When Why and How I clean and apply PTFE Lube on my FEP
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ม.ค. 2021
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PTFE Lube: geni.us/PTFELube
Alternate Options that may be easier to find internationally:
Rain-X: geni.us/RainX
WD40 PTFE Spray: geni.us/WD40PTFE
Microfiber Clothes I use: geni.us/DisposableMicrofiber
Nitrile Gloves: geni.us/MedPrideNitrileGloves (I use these when I need to be able to feel the texture and tackiness of items, like feeling if the FEP is smooth here)
Rubber Gloves: geni.us/RubberKitchenGloves (I use these for handling my printer build plate to remove models and a separate set I keep cleaner for removing supports after
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First up, should you use PTFE Lube? Is it required? No, it isn’t. But I do think it helps. In this video I cover When I use it, Why I use it, and How I use it. First I go through my process of cleaning the vat and getting it ready so you can take advantage of the benefits of PTFE Lube.
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If you found this helpful you can now Buy Me a Coffee (or a bottle of resin): www.buymeacoffee.com/TrueElit...
PTFE Lube: geni.us/PTFELube
Microfiber Clothes I use: geni.us/DisposableMicrofiber
Nitrile Gloves: geni.us/MedPrideNitrileGloves (I use these when I need to be able to feel the texture and tackiness of items, like feeling if the FEP is smooth here)
Rubber Gloves: geni.us/RubberKitchenGloves (I use these for handling my printer build plate to remove models and a separate set I keep cleaner for removing supports after
If you have already ruined your screen check out my post about how to fix it. Video coming soon. www.elitegeek.net/how-to-fix-t...
Anycubic Photon Mono-X: geni.us/AnycubicPhotonMonoX Printer Shown here
My Water Washable Resin Rankings: www.elitegeek.net/water-washab...
Elite Geek Current Giveaway: geni.us/EliteGeekGiveaway
I use it religiously. Great vid except NOT ONE lube joke. Disappointing... (lol)
From your previous video I ordered online ($7 ish) and found it at, in the USA, the BLUE "L" store for $3.50 ish.
Keep up the great videos.
Thanks for a very helpful video! I can't find that 3 in 1 stuff anywhere (at least in my province) do you k kw of any alternatives?
this is just dumb, no one needs ptfe on fep, all you do is masking your poor settings
along with contaminating resin and clouding fep
I use it all the time and also heat my build plates with a hairdryer prior to pressing start for about 45 seconds. No failures in years. Great stuff.
Next time a part sticks to your FEP, try this instead of scraping: hold the vat so it hangs vertically and thump/flick the part with your finger from the underside of the FEP. Most times, it'll just fly right off with no scraping after a few good thumps. If it doesn't fly all the way off, it'll usually at least detach, making it easy to pick up with the scraper.
I will try that.
@@tek9058 shit that's a big brain play right there.... while the rest of us smooth brains are scrapping this man and his "I forgot to use fabric softener" Wrinkled brain, making big plays.
@@TrueEliteGeek did you ever try it? how did it work for you
Watch out for flicking too hard. You could deform your fep. 👍
I just press lightly on the bottom and it unsticks it and u pull it right off. Prefer to do this with thicker fails because fep clean is thin and cracks trying to peel the bigger fails creating more of a headache!
I'm just starting to learn about resin printing. Thank you for posting this video. You have added to my FEP education. I've probably already buggered up my original but you can't make an omelet without breaking a few eggs.
Used paper towels all the time, first FEP survived for 80+ prints. Started using PTFE after the new FEP sticking, worked like a charm.
Fantastic video and thanks for so much for taking the time to provide this advice! Will definitely be doing this!
I picked up some 3-In-One PTFE from Lowes. I use it every time I clean the resin vat and have not had a print stick to the FEP since. Thanks!
I love your videos. They are really informing and well put together. Keep it up!
Very informative video! Was exactly what I was looking for. I just got my Mono X and hade 3 failures on the test print. Thank you!
Just ordered a voxelab proxima and have already watched a lot of your videos. Thanks!
Waiting on my mono x to get in. Good info, already have the ptfe lube, good to know it can be used to help clean the fep. Also gotta get some of those disposable microfiber sheets.
Just purchased a Photon S, so looking for all the hints I can find. Great video, thanks!
