1. I'd use a linemans splice any time you need to connect two wires. VERY strong and you can make it much more tidy, no little sharp edges and such. 2. Just use some heavy gauge solid copper wire for those "main" wire + and - leads you've attached across (starting at 8:38)
This guy is excellent.. I would pay him for the VALUABLE INFO. Up to now I was in total confusion how voltage is decided! How Ah capacity calculated! I read his article "How To Build A DIY Electric Bicycle Lithium Battery From 18650 Cells" HE MAKES IT SOOOO EASY.. ya his video clearfied about connecting "bms"! I can even now calculate the theoretical weight ( I have one as sample) the rest is in my brand new busted 60v 20ah! Batt. I bought for 1500$..:( sniff) some misleading utube said u can charge lithium using other lithium (not true)! God bless u.. I have a friend just like u.. but he's gone on to become"stealth ebikes" agent for Middle East! May u prosper, sir!
Have you ever thought about making a Tesla type powerwall battery for use with solar for your home? I think it's relatively the same as this but with more batteries. This is the project I'm going to tackle next.
I'm sorry if this sounds stupid but I just bought a 36v 15ah battery 10s5p and the cells are 3.7v and 2600mah so am I right in thinking I only have a 13ah battery the 5p x 2.600mah = 13ah? and is this a marketing thing or have I been mislead, Thanks for any help. Brannen
Hello, why you don't use polymer li-lion battery for your assembly. it has bigger capacity, so you no need paralleling the cells as increasing the capacity.
Great video. Question, my battery is 48v 20ah. My controller is 48v 20ah. Manufacturer upgrade from 20ah b/c none in stock. Will this combo work? Heard it could damage battery. I use PAS too when riding. Hope you can help. Thanks. /Bklyn👑
Very very useful! can you give us an advice if the pack is used for a period of time. what would be the permitted difference between old cells of the pack and new cells we add? thanks!
If you mean voltage difference, it needs to be almost no difference. This is easy to achieve though, I just discharged the 24V battery until it matched the cells. For cell life, it's not super critical, but you'll be limited by the weaker cells. Basically, if your existing battery is a year old, and you add brand new cells in series, you aren't going to add any lifetime to the pack. It will still basically die when it was going to die. If you were adding cells in parallel to increase the capacity, you would want to try to use cells with as much capacity, if not more. If you use cells with less capacity, added in parallel, then you'll end up with a lower capacity pack overall because those cells will drain quickly and rob the other cells of their capacity.
Basically it is exactly as you assumed. My pack is a year old and I want to increase the voltage from 36 to 48 adding cells with the same configuration. I was just wondering if connecting used cells with brand new cells would cause any other problem apart from performance. I guess from your answer there isn't something important to worry about..
Yea, it won't be an issue from the safety side of things. It's just a longevity thing. If your pack was originally going to last 3 years, it's still only going to have 2 years of life left in it after you add the new cells. But functionally speaking, adding new cells is just fine. This pack was about 6 months old when I did this upgrade.
Hello Micah, while you were connecting the positive discharge red wire into the 10th parallel group, you stripped the whole wire to meet the length of the parallel group. But is it possible to solder the discharge wire at just one spot of the whole parallel group? Will this option generate more heat in the discharge wires? Thanks.
I'm new to the eBike concept but I feel like I'm getting hooked, so I think there is one in my future. I'm just curious as to why Nickel is always used to to create the series and parallel connections, and not copper.
Nickel is used for a combination of functional and economic reasons. It has good conductivity, low resistivity, high corrosion resistance, is easily welded/soldered and is cheaper than copper.
Most folks don't have access to a spot welder like that. Have you ever heard of someone using electrically conductive adhesives such as this epoxy? www.mgchemicals.com/products/adhesives/electrically-conductive-adhesives/silver-conductive-epoxy-8331
You are awesome. Can you make another one with 52v (48v) 16 or similar ah? That would be very helpful. Another thing, if you do not own a spotwelder, can you use soldering instead?
It's possible to solder cells, but it's not a good method because it irreparably damages the cells, and can even lead to dangerous fires from cell overheating if it isn't done well. You will see people doing it on youtube, but it's not a good idea. I'm actually working on a kit to allow people that don't have a spot welder to build a battery. Stay tuned in the next week or so and you'll hear about it!
