Beautifully done Anne. I worked with wood all my life (I'm 69) but mostly heavy duty stuff. Nowadays I'm into building toys and such. Your coloring technique is awesome to say the least. Thank you. Stay safe, you and your family.
True, but that adds both more cost and time. I find removing the tape from the tiny letter tedious. I have also had a few times where the tape bubbled a little near the engraving which then can't really be used for the colorfill.
@@1elephantmemories I have found the same to be true. There are still some instances where masking is a good idea, but in general, it is more trouble than it is worth.
Thanks for the video. I had really small and shallow text, so instead of the wet paper towel shown at 2:36 I used a razor blade to scrape the excess ink, when working in that size the paper towel took away the paint from inside the letters
Glad it helped. I will be adding more for laser, cnc, signmaking and resin tutorials. Not sure if you saw the recent post about colorfilling with mica powder. Takes engraving to a whole new level.
I know this was a while ago, your video pulled up with my question and you made this really simple. Thank you for the video Love the many color examples. going to have some fun with this
Glad it helped. I am currently working on an updated version that will answer some of the common questions that I have been getting since I did this video. I appreciate you taking the time to leave me feedback!
@@1elephantmemories Your welcome, I subbed you channel. I am trying to learn some of this stuff only for hobby and family doings. The color thing you did was absolutely awesome and I gotta learn that. I have been binge watching some of your other videos, look forward to the update on this process. I have had to watch it several time to make sure I get it right.
@@Lorddarthvader1701 The most important thing is to seal your wood well. Love to see what you do. If you have any questions or have a particular project you would like to to tackle, let me know.
I don't know how many times I have watched this video, I am now working on the deep engrave from my laser for material that is the thickness of a quarter. I'll get it, just gotta test the settings in steps.
Experimenting is a huge part of this. Every laser is different and every wood type is different. Tight closed grains like maple and cherry work really well. The key is to seal your wood well. Multiple coats of shellac and let dry well. Good luck!
We cut the holes in the wood for the book but the paper in a binding machine. However, if you don't have a binding machine, you can cut out small round holes and hand sew your binding to make a beautiful handmade wood cover book!
thank you very much! really helpful! I finally got it how others managed to do colored areas. I used to cut the food, paint it and then insert it back in the original wood to add colors LOL this made life a lot easier. thanks and best regards from Romania :D
LOL... typical me... I was trying all sorts of fancy ways to try and mask off the area and then CNC engraving and then the masking tape will pull away meaning I have to try again and have to cut deeper... and then I come across this simple method that works surprising well. So thanks JoeAnn.
Thank you for the videos. They are very helpful. I am using 1/8" basswood at the moment. On a simple test engraving that came with the machine, I sealed the wood with Howard Wax-It-All. I applied two coats total and after it sat overnight, I wiped it with a clean microfiber cloth. I tried to apply tempera paint and wipe it off. ALL of the paint came off, even in the engraved area. I'm guessing this is due to the wax-based sealer? On my next test, I am coating a deeper engraving with Min-Wax water-based polycrylic. Hopefully that will work better. I did order Bulls Eye Shellac which will arrive next week. Your results look amazing here. Thank you again.
I have only used shellac but any wood sealer should do well. poly urethane too. The reason I use shellac is because it has a faster drying/ curing time. I also tend to use a cheap acrylic paint. I use cheap paint not because if the expense, but because it has a higher water content and less pigment. It is less likely to "stain" the wood when sealed. I get my color filling paint at Ocean State Job Lots, but you can also get some at the dollar store. Good luck. Would love to hear the results of your experiment!
I just use acrylic paint. I actually find that the cheaper paint works better. I think it has a higher water content and less pigment, so it is less likely to stain wood. Sealing the wood first is key to this process.
The shellac seals the grains so you will get minimal bleeding. If the paint gets down into the grains, you will not be able to get it out. It also seals the surface which does make it easier to wipe off.
@@natashabruno8813 You can. I find shellac dries and cures faster. It is also less expensive where I live. Anything that will seal the wood and grain should do nicely.
You are only wiping the surface. I try to use a very flat hand and not push down too hard. If the engraving is thin enough, I never have problems, but on areas that the engraving is quite wide, it will sometimes come off. This really isn't a problem as it is easy to go back in with a small brush and dab a little paint on it.
If you are going to stain, try to seal the wood with shellac first, then a light hand sanding before adding the stain. Once the stain is dry, seal again with shellac, maybe even twice. Do you engraving, wipe off the burn, spray again with shellac and colorfill. Always test on some scrap wood first though.
