Engine Compression Test
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
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*PLEASE READ THIS AND THE COMMENT WE PINNED FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION*
In this video, we show you how to perform a compression test on your motor. The compression test was done on a Toyota 5VZ-FE 3.4 Liter V6 Engine but the procedure we share with you would be the same for any engine. You disable the ignition system, make sure you have no fuel going into the cylinders by either removing power to the fuel pump or using the Clear 'Flood Mode we show in the video, remove all the spark plugs, and then you're ready to start testing your cylinders with a compression gauge.
At the time of this compression test, my engine had 170,000 miles. I know the previous owner took very good mechanical care of the vehicle and I've taken very good care of it as well over the last 4 years I've owned it. It's nice to see confirmation that the engine looks really healthy and will hopefully last for a very long time to come.
*PARTS*
*If you have a Toyota 3.4 Liter V6 5VZ-FE engine and wanted to replace the spark plugs at the same time like I did in the video, here's a link to the spark plugs I purchased:
amzn.to/33VHWvR
*HELPFUL TOOLS*
If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.
www.amazon.com...
*20 Piece Screwdriver Set - (to undo wiring harness clips from air tube. This is a nice set if you're in the market for a set of screwdrivers) amzn.to/34aLrQ1
*1/4" and 3/8" Flex Head Ratchet Set - (to loosen and tighten air tube clamps and remove and replace spark plugs) amzn.to/2ql8nNA
*1/4” Drive Regular Extension Set
amzn.to/2O9nl2x
*1/4” Drive 6 Point Standard Metric Socket Set
amzn.to/2QIU7te
*3/8” Drive Regular Extension Set
amzn.to/2OehCao
*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Standard Socket Set
amzn.to/32WIh0M
*Small Pick Tool Set - (to help unclip spark plug wires from coil packs)
amzn.to/2MyN4AH
*Milwaukee Mi12 Cordless Ratchet - (to remove coil pack bolts. This Milawaukee ratchet will save you lots of time removing and installing fasteners) amzn.to/2utRZsE
*Milwaukee M12 Battery
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*Milwaukee M12 High Capacity Battery
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*Milwaukee M12 Battery Charger
amzn.to/2uo2o9x
*Lisle 51750 Adjustable Spark Plug Wire Puller - (to assist pulling spark wires)
amzn.to/2TD7yJS
*Magnetic Universal Spark Plug Service Kit, 5/8-Inch, 3 Piece - (this is a nice set. There's 3 different length wobble extensions permanently attached to the magnetic spark plug socket.)
amzn.to/3577BCX
*OTC 5605 Deluxe Compression Test Kit - (nice kit and reasonably affordable)
amzn.to/2t8aAKw
*CDI 3/8" Drive Inch Pound Torque Wrench - (to torque spark plugs and other fasteners)
amzn.to/2J8W8Kz
**As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases.
**As Amazon Associates we earn from qualifying purchases.
**Links about reading spark plugs:
www.ngksparkpl...
www.onallcylind...
www.4secondsfla...
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Just did this compression test after changing spark plugs, coils and wires. All cylinders are 190-205 except for cylinder 5 at 30. Thank Tim for this amazing wealth of info!
You're very welcome. You should do a leak down test of the #5 cylinder to figure out where you're losing that massive amount of compression. th-cam.com/video/8yuCHzqH7MY/w-d-xo.html
I have 150 on cylinder number 3 :(
I have a mysterious p0303. Just took it to a mechanic. Changed the coils, wires, spark plugs, he mentioned the injectors were working good. No head gasket issue according to him.
150 psi isn't great. You should do a leak down test on the cylinder to see where you are losing the compression. th-cam.com/video/8yuCHzqH7MY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=D7RGs6FmtmFB0Qx-
*PLEASE READ THIS COMMENT AND THE VIDEO DESCRIPTION FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION*
In the video, we made a mistake with some of the numbers we gave you out of the FSM. The 14 ft-lbf for the spark plugs is actually for the 3RZ motor. The 5VZ-FE engine calls for 13 ft-lbf or 156 in-lbf.
The suggested compression numbers are a little different too. In the video we tell you the cylinders should reach a compression of 178 psi or more and the difference between the cylinders should be 14 psi of less. Those were the numbers for the 3RZ engine. The compression numbers for 5VZ engine are 174 psi or higher and the difference between the cylinders should be 15 psi or less.
The numbers for the motors are very close to being the same value but we wanted to make sure you're getting the correct information. Thank you to Joseph Shaw for pointing this out to us.
The next time I do a compression test, I'm going to do 2 additional steps. #1, I'm going to disconnect the power to the fuel pump. #2, I'm going to pull the EFI relay. During the test, I still smelled a strong odor of gasoline so the clear flood mode possibly isn't 100% keeping fuel from dumping into the cylinders.
I really enjoy the video's you post. You are thorough and extremely clear on how to perform the task at hand and have allowed me to tackle my valve cover gaskets and steering rack bushings. I do want to point out that the torque you used for the plugs seems to be a ft lb off from the spec of 13 ft lbs for the 5VZ-FE. 14 ft lbs is what is needed for the 3RZ-FE. I only know this because I went to the dealer ship and got the proper torque spec. They almost told me 14 until we saw it was for the 3RZ. Likely not a big deal (within range of error for any realistic design) but I thought I'd let you know. Again much thanks for the great videos!
