2017 2WD Suburban. It worked well to get the part out because the old mount is collapsed. To get the new part in, it’s a huge pain. I removed the exhaust shield and removed the mount’s heat shield. I was then able to get it in but it wasn’t fun. Thanks for a great video.
I install them differently for 30 years now. I disconnect it and have a friend put it in gear with his foot on brake, and when it gets high enough I slip a 2x4, 4" side up and when he lets off it stays right there. Old one out new one in, lift the motor a hair 2x4 falls out, put bolts back in and done lol
Des this is one of the best specials I’ve seen in a while. You’re like a frickin machine gun with the jokes! I hope you get the recognition you deserve. You’re an amazing comic.
Oh my, I watched this video and it was great. I got excited to tackle my 2015 Denali. Got the part, unbolted the top of mine, and it was then that I realized, this video was two wheel drive and mine is four wheel drive. I'll just say, a lot of foul words at the ignorant engineers, one lost bolt, and "Four and a half hour later" the mount was in. It was during this time, as I diligently searched TH-cam and found not one video for AWD Yukon "2015 and up". Hummm🤔, now I know why. Lol Thank you for the video. 👍👍👍
mine is 4 wheel drive. What did you do? I don't want to pull the exhaust manifold like they recommend. I know those bolts will snap off from rust. I'm dreading this repair.
@bad00ss I unbolted the mount, used a block of wood and a jack to raise only the one side of the engine. The one I replaced was driver side. You can also take off the vacuum pump. If you take off the vacuum pump, use a new gasket when you reinstall the pump. I also took off the inner fender skirt and used extensions and a swivel to get two of the bolts.
@@ericed69 I'm getting ready to do my 4WD denali soon - where did you lift the driver's side of the engine? wood block on that side of the oil pan? or was there a better location? thanks!
I just completed this repair on my 4 wheel drive last weekend for drivers side mount. I left the exhaust manifold and Y pipe on the truck. I only removed the steering shaft, exhaust manifold heat shield, the wheel and the wheel well liner on the drivers side. once unbolted off the frame i jacked up the engine by the catalytic convertor. It tilted the motor over so I could get to the bolts on the engine block. removing the old mount i ripped the mount heat shield off so i could see the bolts. Installing them is a little more tricky because you cant damage the new mount heat shield. I accessed most of those bolts through the wheel well area with lots of extensions and a swivel. Removing the mount out of position you will need a pry bar and lots of wiggling. installing the new mount it will have to go in the exact way it came out or it will get jammed up and stuck down there. pay attention to how you rotated it to pull it out through the top.
its funny, Im a lexus tech here doing this same job and came here for tricks, found another Lexus tech giving me advise.. but yours is 2wd so it wasnt much help, i finally got it out the top.
Do u have to loosen up any other mounts prior to jacking motor up in order to get out the motor mounts out. Or did u just loosen up that driver side mount and leave the rest ?? Please let me know
Does a 4wd require the front differential to be removed? Or can I still get it out without removing the differential, use an engine support bar to support/jack the motor up, and work through the wheel well with the inner fender liner removed and wheel removed…
Thanks for showing the removal. It’s easier to get the broken one out when it’s in 2 pieces. And the Edit when you started to get it out and when it finally came outwas nice. How much footage did you cut out of you fiddle fucking around did you cut out? And Id love to see how you got the new rigid 1 piece mount back in there.
Yo whats up? I'm about to do the job and need to know what size I need for the big bolt that holds the bracket to the mount. I'm gonna pull it apart and don't have tools with me. I got the 15 mm but there's a big one also.
What are the symptoms I have a 2015 Tahoe and the trucks vibrates/shakes on acceleration at lower speeds or when I gotta accelerate to go up a hill. I’ve replaced plugs, wires, coil packs and all 3 catalytic converter’s and it’s still there. Could it be a motor mount???
If I would have realized that this Yukon Denali in the video was a 2x4 I wouldn’t have proceeded with the repairs myself. (Didn’t realize they had a 2x4 in the Denali trim.) Aside from that, 2 days later I FINALLY was able to get the old one out and the new one in. This was not an easy job at all! I would have spent the money to have a dealership do it had I known. Now it’s causing me more issues. My transmission now clunks when put into gear. I don’t know how I could have got the motor out of alignment for it to not engage properly since there is an alignment tip on the mount itself. Also when I put it in reverse I get a message saying Hill Start Assist. Makes me think it’s not in alignment and not engaging properly to cause some slippage. Super frustrating!