A trick I used to use (this was to fill machine engraved text) was to wrap a small flat plate with my paper towel (keep the paper towel flat), I was using paraffin as a solvent. Water should be fine tho, I would use the plate held flat on the work, wipe once, move to a clean area of paper towel, wipe again, usually three wipes will suffice. The idea is not to drag the paint out as much
You don't have to but you can. I will often prep wood to fit in my laser (12x24) by cutting it to size, a quick sand and a spray with shellac on both sides, then set it aside until I need to use it. Shellac dries in minutes but takes 7 days to fully cure which is still faster than most urethanes that takes 30 days to cure. The most important step is to add the shellac after the engraving to really seal the grains that have become exposed after engraving. I have a new video out on colorfilling with a mica powder instead of paint. The results were really stunning. You might want to check that out too.
Apply shellac after the engraving to you seal the grains in and around the engraving. Let this dry. It dries fast but the longer your let it dry the better the results are. If the wood you are using has large open grains like Oak, I would actually do several coats of shellac and let dry over night. Next apply your paint. You wipe the paint off the top of the wood surface while the paint is still wet. Let the paint dry overnight. Then sand smooth and apply your favorite finish.
Interesting idea. Possibly, but I haven't tried it. Technically, as long as the fiber is sealed, it should work. Give it a try on some scrap. I would love to see how it turns out. I am working on an updated version of this subject to answer questions. I will have to give this a try myself! Good luck.
I prefer shellac because it has a fast dry and cure time. Shellac dries in minutes although I recommend waiting a few hours to overnight to really let it set. It cures in 7 days. You can use a polyurethane which dries quickly but still has a cure time of about 30 days. That does not mean you have to wait 30 days, I would wait at least overnight for a polyurethane. If these are not available, then experiment with what is. Take some scrap wood and try a few different products and try filling at different times. Example, try doing a fill at 1 hour, 3 hours and overnight, then compare the results. The goal is to seal the grains so you won't get bleeding or discolor the surface. Good luck.
Hello, do you seal the wood with shellac FIRST? then paint the engraving area? After adding color do you do a final seal with more shellac or another sealer to keep the paint from rubbing off?
Yes. You need to seal the wood or the paint will seep into the grains. The engraving needs to be sealed because it is giving access to the grains within the wood you just engraved. Let dry (the longer the better) Add color and wipe. Make sure the paint is fully dried before you sand or the dust will stick to the paint in the engraving. Once sanded you can then put your finish on. The finish can be shellac, polyacrylic or urethane. Experiment to see what works best for you.
You could do it either way. If you stain it before you engrave, then I would make sure you have a good amount of wood sealer on and let it set for a few days. That way you should be able to wipe off the burn, reseal the engraving, and colorfill. If you have enough wood sealer on, then the paint should just wipe off. If you do it after, then do the same steps as in the video. Just make sure you sand really well after you colorfill so you get a good clean surface to stain. This may alter the colorfill colors though.
OH! MY! GOD! This was so helpful. I literally just hand-painted every single letter in my first engraved sign, thinking I'd never do it again. This is a game changer. Questions... If I want the wood stained a darker color, would I be able to do that after the paint? Or would the shellac prohibit me from doing that? I'm assuming I cannot do it before as we'd be sanding it off after applying the paint. Alos, rather than paint, what if I just wanted the engraved lettering a darker shade of the stain? My laser does not create the darkness of a hand-burned sign, but I want to achieve that look.. If you've worked with stains, I'd love your thoughts on how to fill the lettering with stain and apply a lighter stain over the entire piece...if that's possible. Again, thanks for such a great video. I', so excited to try this! -Shannon
Theirs a couple videos out right now about getting darker burns with a laser using baking soda or borax. Pretty sure the baking soda burns the darkest but it’s been a bit since I watched the video.
Different types of wood burn in different ways. Cherry and Mahogany leave a very nice looking dark burn. Maple is ok. Pine is not very good at all. Baltic birch plywood can also burn nicely. Experimenting is always key. You might try to do the colorfill with a brown color. Once you have done the process in the video, skip the adding the final finish. After you have filled the engraving, cleaned and let it dry. Sand the surface well but not deep or you will lose your engraving. Clean with a blast of air and wipe with a rag. Now try to stain the whole piece and see if that gives the effect you are looking for. This video is just a guide. It is a technique that I experimented with and works very well for me, but I really like to experiment with settings and products. Hope this helps.
I engrave deep by doing high power, low speed, then adjust the focus and do multiple passes. Try for 1/16" - 1/8" depth. That should give you plenty of elbow room for sanding. If you are doing thin engraving like letters, then colorfill and wipe right off. I don't really let it dry. If it is a design and has thicker areas, you will notice that the paint wipes out of that area. Just go back with a small brush after you have wiped off and carefully fill in those areas. I am working on an updated version of this that answers a lot of these questions. Feel free to ask away if you need to :)
Can you tell me what shelllac is used in this video? I am trying to colour fill engraved letters on a wooden sign without the top of the sign been painted. I want to use shellac & this seemed to work for in this video? Thanks
I used Bullseye Spray Shellac for this video. You can also brush on. If you are in a country that does not have shellac, you can still usually find natural shellac flakes and make your own. It is a lot cheaper and has less additives. Good luck.
