Yea. I only use this as a last resort for very pitted spots that I really don’t want to completely reblue the whole rifle. Or if a customer doesn’t want to pay for a complete rebluing of an otherwise good gun.
check out my video "Coating buffing wheels for polishing - Turnbull custom guns" th-cam.com/video/nbTvEscCCwg/w-d-xo.htmlsi=921FQuvqpEDb1cYk and "Preparing a gun for bluing Part II - Remington 742 carbine" th-cam.com/video/qkXsB6EL7XM/w-d-xo.html
Another thing one could do afterwards is degrease the entire barrel and give it a few coats of boiled linseed oil. Iron workers that build yard art have been protecting metal for decades with it.
Also heating the metal prior to bluing increases its durability. Don't cook it, about 150°F is all that's needed. Propane torch and laser temp sensor helps a lot.
Nope. I do however use heavy coats of compound that usually holds the top separations in the muslin together on the polishing surface. It's not as hard as a stitched because it has some flexibility under the compound since the 8" behind it is not bound together like in a stitched.
I removed rust from a barrel that was about that bad using only steel wool and it took all day then I cold blued it and 5 years later you still can't tell the spot was there
The spot will stand out in about 10 to 15 days and it will always stand out. You have to re-blue the entire barrel to have the bluing look good. I have seen these cheap techniques many times before. If you want it done right you have to find the guy that only does repairs the right way.
As I mentioned at the start and the end of this video. This is for the person that can't get to, or afford a professional bluing service. I do outline the way we would repair rust and caustic hot blue firearms in our shop in the following videos, th-cam.com/video/Cm58xhFqsiI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Uspjo1bjpAr5adEw th-cam.com/video/qkXsB6EL7XM/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/vrIcusaJEkg/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/X3vRS5BibC8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=kaySeJcbhMY-mihS feel free to check them out. As always thank you for your comment.
Of course you can just chelate the rust completely off by soaking it in a chelation solution. This way no base material is removed until you're ready for a full repair.
Yes that will remove the rust, and on some guns that may be all you want to do to stop it from progressing... but your barrel will still have the pits from the rust. In order to remove the blemish made from the rust all you will need to remove the base metal repolish and re-blue the metal. Thanks for your comment.
Lol. I'm just the opposite. The smell is linked to the tradition for me. If I could find flannel like they used to wear back in the 30's-40's I'd be in heaven.
Excellent work, for a quick and painless process. Easy steps, nothing difficult.
Thank you for your support!
Hey could you do a video on how the slug a barrel to see if it is shot out , before taking it to a gunsmith and wasting his time ?
Nice job, Don!
Thanks
Rig works good,takes a bit of elbow work but is effective.
Good info. I have about a half dozen like that I need to get to. Lol
Yea. I only use this as a last resort for very pitted spots that I really don’t want to completely reblue the whole rifle. Or if a customer doesn’t want to pay for a complete rebluing of an otherwise good gun.
Thank you
Can you talk more about your buffing wheels and compounds?
Great job on the videos!!!
check out my video "Coating buffing wheels for polishing - Turnbull custom guns" th-cam.com/video/nbTvEscCCwg/w-d-xo.htmlsi=921FQuvqpEDb1cYk
and "Preparing a gun for bluing Part II - Remington 742 carbine" th-cam.com/video/qkXsB6EL7XM/w-d-xo.html
Very Impressive!
Thank you!
FYI hoppes 9 oil is good but trans fluid will take more rust faster than anything I’ve used
Something about the detergents in trans fluid are stronger
I'll have to try that. Thanks for the suggestion.
I use dawn, comet and a little water mixed together as a paste and gets the rust and grease off. Also use totally awesome and it gets them clean.
ATF is also in RED'S (diy) bore cleaner.😊
Thanks
No problem, thanks for watching and your support
Has anyone tried Evapo Rust?
Another thing one could do afterwards is degrease the entire barrel and give it a few coats of boiled linseed oil. Iron workers that build yard art have been protecting metal for decades with it.
I was surprised by how effective the steel wool was at blending in the new bluing
Yea. Cold bluing plays all kinds of visual tricks as it takes to the metal.
@@Turnbullcustomgunscold bluing does much better with the the finer grits and apply with 0000 steel wool
Also heating the metal prior to bluing increases its durability. Don't cook it, about 150°F is all that's needed. Propane torch and laser temp sensor helps a lot.
@@withoutprejudice8301 Good point. Almost like a shortcut to a rust blue. Thanks for your comment.
That 320 grit wheel looks like it's stitched.
Nope. I do however use heavy coats of compound that usually holds the top separations in the muslin together on the polishing surface. It's not as hard as a stitched because it has some flexibility under the compound since the 8" behind it is not bound together like in a stitched.
I removed rust from a barrel that was about that bad using only steel wool and it took all day then I cold blued it and 5 years later you still can't tell the spot was there
The spot will stand out in about 10 to 15 days and it will always stand out. You have to re-blue the entire barrel to have the bluing look good. I have seen these cheap techniques many times before. If you want it done right you have to find the guy that only does repairs the right way.
As I mentioned at the start and the end of this video. This is for the person that can't get to, or afford a professional bluing service. I do outline the way we would repair rust and caustic hot blue firearms in our shop in the following videos, th-cam.com/video/Cm58xhFqsiI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Uspjo1bjpAr5adEw
th-cam.com/video/qkXsB6EL7XM/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/vrIcusaJEkg/w-d-xo.html and
th-cam.com/video/X3vRS5BibC8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=kaySeJcbhMY-mihS
feel free to check them out. As always thank you for your comment.
There's a forest in those trees, somewhere. Keep looking...
Of course you can just chelate the rust completely off by soaking it in a chelation solution. This way no base material is removed until you're ready for a full repair.
Yes that will remove the rust, and on some guns that may be all you want to do to stop it from progressing... but your barrel will still have the pits from the rust. In order to remove the blemish made from the rust all you will need to remove the base metal repolish and re-blue the metal. Thanks for your comment.
Can't stand the smell of hoppies on my hands
It is hard to get off for sure. Gloves help but doesn't elevate it. Thanks for watching
Lol. I'm just the opposite. The smell is linked to the tradition for me. If I could find flannel like they used to wear back in the 30's-40's I'd be in heaven.
Another good video for the person who wants to do stuff at home. 👌👍🦬
Thanks 👍