Thank you sheriff. Very nice video and we all especially us Old-Timers that worked on the old stuff and now that we're old we don't know the ins and out of all this new stuff. Anyway, I'd like to say thank you
Nice video, helped a ton. Just replaced mine on a 4WD 2012 suburban after watching this vid and several others. Yours was the most helpful. Note that there is NO access to the block bolts from underneath on a 4WD. I removed the wheel well apron and was able to get to them pretty easily, though. Whole process took about 4 hours. Could've done without the F-bomb (teaching my 10 Y/O how to shade tree mechanic). I guess I should've screened it first.
I did DRIVERS SIDE ENGINE MOUNTS my Chevrolet Suburban LT1500 2WD REAR Today. 3.5 hours total. One modification: Jack under the oil pan with car in normal stance was not doable because the handle of Jack was not pumping enough. So I had to raised car up a bit higher on Jack stands which gave me more room to pump the Jack handle.
Great video - best one I found with the detail needed. It was easy as long as you have the right tools (ratchet with flex head and extensions). Saved me $800 with the exception of some new tools, which is always good. I did leave the heat shield on though, just to be safe.
I've always been told to never use the oil pan to jack the motor up because it's cast aluminm but you said you've done it 100 times with no issues so I'm going to trust you on this.BTW this is the 2nd mount I've had to replace(powerful little engines and lead foot) and for the heat shield I would like to keep it off but kind of reluctant to do so.FYI Adam Brier the fuel lines are nowhere near the mount you doo doo head.Thanks for the video man.
Did you do this because the truck had a "shiver" at idle or a idle flutter in drive when stopped at light? That is what I am experiencing in 2003 GMC Yukon. It is not terrible but bothersome and some threads have recommended replacing motor mounts. Thanks!
@@Donnythelatemodeltech Beg to differ, the transfer case on my 2012 'burb is dead center under the motor mount. Have to pull the left W/W apron and then it is not terrible. Took me about 4 hours, but you have better tools. Without a doubt the best video on this subject I have found. Thanks a TON!
how long have these auto parts store parts lasted. ive heard nothing but bad,say 6-9 mo. I personally replaced cts v6 motor mounts with same stuff and they went back out
Thanks for such a detailed video. I have 2017 v6 that I have to fix and your video is very helpful. Did you have any issues with tjat motor mount because of deleting the heat shield? Thanks again. 👍👍
Great soundtrack! That was the oil pan you jacked it up under, just with a couple blocks of wood? I've been wondering if that was safe or not, I'm glad you showed it though, no video on here shows where they jack the motor at lol, been looking and looking. Someone else suggested using the part of the block underneath the harmonic balancer, also using a block of wood of course...
Great job, one question did you access the bottom of the mount through the wheel well or just right from the bottom. I'm getting ready to change one out on my wife's GMC Yukon Denali
On the drivers side , the four bolts i get from underneath the truck. On the passenger side mount, the lower four bolts I get from the the wheel well, "removing the liner". If your one that doesn't like to work off your back, then working in the wheel well will be a better idea, "removing the liner usually results in getting dirty, lol, the floor and your arms. So I never remove it on the drivers side, usually this mount is the only one that's bad. But every now and then Ill get one where both are bad. The passenger side is never worn out by its self, and that side is a bit more of a pain in the butt. Thanks for watching, and let me know if you need anything.
So is your motor mount still good? Cause I’m balls deep in changing mine and it would be a hell of a lot easier without the heat shield. I’m thinking about trashing my heat shield too
Hell yeah. Putting my top bolts back in now. After ditching the heat shields everything was a breeze. Good video and even better with the customer support! I appreciate it!
@@Donnythelatemodeltech It didn't look like there was a way to get to it from below without removing the transfer case, but I did remove and replace it by taking the wheel well plastic out. It was a tight fit! Thanks!
@@Donnythelatemodeltech I replaced both motor mounts in about 1 hour on my 2005 Silverado 6.0L with a 15mm swivel socket and 12" extension to remove bolts at the engine. Jacked engine up at the converters and had to remove starter to do passenger side motor mount I do have a 9000 pound rotary 2 post lift that makes thing much easier.
Hell yeah glad to see this video I'm replacing both of mine and good to see a video with someone doin it exactly how I'm gonna have to do it! Lol very helpful bro
It's a heat shield. Fail to re-install it and the motor mount will have a very limited lifetime, as the heat from the exhaust will destroy the rubber of the mount.
Nice video. Only suggestion would be to loosen the transmission mount. I found out that you can rip the transmission mount jacking it up. If it's not ripped already. Because that bad motor mount likely already ruined the transmission mount
@@Donnythelatemodeltech Your response proves it, you can't hear until you get that heat shield back on.. On rare occasions, a hearing aid can solve the problem as well.