6:20 for those interested just in the application of the ptfe lube
To remove a failed print, just place an old support in the vat and turn on the screen test for a few seconds, then you can peel out the cured thin layer with the support. You don't even need to empty the vat.
A piece of paper works too if you threw away all your old supports.
great idea. I always have the rest of the resin on the foil. I lost a lot of toilet paper in it. I don't use fep, but the packaging from petek, it is flexible and works (other foils crack).
Thanks for the info, my first resin printer was the epax e6 and my next one I'm getting ready to purchase is the Voxelab Proxima 8.9 4K printer.
Thanks, I've been wondering how to best apply the oil and this was helpful. Also the disposable mf wipes is a great tip. On the cleaning side, a tip: a flexible rubber kitchen spatula is great for getting that last bit of liquid resin out of the vat before you start cleaning. Less liquid still in the vat makes the wiping down part much easier and faster.
I’d like to see a glass front on the resin vat, so maybe you could see if your print was failing before the plate clears the vat. If you could see, it might save a little time, resin, and wear and tear.
on most printers you can pause the process and the plate raises for you to check
@@thelateone1468 Thanks. My printer does have this option. The one time I used it, it left line in my print.
I usually like to listen out for the FEP "fop" sound especially during my first few layers so that I know that the print hasn't detached from the build plate but at the same time my FEP gets a big old crease in the middle after just my first print which is really annoying considering the time it takes to replace it! So I might invest in some PTFE lube to hopefully stop this happening. Also, thanks for the tip on the microfiber disposable towels. I'll pick some of them up also!
I tried this when I stumbled across it on Uncle Jessie's channel. I'll need to try Rain-X as neither are overly expensive.
this is a great tip, thank you for posting it, I tip that REALLY helps remove the PART from the BUILD PLATE, is to put the build plate with the part still on it, in the freezer.
I didn't find this 3-In-One PTFE Lubricant, but I tested with regular WD-40 and it worked well too! Only problem is with WD-40 I was able to do 2 consecutives prints only, then I had to remove all the resin, clean the fep, and apply it again....
What a cool little tip, adding to the list, thanks!
Thank you so much ! This is loads of help !
If you gently press up on the bottom of the FEP under the failure when you have one the piece will usually pop off fairly easily. No need to use the spatula, or if nothing else not as much effort to remove with it.
i find that pushing with my finger on the bottom of an edge of the failed print will cause it to loosen much easier. Then use the plastic scraper to lift the edge you already loosened.
Freeze spray, like they use on circuit boards, works great for removing failed prints from the fep, and the build plate for that matter. Never seen anyone do it but it's pretty great.
Do you do that after cleaning the vat? I would think that could cause the resin to splatter.
@@TrueEliteGeek oh ya not while there is liquid resin, you are right that would be bad 😆
I would suggest coating only one side of the FEP with PTFE lubricant. Then, print the same model on both sides. You can compare the results to see if the PTFE lubricant helped in any way.
Thanks for doing this video! I've been preaching this for a long time now because I believe it's totally worth while. I normally use Rain-X on my FEP but I do have a bottle of the 3-in-1 PTFE lube so I'll try it out and report back which i think is better. The Rain-X works really well and is simple to apply from the spray bottles it usually comes in.
Hey ! Curious to know what your observations are between PTFE Lube and Rain-X :)
Hi, can we get update,? I'm wondering about buying rainx or this 3 in 1? Have a nice day
Got an update?
Still no update?
safe to say he did not report back
I use tub o wipes it pulls resin right off works great
I just got a new resin printer and plan to use this before putting any resin in it.
Nothing should go on the FEP but resin. That's like using cooking oil on Teflon. If your print is sticking, your bed and/or print settings are incorrect. Foreign material (Oil) will migrate to the plate through the resin and cause further issues. Now you have oil in your resin and prints that wont stick to the build plate.
You cook food with no oil? hmm, sounds like a terrible plate of food. A chicken breast in a dry pan. lol.
Here is some cooking advice th-cam.com/video/ktVSavCov9Y/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for the tip. I just bought a Anycubic Photon Mono 6K and am getting a lot of prints sticking to the PTFE. The printer is so new extra vats are not available. I have not found replacement PTFE sheets large enough so far to replace it.