I just use inexpensive acrylic paint. I use these verses the more expensive paint because it had less pigment and more water, thus less likely to stain the surrounding wood and easier to clean. Acrylic is fast drying and easy clean up with just water. However, I encourage you to experiment with scrap wood!
This is great! Thank you so much. Is there an alternative to Shellac that I can use outdoors? I have a project for an outdoor sign that has been engraved but the engraving is not poping enough. I was going to use your method, but apparently, Shellac is not recommended for outdoors. Or is there a coating that you can put over the shellac at the end to make the project more outdoor-friendly?
You can use a urethan that rated for outside. You might want to start with shellac though, just because it dries much faster. Once done, you can do coats of an outdoor rated product to seal it.
I do both. I like to prep my wood as soon as I get it so it is ready to go when I need it. Spray again after so you seal the grains that have been exposed by the laser.
For the segment where you are filling the text with paint, is the wood surface treated in any type of way so that the paint does not soak in and is able to be wiped away?
Sanding can mess up the stain. I would suggest engraving, then sealing with a waterproof sealer first like a urethane. You can still use shellac, just do multiple coats and let it cure (up to 7 days). Then you should be able to just wipe off instead of sanding. Alway experiment on some scrap wood first though. Good luck.
Hi Heather. I do cut with a laser. I typically leave the edges black as I often feel it gives a finished look as long as you have cleaned the burn residue from the top and bottom.
I use very cheap acrylic paint. It has less pigment and more water which helps prevent some of the grain bleeding. I just used a paper towel with water to wipe off.
Yes you can. As for the wood sealers, you would have to experiment a little, maybe polyurethane or polyacrylic. I have tried a few and found shellac works best, but maybe I will make another video on wood sealers!
I use this for anything I want to color fill. Text is easy, but if I am color filling a thicker design, I will often have to go back and hand paint the middle parts as they often wipe off when I am cleaning.
If you are going to stain, try to seal the wood with shellac first, then a light hand sanding before adding the stain. Once the stain is dry, seal again with shellac, maybe even twice. Do you engraving, wipe off the burn, spray again with shellac and colorfill.
Hello! I had a project on Etsy completed and the seller did a fantastic job. Over the top good. It's a wood plaque, stained cherry, with text engraved. The artist used a gold lettering .. which looks great .. except that I'm color blind and those colors look the same to me and I can't see the writing as well as everyone else. As this is for my office .. I would like to be able to read! :-) I don't want to contact the artist, as logistically, I'd need to ship back, but more over, they did a great job and don't want them to feel bad. More importantly, I believe I can just go back over and color fill in white or in black, and all is good in the world The plaque has several coats of shellac so think I can just clean the surface one more time with a damp rag, let dry and then begin color filling. Do you agree that's the likely case. More over, what paint / paints do you prefer to use when you are color filling? Thanks in advance and appreciate you very much!
Hi, I would contact your artist. Don't feel bad about that. Explain your medical condition. In fact, they may do it over at no cost. OR, waive the shipping costs. Good luck. BTW, I'm color blind as well.
This is all guesses, since I didn't make the piece. I would test first in a very small area. If the plaque is already well sealed, you might just be able to colorfill small areas at a time, then wipe right away. I use cheap acrylic paint. It has less pigment and more water which helps prevent some of the grain bleeding.
You just need a good wood sealer. Shellac is my go to, but I have heard you can you a good polyurethane too. Anything that will penetrate down into the grains. Have fun@
So I tried this.....and it worked! This is the closest I've ever gotten to a successful colorfilled project. Here's the issue tho...I colorfilled some words with white paint and once it dried the white paint looked off white/yellow. Do you know of any fix for this or why it happened? Please help!!!!! Thank you for your content 👍
You might need to do it a few times with white. The off color may be from the burning of the laser. You could also possibly seal it again, then colorfill white again. I am working on an updated version of this too.
@1elephantmemories Thank you!!!! So I had really small words on a sheet of plywood I stained with Jacobean minwax. I took your advice and re-did the colorfill on the letters. It took a total of 5 layers for the letters to actually be white. It may have even been good on the 4th layer but I added 1 more just GP. Long/short IT WORKED, thank you!!!! I can't wait to see your video on this! 👍
Very nice. Are you able to build up enough paint so that the engraving is completely level with the surrounding wood surface? Or does the top coat level it?
It really depends on how deep your engraving is and what look you are going for. Now a days, if I want a level surface I put a clear top of a 2 part tabletop epoxy from Totalboat.
Hi. I did use acrylic paint. Inexpensive paint actually works best for this. If you seal the wood first with something like Shellac, especially in and around the engraving. Let it dry overnight if possible, then colorfill, it should come off. I recommend tight grain wood like baltic birch, maple, cherry or walnut. The most important part is sealing the wood though. If you take your time with that, you should be good!