Man you’re superstitious your car just took a shit coincidently after the repairs. Now you know how frustrating it is when someone doesn’t know shit and comes and says that a tech broke the car after repairs when it was junk beforehand anyways.
Without front differential we get a better and easy aacces to the mount bolts . With front differential we cannot access bolts from underneath ,only we can do from upper side and tyre side, And for the first time it's a difficult job 🤘
I'm about to do this on my 2WD 2016 Silverado. I'm also having to replace the cats. Mounts have arrived, but not the new y-pipe. Would this motor mount job be easier if the y-pipe were already out? Trying to decide if I should wait and do it all at once
As Beanz mentioned above... any chance you could give insight as to if loosening the other mount(s) is needed? Certainly appreciate the video, I’ve been trying to find someone doing one of these newer models without removing steering components and all that stuff as many others appear to state needs to be done.
If you haven't already got the job done here's your answer....No need to loosen the other (passenger)mount, just removed the 7 bolts (3) on top (4) on the bottom and raise/support the engine. Lift and wiggle the mount out by hand. Reverse process for installing your new mount
Would be nice to show how to get it back in because the new one is obviously stretched out more. Don't know if you still have to take off the exhaust manifold or what
I'm curious why you didn't show the installation of the new one. I just did this job and it was a HUGE pain in the ass! Taking out the old motor mount was fairly easy but getting the new one into place was EXTREMELY difficult, so much so that I would have probably paid the $ for a mechanic to do the job had I known how frustrating it would be. 🤬🤬🤬🤬
I got 2014 Silverado going to change both the coming week u can hear it bottoming out drivers side but they say do both not just one better myself than paying 600$
Based on the comments and my having 4WD, it looks like this job will be done by a shop. I spent 30 minutes under my truck trying to see ANY path to the block mounting bolts. Assuming I could get them off, there is no way I could get them started on the install.
I just did mine and it four wheel drive. I removed the exhaust manifold and then you have a straight shot at it. I was nervous before starting but it’s not as scary as it looks.
Jack the motor up slightly from oil pan using wood block to support the engine..unbolt the motor mount, jack up engine more until you see passenger side of engine touch the firewall, remove the three 10MM bolts holding driver side exhaust manifold heat shield on.. once the heat shield is removed wiggle it up through the top under the brake lines on master cylinder
Easiest way for a 4x4 is to remove the exhaust manifold, probably it's all rusted and warped anyways, could use a rust cleanup and a new gasket, kill 2 birds with one stone
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2017 2WD Suburban. It worked well to get the part out because the old mount is collapsed. To get the new part in, it’s a huge pain. I removed the exhaust shield and removed the mount’s heat shield. I was then able to get it in but it wasn’t fun. Thanks for a great video.
I install them differently for 30 years now. I disconnect it and have a friend put it in gear with his foot on brake, and when it gets high enough I slip a 2x4, 4" side up and when he lets off it stays right there. Old one out new one in, lift the motor a hair 2x4 falls out, put bolts back in and done lol
Des this is one of the best specials I’ve seen in a while. You’re like a frickin machine gun with the jokes! I hope you get the recognition you deserve. You’re an amazing comic.
Oh my, I watched this video and it was great. I got excited to tackle my 2015 Denali. Got the part, unbolted the top of mine, and it was then that I realized, this video was two wheel drive and mine is four wheel drive. I'll just say, a lot of foul words at the ignorant engineers, one lost bolt, and "Four and a half hour later" the mount was in. It was during this time, as I diligently searched TH-cam and found not one video for AWD Yukon "2015 and up". Hummm🤔, now I know why. Lol
Thank you for the video. 👍👍👍
mine is 4 wheel drive. What did you do? I don't want to pull the exhaust manifold like they recommend. I know those bolts will snap off from rust. I'm dreading this repair.