I have changed resins, bottom exposure times and neither have helped. Hopefully this will do the trick.
I got me one a couple of days as well... did the cube test print. Which was fine. Then did two of my own prints which failed and the resin stuck to the FEP. Ruined the FEP after removing the resin. Found new FEP screens on amazon though. So I ordered 4 Anycubic Photon Mono X FEP Films. So I have some spare in case I ruin another one... lol
Your intro got me thinking -- This sounds like the guy whose video I used when I replaced my Taranis X-Lite gimbal and switch...
Hi @DroneRacer101. Thanks for your very helpful videos - on two of my hobbies.
The bench should look familiar. :-D
@@TrueEliteGeek That was the clincher. Thanks again.
Kimwipes are a good product for delicate cleaning and wiping tasks. Used them for years to clean optics and etc, and they're fairly cheap and available everywhere.
What I use to remove stuck cured resin, is a medium toothbrush. Usually, it is quite easy to get a few strands of the brush under the failed print, and from there, I just lift is up. This works better because you don't have to worry about poking the FEP and destroying it.
That's awsome! I'm going to try that.
Isn't a toothbrush too abrasive? If a soft paper towel would damage it..I can't imagine a tooth brush doing any better? I have 0 knowledge on this. Just wondering
@@ashchan30 I've never had a problem with them, and they've never left a mark.
I use Scott blue shoptowels. Disposable, exceedingly soft (feel like soft cotton), but I'm not entirely sure they won't put some small scratching on the FEP. At least, not enough that it's obviously scratching it. They're basically paper towels, only they feel like they're soft cotton felt or something.
Also, for others; I just realized some gloves are actually nitrile/vinyl, and the resin soaks through them. It does not on the pure nitrile gloves. I also happen to have the same linked above, and those don't have that problem. So be careful you get proper nitrile gloves like the ones linked in the pin.
I had been using long SUPER thick rubber gloves and I'm pretty sure it had soaked through them as well. I have replaced them with long chemical resistant nitrile gloves and think they are much better.
@@TrueEliteGeek Was pretty gross when I pulled my hand out of the gloves and they were covered in tacky resin. Thought it was just a little hole somewhere, but it happens every time. No issues with the proper only nitrile gloves. And I've even gotten a hole in them, and still had no issues.
Just got my resin printer to go with my fdm. I'm so going to try this. Thanks from Boston and stay safe.
I suggest putting '3D printing' or 'resin printing fail' in the title. Great video!
i came looking for this because i've been trying all day to get a batch of models with a lot of fine details printed. they need to be done with small supports to avoid obscuring detail but unfortunately, they keep sticking to the FEP and pulling away from them.
hopefully this solves it, Will report back with the results!
some lock-oil is ptfe based, i use some random ptfe stray ive had for years. just spray some on a piece of papertowel and carefully smear it around, then i let it dry, but yeah the microfiber wipes is better, paper scratch
Use a spray, skip the towel.
@@johgranger1304 months later and it still looks like new, i think the trick is to just be careful with things.
I bought a voxelab proxima customer return for like $70 it came with a torn fep. I used a laminator photo pouch and then used regular 3 in 1 without ptfe, I am running my first print and i can hear it working!! WTF!! my first print! working fine!
Awesome video and thanks for the tip BUT do we have to use only that brand? or can be something like PTFE Super Lube? 3 in One PTFE Lubricant is almost impossible to find in Canada
thanks!
PTFE is the genetic version of Teflon. Teflon is a DuPont product. I use DuPont Teflon lubricant and it works great. It's also more readily available and cheaper.
I am new to resin printing. Had no idea that was a concern!
It isn't. Using lubricant on the FEP is hiding bad settings. If you get your settings right, which is essential for a good detailed print, you don't need to add a lubricant to the FEP. Can imagine how much trouble you'll have if the lubricant transferred to the build plate? Just lower your lift speed to allow the print to peel away from the FEP instead of being snatched off ;-)
i know many may not read or see this but i have a very small vat and i will normally will use..{of all things} toilet paper i have found that they work very well for me and a single roll will last me for a long time about more longer then what i may normally use for it on my self
And on the whole pretty good
My wife and I cut up old worn out clothes into rags. i find old t-shirts work really well, and I have no problem throwing them out. Cotton balls work well, too, providing you don't catch any fibers between the fep and the tank walls. That's a bugger to pick out.