I have tried it and yes it does. The key is to make sure the wood is sealed well, including in the engraving. I am working on an updated version that answers a lot of questions.
Any tips on paint filling an engraving on wood that I want to be stained ebony? I'd like a nice contrast of black background and bright green colors for the fill
My best guess would be to stain your wood first. Once dry, engrave fairly deep. Then seal with multiple layers of shellac. You want it to be well sealed and very dry since you will not be sanding clean. Color fill and wipe clean. I haven't done this myself so you might want to do a test first. Good luck.
I haven't tried it on stone, but as long as the shellac seals well enough I think it would work. Test out on a small smooth rock. You will want your engraving to be on the deep side so the shellac won't just fill the engraving. Or maybe try to seal the rock first with shellac then try the color fill. I hope it works out!
Great Tutorial!! Thank you
You are welcome, I hope you find it helpful!
Just what I was looking for. Thanks for taking the time to share
Glad it was helpful!
Beautifully done Anne. I worked with wood all my life (I'm 69) but mostly heavy duty stuff. Nowadays I'm into building toys and such. Your coloring technique is awesome to say the least. Thank you. Stay safe, you and your family.
Thank you. I love crafting. So much fun.
Cover the wood with making tape before engraving and you won't have to sand the burn marks, just peal the tape up.
True, but that adds both more cost and time. I find removing the tape from the tiny letter tedious. I have also had a few times where the tape bubbled a little near the engraving which then can't really be used for the colorfill.
@@1elephantmemories I have found the same to be true. There are still some instances where masking is a good idea, but in general, it is more trouble than it is worth.
Thank you I have been looking for something like this ever since I started lasering 😁
Glad it helped
Awesome technique! Thank you!!
You welcome!
Nice Idea for color feel👍👍👍💐💐💐
Worked like a charm. thanks
Awesome!
The green looks awesome!
Thank you. I have a lot of fun with this.
I really liked the vid demos, looks great ❤ took it at face value and will use on another project. Thanks so much!
Thank you. I am working on an updated version for January. I will also be doing a live chat to answer question at that time too. Have fun.
Thanks for the video. I had really small and shallow text, so instead of the wet paper towel shown at 2:36 I used a razor blade to scrape the excess ink, when working in that size the paper towel took away the paint from inside the letters
Thanks for the tip. I am working on an updated version that will answer a lot of questions and look at other techniques. I will give this a try.
Wow, awesome video. I've been looking for ways to do this exact thing. Thanks
Glad you liked it!
Thank you! I needed this!
You're so welcome!
Nice examples and explanation. 7 min is just right. Thanks!
Thank you!
Beautifuly done .
Thanks. This was a really good video!
Glad it was helpful!
WOW! Thanks!
You're welcome!
Thank you! Very helpful!
Glad it helped. I am working on an updated version that will answer a lot of questions and new techniques.
Great job, I love the green combo one 😮
Thank you! Cheers!
Great tips! Thank you.
Thank you.
Brilliant really enjoyed that.
Thanks 👌👌👌
Glad you liked it. I am working on an updated version that answers questions and new techniques.
Very nice!
Thanks for the visit
Well done. Great video.
Thank you!
Thank you so much. I'm new to this stuff and your video was very helpful. Looking forward to seeing more tips
Glad it helped. I will be adding more for laser, cnc, signmaking and resin tutorials. Not sure if you saw the recent post about colorfilling with mica powder. Takes engraving to a whole new level.
Bella idea ! Grazie per il video
Sono contento che abbia aiutato. Grazie.
great idea
Thank you!
I know this was a while ago, your video pulled up with my question and you made this really simple. Thank you for the video Love the many color examples. going to have some fun with this
Glad it helped. I am currently working on an updated version that will answer some of the common questions that I have been getting since I did this video. I appreciate you taking the time to leave me feedback!
@@1elephantmemories Your welcome, I subbed you channel. I am trying to learn some of this stuff only for hobby and family doings. The color thing you did was absolutely awesome and I gotta learn that. I have been binge watching some of your other videos, look forward to the update on this process. I have had to watch it several time to make sure I get it right.
@@Lorddarthvader1701 The most important thing is to seal your wood well. Love to see what you do. If you have any questions or have a particular project you would like to to tackle, let me know.
@@1elephantmemories Thank you very much again for your help on this.
Thank you. This was very helpful.
I am glad it helped.
This is great! Thank-you for showing the different application styles as well!
Awesome 👏🏼
Thank you!
Nice!
Thank you.
Great video 👍🏽
Thank you for sharing
New sub
Thanks for the sub! Would love to see what you do with this.
This is awesome thank you
Thank you.
Awesome, thanks for sharing.
Glad it helped.
Thank you
Your welcome and enjoy a new world of creativeness.
