that I mean in our automotive class we have cars that are in the same condition as that one that go no where that we repair parts on as a learning experience. These vids will help me out in my career as well. From a technician in training over here I want to say keep up the good vids Ben. -Chris
Call me a nerd, but I love watching these videos. Informative yet entertaining and straight forward. The internet is full of amazing free material, and this is one perfect example. Even if I never actually do this repair, at least now I know what it being done to my car and what to look out for. Thanks!
Great video and commentary. All the little verbal tricks you tell us are a great help. Thanks so much. It wasn't half as complicated as I thought it would be!
Excellent! I watched the video a couple of times and decided I could replace the half shaft on a 2003 Buick Rendezvous. Bought the part and took the old one out. Everything you said would happen did happen. Watched the video in spots to verify what I was doing. No problems! I don't understand how a dealership can justify their charges for this job.
I like how your directions were clear and easy to understand. No long jokes or funny voices just telling us what we will need to do and showing us easy enough to figure out. Some of the guys on here thing they are funny with voice or joke if I want that I will look that up. Thanks again for making a great video and I not only saved this video I subscribed for future jobs I might have to do.
Your video was very good. It was way more clear and to the point than any others ive seen on this subject. Thank you so much for posting this one. I am changing the half shafts on a 1999 Chevy Malibu 2.4L. So pretty much the same as the car you did as far as how it's constructed. Thanks again.
THANK YOU for this! I did it once on my 2003 Mitsubish Outlander. Now I need to replace the drivers side AGAIN only after 3 years. The original lasted 10. Just needed to refresh my memory. Not sure why there are no posts for Mitsubishi Outlanders. Am I the only one who has one of these? Great cars.
Great video bro thank you so much i got a shitbox ive had to change bearings on, shocks, brakes, tie rods, ball joints, tires you name it and this is the most consice video ive seen so far, thanks bro hope youre doing good
Kudos on a well done video, it is good that he mentioned about the two strut bolts likely to affect alignment (camber), even if they aren't the adjustable type there is usually enough play to affect position, when reassembling. Most of these videos ignore this. He didn't mention to be prepared that a lot of transaxle fluid can drip out of the axle opening while the shaft is out. If he has enough mileage on the vehicle to warrant drive shaft replacement for whatever reason, he should have replaced the transaxle output seal while he was in there - a lot easier than finding that the hardened old seal didn't take kindly to being disturbed like this. Just saying, that's how I would do it.Those joints don't really wear out unless the c/v joint boots are torn for a length of time, so I wonder why he didn't just replace the boots. Taking the two c/v joints apart and cleaning, inspecting and re greasing isn't that much more work, I've done dozens of them.Those c/v joints are nearly indestructible and no great mystery to work on.
I tried your pry bar method on my Jeep Commander, All went well until time to pop out the axle. It would not come out. I pried and pried, I actually bent the Axle drive shaft seal and the oil started leaking out. Unfortunately none of the local parts stores had the seal. Have to visit dealer in the morning. You should mention that there is a tool similar to the tie rod end remover (aka pickle fork) that can be rented from parts store. Once I got this tool and hit with a BFH the axle popped right out. Took all of 1 minute. Never do this repair on a Sunday.
Hey, Question? I had a Pontiac Like Your’s ,I didn’t have a bad CV Axle but I had really WEAK Front Shocks - Struts.So I went through the hassle (Saved $75) of changing them myself. I bought them online from a Big Retailer and I questioned them about Front end Alignment after the swap. They e-mailed me that it wasn’t needed but if I didn’t have it done for say 50k or more it wouldn’t hurt. So I took it to a place that specializes in Alignments.They hooked it all up and guess what? It was right on didn’t need any adjustment.The guy told me if there are elongated holes with special washers under the nuts ,like the holes are also wider than a round hole or the bolts that slide through the strut have on side between the head of the bolt and the threads a flattened side for Alignment , Then that would be a good indication that this is one of the alignment points,But since my holes for the struts were Perfectly Round without the adjustment washer it was not a caster or camber ,Toe in or out Point ??So were they Wrong or What?
Be sure to look up the specific torque for the axle nut on your vehicle. It's important that it's not under/over-tightened,as this can cause the bearing to fail. Use a torque wrench.