Hey Joe, thank you very much for pointing this out. You are absolutely correct. I was looking at the values for the 3RZ and not the 5VZ. Good catch. Luckily the values are very close.
FSM for the 2trfe advises simply pulling the C/OPN relay in the engine compartment to do a compression test. This is actually the same procedure it lists for depressurizing the fuel system for any fuel system work.
Gotcha
Thank you for doing all your videos. As a newbie, they’re very detailed so I can follow each job. Keep it up!
Rikki Moua we make our videos super detailed for people who are just learning. We hope you’re successful in your repairs!
Great video as usual. I just did a test on my 91 22re and all cylinders were between 190 and 200 psi and from what I've read the ideal numbers are 142-171, would you be concerned? Only thing I've found from reading is it could be carbon buildup on pistons
are you doing a BG MOA treatment to potentially clean any carbon buildup
Hi Tim. I am keeping my 2003 Tacoma Pre-Runner alive watching your videos. I appreciate that you have very clear videos and very clear explanations. I have 300k miles on the 5VZ-FE engine. I have been chasing an intermittent misfire and decided after watching the valve adjustment video for your Buddy's 5VZ to check the compression. I was expecting to have similar compression issues. I watched this video and today took the data. Unbelievably all cylinders were in the 210psi range. I think I have a golden engine.....knock on wood.
That's great to hear your engine is still solid. Hopefully you can figure out the misfire issue. Have you replaced your spark plug wires?
@@TimmyTheToolman it seems the fuel pump was getting intermittent. I replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter and voila no more misfire........hopefully. Time will tell. As the spark plugs, wires and coils had about 150k on them I replaced them the next weekend. We will see if the misfire comes back. Thanks again.
@@joeommen5329 That's great to hear Joe. Hopefully the misfire is gone for good.
Maybe a good time for a Berrymans or Seafoam vid. Straight though spark plug hole for a good soak in the lower compression cylinders. Then re perform that compression test. See if you get better results. Great vid!
Thanks for this. Just had my 3.4 "rebuilt" for my tacoma. Truck didn't feel any different so I did a compression test. Cylinder 1 is 120, 2 is 120, 3 is 135, 4 is 110, 5 is 125, 6 is 90. I think they must've charged me 4 grand to pressure wash the engine and sent it back.
That is not good. They couldn't have rebuilt it with those horrible compression numbers.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thats what I think too. Hopefully the shop will make it right.
@@Wyo_Roadhunter Yeah, they should.
When I took my waste plug wire off the #5 cylinder, the contact was so corroded I was amazed I didn't get a misfire code. I noticed you have foreign debris in your #5 too. I guess that area is susceptible to water and dirt. Another great detailed video my brother!! Keep 4Running...
Thanks Brother Jake. Glad you like the video.
Happy New Years!
Great video to start off 2018 and a lot of good information to go on.
A friend of mine performs the same procedure on his vehicles (especially with a new purchase) and every 30K when the spark plugs needed changing then recorded the results for future needs. (I thought it was a great idea if I had the time :) ) He lucked out as he stated that the vehicle didn't require Platinum or Iridium plugs which only require charging @ 60K too 100K on the clock or whatever the manufacturer stated requirements. (In those cases where no need to pull plugs without cause)
Having a compression test done will really paint a picture of Engine cylinder life but to have multiple test results over time will really provide invaluable wear conditions as well could show possible future cylinder issues. (If only, a few documented test are performed)
He also stated in the test results along with notes observed the Engine temperature and has performed both cold & warm test. ;). I'm glad you added that note to the video as this is overlooked.
Performing test at differing block Temperatures can show interesting as well misleading results.
But as the Manual states "warm engine" so those are the defining criteria results to use and not freak out on a cold engine result.
This is also true if the manual states for the test to be performed on a cold running engine!
Details are very important and are lacking or skipped on a lot of videos on TH-cam.
One reason we like your channel! :)
Like Intake gasket leaks, some leaks only happen when the engine is cold or very cold
(Yesterday morning the Temperature on the East coast drop down to 6 F, Lol You guys won't be seeing that anytime soon).
After the engine block heats up those leaks seal fast way before operating temperatures. If your having issues this is a very important/clue to document.
Not having such detailed data/information can/could cause a misinterpretation of the results and cause you to skip right over an issue your searching for.
I heard that pop/snap sound in your video. I've heard the sound myself before on other vehicles while performing a compression test. I notice on your engine it only happen once during a single test and that it did not accrue on cylinders 5 & 2, but was heard during cylinders on 1, 3, 4, and 6 only once. Interesting!
It could be a lazy/sticky valve or valve train but only because the all cylinders were open to Atmo. When the spark plugs are in vs open, there is a difference in forces applied like Pressure and Vaccum across the valve train but are equal when its together and running.
I wouldn't put much into it at the moment but its something to note down and keep an eye on.
After reviewing the video again, I did notice on the first cylinder (1) there was a small mist coming from spark plug hole/tube. You can see it during the crank of the engine, Seems like the seal was off a bit as well after when running the other cylinders you can see the puff /mist coming from cylinder one (1). I didn't notice any other cylinders producing a mist. Wonder if that was the source of the gas and if so, why didn't the other cylinders do the same. Maybe the video didn't pick them up.
I really like your mention of both Dry & Wet compression test. You don't hear that used much and can be a very good Diagnostic trick to perform when searching for an issue(s).
