I recommend to strenghten the front axle. It’s too weak even when the stock motor lays on it and the car is driven hard. They break at the point where the engine mounts are. We drive them with special reinforcement plates here in Germany at the Nürburgring. In USA Garagistic for example is offering reinforced front axles. I would highly recommend doing that mod.
i use one of those hydraulic carts at work often. I use it to remove piston compressors for refrigation systems. the compressors themselves are usually V4 or W6 piston compressors and weigh 300-400lbs. That cart is a must, along with a boom truck
I've taken off many of these stubborn pulleys. What you need is a Snap-On Chain Wrench. Be sure to use an old piece of a serpentine belt to protect the pulley from being marred from the chain wrench. Has never failed me.
I had a supra long ago. I ended up grinding the head off the crank bolt completely off carefully and it spun out by hand when doing the timing belt. Used an older used grinding disc that was small enough to fit inside the balancer, took about 20 minutes.
For removing the crank bolt on a Miata, I attached a long breaker bar, rested it against the ground and bumped the starter. The bolt came loose right away. Just be sure it is positioned on the right side or it will hit your body when you turn the car over.
You guys should consider a hydraulic brake booster, driven off the power steering pump. Pretty popular solution for the off-roading community - the booster-pumps are significantly smaller than traditional booster systems - and provide a whole lot more brake boosting. Will definitely need some stronger brake lines than any oem rubber hoses to handle the added pressure, and higher temp-rated fluid.
Going from the K-Swap videos to this, it's literally amazing how much easier it is for you to do engine work when you have the right tools like the lift and the cart and what not. That's a lesson by itself.
From my experience, I found heating the pulley bolt with blow torch, using impact wrench and then also breaker bar with a chain and bolt on the holding the crank from sling at the rear main worked well :)
New(er) subscriber. Learned about this build from a fellow ///M owner, and so glad they shared the link. Very entertaining & informative. Great work on both sides of the camera.
Never, never, never put grease on the input shaft splines like that. Even if you don’t screw your clutch by contaminating it with grease creeping out the disc, you will have problems as the grease attracts dust as the clutch wears. But what do I know, I have only been doing this for 40+ years.
Power steering reservoir is going to get in the way of your intake manifold. Oh yeah, and it might get very hot. Unless you’re doing an oil cooler, should have kept then Toyota oil cooling system. Many of the aftermarket ones leak. Get a hose from a GS 300 coolant line to resolve that rear coolant line issue on the top of the engine.
@@paulcopeland9035 I don't even think the after market oil cooler is going to be as effective as the stock one. Better yet, you should look at me do the same thing in a older, and smaller BMW.
Yeah you ideally heat up the threaded area or material surrounding a bolt so it expands around the bolt. Sometimes that's not a practical option. If a bolt is held in with threadlocker or crap, sometimes heating it up to expand the bolt, then letting it cool and shrink could help break the bond
You can get a lower water neck rotator. Companies like Power house racing or drift motion sell them. A way you can crack the balancer bolt is have a breaker bar on there against the floor and quickly hit the starter motor
4:20 It will come off with a big enough powerful enough Impact Wrench. You can rent them. I know Milwaukee makes industrial size units. But that would really be the answer if all else fails. Hey is that an E28 I spy in the background? What's the scoop on that baby?
Even 1J crank bolts are a pain in the rear to take off. My most successful method is a the longest chain wrench you can find and 36 in breaker bar plus cheaters on both.
It's worth noting that when lubing an input shaft care should be taken to not overdue it. You obviously do not want grease or any lube getting onto the clutch disc. That is a quality grease I very much like, but I prefer to use a small amount of antisieze, i think that it's let's likely to "melt" under heat then a grease.
@@UndeadCrook definitely! And mind you the twin turbo setup they removed adds another 25~30 kgs. Also the S54 is 10 years newer and internals and valvetrain were lightened from factory to be able to rev it @ 8k.
I wouldn't dent the booster. I don't know anything specific to bimmers, but I know boosters from like 80s Toyota pickups seem to be pretty commonly used on alot of vehicles where more clearance is needed. Maybe start by just looking at boosters from other bimmers first
To break loose tough nuts use a hammer! Get a breaker bar with a large flat section above the socket that you can strike with a hammer while putting load on the fasteners. The brake booster diameter generally applies more force to the brakes the larger it is. On a turbo engine swapping out to hydro boost may be a better choice. Otherwise the booster off the Toyota donor vehicle is probably the right size and may fit the BMW.
