Still holding up really well, oem finish. I would definitely do this again. I think the key is taking your time and not putting too much pressure on the glass. Having 2 people really helped a lot.
Chris, The trim seal that you put at the top of the windshield, is that OEM? I get a part number. Thinking of replacing everything and all moldings when I do this and want to get it right the first time. Same thing with the clips?
These are the types of jobs that are best to have the pro’s that do these jobs all day everyday. It’s SO easy to bust a windshield while removing it, even with legit tools and not Amazon specials. Really surprised it didn’t bust on yall. Nothing towards yall, but I’ve had a lot of windshields removed by windshield companies and even they bust them. Could’ve turned into an expensive job. Good job not destroying it. 50:50 technique to luck when it comes to auto glass! Great video!
Maybe we got lucky, or maybe we're just that good. Quite often, the key to not making a mistake and damaging something is taking your time and being careful. We weren't in any rush to get this job done.
Tim, you got bigger ones than me! I’d be scared I’d have a leak afterwards. I’d definitely leave that one to the pros. Had to add that you three did an awesome job!
Thanks Ben. Chris has the biggest sack because it's his truck. He has to use a wheelbarrow to transport his balls place to place. It’s been many months since this repair, almost a year actually with no leaks. So we did something right.
4:40 I saw someone on the forums mention holding a soldering iron to the screw head for a few seconds at a time, so it can be heated without burning the plastic. Sounded like a smart idea to me but I heard about it after I already removed them. Just in case anybody here has trouble
That’s a good idea. A little heat should be able to loosen the factory loctite which is what is fighting you. We’ve also been successful with a JIS screwdriver and a couple good whacks from a hammer to loosen that bound too. And sometimes, a little tightening before you attempt to loosen. Thanks for the tip! - Sean
that is a fantastic idea! i have several very very small screws on a Corolla fan motor to the plastic shroud that are seized rusted welded in place that will NOT budge... emptied a can of PB blaster on them with ZERO results! perhaps this soldering iron heatup will do the trick! can i send you 2$ if it works? lol
I had a bad experience on my Land Cruiser, I spend on the new fresh OEM TOYOTA windshield because after market does not have de-icer just the factory one, So I paid dealer to replace the windshield replacement was ok but the side trims and brackets get damaged, So I trust and paid for the best by dealer… wrong at the end I have had to take all parts apart and rebuild all area with all new parts except for the windshield.
Lots of people assume they're going to get quality work done on their vehicle at the dealership, but then find out the hard way, the quality is missing. There's lots of incompetent and sloppy work done at dealerships and independent shops. You have to choose carefully who you trust to work on your Toyota.
@@TimmyTheToolman so does a CV axle replacement with NO apparent draining and refilling of front diff fluid (found it a 1/2 Qt LOW upon personal inspection change) plus the LBJs castle nuts NOT being cotterkey pinned for safety when they had to remove those to get the axles out qualify as Incompetent or sloppy?
This is a great video! I am going to replace the windshield in my 100 series LC. According to the FSM there are a couple extra steps but doable. Thanks guys!
Chris had original OEM Toyota glass, so he was keen on keeping that windshield for now. On the vehicles I had my windshield replaced on, I went with FUYAO which seems to be on a lot of newer Toyota and Lexus models. - Sean
When I replaced mine it originally had 2 rubber blocks at the bottom of it to support the weight of the glass. These blocks took the worry out of the windshield sliding down on you before the urethane sets.
When I built my pickup I started with a bare cab and had got the cab to the point of getting a windshield put in. Safelite can over and they installed the glass right in my driveway. The downside of it is I didn't have the original trim so they used a rubber or urethane seal that rapped around the glass and the seam was down on the lower center of the glass. I'm not sure on the time frame but I can say not even a year the seal pulled apart from the top of the glass, and at speed of 35 mph and higher it flaps around like a plastic bag. 89-95 pickups don't have a urethane seal originally, do you know of a place to get one?
Cool! interesting to watch. Great problem solving & team work. Is there a video for removing the piece between the window & hood, cowling? I want to paint mine. I'm in the middle of a restoration of mine. I like the green color, wish mine was that color.
i ended up just buying a new one for like $140. You'll need to buy the little white clips that cold it in place because they are a one time use and explode on removal. I was concerned if I painted it, it would just chip or flake in the sun since its black. Worth the $140 for piece of mind for another 20 years
Do you guys think that the air dam on the hood helps prevent chips? I'm going to take the Alcan highway up to AK, next year and I was thinking about getting one. Thanks for showing me something I hope I'll never have to do.
