thank you so much for posting this easy video. My 15.5 y/o and I tackled this on Sunday, doing both sides to his car. Took us a little longer to break it loose from the transaxle, but eventually got it. Saved us shop money, and gave him the knowledge and skill to complete the job.
Great video, this is the way an instructional video should be done! Lots of detail and no assumptions about what you have done and where to go next. THANKS!
Eyyyyy thanks man, first time changing CVs on Kia, wasn't sure if it was similar to domestics, turns out it was even easier hahahah pig props for the meat and potatoes of the job, no frilly sweet talking no funny business just straight to the point. Your 4yo video is still relevant today.
Thank you so much for this video. I cannot tell you how much I appreciate it. You saved me alot of money, gave me the confidence to not only do this but also replace my struts at the same time. I tell EVERYBODY about your videos. In other words...YOU ARE AWESOME!!!
thank you so much for making this video. just replaced both cv axles on my 05 elantra and ur method is super easy to do and clear to follow. i managed to finish the job in three and half hours. and comparing w/ other youtube videos, ur method is literally the best and easiest way to do. otherwise messing w/ sway bar, brake caliper and ball joint would be harded to do.
Thank you for providing this & your other CV axle install video. From watching your videos & those of a few others I was able to successfully replace the passenger side CV axle on my 2001 Caravan. I had a Chilton manual to refer to but very seldom did I use it because the videos are much more instructional. One of the other CV shaft install videos that I watched was by Scotty Kilmer who recommends putting grease on the snap-ring end which I tried & it worked very well to help easily tap that end into the trans.
Thank you so much for your descriptive video. i changed my daughters CV axles on her 1999 hyundai mantra sportswagon today and it was straight forward thanks to your video. Greatly appreciated.
Thank you for the video. It was pretty straight forward. Don;t know why people go through trouble of removing lower ball joint arm to do this. It is much simpler using your method. Work smart not hard.
thanks for using good camera with good focus and good light. It's much easier to remove upper connection (as in the video) rather than lower ball joint in order to replace the cv axle.
Thank you so much for making this fantastic tutorial! I am having to replace the CV axle on my car and I'm so glad I came across this so I know what to expect.
Very informative. I will not be doing my own work on my old Ford van but at least I know more about what my mechanic will be doing when he works on it.
A screwdriver stuck between the brake rotor's cooling fins will prevent wheel from turning while removing axle nut. That way you can jack the car, remove the tire/rim, and still remove axle nut without having a friend holding the brake.
Great video and just the right amount of detail. I may just take this entire job on myself. I hope you have them on the brakes too as I can see where you are taking them off at the same time might as well replace the pads right?
Great video dude. I wish you were working on an 05 Kia sorento. I'm replacing mine tomorrow and have never done it before. I noticed on your repair, that when the strut mount was disconnected, that would have been a good time to replace the struts.
Pry bar method of popping it out does not always work. I tried this on my Jeep Commander today. All went well until time to pop out the axle. It would not come out. I pried and pried, I actually bent the Axle drive shaft seal and the oil started leaking out. Unfortunately none of the local parts stores had the seal. Have to visit dealer in the morning. You should mention that there is a tool similar to the tie rod end remover (aka pickle fork) that can be rented from parts store. Once I got this tool and hit with a BFH the axle popped right out. Took all of 1 minute. Never do this repair on a Sunday.
I recently changed my cv joints on my citroen jumpy/dispatch, and just like that strut (in this video) it had two bolts. I Loosened both but only took the lower one out, that way I managed to flip the hub up while sliding out the cv. That kept me from doing anything with the caliper. Also you dont have to hold or lift that heavy part. But of course the steering rack joint and lower wishbone joint had to come of..
Thanks for taking the time to show me your thoughts I have never tried this but i need to see what tools i need I think the wd40 at the clip is my best choice instead of greece Right now i have wd40 and a big rock for tools
The axle nut doesn't really put a load on the bearing like it did on conventional hand packed bearings. So over-tightening will not hurt the bearing. However, if you have a torque wrench at your disposal, there is not reason not to use it.
i replaced my bearings, about a slight step short of this. i took the brake caliper off the rotor to keep it out of the way. that axle looked so much easier to pull out of the rotor than mine was XD
Eli Gomez I have a video on how to replace inner and outer tie rod ends, at the end of this video you can see the link. No crank no start is a good idea I will see what I can do. Thanks for watching
If it didn’t snap in place on assembly would it be hard getting the hub on the other end with extra length that’s not being pushed in? Or will it drive weird if not being in all the way? Hyundai Tucson doesn’t have a splined shift to insert in the transmission. It has the shaft on the transmission and a splined hole on the axle.