What a great technique! Thank you for making this video! I will definitely be using this technique in my projects!
Thank you. I am working on an updated version that will answer a lot of common questions.
great content, very helpful thank you 100x
Thank you!
Great job! Looks awesome! And simple!
Thank you.
Super, super and thank you from France
Hope it helps!
Very well done ! Thanks for the demo
Glad you liked it.
I had seen a product called Liquamask but it was so expensive. This is a way above average solution. Thank you you have really inspired me.
Thank you. I am glad it worked out for you.
Thank you so much. You just easily solved a dilemma for me!
Great. I hope it works well.
@@1elephantmemories it did!!!
@@catherinecoleman7864 Yay!
I don't know how many times I have watched this video, I am now working on the deep engrave from my laser for material that is the thickness of a quarter. I'll get it, just gotta test the settings in steps.
Experimenting is a huge part of this. Every laser is different and every wood type is different. Tight closed grains like maple and cherry work really well. The key is to seal your wood well. Multiple coats of shellac and let dry well. Good luck!
@@1elephantmemories OK more than one coat on may work ok thank you again
You welcome.
Thank you for this video. Last night I need my first wood project, I engraved a mandala and was actually thinking of coloring it.
Great idea.
Is it simple wall color?
Thank You, very Helpful!
Glad it helped.
Good work 🇧🇷👏🏾
Thank you.
This is great. Thanks for the great tutorial!
Thank you. I hope it helps.
You are most welcome. We are in the middle of moving our studio, then I plan on posting more, including an advanced colorfill.
Beautiful!!! I wonder if you cut the holes for the wiro with your laser or you cut them with the binding machine
We cut the holes in the wood for the book but the paper in a binding machine. However, if you don't have a binding machine, you can cut out small round holes and hand sew your binding to make a beautiful handmade wood cover book!
@@1elephantmemories Thank you for your answer, very useful
@@Fancylooks You are very welcome. Have fun!
thank you very much! really helpful! I finally got it how others managed to do colored areas. I used to cut the food, paint it and then insert it back in the original wood to add colors LOL this made life a lot easier. thanks and best regards from Romania :D
Glad it helped!
Excellent technique! Thanks for the ideas.
You are very welcome.
LOL... typical me... I was trying all sorts of fancy ways to try and mask off the area and then CNC engraving and then the masking tape will pull away meaning I have to try again and have to cut deeper... and then I come across this simple method that works surprising well. So thanks JoeAnn.
Glad it helped!
Thank you for the videos. They are very helpful. I am using 1/8" basswood at the moment. On a simple test engraving that came with the machine, I sealed the wood with Howard Wax-It-All. I applied two coats total and after it sat overnight, I wiped it with a clean microfiber cloth. I tried to apply tempera paint and wipe it off. ALL of the paint came off, even in the engraved area. I'm guessing this is due to the wax-based sealer? On my next test, I am coating a deeper engraving with Min-Wax water-based polycrylic. Hopefully that will work better. I did order Bulls Eye Shellac which will arrive next week. Your results look amazing here. Thank you again.
I have only used shellac but any wood sealer should do well. poly urethane too. The reason I use shellac is because it has a faster drying/ curing time. I also tend to use a cheap acrylic paint. I use cheap paint not because if the expense, but because it has a higher water content and less pigment. It is less likely to "stain" the wood when sealed. I get my color filling paint at Ocean State Job Lots, but you can also get some at the dollar store. Good luck. Would love to hear the results of your experiment!
Thank you! I've actually been looking for a technique for painting bas relief on thrifted vases. I think this will work. 😊👍👏👌
love the ak print back ground i fly a male
Thank you!
This is brilliant! Can I please ask what type of paint you used? I didn’t know it could just wipe off clean
I just use acrylic paint. I actually find that the cheaper paint works better. I think it has a higher water content and less pigment, so it is less likely to stain wood. Sealing the wood first is key to this process.
That sander really looked like a jitter bug (pad sander) and not an orbital! Cool video though!
It might be. I had only started woodworking several years before and more with a scroll and band saw. Always learning. Thank you.
Thank you for this video! I have a question…does the shellac enable you to wipe off the excess easier?
The shellac seals the grains so you will get minimal bleeding. If the paint gets down into the grains, you will not be able to get it out. It also seals the surface which does make it easier to wipe off.
Feel free to ask questions in the comments below.
Would polyurethane work similarly to shellac so the paint just wipes right off?
@@natashabruno8813 You can. I find shellac dries and cures faster. It is also less expensive where I live. Anything that will seal the wood and grain should do nicely.
Thank you for the video.
Why does the paint not come right out of the engraving when you wipe away the excess when you're not waiting for it to dry?
You are only wiping the surface. I try to use a very flat hand and not push down too hard. If the engraving is thin enough, I never have problems, but on areas that the engraving is quite wide, it will sometimes come off. This really isn't a problem as it is easy to go back in with a small brush and dab a little paint on it.
