The foam nut also helps the nuts from moving when you are operating the slide. When the motor switches directions, there is a moment of equilibrium and no pressure on the nut.
Great video - I have a small bed slide. It broke while all the way in and it will only move out about 3/4" before the teeth on gearbox start slipping. Can I replace the gearbox with the room where it is ? I think I can reach it as the slide is only about 20" deep.
Yes, you can replace the gearbox in any position. Just remember to use zip ties or something to loop through the chains to remember where to place them around the sprockets.
I have made a big mistake in trying to change the engine and I missed the cables conections... Then I saw the video and I realized that each one is very important. Now I don't know which one corresponds to which one I'm trying to investigate, but I can't find any video explaining it. Which fight does each of the cables correspond to, both in and out of the front and rear.... I am very confused and afraid of ruining the system now that I have the new engine
You are in good hands. I have provided a link to the cable routing diagrams as well as a link to a document that will help with the chain placement on the dual sprocket of the gearbox. 1.balrvproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/products/oem/slides/GDS.SLD_.030-ACCU-Slide-Cable-Routing-Diagram-REV-B.pdf 2. balrvproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/downloads/tech/ACCU-SLIDE-CABLE-ROUTING_ALTERNATIVE-DRAWING.pdf 3. balrvproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/downloads/tech/GDS.SLD_.031-ACCU-SLIDE-CHAIN-INSTALLATION.pdf If you need any additional technical help, please email baltechsupport@norcoind.com to send some photos of what you have going on and they can help advise what to do.
I am replacing the motor assembly. I've noticed mine is the opposite of yours in the video. My gear box is facing down. Does it make a difference? Currently.
The process is still the same for motor and gearboxes that have the sprocket pointing down. Just make sure you mark which chain attaches to the motor first, on the sprocket closest to the gearbox.
What could be the problem with my slide ... whn you push the in/out button the slide will move for a min then stop, I give it a few seconds and it moves a little more and stops again. Eventually after successive pushes & some time it will extend/retract all the way. But it's time consuming. I have resorted to using my drill as it is much faster.
When a slide-out stalls repeatedly like this, it typically means there is a voltage related root cause. TRY ALTERNATE POWER SOURCE DIRECTLY TO MOTORS. CHECK VOLTAGE COMING OUT OF THE BATTERIES. IF IT IS LOWER THAN 12V, CHARGE OR REPLACE BATTERIES. CHECK VOLTAGE COMING IN AND OUT OF THE SWITCH. THE ISSUE COULD BE THE SWITCH, THE BREAKER BETWEEN THE BATTERIES AND SWITCH OR THE WIRING IN BETWEEN.
My issue is that the mounting screws for the motor and gear box assembly have worked themselves loose and the holes have become oversized. It seems the screw locations are not into any substantial backing. I'm planning to create a mounting plate (1/4" aluminum) large enough to span any framing members and attach the assembly to that with machine screws. Does this sound like a good plan?
You are headed down the right path. You could also reach out to the OEM of the RV to obtain an engineering print of the main wall to determine the location of the closest wall support (i.e. studs and header). There will be a main header running across the top of the opening in that main wall. Adhesive on the back of your aluminum plate, screwed to that header would give you the surface you need to secure the motor.
A larger diameter wood screw would be recommended if the holes have become oblong or oversized. Do not use self tappers or they will act like a drill and bore a hole, not allowing the thread of the screws to hold.
How do you get the slide out back out to fix it. My gear box is broken could hear it break. also how do I change the rollers on my Lakota Horse Trailer? It was like the slide was stuck before it broke the gear box.
If you could email baltechsupport@norcoind.com a photo of the style of rollers that are currently installed and explain that the room appeared to be stuck before the gearbox failure, they can assist you in replacement parts research and installation instruction, with the safest way to extend the slide room for repair.
You can push the slide out half way with the chains removed from the motor. Make sure at the halfway point, you place support under the room with a jack.
