You're absolutely right with your initial comments, it's great content like this that's building you trust and a loyal following. FWIW, I recently purchased a Vruzend kit and a bunch of other items from your online store because of your contribution to the ebike community and your dedication to quality content. My first ebike build went very smoothly, thanks to all the info I learned from your videos and your book. Thanks!
Knowing that all the content on this channel is top notch and honest is what we like. I think several people would be willing to support the channel with donations as you provide great info to the ebike community.
As someone who just built an ebike, I really appreciate good unbias reviews like this! Also, I strongly support having well-made ads in youtube videos! The only reason that people generally hate ads is that they are frequently done poorly (just keep each ad original and there is no issue ... meaning please don't just re-use them)
I would have taken the weight of the cell into account if I found that they used nickle coated Steele. 18650 should be 18 mm x65 mm and have a weight of between 41 and 45 grams obviously the heavier the cell the more the capacity. also if you had pealed a cell cap you could have checked for a protection circuit and venting in the top of the battery. This is another strong indicator as to the quality of the battery and lastly hook the battery up and check its discharge rate. Thank you so much for all your hard work. I have learned so much by watching your videos. You have brought so much useful information and done so much for us guys that hack around at home. Have a great day and please keep making lots of videos. As far as the length of the video goes the longer the more information.
Thanks! As someone intending to build a custom battery housing (and then have someone better informed solder and wrap the cells) this was very useful. One note: you say the cells are going to get really hot when discharging at the highest rate. However, the 2C reading is rated for -20C...0C. If we're like -10C, overheating is not going to be the first and foremost problem unless you really somehow manage to keep the max load on on continuous basis. On subzero temps it's usually different things than overheating that dominate the risks.
I really appreciate your honest and comprehensive reviews, not like some others who only look at the most obvious your nickel test , awesome and simple.
You're correct. I come here for great technical knowledge just like you provided in this video. The nickel test, the explanation of the terminal thickness on the power wires... I will use that for sure. Micah is my only ebike subscription on youtube (i'm a 2wd m365 builder)
I make up the story you have no problem being factual rather than coerced. It's easy to fall victim to a false sense of self (ego) but I bet you would do a fantastic job reviewing the various products and bikes offered you. You also carry a sense of kindness and that would benefit viewers seeking reliable and solid products. Thank you.
Content like this is why I subbed ages ago, and why I bought your books on battery building and ebikes. Practical information delivered in a concise, easy-to-digest format.
Great video. I’m a NZ physics teacher and am happy to share your video because it is accurate, paced well and with great visual reference. