Steering Play Fix
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
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*PLEASE READ THIS VIDEO DESCRIPTION FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION*
In this video we show you how to fix play in your steering shaft on a 3rd Gen 4runner or 1st Gen Tacoma. If you have play in your steering that you just can't figure out, it might be coming from the main steering shaft.
If you like the tack weld method but don't own a welder, you could simply take your shaft to a local shop that welds, a muffler shop would be a possible choice, and have them throw on a couple quick tack welds onto the shaft for you. I can't see a shop charging you more than $20 bucks to do this for you.
**Link to a TTORA forum write-up for this repair:
www.ttora.com/...
**If you were wondering what a replacement steering shaft would run, it's around $230 (online pricing). Steering Shaft - Part Number #45210-60121
ebay.us/pdlzLI
*HELPFUL TOOLS*
If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.
www.amazon.com...
*JIS Screwdriver - (not used in video but this is a much better screwdriver to use on Japanese made vehicles. Japanese vehicle are made with Japanese Industrial Standard screws and not phillips head screws. There's a slight difference and a JIS screwdriver will fit the heads better so less chance of stripping) amzn.to/31nlP0f
*Telescoping Magnet Pick-up Tool - (15 lb pull capacity) - (to help remove screws from steering column trip piece) amzn.to/35LM4jo
*Auto Trim Removal Set - (to help separate steering column trim halves)
amzn.to/37vgzvH
*Vice Grip Set - (used to remove tilt wheel springs)
amzn.to/2EuMuyX
*Brite-Mark Medium Tip Paint Marker, Orange - (used to mark steering shaft)
amzn.to/2OyTwre
*Painter’s Tape - (used to hold steering wheel in position)
amzn.to/2PnQojx
*1/4" and 3/8" Flex Head Ratchet Set - (used a 3/8" ratchet on the steering shaft bolt. These ratchets are super functional and will make your wrenching life easier)
amzn.to/2ql8nNA
*3/8” Drive Shallow Impact Socket Set
amzn.to/2KnoYaq
*Allen Wrenches (Metric and SAE) - (used a 6mm allen wrench to remove allen screws that hold steering shaft in place. This is a nice complete set of metric and SAE allen wrenches) amzn.to/34blIqP
*Straight Needle Nose Pliers - (used to compress plastic clips to separate wiring harness from the steering column) amzn.to/2pQ6yIa
*Molybdenum Fortified Lithium Based Grease - (used a moly lithium based grease to lubricate steering tilt wheel ball) amzn.to/2OZMFr7
**As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases.
**As Amazon Associates we earn from qualifying purchases.
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*PLEASE READ THE VIDEO DESCRIPTION FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION*
I got everything apart and I'm waiting on Amazon to deliver the rolled pins. I just noticed the spring inside the ball looks exactly like the spring for the steering guide. I still have my old spring from the guide so I will compare the two and let you know if they are the same spring rate or not. I'm looking for a beefier spring for the ball to see if that might work instead of the shim but, I'll probably go the shim route in the end. After the ball was re-installed with the shim was there any space at all between each half?
@@marksimcoe4105 With the shim installed, there was no gap. It made getting the ball in place pretty tight.
@@TimmyTheToolman With the shim installed we have effectively taken the spring out of the equation and it's basically acting like a solid ball. I wonder why Toyota doesn't make it a solid piece (out of Delrin) as it would no doubt be less expensive to make. Also, I did not notice this until I was starting to drill the hole for my pin but, there are two nylon pins installed already. Two on one side and two on the other side (they are white). They don't go all the way through so there are really 4 different pins. The part of the column in the middle of the shaft is solid not hollow as I thought it would be. So there is a lot of metal to drill through and I wore out a carbide tipped drill bit trying to drill through to the other side (could have been a cheap bit). Anyway, if you plan on drilling all the way through I would suggest a drill press and not a hand held drill. One alternative would be to use the holes for the nylon pins. The nylon pin size is a shade under 1/8 of an inch so you could drill out the nylon pins with a small bit (less than 1/8 inch) and then try to tap in a 1/8 inch rolled steel pin (I would try 1/8 first then 3/32 if 1/8 doesn't work) and you might not even have to drill a hole. I would suggest welding anyway and that is what I plan to do when I get back to Atlanta even though I will install a pin to fix the issue until then. Hope this helps someone.
Mark Simcoe thanks for adding your experience.
Mark Simcoe Yeah, a couple lite tack welds is the way to go in my opinion.
Extremely glad I found this video. I feel like I've been chasing a ghost for years now. This thing would swerve unexpectedly next other vehicles and semitrailers. Im talking about going crazy trying to figure out why this truck is doing what i call drunk man steering. I have replaced everything on the front end of my lil Tacoma 2rz that i could think of and other mechanics could think of. Wheel bearings, brake rotors, inner and outer tie rod ends and ball joints, rack, sway bar bushings, and about 8 alignment shops later come to find out its sloppy fit with in the steering column. A few tack welds and other modifications and Now My lil Tacoma literally handles like a go-cart. If i could hug you i literally would right now
Hey Jacob, sounds like you went to hell and back with this problem and I'm happy you finally found the fix you needed on our channel. Virtual hug accepted. Happy Wrenching!
Drill and tap outer shaft directly where the plastic shear pins are located. Install set screws and tighten down to apply pressure on the inner shaft. This eliminates the wheel shake and still allows the shaft to collapse in the event of a frontal collision. I had a 2003 that I did this to myself ( former mechanic) and worked great. The roll pin idea works only for a short time because eventually the holes will slightly egg shape and become loose again. The set screw could be tightened more if / when needed. A bit of lock tite is even better.
Thanks for the idea.
So the set screws tighten into the hole of the inner shaft? Good idea. I'm sure thread locker is a must.
Thanks to this suggestion, I did this on my 4R last week with 2 M4x0.70 5mm set screws on opposing sides (4 total). Perfect fix. My steps (after removing steering wheel and shaft per the video) were:
1. Put the wheel and shaft on the workbench. With a drill bit sized to match the plastic sheer pins, drill them both out just deep enough to pass through the outer steel tube but not all the way through.
2. Use a paint pen or sharpie to match mark the outer and inner shaft for alignment and *DEPTH* later. We're going to remove the other tube entirely.
3. Lock the inner shaft in a vise. Use a brass punch and hammer to tap the outer shaft completely off of the inner shaft.
4. Take the inner shaft out of the vise. Put the outer shaft in the vise with the existing shear pin holes facing up. Using a 1/8" drill bit, drill out the existing holes and keep going all the way through, drilling holes on the other side of the shaft as well.
5. Tap the 4 holes with an M4x0.70 tap
6. Take the shaft out of the vise. Check your match marks on the inner and outer shaft, line them up, and use a plastic mallet or something after than the steel shaft to hammer the outer shaft back onto the inner shaft. Tap it up to the mark you made earlier to set the correct length.
6. Install your 4 set screws with some blue loctite.
You can also just crimp it or shim it, less work
This worked great! Thank you!
Another great video! This completely tightened up my steering slop. I've already replaced tie rods and a leaky steering rack last year but there was about an inch of free play at my steering wheel and this was the culprit. Rather than tack weld we decided to "dimple" the shaft in a few places with a center punch. While this may work itself loose again in a few years, it feels rock solid right now and seems more likely to be able to collapse in a collision. If it does get loose in the future, it's pretty quick to pull it out again. We did the "tilt ball" shim as well to be sure. Thanks Tim!
Hey Max, great to hear this fixed your steering slop and thanks for sharing your technique for fixing the shaft play. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Sweet. I am going to attempt this on my. 2008 camry 2.4l.
I spent 2 years trying to figure out what was the problem with my loose steering…I am so glad I came across this video. I feel like a weight has been lifted from my shoulders. THANK YOU TIMMY!
You're very welcome Tyler. It was a team effort between Chris, Sean and I.
Did this over the weekend and wow. My 4runner feels like a completely different vehicle. Drives like a newer car now.
Thanks for the detailed video, it was super easy to follow.
You're welcome Kevin. Glad the repair went well for you using our video.
Thank you for this. My shaft was the problem. I gave the world's worst rookie weld and it fixed it right up. 2000 4Runner 2wd SR5.
Good job. I did mine yesterday. I had lots of play in my steering wheel. The Toyota dealer 14 years ago couldn’t figure out the exact cause of the problem and recommended changing the whole steering assembly (column and gear). Due to the huge cost I declined the recommendation. Thanks to your video, I now figured out the issue (14 years later!!!). I bought a used intermediate shaft with no play in it from a u-pull-it junk yard for $11. By pulling the part myself at the junk yard I got to practice the overall process as you described it and I did not sacrifice safety by spot welding the existing shaft. I cut to size a very thin general-purpose gasket (got it from NAPA for $4) to shim the plastic tilt balls on the new shaft. I disconnected the old intermediate shaft by rotating the tilt balls as described in your video and replace it with the newer shaft. Basically, I connected the new intermediate shaft to my existing steering wheel assembly right at the tilt balls joint.
Hey Sami, glad our video helped you out and you were able to eliminate the slop in you're steering. Good job fixing it yourself and avoiding the huge expense you would have incurred at the dealer if you followed their advice. We love hearing success stories like this. Thanks for taking the time to comment. We appreciate it. Happy Wrenching!
Hello Tim. I enjoy your videos and your detailed explanations!!!. Any plans on showing how to change the Automatic Shifter Linkage bushings on a 1998 4WD 4runner ? Here are couple of youtube videos on the topic: th-cam.com/video/wilXhd2YR9Y/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/gddEwyQUOgM/w-d-xo.html
I have the same problem with my Toyota and I thought, that only my car has this problem. Probobly is the same. Timmy, you are the best. Thanks for the movie. You made my life easier :)
You're very welcome. I hope what we instruct in this video fixes your steering issues. Happy Wrenching!
This is wonderful, just did to my 2002, worked perfectly. Thank you from Brazil!
@@vamonosnos You're welcome.
Awesome video Timmy. I still had the wandering issue after replacing inner outer tie rods, alignment, wheel balanced and bushing. Finally got it resolved. As always thanks Timmy and special shout out to Chris. Blessed to have him for a neighbor.
Thanks Rich. Great to hear our video helped you resolve your wandering steering issue. Chris really isn't a neighbor but he's a friend of ours.
Daily reminder that Tim the TOOLMAN IS THE MAN. Fixed my steering on the T100 today brotha
Good job getting er dun.
Thank you very much "Timmy The Toolman"... That's all I have to fix on my Toyota FJ 2008 (it has just a little play on it)... Thanks a lot!!!
You're very welcome.
@@TimmyTheToolman Question please. Is the Toyota FJ steering wheel disassembly the same as this video I watched?
@@عتمانالشريف-خ5س I don't know. I've never done this on a FJ Cruiser
@@TimmyTheToolman شكرا سيد Timmy
Hey Timmy, I just tested an '01 4Runner steering shaft play. I used medium/large vise grip near the bottom of shaft, above that lower bolt and just in front of brake pedal. With one hand on the vise grip and one on the steering wheel, it seemed easier to feel the definite play in there versus using just your hand on the shaft. Could really feel (and even hear) the slight clunk. This is the second time I'm doing this operation, with your video as the guide, thanks again.
Thanks for sharing your technique to feel the play in the steering shaft. Glad our video has helped you out.
Yet another great video. I had already replaced LBJs, shocks, tie rods and finally the steering rack. Everything was way better, but still had steering play and clunky response, especially over rough pavement. This fix took those symptoms away completely. If you've got steering play, be smarter than me and start with this fix :-)
Thanks. Glad this fix worked for you. Happy Wrenching!
This fix is actually ridiculous! I recommend anyone with a 3rd gen 4Runner to do this! and don't just weld it make sure you shim the tilt ball it's like a new truck. Thank you!!!
Glad it worked out well for you. Thanks for the comment.
Just wanted to thank you much! My steering felt horrible once going 35s so decided to knock this project out last night. My slip joint like yours didn’t have any play but decided I’d throw a 3/16” roll pin in as a preventative and did the oil bottle trick as-well. Steering feels great now no more dead spot. Only regret was not doing this any sooner!
SICMODS Cam, we are glad it worked out for you and you eventually got r dun’
I performed this same procedure on my 04 Tacoma. Except I chose to install steel roll pins since I don't have welder. Great job explaining how to remove the steering column.
Thanks Vic.
Tim, your videos are invaluable. Such a great step by step and I depth how to. Well done. Thank you !!
Thanks for the nice compliment and you're very welcome!
Thank you very much "Timmy The Toolman"... That's all I have to fix on my 3rd gen 2002 Toyota 4Runner (it has just a little play on it)... Thanks a lot!!!
You're very welcome.
Timmy... just when I thought you needed to make this vid.. you already had it up. Good sir I owe you a cold beer.
I like strong IPAs, doubles and triples. Good luck with the fix.
You got it man. I’m in Brentwood so hopefully some times soon!
@@ls_gill1582 We're going to have a party this summer so hopefully you can make it.
After near two decades of wandering steering, did this today. Now steers straighter than my 2022 Subaru Ascent.
Glad to hear it worked out for you.
Did this yesterday with the 3/16 tension pin.
Night and day difference!
Glad it worked out for you.
Did this same fix to my 05 tacoma, except I drilled a hole on either side of outer shaft(not all the way through) then rosset welded the holes, this curved that but after further inspection, down on the floor under that black plastic cover is a rubber like joint that is riveted in two spots on each side of this joint. (Kinda like a Chevy Rag joint)
One of the rivets, tore through this joint. A new intermediate shaft cost $264-$309! 😳
I couldn't find just this joint.
So I used a 3 inch diameter energy suspension body mount that I had from along time ago, used 4x grade eight nuts, bolts, lock washers and Red loctite, too create a new, stronger joint.
No more rattle or play, there's no issues with binding or anything else I can see.
Great video as always!
Good job Macgyvering a fix for your steering.
Same if you’ve got a notch in the turn radius?
I don’t have the slop.
Thanks
Dave
‘98 4R 5 M/T 4WD SR5
You’ve got so many videos, I am constantly finding videos that I was previously unaware that you’ve covered
Referenced this video today while doing this job, thanks again for the helpful content.
I added two tack welds on the slip joint per the vid, but I didn't shim my chingadera (tilt ball). Steering is nice and tight now, very happy with the results. One small thing: after getting it all back together per my match marks, I felt like I was maybe one spline off of having the wheel perfectly straight. I think this has to do with welding the sloppy slip joint in a different slop orientation than when I made the match marks. Someday when I'm bored I might yank it and rotate it one spline, but overall it's a huge improvement. Thanks again Timmy, keep em coming!
Good job Albert. Glad our video helped you out. We do have a video for pulling the steering wheel if you want to try to get it straighter. th-cam.com/video/-kByS-4puf0/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for this! I just rebuilt my front end and did this. It drives like a slot car now🙌🏽
You're very welcome Nick. Glad our video helped you out. Thanks for the comment.
At first I was like did he just say tighter than a gnats ass?!??
Then I was almost done howling about that and he killed me with “chingadera” 😂🤣🤣
Anywho, you have a fan for life. My first steering column exploratory surgery will happen tomorrow and y’all are my go to channel for everything car related now. I love the “live feed” video and verbal description.
Glad you enjoy some of the terminology I use. I sometimes wonder if people are listening carefully to what I'm saying, and I guess some are. Welcome to our channel and good luck with the steering shaft fix. Happy Wrenching!
Thanks for this informative video, did a double tack job on my steering column this morning, and it took a hour and half from start to finish. Wow what a difference it made. Now truck will be even more enjoyable to drive. Thanks again for vid.
that’s awesome to hear Rob. Thanks for coming back to leave a comment about your success!!
Wow! Thanks for this! I just came inside from replacing a sloppy yoke in my 2004 IS300. There is still about 1/4 inch of play in the steering that I think is coming from the tilt ball. Thanks for the detailed video about my specific problem! All the best!
You're very welcome Trevor. I hope the repair fixes your steering slop.
Just did this yesterday. Thanks for the video. I did have a lot of play at the joint on the shaft. A couple tack welds and I was good as new!
09ThunderOne nice dude. We’re glad this helped you and thanks for coming back to leave a comment.
I like the idea for tapping the outer shaft. I used a punch on the small plastic pins and the play was fixed. I drilled each pin out by hand with 1/16 drill bit and replaced with a 3D printed plastic pin.
Roger Dodger. Thanks for the comment.
Finally got around to doing this mod. Worked great. Thanks for the video.
Sicmods bro!
- Sean
Well I'll be horndorgled...watched this and headed out to the truck and THAT"S IT!!!! Thanks for showing this fix . I would never have thought of the worn ball being the culprit. A plastic shim is cheaper than replacing what probably didn't need replacing in the first place.
Glad our video helped you solve your steering issue Mike. Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman Took me 2hrs. but that did fix the play . Thanks again for a well done video. I woulda been tooo sceerd to even attempt the work without knowing what was what.
@@miketyler2513 Great to hear Mike. Glad it worked out well for you.
So I bought my Taco years ago when it had 54,000 miles on it. It was my second Taco; my first was a true first gen 95.5. After 300,000 miles I replaced it with the current one, which now has 288,000. It's been a basically drama-free ride, little required repairs, but since first owning it, it has had this column looseness issue, which was irritating in that my old Tacoma never suffered the issue. At any rate, I just lived with it. Today I finally tackled it, using this vid as a guide, and now I'm kicking myself for not doing it 230,000 miles ago. Not only is it super easy to tackle (did it in under an hour), but what a huge improvement, especially going over bumps that rattled the front end. Now my front end was in good shape, having changed the lower ball joints, struts and rack bushings many miles before, so no other issues were problematic. Feels like a new truck. SERIOUSLY!!!
I did not have access to a welder so I opted for the roll (spring pin) fix. Some notes on doing the roll pin fix that I couldn't find info on beforehand: the two plastic (actually there a four total) pins do not go all the way through the inner shaft, which is solid steel (not hollow). I used a smaller than 1/8 drill bit to drill out of the opposing plastic "pinning" pins and then alternated through each side until I met in the middle of the shaft (so as to drill as straight as possible in regards to the opposite side holes). Then I followed up with a 1/8" drill for the roll pin. The roll pin I used was a 1/8" dia. X 1 1/8" long pin (wasn't sure on the length but went long becaiuse I couldn't make a second trip to the faster store once I tore into it). Once tapped in, I ground off the protruding excess pin and reassembled the entire assembly. I had to go to Fastenal to get the pin; Home Depot did not have any. I only did one pin; saw no need to do two. As for safety of roll-pinning a shaft that was pinned with plastic so as to telescope somewhat in a crash, any crash that catastrophic will sheer the puny 1/8" pin long before the two beefy hex head side bolts anchoring the column give way; so it seems kinda silly to worry about the pin sheer strength causing a safety issue IMO.
With post covid vehicle pricing so crazy high, I guess my next project is a Yoto1 engine in a year or so; driving up the mountain passes twice a week is really showing how much power loss an even well-maintained 5vz fe suffers from at high milage. It's getting ugly!
Another note about "pinning" the column, the plastic pins are only approx. 1/8" deep into the assembly--THEY DO NOT GO ALL THE WAY THROUGH THE INNER SHAFT!!! When you drill into them the bit only goes about an 1/8" in before hitting solid metal. So, if I were to do it again, I wouldn't even bother drilling into the pins; I would just drill an 1/8 hole through the shafts between the plastic pins, and by doing so you don't need to be perfectly straight when you drill. I'm an aircraft mechanic with many years of structure experience so drilling straight is a perfected skill. Just drilling through the middle eliminates any issue with trying to hit the pin holes on the opposite side perfectly.
Also, it is my understanding, and this makes sense, a main reason those little plastic pins wear out is from people using the steering wheel to pull themselves in and out of the truck. The previous owner of my truck was very, very short, and most probably used the wheel while engine off/pwr steering off to get in and out of the truck, thus wearing out the plastic pins.
@redsledski I never liked the rolled pin idea. Seemed like a pain in the ass. You could have brought your steering shaft to a muffler shop, and they probably would have charged you $20 or less to tack it for you. It's literally a 5 minute job.
As for your engine getting tired, do a compression check of the cylinders to see where you're at. I have around 250k on my 2000 4runner, and I just completed a valve adjustment and valve cover gasket job. My valve lash was pretty good. All but 2 valves weren't in spec, but I ended up adjusting 12 valves that were either on the high or low end of the spec. It's not a fun job replacing valve shims, but it could improve compression numbers and, thus, more power.
@@TimmyTheToolman First, thanks for the reply! Love your vids; have used them for several projects. Especially appreciate the tool references too.
As for the roll pin vs weld... My truck is my only ride, so once I dove into the project I needed to do it without further travel (like to a muffler shop). I swear one day I'm going to buy a welder. One day... Regardless, it probably took me 5 min to drill and install the roll pin once the shaft was pulled, and it would have took less time had I just drilled a hole between the pin points. That said, I just gave the info above so people in my same situation know what size roll pin is needed and where can be drilled, which took a little bit (the roll pin/drill bit size) on Taco forums to figure out.
I've thought about checking valve/cam specs... Again, the fact it is my only vehicle makes it difficult to get shims once I dive into it. But what I have done, to marginal improvement: fuel filter, plugs, mass airflow sensor, 02 sensors, muffler and SeaFoam. I checked compression and have 170 psi across all 6 cylinders. I've heard 190-174 is considered a good, healthy engine. 150 psi is considered a dead engine. At 288,000 170 psi seems decent enough. Never requires oil between changes, no smoke, no hesitation issues,. emissions tests well, and plugs look perfect. Runs like a Singer Sewing Machine. A wet compression test reads 205 psi across all cylinders. That suggests the compression rings are somewhat worn, as I would expect. But still, driving up into the mountains, up 6% grades on I70 out of Denver, with the overdrive selected off, it can barely manage 65 mph, and that is without a headwind. Not sure how long it has been down on power due to the fact I only moved up here 2 years ago from the flatlands, and I'm a long time Taco owner 22Rs, 22REs, 2.7 liter Tacoma, and now the 3.4, which means I know they aren't built to be drag racers, but what I also do know is that other first gen trucks are all motoring past, and there are a lot up here. So there is definitely power loss somewhere affecting the 2300-3000 amp range. 4000 rpm the truck pulls well. Besides valve clearance my other thought: maybe the cats are no longer flowing well, or, and next timing belt change I'll look at this, the timing gear woodruff key might be slightly worn and retarding the timing a skosh.
Would I be correct in assuming the 5vz ECU advances ignition timing as the RPM move up past midrange, reading the timing sensor and rpms to determine the advancing? And would I be correct to think that if the timing gear key is slightly worn, resulting in timing retarding a degree or two, the ECU in response to less than ideal fuel burn readings from the upper O2 sensor, would cut fuel flow as to not be over-rich?
@@redsledski You're asking questions above my pay grade.
I just did this a few hours ago!
Great video alot of help!
I had alot of play at the shaft.
Couple of tac welds fixed it!
Thanks Toolman!!!
Good to hear this fix worked well for you David. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
God bless ya! My damn tacoma kept doing this & it was pissing me off everytime i hit a bump it had massive play & would wonder but took it all apart & tac welded it today & solved it thank you so much!!!
You're welcome. Glad this fixed the play in your steering.
Thx man youre saving my time and money 🤘 All works well now 😊
You're very welcome. It's great to know our video helped you out.