I wonder if ceramic coatings would work. I have some left over from putting it on my car. Need to test how hydrophobic coats work with resin
I’ve done it and it can work. Ceramic coatings have silicon dioxide in them. Some dental resins for veneers and denture teeth have silicon dioxide also so they will bond to the FEP, but if you aren’t using any nano-ceramic resins it works. I used CarGuys Jet Seal as it’s a polymer that sticks to everything…including the print. I used TAC Systems Moonlight for my printer that doesn’t make anything to go into the mouth.
Thanks for sharing. By any chance do you have any extra lube?
I've used the gloved finger on the back. Works 99% of the time.
Hello! I'm new to 3D printing. What about putting your container with your FEP directly into a wash and cure machine? Thanks for your vids :D
Well you _could_ so long you don't do the cure part. Washing would probably work yes. IPA may contribute to the FEP getting cloudy so I would not leave it in for too long.
But people usually don't do that because off the huge contamination and waste of IPA it represents. Imagine a whole 5litres contaminated each time ? Rince it once or twice and the IPA gets sticky and doesn't wash property. You'll probably then would need many bath from old to new IPA just like is done for washing prints... You really don't want to put it back on the machine with a thin film of resin that could not wash property. Gigantic consumption of IPA ahead. Meanwhile gentle wipes would do ya.
How often do you re-apply the PTFE to the FEP?
Thanks for the video. But do you install the screen protector instead of this method or do you put PTFE on top of it?
The screen protector and the PTFE lube never come into contact. The screen protector goes on the screen under the vat. The ptfe lube goes in the vat.
I'm sure the microfiber towels help with longevity, but I'm not sure how necessary they are. I use regular paper towels from the grocery store, and my prints still look great. I've probably cleaned my current vat's FEP sheet at least 25 times, and I'm sure it has plenty more cleaning ahead. I'll definitely look into that PTFE lube though.
It’s going to take a longer term test but I plan on using paper towels on one printer and microfiber on another for cleaning to see if I can tell a difference long term.
Try a spray.
I drain/strain resin and clean out my vat after every single print using 9x9 polyester all purpose clean room wipes, it's been about 18 months with same FEP sheet and looks clear as new, with just a few light surface swirl marks. YMMV.
Paper towel is abrasive. Wipe on plastic and look at the shine. Usually you can see micro scratches from the paper towel.
I've been watching a lot of resin videos lately and everyone always talks about how awful isopropyl alcohol smells to them. I guess I didn't realize how desensitized to it i was from using it tons on electronics and just normal cleaning but the resin and any plastic solvent smell really gets to me.
Same here. IPA just smells every-dayish
I have used Rain-X on the FEP and it works as well in case anyone was curious.
thank you i ordered a rain x as i cant find 3 in 1 ptfe anywhere
whats ur application process tho
@@richieyumnam8646 About the same as in the video. Make sure it's very clean before hand. Less is more. Spread it around and clean up afterwards.
@@mattfrench4504 alrighty rain x for the win
One other on youtuber simply said that lube is unnecessary as FEP has already a low friction ratio. And a google search says the coefficient is at 0.2. While PTFE can be between 0.05 till 0.4.
Also, the term for a coating the FEP with PTFE is 'adsorbed'.
Huh, I had forgotten the distinction. Thanks!
Have found that cleaning the fep with microfiber cloth then add some alcohol and clean again, then -
sprayway glass cleaner (not too much- just get the end of a wadded 1/4 microfiber sheet - the rub )to get rid of residual haze- alcohol with microfiber cloth for some reason leaves a haze sprayway completely gets rid of.
The the 3 in 1 ptfe needs to be used very sparingly or it leaves a hard to remove residue and I can't wait more than a minuite or it is VERY HARD to get off.
BUT using the above procedure, my fep is as clean as ever has been and the lubricant seems to leave a smooth slick surface.
My 2 cents
If you are still doing giveaways of the 3in1 I'd like to enter. In Canada it'd quite expensive to get this stuff. Like $40 + shipping.
Thanks for sharing this
Another great video. Seems that ptfe lube isn’t available in Australia. I tried silicone lubricant and it doesn’t seem to help... doesn’t make it worse, but basically no change.