Thank you for this video. If I wanted to stain the wood, would you do that before painting? and would the sanding affect the would stain?
I would think you would stain before anything as she paint on top of the shellac.
If you are going to stain, try to seal the wood with shellac first, then a light hand sanding before adding the stain. Once the stain is dry, seal again with shellac, maybe even twice. Do you engraving, wipe off the burn, spray again with shellac and colorfill. Always test on some scrap wood first though.
Will it work on plastic as well
A trick I used to use (this was to fill machine engraved text) was to wrap a small flat plate with my paper towel (keep the paper towel flat), I was using paraffin as a solvent. Water should be fine tho, I would use the plate held flat on the work, wipe once, move to a clean area of paper towel, wipe again, usually three wipes will suffice. The idea is not to drag the paint out as much
Great tip!
Do you apply the Shellac before the engraving?
You don't have to but you can. I will often prep wood to fit in my laser (12x24) by cutting it to size, a quick sand and a spray with shellac on both sides, then set it aside until I need to use it. Shellac dries in minutes but takes 7 days to fully cure which is still faster than most urethanes that takes 30 days to cure. The most important step is to add the shellac after the engraving to really seal the grains that have become exposed after engraving. I have a new video out on colorfilling with a mica powder instead of paint. The results were really stunning. You might want to check that out too.
so light shellack, in the engraving or no? Then wipe off the smudgy stuff, then fill, right?
Apply shellac after the engraving to you seal the grains in and around the engraving. Let this dry. It dries fast but the longer your let it dry the better the results are. If the wood you are using has large open grains like Oak, I would actually do several coats of shellac and let dry over night. Next apply your paint. You wipe the paint off the top of the wood surface while the paint is still wet. Let the paint dry overnight. Then sand smooth and apply your favorite finish.
loved this video could i do this on mdf as that is easier for me to get where i live
Interesting idea. Possibly, but I haven't tried it. Technically, as long as the fiber is sealed, it should work. Give it a try on some scrap. I would love to see how it turns out. I am working on an updated version of this subject to answer questions. I will have to give this a try myself! Good luck.
@@1elephantmemories thankyou will get sealer on Friday as dont live near town is it only shellac I can use
I prefer shellac because it has a fast dry and cure time. Shellac dries in minutes although I recommend waiting a few hours to overnight to really let it set. It cures in 7 days. You can use a polyurethane which dries quickly but still has a cure time of about 30 days. That does not mean you have to wait 30 days, I would wait at least overnight for a polyurethane. If these are not available, then experiment with what is. Take some scrap wood and try a few different products and try filling at different times. Example, try doing a fill at 1 hour, 3 hours and overnight, then compare the results. The goal is to seal the grains so you won't get bleeding or discolor the surface. Good luck.
@@1elephantmemories thankyou I will let you know how I get on much appreciated as I'm new to lasering got the otur master3 10 watt
I like your videos about the wood engraving... when are you making more? 😊
Thank you Stephanie. We have a lot of projects in mind and will be doing more wood engraving and wood working in the near future.
Hello, do you seal the wood with shellac FIRST? then paint the engraving area? After adding color do you do a final seal with more shellac or another sealer to keep the paint from rubbing off?
Yes. You need to seal the wood or the paint will seep into the grains. The engraving needs to be sealed because it is giving access to the grains within the wood you just engraved. Let dry (the longer the better) Add color and wipe. Make sure the paint is fully dried before you sand or the dust will stick to the paint in the engraving. Once sanded you can then put your finish on. The finish can be shellac, polyacrylic or urethane. Experiment to see what works best for you.
شكرا جزيلا سيدتي
اهلا وسهلا بك.
if you are staining the wood piece should you paint the text before or after staining?
You could do it either way. If you stain it before you engrave, then I would make sure you have a good amount of wood sealer on and let it set for a few days. That way you should be able to wipe off the burn, reseal the engraving, and colorfill. If you have enough wood sealer on, then the paint should just wipe off. If you do it after, then do the same steps as in the video. Just make sure you sand really well after you colorfill so you get a good clean surface to stain. This may alter the colorfill colors though.
@@1elephantmemories okay thanks for the feedback
OH! MY! GOD! This was so helpful. I literally just hand-painted every single letter in my first engraved sign, thinking I'd never do it again. This is a game changer. Questions...
If I want the wood stained a darker color, would I be able to do that after the paint? Or would the shellac prohibit me from doing that? I'm assuming I cannot do it before as we'd be sanding it off after applying the paint. Alos, rather than paint, what if I just wanted the engraved lettering a darker shade of the stain? My laser does not create the darkness of a hand-burned sign, but I want to achieve that look.. If you've worked with stains, I'd love your thoughts on how to fill the lettering with stain and apply a lighter stain over the entire piece...if that's possible. Again, thanks for such a great video. I', so excited to try this! -Shannon
Theirs a couple videos out right now about getting darker burns with a laser using baking soda or borax. Pretty sure the baking soda burns the darkest but it’s been a bit since I watched the video.
