Ultimate BMW M3 Rebuild - 2JZ Swap Dyno Disappointment - Part 20
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ก.ย. 2024
- Our ultimate E46 BMW M3 2JZ Swap Supercar Killer rebuild continues as we hit the OnPointDyno to see what kind of power the 2JZ M3 makes.
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Love how real this episode was. Lots of others only posts “the wins”, but this is reality right here, great job guys! Inspiring
I agree. Only failure without learning is true failure and we're here to learn from the Speed Academy
During engine swap:
*I think we are gonna take the chance*
After engine swap:
*I dont wanna take any chances*
Don't sweat it Pete. Problems with swaps will ALWAYS arise. Btw I'm dumbfounded you guys don't have more subs. Been watching for years, you deserve more.
100%!!!
Time to do some collaboration with some big channels maybe like hoonigan, tj hunt, mighty car mods?
Couldn’t agree more.
Other TH-camrs: fix a fender and throw on a supercharger.
Speed Academy: $5000 neglected M3 to 1000hp 2J super car killer.
Because their personality are boring but what they work on is really interesting
@@ameenr9129 hardly
Great progress here. I hope the community realizes how important it is to own your mistakes and keep moving forward. This makes your channel a huge benefit to those who are trying to learn! It's pretty rare to see nowadays and as we all know, pride has never fixed a car :)
I actually love seeing the issues you guys run into, makes me feel more confident working on my own car. Most other channels will just show you a perfect build with little to no issues, or fix them off camera and just give a passing mention. Seeing that even the pro's run into problems or make mistakes just goes to show how complicated cars are and no one is an expert at every single thing. Keep up the great work!
Quick tip for making sure boost couplers seal.
Use hairspray on the aluminum and the rubber couplers. It will tack up and dry to a stiff holding type hold. Works great on any boosted application. Kind of an old school trick I learned from older dsm guys
Ha ha, it is also a track from the mountain bike world to hold grips onto handlebars
Mistakes happen, this was a great reminder to double check work and make sure you take your time.
Another great quality production! So much win!
That's the heater control valve, without it you're just going to have a constant flow of hot coolant.
When you said it was easier on a 2jz than an S54 to pull the timing cover for a front main leak, the S54 chain is in the oil reservoir, so the seal is behind the aux crank pulley, much easier job to swap 😉
This man said it best. The heater control valve is responsible for stopping or allowing hot coolant flow to the heater core. If you delete it, then your heater core will be hot 100% of the time. Some cars, in my opinion, are poorly designed and operate like this.. the older Miata for one. Then you wonder why the car blows warm air even though you set it to COLD. Only time you actually get cold air is when the A/C is active. Obviously, installing a heater control valve is the right way to go.
In addition, don’t forget that there is the temperature control valve dial between the central vents in the dash.
Short answer: the e46 needs that doohickey in the engine bay.
except there's no good way to change a S54 front main seal with the engine in the car. You have to ghetto rig a system to drive the seal in, there's not enough room to hammer. I have a DIY saved in my imgur if anyone's interested...
I appreciate how honest you guys are. Mistakes happen to everyone, good to see you guys admitting to them and correcting them. In fact- I had the same thing happen with a charge pipe on a friends car. Couldn't figure out what the problem was for a while. Finally stepped back, thought about it and took the bumper off, Yahtzee!
Keep up the great work!
As you’ve heard, yes you need that heater valve. What I didn’t see is that it also has to be installed with the right flow. I had heat at idle but none at higher RPM. If the flow of the coolant is the wrong direction I think it shuts the valve. When I reversed the hoses to the unit it was magically fixed. Keep up the good work, and remember you learn the most from mistakes!
These videos are what make you guys relatable for me. Seeing you cringe while you show what you forgot, i know that feeling 😑👍
As a few have said love the fact you show the lows as well as the highs. People get such a wrong view of dyno tuning and think it’s just half a dozen “power runs” and that’s it done. But the reality is hours of part throttle tuning to make it drivable and then tune the wide open throttle.