You really are a professional ! Also a good teachter. Thx for your time and affort. One question though. I want to upgrade my bike to 36v. But i am not sure if the controller can handle 36v. how can i test that ? thx :)
Im very confused if each individual cell is 3.7 V , to be a 48 v battery you would need 12 Cells ? Also imagine each individual cell gives you 3400 maH = 3,4 a H , ( 12 cells * 3.4 ah = 40 ah ) i dont get it , can you please make this clear to me .
In you trailer you show a eBike Performance sheet /simulator, is this a battery capacity test using your light bulb discharge or another tool ? I need to test capacity on old eBike battery packs accurately.
No that's the amazing motor simulator over at www.ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html They've put a TON of work into that tool. It's quite awesome, I recommend checking it out and playing around with it!
good pm or am,i have ebike in qatar but not allowing to deliver battery in here,how many baterry i need to the 48v 1000w,pls help to build this battery pack.tnx and god bless.
Each has their own advantages and disadvantages. For most of us, it doesn't make a huge a difference. Nowadays manufacturers are producing mostly hybrid chemistries with small additions to the traditional electrolyte mix, meaning that it's harder to say "All ICR batteries this..." and "IMR batteries that...." I mostly use Panasonic NCR batteries now though.
Hii..I make li ion battery for 600w motor for using 2500mah li ion cell(13 in parallel & 15 in series) and 13s 35Amp BMS but when I charge full then this battery gives 56v via BMS and I put into bike then my bike ride is aprox 9km and then the battery voltage is down suddenly 26v but when I checked without BMS voltage of battery, is 52v. Then I plug in charge battery via BMS that time the battery doesn't charge. Can you give the solution of this problem ? Please.
Hi Mica. I really hope you can help me out . I have a 36v nominal-14AH- 10S4P- 40 X 18650 cells total battery pack with a BMS, from a skateboard. Because I do not have a spot welder or the proper battery charger for a 36v pack, I have decided to dismantle the complete pack and use the individual cells for other projects. I have been scouring the internet for days now but cannot find anyone who dismantles a pack only guys building packs. I have disconnected the BMS from the pack but I don’t know how I am suppose the disconnect the nickel strips because it is in parallel and series. Is there a specific sequence that I need to follow or can I just rip them off ?????? Pls be as specific as you can as I am not used to a pack in this type of configuration, when I first thought that I could just rip off one off the nickel strips it sparked a little and got a little hot, so I stopped and started trying to find more info on the internet and found you. Sure hope you have the time to help me out. Thanks Gerry
im using 12v-12amp 4 pcs for need the power 48v 1000w.to work the motor.they are heavy more space to use it.kindly inform me what i doing how to build battery pack.thank you god bless you.
I'm having problems with strips popping off. I have hand probes to repair it, but they absolutely SUCK. Even at full amperage and pulse, it doesn't get hot enough fast enough to do anything. Any suggestions?
That's an odd problem to have, especially with your welder turned up so high. I'm guessing that's a problem with the welder, but I'd recommend cleaning the cell ends and nickel strips with acetone first just to make sure there isn't an oil layer that is causing a problem.
hello friend, I build a battery with bms and 10 series 5cells with used laptop cells(3.7 volt manteined after 15 days), I have a 750-watt motor 36 volt,. after using it 100 meters, the thermal protection of the bms interrupts the current. ?which amperage do you recommend for this motore??? Thanks friend
10x 3.6 = 36volts. I think your batteries do not have a good discharge rate and the bms cuts out. Try finding better batteries. 750w needs at least 20amp bms. 5 batteries in parallel needs 4amps per cell. I think your batteries are not up to that power. Try taking it slower instead of faster.
do we really need to solder every cell in series for increase in voltage? wont the result be the same just by attaching 1 negative and 1 positive at each end respectively???
Put them on a charger. And see if they charge properly. Should be full at 4.22 Then discharge them using the charger two the same level. Put them in the pack use your charger again to charge each individual battery two and make sure they are balanced ( unbalanced battery's will explode so being different charge values is fine as long as they charge and discharge at similar speeds
Also each cell should be individually wired to the bms ( and you should by an bms rated for the right size of the new battery and the amount of cells your using.