The best way to perform an adjustment is to extend (in the out position) the room completely in order to have easier access to the cable adjustment brackets. With the room fully extended check top and bottom of both sides to verify all points have sealed. If it is not uniform then an adjustment is necessary. 1. Before tightening an adjustment nut, loosen the cables and chains attached to the “IN” adjustment brackets to insure that the exterior cables wont pull against you, while trying to accomplish an out seal. 2. Tension the OUT BTM cables until the bottom interior standoff brackets make contact with jamb. 3. Tension the OUT TOP cables until the adjustment bracket is sitting straight up and down insuring that both OUT TOP and OUT BTM cables are tensioned evenly. 4. Tension the IN TOP and IN BTM cables and chain until you have reached ½” deflection on the exterior cables. (Deflection: you should be able to use your thumb and pointer finger to easily lift the cable ½” and push the cable down ½” from center.) 5. When the system is adjusted, tighten all jamb nuts and replace anti-vibration blocks. If you would like more detail and diagrams, feel free to email baltechsupport@norcoind.com and they would be happy to assist you.
Anyone run into the factory installing the cables with no room to lossen the nut so you can replace the motor. All four cable adjustments have no slack to losses up, if I back the nuts off all the way, the tension will be so high I will not be able to put it back together?
In that situation it may be possible to loosen the chain adjustment to add slack. If that does not give you enough slack to remove and attach the chains to the new assembly, it should give you enough slack to detach the opposing end of the cable from the standoff bracket. You may need to use locking needle nose vice grips to slide the cable end out of the standoff brackets. Just don't let the ball end of the cable get pulled inside the jamb assembly.
RV OEMs use a variety of glide surfaces when they design the construction of the slide room and the opening in the main wall of the RV. If equipped with a wear bar or rollers, you would want to use a food grade lubricant such as ZEP 45 with PTFE to spray along the glide surface.
Accu-Slides have mulitple styles of motor and gearbox assemblies that are used depending on the specifications of the RV OEM. Some are a sealed unit and others are assembled, making the motor and gearbox available separately. If you can access the motor and gearbox to identify the numbers on the labels of either, often those part numbers can be searched on balrvproducts.com to identify if the motor is available as a separate component. Also feel free to email baltechsupport.com with a photo of your motor and gearbox assembly for help in identifying available replacement subcomponents.
There are actually 4 cables on each end. An upper and lower cable run to brackets by the flange at the exterior wall for in, and two other cables run to brackets mounted to the interior edge of the wall, concealed by facial. These pull the slide out. At 10:09 you can see the upper right extend cable and bracket. It runs through a couple pulleys up to the adjustment brackets he was showing.
@@VOOODOOO37 Nice! I’d also heard negative things about this type, but I only have experience with hydraulic and electric rack and pinion. Trying to TH-cam educate myself, these don’t seem that bad to adjust or repair. A hydraulic leak, or a broken gear on a discontinued rack and pinion aren’t exactly a picnic to deal with either. Anyway good to hear yours works well. I think I might prefer this to a Schwintek.
@@JeffinTD I watch Josh The RV Nerd, he has done videos on most types. They all have their possible bad points, but I don't sweat it, with so many RVs out there, I've never heard of everyone steering clear of Schwintek for example.
I do like watching Josh, but there is a bit of rose colored glasses there, imho. Yeah a Schwintek on a small slide wouldn’t put me off a model I otherwise like, but me personally I wouldn’t want a large heavy slide on that system. AZ Expert is another great TH-cam channel, as is Hillbilly RV
Hey I just bought a Gulfstream camper with a accu slide out. On our first trip my wife tried opening the slide without leveling the place. It stopped working completely the motor didn't even make noises. Under the dinette I noticed the motor and I took the power leads off the motor. When I press the slide switch I have no power going to motor. The slide still works if I jump power from battery too motor. Does is this accu system have a controller somewhere I can't find ?. The breaker and fuse for rv slide is good so I'm not sure what I'm missing. Turns out the bottom plywood sheet that rides on rollers is all rotten out and I'll need to replace it or slide some metal sheets in there. Any help would help as I have opened up every shelf possible and I can't find the controller for slide. No power coming to the slide open and close switch. I have a 2013 gulf 23rb visa. Slide is with dinette and accu system with motor at bottom of slide. Please help
BAL Accu-Slides did not come with a controller between the switch and the motor. Some RV OEMs add their own relays from the switch to the motor to reverse the polarity, depending on the style of switch they were using. There should also be a dedicated 30 amp reset breaker from the battery to the switch. If you have a volt meter, check to see if you are getting 12v to the switch and 12v coming out of the switch.