Learning to read spark plugs visual condition is very helpful. I'm no expert myself but knowing the difference between a good burn, Rich Burn, Lean Burn, Oil Burn, and Chem Burn (aka Anti-freeze) is very important.
Another overlooked part of reading spark plugs is the other side were the boot makes the HV connection.
Is it Clean, Oily, Rusted, and does it have trace marks?
Trace marks are a burn path along the ceramic the High voltage takes to ground instead of traveling through the spark plug causing a misfire, which would/could lead to a bad Boot insulation.
A good trick I use on HV Leads is a screwdriver ground to the block using a jumper wire. While the engine is running trace the wires from one end to another with the screw drive looking for a spark jump and a noticeable change in the sound of the engine. Sometimes a spritz of water can help (no drowning necessary) and you'll find the misfire that is caused by a pinhole you can't see with the naked eye.
I've had various luck in the "Clear Flood Mode" on vehicles myself. Some are easy, while some require certain conditions to be met while others I wonder if the option is even enabled or even active on ECM.
I've seen it where the Gas Pedal must be fully depressed before KeyOnEngineOff, or KeyOnEhgineOff then fully press the pedal and crank. It's weird.
As for the DTC P1300, you found. Using a generic code reader will only give you very basic information and without a little research, you won't know what the DTC truly means but the ignition is part of the Powertrain if not just one part out of over a hundred. :) Its the limitations of the software provided.
Its a pay to play thing. In most cases the more you pay the more you get, the Higher quality Diagnostic scanners you go will provide more detailed information will be provided. Sometimes you still need to do a bit of research on what the code setting criteria are in order to understand why it the DTC was set.
Look forward to another great Year with you guys!
Take care... :)
Wow, thanks for the reply Charles. Very informative. I also noticed the puff of mist coming out of some of the cylinders. I just attributed it to some fuel coming out. That popping sound was definitely worrying me, but since I've never performed a compression test before, I don't know what's normal to hear. It popped many times during the test. Like I said in the video, I'm not sure the Clear Flood Mode actually did what it was suppose to do. If I do it another time, I'd probably pull the power to the fuel pump and maybe pull the EFI relay in the fuse box as well.
Thanks again for your detailed responses. I've learned quite a bit from you.
No, Thank you Guys for bringing us all along with your videos.
It's our pleasure Charles. It's been a fun and rewarding ride so far and we have no plans on slowing down.
I'm learning a lot with you guys. Thank you so much!!
We're glad we can contribute to your Automotive Education. You're welcome and thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Tim, misfire on cyl 4. Changed plug on #4 and coil on #1. Compression on #4, with only that plug removed, was 130 psi. I can throw an injector at it, but I am not optimistic. 😬
130 PSI is pretty low. Have you checked your valve clearances?
@@TimmyTheToolman The spark plug boot was bad-arcing. It was something that I should have easily diagnosed. Thanks for your assistance. Now if I can just get my rear axle to stop leaking OMG I’ve replaced it four times.
@@ericbromley3532 I'm glad you figured it out. 130 psi is still pretty low for compression. I'd check the valve clearances for that cylinder.
adding any sort of extension to a torque wrench magnifies the value higher than intended.
ryan d So, can you tell me how to adjust the torque numbers when using an extension? For instance, you obviously need an extension when installing the spark plugs. Is there some magic formula based off the length and size of the extension? The Toyota engineers came up with a torque value for the spark plugs. They obviously know you will need an extension for this application. Maybe they factored that in when publishing a suggested torque value. But, at the end of the day, if you know how to turn a wrench, you will be able to tighten spark plugs correctly without the use of a torque wrench. I think a torque wrench is a valuable tool but there's many times I don't bother with it. A little common sense and some experience is all you need to avoid over-tightening fasteners and breaking/stripping them, and on the flip side, under-tightening them.
no doubt, tim and yes there is a formula. ill see if I can dig it up for you as its been a year or so since I used it. I hear where you're coming from on the common sense part. the amount is probably negligible on 12 ft. lbs or whatever you said but some of the bigger stuff it really throws it off. I'm an experienced wrench who comes for the love of yotas to see what you got going on. thanks
here you go give this a try...not what I used but the same concept.
www.rv7.us/a_u-torquewrenchsetting.htm
Don't get me wrong Ryan. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge. But, do you personally bother with making adjustments for extensions? Maybe if I was torquing the bolts for the heads, I'd be more concerned with being more exact. But then again, your torque wrench calibration could be a little off and there goes all that effort for exactness. There's also differences in manufacturing of these extensions. Maybe one brand is made of better steel then another and there's less flex. There just seems like quite a few variables that could throw off the value.
What's you background with wrenching? I'm just a dude that started wrenching at an early age but never got too involved with auto mechanics until recently. I'm having a good time and learning a lot.
in my line of work(mil) I have to make adjustments for extensions. there's too much riding on the line not to be exact so much so we have a QA rep watching every step of the maintenance actions. for my personal stuff I only use the directed torque from the manual less extensions when I can of course.
please don't take my comments as being negative and I probably shouldn't have said anything. for spark plugs myself I wouldn't even torque them. my comment was more of a hey be careful aluminum head type thing and applying a lot of force. id have to believe you are correct though on your assumption of Toyota taking the use of one into account when writing the manual. or at least lets hope they did. lol
happy wrenching!!!
Great video. Appreciate your work.