I really love how sweet and gentle you guys are. I feel like you guys have never ever had an argument. You're both so easy going.
Hi guys, great video series. Regarding the heater water valve. It's an integral part of the heating system. BMWs don't have hot/cold flaps in the heater. Air always goes through the heater core. Instead they use this water valve to proportion the amount of hot/could within the cabin. It uses duty-cycle to achieve desired temp in the heater core. Fully closed is cold only. Fully open is hot. Any other temp you can hear valve tick every few seconds. The valve you have is a combo valve and aux pump. The pump helps water flow to the heater core to get heat to the cabin as quickly as possible. Normally it's put on diesel BMWs and I guess cold climate BMWs as well. If space is an issue, there is a valve only option. Your valve has 2 cylindrical shapes. The bigger is the pump, the smaller is the valve it self.
I hope you'll find this helpful. Looking forward for more projects like this :)
Cheers :)
Props to you guys for showing the mistakes you made. I feel like some channels would cut that out, but you guys keep it real.
I love all your videos, you guys keep it real and admit when you’ve done something wrong and show where u went wrong so others don’t do the same! All your builds are awesome! Keep it up 😊
Adding a port for the smoke machine onto your boost leak tester is the ultimate testing tool! Pressure and smoke will make it super easy to locate.
You guys are doing exactly what I wish I could be doing and I've been dreaming about, I've been binge watching this entire series and I can't get enough
G'day Dave and PT, I Just thought that I would comment to let you guys know that you are doing an amazing job keeping up the content and making awesome videos! I also want to say that despite the problems to stay positive! 👍 these things happen. It is not about the weight of the load, but how you carry it.
I can't speak for everyone but personally I am more than happy to wait for content than see you guys stressing or beating yourselves up over the pressure of producing content by a set time.
The swamp monster will live in time, you guys rock!
Thanks for the kind words. The stress is real and if the TH-cam algorithm wouldnt dictate so many videos we’d slow down a bit!
Great to see you're using a proper boost leak tester now! Spraying soapy water on all your connections and weld points on the intake side will reveal your issue way more quickly and reliably. Trust me when I say feeling and hearing for leaks will only go so far! Also, your target boost pressure should be your MINIMUM boost leak test pressure target. Don't be afraid to add a couple more psi just to check! On the topic of hose clamps, I found that nothing beat good ol' $1 home depot worm gear clamps. They're one time use, but the breeze, murray, t-bolt, etc style clamps never worked as reliably on my stock STI. The frustration of chasing boost leaks was worth just sticking to worm gear clamps and chewing up the hose over time! AMS performance uses home depot worm gears on their 1600hp+ GTRs too...
Thanks for sharing the lows as well as the highs when building a car. Love your videos!
This is what the reality is...which I think people are really missing especially as more and more of the complete build in 10min video time lapses are more and more prevalent. Of course we don't enjoy making these kinds of mistakes, but props for being humbled by it, showing how to deal with it, and just allowing failure to drive you forward.
Yes, you need those valves for HVAC to work properly.
actually you can delete this additional pump or replace it with the M54 valve. there are some discussions on the m3forum that you can read with google cache like this one.
webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:2OxWVTDmH1EJ:www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php%3Ft%3D491609+&cd=1&hl=de&ct=clnk&gl=de
@@christosk3976 You can buy valves without the pump, but you still need those valves.
100% replace the cam seals and the front main those are known on jzs to leak
Thanks for showing us a video of things going wrong. Keeps things honest. This build is incredible.
Love that you guys show the mistakes. It helps everyone avoid making the same ones.
Instead of waiting for an O-ring from Toyota, why don't you try to match it up with a A/C O ring (Nitrile -Green) which can be found in a lots of metric sizes.
My concern would be getting the sizing spot on. I cant risk it leaking again due to an improper oring
Bring your old o-ring to your local parts supplier and see if they have one of those o-ring sizing tools (it's like a shaft with steps in it), be sure not to stretch the o-ring when removing it. And like Shawn said look at the color to see what material it is. Love the channel 😁
www.amazon.ca/Sizing-Kit-King-USA-Identification/dp/B07NF69ZG7/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=o-ring+gauge&qid=1584244711&sprefix=o-ring+ga&sr=8-5
Like one of these
You probably need Permatex non-hardening sealer. It's fairly common on these kinds of bolts (the one on the side).