WD-40 make a PTFE spray which I've found in Bunnings and a couple other places. It might be worth a try.
FYI for any others Aussies looking for it..... Nulon PTFE dry lube from Supercheap Auto.
can you also use this on the Z-axis guide rod/bar?
I was using paper towels to clean up for a while and notice that they definitely scratched the FEP a bit - mine are a bit cloudy, as well. Your FEP looked a bit cloudy as well though - at what point will haze/scratches begin to affect the quality of the prints?
Just got my first printer and I scratched my FEP right away with a rough paper towel too. I'm not sure if it's affecting my prints yet. Have you seen it affect prints?
The reason this works is because the PTFE lubricant leaves a coating of Teflon behind on the surface of whatever it dries on. You really should just wipe and leave it for a few hours. The solvent that keeps the Teflon liquid evaporates, leaving behind a thin film coating of non-stick plastic.
Thanks for this info. Wouldn't you know the M Wipes are nowhere to be found now
ya I just bought my a photon mono and just my luck all the essential stuff if ether sold out or the website doesn't like my debit card. tried to order some feps from anycubic direct and my card was like nope. but I am gonna get the Sovol 3D vat to work with and it's not gonna be in stock till the 7 of next month smh.
Have you tried to set minimum lifting distance and high lifting speed after the lube applied to fep?
Can this lube manipulations increase the print speed?
And is there some alternative lubes on aliexpress may be you know some?
Could you use mold release instead of the 3n 1 ?
Is it save to print things parallel to the build plate with Lub ? I want to print some tiny cases with flat areas like 10cm long, but i always print them in 30degrees which takes a lot of more time and also i have bending and lots of support wate.
Haha I use bones lube and sometimes the krytox 205g0 since I’m into keebs like the quarkeys z40 🤣
I was ready to quit with 3D resin printing, becasue nothing would stay on my plate. I put a dab on my vat, and touched-up lightly on the plate with sandpaper, and now I'm golden.
I used the same stuff 3-1 PTFE it works great... BUT!!!! Holy crap Rain X is wayyyyyyyyy better. I have 2x Phrozen Sonic Mighty 4K's 1 I used the PTFE per usual the other I used the Rain X... Well at first I was like "crap the print failed" on the printer with the Rain X because I could literally hear NOTHING... No Fep pops No Crispy Peeling Sounds NOTHING. But I decided to let it keep printing for a few hours enough to where I could finally see the build plate and too my absolute shock, everything was printing perfectly. The PTFE works great but you still get those pops and peeling sounds, not nearly as bad as if nothing were on it. But man Rain X blew my mind. I highly recommend you try it.
thx for this input, was looking for a comparison between those 2; after hours, here you are :) thx
What kind of Rain-X did you use, the one for Glass or the one for Plastic?
@@kiroaepi Just the normal glass one, but I am not curious to see if the plastic version would be even better.
did you end up trying the for plastic one as well? also, how often does it need to be applied?
Hi - can't find the bottle version in the UK - does their spray can version do the same?
wouldn't the PTFE Lube stick to the build plate if the build plate touches it when its being homed?
can i use a 70% IPA to rinse and clean? I'm using Siraya brand resin
by far the best PTFE i've found is technicqll 100% dry PTFE concentrate. I'm not even joking, the PEP or ACF films are pristine after large prints. But be careful, it's a highly concentrated powder, it might contaminate the resin, but i didn't have any issues so far.
is there any effect with the chemicals mixing?
How many prints would you say the PTFE lube effect lasts?
Nice video.
is it ok if we use PTFE spray? Dry PTFE or regular? see this: WD-40 Specialist PTFE Dry Lubricant Spray, Smart Straw, 400 ml, 49394/25NBA or WD-40 Specialist PTFE Lubricant Spray, Smart Straw, 300 ml
PTFE is a PFAS or forever chemical. What other options are out there? I heard you say rainx
Where do you get your feb for this printer
have used it and it definitely feels like its removing the fep 'stick' and makes it feel very slick. I believe i've had some good results with it... but i'm still undecided on whether i'm just imagining that or if it is indeed providing a barrier so the cured resin doesnt clamp on to the fep. i'm sure quite how the PTFE reacts with the plastic and unsure what happens when resin is added. my initial thought is that surely the resin liquid would negate the PTFE as it mixes in the vat... but... does it? no idea. someone needs to get scientific on this! annoying stuck elements of the print really frustrate when they cause all kinds of chaos to the print that follows the 'error'. had some incredible prints though. both with and without the extra fuss. i've had some items collapse into pancakes during print and ive had things i didnt consider particularly printable... which have amazingly printed perfectly. always monitor the state of the Vat/Fep between prints. gloved fingers tell you straight away when something has accumulated... the "push up at the stuck bit from below works well too. blah blah blah... 3D Printing is brilliant... if smelly and messy.