Many times,if you're replacing the hub/bearing,the included instructions for the new part will have the torque listed. It may vary from the OEM torque. It's probably best to follow the hub/bearing manufacturer's specs,in that case. Just an FYI,hope it helps someone.
PhattyMo Thanks again! You seem to know a lot about cars, i am just learning, a student. I jacked up my cars L front wheel, wiggled the drive axle shaft(the rod between the 2 boots?) and it can wiggle up n down, is that normal?
I'm just a backyard mechanic,and have a lot to learn myself. In my experience,the axle shafts should be fairly 'stiff',but may have a little play. If it feels 'loose',it's probably in need of repair/replacement. It may depend on the vehicle. I don't have a whole lot of experience with the shafts. Maybe somebody else will have a better answer. Or look for some videos about it here on TH-cam. Good luck!
PhattyMo Thanks for the reply! i will either take it to a mechanic or take another look into it, it just sucks when its raining and you have no garage and its night time, Cheers ^AB
I replaced the cv axle on my 2001 Pontiac grand am but for some reason it didn't pop out of the transmission very easily. I had to pry from a few different angles and it took quite a while to get it out and finally it came out. My question for you is do you know why I had such a difficult time getting it out? I'm obviously not a mechanic but I've done a heck of alot of stuff. I did get the job done so no harm, no foul, just a bit curious.
Superb explanation. My driveshafts are OK but I think there is a problem with the bearing in the gearbox where one of the shafts goes in. Does that generally mean a total gearbox strip down or can the bearing be pulled out with the transmission still in the car?
Do you have a video on how to replace the Bearing behing the cv oil seal on a grand prix. 2008 When i removed my cv axle there was little bearings all over. Thanks for any help. Had to wrap a chain around the back of the axle then around a pry bar then swing like a bat just to get the axle out.
hey ben iam and aprentice mechanic i find your videos very , very usefull please donnot stop making them ! and one thing , can you make the videos more longer , thank you and keep it up
How do I check to see if I need to replace the CV joints. Have a 97 Chrysler LHS and it acts much like a rear wheel drive does when the U-joint is shot! Have never done this so need all the help I can get.
Clicking noise while turning is usually a good indicator. Then you have to isolate it to which side it's happening on. If you can get under the car, inspect the boots on the half shafts, if they're cracked the packing grease has probably leaked completely out and you're just grinding metal. They should be grease free if they're operating properly (because the grease will still be completely contained inside of them).
eric the car guy did the same job and he didn't mess up the alignment at all he took bottom bolt and pin off and then replaced the axle it was much easier and less time you did it way weird and didn't really save us any money if we have to get an alignment afterwards. thanks
Your new or reman axle has the boots already pregreased. As for the fluid coming out the differential, not much maybe a quart comes out, rarely, but just in case you just check your trans fluid level after you're done, fill up as needed.
Did the replacement part come with the ABS wheel or did you reuse the existing one...I got to replace my half shaft and I didn't think about that when ordering the part. :/
they most likely can be but if there is a ripped boot you will have a lot of sand like stuff and different things that are bad for the joint...like said get a pro to clean it out and install a new boot or just buy a. new one
+Dan Makwakwa whole new shaft is so cheap why go to all the trouble to replace the boots. I was going to do what you are talking about but why when things are so cheap.
all front drive cars is basically the same just different sizes and bolts. im replacing both of mine on a 01 dodge intrepid 3.2 not a fun job but not that hard. If the axel want come out of trans lock a log chain on the end where it goes in trans and and tug the other end of the chain. hope this helps.
hello sir, I have a 2000 KIA sephia I'm trying to replace the passenger side CV axle. For some reason I cannot get the axle pushed all the way into the transmission shaft. Also my lower ball joint keeps falling out pulling my CV axle out if the transmission shaft every time I try to take it for a test drive. Do you have any answers?
Instead of removing the knuckle/strut bolts to provide clearance to remove the axle, isn't it possible to avoid a alignment issues by removing the lower ball joint from the knuckle instead?