Well the rubber dam we show in this video is NOT the same as a “bug” deflector on the front of the hood… does that bug deflector help against rock chips? Possibly. It is intended to direct air so it could help. It definitely helps prevent rock chips on the hood. I will say that. - Sean
I went to a salvage yard for a windshield for an old ford truck found one and cut the rubber with a little pocket knife it was all I had. Using the old rubber and a can opener I put that glass back in.
@AnthonyAnderson-ej1px Well Anthony, about 95% of the videos we film are us doing the job for the very first time. So, we are literally learning and teaching at the same time. Sean and I don't ripoff other people's content and claim it as our own. We do use existing videos and write-ups as references, but we've never come close to copying someone's work. We possess integrity and know what it feels like when someone rips off our content because it has happened to us. So, what you were picking up on is the fact we've never done a windshield replacement before. This was our first and only time we've done it. In short, Anthony, your assessment was dead wrong about us. - Timmy
Still holding up really well, oem finish. I would definitely do this again. I think the key is taking your time and not putting too much pressure on the glass. Having 2 people really helped a lot.
Whats the part number for the rubber weatherstrip/gasket around the glass.
Chris, The trim seal that you put at the top of the windshield, is that OEM? I get a part number. Thinking of replacing everything and all moldings when I do this and want to get it right the first time. Same thing with the clips?
These are the types of jobs that are best to have the pro’s that do these jobs all day everyday. It’s SO easy to bust a windshield while removing it, even with legit tools and not Amazon specials. Really surprised it didn’t bust on yall. Nothing towards yall, but I’ve had a lot of windshields removed by windshield companies and even they bust them. Could’ve turned into an expensive job. Good job not destroying it. 50:50 technique to luck when it comes to auto glass! Great video!
Maybe we got lucky, or maybe we're just that good. Quite often, the key to not making a mistake and damaging something is taking your time and being careful. We weren't in any rush to get this job done.
Thank you this! this is something I need to do to my 3rd gen, and i knew i wanted to tackle it myself
You're very welcome! Good luck with the job.
Tim, you got bigger ones than me! I’d be scared I’d have a leak afterwards. I’d definitely leave that one to the pros.
Had to add that you three did an awesome job!
Thanks Ben. Chris has the biggest sack because it's his truck. He has to use a wheelbarrow to transport his balls place to place. It’s been many months since this repair, almost a year actually with no leaks. So we did something right.
4:40 I saw someone on the forums mention holding a soldering iron to the screw head for a few seconds at a time, so it can be heated without burning the plastic. Sounded like a smart idea to me but I heard about it after I already removed them. Just in case anybody here has trouble
That’s a good idea. A little heat should be able to loosen the factory loctite which is what is fighting you. We’ve also been successful with a JIS screwdriver and a couple good whacks from a hammer to loosen that bound too. And sometimes, a little tightening before you attempt to loosen. Thanks for the tip!
- Sean
that is a fantastic idea! i have several very very small screws on a Corolla fan motor to the plastic shroud that are seized rusted welded in place that will NOT budge... emptied a can of PB blaster on them with ZERO results! perhaps this soldering iron heatup will do the trick! can i send you 2$ if it works? lol
I had a bad experience on my Land Cruiser, I spend on the new fresh OEM TOYOTA windshield because after market does not have de-icer just the factory one, So I paid dealer to replace the windshield replacement was ok but the side trims and brackets get damaged, So I trust and paid for the best by dealer… wrong at the end I have had to take all parts apart and rebuild all area with all new parts except for the windshield.
Lots of people assume they're going to get quality work done on their vehicle at the dealership, but then find out the hard way, the quality is missing. There's lots of incompetent and sloppy work done at dealerships and independent shops. You have to choose carefully who you trust to work on your Toyota.
@@TimmyTheToolman totally agree…
@@TimmyTheToolman so does a CV axle replacement with NO apparent draining and refilling of front diff fluid (found it a 1/2 Qt LOW upon personal inspection change) plus the LBJs castle nuts NOT being cotterkey pinned for safety when they had to remove those to get the axles out qualify as Incompetent or sloppy?
Great timing on making this video, glad I drug my feet on doing mine.
Good luck with the job Caleb!
I can't believe you got the glass out without cracking it. Windshields are pretty fragile
Believe it, Francis. But who knows, maybe we had dumb luck doing this job.
@@TimmyTheToolman it was probably the weather lmao ... not super desert dry and not super midWest cold
Very factory looking job.
Thanks 👍 it looks better than new!
- Sean
This is a great video! I am going to replace the windshield in my 100 series LC. According to the FSM there are a couple extra steps but doable. Thanks guys!