instead of scraping, just insert a long support from prior print on a corner and and do a 40 second exposure of full screen, you can then lift the support and peel away the entire bottom of the resin on FEP without any damage.
I have about 50/50 success doing that.
i do that but no supoirt. just a 20 secs exposure and the whole layer comes out rather easily, and most times in one piece
is there other good oprions ? we sadly cant get 3in1 overhere
After a print has finished. How long can you leave resin inside the vat? Is it necessary to pour unused resin back into its bottle after every print?
A very long time as long as it isn’t exposed to UV light. I went out of town for a week. Just lowered the build plate to right above the resin level before I left. When I got back I mixed it up really good with the plastic spatula and started printing right away.
@@TrueEliteGeek Cool. Thank you.
A lot of people who do this put a cover on the vat. You can find models on Thingiverse but you may need a larger printer unless you get creative ie.: print it in diagonal or in two parts.
After a year how has the 3n1 worked for you still?
have you applied the PTFE to the anodize aluminum?
No. Just the FEP
The rain x thing does works before printing? Because i tried and waited two hours and in the end is not working
Have you ever dragged an image across an old computer and it smears itself on the screen? Thats what my prints do. The main print will start (and always fail) but have a trail that goes off to the edge of the build plate like a stretched shadow. This started when I first tried lube, but now does it after a full clean and no lube.
I need some ptfe 3n 1
problem is availability. I've seen that lube for 4 dollars on american amazon. Can't find it anywhere for a reasonable price here in Germany
I had trouble finding this exact brand in Europe as well, but I used WD-40 with PTFE (in green text on the can) instead.
take a look on bike shops.
why don't you just try any other PTFE spray? ;) seems to be the same product in different brand
@@tturit And it saves a towel.
Can you use the same lubricant for the z axis screw and rails ?
No, it's not a lubricant..its to make things slidy..for want of a better word
Should I user dry PTFE?
I use butter for lube lol I just put a very thin amount on making sure it’s not clumpy and it works like a charm
wtf for real?
@@richieyumnam8646 could be a troll could be legit... Maybe print a 🌽
Have you try an equivalent? That product is almost impossible to find :-(
my first fep survived for ONE print. the test on the usb drive. the 2nd feb survived for also ONE print. the 3rd one killed itself during the first print. I must be doing something wrong, can't tell exactly what it is. seems that the exposure is too much or something
A can of "Teflon/PTFE dry film lubricant" should work the same, and be easier to build layers with. It also skips the towel.
I have heard it works, but have not tried it.
This is what I use. PTFE is just genetic for DuPont's brand name Teflon.
Not sure how Rain-X will react with FEP film when exposed to direct UV light from the printer. However, Rain-X when used on a windshield consistently over the course of 3-5 years can discolor the windshield.
All I am saying is to use caution. It might not turn out as expected.
Can I use regular wd-40
I live in Colombia, and that 3 in 1 lubricant with PTFE is not sold in Latin America, or well, not in my country. ordering it in amazon is not an option because the shipping of this product has a surcharge of 600 dollars for a product of about 10 dollars ... my question is ... can it be replaced by any lubricant with ptfe? because here they do sell a CRC brand chain lubricant. They say it is dry lubricant. please help!!!
Here in Brazil we use wet chain lubrificant for bikes. Like this one: www.jamurbikes.com.br/oleo-lubrificante-algoo-ptfe-umido-60-ml.html
Anything teflon/ptfe based. You just want to "lubricate it". I use a spray like "Henrique César De Paula Urzêda" suggested.
What do you find to replace it? Can we used WD-40?? someone tried it??
can i use wd40 ptfe spray?