BAL Accu-Slide Adjustment & Tensioning
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ม.ค. 2023
- Note: If your system has a larger bracket with the threaded cable ends above the corner pulley bracket, go to the video for ACCU-SLIDE Double Back Adjustment and Tensioning, • BAL Accu-Slide Adjustm...
The ACCU-Slide is a cable operated slide-out mechanism that utilizes a single motor and gearbox. There are several styles of this system, such as: ABS, Hybrid, and G4. Each of these are tensioned with the method as seen in this video.
Visit balrvproducts.com for cable routing diagrams, technical support and parts breakdowns.
balrvproducts.com/product/acc... - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
This is the BEST video I have found for adjusting these cables. Wish it was out last year when I had to replace a gear box. Now I just need to adjust mine again.
Thanks
Thank you so much. I needed to do this today before a big trip to Yellowstone next week, with no time to get it into a shop. Mine was getting pulled off to one side so this video helped me figure out how to put proper tension and hopefully get it back squared up and all points tight. I was able to see how someone had previously repaired the cables poorly, and I made corrections.
Not like I have to tell you, after reading the other comments... but, this is a great step by step video. Thanks!!
Finally some good advice and demonstration. Thank you!
Great video, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the video. I just Justin mine and everything’s A-OK. Thank you sir.
Great video - thanks
I love the high tech "anti vibration foam blocks". Good Lord.
Your post made us chuckle. That being said, over the years of testing and production we have found that foam blocks are very effective. You do have the option of using a 1/4"-20 HEX NUT.
@@NorcoIndustriesUh, no, the foam blocks are completely ineffective actually. After 3 years of full timing, moving frequently, I had to adjust the slide cables every 3-6 months. Finally installed the 1/4x20 nuts after watching someone else’s video who recommended them and a year later, have not had to make any adjustments. Please consider installing the 1/4x20 nuts at the factory.
Thank you for the recommendation. We will pass the suggestion along to the design team.
Thanks! You just saved me a lot of $$!!
Well, mine isn't the demo model and has trim on it with about 400 tack nails because someone got trigger happy! I guess I'll reply on the tension method until something else breaks. I'm not sure another system is better but I am sure I didn't have trouble with them.
Thanks
Great video, thanks for the step by step....I've seen some manufacturers (Alliance) putting the tension adjustments on the bottom of their bedroom slides instead of the top. How in the world are you supposed to service/maintain that slide system, if it's installed like that? I would assume it's virtually impossible to get to???
There are two different styles of dual motor slides. The older more obscure style has the motors mounted at the bottom of the jamb assemblies and has a timing shaft hidden above the top wipe seal, opposed to an electronic controller. That style is tensioned the exact opposite of the Exact Slide, where the motors are mounted at the top of the jamb assemblies. For top mounted motors, you always want the bottom to have the tighter tension. With the room retracted the bottom cable should be tightened to 20 lbs or have a 1/4" deflection from center using your thumb and index finger and the top should be 10 lbs or have 1/2" deflection from center.
I have to be missing something. I was adjusting but things were not getting better. For sake of argument. I am bringing in my slide-out. The bottom was coming in while the top was at least 1.5 inches out. So, I decide to just bring the top in so I loosened the top cables in the shuttle so the bottom cables would be loose. I had them super loose but yet as the slide came in the super loose cable became tight. That does not make sense to me. Please help..LOL
When the room is extended the OUT cables have all the tension on them and the IN cables will relax. When the room is being retracted, the tension transfers to the IN cables, because they are pulling the room in. Please see the cable routing: balrvproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/products/oem/slides/GDS.SLD_.030-ACCU-Slide-Cable-Routing-Diagram-REV-B.pdf
Let us know if you still need assistance.
How good are these cable slide outs? I've always had the metal gear ones on the bottom of the slide
Cable operated slides are very dependable, as they use aircraft cables to pull the room in and out. The room floats in the opening from right to left, so any hard stops on the road that shift the slide room forward will self correct when the room is extended and retracted. The Accu Slide has been around for decades and is a very reliable system. Through frame slides or above floor slides that use an actuator to extend and retract, which are also highly reliable, are used in applications for heavier slide rooms. We also manufacture through frame slide systems for our NXG Travel Trailer and Fifthwheel Frames.