Sir why does my car shift but wont move at all even in reverse. When im not stepping on the clutch there are some weird rolling noise which is I think from the CV axle or from the boot part. My speedo reads some speed when im not pressing the clutch and coming back to as I press the clutch and the weird noises gone as I press in the clutch. What possible problem of my car sir? It is a Mitsubishi Lancer with a Manual Transmission on it. Hope you answer sir. Thanks a lot!
if thers was some sort of oil or grease leak, how do i replace or wher do i need to put some in, if necesary, to replace what was lost, is it need for concer? i mean all my oarts are new and say theyr already lubed.
I’m getting a vibration and it honestly looks like the transmission end of the shaft isn’t seated all the way down. Is there a way to make sure? My boots are fine no tears. My front suspension was lowered a while back to change the oil pan. And the end came out as did some fluid. I refilled the fluid and thought the end was back in place and I’m not so sure but it’s all bolted down.
I've replaced a axle driver side plenty of times this is my first time doing a passenger side sealing surface has like a extension piece of driveshaft? Got the part from junk yark um was they too lazy to pop it off for me or ?
hello sir , last week I change my ford focus front axle . but after change that mechanic didn't refill oil for it. I it okay?and please advise me, he said there is no axle oil separately comes. he refill gear oil only.
Would it be just as simple to change the axle on a Mazda 6 2003? And also, how would you know that your actually turning enough to a certain amount of torque?
Use a torque wrench. You set the torque wrench to whatever foot lbs that you looked up and it clicks when your tight enough. You also have to see that your bolt is on all the way. I've had a torque wrench say "tight enough" when the bolt wasn't on all the way.
Ah, I think an alignment does need done. I did both my axles and within weeks my good tires were completely warn on the insides. I think he's correct. My GM car uses the same exact set-up. Tires should last the life of the tire rating.
I have a 2005 Chevy Cavalier with a ripped boot on the front/passenger side. I pulled the axel and replaced it with a remanufactured one. Week later started making noise again, I thought it might be because it's is a remanufactured one. Bought a brand new one and it does the same thing still. And the stub shaft seems to be stuck too.
Personally, I would replace both axle shafts if your budget and schedule permits - If both axles are the same age, when one fails the other is usually not far from failing too. It's extra work, but once done you don't have to worry about it for 100K+ miles. Thanks for the informative video!
Great vid!! I am trying to remove 2008 Jetta front drivers Axle - 1K0407271BP. for CV boot repair. How do I pull it from the transmission side? Ben, I see that you forced a pry bar behind it. Maybe, that's what I need to do. I saw your half-axle was similar to mine on the transmission side. Anyboddy know?? I got the axle freed from the wheel side, easily. But, wasn't sure how to pop it from transmission side. Didn't want o force anything until I was certain of method. I saw several videos that show certain VW-family years and models where 6 -each 10mm spline bolts are removed from an inboard bracket.. then, axle pops out (of course, having already freed up the wheel side). But, my axle doesn't have this. Thoughts (I know... go to VW service... HAH!)
I have a 1999 Honda Accord automatic V6 it recently started shaking only when I accelerate. the shaking gets worse uphill and gets worse the longer I drive... it doesn't matter what gear I go into it shakes. when step on it it still shakes. would this just be an axle/cv joint problem. the car has 190,000 miles and never had the struts replaced. could that be the culprit?
If you have to hammer the CV axle shaft to get it to push through the wheel hub, I suggest using a rubber cap or a piece of wood instead of twisting the nut on backwards, and using that as a hammer point. You can lock that nut on there by smashing the threads and have to end up cutting the nut off.
Wow, a mechanic video with great sound quality! I could actually hear what Ben was saying. Very helpful video, thanks for offering it to us.
I can respect that I mean in our automotive class we have cars that are in the same condition as that one that go no where that we repair parts on as a learning experience. These vids will help me out in my career as well. From a technician in training over here I want to say keep up the good vids Ben.
-Chris
Call me a nerd, but I love watching these videos. Informative yet entertaining and straight forward.
The internet is full of amazing free material, and this is one perfect example. Even if I never actually do this repair, at least now I know what it being done to my car and what to look out for.
Thanks!
Great video and commentary. All the little verbal tricks you tell us are a great help. Thanks so much. It wasn't half as complicated as I thought it would be!
Excellent! I watched the video a couple of times and decided I could replace the half shaft on a 2003 Buick Rendezvous. Bought the part and took the old one out. Everything you said would happen did happen. Watched the video in spots to verify what I was doing. No problems! I don't understand how a dealership can justify their charges for this job.
