Impreza EJ Timing Belt Part 2: Removal and Inspection
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ธ.ค. 2020
- Removing all the timing belt parts and inspecting what needs to be replaced on the EJ swapped 2.5RS GC8.
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Breaking more parts than I am fixing?
Well i have watched every one of the Subaru videos man i love 2.5 rs conversion videos. I am sure in the future i will be using these as reference Keep up the good work .
This is awesome to hear! The exact reason I make these videos is to help someone someday such as yourself! If you have questions lmk I am getting to know every inch of this car. 🤣
Hey man I jsut finished the series, sub'd, all that jazz -- this is good content. I dig the full front end replacement, never any sense NOT replacing that stuff when its that exposed. Looking forward to seeing this progressing!
@Kevin thank you for the support, I need all the motivation I can get!!! Stay tuned, more updates soon.
Hey mate nice videos. I'm looking at doing my cambelt on my gc8 and I will be using your videos as my guideline. keep up the good work!
Thank you! Watch some videos and use a service manual for your engine if you can. It’s not a crazy job, take your time! You can do it.
Nice
Thanks!!
I'm wondering if the leaks are from the power steering pump. The oil from the pump leaks behind the cover.
The bearing for the power steering pump is a 6203 NTN.
I think that old water pump was the factory pump just the cast impeller as you said.
I do like the fact you kept all factory parts and I hope your dealer gave you at least wholesale pricing.
Looks good and I like how it is progressing. Slow is not a bad thing when you are trying to be thorough.
@Troy Fankell Slow and steady 😂 I think the PS pump was a major culprit, it was a mess. If the rebuild does not work I’ll replace the whole pump. I would like to reroute the return line as the hard line is in my way for the intake I purchased. Other than the chase bays kit I don’t know how to reroute the lines as one side is a bard fitting at the reservoir 🤷♂️
The only oil pump I've seen with their own engraving is the Cosworth. Your oil pump scoring is normal, what you wanna look at is the rotor for pitting. If there was pitting then bearing material went through it once. The 12mm oil pump will not have as much oil pressure past 4500rpms. The engine it came on in Japan is DOHC w/ DUAL AVCS, which warrants the extra oil needed. Our USDM STI is DOHC, DUAL AVCS but doesn't rev as high, which runs a 11mm. The 10mm oil pump found on 02-14 WRX, 04-07STI, is plenty for your engine. You don't have AVCS, oil squirters. The 98 2.5rs DOHC EJ25D runs a 10mm oil pump.
Ex: we run a modified 10mm oil pump and rev to 9000rpms.
OEM water pump/ tensioner is the way to go. We've had bad luck and bad quality with Gates.
Great info! I trust the oem timing parts the most. My only reasoning for getting a 12 mm is the builder of the engine from previous ownership may have built the engine “lose” and I want to run the same pump as the builder requested. I reached out to the previous owner and he could not remember why they went 12 mm but he would only run it it he was told to years ago.
Yes, I did find some pitting on the gear which is concerning, however, the original bottom end was an ej257 that spun a bearing and was rebuilt. Did they reuse the old pump? Use a old pump sitting around? Maybe the material is from the current bearings? Guess I’ll have to just cross my fingers? If I spun a bearing now I would have changed most of the oil components; pump, pick up, pan, cooler, cooler pipe, dip stick tube. But now, I don’t know if or where the bearing material came from. I HOPE it was just an old pump reused 🙏😳
@@RoadPatina there are a few different ways the oil pump can be bad from an engine that suffered a bearing failure. Depending on how the engine died will determine the fate of the oil pump.
Pitting is the first to happen and how much material came through will determine how bad it is. If you hear it starting to tap and turn it off quickly, it will reduce the shavings on the rotor. If you keep the engine running and the knocking is loud, most if not all of the bearing material will be gone and larger chunks go through the rotor. If a piston died and small pieces make it past the mesh of the oil pick up, then the pump eats them. If you turned off the car quickly the pump can be reused after thoroughly taken apart, cleaned, inspected. Engines that lock up from a bearing failure may have excessive heat transfer from bearing to crank to main bores on the block. This heat gets transferred to the rotor of the oil pump and it will warp the pump. If it doesn't rotate well after cleaning and assembly, it is likely warped.
I ran a 12mm pump on my EJ22T build. I retained the oil squirters, ran AVCS heads, loose rod bearings. If i didn't run the oil squirters, i would run the 10mm.
If advise you to run an external oil cooler, minimum 7" x 14" core. It'll keep oil temps from rising when you run the car hard.
This dude has a hard on for Japanese made parts
Quality!