Whenever I run into a problem like with that oil pump plug I consult either a service manual or any kind of documentation I can find on the internet. Been bit a couple of times taking advice from forums and other word of mouth type things. Exploded views of stuff are awesome as well to really learn how something works or for hidden mechanisms.
Don't sweat the mistakes, they happen. The only thing you can do is fix them and move on.
For these "older" engines - Look into "gasket reconditioner" such as Omega Seal Saver 917, add about 3% of the total oil capacity of the car. Run it warm 5-7 times, and it reconditions most gaskets in the car, such as front/rear main seal, and makes the leaking stop. Then you can run 1% all the time to keep them nice and soft. This is by far easier than changing the front main for example. I have done some tests on stiff rubber hoses, and after a few days they are like when using this additive.
That really sucks that you guys had that all going on after the dyno, but honestly this series got a lot more interesting to me. A lot of youtubers don't show their problem solving steps. I'm currently rebuilding a z31 replacing almost everything, so I know I'm going to inevitably going to have problems too. Keep up the good work!
Beating yourselves up way too much. You guys are out here doing amazing stuff. I love how honest and real you guys are. Keep it up.
Sounds good with the 2jz!!! Super bummer of these issues you had!! Can't wait to see the videos of this all fixed!
There’s another heat setting on the dash!!!! Like a wheel you spin from red(hot) to cold(blue). The temp wheel is between the middle 2 dash air vents that blow to the driver and passenger
He’s right. I just got an e46 and it seems to be a weird feature of these cars. The center vents can blow any temp air you want completely independent of the HVAC control setting using the wheel in between the vents.
Also, I believe the coolant device you omitted is a coolant pump. I’m not entirely sure of the real purpose but I know it runs with the key on and the heater on, even when the engine is off. It can help bleed air out of the cooling system. Probably not necessary on the 2jz.
I am absolutely obsessed with that car! It’s so beautiful and the best of all things great. This is a dream car of mine. I bought an E46 sedan to make a good all around budget daily, unfortunately money is always an issue with me and it’s taking FOREVER to get anywhere with the build! I am a huge fan and love what you guys are doing with this car!
Look at this guy taking responsibility for his mistakes. Congratulations. Most people will try to wiggle out of every little mistake they’ve made in their life.
That coolant valve? It is controlled by the automatic climate control and controls how much coolant goes through the heater core. If you want anything other than 0 or 1 heat, I would put that back in. Otherwise, it's just controlled by a 12v signal. Unplugging it will keep heat from going to the heater core at all and is what I do with my old E28 since the heater core leaks.
Caption should be "BMW super car killer rejects Toyota heart"
I hate seals failing after pulling an engine. It happened one too many times so now I just replace all of them and be done with it. Much happier now :)
Your work is fantastic, but I find your video's so dry an lengthy sometimes. But I really enjoyed how real this one is, great to see the trouble shooting and issues that came up along the way. cheers!
I think it's really rad how Peter always has a smile on his face, even when they run into issues with a car. You can tell he genuinely loves cars.
Pull the hex plug. If the treads are pitched. Then use Teflon (PTFE) tape on the treads, then pipe thread sealant. Blue monster Telfon tape and Permatex is my favorite
Thanks for showing mistakes and issues during the build! It makes the whole process feel more relatable and real.
Bought my 1st BMW in 73 , 17 yrs. OLD . OLD Timer said it meant "BAD MAN'S WHEELS" He was Right👈😆 Nice RIDE
On a plus note, it sounded damn good. Bodes well for the future. The bumps in the road just make for a sweeter ending when it all comes good. And it will. Keep up the awesome work. You guys make great content.
The side ports (hex plug) use thread sealer on them.