Just ran the test as described in this video (another great one btw). The three passenger side cylinders all read about 160. Low, I know, but I wasn’t expecting much given 300,000 miles on the motor. However the driver side read around 70 on all three. I figured a head gasket or bad rings would be 1 or 2 cylinders depending on the issue. What could cause all three to be bad? Time to head to the forums I guess...
There might be cracks in the head. It's pretty common. If you do a leak down test, you can verify where those cylinders are losing their compression.
What happens if you can't warm up the engine?
The compression numbers usually increase because the heat helps the piston rings seal a bit better with the cylinder walls. Steel expands with heat.
How to test if oil rings are worn or damaged?
Perform a leak down test, and you'll be able to figure out where you're losing compression. th-cam.com/video/8yuCHzqH7MY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=W3dWbhR4gYswskWF
Great video tutorial. Thank you Timmy for sharing your knowledge
We're glad you like the video Oswaldo. You're very welcome.
Thank you for taking your time on making this video as always. Very well detail and I love the way you have a service manual for reference. Where did you get that magnetic spark plug socket? Cheers 🍻
We're glad you like the video. You can buy a magnetic spark plug socket online from a company like Amazon or you can usually find them at an auto parts store too. You just have to get the right size socket. The two sizes I use on my rigs is 5/8" and 13/16".
Very well done... subscribed
Thanks Dan. Welcome to our channel.
Very detailed video. Getting ready to perform this on my Yaris. You state and my service manual states to keep throttle open while cranking. However, in the OTC instructions it has a warning, "failure to return throttle plate to closed position before starting engine can cause serious engine damage". I would assume following the service manual it would be fine, however should I be concerned about that warning?
Read that statement in the OTC kit again. I just read it myself. They are saying before "Starting" the engine, not turning it over for the compression check. If the throttle is held wide open when you start the vehicle, the engine will red line and you could damage the engine. That's what I think they meant to convey with that warning,
@@TimmyTheToolman So don't touch the gas pedal when cranking the engine? I'm asking because in the video it seems the assistant is holding down gas pedal while cranking. Just want to make sure I do it correctly and not risk engine damage.
@jollytime0811 You missed what the instructions said and what I said. There's a difference between cranking or turning over the engine and starting the engine. When you start the engine, it's running, and you're able to drive down the road. When you're just cranking or turning over the engine, it's not running. For the compression test, you do hold the gas pedal to the floor while cranking the engine. The warning in the OTC instructions is talking about not having the throttle plate locked in the open position when you START the engine and its running. I think the OTC instructions are saying if you physically manipulated the plate so the throttle plate can't close while doing the compression test, you need to undo whatever you did so the throttle plate can return to the closed position before you start the engine. If you start the engine with a wide open throttle, the engine will immediately be racing, like you have the gas pedal mashed to the floor. If you still don't understand, I'm sorry, this is the best I can do to convey what the OTC instructions were warning about.
@@TimmyTheToolman I understand now. You explained it better than the instructions. Thank you.
@@jollytime0811 You're welcome!
Another video says harbor freight ones are no good cause the shrader valve is on the gauge which makes the reading too low.
Don't know anything about the Harbor Freight model. My OTC compression and leak down testers work well.
Help! I have an engine misfire P0300 and I put in new plugs , wires , coils , and it’s still misfiring. I went to harbor freight purchased a compression test kit and my compression from cylinder 1,3,5,2 were 119-120psi, cylinder 4&6 were 140-142 psi. I know that the compression test for these engines are supposed to be 174psi or more? I know my compression is low but What am I dealing with here? Can anybody please help me figure out the next step?😊
I'd pull the valve covers and check the valve lash. th-cam.com/video/MOlmjtlO7TI/w-d-xo.html
This video is very clear and I like it.
Awesome. We're glad you like it.
Timmy I got this result for the engine compression test. What do you think about the result? Thank you
1. 200
3. 200
5. 225
2. 215
4. 220
6. 225
The numbers look fine. The first 2 cylinders are a little lower than the rest but I wouldn't lose any sleep over it. Hopefully your engine will last for a long time to come.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you so much!!. I'm glad to hear that 😁.
Since, the engine is burning oil and I think its leaking coolant. Do you think it'll be helpful to do a leak down test?
Thanks
@@Leino26 Yeah, if you're burning oil and losing coolant somewhere, a leak down test would be smart.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you so much. That's what I'm going to do !!.
Hey how would I go about doing this with the engine out of the truck
You could have the starter installed and send 12 volt power to the starter to turn over the engine. I've never tried this, but that's how I'd go about it.
@TimmyTheToolman what if I trun it with a impact wrench on the main crank bolt?
@@Cmc-365 That sounds like it could work.
Thank you sir, great video and explanation
You're very welcome.
That battery has some good cranking amps.
Yeah, it did.
Would it be possible for you to do the same compression test but on a 2UFEZ V8? I have a 2005 Sequoia that I'm trying to ensure that there is nothing wrong with the engine before I replace the cats.
I replaced coils and spark plugs and the downstream O2 sensors. I am going to replace the 2 upstream sensors too. The engine is smooth and I have only the codes for the cats no misfire codes but I do feel a little intermittent mis. I also used injector cleaner, etc. So, I am thinking that it would be good to do a compression test next. Great video!!!
You could use the same technique we use in this video to do a compression check of the cylinders. You would just have to look up what are normal compression numbers for that engine.