Hi TimmyTheToolam,
first of all thank you so much, working with your videos in the shop feels like a toddler being held by his papa :)
I own 3rd gen 4runner, bought it under pressure, and somehow let myself buy a car with steering problems.
the mechanic i went see told me that i will need to replace inner & outer tie rods (so i did), took the car after for alignment (which they did unsuccessfully 3 times), in the tires place he told me that it might be some freedom in the pinion.
i came across that video that suggest the drive shaft, i do suspect that this is the more reasonable issue because when i'm holding my shaft and move the wheel there is a clank and a feeling of freedom - but yet again in that same video you show that after removing the driveshaft its not as loose as you thought,
i also replaced steering rack bushings + sway bar bushings.
so,
i will not spend the money right now for trying replace my steering rack, nor welding the shaft and taking the danger that it will not collapse like it should in a case of an accident sounds right,
my question is:
while driving the road, except of annoying sloppiness there are no sounds or any other problems,
going of road, the sloppiness get worse, and there are clunks when going on washboard or bumpy road.
im not a rock crawler, not even a 4wheel driving really, i just want to go camp in beautiful views and be sure that im not going to get stuck on the rim of the grand canyon with no cellphone and no steering.
hope that i made my self clear,
appreciate your time and willingness to answer
thank you
Sloppiness in the steering can be caused by a lot of things, including the steering shaft that you don't want to tack weld. You already addressed the steering rack bushings so that's good. You might benefit from a steering rack guide upgrade. We have a video for that. You could have excessive play in your control arm bushings, lower and upper. You could have play in your inner tie rods. So, you'll have to do more inspection to see what you see to get rid of the play.
When it comes to the defeating the collapseability the steering shaft, people don't realize how significant of an impact that would take to be a factor. Yes, it's a safety feature, but if you hit something hard enough to force the steering shaft upward, that would be an impact that would require incredible force and intrusion and I would suspect any occupants would be dead or close to it. Lots of people have corrected their steering play with that tack weld fix so I wouldn't discount it unless you're willing to deal with excessive steering wheel play for the life of your rig. If you want to purchase a new steering shaft, that's an option, but a very expensive option.
Good job explaining the ramifications of the safety slip joint. I elected to replace my steering column since this is a safety feature. However, welding is far cheaper...
Yep, I added a link to Camelback Toyota for a replacement main steering shaft. It's definitely a savings by doing the tack welds but people have to realize the potential consequences.
Spending time walking through salvage yards has tought me the importance of the collapsible steering shaft. Just hope it's never needed. These are a good fix but I really like that you include the option of replacement.
Perfect timing I was just talking about this!!!
Glad it worked out for you to have this video to consult. Good luck with the job.
Just did this fix. What a great improvement! Thanks for the video. It helped a lot while I was working on my truck.
You're welcome. Glad you found the video helpful. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
i have quite ALOT of play in my 1998 with 185K, funny was my steering rack bushings were totally shot when i bought it around 182k and seeing this play in sterring rack, i wonder if it was abused in off road or something causing both these issues...
is it more likely that the shaft weld area causes way more play than the shim insert in the weird ball thing? excellent video! thanks again so much for your videos timmy!
185k is a fair amount of miles so time and mileage can do a number on those bushings along with any oils that get on the rubber and deteriorate it more quickly. Sure, a previous owner could have also wheeled it hard but if there's not obvious undercarriage scars, the person couldn't have wheeled it that hard unless they were jumping sand dunes. Glad you like our videos. You're very welcome and have fun wrenching on your rig.
I just noticed the flower room in the garage lol nice
Yeah, Chris likes growing Begonias. It's his favorite flower.
@@TimmyTheToolman me too
Great video. I did this on my 99 several months ago using the written instructions... and this video is spot on. Be careful with the 3 electrical clips under the wheel... looks like you guys broke the clip on the 3rd one during removal. ;-) Mine made a world of difference both in highway speed wandering and also chatter while off road. IMO a worthwhile fix and only takes 1-2 hours tops. I used the roll pin method instead of tack weld.
Thanks Mike. Good eye about the electrical clips. Chris did break that last one. I never use pliers to disconnect electrical connectors for the fear of cracking them. I was concentrating more on what I was saying for the video, so by the time I thought of mentioning something to Chris about using the needle nose pliers, the damage was already done. Oh well, live and learn. Even though Chris' joint felt really tight, he said there was a definite improvement with his steering after the job.
I like that domaFlachi Thingamajig ball
Good to hear you like my Technical Terminology.
My Toyota started out with just really loose steering wheel.Now I can literally pull on the wheel or hit a good bump and the wheel will free spin.I can wiggle the wheel and push it will move like a inch or so and steering comes back.Well I know I'll have to work on it and I'm sure your video will help.The air bag seems a little scary but so is loosing stearing
Good luck with fixing your sloppy steering. It sounds like you have more going on than play in that steering joint we tack welded.
A+ for a thorough instruction. I get play vibrations on certain roads at hwy speed. I'll have to look into this
Thanks Pat. Your vibrations could just be from the wheels needing balancing. If you haven't had the balancing checked in a while, it might be worthwhile to do.
@@TimmyTheToolman check steering rack bushings they are easy to inspect using a camera or a friend to see if you have slop in the rack. are pretty easy replace. I posted a video of mine. (timmy knows this but it's for future viewership)
@@patandbrandi Hey Pat, been there done that. Replacing steering rack bushings was one or our very first videos over 3 years ago.
Thanks for the video. I've got a steering wheel clunk most noticable off-roading, but reactive steering on the highway, so I believe the slip joint is tight. After pushing on the intermediate shaft's upper u-joint, the clunk is most definitely coming from inside the steering column with a lot of movement noticable at the lower column bushing. There's also slight side to side movement in the steering wheel when pressing in opposing directions at 3 and 9 o'clock. I can't imagine this isn't related to those upper ball halves with a worn out spring. However, I noticed that nothing was mentioned about that lower column bushing that apparently centers the main shaft. Do you remember replacing that and/or notice it worn down during inspection?
Tackling this job this weekend and looking forward to diagnosing the issue(s). Good tip on the plastic bottle shim since I can't seem to find those halves from any reputable source.
Good luck with the job. Hope this fix works for you.
@@TimmyTheToolman clunking is a goner! Replaced the main shaft bushing, but the culprit was the tilt ball smacking itself together. Oil bottle shim thickness worked well. Onto the panhard correction in a couple weeks. Always something to do!
@@JohnEboyee Good job fixing it.
Thanks! I think I have to replace my universal joint so this kind of helped me out.
You're welcome.
Great work as always! Thank you for the video
Thanks Mike.
My steering was making loud noise when I used to steer left or right.
Delar told me to replace steering shaft and estimated $1100 for my 07 camry.
Local shop said $450.