Different types of wood burn in different ways. Cherry and Mahogany leave a very nice looking dark burn. Maple is ok. Pine is not very good at all. Baltic birch plywood can also burn nicely. Experimenting is always key. You might try to do the colorfill with a brown color. Once you have done the process in the video, skip the adding the final finish. After you have filled the engraving, cleaned and let it dry. Sand the surface well but not deep or you will lose your engraving. Clean with a blast of air and wipe with a rag. Now try to stain the whole piece and see if that gives the effect you are looking for. This video is just a guide. It is a technique that I experimented with and works very well for me, but I really like to experiment with settings and products. Hope this helps.
This is amazing. I will try it in my next project. Do you have videos on how to engrave and proper techniue?
I have an epilog laser engraver. However, you can also use this when hand carving.
Thank you so much now to see how good I am haha
Just keep practicing. It is a lot of fun once you get the hang of it.
Two questions, if I may. When you say to engrave deep, how do you do that? and how long do you leave the coloring before wiping it off?
I engrave deep by doing high power, low speed, then adjust the focus and do multiple passes. Try for 1/16" - 1/8" depth. That should give you plenty of elbow room for sanding. If you are doing thin engraving like letters, then colorfill and wipe right off. I don't really let it dry. If it is a design and has thicker areas, you will notice that the paint wipes out of that area. Just go back with a small brush after you have wiped off and carefully fill in those areas. I am working on an updated version of this that answers a lot of these questions. Feel free to ask away if you need to :)
which typ of color you use ?
Honestly, any color or combination. I used a cheap acrylic paint which has less pigment and more water which helps with less grain bleeding.
Can you tell me what shelllac is used in this video? I am trying to colour fill engraved letters on a wooden sign without the top of the sign been painted. I want to use shellac & this seemed to work for in this video? Thanks
I used Bullseye Spray Shellac for this video. You can also brush on. If you are in a country that does not have shellac, you can still usually find natural shellac flakes and make your own. It is a lot cheaper and has less additives. Good luck.
What paints are suitable for this wood work?
I just use inexpensive acrylic paint. I use these verses the more expensive paint because it had less pigment and more water, thus less likely to stain the surrounding wood and easier to clean. Acrylic is fast drying and easy clean up with just water. However, I encourage you to experiment with scrap wood!
This is great! Thank you so much. Is there an alternative to Shellac that I can use outdoors? I have a project for an outdoor sign that has been engraved but the engraving is not poping enough. I was going to use your method, but apparently, Shellac is not recommended for outdoors. Or is there a coating that you can put over the shellac at the end to make the project more outdoor-friendly?
You can use a urethan that rated for outside. You might want to start with shellac though, just because it dries much faster. Once done, you can do coats of an outdoor rated product to seal it.
Are you spraying with the Shellac prior to painting or afterwards, thanks.
I do both. I like to prep my wood as soon as I get it so it is ready to go when I need it. Spray again after so you seal the grains that have been exposed by the laser.
For the segment where you are filling the text with paint, is the wood surface treated in any type of way so that the paint does not soak in and is able to be wiped away?
Yes. I pre treat the wood with Shellac after engraving (or CNC or hand carving). Let dry then colorfill.
What if the wood is stained? I just painted some engraved signs but there’s paint all over the piece. Can I sand it without messing up the stain?
Sanding can mess up the stain. I would suggest engraving, then sealing with a waterproof sealer first like a urethane. You can still use shellac, just do multiple coats and let it cure (up to 7 days). Then you should be able to just wipe off instead of sanding. Alway experiment on some scrap wood first though. Good luck.
Great video! Do you cut wood with your laser? I want to know what you do with the black edges. Especially on intricate cuts. Thank you.
Hi Heather. I do cut with a laser. I typically leave the edges black as I often feel it gives a finished look as long as you have cleaned the burn residue from the top and bottom.
What sort of paint and what is on the material when you rub the excess paint off
I use very cheap acrylic paint. It has less pigment and more water which helps prevent some of the grain bleeding. I just used a paper towel with water to wipe off.
Can Isopropyl Alcohol be used instead of denatured alcohol? Also can any other spray finishes be used instead of shellac?
Yes you can. As for the wood sealers, you would have to experiment a little, maybe polyurethane or polyacrylic. I have tried a few and found shellac works best, but maybe I will make another video on wood sealers!
What bit did you use for the lettering. liked how you did the coloring in the letters, but do you use the same technique for coloring in a character.
I use this for anything I want to color fill. Text is easy, but if I am color filling a thicker design, I will often have to go back and hand paint the middle parts as they often wipe off when I am cleaning.
Great tutorial! Do you happen to know the name of the script font you used?