Nice tutorial.) I also watched the one for changing transmission fluid and I plan to use your method on my wife's RX300 and for my 2003 4Runner. A question on the spark plugs. I don't have a torque wrench but I have heard some people say, for crush washers, to do it by hand until it makes contact then with your wrench give it half a turn. Kinda takes the feel out of it but I'm a rookie so I am not sure I would know the proper feel anyway. Any thoughts? Cheers, Sean
Hey Sean, I wrenched on vehicles many many years without a torque wrench and never broke any fasteners or had something come loose on me. In some applications, torque wrenches are crucial like tightening the head onto the block, but in most applications, you can get away without having a torque wrench.
For spark plugs, you can feel when the crush washer makes contact with the head. Then you can feel the crush washer compress and finally feel when the spark plug bottoms out and gets tight. Spark plugs don't need to be super tight so I pay attention to how much mechanical advantage I'm giving myself. I wouldn't install the spark plugs using a long 1/2" drive ratchet with my hand on the end of the ratchet handle. For spark plugs, I use a 3/8" ratchet and I choke up on the handle a bit to lessen the mechanical advantage. After the crush washer bottoms out, I tighten some more until I feel the spark plug is snugged up tight. I'm not using maximum mechanical advantage and I'm not using all my strength either. I've never used some method of a half-turn or whatever other people come up with. It's all by feel. I would just err on the side of being a little loose rather than too tight. After you install the first spark plug, you'll get the feel of it. Feel the crush washer compress, tighten some more until it feels pretty tight and you're done.
I hope this helped you out. Let me know how it goes for you. Happy Wrenching!
Thanks!
Thanks Jerry for your very generous Super Thanks. We really appreciate it! Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman You are very welcome! You have saved me a lot of money with your videos - thank you!
@jerrykraus3621 Our pleasure Jerry!
Great video as always. We’re you able to figure out the codes for Greg’s Tacoma and resolved the misfire issue?
Yes, we finally figured out his issue was gross crankshaft play. Check out the video: th-cam.com/video/9Gpdq-tL79U/w-d-xo.html
timmy why dont you use the denso plugs that are the same as the toyota oem?
NGK makes good spark plugs, but you can't go wrong with Denso.
Should I be concerned about the battery having less cranking power on the last cylinder than the first?
How old is the battery? Depending on how many cranks you did without starting the engine, it could have pulled a little juice from the battery without the alternator charging it. Kind of like leaving a light on in the cab.
What adapter size did you use from the compression tester? Is itbthe 16mm?
I used the one that fit the spark plug threads. That's about as technical I can get for you. You should be able to figure it out pretty easily matching the compression tester fitting to the spark plug.
Great Video very complete!
Glad you liked it!
Do you know what a 2.4 liter Toyota engine compression numbers are??
Great Video once again. bought a kit from HF. Hopefully it works. How often do we need to change our spark plugs? I have the original oem plugs. Also any idea what caused the code?
Terry Giovanakis Hey Terry, it depends which type of spark plugs you have. The iridium plugs are suppose to be good for 60,000 miles. Regular plugs are normally good for 30,000 miles. I never found out why that check engine code came up but I honestly didn't put any research into it either. The code never came back.
Hey! I apologize if I missed it in the video. Did you do this test with the engine hot or cold. I have heard to do it hot?
You would want the engine at operating temp for this test. So yes, hot, not cold.
@@TimmyTheToolman Dude you are awesome! Thank you so much for replying, not many youtube channels do that.
@@sully8169 We actually read and answer most questions we get and also acknowledge the people who took the time to comment. We're not a huge channel that gets hundreds of questions and comments everyday so we can usually keep up with it. It can be a big time investment depending on the day, but we think it's important. Thanks and you're very welcome!
Can this test be used to find out timing belt adjustment? Thanks
No, it can't. If you working on a 3.4 liter V6 engine like we're doing in this video, you need to be able to see all three timing marks and it's pretty easy to do. Compress the upper radiator hose clamp closest to the engine and slide it back on the hose. Next remove the 6 upper timing cover bolts and slide the cover back until you can see the cam pulleys. Get a 19mm socket onto the crank bolt and turn the engine clockwise until the lines on the cam pulleys line up with the timing notches on the timing cover behind them. Once those are lined up, look down below to confirm that the line in the crank pulley lines up with the "0" on the timing mark tab. All 3 timing marks should be lined up. If they aren't, either the last person who did the timing belt swap messed up or the belt somehow jumped.
If you're working on another engine, you could check to see if the timing is off with a timing light and the procedure to do this can be specific to the engine.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks very much
Hey Tim, I got an exact 103 across every single cylinder. The engine appears to run fine, I just wanted to do a compression test to make sure it was fine before moving onto other things. It seems low, but constant. considering it works fine do you think that I have anything to worry about? note: I watched this and also read the fsm after the fact (oops). the car was cold when I did my test.
Your numbers would be higher when the engine is warm. Do it again with the engine at operating temp to see what numbers you get. Even if the numbers still stay low, the only thing you can do is check valve clearances and see if that's where you're losing compression. If you're losing it past worn out piston rings, well, you had to rebuild the engine to fix that. Just drive it and hope the engine lasts you for a long time to come.
Thank you!
You're welcome!