Bad move tossing the heat shield, I already did that about 3years ago and towing absolutely melted that mount with manifold heat. Don’t toss the heat shield very important
Not putting heat on just shows everyone how careless you are I wouldn’t want you working on my vehicle if you’re going to cut corners for everyone to see God knows what you do on the cameras not on.
Nice video and glad someone shows the real struggle of using a ratchet in a not so convenient space with stuff blocking your view.
Thanks for the tips. Only took me 40 mins and there is a metal lip on the block you can jack from if anyone is afraid to jack the pan
I call BS on 40 minutes. Unless your in a shop with a lift and tons of tools.
@@MegaHowtoManthen you shouldn’t be working on your own vehicle bud
Thank you sheriff. Very nice video and we all especially us Old-Timers that worked on the old stuff and now that we're old we don't know the ins and out of all this new stuff. Anyway, I'd like to say thank you
It's like TH-cam knew what I had planned for this long weekend. Thanks!
Nice video, helped a ton. Just replaced mine on a 4WD 2012 suburban after watching this vid and several others. Yours was the most helpful. Note that there is NO access to the block bolts from underneath on a 4WD. I removed the wheel well apron and was able to get to them pretty easily, though. Whole process took about 4 hours. Could've done without the F-bomb (teaching my 10 Y/O how to shade tree mechanic). I guess I should've screened it first.
Hes going to hear plenty of cussing at school.
Right, all these vids that make it look simple are 2wd. 4wd is a bit harder!
from where did you jack up the engine?
Wahhhh… hope he doesn’t cry like his dad. Cussing comes with wrenching.
This is the best video for replacing this particular mount. In the middle of it right now
Thank You!
I do suggest you use the heat shield or heat wrap it , or the you tube trolls will find you. Lol.
I cut around where it fits between the bracket and the mount and shoved it on after getting it bolted together.
It's a start and finish job, like brakes. Diagnosing intermittent electrical issues are not such jobs.
I did DRIVERS SIDE ENGINE MOUNTS my Chevrolet Suburban LT1500 2WD REAR Today. 3.5 hours total. One modification: Jack under the oil pan with car in normal stance was not doable because the handle of Jack was not pumping enough. So I had to raised car up a bit higher on Jack stands which gave me more room to pump the Jack handle.
Great video - best one I found with the detail needed. It was easy as long as you have the right tools (ratchet with flex head and extensions). Saved me $800 with the exception of some new tools, which is always good. I did leave the heat shield on though, just to be safe.
Thanks for the great comment. I get a lot of grief about that heat shield. Lol. It was just too hot that day in the garage , I just wanted to be done.
Earned that upvote the moment he said, "I'm not putting that back on. fuck that thing". lol
See em back soon.😁
Passenger side FYI: separate the mount and bracket after unbolting from block and frame. It'll come out a lot easier that way.
But then how did you put the new one in?
@@jayclist5959 same way its a pain in the ass, dont care what some of these guys say
@@torkrench no kidding, lol I was doing mine when I typed the comment. They went out on my wife’s Tahoe too. Just paid a shop to do it.
4x2 looks easy compared to 4x4.
Yeah 4x4 suck.
Did you unbolt the trans mount to be able to jack it up enough?
Nope. You can get it without.
Video was helpful. Ima reinstall the heat shield tho. Thanks bro!
7:22 skips the real struggle. Starting the first bolt one handed. XD
I've always been told to never use the oil pan to jack the motor up because it's cast aluminm but you said you've done it 100 times with no issues so I'm going to trust you on this.BTW this is the 2nd mount I've had to replace(powerful little engines and lead foot) and for the heat shield I would like to keep it off but kind of reluctant to do so.FYI Adam Brier the fuel lines are nowhere near the mount you doo doo head.Thanks for the video man.
Just make sure you use a block of wood under the pan. Best comment yet!
Use the Atomic mounts.
Just saved me hours of confusion thanks bro!!!
Did you do this because the truck had a "shiver" at idle or a idle flutter in drive when stopped at light? That is what I am experiencing in 2003 GMC Yukon. It is not terrible but bothersome and some threads have recommended replacing motor mounts. Thanks!
The bad mount is a clunk sound and feel when accelerating from a stop
Justin Mandell my truck does that same “shiver” did you ever find out what it was?
Nothing beats the feeling of fixing my own shit!! I'm an alpha male 💪 I will do mine this weekend
You a Beta Male . Us Alpha's will do it this evening.
Very helpful video. Is the process different for 2wd vs 4wd. I have read that 4wd (which I have) is more difficult but don't know why. Thanks
It's not bad. Going to have an axle in your face.