I just lubricated steering shaft and ujoints with WD 40.
Problem solved forever.
Nomore noise at all
Good job!
Excellent well-done video 👏
Thanks Jaime.
“The chingadera” part 😂
it's a technical term.
What I did was put a pair of Vice Grips on the shaft held it with one hand against the brake pedal and the other hand move the steering wheel. There was obvious play right away.
Yeah lots of people have reported play in these shafts. Lots of people have said this fix helped significantly.
Thank you very much for this great video
You're very welcome.
Thanks for the great video!.....Chris has a nice lil ninja grow room lol.
You're welcome. Yeah, Chris has a green thumb and likes to grow Tulips and Roses all year long.
Great video ! Thanks bro !
Thanks William and you're welcome. You've got to make it to our next party. We missed you at the last one.
@@TimmyTheToolman Ok will do ! Thanks Timmy !
Thankyou is ver y good explein good repair andar learning te best.
You're very welcome.
thank you very helpful video
You're very welcome.
Turns out someone already pinned mine and it was still loose so I tacked it and put the oil bottle shim in and wow did it make a very noticeable difference. Just hope I don't get a steering collum through my chest 🤞
Glad the fix worked for you. You would have to get in one hell of an accident for the steering wheel to take you out because you sill have an air bag between you and the steering column. I'm a firefighter and have been to hundreds of accidents. The accidents where's there's massive passenger compartment intrusion usually means nobody survives anyway. Drive smart and drive defensibly and you'll be fine.
solid video, good job
Thanks!
Hey guys, great video!! Thank you
I have a question though. I disconnected my steering wheel this weekend to change the dust cover. When I was hooking up everything, I had to turn the wheel 180 to get it line up. Well, I turns out I didn’t need to turn it because it’s now upside down🤦🏼♂️… and now I can’t remember which way I turned it so I can turn it back. Is there anyway to tell which way it needs to go? Thank you
There are many splines in the shaft that should allow you to install the steering wheel in 10° increments.
- Sean
Just slide a thin piece of teflon plastic between the two shafts without ever taking anything apart. I did that and it lasts about 16 months before wearing out and then I just do it again.
Removes the play & keeps the safety feature working.
Takes all of about 4 minutes.
Very interesting. Thanks for sharing.
Where do u get the teflon and how did u get up in there to do it?
do you know the part number for the tilt wheel ball or where to get one? great vid btw
took my shaft apart and the tilt ball was completely worn and broken
@@jordanlovett2138 Don't know that part number. A Toyota dealer is probably your best bet.
@@TimmyTheToolmanwhat a fast reply, anyways i’ll try and see what they say preciate it
@@jordanlovett2138 No problem.
Awesome work!!
We're glad you think so Glenn.
What a great video
Thanks Antonio. Glad you think so.
@@TimmyTheToolman your welcome your videos are awesome for trying to repair new things I'm a engine mechanic but always nice to learn new repairs on my 2000 4runner
@@AntonioClaudioMichael That's good to know. I might need your engine skills one day.
Would a big hammer and a punch help by adding a few dimples/dents to the outer sleeve of the shaft, if some one didn't want to go the other methods.
Most likely yes but it will likely wear down over time and lead to the same issue.
@@RocanMotor I concur.
But it would be a option for people who would want to retain the safety feature of the steering shaft. I am going to on a limb with my past experience with a mk2 golf and plastic in pivoting/rotating areas most people would have issues with the ball in the steering column.
I also saw that someone fill the hole with window urethane glue and stick the two piece back and it holds well too
Will play in the steering shaft cause any damage to steering components if left alone, or is it merely just annoying?
It should affect any other steering components. Yes, it mainly just be a minor inconvenience feeling the play in the wheel and maybe some steering wheel shaking at freeway speeds.
- Sean
Don't know if my comment wasn't added, I tried before... I did this a couple weeks ago and had a LOT of difficulty trying to get the steering assembly bolted back in. Thought I had the holes lined up but didn't apparently, and tightening ended up breaking part of the metal...
Had order new piece from junkyard. Not sure if anyone else.had problems with that
We've only done this job once and we obviously didn't have the problem you had. It's not clear to me what you actually broke.
@Timmy The Toolman I love this and your other videos btw, helped me fix lot of stuff on my truck. It's the actual metal piece on the steering column that gets bolted onto the dash (via the 2 hex/Allen bolts 180 degrees of each other)
I'm gonna try to put it in again this weekend. I wrestled with it forever and just couldn't seem to get the holes lined up completely
I was able to get it done fyi. If anyone runs into the same problem let me know I can help. Basically have to take off the nut underneath the air bag to replace the metal piece that I broke - the whole metal piece slides out...(Too bad I can't upload a pic to show what I'm talking about)
You guys rock
Thanks Dan!
thanks guys
You're welcome Johnathan.
This is a hell of a job! Toyota should be responsible for this crap. My 2010 taco is playing left n right during high speeds do u suppose mine is using the same shaft assembly idea?
There's a good chance the steering shaft is being made the same to collapse during a collision.
I hope this is my issue, hoping to fix my LC200. Thank you.
Good luck with the job. Hope it is the fix you're looking for.
One of the best videos I've seen on this. Thank you!
Thanks for the compliment. We appreciate it! You're welcome.
Great Video!
Don Sotto great comment!
Great video. Thanks for posting this. Who works on their car with flip flops? Seriously? I don’t get it.
Skilled TH-cam certified technicians… that’s who! 😆
- Sean
@@TimmyTheToolman lol
I feel this Steering wheel "play" as you described but it also does it at slow speeds on a bumpy road. It's a very slight jiggle I feel but not seen. What gets me most is feeling this "play" when driving onto a "lipped" Driveway at an angle. Is this also a symptom of a collapsed shaft?
Hey Andy, I get that same play feeling in my steering when going out my driveway. I do believe the play we are feeling is in the steering shaft.
@@TimmyTheToolman ahh ok. It's so annoying. I'm gonna have mine checked here soon. Thx Timmy The Toolman!
Use disposable cutting board as a source of teflon.
Wayne S. Those might be too thick. But worth trying!