@@TimmyTheToolman I had disappearing collant 2006 Tacoms 2.7L, leak down test but not compression test. All cylinders 0%, #2 5%. Block test negative. Coolant pressure test held at 13psi for ten minutes/ Toyota Dealersip. Now thinking about adding UV dye to coolant. Drive as usual, take to dealership, to do compression test, change spark plugs, but look in cylinders (and under the hood) and on spark plugs for the dye using the black light, yo see if head gasket leak. Have you ever used the uv dye before? Is it safe to use? Can it damage the coolant system, water pump, etc, or the engine? Engine not running right, dealership not being much help.
@ruthdanielson919 I've never used the dye, but I would assume it's safe to use.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you. Will ask the dealership and neighborhood mechanic. Looks like an easy way to diagnose a head gasket leak. Thank you again, so much.
@ruthdanielson919 You're welcome. Also, check out this video where we diagnose a head gasket issue. th-cam.com/video/nelMt1UCEnU/w-d-xo.html
Timmy… I love your videos! but man you should look at the gauge more carefully lol
Are you saying my eyes need checking?
@@TimmyTheToolman Lol maybe a slight difference in a couple of readings, that’s all
Hey Timmy great video! I've got a question for you. If a 3.4 had head gaskets replaced on it at about 260000 miles and the heads were not machined or reworked during that process is that engine now possibly a ticking time bomb? I called a local reputable garage to see what they would charge to do a valve adjustment on it since the valves have been noisy since the gasket replacement and when I told the guy that I wasn't sure if the heads had been reworked he said he wanted nothing to do with that, that I had a ticking time bomb on my hands, and literally said good luck and hung up on me! THAT was pretty doggone discouraging. The guy that did the work for me is no longer with us, so obviously I can't ask him if the heads were reworked or not. And I never thought about it at the time and honestly didn't know that was important out of pure ignorance. He actually told me that the bottom end was in perfect condition and still looked more less like new, so I thought I was pretty much good to go. However, it runs a little sluggishly now, which I had hoped valve adjustments would take care of. But now I'm feeling like maybe I should just sell the truck and wash my hands of it, as I can't afford another top end rebuild let alone a full engine rebuild. Sorry, long story, but thank you!
Hey Steve, I'd start with a compression test and see if any cylinders are low. If there are low cylinders, do a leak down test and determine where the compression is going. It's either going out the piston rings, a bad intake valve, a bad exhaust valve, out a bad head gasket into a coolant channel, or out a bad head gasket into a neighboring cylinder.
Maybe when the guy did the work the heads were checked at a machine shop and they were fine. I wouldn't classify your engine as a ticking time bomb at all at this point. Maybe all it needs is a valve adjustment and you're good to go.
Let me know how this turns out for you.
Timmy The Toolman ok Timmy, great advice and you've given me a little hope. I'll do the compression test and see what happens. Thanks again, I really appreciate your channel and hard work! And the reply!
You're welcome Steve. Let me know how the compression test goes.
can i just pull the efi fuse to cut fuel?
I'm pretty sure you could Michael. It makes total sense. For the video, we just wanted to follow the FSM instructions and it said nothing about the need to cut the fuel source to the cylinders. Putting the gas pedal to the floor puts it in Clear Flood Mode and supposedly turns off the injectors but we definitely smelled gas while doing the test. The FSM doesn't tell you what putting the gas pedal to the floor is doing for you but I read about it on various websites and it was mentioned in other videos on the subject.
When I do this job again, I'm going to disconnect the power to the fuel pump and pull the EFI Relay as well. We show how to disconnect power to the fuel pump in our Fuel Filter Replacement Video: th-cam.com/video/vdDhXZIs6Lo/w-d-xo.html
Awesome! good to know.. contemplating tackling this job myself
It's not hard Mike. You just have to get a compression tester and have someone to crank over the engine for you while your moving the gauge from cylinder to cylinder.
Cool !!
Also good idea would be to clean your throttle body once you are there...
Terry Giovanakis Yeah, of course. If you throttle body is due for a cleaning, this is a good opportunity to do it.
Geat video again. How many miles on your engine?
From what I read P1300 is also ignition code (P1300 TOYOTA - Igniter Circuit Malfunction No. 1). After cranking with ignition disconnected it makes sense.
I have 170,000 miles on my engine. Thanks for this question because I never mentioned the mileage in the video. And thanks for the info on the P1300 code.
Wow 170 K!! It does look nice . My truck has 131K, beside the little rust on the chrome fenders everything looks good!!!
I'm hoping I'll be able to take this engine into the 400,000's.
Good luck!!. I want to keep it mine too
Did you ever figure out the piping sound while doing the compression test?
No, but I have a guess. Since we are not disconnecting the fuel pump for this operation, I think the popping sound is the fuel pressure regulator popping to relieve the excess pressure in the fuel system.
Timmy The Toolman awesome my man , 👍🏽👍🏽
My 2000 4runner is misfire and the compression test came out that number 3cylinder is 30 and all other are around 180, what could be the problem,? Any ideas
You need to next perform a leak down test of the cylinder to see where the problem is. The pressure could be escaping into a cooling channel letting you know you have a bad head gasket or cracked head. The pressures could be getting past the piston rings. It could be getting past a burnt exhaust valve or valve seat. It could also be getting past a poorly adjusted intake valve or damaged valve seat. We plan on making a leak down test video within the near future but you could search on TH-cam for videos on the subject. As for tools, you'll need a leak down tester and an air compressor.