Nice job :) Its better\easy to remove lower ball joint to remove CV axle than 2 strut nuts. And remove the strut nuts without marking, the camber will out ( Correct me if I'm wrong :) )
can you reuse the 6 inner flange bolts, the ones that secure the cv axle to the differential, or they have to be changed every time? I have a cv axle to replace tomorrow.
Hello friend! Wonderfully done video... many MANY thanks. Question... How do you know what amount of torque you have used to meet manufacture torque spec? For example... how did you know you did 180?
He used a torque wrench ( ratchet) you can set it to the amount you want and it will "click" when you reach your set torque spec if you listen you can hear it I always do it twice as did he. Hope this helps I know its a old post but what the hey
Mine also had a "balancing" or "vibration" weight part way down the drive-shaft, on the original. But, the new one didn't have this...and the car wasn't balanced during acceleration! It wanted to swerve slightly every time I accelerated. I had to go get another one that was more like the OEM one. After getting the new one, my Honda 1984 Honda Accord was right back to driving straight like before the half shaft was replaced! Just something to be looking out for!
I have a question about a bad cv axle. everytime I turn my wheel left it starts to click so I know it's the axle. But everytime I drive over a small bump it starts to click does that come from the bad axle as well or is that something els with the suspension. Any info would help thank you.
Do you remember torque spec on the strut bolts? Is that the aluminum 1.5 ton Harbor Freight Jack? Looks a lot easier than A1 auto they were beating on control arm to remove it from the ball joint and removing the sway bar control arm link
Why do you have to have the wheel on? Is it bad for the transmission to try taking the axel nut off when the wheel isn’t on and you do it with a breaker bar
Good video. For that top bolt on the strut, shouldn't you mark it before taking it off and then line up the marks when putting it back on to maintain the same wheel camber?
is there a trick to get a stuck cv joint out of the steering knuckle? I live in canada, and the splines male and female are like welded together from the rust. i tried tapping on the cv joint after treading the axel nut flush. i tried a puller-all to no avail. i dont have an air gun. i have a demolition hammer-from doing construction. can i use that? or would the vibrations from it damage the transmission?
I have a 2016 scion iM and the axle WILL NOT come out of the transmission. I need to replace the transmission seal and I tried for several hours to get it out with a long pry bar. I even rented a a slide hammer with an attachment for the inner axle and it hardly fit around the oil filter housing and sub frame. I had no room to use it properly. I have no idea how to get it out without reassembling it and taking it to a shop to fix.
Chowdy Chopz Yes, I have the rapid pump jack works great. When lowering you'll have to go very slow otherwise it will lower the car too fast on your jack stand. Over all good buy for the price!
I've been working on my CV axle replacement, amongst a few other things, all day long and as I sit here commenting, covered in grease from head to toe, I'm staring at my new CV axle that I cannot get to go into the transmission. I've been trying to get it in for an hour now. I've got the transmission end covered I grease, try to insert straight in, wiggle & turn all to no avail. At the recommendation of another, I've even removed the c-clip to decrease its circumference so that it doesn't protrude out from the Axel and still no luck...it returns to its original size upon placing it back on the bar. Several times I've tried using a hammer to force it in but I've only used light taps w/ a regular hammer. Should I use a heavier hammer and put more pop into it? Would this be the solution?
You should be torquing the nuts on the strut bolts, not the bolt heads. If you tighten the bolt heads, you are unable to account for friction along the bolt shaft. Just FYI.
Also, there’s a weird looking O ring, and there’s a new C-clip I have ordered. They insist, you must replace both? So you don’t have any leaks? Every video I watch, no one replaces anything, except the cv axle? Unless you’re not showing the replacement of these 2 parts on the video?
my inner joint passanger side wont go all the way flush. i replaced the old one and it wasnt all the way in. there was a space about half an inch between transmission and shaft. is this normal or it needs to be flush against the transmission?
If you're talking about the axle splines, I wouldn't use anything but transmission fluid. Remember, this is going into the gearbox and any lubricant that is on it will mix with the transmission fluid. Other lubricants may not be compatible with it, which might contaminate the tranny.
You didnt show the output axle seal. Large numbers of ppl on the net wonder why their CV axle leaks and have to do it again. almost no one shows the seal and how to properly replace it
thank you so much for posting this easy video. My 15.5 y/o and I tackled this on Sunday, doing both sides to his car. Took us a little longer to break it loose from the transaxle, but eventually got it. Saved us shop money, and gave him the knowledge and skill to complete the job.
Great video, this is the way an instructional video should be done! Lots of detail and no assumptions about what you have done and where to go next. THANKS!