I just replaced my driver side on a '04 rendezous and it wasn't bad at all, no time for an '83 nissan datsun sentra
They need to pay for the fancy suits and free coffee
I like how your directions were clear and easy to understand. No long jokes or funny voices just telling us what we will need to do and showing us easy enough to figure out. Some of the guys on here thing they are funny with voice or joke if I want that I will look that up. Thanks again for making a great video and I not only saved this video I subscribed for future jobs I might have to do.
Your video was very good. It was way more clear and to the point than any others ive seen on this subject. Thank you so much for posting this one. I am changing the half shafts on a 1999 Chevy Malibu 2.4L. So pretty much the same as the car you did as far as how it's constructed. Thanks again.
You make these jobs look so easily done. Video as usual is on spot - hopefully I can do an awesome job even as close as you did. 😁
Nice job. Thank you for taking the time to do this video! From Palmyra, Maine
This was the first significant repair I ever did. Very straight forward on my first love, my crx
THANK YOU for this! I did it once on my 2003 Mitsubish Outlander. Now I need to replace the drivers side AGAIN only after 3 years. The original lasted 10. Just needed to refresh my memory. Not sure why there are no posts for Mitsubishi Outlanders. Am I the only one who has one of these? Great cars.
Great video bro thank you so much i got a shitbox ive had to change bearings on, shocks, brakes, tie rods, ball joints, tires you name it and this is the most consice video ive seen so far, thanks bro hope youre doing good
Kudos on a well done video, it is good that he mentioned about the two strut bolts likely to affect alignment (camber), even if they aren't the adjustable type there is usually enough play to affect position, when reassembling. Most of these videos ignore this. He didn't mention to be prepared that a lot of transaxle fluid can drip out of the axle opening while the shaft is out. If he has enough mileage on the vehicle to warrant drive shaft replacement for whatever reason, he should have replaced the transaxle output seal while he was in there - a lot easier than finding that the hardened old seal didn't take kindly to being disturbed like this. Just saying, that's how I would do it.Those joints don't really wear out unless the c/v joint boots are torn for a length of time, so I wonder why he didn't just replace the boots. Taking the two c/v joints apart and cleaning, inspecting and re greasing isn't that much more work, I've done dozens of them.Those c/v joints are nearly indestructible and no great mystery to work on.
I tried your pry bar method on my Jeep Commander, All went well until time to pop out the axle. It would not come out. I pried and pried, I actually bent the Axle drive shaft seal and the oil started leaking out. Unfortunately none of the local parts stores had the seal. Have to visit dealer in the morning. You should mention that there is a tool similar to the tie rod end remover (aka pickle fork) that can be rented from parts store. Once I got this tool and hit with a BFH the axle popped right out. Took all of 1 minute. Never do this repair on a Sunday.
Thanks Ben and C/D for this awesome video. Very well shot and informative.
Good job mate, very well put together and step by stepped
lost the title.... i think its awesome that your not BSing us! thats one of the reasons i love this show
Ben, You have A great help. I have 3 cars and I will come back to you as needed. THANKS.
Hey,
Question? I had a Pontiac Like Your’s ,I didn’t have a bad CV Axle but I had really WEAK Front Shocks - Struts.So I went through the hassle (Saved $75) of changing them myself. I bought them online from a Big Retailer and I questioned them about Front end Alignment after the swap. They e-mailed me that it wasn’t needed but if I didn’t have it done for say 50k or more it wouldn’t hurt. So I took it to a place that specializes in Alignments.They hooked it all up and guess what? It was right on didn’t need any adjustment.The guy told me if there are elongated holes with special washers under the nuts ,like the holes are also wider than a round hole or the bolts that slide through the strut have on side between the head of the bolt and the threads a flattened side for Alignment , Then that would be a good indication that this is one of the alignment points,But since my holes for the struts were Perfectly Round without the adjustment washer it was not a caster or camber ,Toe in or out Point ??So were they Wrong or What?
IT would of been nice to mention about replacing the cv axle seal while you had the shaft out, but enjoyed the video good job
Thanks so much Ben. You explain everything so well.