Honestly at this point adding a new or even better a modified new oil pump would be my choice and would solve all of your leak issues and add some peaceof mind for oil psi etc. Powerhouse racing makes a nice unit with the proper mods to help retain the front crank seal also.
Since your in the engine that far if you purchase a new pump adding a billet timing idler arm would be a no brainer it's a common failure point to consider .
Awesome episode. Having all these little discoveries while diagnosing and fixing your car is one of my favorite parts of wrenching.
the thrills and spills of working on cars. keep the fate
Nice to see the mistakes and the corrections, cheers guys
Love how candid you guys always are with these builds. Respect for showing the difficult side of a build!
Well Done, Thanks for Showing the Process and also the Mistakes and or Issues.
Good Stuff
A humble man owns his mistakes - Pete broadcasts them to TH-cam so that we can all learn. Thanks for keeping it real. Don’t get discouraged - look how far you’ve come, you guys are so close to the finish line now.
In the nicest way possible it's so refreshing to see you guys fail. Too many TH-camr's have these perfect error free builds and it can be quite dis-heartening to us 'hobby mechanics' who make some errors. Great to see you finding issues and having to work to sort them out :)
Love how real you guys are. Good job on owning your mistakes
Glad you guys are showing what it’s really like to build a high power car, keep up the great work!
This was a great episode! Showing the reality of things creates a connection to anyone who works on cars. 10/10 keep showing mistakes.
Fails are great. They actually are more like what we all face when we work on our projects.
Let me tell you guys one thing: the test with airpessure won't work like you'd expect, if there is at least at one cylinder with both valves (inlet/outlet) open at the same time. The pressure will be directed to the exaustsystem.
Writing this before I even saw the hole vid...
Keep up the good work! :) love the channel!
We always move the crank a bit to dial it in to have the least amount of leakage
If you’re having oil pressure relief valve leaks wouldn’t that mean maybe you’re having high oil pressure? I’d look at turbo oil feed and drain, make sure they’re not swapped or just double check everything oil related, just to avoid any oil starvation. Good luck guys, keep up the amazing work, cheers!
the best way to find any small oil leak is using an UV dye, just clean a little bit before around those spot, chuck some UV dye inside the engine then use an uv light, easy as
Hey guys regarding the heating valve, it is actually controlling the heat inside and i have a few comments about it. can you run it with the new 2jz ready wiring loom? and if you have the opportunity to change that part itself PLEASE do it, they are very prone to cracking the plastic parts (dont ask me how i know) and they dont like "leak" but they "crack" and throw coolant everywhere. cheers from Colombia!
If you´re already at it,I would change front main seal and also camshaft seals,they are prone to leak and it´s better to be safe than sorry. Anyways,love the build,it´s amazing.
Thanks for showing the trials and tribulations. Great video! I look forward to the next one!
Pete: removes heater tap.
Also Pete: Fuck me its hot in here.
Love you guys. Keep up the great work!
Love the content. Not an expert, just thinking that if an intake valve was open you would not hold pressure in your test. You might check for hissing at your tailpipe, or air could get past your rings and into your crank case as well. Keep it coming!
Next time you pressure test it, use soapy water in a spray bottle. Not all air leaks you will be able to hear.
Shit happens guys, hopefully others see this and know to do 100,000kms service kit when they get a used engine.
It's good that you show the fails too. We all do it.
The only bad part about doing the service on a used motor is having to find out you've spent money on new gaskets only to realize the motor you bought is junk. I guess it's a gamble either way.
Make sure to replace that o-ring with a Viton o-ring which is both heat and chemical resistant. This is similar to the problem that plagued my M3 S54 Constant Pressure Valve and my Mercedes Sprinter oil cooler.
Again super build! Just noticed that the aluminum belly pan is not installed. Not sure if you uninstalled for the oil leak. It attaches to the lower ball joints, the chassis and the subframe. It's an important part and strengthens the suspension/chassis especially when tracking the car.
Yep, it’ll go back on before this sucker hits the road. Kept it off cause I had a feeling we’d be digging around under there...
@@speedacademy gotcha! I only mentioned because I've seen other e46 M3s without them. Just wanted to make sure you had it on for the track. Keep up the vids. Great content!