Eyyyyy thanks man, first time changing CVs on Kia, wasn't sure if it was similar to domestics, turns out it was even easier hahahah pig props for the meat and potatoes of the job, no frilly sweet talking no funny business just straight to the point. Your 4yo video is still relevant today.
Thank you so much for this video. I cannot tell you how much I appreciate it. You saved me alot of money, gave me the confidence to not only do this but also replace my struts at the same time. I tell EVERYBODY about your videos. In other words...YOU ARE AWESOME!!!
One of the best how-to videos I've seen. Very clear and to the point, with no wasted time or any step left out.
I totally agreed, he speaks fast but the clear video illustrated everything you needed to know. Excellent
I’ve watched about six of these procedures on TH-cam. Your video presentation and procedure is by far the best I’ve seen. Good job, and thank you!
thank you so much for making this video. just replaced both cv axles on my 05 elantra and ur method is super easy to do and clear to follow. i managed to finish the job in three and half hours. and comparing w/ other youtube videos, ur method is literally the best and easiest way to do. otherwise messing w/ sway bar, brake caliper and ball joint would be harded to do.
Thank you for providing this & your other CV axle install video. From watching your videos & those of a few others I was able to successfully replace the passenger side CV axle on my 2001 Caravan. I had a Chilton manual to refer to but very seldom did I use it because the videos are much more instructional. One of the other CV shaft install videos that I watched was by Scotty Kilmer who recommends putting grease on the snap-ring end which I tried & it worked very well to help easily tap that end into the trans.
Thank you so much for your descriptive video. i changed my daughters CV axles on her 1999 hyundai mantra sportswagon today and it was straight forward thanks to your video. Greatly appreciated.
Thank you for the video. It was pretty straight forward. Don;t know why people go through trouble of removing lower ball joint arm to do this. It is much simpler using your method. Work smart not hard.
Lower ball joint is easier for me🤷♂️
thanks for using good camera with good focus and good light. It's much easier to remove upper connection (as in the video) rather than lower ball joint in order to replace the cv axle.
+Alex Salo Yes, thanks for commenting. Cheers
Awesome VIDEO - You definitely have the simplest AND MOST STRAIGHTFORWARD way of doing this job. Keep up the good work!
Springfield, VA. USA
Why do I feel like I'm watching an episode of Everybody loves Raymond where Ray fixes his car...
Good video. I'm gonna try to replace mine.
Thank you so much for making this fantastic tutorial! I am having to replace the CV axle on my car and I'm so glad I came across this so I know what to expect.
I'm so jealous of your long handled quarter inch ratchet. That is a sweet tool. You're so damn lucky to have that. Envy Envy Envy😳😩
Wow an arid climate sure keeps the parts clean! That axle nut would have been a solid clump of rust here in IA.
Very informative. I will not be doing my own work on my old Ford van but at least I know more about what my mechanic will be doing when he works on it.
A screwdriver stuck between the brake rotor's cooling fins will prevent wheel from turning while removing axle nut. That way you can jack the car, remove the tire/rim, and still remove axle nut without having a friend holding the brake.
Thanks for the excellent video. You saved me a lot of "colorful" language.
great video young man , very clear an concise
Easiest decision to subscribe ever! Awesome video! And great Chanel!
First Last Welcome aboard, thanks for watching. cheers
Excellent video. I needed to see someone doing this like I will be doing in my garage. Thx
Great video and just the right amount of detail. I may just take this entire job on myself. I hope you have them on the brakes too as I can see where you are taking them off at the same time might as well replace the pads right?
Nice. This'll save me some time in the morning! Quick and easy, I like that.
Great video dude. I wish you were working on an 05 Kia sorento. I'm replacing mine tomorrow and have never done it before. I noticed on your repair, that when the strut mount was disconnected, that would have been a good time to replace the struts.
Pry bar method of popping it out does not always work. I tried this on my Jeep Commander today. All went well until time to pop out the axle. It would not come out. I pried and pried, I actually bent the Axle drive shaft seal and the oil started leaking out. Unfortunately none of the local parts stores had the seal. Have to visit dealer in the morning. You should mention that there is a tool similar to the tie rod end remover (aka pickle fork) that can be rented from parts store. Once I got this tool and hit with a BFH the axle popped right out. Took all of 1 minute. Never do this repair on a Sunday.
I recently changed my cv joints on my citroen jumpy/dispatch, and just like that strut (in this video) it had two bolts. I Loosened both but only took the lower one out, that way I managed to flip the hub up while sliding out the cv. That kept me from doing anything with the caliper. Also you dont have to hold or lift that heavy part. But of course the steering rack joint and lower wishbone joint had to come of..
hey...l am from Malaysia. Great video,thanks a lot.