@@Donnythelatemodeltech Beg to differ, the transfer case on my 2012 'burb is dead center under the motor mount. Have to pull the left W/W apron and then it is not terrible. Took me about 4 hours, but you have better tools. Without a doubt the best video on this subject I have found. Thanks a TON!
how long have these auto parts store parts lasted. ive heard nothing but bad,say 6-9 mo. I personally replaced cts v6 motor mounts with same stuff and they went back out
Thanks for such a detailed video. I have 2017 v6 that I have to fix and your video is very helpful. Did you have any issues with tjat motor mount because of deleting the heat shield? Thanks again. 👍👍
What impact wrench is that? And would you recommend it?
Thanks brother. You saved me $250!!
just wondering if I should replace both moto mount or just the one?
What are the symptoms of bad engine mounts?
love the trow away the heat shild thats what i will do thanks for the expertise
Badass video i like the angels showing everything and streight to the point.
did u have to disconnect the other side mount just to do the driver or can i do one at a time ?
Do one at a time.
THanks Bro!!!!!! For video about to attempt on 2017 GMC Sierra
Great soundtrack! That was the oil pan you jacked it up under, just with a couple blocks of wood? I've been wondering if that was safe or not, I'm glad you showed it though, no video on here shows where they jack the motor at lol, been looking and looking. Someone else suggested using the part of the block underneath the harmonic balancer, also using a block of wood of course...
Yeah, block of wood under the pan. Done it a 100 times, without any problems. Thanks for the support!
Very helpful , thanks bro , was worried it would be more difficult and that would mean pricey, be safe thanks again
Good video to help those with these station wagons. 4x4/AWD is not that easy.
can jacking up on the oil pan cause an oil leak around the pan?
What years are those models, will this work with a 2011 Chevrolet Suburban?
Sure will
The Late Model Tech how about a 99?
Is it okay to just use a floor jack and not an engine hoist?
Great job, one question did you access the bottom of the mount through the wheel well or just right from the bottom. I'm getting ready to change one out on my wife's GMC Yukon Denali
On the drivers side , the four bolts i get from underneath the truck. On the passenger side mount, the lower four bolts I get from the the wheel well, "removing the liner". If your one that doesn't like to work off your back, then working in the wheel well will be a better idea, "removing the liner usually results in getting dirty, lol, the floor and your arms. So I never remove it on the drivers side, usually this mount is the only one that's bad. But every now and then Ill get one where both are bad. The passenger side is never worn out by its self, and that side is a bit more of a pain in the butt. Thanks for watching, and let me know if you need anything.
He'll have to replace that mount alot sooner than he thought since he didn't reinstall the heat shield😄
Foil tape should work just fine👍
@@jlrockafella 🤦♂️lol
Will this work for 2014 gmc sierra4.3
Thanks for the help doing 1 Monday 👍
So is your motor mount still good? Cause I’m balls deep in changing mine and it would be a hell of a lot easier without the heat shield. I’m thinking about trashing my heat shield too
Yep, still good 👍
Hell yeah. Putting my top bolts back in now. After ditching the heat shields everything was a breeze. Good video and even better with the customer support! I appreciate it!
Will you take a minute of your time to leave a comment on a new video for me, it would be much appreciated.
th-cam.com/video/UUxfXUDb_Fc/w-d-xo.html
That "thing" you didn't put on was the heat sheild, these go because the exhaust cooks them. Many do think they do nothing.
Is a faulty motor mount the reason why my A/C tensioner has a big gouge next to the steering rack bolt? Resting distance is about a half inch.
Most likely, I have the same chunk missing from tensioner, and known bad mount
@@Nathan-uo9yf I've since then replaced the mounts then traded up 10 years.
It looks like you have to remove the transfer case if this is a 4 wheel drive. Please confirm. Thanks!
On the floor It will be easier to just remove it. On a service lift you can just lower it. It just depends on how rusty and nasty things are.
@@Donnythelatemodeltech It didn't look like there was a way to get to it from below without removing the transfer case, but I did remove and replace it by taking the wheel well plastic out. It was a tight fit! Thanks!
How come you did not use a long extension and impact to remove motor mount to block bolts?
Let me know how that goes, .
@@Donnythelatemodeltech I replaced both motor mounts in about 1 hour on my 2005 Silverado 6.0L with a 15mm swivel socket and 12" extension to remove bolts at the engine. Jacked engine up at the converters and had to remove starter to do passenger side motor mount I do have a 9000 pound rotary 2 post lift that makes thing much easier.
Thanks I'll have to figure it out on my 4x4 but this gives me a good idea, I got a 2 ton cherry picker I might use that
Pull the driverside from the top.
Buen trabajo voy a reglar mi silverado también
Curious...how many miles on the vehicle? What determines when replacement is necessary?