Hey Richard, thanks for the compliment and good luck with the windshield replacement on your 100 Series. Happy Wrenching!
Most insurances will replace your windshield for $100 if you have a crack longer than an inch in it.
Chris had original OEM Toyota glass, so he was keen on keeping that windshield for now. On the vehicles I had my windshield replaced on, I went with FUYAO which seems to be on a lot of newer Toyota and Lexus models.
- Sean
When I replaced mine it originally had 2 rubber blocks at the bottom of it to support the weight of the glass. These blocks took the worry out of the windshield sliding down on you before the urethane sets.
Good idea.
When I built my pickup I started with a bare cab and had got the cab to the point of getting a windshield put in. Safelite can over and they installed the glass right in my driveway. The downside of it is I didn't have the original trim so they used a rubber or urethane seal that rapped around the glass and the seam was down on the lower center of the glass. I'm not sure on the time frame but I can say not even a year the seal pulled apart from the top of the glass, and at speed of 35 mph and higher it flaps around like a plastic bag. 89-95 pickups don't have a urethane seal originally, do you know of a place to get one?
Stay away from Safelite!!!
Most pisspoor material, glas and workers that are worse than Rookies!!!
I might have to do this.
I have a rusty roof and I feel like the rust is also where the glass sits. Not sure but better safe than sorry.
Yeah we agree, it’s better to address rust sooner than later so it doesn’t spread and cause more work for you in the long run.
- Sean
Great stuff. It is something i have to get out of the way soon. Thanks.
Thanks and you're very welcome. Good luck with the replacement.
Always sick mods.
Sicmods 4lyfe
Sick cooling mods, windshield delete
The only issue is you get bugs in your teeth if you smile too much.
Great job most be very precise and patient to have a perfect result.
Thanks!
Cool! interesting to watch. Great problem solving & team work. Is there a video for removing the piece between the window & hood, cowling? I want to paint mine. I'm in the middle of a restoration of mine. I like the green color, wish mine was that color.
Sorry, we don't have a video for that.
@@TimmyTheToolman It is just some phillips head screws near the glass and snap fittings under the hood.
@@christopherbrown5338 Sounds like it should be straightforward to remove.
i ended up just buying a new one for like $140. You'll need to buy the little white clips that cold it in place because they are a one time use and explode on removal. I was concerned if I painted it, it would just chip or flake in the sun since its black. Worth the $140 for piece of mind for another 20 years
Do you guys think that the air dam on the hood helps prevent chips? I'm going to take the Alcan highway up to AK, next year and I was thinking about getting one. Thanks for showing me something I hope I'll never have to do.
Well the rubber dam we show in this video is NOT the same as a “bug” deflector on the front of the hood… does that bug deflector help against rock chips? Possibly. It is intended to direct air so it could help. It definitely helps prevent rock chips on the hood. I will say that.
- Sean
Thanks, that's what I meant. Thanks for the videos! @@TimmyTheToolman
The OEM part number for the Toyota bug deflector is PT427-89011
Find a clearbra type material for temp use on long hispeed trip, then peel it off, Nascar style😎
I went to a salvage yard for a windshield for an old ford truck found one and cut the rubber with a little pocket knife it was all I had. Using the old rubber and a can opener I put that glass back in.
That's some MacGyver stuff right there.
I have to pull mine to repair rust from a previous install so maybe I can save money pulling it myself. Already cracked anyway
@@brentdavis7047 sending you good vibes with this mod. We hope this video has mentally prepared you for success!
- Sean
Sick Stache bruh
Thanks Bruh. We shot this video a while ago. I'm in the process of growing the stache back. I shaved it off.
👍👍👍
Thanks for the triple thumbs up.
1st one here
The real MVP 🙌🏼
You can’t crack your windshield if you have no windshield. #windshielddelete
This is very true. Just don't smile too much, or you'll get bugs between your teeth.
Second lol😂👍🏻 I’m just here for the sic mods!!
Any we appreciate you for that! 💪🏼
- Sean
Looks and sounds like their learning from another video off of TH-cam to make a video for TH-cam
@@AnthonyAnderson-ej1px they’re***** not their
@AnthonyAnderson-ej1px Well Anthony, about 95% of the videos we film are us doing the job for the very first time. So, we are literally learning and teaching at the same time. Sean and I don't ripoff other people's content and claim it as our own. We do use existing videos and write-ups as references, but we've never come close to copying someone's work. We possess integrity and know what it feels like when someone rips off our content because it has happened to us.
So, what you were picking up on is the fact we've never done a windshield replacement before. This was our first and only time we've done it.
In short, Anthony, your assessment was dead wrong about us. - Timmy