@@TimmyTheToolman Hey Tim great video as always. I used a slightly thicker plastic shim instead of the motor oil container and had a hell of a time putting back together. The steering is actually too tight with that thick plastic and I will redo it in the am. Actually feels like I have little to no power steering. Had a friend tack weld the shaft and WOW what a difference, no more play.
Thanks again.
@@josephagosta7554 Yeah, as soon as you get the right thickness plastic between the tilt ball, you should be dialed. Good job doing the work yourself. Happy Wreching!
@@TimmyTheToolman just replaced the plastic shim with the recommended oil container plastic shim. Looks like my original shim was twice the thickness? I'm surprised I was able to compress the ball thing-a-ma-gig? Anyway, now my steering is perfect! Very responsive! Thanks again!
@@josephagosta7554 Glad you got it fixed Joe. Good job!
Hey man you inspired me so i just picked up an is300 wheel with clock spring for my 2002. I noticed the connector on my wheel is 5 pin while the clock spring is 6 pin, will this be an issue with the swap being that rhe 4runner connector under the wheel is 4 pin? Also for me i dont care about the IS wheel controls, can i just connect them without the additional 2 wires?
Great Video!!!! Thanks
We're glad you think so Glenn. You're very welcome!
So i got a clunk and some play in my steering wheel its definitely in the wheel i can feel it i just got done doing all the bushings in the front so im hoping this will solve it.
Yeah, hopefully it will. Good luck!
It seems like you could use a stronger spring Instead of the plastic shim for the steering ball. Having only reviewed your video it seems like this would be an effective alternative while keeping the original design principle the same. What do you think?
Well, that could work but where would you source the spring? Putting in a shim is simple and easy for people to do. But, if you can source a stronger spring and it works, definitely share the link to the spring so others can benefit from it.
Can we get a part number and exact spelling on the dumaflajee chingadera? I feel like that is the type of nomenclature that best describes the jibronees around my way. Great vid
Glad you like the video. We'll work on those chingadera part numbers.
did you ever find a part number?
@JerryMraz.
Thanks helpful
You're welcome. Glad you found it helpful.
why not just replace the shaft? is there a video for that?
Because Cliff the shaft is expensive to replace. Boocoo bucks. This video would suffice as a video for replacing the whole shaft because we pull out the shaft in this video.
Steering wheel shakes and wobbles when I go over bumps and things like that. Could it be the steering column? I checked tie rod ends and all and still didn't fix it. I have a 02 camry
Hey Kevin, it definitely could be the culprit but it could be other things as well like worn out steering rack bushings, a worn out steering rack guide, worn out tie rods, worn out balljoints, or worn out control arm bushings. You'll need to do some investigation to narrow down the possibilities.
Great video!!!
Thanks Carlos. We're glad you like it.
I took my 1999 4Runner to a local dealer and they could not figure out why steering wheel had play... Til I ran into your video... Thank you..
@@carlosaleman1 You just learned a valuable lesson that I learned many years ago myself. Just because they are a Toyota dealer with trained mechanics doesn't mean they know a lot about your particular rig. If you do your homework, quite often, you will know more than them. So, it's for this reason why I prefer doing my own work. Why pay high labor rates to let someone work on your rig that's less knowledgeable than you? If you do your own work, you get to make sure it was done right and you save a ton of money in the process. It's a win-win. Happy Wrenching Carlos!
You the man
Thanks for noticing.
Greetings, about that plastic ball, what did you call it other than tilt ball??? Cheers
Don't remember. We shot this video quite some time ago.
Hey Timmy keep these good informative vids up. They really help. I actually have a question for you. But it would be too confusing. I replaced 4 bushings on my 3rd gen 4runner's transmission shifter( automatic ) it was way too wobbly, but still worked the way it's supposed to. But i think i ruined my 4x4 shifter. Now it wont engage into 4lo. It grinds, when trying to put back to 4hi it will grind too, so ibhave to turn the runner off then put back into 4hi and turn off 4x4 to get it back to 2hi. I did have to remove the 8 bolts that hold the transmission shifter and 4x4 shifter to get to the bottom 2 bushings and the transmission linkage too. Any idea's what might've happen. I hope i dont have to drop the transfer case to see if the fork of guide is off.
We will continue to make videos for sure and it's good to hear you have found them helpful. In regards to your shifter problem, when you're trying to shift into 4Lo, do you have the automatic transmission in neutral before you are trying to shift it in? Going into 4Lo, the transfer case will grind a bit. But, the faster you throw the shifter, the smoother it will be. If you move the shifter really slow into 4Lo, you will feel the gears chattering as they try to find alignment. I learned if I just do a sort of quick fluid movement, it barely grinds at all. Now, if you're saying the transfer case won't physically shift into 4Lo while the engine is running, that's a different thing. If that's the case, maybe you didn't get your transfer case shifter in correctly.
The end of the transfer case shift has what looks to be a hard plastic end that slides into the shifting rod. There's really only one way to get it in correctly but maybe you were able to get it incorrectly somehow. I would pull off the shifter assemblies again and double check you got the transfer case shifter in correctly. While you're doing that, I'd replace your transfer case shifter seat. You can remove the top plate that the shifter sits in and remove the old seat. I would bet yours is disintegrating because they were on my 98 and Sean's 02. You can just pick out the old shifter seat with a small screwdriver. Marlin Crawler sells an aftermarket shifter seat that works well. Then you can buy the gasket for that top plate from Toyota. Here's a link to purchase the shifter seat: www.marlincrawler.com/transfer-case/parts-upgrade/shifter-parts/heavy-duty-shifter-seat-forward-shift The seat has cut-outs in it to allow you to slide the bushing in and then rotate it into position. I wish I would have made a video for this but I didn't. However, it's pretty self-explanatory. Let me know what you figure out and if you have more questions, just ask.
Another great video! Do you happen to have any videos on changing out the rear main seal? Keep up the great content!