Fold the serpentine belt into itself and just brace the engine. there will be enough friction between the pulley's to get that bolt removed. I tried the starter trick on my GS and it didnt work so i mechanically locked the serpentine belt and it came off with a decent amount of force.
chasebays do a brake booster eliminator kit, i have seen a relocation kit for an e30 that mounts the booster into the glove box mind you they where on the rhd vehicles but it could prove relevant if you can find the forum post
I've seen people relocate then foward, looks hideous to me but it works. But putting it in the glove box on the opposite side of the car?? I'd hate to see the linkage on that setup lol
@@chickenfishhybrid44 rhd e30s have the booster on the left hand which is painful in the sence exhaust manifolds on bmw slants are on the right hand and would allow room for a booster which would mean space for itbs, custom manifolds, etc..so what ever way you look at it you will need to fabricate something to keep your booster regardless so relocating it into the cabin isn't that much of a step backwards.... I've also heard 2001 reno Clio boosters can be made to work dunno if it's enough for a 2jz but worth a look
chickenfishhybrid44 so..... the only difference is the steering wheel position and uni to the rack....... which would mean that apart from the steering components and the addition of the linkage for the braking system, these are the only difference, obviously interior pieces etc..... but you're missing the point in the rhd e30s they have a linkage yes, which means the booster sits on the firewall in front of the glove box and there is a relocation bracket made to move the booster inside the cabin rather than remove the booster, Now this isn't going to bolt into an e46 m3 But it shows what is plausible in relocating it for their application..... Is it worth the time and effort probs not...
When the audio cut out at 3:20 I was like, what’s wrong with my phone, and then proceeded to spend 5 minutes trying to figure out why my phone sucks. Lol
Go with a booster delete ..... you can get masters that still retain oem drive ability while deleting the booster..... check with like ap racing or willwood .... heads up not cheap though if i remember right
So since you’ve dealt with csf and koyo, what would you recommend? I had a csf on my old 350z and now I’m looking for a rad for my new 350z and can’t decide between the csf again or trying the koyo
Aren’t you trying to make a thousand hp out of that thing? Your going to blow that clutch away before you even make enough power to meet your goals. Torques going to be well above the limit on that clutch.
Corey Pearson a thousand horsepower 2j wouldn’t likely last long or be very drivable in a road course car. I’d imagine their goals are much more modest.
@@randoman75 They said this project purpose is to make an ultra fast - highway roll racing style - street car to go after supercars, therefore the 1k hp goal. I was sceptic too when saw it was a single plate clutch and given the torque rating I agree with corey that if their hp goal is achieved that clutch is not going to hold.
Karl Taht yea that’s something else I didn’t bring up. Their target is super cars. Which are going to absolutely walk all over a 5-600 whp 3 series. End of story. They’re going to need into the 800s to handle what they’re targeting. That clutch will be at its absolute max torque limit at those ratings even with boost by gear. They made the wrong choice for their application. Just like they made the wrong choice by not opening that jz up and taking care of a few preventative things.
For the brake booster issue, have you considered a hydraulic brake booster? I had to remove mine in my rx7 when I did my Ford v8 swap, I still haven't put something back in...but I have thought about using a compact hydraulic unit. The footprint is quite a lot smaller, you may have to run a different power steering pump. Chevy puts one on its LM truck engines.
When M3 do a Clutch fan Delete go with a Big Boy Fan Puller and Plug a n Play the other fan ! Everyone says it works ! Wondering what fan you are going to Use ?
I don't want to be a hater but those mounts really feel like a miss. They position the engine back which I get is good for weight savings but makes everything else about the swap very "sloppy" feeling. If they positioned the engine close to an OEM location, so much less modification would be required. The chassis was already designed with a similarly sized engine with similar weight, even if the motor was 1" forward it would be a bust on the balance of the car. If this was a stripped out race car, then yeah, definitely the right way to go, but for this streetable E46 "supercar", I don't know. I love what you guys do, but it seems like a misstep guided by a sponsorship deal.