@NorcoIndustries hi thanks for the reply. It's good to know that I can stop searching for the controller as it doesn't exist. Perhaps this reset braker is located somewhere outside under the camper ? The fuse dedicated from main power panel is good
@@davidkania3720 The 30 amp reset breaker can be located in-line from the battery, which is usually within a foot of the battery itself and will likely have a plastic housing or cover over it.
@NorcoIndustries reason I ran into the whole issue is because the underside of accu slide rotted on one side and the plywood fell apart and won't roll nicely on the 4 rollers it rides on. Is it possible replacing that whole plywood underneath without completely removing the slide ? Is there any info on how to tackle that project.
If you didn't mark the chains before removing them from the dual sprocket, we recommend positioning the room to the half extended/half retracted position. Then following the instructions we have in the following document. balrvproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/downloads/tech/GDS.SLD_.031-ACCU-SLIDE-CHAIN-INSTALLATION.pdf
If anyone is having issues this is the video to watch it made it super simple thank you for this.
The foam nut also helps the nuts from moving when you are operating the slide. When the motor switches directions, there is a moment of equilibrium and no pressure on the nut.
Great video - I have a small bed slide. It broke while all the way in and it will only move out about 3/4" before the teeth on gearbox start slipping. Can I replace the gearbox with the room where it is ? I think I can reach it as the slide is only about 20" deep.
Yes, you can replace the gearbox in any position. Just remember to use zip ties or something to loop through the chains to remember where to place them around the sprockets.
I have made a big mistake in trying to change the engine and I missed the cables conections... Then I saw the video and I realized that each one is very important. Now I don't know which one corresponds to which one I'm trying to investigate, but I can't find any video explaining it. Which fight does each of the cables correspond to, both in and out of the front and rear.... I am very confused and afraid of ruining the system now that I have the new engine
You are in good hands. I have provided a link to the cable routing diagrams as well as a link to a document that will help with the chain placement on the dual sprocket of the gearbox.
1.balrvproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/products/oem/slides/GDS.SLD_.030-ACCU-Slide-Cable-Routing-Diagram-REV-B.pdf
2. balrvproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/downloads/tech/ACCU-SLIDE-CABLE-ROUTING_ALTERNATIVE-DRAWING.pdf
3. balrvproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/downloads/tech/GDS.SLD_.031-ACCU-SLIDE-CHAIN-INSTALLATION.pdf
If you need any additional technical help, please email baltechsupport@norcoind.com to send some photos of what you have going on and they can help advise what to do.
I am replacing the motor assembly. I've noticed mine is the opposite of yours in the video. My gear box is facing down. Does it make a difference? Currently.
The process is still the same for motor and gearboxes that have the sprocket pointing down. Just make sure you mark which chain attaches to the motor first, on the sprocket closest to the gearbox.
What could be the problem with my slide ... whn you push the in/out button the slide will move for a min then stop, I give it a few seconds and it moves a little more and stops again. Eventually after successive pushes & some time it will extend/retract all the way. But it's time consuming. I have resorted to using my drill as it is much faster.
When a slide-out stalls repeatedly like this, it typically means there is a voltage related root cause.
TRY ALTERNATE POWER SOURCE DIRECTLY TO MOTORS.
CHECK VOLTAGE COMING OUT OF THE BATTERIES. IF IT IS LOWER THAN 12V, CHARGE OR REPLACE BATTERIES.