Be sure to look up the specific torque for the axle nut on your vehicle. It's important that it's not under/over-tightened,as this can cause the bearing to fail. Use a torque wrench.
thanks man
Many times,if you're replacing the hub/bearing,the included instructions for the new part will have the torque listed. It may vary from the OEM torque. It's probably best to follow the hub/bearing manufacturer's specs,in that case. Just an FYI,hope it helps someone.
PhattyMo
Thanks again! You seem to know a lot about cars, i am just learning, a student. I jacked up my cars L front wheel, wiggled the drive axle shaft(the rod between the 2 boots?) and it can wiggle up n down, is that normal?
I'm just a backyard mechanic,and have a lot to learn myself. In my experience,the axle shafts should be fairly 'stiff',but may have a little play. If it feels 'loose',it's probably in need of repair/replacement. It may depend on the vehicle. I don't have a whole lot of experience with the shafts. Maybe somebody else will have a better answer. Or look for some videos about it here on TH-cam. Good luck!
PhattyMo
Thanks for the reply! i will either take it to a mechanic or take another look into it, it just sucks when its raining and you have no garage and its night time, Cheers ^AB
I replaced the cv axle on my 2001 Pontiac grand am but for some reason it didn't pop out of the transmission very easily. I had to pry from a few different angles and it took quite a while to get it out and finally it came out. My question for you is do you know why I had such a difficult time getting it out? I'm obviously not a mechanic but I've done a heck of alot of stuff. I did get the job done so no harm, no foul, just a bit curious.
May I ask, did you put anything on transmission to distribute the load, when prying out the inner part of the CV Axle? Thank you for informative film.
Great explanation. Clear and easy to follow. Thanks
Superb explanation. My driveshafts are OK but I think there is a problem with the bearing in the gearbox where one of the shafts goes in. Does that generally mean a total gearbox strip down or can the bearing be pulled out with the transmission still in the car?
Thanks! This looks simpler than I thought it would be.
amazing. i suspect that i have torn boot last night and then this video popped up. Glad i subscribed.
Yet another great video! Any chance you can show how to do this a RWD car? Been wanting upgrade my diff
Thanks for the video. This Pontiac Grand Am is similar to the Oldsmobile Alero. Sometimes there are not too many videos of that car make.
Great video. Thanks from Australia
Best demo I could find, thanks!
This video is outstanding. Very informative. Thanks so much!!!
Do you have a video on how to replace the Bearing behing the cv oil seal on a grand prix. 2008 When i removed my cv axle there was little bearings all over. Thanks for any help. Had to wrap a chain around the back of the axle then around a pry bar then swing like a bat just to get the axle out.
if you paint bolt heads and surrounding surface b4 strut bolts removal , you can get alignment pretty close where it was during reassembly
Thank you for sharing!! That was an excellent job!! Congrats!!!
hey ben iam and aprentice mechanic i find your videos very , very usefull please donnot stop making them ! and one thing , can you make the videos more longer , thank you and keep it up
Thanks for the video. Great job
nice vid , question here , any vids on front wheel drive carrier bearing ? thanks
How do I check to see if I need to replace the CV joints. Have a 97 Chrysler LHS and it acts much like a rear wheel drive does when the U-joint is shot! Have never done this so need all the help I can get.
Clicking noise while turning is usually a good indicator. Then you have to isolate it to which side it's happening on.
If you can get under the car, inspect the boots on the half shafts, if they're cracked the packing grease has probably leaked completely out and you're just grinding metal. They should be grease free if they're operating properly (because the grease will still be completely contained inside of them).
excelent video, excelent sound, excelent demonstration, very, very helpfull, god bless you. thank you. ,
eric the car guy did the same job and he didn't mess up the alignment at all he took bottom bolt and pin off and then replaced the axle it was much easier and less time you did it way weird and didn't really save us any money if we have to get an alignment afterwards. thanks
very helpful, haven't done the replacement but soon to attempt.thanks
Won't the lithium grease contaminate the ATF? Just wondering... Thanks for the video, really helpful.
Nice video, thanks. You did not mention about how to address the oil or grease that was lost from the damaged CV.
Your new or reman axle has the boots already pregreased. As for the fluid coming out the differential, not much maybe a quart comes out, rarely, but just in case you just check your trans fluid level after you're done, fill up as needed.
Wow. The sockets or mLs that you have to get those bolts out. What size where those?