Doing swaps like this you will always run into space issues. If they moved it foward you could possibly have issues with clearance for the oilpan to subframe and various other things. Sometimes you just gotta pick a direction and deal with what comes. I'm sure getting bolt in mounts for free or cheap is also a nice thing when spending this kind of coin. What's really sloppy so far? Trimming some sheetmetal around the booster and denting the tunnel that you will never see? All pretty standard stuff when doing weird swaps.
You guys should just spend the extra money and build an S54, at the end of the day, is the flow of the head and how strong the crank is(if you want to keep the S54 crank).
Good luck! Btw you’re going to want a custom fab to support the front of that differential. Terrible design with one little screw in type bolt hole that’s suppose to hold all the torque. Even with a rear diff brace by SAAD racing, the second you have any wheel hop that front bolt will 100% break. Every other 3 series had two passthrough mounting points for the diff. And the more obvious note where it all bolts to eventually rips the whole frame out 😂 terrible design on a beautiful car.
I recommend to strenghten the front axle. It’s too weak even when the stock motor lays on it and the car is driven hard. They break at the point where the engine mounts are. We drive them with special reinforcement plates here in Germany at the Nürburgring. In USA Garagistic for example is offering reinforced front axles. I would highly recommend doing that mod.
i use one of those hydraulic carts at work often. I use it to remove piston compressors for refrigation systems. the compressors themselves are usually V4 or W6 piston compressors and weigh 300-400lbs. That cart is a must, along with a boom truck
I've taken off many of these stubborn pulleys. What you need is a Snap-On Chain Wrench. Be sure to use an old piece of a serpentine belt to protect the pulley from being marred from the chain wrench. Has never failed me.
Dave is such an expert at lubing shafts.
I had a supra long ago. I ended up grinding the head off the crank bolt completely off carefully and it spun out by hand when doing the timing belt. Used an older used grinding disc that was small enough to fit inside the balancer, took about 20 minutes.
For removing the crank bolt on a Miata, I attached a long breaker bar, rested it against the ground and bumped the starter. The bolt came loose right away. Just be sure it is positioned on the right side or it will hit your body when you turn the car over.
You guys should consider a hydraulic brake booster, driven off the power steering pump.
Pretty popular solution for the off-roading community - the booster-pumps are significantly smaller than traditional booster systems - and provide a whole lot more brake boosting. Will definitely need some stronger brake lines than any oem rubber hoses to handle the added pressure, and higher temp-rated fluid.
Get an 85 Mercedes 190D brake booster. Its what the ls e36 guys recommend, if you're going with a smaller booster. Or hydroboost, that'd be cool.
Going from the K-Swap videos to this, it's literally amazing how much easier it is for you to do engine work when you have the right tools like the lift and the cart and what not. That's a lesson by itself.
From my experience, I found heating the pulley bolt with blow torch, using impact wrench and then also breaker bar with a chain and bolt on the holding the crank from sling at the rear main worked well :)
New(er) subscriber. Learned about this build from a fellow ///M owner, and so glad they shared the link. Very entertaining & informative. Great work on both sides of the camera.
Never, never, never put grease on the input shaft splines like that. Even if you don’t screw your clutch by contaminating it with grease creeping out the disc, you will have problems as the grease attracts dust as the clutch wears. But what do I know, I have only been doing this for 40+ years.
Nice job! I especially enjoyed the super subtle partially silent camera slider timelapse!
DP uses gloves to remove gasket material, uses bare hands to apply lube. HAHA
21:30 Pete has the skills to notch the corners and weatherstrip the fan. It will look clean; send it.
Power steering reservoir is going to get in the way of your intake manifold. Oh yeah, and it might get very hot.
Unless you’re doing an oil cooler, should have kept then Toyota oil cooling system. Many of the aftermarket ones leak.
Get a hose from a GS 300 coolant line to resolve that rear coolant line issue on the top of the engine.
You need to watch the oil cooler part of the video.
@@paulcopeland9035 I don't even think the after market oil cooler is going to be as effective as the stock one. Better yet, you should look at me do the same thing in a older, and smaller BMW.
Seeing u guys do the belts on the 2jz reminds me of my 2jz too.great job guys.
That inductive heater is going to do nothing to that bolt except make it larger . . Nuts not bolts .