I think you maybe didn't have enough compression on the o rings on those two low cylinders.
It's possible.
@@TimmyTheToolman Im working on a 3rd gen I bought that had a timing belt that slipped. I redid the timing belt(properly timed everything), and it started right up. It made a ton of clattering on startup so I shut it down. It had basically no oil. I filled it with oil, and the noise went down, but it now ticks loudly and consistently. Previous owner says it didnt tick prior to timing belt failure/slipping. I tore it down to spark plugs last night, and ill be checking for compression tonight to further narrow the ticking noise down.
@@davidfarmer Good luck.
Hello I have a 2002 tundra 4.7 I accidentally drove it in second (automatic trans) for about 7 miles on interstate truck got hot never cranked again it blew the bottom of the radiator off . Fixed that but not cranking seems to be turning over faster than normal but no oil or water mixing or loss since I put radiator in it .. do you think it’s worth pulling the heads?
Interesting. How did you not realize you were in 2nd gear. You must have had the stereo turned up loud to not notice the engine rpms screaming. It's hard to say the damage you did by overheating it.
So you're saying the engine turns over but doesn't start, correct? Also, how do you know you didn't crack the heads since you can't start it? You would need it running to confirm there isn't a mixing of the oil and coolant. But, even with cracked heads, the engine would still run.
Maybe take the upper plastic timing covers off and see if the timing belt is intact and didn't snap. We have a 2UZ Timing Belt video that will show you how to get those covers off. th-cam.com/video/zRPhl1xcYYw/w-d-xo.html
Hey Tim! Got a ? I have a ‘97 toy 4R SR5 3.4L. Bought it new. It’s has 340k miles. It’s been a mechanical blessing. It’s well taken care of. No oil leak etc... It’s throw the knock censor code and at first it was un noticeable, but after about a month gas mileage and performance suffered. My dilemma...should I break into the plenum and intake and replace the sensors and wires or do I pickup a used motor with less mileage and replace? What do you think? Lee
Well, if the engine is having poor performance, the knock sensors are probably picking up on a problem with your engine. Sounds like the sensors are doing their job and replacing the sensors aren't going to fix the problem. You need to do some diagnosing and a compression test to see how healthy your cylinders are is a good place to start.
Timmy The Toolman thanks Tim.
Nice shoes Shawn.
you got the same pair? OG boyee
Your videos are so helpful. I really appreciate it. I read a couple posts of yours on 4runner forum. Did you ever figure out the clunk when you take off. Possible slip yoke problem. I know you said it was better after the ford grease...
I'm still getting the rear end clunk. Really annoying. I know it has to do with the rear slip yoke because it improves every time after I grease it really good. I think the slip yoke got damaged over the years because it wasn't properly lubricated. There's some play in the splines and I think that's allowing it to hang up a bit. Oh well, I can live with it for now.
Timmy The Toolman I’m sure mine is the same issue. It’s annoying. I try not to come up on stops too fast so I don’t notice it much if at all. 20 year old truck I guess a thing here or there will have issues. Totally appreciate the videos though. Your attention to detail of each step is perfect.
Sean and I are glad you are liking the videos. Some people like short and sweet videos but I find those usually lack the detail I want when trying to figure out how to properly perform a job. We'd rather give people too much information than not enough. With our videos, we're tailoring them to the novice mechanic and not an accomplished professional mechanic. An experienced mechanic only needs an outline of what needs to be done while a novice will benefit from the extra detail so they don't get confused on any portion of the job. This makes our videos longer than most repair videos but we don't care. If people get tired of listening to me talk, they can always fast forward and get to the parts they want to see.
Thanks for taking the time to comment. We appreciate it. Happy Wrenching!
Timmy The Toolman I just started my channel and while it’s different content I started out making shorter than 10 min videos. However, some people have requested I go into more detail because it’s interesting. I’m with you on stuff like this needing detail .
There is something to be said about concise and to the point. I think this is why a guy like Chris Fix is so successful. His videos are quick, to the point and informative. But, I've found some of Chris Fix's videos lacking some important details too. People's attention spans are getting shorter and shorter so quick and to the point videos are going to be sought after. I like to be very detailed, probably due to me being a little OCD, so it's hard for me to not give a ton of information especially when I think the info is really important to convey to the audience.
What kind of videos are you making?
Why would my v6 start white smoking after driving for 1hr 30mins at 110kms ??? Cheers
Don't know. Is your coolant level going down or is it staying steady. A blown head gasket or cracked head will allow coolant to enter the cylinder and be consumed with the combustion process of the engine. White smoke can be a sign you're burning coolant but it can also be a sign your engine is burning oil. Does your engine consume oil between oil changes?
Hi Timmy, Can you do a compression test on more than one cyclinder at the same time if you do have extra guage?
Hey Richard, I don't see why you couldn't use two gauges at once. You however wouldn't want to use them in neighboring cylinders on the same head because one way you can lose compression is to a neighboring cylinder through a crack in the head and this would hide the fact there's a crack.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for the reply. Subscribed.
@@richardyap7873 You're welcome and thanks for subscribing.
Those are platinum plugs
Ok.
You are great 👍🏻
Thanks for saying so Bro. Sean and i appreciate it.
I'm kicking the idea around to supercharge my 3.4 so i did a compression test with the same OTC tool. Results were 155 to 170 psi. As per the manual I have they fall in the acceptable range of 15 psi but are lower than the ideal of 174 psi. Do you think there is enough life left in it to warrant the $ that i'm going to spend on a sc and all the other goodies to go with it?