It's a speculative. Since they are made of hardened plastic it varies. Whenever you feel or the motor rock when accelerating it's time to replace.
How long does it take to do it
Hell yeah glad to see this video I'm replacing both of mine and good to see a video with someone doin it exactly how I'm gonna have to do it! Lol very helpful bro
What were your symptoms?
La mejor demotracion que evisto
Buena idea lo boiatratar de aserlo
Thank You so much for your time.
Hopefully that truck is his. I would be pissed if I pay someone to do work on my vehicle and find out they did not put parts back on .
Great video! could you assist me with the bolt size for the 4 bolts that go from mount to motor?
There is a large difference between 4x2 I'm working on 4 wheel drive 8.1 ltr heavy duty .
thanks bro good demostration
It doesn’t get better than that...great job buddy.
Thank you very much.
The metal cover you took off the motor mount....what purpose does it serve?
It's a heat shield. Fail to re-install it and the motor mount will have a very limited lifetime, as the heat from the exhaust will destroy the rubber of the mount.
@@cdurch1 it doesn't help the "longevity" of the original ones, so that's debatable.
Worked perfect. Screw the heat shield
2 hrs w/o and 1 bud light
Dude thx for this awesome video. Now I can replace it on my👍
Coat that rubber with tire-black or silicone....and put the heat shield back on ....the heat dried the rubber boot till it cracked ...!
Nice video, but man criminal to be replacing them with the anchor mounts. You will be doing them again soon...
Are the bolt that go to the motor the same as the bolts that go to the frame?
Lol, don't know. Why?
Because I need some and can only find bolts that say motor mount to block
Where can I get those spacers you used on your Jack to make it "taller"
Delroy August wood pieces from Home Depot
Great video,on point but for the moment you decided to leave off the heat shield.
🤘
If you will take that huge ass watch off you can actually get your hands in there easier ! Just a pro tip and nice video btw
That heat shield was on there for a reason...
Fuck that thing he said lol
@@pantherplatform lol, funny shit right there.
Is the heat shield on there to protect the motor mount? In older chevys they didn't have that Do you know why they are on newer trucks?
@@joleane2006 yes it was there to protect the rubber from degrading from heat which is a likely reason why these fail in the first place.
Nice video. Only suggestion would be to loosen the transmission mount. I found out that you can rip the transmission mount jacking it up. If it's not ripped already. Because that bad motor mount likely already ruined the transmission mount
Best video on youtube !!!! Thanks, man.
Great video. However, I think you shorten the lifespan of the new motor mount without the heat shield.
Great video!! Your awesome bro! How long did it take you?
Thanks! I can really remember how long it took, no longer than 2hours
I did the mounts on my 95 c1500 and it took me about 2 hours each, first time doing this though
kllgro gto rodriguez did the procedure from this video on your 95?
No heat shield huh, didn't think that was on there for a reason?
Yea the heat shield is there because the exhaust manifold is inches away, but hey maybe this guy likes replacing mounts
Love it
Haven't found a video yet that tells me the torque value on those bolts.
Engine mount to engine 37 lb ft, engine mount to frame 48 lb ft
I really appreciate you video and your tips ,,,... Thank you very much Thumbs up
Awesome thanks for your time in showing us
Do you have a vid for the passenger side?
Sorry I don't.
Straight to the point, new sub.
Looks so easy on a 2wd
Easy job for a lube tech who wants to make a weeks pay in 2 hours.
you should return the shild cover back for hear protection
Really
@@Donnythelatemodeltech Your response proves it, you can't hear until you get that heat shield back on.. On rare occasions, a hearing aid can solve the problem as well.
I love that no one shows how to do the passenger side
Is your truck you can do whatever you want
Thanks
which year is it?
Does this work for a gmc 1500?
Yes
i need how to replace motor mounts in a 4 wheel drive
can I do the same process on a Sierra 1500 awd the same
It's a little more difficult.
Bad move tossing the heat shield, I already did that about 3years ago and towing absolutely melted that mount with manifold heat. Don’t toss the heat shield very important
What kind of drop light is that?
Bluepoint
Has a shield for a reason..
It's all good but you got to reinstall the heat shield this is that backyard mechanic bs
Well done.
Thanks bro for sharing
You bet!
What about the passenger side
I love that almost the only words were.. I'm not putting that on, fuck that thing.
Thanks for the video. It helped me a great deal.
Mine failed early because the heat shield was not in place
Fuck that thing is there to elongate the life of synthetic rubber
Buen video good video👍
Good video.
Lol I said the same thing f... that cover 😂👍🏽
Not putting heat on just shows everyone how careless you are I wouldn’t want you working on my vehicle if you’re going to cut corners for everyone to see God knows what you do on the cameras not on.
This is why you will pay more to have the same work done.
Awesome vid!