CHECK VOLTAGE COMING IN AND OUT OF THE SWITCH. THE ISSUE COULD BE THE SWITCH, THE BREAKER BETWEEN THE BATTERIES AND SWITCH OR THE WIRING IN BETWEEN.
My issue is that the mounting screws for the motor and gear box assembly have worked themselves loose and the holes have become oversized. It seems the screw locations are not into any substantial backing. I'm planning to create a mounting plate (1/4" aluminum) large enough to span any framing members and attach the assembly to that with machine screws. Does this sound like a good plan?
You are headed down the right path. You could also reach out to the OEM of the RV to obtain an engineering print of the main wall to determine the location of the closest wall support (i.e. studs and header). There will be a main header running across the top of the opening in that main wall. Adhesive on the back of your aluminum plate, screwed to that header would give you the surface you need to secure the motor.
@@NorcoIndustries my first thought and you would be who to ask. What about using larger screws?
A larger diameter wood screw would be recommended if the holes have become oblong or oversized. Do not use self tappers or they will act like a drill and bore a hole, not allowing the thread of the screws to hold.
How do you get the slide out back out to fix it. My gear box is broken could hear it break. also how do I change the rollers on my Lakota Horse Trailer? It was like the slide was stuck before it broke the gear box.
If you could email baltechsupport@norcoind.com a photo of the style of rollers that are currently installed and explain that the room appeared to be stuck before the gearbox failure, they can assist you in replacement parts research and installation instruction, with the safest way to extend the slide room for repair.
Can I push out my slide if the motor is disconnected and if so do I have to support it. Waiting on parts and would like to have it out while waiting
You can push the slide out half way with the chains removed from the motor. Make sure at the halfway point, you place support under the room with a jack.
My slide is all the way in, would in I tighten the in cables first ?
The best way to perform an adjustment is to extend (in the out position) the room completely in order to have easier access to the cable adjustment brackets. With the room fully extended check top and bottom of both sides to verify all points have sealed. If it is not uniform then an adjustment is necessary.
1. Before tightening an adjustment nut, loosen the cables and chains attached to the “IN” adjustment brackets to insure that the exterior cables wont pull against you, while trying to accomplish an out seal.
2. Tension the OUT BTM cables until the bottom interior standoff brackets make contact with jamb.
3. Tension the OUT TOP cables until the adjustment bracket is sitting straight up and down insuring that both OUT TOP and OUT BTM cables are tensioned evenly.
4. Tension the IN TOP and IN BTM cables and chain until you have reached ½” deflection on the exterior cables. (Deflection: you should be able to use your thumb and pointer finger to easily lift the cable ½” and push the cable down ½” from center.)
5. When the system is adjusted, tighten all jamb nuts and replace anti-vibration blocks.
If you would like more detail and diagrams, feel free to email baltechsupport@norcoind.com and they would be happy to assist you.
Anyone run into the factory installing the cables with no room to lossen the nut so you can replace the motor. All four cable adjustments have no slack to losses up, if I back the nuts off all the way, the tension will be so high I will not be able to put it back together?
In that situation it may be possible to loosen the chain adjustment to add slack. If that does not give you enough slack to remove and attach the chains to the new assembly, it should give you enough slack to detach the opposing end of the cable from the standoff bracket. You may need to use locking needle nose vice grips to slide the cable end out of the standoff brackets. Just don't let the ball end of the cable get pulled inside the jamb assembly.
What size is nut drive wrench were you using?
Did you ever find out?
How do you grease the slides underneath?
RV OEMs use a variety of glide surfaces when they design the construction of the slide room and the opening in the main wall of the RV. If equipped with a wear bar or rollers, you would want to use a food grade lubricant such as ZEP 45 with PTFE to spray along the glide surface.
@NorcoIndustries Is it possible to buy just the motor?
Accu-Slides have mulitple styles of motor and gearbox assemblies that are used depending on the specifications of the RV OEM. Some are a sealed unit and others are assembled, making the motor and gearbox available separately. If you can access the motor and gearbox to identify the numbers on the labels of either, often those part numbers can be searched on balrvproducts.com to identify if the motor is available as a separate component. Also feel free to email baltechsupport.com with a photo of your motor and gearbox assembly for help in identifying available replacement subcomponents.