Nice footage. Great job. Battery suggestion please. I have this motor - 24v 500w 4800rpm. The (S) and the (P) I am looking for. I wish to use The latest Panasonic 18650's. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
For 24V you'll need 7s, which is 29.4V hot off the charger. The parallel number is basically up to you. In one of my other videos I built a 7S2P (5.8AH) using Panasonic PF cells, but thats about as small as you can realistically go. 7S4P would be even better. Panasonic has a number of different 18650 cells to choose from.
I'm trying to boost my 2 year old lg mj1 48v pack to 72v. I have 10p13s. I was planning on rearranging them to be 6p18s then add new cells to make it 10p or 12p. Assuming 10s, I would be adding 4 rows of 18. This should keep each cell group with the same capacity. I am told internal resistance stays fairly constant with age on these mj1 cells. I wonder if it would be better to just add new cells at the end of the series to avoid even a little internal resistance difference. It seems like that might put less strain on the pack, even if the original cells drain first. I've done a lot of googling and the best answer so far is build a new pack with $2000 worth of cells and junk. Informed opinions anyone?
hi...I have a ebike that i would like to rebuild. it's a 36v. bike that the batteries need replacing, I'm thinking to bump up the batteries to 48volt leaving the existing motor. Will that damage the motor or just give more power and longer ride ?
yes it will be fine. you would have to go over a thousand volts probably closer to 10 thousand to blow out the field windings...to figure out if your motor can handle your new battery you can multiply the current ( the amp hours) by the voltage ( which you mentioned) to find your wattage, and your motor should have a wattage rating at least, so if your battery is too powerful you can adjust your controller to limit the current so that the wattage is within an acceptable range...
BTW Nice Video, well presented, safety addressed etc, etc, and yes we will all continue to modify our batteries and bikes, why on earth not, innovation is what keeps us alive.
Hey Alan, the BMS I used is listed in the video description, but that's a 10S. I believe the same vendor has a 13S, which is what you'd need for your 48V pack. I'm not sure what you mean about setting up the values. The BMS comes programmed from the factory. Or do you mean how do you choose the right specs?
ahh so i'd have to double up the series links for a 30q pack if i read your reply correctly. im planning 12s7p of 30q to replace my worn multistar lipos to feed my mxus 3T
hello micah because it does not leave my bike in the garage published 2 times .... still very good if you are my idol I would like to meet you in person ... you're invited to my house I will I host in Italy so I reveal some of the tricks hahaha joke thanks hello ...
thanks for the video. I see a video that put a separator between each cell group, before connecting the cell group in series. Do we need to put a separator(like a fish paper) between each cell group, to provide better protection against short circuit,? please see this link to understand more about my question. th-cam.com/video/adY-S8AH_Jc/w-d-xo.html
1. I'd use a linemans splice any time you need to connect two wires. VERY strong and you can make it much more tidy, no little sharp edges and such.
2. Just use some heavy gauge solid copper wire for those "main" wire + and - leads you've attached across (starting at 8:38)
Thank you. I missed your tutorials.
This guy is excellent.. I would pay him for the VALUABLE INFO. Up to now I was in total confusion how voltage is decided! How Ah capacity calculated! I read his article "How To Build A DIY Electric Bicycle Lithium Battery From 18650 Cells" HE MAKES IT SOOOO EASY.. ya his video clearfied about connecting "bms"! I can even now calculate the theoretical weight ( I have one as sample) the rest is in my brand new busted 60v 20ah! Batt. I bought for 1500$..:( sniff) some misleading utube said u can charge lithium using other lithium (not true)! God bless u.. I have a friend just like u.. but he's gone on to become"stealth ebikes" agent for Middle East! May u prosper, sir!
10 day's ago i didn't know what is a wire! Now i learned much so im gonna make my own e bike with my own batery!
I bought his book.. it's in amazon some $15..he definitely deserves an acknowledgement, (thank u)!!;) may u, prosper sir.. ;)
Hi. Thanks for the how to video.
I was wondering how you can adjust to increase the voltage and or current of the hub motor in the controller?
Won’t this fry the electronics of the Control Display, even if the motor can handle the higher voltage?
Have you ever thought about making a Tesla type powerwall battery for use with solar for your home? I think it's relatively the same as this but with more batteries. This is the project I'm going to tackle next.