Thanks for a great instructional. Our room started dragging on the floor at the rear wall. After watching this video I put the room out, removed the top trim and checked the cables. The first thing I found is the jamb nuts are loose, one by 1/2”. Can they vibrate loose while traveling or might this be because the service tech who adjusted the cables a couple of years ago didn’t tighten them properly? I can’t see the sides because of the trim. Should I remove that or can I just watch for movement when I pull on the cable, as you do in the video?
The coupler nuts should all have an antivibration foam block on them to keep them from vibrating loose during travel or operation. The 1/4" jamb nut for the chain connection to the adjustment bracket should be tightened against the adjustment bracket. If the jamb nut for the chain adjustment was 1/2" from the adjustment bracket, it is unlikely that it was previously tightened into the correct position.
Thanks for the fast reply. Your video helped me readjust the cables. The dealer who adjusted it last, and failed to tighten any of the jamb nuts, admitted he was having trouble hiring experienced workers. Unfortunately, not until after they did the work. With your guidance, I was able to adjust the cables and it now works smooth as silk.
Is there a procedure or video when all the adjustments are completely out if wack? When i took it all apart i did not know i was supposed to mark and keep track of adjustments .
We can certainly help. Since you mentioned taking it all apart, we would want to clarify which components were disassembled as well. If you can email baltechsupport@norcoind.com and explain what parts were replaced and which step in the process you are at, then we can make sure we provide a list of what you want to check and verify, as well as the next steps to get things functioning for you again.
We have a 2015 Montana 3725RL (bought new). The bedroom/hallway slide (huge and heavy) has a cable system (annoying). We had 2 cables break in a wind storm in Quartzsite with the slides halfway in. A mobile repair person came out and fixed them, complaining the whole time. We have replaced the motor ourselves. Now, the top left cable (from being inside) broke away from the outside of the slide. I wiggled and traced the loose cable from the top of the INN block (with the words facing the wall) to the back (closest to the wall) of the bottom pulley and down the tube with the other cables. I can push it down in a ways, but how do I find it and get it pulled back outside to reattach it to the slide? Is there a bare-bones diagram of where each cable goes and which direction they travel? We're close...
Our technical support team would be happy to assist you with a cable routing diagram and help determine the root cause to the problems you have experienced. If you can email them at baltechsupport@norcoind.com and provide your information, they will be able to help.
What size are the adjustment nuts? I want to buy some ratcheting wrenches to keep in the camper.
We recommend a speed drive 3/8" & 7/16" box wrench or 1/4" deep well socket wrench.
What should I be doing or looking for , the entire slide is shifted to far left inside the opening. So big gap on right side vertical edge and to tight on left vertical edge and tearing up the seal.
The room will naturally float between the jambs, when the cables are adjusted properly, unless something else to stopping the room from free floating. You would want to check the glide surface under the room to ensure that it is not flattened or damaged first.
Yes the video is helpful. But Because my bed slide has a lot built in it and nice trim all the way around it. The video is more helpful when being installed and setup. Is there a video that is helpful for a 12 ft long slide that is difficult to see if pulls on or moves cable someplace.
The interior vertical decorative trim has to be removed when we perform the adjustment. If the exterior cables have too much slack when the room is extended or you are experiencing any issues getting the room to extend or retract completely, then you would need to remove the trim to access everything.
My slide out is tilted when all the way out, looks like the bottom is not all the way out and my dinette table is not straight when the slide is all the way out, also there’s and inch gap between the slide out floor and the rest of floor. Any advise?
I would start by inspecting the glide surface under the slide room. There are several types that the RV Manufacturers use (i.e. rollers, wear bar, or flush floor with a wear bar and compression rollers in a drop pan). Verify that the glide surface is not damaged or worn. If everything looks good there, we typically put a jack under the room at the further edge while extended and raise it just enough to make the room sit level. Then we check the adjustments inside, to confirm that they are 1/2" deflection from center using your thumb and index finger. Then we remove the jack and if the interior bottom of the slide floor relaxes back in at the bottom (no longer level); this is an indication that the magnets in the motor have weakened and need to be replaced.
My motir is under my master bed not on top. My left inner cable bracket it bent badly in that the slide will not seal in the out position. We are working on replacing that bracket today. Our main problem is that the gear box/motor was offsetti the right about 8 inches which would have been fine but the cables were not cur to match. Now i have cables that have 3-4 threads holding all the tension. Is it possible to move the fear box? I cant see a way to make this work because the builders skrewd us over and made this unsafe as it is.