@@NorcoIndustries Thanks very much.
how does this type slide get pushed out, I have the same one, and there isn't a ram under it, just 2 cables on each side.
There are actually 4 cables on each end. An upper and lower cable run to brackets by the flange at the exterior wall for in, and two other cables run to brackets mounted to the interior edge of the wall, concealed by facial. These pull the slide out. At 10:09 you can see the upper right extend cable and bracket. It runs through a couple pulleys up to the adjustment brackets he was showing.
@@JeffinTD mechanical marvel, works well. Some people avoid this type, but overall, its been great for me, and reliable. Nice explanation, thanks!
@@VOOODOOO37 Nice! I’d also heard negative things about this type, but I only have experience with hydraulic and electric rack and pinion. Trying to TH-cam educate myself, these don’t seem that bad to adjust or repair. A hydraulic leak, or a broken gear on a discontinued rack and pinion aren’t exactly a picnic to deal with either. Anyway good to hear yours works well. I think I might prefer this to a Schwintek.
@@JeffinTD I watch Josh The RV Nerd, he has done videos on most types. They all have their possible bad points, but I don't sweat it, with so many RVs out there, I've never heard of everyone steering clear of Schwintek for example.
I do like watching Josh, but there is a bit of rose colored glasses there, imho. Yeah a Schwintek on a small slide wouldn’t put me off a model I otherwise like, but me personally I wouldn’t want a large heavy slide on that system.
AZ Expert is another great TH-cam channel, as is Hillbilly RV
5:12 start of install
Hey I just bought a Gulfstream camper with a accu slide out. On our first trip my wife tried opening the slide without leveling the place. It stopped working completely the motor didn't even make noises. Under the dinette I noticed the motor and I took the power leads off the motor. When I press the slide switch I have no power going to motor. The slide still works if I jump power from battery too motor. Does is this accu system have a controller somewhere I can't find ?. The breaker and fuse for rv slide is good so I'm not sure what I'm missing. Turns out the bottom plywood sheet that rides on rollers is all rotten out and I'll need to replace it or slide some metal sheets in there. Any help would help as I have opened up every shelf possible and I can't find the controller for slide. No power coming to the slide open and close switch. I have a 2013 gulf 23rb visa. Slide is with dinette and accu system with motor at bottom of slide. Please help
BAL Accu-Slides did not come with a controller between the switch and the motor. Some RV OEMs add their own relays from the switch to the motor to reverse the polarity, depending on the style of switch they were using. There should also be a dedicated 30 amp reset breaker from the battery to the switch. If you have a volt meter, check to see if you are getting 12v to the switch and 12v coming out of the switch.
@NorcoIndustries hi thanks for the reply. It's good to know that I can stop searching for the controller as it doesn't exist. Perhaps this reset braker is located somewhere outside under the camper ? The fuse dedicated from main power panel is good
@@davidkania3720 The 30 amp reset breaker can be located in-line from the battery, which is usually within a foot of the battery itself and will likely have a plastic housing or cover over it.
@@NorcoIndustries thanks I'll take a look
@NorcoIndustries reason I ran into the whole issue is because the underside of accu slide rotted on one side and the plywood fell apart and won't roll nicely on the 4 rollers it rides on. Is it possible replacing that whole plywood underneath without completely removing the slide ? Is there any info on how to tackle that project.
What do i do if i didnt mark my chains....?
If you didn't mark the chains before removing them from the dual sprocket, we recommend positioning the room to the half extended/half retracted position. Then following the instructions we have in the following document.
balrvproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/downloads/tech/GDS.SLD_.031-ACCU-SLIDE-CHAIN-INSTALLATION.pdf
Be nice to know what size wrenches you are using…..couldn’t watch past the chain loosening…
7/16 jam nut 3/8 for cable nuts