I'm sorry if this sounds stupid but I just bought a 36v 15ah battery 10s5p and the cells are 3.7v and 2600mah so am I right in thinking I only have a 13ah battery the 5p x 2.600mah = 13ah? and is this a marketing thing or have I been mislead, Thanks for any help. Brannen
very professionally done and informational video good job and thanks
Hello, why you don't use polymer li-lion battery for your assembly. it has bigger capacity, so you no need paralleling the cells as increasing the capacity.
Well documented tutorial
Thanks!
I read somewhere it's better to put balance leads, with cell monitors, then using BMS, wot do U think
Great video.
Question, my battery is 48v 20ah. My controller is 48v 20ah. Manufacturer upgrade from 20ah b/c none in stock.
Will this combo work? Heard it could damage battery. I use PAS too when riding.
Hope you can help. Thanks.
/Bklyn👑
looked like you just gave birth to a brand new real baby.
Hi, I have a 60v 30ah 21700 cell battery that’s showing signs of sag. Is there a way to reset it?
Very very useful! can you give us an advice if the pack is used for a period of time. what would be the permitted difference between old cells of the pack and new cells we add? thanks!
If you mean voltage difference, it needs to be almost no difference. This is easy to achieve though, I just discharged the 24V battery until it matched the cells. For cell life, it's not super critical, but you'll be limited by the weaker cells. Basically, if your existing battery is a year old, and you add brand new cells in series, you aren't going to add any lifetime to the pack. It will still basically die when it was going to die. If you were adding cells in parallel to increase the capacity, you would want to try to use cells with as much capacity, if not more. If you use cells with less capacity, added in parallel, then you'll end up with a lower capacity pack overall because those cells will drain quickly and rob the other cells of their capacity.
Basically it is exactly as you assumed. My pack is a year old and I want to increase the voltage from 36 to 48 adding cells with the same configuration. I was just wondering if connecting used cells with brand new cells would cause any other problem apart from performance. I guess from your answer there isn't something important to worry about..
Yea, it won't be an issue from the safety side of things. It's just a longevity thing. If your pack was originally going to last 3 years, it's still only going to have 2 years of life left in it after you add the new cells. But functionally speaking, adding new cells is just fine. This pack was about 6 months old when I did this upgrade.
Great Job on That. Thanks for Sharing.
You can hold down nickel strips with magnets while you weld them
Hello Micah, while you were connecting the positive discharge red wire into the 10th parallel group, you stripped the whole wire to meet the length of the parallel group. But is it possible to solder the discharge wire at just one spot of the whole parallel group? Will this option generate more heat in the discharge wires? Thanks.
nice one....
Wow, thanks! That means a lot coming from you guys!
I'm new to the eBike concept but I feel like I'm getting hooked, so I think there is one in my future. I'm just curious as to why Nickel is always used to to create the series and parallel connections, and not copper.
Nickel is used for a combination of functional and economic reasons. It has good conductivity, low resistivity, high corrosion resistance, is easily welded/soldered and is cheaper than copper.
Most folks don't have access to a spot welder like that. Have you ever heard of someone using electrically conductive adhesives such as this epoxy? www.mgchemicals.com/products/adhesives/electrically-conductive-adhesives/silver-conductive-epoxy-8331
Very nice video
You are awesome. Can you make another one with 52v (48v) 16 or similar ah? That would be very helpful. Another thing, if you do not own a spotwelder, can you use soldering instead?
It's possible to solder cells, but it's not a good method because it irreparably damages the cells, and can even lead to dangerous fires from cell overheating if it isn't done well. You will see people doing it on youtube, but it's not a good idea. I'm actually working on a kit to allow people that don't have a spot welder to build a battery. Stay tuned in the next week or so and you'll hear about it!
You really are a professional ! Also a good teachter. Thx for your time and affort. One question though. I want to upgrade my bike to 36v. But i am not sure if the controller can handle 36v. how can i test that ? thx :)
Controller will handle it
Im very confused if each individual cell is 3.7 V , to be a 48 v battery you would need 12 Cells ? Also imagine each individual cell gives you 3400 maH = 3,4 a H , ( 12 cells * 3.4 ah = 40 ah ) i dont get it , can you please make this clear to me .
you put the new battery without balance the voltage?
If I have a 48v 500w motor how bad or good of an ideal would be putting 2x48v lithium’s batteries in series or paralell to it ??
Parallel is fine, you will increase riding distance. In series would make it a 96v battery and blow the controller and motor.
ALSO, these tesla batteries. Will they work?