Great video do you have anything on Mercury Cougar 2000
Did the replacement part come with the ABS wheel or did you reuse the existing one...I got to replace my half shaft and I didn't think about that when ordering the part. :/
Nice!!! good job bro. god bless!
Thanks for showing me bro I'm going to save a lot of money doing it myself
And then I can make money doing family and another people cars.. 2020.. What...😊👍
Thanks so much . You explain everything so well.
Great video! Very well explained.
Hi Ben. Can the boots be replaced with new one without replacing the whole shaft? Because with mine it's just those boots which are broken.
they most likely can be but if there is a ripped boot you will have a lot of sand like stuff and different things that are bad for the joint...like said get a pro to clean it out and install a new boot or just buy a. new one
+Dan Makwakwa whole new shaft is so cheap why go to all the trouble to replace the boots. I was going to do what you are talking about but why when things are so cheap.
How do you replace cv axel on a 2000 Saturn LS2 3.0 V6? Would you do a video on it? Can you also show how to replace the drive belt on same vehicle?
all front drive cars is basically the same just different sizes and bolts. im replacing both of mine on a 01 dodge intrepid 3.2 not a fun job but not that hard. If the axel want come out of trans lock a log chain on the end where it goes in trans and and tug the other end of the chain. hope this helps.
Excellent Video. Thanks a lot :)
hello sir, I have a 2000 KIA sephia I'm trying to replace the passenger side CV axle. For some reason I cannot get the axle pushed all the way into the transmission shaft. Also my lower ball joint keeps falling out pulling my CV axle out if the transmission shaft every time I try to take it for a test drive. Do you have any answers?
very well done!
very good video!! can you show a video on how to remove and replace a transmission on Chevy vans FWD, without a hoist, thanks!!
very very useful to me,so many thanks to you.
Great video. I have learned a lot from your videos. I also love the gloves you use. Where can I get those?
from 8:22 to 8:43 you are using a flexible pry bar, from where did you get that tool? 🤔
Thankx a lot for sharing this video.. it help me lot.
THANK YOU....THAT WAS VERY HELPFUL...JOB WELL DONE...
Instead of removing the knuckle/strut bolts to provide clearance to remove the axle, isn't it possible to avoid a alignment issues by removing the lower ball joint from the knuckle instead?
+PsychoFisho
Nevermind - I posted before reading the comments.
I wanted to say something about no alignment needed, PsychoFisho you said it for me bud, ty
Sir why does my car shift but wont move at all even in reverse. When im not stepping on the clutch there are some weird rolling noise which is I think from the CV axle or from the boot part. My speedo reads some speed when im not pressing the clutch and coming back to as I press the clutch and the weird noises gone as I press in the clutch. What possible problem of my car sir? It is a Mitsubishi Lancer with a Manual Transmission on it. Hope you answer sir. Thanks a lot!
if thers was some sort of oil or grease leak, how do i replace or wher do i need to put some in, if necesary, to replace what was lost, is it need for concer? i mean all my oarts are new and say theyr already lubed.
Good video! But you forgot to put back the washer that goes behind the axle nut! (it falled on the floor at min: 7:50 in the video)
Very nice video! Should have replaced those broken studs while you were back there ;) haha.
LOL I know it will eventually be replaced but those broken studs where hitching me 'till the end of the video. hehehe ;-)
crpth1. c.
With it on the car should the inner joint have some play at the trans , up ,down,
Definitely not
I’m getting a vibration and it honestly looks like the transmission end of the shaft isn’t seated all the way down. Is there a way to make sure? My boots are fine no tears. My front suspension was lowered a while back to change the oil pan. And the end came out as did some fluid. I refilled the fluid and thought the end was back in place and I’m not so sure but it’s all bolted down.
GOOD QUALITY VIDEO APPRECIATE THE PROCEDURE BREAKDOWN.
I've replaced a axle driver side plenty of times this is my first time doing a passenger side sealing surface has like a extension piece of driveshaft? Got the part from junk yark um was they too lazy to pop it off for me or ?
hello sir , last week I change my ford focus front axle . but after change that mechanic didn't refill oil for it. I it okay?and please advise me, he said there is no axle oil separately comes. he refill gear oil only.
how to change bearing on wheel? I can hear it...do you have such video?
Excellemnt Vid, and additional experiences from comments also v useful. Thank you!