Thanks for the detailed video. I happen to own the same vehicle as in your video.
Thanks for taking the time to show me your thoughts I have never tried this but i need to see what tools i need I think the wd40 at the clip is my best choice instead of greece Right now i have wd40 and a big rock for tools
The axle nut doesn't really put a load on the bearing like it did on conventional hand packed bearings. So over-tightening will not hurt the bearing. However, if you have a torque wrench at your disposal, there is not reason not to use it.
i replaced my bearings, about a slight step short of this. i took the brake caliper off the rotor to keep it out of the way. that axle looked so much easier to pull out of the rotor than mine was XD
Never put a pry bar against the Aluminum Transmission Case
Put a piece of wood against it or use the proper axle fork on a slide hammer
Thanks man well explained and direct to the point
you make it sound so easy
Great job keep it up only thing doing some with tie rods would be a bigger hassle something time would u make no crank ,no start , no fuel vidz
Eli Gomez I have a video on how to replace inner and outer tie rod ends, at the end of this video you can see the link. No crank no start is a good idea I will see what I can do. Thanks for watching
Good quality video and well explained thanks
Great video, love the 1080p60
AR Motion Design Thanks, yes things are a lot more clear at 1080.
Did he say "wiggle and piss at the same time?" That's new, I need to try that once. :)
Maybe I've been doing it wrong all along.
So helpful! Thanks man 👍👍👍
You are the best bro....thanks a lot!!!
+Andrew Oliver np, thanks for commenting.
if i "mark" the strut bolt nuts (2)remove/replace for reference while removing, will it reduce my need of an alignment by 10%,?--thank you.
If it didn’t snap in place on assembly would it be hard getting the hub on the other end with extra length that’s not being pushed in? Or will it drive weird if not being in all the way? Hyundai Tucson doesn’t have a splined shift to insert in the transmission. It has the shaft on the transmission and a splined hole on the axle.
Hey, great video. Was just wondering where i can find the torque specifications for my 2001 Subaru forester?
Nice job :)
Its better\easy to remove lower ball joint to remove CV axle than 2 strut nuts. And remove the strut nuts without marking, the camber will out ( Correct me if I'm wrong :) )
Thanks for making this video.
it helps to block or shim the front wheel(s) when removing axle nut, (my tire spun and moved entire car forward due to slippery concrete floor)...
thank you, very informative and detailed....
Do you have to do alignment after cause you removed it from the strut I keep seeing people say that
No I don't see why
can you reuse the 6 inner flange bolts, the ones that secure the cv axle to the differential, or they have to be changed every time? I have a cv axle to replace tomorrow.
really cool... exactly what I need to do the job
Hello friend! Wonderfully done video... many MANY thanks. Question... How do you know what amount of torque you have used to meet manufacture torque spec? For example... how did you know you did 180?
He used a torque wrench ( ratchet) you can set it to the amount you want and it will "click" when you reach your set torque spec if you listen you can hear it I always do it twice as did he. Hope this helps I know its a old post but what the hey
thank you, I will go for it, thought it was more difficult. Have you any recommendations for my Kia Sorento 2013?
شكرا على مجهودك
Tanks good video amigo saludes,
Good presentation. Thank you.
cnguyen616 np, thanks for watching. cheers
Mine also had a "balancing" or "vibration" weight part way down the drive-shaft, on the original. But, the new one didn't have this...and the car wasn't balanced during acceleration! It wanted to swerve slightly every time I accelerated. I had to go get another one that was more like the OEM one. After getting the new one, my Honda 1984 Honda Accord was right back to driving straight like before the half shaft was replaced!
Just something to be looking out for!
great video
Thanks mate 😉👌
I have a question about a bad cv axle. everytime I turn my wheel left it starts to click so I know it's the axle. But everytime I drive over a small bump it starts to click does that come from the bad axle as well or is that something els with the suspension. Any info would help thank you.
Can cv axle be removed without disconnecting outer tie rod?
Would this be the same procedure for a 2006 Impala?
Awesome video. Thanks a lot.
Do you remember torque spec on the strut bolts?
Is that the aluminum 1.5 ton Harbor Freight Jack?
Looks a lot easier than A1 auto they were beating on control arm to remove it from the ball joint and removing the sway bar control arm link
+davidst489 never mind, it's done, both sides, costs me $85 , Rock Auto.
Why do you have to have the wheel on? Is it bad for the transmission to try taking the axel nut off when the wheel isn’t on and you do it with a breaker bar
Nice work
Good video. For that top bolt on the strut, shouldn't you mark it before taking it off and then line up the marks when putting it back on to maintain the same wheel camber?