In you trailer you show a eBike Performance sheet /simulator, is this a battery capacity test using your light bulb discharge or another tool ? I need to test capacity on old eBike battery packs accurately.
No that's the amazing motor simulator over at www.ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html
They've put a TON of work into that tool. It's quite awesome, I recommend checking it out and playing around with it!
can't we just use a boost converter (of proper amperage and maximum continious power) and call it a day?
By Series the voltage increasing. How you calculate 20 Ah?
good pm or am,i have ebike in qatar but not allowing to deliver battery in here,how many baterry i need to the 48v 1000w,pls help to build this battery pack.tnx and god bless.
I noticed you are using ICR 18650 batteries. Is there an advantage to using these over IMR or INR batteries?
Each has their own advantages and disadvantages. For most of us, it doesn't make a huge a difference. Nowadays manufacturers are producing mostly hybrid chemistries with small additions to the traditional electrolyte mix, meaning that it's harder to say "All ICR batteries this..." and "IMR batteries that...." I mostly use Panasonic NCR batteries now though.
Hii..I make li ion battery for 600w motor for using 2500mah li ion cell(13 in parallel & 15 in series) and 13s 35Amp BMS but when I charge full then this battery gives 56v via BMS and I put into bike then my bike ride is aprox 9km and then the battery voltage is down suddenly 26v but when I checked without BMS voltage of battery, is 52v. Then I plug in charge battery via BMS that time the battery doesn't charge.
Can you give the solution of this problem ? Please.
How much does an batterie pack like this cost ?
Hi Mica. I really hope you can help me out . I have a 36v nominal-14AH- 10S4P- 40 X 18650 cells total battery pack with a BMS, from a skateboard.
Because I do not have a spot welder or the proper battery charger for a 36v pack, I have decided to dismantle the complete pack and use the individual cells for other projects.
I have been scouring the internet for days now but cannot find anyone who dismantles a pack only guys building packs.
I have disconnected the BMS from the pack but I don’t know how I am suppose the disconnect the nickel strips because it is in parallel and series. Is there a specific sequence that I need to follow or can I just rip them off ??????
Pls be as specific as you can as I am not used to a pack in this type of configuration, when I first thought that I could just rip off one off the nickel strips it sparked a little and got a little hot, so I stopped and started trying to find more info on the internet and found you.
Sure hope you have the time to help me out.
Thanks
Gerry
im using 12v-12amp 4 pcs for need the power 48v 1000w.to work the motor.they are heavy more space to use it.kindly inform me what i doing how to build battery pack.thank you god bless you.
Where did you get or do you sell the tri battery connectors?
Hi I have a question, i have 2200mah battery’s and 2600mah battery’s , can i use them together in one pack?
yes
Can you increase the voltage od the battery pack by adding external set of battery trough the charging port?
no.
This looks intimidating
where did you get the spot welder?
I'm having problems with strips popping off. I have hand probes to repair it, but they absolutely SUCK. Even at full amperage and pulse, it doesn't get hot enough fast enough to do anything. Any suggestions?
That's an odd problem to have, especially with your welder turned up so high. I'm guessing that's a problem with the welder, but I'd recommend cleaning the cell ends and nickel strips with acetone first just to make sure there isn't an oil layer that is causing a problem.
hello friend, I build a battery with bms and 10 series 5cells with used laptop cells(3.7 volt manteined after 15 days), I have a 750-watt motor 36 volt,. after using it 100 meters, the thermal protection of the bms interrupts the current. ?which amperage do you recommend for this motore??? Thanks friend
10x 3.6 = 36volts. I think your batteries do not have a good discharge rate and the bms cuts out. Try finding better batteries. 750w needs at least 20amp bms. 5 batteries in parallel needs 4amps per cell. I think your batteries are not up to that power. Try taking it slower instead of faster.
can a 500 w wheel 36v also run on 48 v ?
do we really need to solder every cell in series for increase in voltage?
wont the result be the same just by attaching 1 negative and 1 positive at each end respectively???
How would the voltage travel if you didnt make connections for it xD
What is the max voltage difference of each cell ?
I got cells ranging from 4.1 to 4.2V
Put them on a charger. And see if they charge properly. Should be full at 4.22
Then discharge them using the charger two the same level. Put them in the pack use your charger again to charge each individual battery two and make sure they are balanced ( unbalanced battery's will explode so being different charge values is fine as long as they charge and discharge at similar speeds
Also each cell should be individually wired to the bms ( and you should by an bms rated for the right size of the new battery and the amount of cells your using.