@bad00ss I unbolted the mount, used a block of wood and a jack to raise only the one side of the engine. The one I replaced was driver side. You can also take off the vacuum pump. If you take off the vacuum pump, use a new gasket when you reinstall the pump. I also took off the inner fender skirt and used extensions and a swivel to get two of the bolts.
@@bad00ss hope this helps.
@@ericed69 I'm getting ready to do my 4WD denali soon - where did you lift the driver's side of the engine? wood block on that side of the oil pan? or was there a better location?
thanks!
I just completed this repair on my 4 wheel drive last weekend for drivers side mount. I left the exhaust manifold and Y pipe on the truck. I only removed the steering shaft, exhaust manifold heat shield, the wheel and the wheel well liner on the drivers side. once unbolted off the frame i jacked up the engine by the catalytic convertor. It tilted the motor over so I could get to the bolts on the engine block. removing the old mount i ripped the mount heat shield off so i could see the bolts. Installing them is a little more tricky because you cant damage the new mount heat shield. I accessed most of those bolts through the wheel well area with lots of extensions and a swivel. Removing the mount out of position you will need a pry bar and lots of wiggling. installing the new mount it will have to go in the exact way it came out or it will get jammed up and stuck down there. pay attention to how you rotated it to pull it out through the top.
Awesome. well explained brother and I approve this message
Well done sir ! well done.... excellent video
Very good video, I need to get mine replaced on my 2011 GMC Sierra.
its funny, Im a lexus tech here doing this same job and came here for tricks, found another Lexus tech giving me advise.. but yours is 2wd so it wasnt much help, i finally got it out the top.
Do u have to loosen up any other mounts prior to jacking motor up in order to get out the motor mounts out. Or did u just loosen up that driver side mount and leave the rest ?? Please let me know
Does a 4wd require the front differential to be removed? Or can I still get it out without removing the differential, use an engine support bar to support/jack the motor up, and work through the wheel well with the inner fender liner removed and wheel removed…
Will it cause a clunk or jerk that seems like its coming from the drivers side front wheel?
Thanks for showing the removal. It’s easier to get the broken one out when it’s in 2 pieces. And the Edit when you started to get it out and when it finally came outwas nice. How much footage did you cut out of you fiddle fucking around did you cut out? And Id love to see how you got the new rigid 1 piece mount back in there.
I got the old one out, but I’m catching hell getting it back in the hole. I’m going to try again tomorrow. Hopefully it will be a better day.
I grinded the guide out . Cut it off
Yo whats up? I'm about to do the job and need to know what size I need for the big bolt that holds the bracket to the mount. I'm gonna pull it apart and don't have tools with me. I got the 15 mm but there's a big one also.
What are the symptoms I have a 2015 Tahoe and the trucks vibrates/shakes on acceleration at lower speeds or when I gotta accelerate to go up a hill. I’ve replaced plugs, wires, coil packs and all 3 catalytic converter’s and it’s still there. Could it be a motor mount???
Did you remove inner fender?
Driver side easy. What about passenger side? Do u have a video on that one?
What size socket to take the cap off?
If I would have realized that this Yukon Denali in the video was a 2x4 I wouldn’t have proceeded with the repairs myself. (Didn’t realize they had a 2x4 in the Denali trim.) Aside from that, 2 days later I FINALLY was able to get the old one out and the new one in. This was not an easy job at all! I would have spent the money to have a dealership do it had I known. Now it’s causing me more issues. My transmission now clunks when put into gear. I don’t know how I could have got the motor out of alignment for it to not engage properly since there is an alignment tip on the mount itself. Also when I put it in reverse I get a message saying Hill Start Assist. Makes me think it’s not in alignment and not engaging properly to cause some slippage. Super frustrating!
Thanks for mentioning this about the 4x4 I was about to proceed with the repair. Now I will take it to the dealer no doubt.!!
Sounds like you didn’t do something right
Man you’re superstitious your car just took a shit coincidently after the repairs. Now you know how frustrating it is when someone doesn’t know shit and comes and says that a tech broke the car after repairs when it was junk beforehand anyways.
Would this be the same install for a 2017 gmc terrain slt?
No
In u r video This truck dont hav 4×4.