I've also heard too do this before taking it off.. Why though and how do you mark the bolt? Doesn't it go in the same way it came out?
Dr. Octavius is a mechanic too?
My cv axle yoinked itself out whe I was replacing struts. My question is can i still use 5he old cv axle?
is there a trick to get a stuck cv joint out of the steering knuckle? I live in canada, and the splines male and female are like welded together from the rust. i tried tapping on the cv joint after treading the axel nut flush. i tried a puller-all to no avail.
i dont have an air gun.
i have a demolition hammer-from doing construction.
can i use that? or would the vibrations from it damage the transmission?
how long did that side take you?
How do I find out how much I should torque something down?
I have a 2016 scion iM and the axle WILL NOT come out of the transmission. I need to replace the transmission seal and I tried for several hours to get it out with a long pry bar. I even rented a a slide hammer with an attachment for the inner axle and it hardly fit around the oil filter housing and sub frame. I had no room to use it properly. I have no idea how to get it out without reassembling it and taking it to a shop to fix.
Well done..nice camera work.
Question: is your torque wrench a 1/2in. or 3/8 drive?
Saluti.
Mario Dalla Riva Its a 1/2 inch. Thanks for watching.
Is that a Harbor Freight Jack, and if so, How do you really like it ? I'm thinking about getting one
I have one. Real good
Chowdy Chopz Yes, I have the rapid pump jack works great. When lowering you'll have to go very slow otherwise it will lower the car too fast on your jack stand. Over all good buy for the price!
Great video!
xennelul thank you.
If CV axle play does mean is bad ?
Thanks bud. well done
I've been working on my CV axle replacement, amongst a few other things, all day long and as I sit here commenting, covered in grease from head to toe, I'm staring at my new CV axle that I cannot get to go into the transmission. I've been trying to get it in for an hour now. I've got the transmission end covered I grease, try to insert straight in, wiggle & turn all to no avail. At the recommendation of another, I've even removed the c-clip to decrease its circumference so that it doesn't protrude out from the Axel and still no luck...it returns to its original size upon placing it back on the bar. Several times I've tried using a hammer to force it in but I've only used light taps w/ a regular hammer.
Should I use a heavier hammer and put more pop into it? Would this be the solution?
@legendary_ cheez3 Thanks for the tips. I did ultimately get the job done. The difference was the sledge hammer as had been recommended the most.
Sir please help me I alway replaced cv axel every 3monts any suggestions how to fix it thank you
You should be torquing the nuts on the strut bolts, not the bolt heads. If you tighten the bolt heads, you are unable to account for friction along the bolt shaft. Just FYI.
can a bent axle cause a wheel wobble if every thing from wheel balancing and other steering suspension is good ?
yes
Joey P.
4:28 my pry bar isnt working why?
I have a 2000 Chrysler Concorde LXI, 3.2 with a stub shaft, sticking out of the tranny housing. Is it the same process, for replacing the cv axle?
Also, there’s a weird looking O ring, and there’s a new C-clip I have ordered. They insist, you must replace both? So you don’t have any leaks? Every video I watch, no one replaces anything, except the cv axle? Unless you’re not showing the replacement of these 2 parts on the video?
Why do we need to make sure it can move 1:53?
Your only pulling the axle one time in the ownership of a vehicle,
so replace the axle case seal,same for rear drive differential axle
seal
Hyundai Accent same? Drivers side same?
The ring is popping a little too separated, or is that how it’s supposed to be
Cool!! Thanks For Sharing!!
my inner joint passanger side wont go all the way flush. i replaced the old one and it wasnt all the way in. there was a space about half an inch between transmission and shaft. is this normal or it needs to be flush against the transmission?
Flush
Nice job Thanks !!!
great video thank you :)
job well done, THANKS
Why put a manual transmission car in gear first? What happens if you don’t?
Why do I see some people putting white lithium grease?
If you're talking about the axle splines, I wouldn't use anything but transmission fluid. Remember, this is going into the gearbox and any lubricant that is on it will mix with the transmission fluid. Other lubricants may not be compatible with it, which might contaminate the tranny.
because normal grease and other petroleum product can be bad with your rubbers parts with lithium you are sure it will have no réaction at all
i have a 2000 kia sephia and the car make really bad clicking like crunching almost could that be the cv axle
I have one and just replaced both axles.....no more clicking......
Thanks bro
ThankX
Think you for info I need
thanks a lot you are the Hiro
You didnt show the output axle seal. Large numbers of ppl on the net wonder why their CV axle leaks and have to do it again. almost no one shows the seal and how to properly replace it