Lavanderia Regular
Machbar24 is correct. I had to look it up.
I think I missed what kind of color material did you use to color fill. Is it lacquer, oil or acrylic paint?
Acrylic paint.
final sand with 220 grit ??
Yes. That is perfect.
Should you stain prior to engraving or your suggested techniques. Thanks
If you are going to stain, try to seal the wood with shellac first, then a light hand sanding before adding the stain. Once the stain is dry, seal again with shellac, maybe even twice. Do you engraving, wipe off the burn, spray again with shellac and colorfill.
Hello! I had a project on Etsy completed and the seller did a fantastic job. Over the top good. It's a wood plaque, stained cherry, with text engraved. The artist used a gold lettering .. which looks great .. except that I'm color blind and those colors look the same to me and I can't see the writing as well as everyone else. As this is for my office .. I would like to be able to read! :-)
I don't want to contact the artist, as logistically, I'd need to ship back, but more over, they did a great job and don't want them to feel bad. More importantly, I believe I can just go back over and color fill in white or in black, and all is good in the world
The plaque has several coats of shellac so think I can just clean the surface one more time with a damp rag, let dry and then begin color filling. Do you agree that's the likely case.
More over, what paint / paints do you prefer to use when you are color filling? Thanks in advance and appreciate you very much!
Hi, I would contact your artist. Don't feel bad about that. Explain your medical condition. In fact, they may do it over at no cost. OR, waive the shipping costs. Good luck. BTW, I'm color blind as well.
This is all guesses, since I didn't make the piece. I would test first in a very small area. If the plaque is already well sealed, you might just be able to colorfill small areas at a time, then wipe right away. I use cheap acrylic paint. It has less pigment and more water which helps prevent some of the grain bleeding.
Ah shellac! I use food coloring for some stain and it bleeds everywhere 🤪
You just need a good wood sealer. Shellac is my go to, but I have heard you can you a good polyurethane too. Anything that will penetrate down into the grains. Have fun@
Oooh what is that wood notebook?????
Yup. I do some fun wood notebooks. Even some wedding guest books.
So I tried this.....and it worked! This is the closest I've ever gotten to a successful colorfilled project. Here's the issue tho...I colorfilled some words with white paint and once it dried the white paint looked off white/yellow. Do you know of any fix for this or why it happened? Please help!!!!! Thank you for your content 👍
You might need to do it a few times with white. The off color may be from the burning of the laser. You could also possibly seal it again, then colorfill white again. I am working on an updated version of this too.
@1elephantmemories Thank you!!!! So I had really small words on a sheet of plywood I stained with Jacobean minwax. I took your advice and re-did the colorfill on the letters. It took a total of 5 layers for the letters to actually be white. It may have even been good on the 4th layer but I added 1 more just GP. Long/short IT WORKED, thank you!!!! I can't wait to see your video on this! 👍
Very nice. Are you able to build up enough paint so that the engraving is completely level with the surrounding wood surface? Or does the top coat level it?
It really depends on how deep your engraving is and what look you are going for. Now a days, if I want a level surface I put a clear top of a 2 part tabletop epoxy from Totalboat.
i love u :) thank you :)
Your welcome. I hope it helps.
Thanks for the video. Since you are using acrylic paint, you still wipe it off with water? Thank you.
Yes. As long as you prepped your site well with the shellac.
Hello, did you use acrylic paint? Does it come off? Ty
Hi. I did use acrylic paint. Inexpensive paint actually works best for this. If you seal the wood first with something like Shellac, especially in and around the engraving. Let it dry overnight if possible, then colorfill, it should come off. I recommend tight grain wood like baltic birch, maple, cherry or walnut. The most important part is sealing the wood though. If you take your time with that, you should be good!
Thank you so much for this advice!
@@Capri23x2 You are most welcome!
Can this work on hand engravings? As long as it is deep enough right
I have tried it and yes it does. The key is to make sure the wood is sealed well, including in the engraving. I am working on an updated version that answers a lot of questions.
Any tips on paint filling an engraving on wood that I want to be stained ebony? I'd like a nice contrast of black background and bright green colors for the fill
My best guess would be to stain your wood first. Once dry, engrave fairly deep. Then seal with multiple layers of shellac. You want it to be well sealed and very dry since you will not be sanding clean. Color fill and wipe clean. I haven't done this myself so you might want to do a test first. Good luck.
@@1elephantmemories thanks for the reply. Do you think I should use painters tape and engrave through it too?
Can this process be used on stone engraving? and possibly sealed with epoxy?
I haven't tried it on stone, but as long as the shellac seals well enough I think it would work. Test out on a small smooth rock. You will want your engraving to be on the deep side so the shellac won't just fill the engraving. Or maybe try to seal the rock first with shellac then try the color fill. I hope it works out!
Which. Colour did u used
Honestly, you can use any color or combinations that you want.