Props to you guys for keepin it real. Just makes for better entertainment vs everything going smoothly haha.
Like being in the garage with you guys, all the small shit that goes on after a big job. Pressure testing, finding oil leaks. Good content guys
For the heater, look into the Final Stage Resistor as well, it's a pain to get to under that dash, but that could be part of the heat problem.
The vvti pulley can be taken apart and has an o ring inside that leaks like hell around 100K. It’s more common than you think.
It's very interesting seeing the trial and error that goes into building a car, especially one of this caliber. I'd still say you guys did a great job overall I really like the way the car turned out.
Karma for swapping out the S54 😆jk guys you’ll figure it out
Do yourself a favor with boost leak testing and use first the smoke tester to fill the System with smoke and then pressurize it, so you can actually see the leak instead of trying to track down the hissing.
Thats the hotwater valve you had in your hand. If you dont want the heat your will need that in there. The HVAC system in the M3 isnt the most fun to get to or work on either.
keep it up guys you`re doing great
Oh i remember Sasha’s Killer Z! Thanks for keeping it real!
I like watching problem solving.
Still believe that turbo S54 supercar killer would be more unique
You have to put the heater control valve back in. It will never switch back from heat to ac.
TH-camrs make great mechanics on their own stuff. Making mistakes and not checking your work is really novice stuff, it's nice you don't have customer that rely on you for their vehicles to be fixed correctly. It's a really really nice thing that you don't have an aviation channel.
This video quality is soo good
Should’ve done a brand new oil pump and wouldn’t have to worry about this!
Keep up the good work boys
sfayer90 oil pump isn’t the problem
SXE10CHRIS Well to start its most likely 20 years old. And second the two seals that are leaking are on the pump itself, which would’ve been avoided with a new one
I know it’s too late for anyone to see this but it’s not a good idea to boost leak test through the turbo. The turbo will spin with no oil that way
Tuner send me home with my car 3 times before actually dynoing the car 😅 but after fixing all issues i did i 440whp @17psi on datsun 510 sr20det.
Keep up the swaps stuff will always come up👍
At 6:58 There's a backed out bolt on the black metal pan above his head. Don't want that flying off and hitting a tire at high speeds.
Oooh, that see through timing chain cover is sweet.
On the intake camshaft adjuster, you may want to replace the seal too. You are not supposed to, but you can, I did it on my 2002 is 300, thanks to freed engineering.
i enjoyed the video while eating my "all dressed" chips and i have a few tips for your guys...soap and water in a spray bottle helps find air leaks. anytime you get a used engine and it's out of the car, replace all seals and wear items cause if it's worth building, its worth over building! i get to dyno tune my car on the 16th that i've been building for the last 6 years. maybe I'll get to drive it to the speed academy one day💪
Ya man that's the heater control valve and with it deleted the hot coolant will always enter the heater core
Definetly deserve more subs. Great content. Sadly majority of TH-cam car channel subs are 16 year olds that like INSANE FITMENT videos
I’m glad you found your issues, if you’re having to do a bunch already might as well pull that intake manifold off and fix it properly
puts motor in BMW instantly develops oil leaks hahaha 😆 it was meant to be 😂
The BMW leaky oil curse lives on!!
For the ps pump, I would use this, loctite 569 it's meant for sealing high pressure hydraulic lines, I used it for my -12an fitting for my turbo drain into the oil pan. Hasn't leaked since I put it in.
The heat on, its a BMW guy lol
Refit the heater control valve, plumb it in series with the heater core and plug it back into the car and the system will work. Hopefully you didnt remove those plugs/wires. The larger grey part is a recirculating pump and the smaller grey part is the solenoid itself, remove and inspect the rubber diaphragm inside that solenoid as they tend to fail causing the heat to stay on.
Thanks! Will check the solenoids to ensure they are working
You guys are amazing. Keep showing us the good and bad! ;)
might as well change the damper at this point, the rubber in that oem one cracks and the top of the pulley flies off. put a ati super damper there instead.