Would it be just as simple to change the axle on a Mazda 6 2003? And also, how would you know that your actually turning enough to a certain amount of torque?
Use a torque wrench. You set the torque wrench to whatever foot lbs that you looked up and it clicks when your tight enough. You also have to see that your bolt is on all the way. I've had a torque wrench say "tight enough" when the bolt wasn't on all the way.
Oh ok thanks!
Ah, I think an alignment does need done. I did both my axles and within weeks my good
tires were completely warn on the insides. I think he's correct. My GM car uses the same exact set-up. Tires should last the life of the tire rating.
Hi sir.. Can this problem makes a shaking when we accel from a stop position. Thx in adv.. I mean the sympthom besides clicking sound
After replacing the axle on my '04 Acura TSX, it shakes on Accelaration, no shaking before i replaced the axle, any help and advice, is appreciated.
no expert but make sure everything is seated right
That's easy you didn't do it right.
If you removed your strut bolts to get to axle, chances are shaking could be bad alignment.
thank you for this vedeo sir. now i know how to replace the axle😊😊
Question, working on a 00 kia sephia, removing cv axel passenger side, but it broke how do i get the other inner both off?
It is great video. Just wondering if any1 could help why wont my hub bolts line back up??
Great video. Thanks.
Very helpful!
Excellent but I won't be replacing a front axle half shaft anytime soon.
I have a 2005 Chevy Cavalier with a ripped boot on the front/passenger side. I pulled the axel and replaced it with a remanufactured one. Week later started making noise again, I thought it might be because it's is a remanufactured one. Bought a brand new one and it does the same thing still. And the stub shaft seems to be stuck too.
When changing CV axle, if only driver side is bad, should I just go ahead and change both axles or just change the bad one?
Depends on your time and budget. I would just replace the part that's bad.
Personally, I would replace both axle shafts if your budget and schedule permits - If both axles are the same age, when one fails the other is usually not far from failing too. It's extra work, but once done you don't have to worry about it for 100K+ miles.
Thanks for the informative video!
awesome vid, VERY informative and useful. Thank you!
i have a 1995 GMC Safari AWD is the process the same to replace the axle?
If the car makes a clicking sound on right turns is it the drivers side or the passengers side that needs to be replaced?
I'm curious why you did not replace the output shaft seal on the transmission when you had the shaft out of the vehicle.
Great vid!! I am trying to remove 2008 Jetta front drivers Axle - 1K0407271BP. for CV boot repair. How do I pull it from the transmission side?
Ben, I see that you forced a pry bar behind it. Maybe, that's what I need to do. I saw your half-axle was similar to mine on the transmission side. Anyboddy know??
I got the axle freed from the wheel side, easily. But, wasn't sure how to pop it from transmission side. Didn't want o force anything until I was certain of method.
I saw several videos that show certain VW-family years and models where 6 -each 10mm spline bolts are removed from an inboard bracket.. then, axle pops out (of course, having already freed up the wheel side). But, my axle doesn't have this.
Thoughts (I know... go to VW service... HAH!)
Very good, and helpful. thank you.
I have a 2009 Chevrolet Malibu, there is vibration during acceleration. Could it be because the transmission output seal is bad?
I have a 1999 Honda Accord automatic V6 it recently started shaking only when I accelerate. the shaking gets worse uphill and gets worse the longer I drive... it doesn't matter what gear I go into it shakes. when step on it it still shakes. would this just be an axle/cv joint problem. the car has 190,000 miles and never had the struts replaced. could that be the culprit?
I hope it's as easy for a 2008 Toyota 4 runner ? Any help is welcome thanks
Dude! I know a grip of other folks have pointed this out, but I can't help sayin those wheel studs!!!! Fix them when you've got the car up in the air.
thanks for this video it's so useful
Really good thanks.
Action is louder than many words!
If you have to hammer the CV axle shaft to get it to push through the wheel hub, I suggest using a rubber cap or a piece of wood instead of twisting the nut on backwards, and using that as a hammer point. You can lock that nut on there by smashing the threads and have to end up cutting the nut off.
stan d. upnow same here. I had to cut my axel bolt off which messed up the threads on the CV axel. I had to cut off bout a inch off of the CV axle.
Racampiño de un eho 2004