Glad you like the video. We actually had the transmission out of Sean's rig but decided not to replace the rear main seal. But, the video series of pulling Sean's transmission pretty much gets you in there. All you'd need to do is remove the flex plate, pull the seal and replace it. Here's link to the 3 videos:
Video #1 th-cam.com/video/oZDSjlxl2Q4/w-d-xo.html
Video #2 th-cam.com/video/O4GA3UhPC5Y/w-d-xo.html
Video #3 th-cam.com/video/T4YY3IfnzaQ/w-d-xo.html
Yet another amazing video from T the T ! Do you think my 2000 tacoma steering is the same design (column) ? At first glance it looks the same steering assembly even from below with connecting rod, etc. I definitely have play/looseness that I have eliminated all other options and failed to find, so I believe it would be worth checking it out on mine. Idea 💡🤔- perhaps applying some Steel Stick (steel/epoxy, such as JB weld) at that joint (if it’s loose) could be a possible option. My theory would be that although not as strong as an actual tack weld , perhaps it would hold “enough” to fix the slop, however, in the event of an impact the “glue” would sheer and allow the collapse ? Also, easier to diy rather than take it to a welder. Thoughts ? Anyone, feel free to reply , Thanks !
**Also, is there a bearing that shaft slides into at the middle ? perhaps that also contributes to slop ?
E 🌵
The JB Weld might work but I don't know of anyone that has tried it. If you try it, let us know if it works.
There is a u-joint in the steering shaft that could go bad and develop play. We have not done a video on servicing that joint though.
follow up on this : I was able to remove the steering wheel assembly precisely as your video instructed with success ! TIP : after all the connections and nuts were free, the only way to pull the wheel away was to give it a strong sharp shove/knock in-> toward the dash followed by a sharp pull-out. Just pulling alone was near impossible until I decided to give it a shove first, then it broke loose out easily. Also, I recommend greasing all the areas where it sits in the bushings and seat when re-installing , no squeak and smooth steering 👍🏻 . Finally : in my case the tilt ball was super tight and in good shape, just added more grease, but ***INDEED it was the two shafts with the sheer pins that was causing the excessive play and steering knocking when going over bumps. Spot weld would definitely work, and I believe drilling out the plastic pins (two little yellow ones) tapping and adding set screws would also work. I decided to mix up some steel stick (about a golf ball size amount) and used my fingers to “jam” or smear the putty best I could inside where the union has a small gap. Also, I created a “cast” form around that union all around it, just male sure you don’t make it too fat in diameter so it sits inside the steering mounts without interfering. Let it cure 24hours before re-installing the wheel back into the truck. Bingo ! problem solved ! no slop, no knock, super solid steering and smooth 🙌🏻 🎉. Safety : yes, it is at your own risk, and my hope , god forbid that I ever get into an accident that is so severe that column has to collapse 🤞🏻, I do believe that epoxy would break first, and the amount that column would travel is only about 4 inches , so I think if that ever happens , perhaps we would have bigger concerns than that 4” like the engine being in the front seat ! 😜 Thanks for the video ! all worked as you described , and yes, definitely need vice grips to remove those spring ! ✌🏻
@@Evepc_Tucson Thanks for the update on how you did it.
I have an 03 tacoma double cab, could this looseness of the shaft cause my wheels to turn right on the highway at speed when I hit the brakes? I changed my left caliper thinking it was siezed, tie rods are tight, rack is tight, im almost left with upper and lower control arm bushings, my ball joints are very tight. Could control arm bushings mimick this type of play?
Jimmy Mann Hey Jimmy, play in the steering shaft would not cause your rig to pull one way or the other when braking. Definitely sounds like a brake issue to me. Have you checked your rear brakes? Uneven braking in the rear could cause your brakes to pull too. It’s possible you have contaminated rear brake shoes from a rear axle seal failure. But, it is also possible that you’re control arm bushings are really wasted on one side allowing the the arm to shift under a load like braking.
@@TimmyTheToolman Got some Whiteline Lower Control Arm Bushings and that was the fix, I dont have to squeeze my cheeks anymore braking on the highway, Thanks for all your videos and time, thanks so much man, you are truly becoming one heck of a source for these generations of trucks and people.
@@jimmymann4624 Hey Jimmy, glad you figured out the problem and got it fixed. You're very welcome. Sean and I like helping people out and it's satisfying when we hear from people like yourself that our videos are making a difference. Happy Wrenching Jimmy!
So I've been having this happen to me about half a year now. I've actually stopped driving it because of how bad it is. Would you recommend just being a new sterring shadt instead of drilling the holes into it? I'm not sure if just buying a new one will fix the problem.
I'd do the tack weld like we show in the video. If you don't have a welder, bring the shaff to a muffler shop and they could do it for you for a few bucks. Buying a new shaft would be very expensive.
Tighter then a nats ass thats my fave new line to use man thanks! Hahaha
Hey, glad you approve of my lingo. Happy Wrenching!
Could you get some sort of bushing and cram it into the slip joint?
mr1337357 I can’t picture stuffing something in that area. It’s way to small. A tack weld is the way to go
instead of welding why not squeeze using a large vice?
Don't know. If you try it, let us know how it worked.
How do you know the play is in this steering shaft and not the intermediate shaft to the steering rack?
Well, to be honest, it's a bit of trial and error unless the play is massive and easy to spot.
@5:02 you seem to show some play in the shaft, but later @13:44 there's no play, so did you guys ever determine where that play was originating? Thanks for the whole video, I'm going to do this to my '04 Tacoma this week hopefully.
That's a good question and no we didn't determine for sure where that play was coming from. All we know is after doing the tack weld and tilt wheel ball fix, his steering felt tighter.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks for reply. I'll report back after I dig into mine and try to fix it. My alignment guy has already said he's sure it's not anything past the floorboard in his department, and thinks it's somewhere between the steering wheel and the bottom of the shaft.
Ok, I did this operation this afternoon, and there was definite (with clicking sound) movement between the shaft sections. Being a hexagonal shaft, I decided to put 3 small welds around it, to be symmetrical. I did not do the plastic shim, because I wanted to feel the difference of just welding the shaft first. I don't think there's any immediate need to insert the shim, but I could do that pretty quickly now if needed. I just now made a donation into your tip jar, thank you!
@@terebrate Sounds like the tack weld fix definitely made a difference and that's great. Thanks for the tip and taking the time to comment. We really appreciate it. Happy Wrenching!