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Hi Jason. I share all the materials and tools in the description with links to some of my favorites. For this I used Daler Rowney Aquafine Coeruleum Hue and Ultramarine Blue Dark Acrylic Ink. No mica but I did use a white pigment paste from Eye Candy Pigments. Have fun!

You are welcome, I hope you find it helpful!

Thank you so much!

Right!

I appreciate that!

Awesome! I hope you have fun building it!

Yup. Sometimes, to get a really deep engraving, I refocus down after 2 passes. It really depends on your laser. My laser is now about 10 years old so the power isn't exactly what it used to be.

I find that sometimes the paint will bleed beneath the tape and can cause problems. Also, trying to remove all the really tiny pieces of tape can be very cumbersome. It is my least favorite thing to do. For me, this is the easiest technique.

Unfortunately my camera cut out while I was doing the first layer of paint. It was only paint with no glue. You will want to make sure that you can not see any wood through the paint before you start with the glue layer. I let the first layer of paint completely dry. Acrylic paint dries very fast. Once that is done, then you can do the glue/paint mixture and add the flocking while it is all wet. Some people don't even add the glue, but I find it adheres to the flocking better. Hope that helps and thank you so much for the comment!

@@1elephantmemories Oh I get the paint and glue parts of this, and watched videos of people flocking using a specific clear glue. So I think using acrylic the same color as the flock is a great idea and agree with getting good coverage of the paint to avoid weird spots. And I will also say you did fantastic with getting shots and explaining your process. My question was more on why use just acrylic as a primer layer. Like using the acrylic and glue as a one shot layer would see like it would give the best overall bond, because the flock would be bonding right with the wood.

I see. To be honest, it depends on your paint. When I was practicing with samples before creating the video, I found that some acrylic paints did not cover quite so well. I always practice first to see what questions or issues might come up so I can accurately answer them in the video. One of the samples was made with a very inexpensive paint. I had to paint it 3x to get the coverage needed so the wood was not seen through. While a very expensive paint, I got in one coverage. The paint I settled for, actually took 2 passes. The first had decent coverage and the second with the glue.

You are welcome. It really is easy.

I am so happy that they helped! I appreciate the feedback!

Thank you!

Thank you UK! Yes and No. Resin shrinks as it cures so if it is below the surface, it will cure concave and since this is a cutting board or serving tray, you really want a flat surface. You can do a thin, clear pour on top of the whole thing and it will be shiny again. However, for certain projects including one I have been working on this week, I do exactly that. I poured to just under the surface because I must do a full pour over of clear in the end anyway. So, this does work for some projects. Feel free to ask more questions about this!

Thank you. I will keep that in mind. I do have a whole list of PPE in the description as well. I will be sure to add that to the videos.

After we remove from the mold and cut to size, we do some prep work. This will help set you up for a nice smooth finish. Router the top edges then sand everything smooth and clean really well. Then you want to put a thin finishing layer of a tabletop epoxy. You want just enough to cover the top and sides evenly but not so much that you will get a lot of dripping. Having the top edges routered really helps with the uneven edges as the rounded edges let any dripping epoxy smoothly fall instead of building up and spilling over in areas.

Awesome! Have fun. Would love to see the finished result.

Hi. I did use acrylic paint. Inexpensive paint actually works best for this. If you seal the wood first with something like Shellac, especially in and around the engraving. Let it dry overnight if possible, then colorfill, it should come off. I recommend tight grain wood like baltic birch, maple, cherry or walnut. The most important part is sealing the wood though. If you take your time with that, you should be good!

Thank you so much for this advice!

@@Capri23x2 You are most welcome!

أنا سعيد لأنه كان مفيدا

Thank you. I have tried that myself, but didn't get the results I was looking for at least in my designs on this wood. Also, white will pick up the burn from the laser, so typically, you will need a few passes with drying in between to get it a bright white. Love the suggestion and will try it again. Cheers.

Glad you liked it!

I put tape on the back, but cut out the holes so the epoxy would flow through. Sometimes bubbles will form and hold the epoxy in. I usually have a toothpick handy and push it through while the epoxy is still fluid. The switch hole is big enough that is should be fine. Just make sure you cut the tape that is on the back. Feel free to ask more questions if this doesn't answer it.

I don't like to peel the tape especially in the more intricate detailed designs. I also had a lot of issues with the paint getting beneath the mask and then staining the wood.

Thank you for sharing that. I have tried tape when I first started out as that is what everyone was doing, but we kept getting some bleeding under the tape. And honestly, I absolutely hate removing the cut tape, especially on the intricate pieces.

I can relate to that but to me it's less work than clear coating, painting, sanding and clear coat again.. 🙂

Unfortunately for me, I am somewhat of a perfectionist and the tediousness of the tape kinda drives me insane. Most of my designs are very intricate.

Can't help you with the tedium of removing tape but maybe with the bleeding under the tape. My usual process is mask, engrave, clear coat, and then color fill. The clear coat will seal the edges of the tape, eliminating the bleeding.

Glad you like them! One of my favorite designs.

Watching these two characters play was my favorite. They were so funny.

Thank you so much 😀

It really is!

We think it is possibly soft maple. Not 100% sure though.

You're very welcome!

How about a cookie mold?

Great idea.

Love those moments!

Удачи и приятного времяпрепровождения!

I am not sure. Guess I will have to try it.

I just use inexpensive acrylic paint. I use these verses the more expensive paint because it had less pigment and more water, thus less likely to stain the surrounding wood and easier to clean. Acrylic is fast drying and easy clean up with just water. However, I encourage you to experiment with scrap wood!

It sure is!

Thank you very much.

It was such a surprise. Can't wait to work it into a table design!

Thank you!

Thank you very much!

I have not. Will try it next time. Thanks for the tip!