Sure, why not. If your engine dies, pull off the supercharger and swap in another motor. Or, if you don't want to keep the vehicle anymore, sell the supercharger separate. No doubt somebody would love to buy it from you.
The factory service manual I have says minimum pressure 145psi. 15 psi difference between cylinders or less.
Hey Tim! I just watched your video and did the test. Unfortunately, I let it idle for about 25 min instead of driving it only because the truck is in my fenced area for the winter. My results were 210, 203, 203, 198, 185, 200. That's a 25 psi difference similar to your 30 psi difference. Should I worry about this? or try to drive the vehicle and test again? Also, I did hear the same pop noise in a few cylinders while testing. Did you ever figure out what the pop was? Should I worry about this either? My truck has 223,000 on the clock .Any feedback is greatly appreciated! and thanks again for all that you do.
Hey Tim! Im kind of losing sleep over the 25psi difference lol. Should I really worry about this? Cylinder #4 185psi being the lowest and Cylinder #1 210psi being the highest. Any feedback is greatly appreciated. Thank you very much
I wouldn't lose sleep over it but you could take it one step further and check your valve clearances. Maybe the low cylinder could use a valve lash adjustment and you'll improve the compression.th-cam.com/video/MOlmjtlO7TI/w-d-xo.html
Thank you so much for this information. I’ll look into this asap. Have a great weekend! 🙏🏼
@cybrah You're very welcome. You have a great weekend as well.
@@TimmyTheToolman This seems like a lot of work and frustration, but I'll try and do this at some point. Hopefully the 25psi difference changes after driving, when I recheck this weekend. If it doesn't and I choose not to do a valve lash adjustment right away, will the 25 psi difference do any harm to the engine if I keep driving it? My other cylinders have great compression, with my lowest cylinder at 185psi. I know the FSM states no more than 14psi diff. Any feedback is greatly appreciated. Thank you
Awesome video! I’ve got a question I’m hoping someone can answer. I’ve had a random hesitation on an ‘06 Tacoma that started about four years ago, about a year after I purchased the truck. Since the hesitation started, it’s never throw a code and I’ve changed the spark plugs, cleaned the throttle body sensor, checked and changed any fuses, replaced the MAF sensor and the PCV valve. Each time I’ve replaced or worked on the truck I’ve reset the ecu. Nothing has fixed this random hesitation. The last two things I can think to do are actually replacing the throttle body sensor or replacing the fuel pump. Any suggestions and will checking the fuel pressure tell me if the fuel pump is bad? Thanks in advance!
Yeah, maybe the throttle position sensor would be a logical next thing to replace. I would think if it was the fuel pump, the problem would be more consistent.
Timmy The Toolman thank you! It's every time I drive the truck but you mean more persistent like if it's been doing it for five years it would eventually completely fail?
@@rickyepps I was thinking if the fuel pump wasn't performing correctly that you'd have less power and hesitation all the time. I suppose it could be an intermittent problem though. There is a way to check fuel pressure, but if it's an intermittent problem, you'd have to get lucky that the fuel pump is recreating the problem while you're checking the pressure to rule out the fuel pump. I've never checked the fuel pressure myself so I wouldn't be of much help. Maybe try the throttle position sensor next and see if that fixes the problem for you. Problems like this are quite often a pain in the butt to figure out and hopefully you'll find the answer soon. Sorry I couldn't be of more help to you.
@@rickyepps Hey Ricky, good to hear you figured out the problem. Happy Wrenching!
Timmy The Toolman hey Timmy, so it seems like when I reset the ECU it'll will run perfect for like ten or different minutes and then it's back to this hesitation. I thought I had it fixed with replacing the ETB sensor but now it's back to the same old hesitation. Is it something in the ECU? I don't get why I runs fine for a little while then goes back to this hesitation. Thanks again
So if the pressure needle stays at pressure level, why do you need a second person?
I'm not sure what you're asking. Could you give a time in the video for what you're referring to?
I think you're asking why do I have somebody cranking over the engine for me. The reason is I'm watching the needle on the gauge while my helper is turning over the engine. When I see the needle stop rising, then I tell my helper to stop. Without the helper, you would be guessing how many times to crank over the engine for each cylinder. But, I guess you could just crank it over more times than you think you need per cylinder and successfully do this operation on your own.
@@TimmyTheToolmanI was trying to do a compression test by myself and thought that the tester would keep the needle pointed at the max pressure. Others show it that way, but you said to get someone to turn the car ignition, so you could see it. Mine wasn't holding either so I videotaped it. It was so low, I think it just wasn't registering due to tool issue or something. Car runs fine.
@@girohead Engines can run fine even though the compression is low in some cylinders. If it was super low, I would agree there's probably something wrong with the tool.
@@TimmyTheToolmanThanks for feedback, I just tried with new tester without the quick disconnect and all cylinders are rock solid as Toyota should be. Now to go after the first guy for 'pain and suffering'..:P
Do you have a leak down test video?
Ask and you shall receive. th-cam.com/video/8yuCHzqH7MY/w-d-xo.html
@@TimmyTheToolman you are the best. Thanks again
@@babblingidiot7903 You're welcome. Hope it turns out your cylinders are all good.
Buy only made in USA period.
I'm not sure what you're referring too.
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Sean***