There are some RV Manufacturers that specifically request the motor to be mounted offset from the center of the rough opening, but that does change the cable and chain lengths in the design process for the left and right of the room. Most often the dual sprocket on the gear box should be aligned with the center mark of the opening, to allow the cables and chains on the right and left to be the exact same lengths. There is a backer in the wall for the motor to mount to. Page 2 of this link may also help: balrvproducts.com/wp-content/uploads/downloads/tech/GDS.SLD_.031-ACCU-SLIDE-CHAIN-INSTALLATION.pdf
I am adjusting the cables on my Kestone passport. When I pulled the valance, BAL controlled slide, I saw that the motor and gearbox were mounted at an angle. The motor was lower than the gearbox.
The tensioners are angled, possibly intentionally due to the angle of the gearbox. Is this allowable correct?
Thanks if you can comment.
When the wall bracket is mounted to the wall, it should be mounted at a slant with the motor end of the assembly tilted 1/4" away from the chain. The bracket should not be mounted straight with the motor end of the assembly pulled down, bending the bracket, as this can damage the drive shaft between the motor and gearbox (when applicable). The chain on the same side as the motor end, should also be on the sprocket that is furthest from the gearbox. This set up is to prohibit the adjustment brackets (chain to cable connection) from hitting the end of the motor assembly. If you would like to send us a photo to baltechsupport@norocind.com of the installation of the motor assembly, our technicians can review them for additional advise.
@@NorcoIndustries Thanks for the clarification, will follow up with support.
When you say fully extended, is the motor supposed to amp out? My brackets are tight against the jam before the motor stops while pushing the button. One of the jams on my big slide looks like it was smashed a little on the bottom by the bracket on the inside.
Yes, the motors should amp out.
Cool and all but how are you supposed to do this when there is all the molding on?
Since the room has to be adjusted with the room extended, the header trim/fascia is removed for this process.
@@NorcoIndustries yes I see. I did end up getting to trim off. Not as bad as I thought it was going to be. Followed your video and now both my slides run in and out smoothly. Wow they where out of whack...thanks for the good video!
Is there an average number of cycles between adjustments?
All
Of
Them
I have a 2000 31ft wildwood can't fi d motor
We have mulitple cable operated slides. Accu Slides have the motor mounted above or below the slide room at the center of the opening. Other styles, such as the G5 with Timing Shaft or the Exact Slide have dual motors concealed in the jamb on the top or bottom of the right and left of the room.
I followed the troubleshooting and loosened the 'ins'. I then pulled on the outs as instructed to see if the bottom would lay flush to the jam and it did not. Why could this be? When the slide is all the way out my slide floor stays an inch above the rv floor.
If the interior standoff brackets do not make contact with the jamb, with the room fully retracted and the cables tensioned, we would want to determine if the motor or gearbox have ever been changed. With the room extended half way, see if the adjustment brackets line up on each side of the motor. Or count the number of links from the end of the chain to the first tooth on the sprocket to see if both sides match.
@@NorcoIndustries The gearbox and motor I just replaced a few months ago. This has been the issue ever since replacing. I will count the sprockets and reply back. Thank you for the response.
@Norco Industries ok so there are 37 links from the last tooth on the sprocket to the right side 'out' cables and 40 from the last tooth on the left side.
@@bocabretts123 We have step by step information on the best way reposition the chain on the sprocket. If you can email us at baltechsupport@norcoind.com, we can send you the detailed steps.
Hello. I have a cable slide that starts to go out but then starts “clicking” and won’t go out any further but will go in fine. Does it sound like the “out” cables are out of adjustment?
My notes from the video:
1. run slides out
2. check seal - standoff brackets should be touching metal frame jamb
3. loosen IN cables - center nut
4. pull OUT bottom cable (physically on top) to see bottom of slide move out
5. tighten OUT bottom cable (physically on top)
6. test to ensure slide is now sealed properly, and pulling on cable doesn't move it
7. ensure tension of the two OUT top cable (physically on bottom) is same tension
8. ensure bracket is straight up and down / not tilted in any way
9. if you can spin jamb nut in by hand, tighten both it and the nut
10. tighten nut, ensure even tension between the cable and chain
11. cable tension should be .5-.75" apart when squeezed 6" away from block
12. lock jamb nut and nut in place, reinstall foam blocks
13. verify half inch cable deflection when pushed by two fingers