Hi body if it is not too late what's the background song please, I like it.
Where did you get the 24v 20ah battery? how much is it? Thanks.
It's a battery I built beforehand for another project.
Uhm.. Can i upgrade my 72v battery to 500v one?
Nice footage. Great job. Battery suggestion please. I have this motor - 24v 500w 4800rpm. The (S) and the (P) I am looking for. I wish to use The latest Panasonic 18650's. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
For 24V you'll need 7s, which is 29.4V hot off the charger. The parallel number is basically up to you. In one of my other videos I built a 7S2P (5.8AH) using Panasonic PF cells, but thats about as small as you can realistically go. 7S4P would be even better. Panasonic has a number of different 18650 cells to choose from.
EbikeSchool.com Thanks for your answer. You use 3.80v as your max charge. Why not 4.2v or 4.0v?
I'm trying to boost my 2 year old lg mj1 48v pack to 72v. I have 10p13s. I was planning on rearranging them to be 6p18s then add new cells to make it 10p or 12p. Assuming 10s, I would be adding 4 rows of 18. This should keep each cell group with the same capacity. I am told internal resistance stays fairly constant with age on these mj1 cells. I wonder if it would be better to just add new cells at the end of the series to avoid even a little internal resistance difference. It seems like that might put less strain on the pack, even if the original cells drain first. I've done a lot of googling and the best answer so far is build a new pack with $2000 worth of cells and junk. Informed opinions anyone?
Make sure you get a new bms
They are like 2 quid and this guy didn't mention them (from the way your tslling about the cells im sure you know enough to know the rest
hi...I have a ebike that i would like to rebuild. it's a 36v. bike that the batteries need replacing, I'm thinking to bump up the batteries to 48volt leaving the existing motor. Will that damage the motor or just give more power and longer ride ?
i think its better for you to check the data sheet of your motor and see how much it can handle.
yes it will be fine. you would have to go over a thousand volts probably closer to 10 thousand to blow out the field windings...to figure out if your motor can handle your new battery you can multiply the current ( the amp hours) by the voltage ( which you mentioned) to find your wattage, and your motor should have a wattage rating at least, so if your battery is too powerful you can adjust your controller to limit the current so that the wattage is within an acceptable range...
you forgot to put the link for the connectors
Hi which BMS did you use ? I m looking of a 48v (13 cell pack version) How do you setup the BMS values ?
BTW Nice Video, well presented, safety addressed etc, etc, and yes we will all continue to modify our batteries and bikes, why on earth not, innovation is what keeps us alive.
Hey Alan, the BMS I used is listed in the video description, but that's a 10S. I believe the same vendor has a 13S, which is what you'd need for your 48V pack. I'm not sure what you mean about setting up the values. The BMS comes programmed from the factory. Or do you mean how do you choose the right specs?
how many amps can 0.15 8mm strips handle?
Best to keep it them under 5A, but they can do 10A max. When I'm doing 30A batteries, for example, I use 6 strips so they all stay at 5A max.
ahh so i'd have to double up the series links for a 30q pack if i read your reply correctly. im planning 12s7p of 30q to replace my worn multistar lipos to feed my mxus 3T
Why are you paying almost $10 per cell (8pcs@$23.98 + Shipping@$47.67 = $71.65 USD)
Hmm, they were free shipping for me, bringing the total down to below $3 per cell. I guess that free shipping isn't available to your location.
So dangerous battry
Ebike owners need to know how to go from 36v to 48, well I do :(
That is NOT leia 😭😭
Mr Rogers of lipos
hello micah because it does not leave my bike in the garage published 2 times .... still very good if you are my idol I would like to meet you in person ... you're invited to my house I will I host in Italy so I reveal some of the tricks hahaha joke thanks hello ...
Is your bike in the garage now? I added some more that had gotten stuck in the queue on the site.
thanks for the video. I see a video that put a separator between each cell group, before connecting the cell group in series.
Do we need to put a separator(like a fish paper) between each cell group, to provide better protection against short circuit,? please see this link to understand more about my question. th-cam.com/video/adY-S8AH_Jc/w-d-xo.html