It’ll only work on a bolt to break the rust .
Kirsty Sinclair thanks for the tip!
Spot on, if you want to attack a bolt with temperature treatment try using a freezing spray. May just heĺp
Speed Academy if you haven’t cracked it yet see if a friendly plant mechanic can lend you his 1” Dugga Dugga and sockets !
Yeah you ideally heat up the threaded area or material surrounding a bolt so it expands around the bolt. Sometimes that's not a practical option. If a bolt is held in with threadlocker or crap, sometimes heating it up to expand the bolt, then letting it cool and shrink could help break the bond
You can get a lower water neck rotator. Companies like Power house racing or drift motion sell them. A way you can crack the balancer bolt is have a breaker bar on there against the floor and quickly hit the starter motor
Coming along well! Don't forget those bumper support foam blocks or the front bumper WILL NOT fit flush and have panel gaps!
4:20 It will come off with a big enough powerful enough Impact Wrench. You can rent them. I know Milwaukee makes industrial size units. But that would really be the answer if all else fails. Hey is that an E28 I spy in the background? What's the scoop on that baby?
I was gonna do work at work today, but I have to watch this video first!!!
Haven't even had my e46 for a month but I'm. Contemplating this exact build
13:47 Put something that fits snug inside the tube and drop it into the height you would like the bend. Then, bend it gently.
Dang it looks awesome!! I hope you get a big front mount!! Also why does this video only have 30k views!!!!
For the coolant line that wraps around the block, you can use a 2jz-ge one which only mounts to the left side of the block instead of cutting it.
I used a 3/4” impact gun to take off the crankshaft bolt. Took it off with a single blip of the trigger lol
Even 1J crank bolts are a pain in the rear to take off. My most successful method is a the longest chain wrench you can find and 36 in breaker bar plus cheaters on both.
Get yourself some Chase bays brake booster delete kit it’s affordable and provides all the room you need for your turbo manifold.
It's worth noting that when lubing an input shaft care should be taken to not overdue it. You obviously do not want grease or any lube getting onto the clutch disc. That is a quality grease I very much like, but I prefer to use a small amount of antisieze, i think that it's let's likely to "melt" under heat then a grease.
I feel like that clutch wouldn’t be strong enough, but I’ll wait and find out since the jz putts out a lot of torque
Did you happen to weigh both engines? I’m curious if the Toyota engine is heavier than the BMW engine.
Also interested in this
2JZ weighs 230kg (507lbs) and the S54 is 217 kg (478 lbs)
@@ricks_toys Impressive weight saving with the s54 and they are both using cast iron block.
@@UndeadCrook definitely! And mind you the twin turbo setup they removed adds another 25~30 kgs. Also the S54 is 10 years newer and internals and valvetrain were lightened from factory to be able to rev it @ 8k.
Should have let the bmw engine in it
I used a jeep Cherokee upper radiator hose for the lower hose. It had the bend just right with some trimming of course.
I wouldn't dent the booster. I don't know anything specific to bimmers, but I know boosters from like 80s Toyota pickups seem to be pretty commonly used on alot of vehicles where more clearance is needed. Maybe start by just looking at boosters from other bimmers first
To break loose tough nuts use a hammer!
Get a breaker bar with a large flat section above the socket that you can strike with a hammer while putting load on the fasteners.
The brake booster diameter generally applies more force to the brakes the larger it is. On a turbo engine swapping out to hydro boost may be a better choice. Otherwise the booster off the Toyota donor vehicle is probably the right size and may fit the BMW.
I would go with an aftermarket intake manifold so that you can clear the brake booster. Great build!
will the e28 be getting the motor from the M3
I'm wondering that too. Should be easy to put in I think it will need a M50 powered E34 oil pan and pickup
Need some updates on the Celica
This is awesome work guys!
Phr have radiator neck adaptors that rotates the lower neck. C.x. racing sales and shorten version of the lower neck too if u want to save some money.
you gotta use box tubing when you make a stopper like that. Flat steel will always bend.
