You should acetone your steel wool too. It's got oil on it to keep it from rusting in the bag...Otherwise, great video! Also, have you looked up traditional rust bluing? If you have an older gun that you want to refinish, but also make the finish even across the whole gun, rust bluing can be done at home, with a relatively small investment and simple tools. It's not nearly as complicated as you would think it would be. I usually reblue a gun, or two, as winter projects, after hunting season is over. Cold bluing definitely is a great option for smaller pieces and quick fixes with good results though!
you re refering to hot bluing by traditional? yeah i looked into it, and indeed some extra step and tool made me tried the cold blue first. So far I've had good result with it. But eventually, when I get a shop or a garage i'll certainly look at it more.
@WildBushGrit There are several different methods to bluing. Hot bluing I associate with a caustic solution that actually turns the steel blue (not parkerizing though. That's different all together). What I consider "traditional" bluing is controlled rusting with steam (and a rusting solution), then boiling the parts in plain water to turn the red rust into black "rust". Its actually very easy to get good results. Mark Novak has some great videos on it, if you're interested!
Good video nice job. Years ago I did an older surplus military rifle in a similar manner and it worked out well. Good idea of using the finest steel wool to apply the bluing. Thanks just a good vid
I reblued a single shot shotgun. No steel wool, sand paper. Using finer grit as i went. About had it looking like Chrome. Applied cold blue 3-4 times till it was black. Wiped it down with some Kroil looks like black chrome
Never seen the paste before, didn't even know it was a thing! I've never used the steel wool to apply the bluing liquid, definitely like the results, but how much do you think was the steel wool vs the paste?
I just find the liquid to be slower at darkening and need more work overall. The paste is also instant, I even use it on my knives. Maybe a different brand would give better result, the ones from Brownell seems to work really fast.
my biggest complaint about cold blue, is you can rub it off with your thumb. I turned a barrel back and instead of hot blue, I used cold. I can remove it very easily with friction from a finger BUT it does hold oil and it does prevent rust. I just have to re-apply it after aggressive cleaning. I used cold blue in industry with the same result, it looks good going out of the shop but it had no wear resistance, but it will hold oil. Rustoleum or paraffin worked well.
Your finger?!?! I never had something like that, it will wear off with long term rubbing, but even my knives hold up pretty well. How are you degreasing your barrel? Cheers mate thanks for the comment, I'll look into hot bluing, i guess it would be very close to parkerization.
@@WildBushGrit I used G96 which is available in Australia. The industrial blueing was from Caswell Plating. They both use selenium. It is microns thick. Hot blueing is much deeper. I use caustic wash followed by isopropanol to prep, and always warm the part. I have tried to do it twice but once it is done, the paste does no more. Parkerising is a deeper treatment, done that on machine tools and hand tools. I prefer to nickel plate if I can. Rust blueing I have not done at this point.
That restoring method is not proper in this case, or even harmful to antiques. You irreversibly make a great damage to original, proper bluing. Now it is just blacked, with mediocre durability and rust resist, comparing to bluing. In that case, only thing you need to do is just degrease boil that barrel in tap water for about 30 min and wipe surface with fine steel wool. Rust on steel surface will convert to black oxide when is exposed to moisture and heat...
You should acetone your steel wool too. It's got oil on it to keep it from rusting in the bag...Otherwise, great video! Also, have you looked up traditional rust bluing? If you have an older gun that you want to refinish, but also make the finish even across the whole gun, rust bluing can be done at home, with a relatively small investment and simple tools. It's not nearly as complicated as you would think it would be. I usually reblue a gun, or two, as winter projects, after hunting season is over. Cold bluing definitely is a great option for smaller pieces and quick fixes with good results though!
you re refering to hot bluing by traditional? yeah i looked into it, and indeed some extra step and tool made me tried the cold blue first. So far I've had good result with it. But eventually, when I get a shop or a garage i'll certainly look at it more.
@WildBushGrit There are several different methods to bluing. Hot bluing I associate with a caustic solution that actually turns the steel blue (not parkerizing though. That's different all together). What I consider "traditional" bluing is controlled rusting with steam (and a rusting solution), then boiling the parts in plain water to turn the red rust into black "rust". Its actually very easy to get good results. Mark Novak has some great videos on it, if you're interested!
@@m73m95 Oh I'll look into it! thanks! for the tips, one more reason I love the comment section lots of great tips/info! :)
damn! I never knew who Mark novak was, th-cam.com/video/_nWVI_3Lo0Q/w-d-xo.html thanks again!
Good video nice job. Years ago I did an older surplus military rifle in a similar manner and it worked out well. Good idea of using the finest steel wool to apply the bluing. Thanks just a good vid
Great job it looks good. Thank ya
I reblued a single shot shotgun. No steel wool, sand paper. Using finer grit as i went. About had it looking like Chrome. Applied cold blue 3-4 times till it was black. Wiped it down with some Kroil looks like black chrome
Never seen the paste before, didn't even know it was a thing!
I've never used the steel wool to apply the bluing liquid, definitely like the results, but how much do you think was the steel wool vs the paste?
I just find the liquid to be slower at darkening and need more work overall. The paste is also instant, I even use it on my knives. Maybe a different brand would give better result, the ones from Brownell seems to work really fast.
my biggest complaint about cold blue, is you can rub it off with your thumb. I turned a barrel back and instead of hot blue, I used cold. I can remove it very easily with friction from a finger BUT it does hold oil and it does prevent rust. I just have to re-apply it after aggressive cleaning. I used cold blue in industry with the same result, it looks good going out of the shop but it had no wear resistance, but it will hold oil. Rustoleum or paraffin worked well.
Your finger?!?! I never had something like that, it will wear off with long term rubbing, but even my knives hold up pretty well. How are you degreasing your barrel?
Cheers mate thanks for the comment, I'll look into hot bluing, i guess it would be very close to parkerization.
@@WildBushGrit I used G96 which is available in Australia. The industrial blueing was from Caswell Plating. They both use selenium. It is microns thick. Hot blueing is much deeper. I use caustic wash followed by isopropanol to prep, and always warm the part. I have tried to do it twice but once it is done, the paste does no more. Parkerising is a deeper treatment, done that on machine tools and hand tools. I prefer to nickel plate if I can. Rust blueing I have not done at this point.
That restoring method is not proper in this case, or even harmful to antiques. You irreversibly make a great damage to original, proper bluing. Now it is just blacked, with mediocre durability and rust resist, comparing to bluing.
In that case, only thing you need to do is just degrease boil that barrel in tap water for about 30 min and wipe surface with fine steel wool. Rust on steel surface will convert to black oxide when is exposed to moisture and heat...