Thats why its more eazier ☺🚙
im gearing up to replace mind as well 4wd makes it much more difficult
Without front differential we get a better and easy aacces to the mount bolts .
With front differential we cannot access bolts from underneath ,only we can do from upper side and tyre side,
And for the first time it's a difficult job 🤘
Can you just change out one side?
I'm about to do this on my 2WD 2016 Silverado. I'm also having to replace the cats. Mounts have arrived, but not the new y-pipe. Would this motor mount job be easier if the y-pipe were already out? Trying to decide if I should wait and do it all at once
As Beanz mentioned above... any chance you could give insight as to if loosening the other mount(s) is needed? Certainly appreciate the video, I’ve been trying to find someone doing one of these newer models without removing steering components and all that stuff as many others appear to state needs to be done.
If you haven't already got the job done here's your answer....No need to loosen the other (passenger)mount, just removed the 7 bolts (3) on top (4) on the bottom and raise/support the engine. Lift and wiggle the mount out by hand. Reverse process for installing your new mount
@@derorisrael9451 you were able to replace the mount without taking the exhaust manifold off ??
@@UlfricStormcloak69 yes
Would be nice to show how to get it back in because the new one is obviously stretched out more. Don't know if you still have to take off the exhaust manifold or what
Just did it earlier take the heat shield off then you can finiggle it out
Changing mines this weekend thanks for the video
No problem!
I'm curious why you didn't show the installation of the new one. I just did this job and it was a HUGE pain in the ass! Taking out the old motor mount was fairly easy but getting the new one into place was EXTREMELY difficult, so much so that I would have probably paid the $ for a mechanic to do the job had I known how frustrating it would be. 🤬🤬🤬🤬
was it a 4wd?
@@TommyBaughman No. 2WD.
I got 2014 Silverado going to change both the coming week u can hear it bottoming out drivers side but they say do both not just one better myself than paying 600$
Yes bro …. Do both because with time you’re gonna have to fix one and then the other , etc
Based on the comments and my having 4WD, it looks like this job will be done by a shop. I spent 30 minutes under my truck trying to see ANY path to the block mounting bolts. Assuming I could get them off, there is no way I could get them started on the install.
I just did mine and it four wheel drive. I removed the exhaust manifold and then you have a straight shot at it. I was nervous before starting but it’s not as scary as it looks.
Jack the motor up slightly from oil pan using wood block to support the engine..unbolt the motor mount, jack up engine more until you see passenger side of engine touch the firewall, remove the three 10MM bolts holding driver side exhaust manifold heat shield on.. once the heat shield is removed wiggle it up through the top under the brake lines on master cylinder
This is easy…it’s rwd/2x4….my motor mount is shot on my 2015 Yukon xl 4x4 and I’ve been dreading replacing it.
Did you do the job yourself?
How da fuaq do you get the new one back in??
Did you do the job yourself? I’m about to try it.
NOTE-!! TO ALL DOING THIS JOB-THIS VID IS FOR 2 WHEEL DRIVE-!! NOT 4 WHEEL DRIVE-!!
It works but maybe worse than removing manifold
Cell phone as a flash light? Lol. My husband wears his flash light on his belt...
Easiest way for a 4x4 is to remove the exhaust manifold, probably it's all rusted and warped anyways, could use a rust cleanup and a new gasket, kill 2 birds with one stone
What's the cost / price for this service
priced at the dealer 1900 for both... priced at a small shop 690 for both...
Heat shield sacrifice
I would imagine beside having take starter out its that easy on passenger side hopfully
I grinded de guide off
How much of the guide did you cut? The guide you refer to is the metal rod end piece that fits into the frame lobe hole? Thanks
@@DjStalin100 Just did the same thing and only had to Bang it and Wiggle the engine up-and-down
HOW TF YOU GET IT BACK IN IV BEEN AT THIS FOR FUCLING 3 HRS JUST GETTING IT IN
Any tips after doing the job?
Slam it
I don’t think you can get it out that way if it’s a 4wd.
No light at the end of procedure so really not much here
WELL IT6S EASIER THAN A 4WD.
Yeah. Not that easy on a 4x4 model.
You did not show how you got the four bolts from underneath out
This is a poor design by chevy