Fold the serpentine belt into itself and just brace the engine. there will be enough friction between the pulley's to get that bolt removed. I tried the starter trick on my GS and it didnt work so i mechanically locked the serpentine belt and it came off with a decent amount of force.
chasebays do a brake booster eliminator kit, i have seen a relocation kit for an e30 that mounts the booster into the glove box mind you they where on the rhd vehicles but it could prove relevant if you can find the forum post
I've seen people relocate then foward, looks hideous to me but it works. But putting it in the glove box on the opposite side of the car?? I'd hate to see the linkage on that setup lol
@@chickenfishhybrid44 rhd e30s have the booster on the left hand which is painful in the sence exhaust manifolds on bmw slants are on the right hand and would allow room for a booster which would mean space for itbs, custom manifolds, etc..so what ever way you look at it you will need to fabricate something to keep your booster regardless so relocating it into the cabin isn't that much of a step backwards.... I've also heard 2001 reno Clio boosters can be made to work dunno if it's enough for a 2jz but worth a look
@@sageboostfreak right, but this is a LHD E46 lol
chickenfishhybrid44 so..... the only difference is the steering wheel position and uni to the rack....... which would mean that apart from the steering components and the addition of the linkage for the braking system, these are the only difference, obviously interior pieces etc..... but you're missing the point in the rhd e30s they have a linkage yes, which means the booster sits on the firewall in front of the glove box and there is a relocation bracket made to move the booster inside the cabin rather than remove the booster,
Now this isn't going to bolt into an e46 m3
But it shows what is plausible in relocating it for their application.....
Is it worth the time and effort probs not...
When the audio cut out at 3:20 I was like, what’s wrong with my phone, and then proceeded to spend 5 minutes trying to figure out why my phone sucks. Lol
same lol
thought my headset died XD
I adjusted my volume like 5 seconds prior and ultimately had to rewind to realize that that was not why I'm crazy. 😂😅
Also thought my headset broke
ya, i restarted my browser on PC :D
Somebody needs a 3/4 impact 😎 and 3/8 hose and fittings 😉
Look up 2jz crank pulley bolt removal belt method. I've used it to removed a shit load of them.
Go with a booster delete ..... you can get masters that still retain oem drive ability while deleting the booster..... check with like ap racing or willwood .... heads up not cheap though if i remember right
Probably best to get a smaller booster for the brakes. Haven't seen many or any clearanced boosters unsure the viability.
Part 10 soon?
So since you’ve dealt with csf and koyo, what would you recommend? I had a csf on my old 350z and now I’m looking for a rad for my new 350z and can’t decide between the csf again or trying the koyo
Aren’t you trying to make a thousand hp out of that thing? Your going to blow that clutch away before you even make enough power to meet your goals. Torques going to be well above the limit on that clutch.
Corey Pearson a thousand horsepower 2j wouldn’t likely last long or be very drivable in a road course car. I’d imagine their goals are much more modest.
@@randoman75 They said this project purpose is to make an ultra fast - highway roll racing style - street car to go after supercars, therefore the 1k hp goal. I was sceptic too when saw it was a single plate clutch and given the torque rating I agree with corey that if their hp goal is achieved that clutch is not going to hold.
They are targeting like 5-600whp is my guess. Unopened 2J, so 1000whp reliability doesn't seem realistic.
Karl Taht yea that’s something else I didn’t bring up. Their target is super cars. Which are going to absolutely walk all over a 5-600 whp 3 series. End of story. They’re going to need into the 800s to handle what they’re targeting. That clutch will be at its absolute max torque limit at those ratings even with boost by gear. They made the wrong choice for their application. Just like they made the wrong choice by not opening that jz up and taking care of a few preventative things.
Yeah. I don’t know what I was thinking. I’m sure they have no idea what they’re doing and you do.
just call up the deboss garage, doesnt he have that big milwaukee 1 inch impact, use that gun to take that crank bolt off
For the brake booster issue, have you considered a hydraulic brake booster? I had to remove mine in my rx7 when I did my Ford v8 swap, I still haven't put something back in...but I have thought about using a compact hydraulic unit. The footprint is quite a lot smaller, you may have to run a different power steering pump. Chevy puts one on its LM truck engines.
When M3 do a Clutch fan Delete go with a Big Boy Fan Puller and Plug a n Play the other fan ! Everyone says it works ! Wondering what fan you are going to Use ?
great episode in a great series!
Smash the booster. It’s never failed me so far!
DP loves slapping shafts
You will need a after market intake to clear the brake booster properly
In hindsight do you wish you should have rebuilt the s54 and single turboed it?
This series and finding nicks drift m3 is probably the most series I constantly watch compared to the other series out there
20:35 ho is calling?
i vote to trim the fan shroud and have those two fans on there. maybe make a custom shroud and bracket
Clearance the booster maybe try cutting out the hump and putting a new bit
Someone should introduce them to weighted impact sockets for that crank pulley bolt. Takes it off with 3 ugga-duggas
Are you guys planning to keep the OEM steering rack or swap it for the faster zhp setup? OEM has a ton of lock but will have you hand over hand
The booster can be disassembled and notched
Can you do an internal brake booster set up? Wildwood pedals and a stabilizer bar?
wow man!! Fantastic
I don't want to be a hater but those mounts really feel like a miss. They position the engine back which I get is good for weight savings but makes everything else about the swap very "sloppy" feeling. If they positioned the engine close to an OEM location, so much less modification would be required. The chassis was already designed with a similarly sized engine with similar weight, even if the motor was 1" forward it would be a bust on the balance of the car. If this was a stripped out race car, then yeah, definitely the right way to go, but for this streetable E46 "supercar", I don't know. I love what you guys do, but it seems like a misstep guided by a sponsorship deal.
Doing swaps like this you will always run into space issues. If they moved it foward you could possibly have issues with clearance for the oilpan to subframe and various other things. Sometimes you just gotta pick a direction and deal with what comes. I'm sure getting bolt in mounts for free or cheap is also a nice thing when spending this kind of coin. What's really sloppy so far? Trimming some sheetmetal around the booster and denting the tunnel that you will never see? All pretty standard stuff when doing weird swaps.
Up the boys
I would see if a performance intake manifold would clear the brake booster.
It's crazy at how well you guys seem to be with rusted and broken bolts lol! Not like mechanics and enthusiast in the south in the u.s. haha
8mm thick gloves... what are you guys working on there.... radioactive waste?
8 mil is 0.008 inch, not 8 mm - 8mm would indeed be some beefy gloves
Time to man up and get a 3/4” impact
You guys should just spend the extra money and build an S54, at the end of the day, is the flow of the head and how strong the crank is(if you want to keep the S54 crank).
My vote goes to smaller brake booster. You have the upgraded brakes to make up for the lack of extra boost.
Also did you use loctite on the flywheel bolts? The thread section on the crank is exposed to oil and can leak if you dont.
I must have missed him do it cor the fly wheel bolts. I saw him do it for the pressure plate.
Would an aftermarket intake manifold fit better?
This is just like watching one long advert
That crank pulley really pulled your crank. 🤔
A modified BMW S52B32 with lower compression pistons would give you more power than 2JZ ... A Ford Barra on the other hand would be interesting....
8mm thick gloves? You sure are ready for Canadian winter.
Would a aftermarket intake manifold work?
HAMMER TIME!
Can you mount the fans in front? make a pusher.
When is the next episode coming?
Why not just start with an is300?
What's up with the E28 with the Alpina spoiler?
Maybe borrow the big ass 1" Milwaukee impact Dboss has
“This washer sits perfectly on this bolt. Look, it’s like it has been made to fit this” ~the guy with the beard
Call Debossgarage he has that crazy 3/4" and 1" Milwaukee impact.
Ironic, putting in a 2JZ in a BMW to be a supercar killer and yet Toyota decided to put in a BMW engine into the new Supra, go the logic on that one.
Good luck! Btw you’re going to want a custom fab to support the front of that differential. Terrible design with one little screw in type bolt hole that’s suppose to hold all the torque. Even with a rear diff brace by SAAD racing, the second you have any wheel hop that front bolt will 100% break.
Every other 3 series had two passthrough mounting points for the diff. And the more obvious note where it all bolts to eventually rips the whole frame out 😂 terrible design on a beautiful car.
Wind tunnel tested for efficiency and wants to fit a massive shrouded fan set up🤣🤣
Why not just use the factory BMW radiator fan infront of the rad? Simpler and more bay room.
Brake booster delete. Check chase bays
aftermarket intake plenum?
11:08 - that's what she said. LOL
How about making some mechanics gloves for merch ??
Use a e90 booster its much smaller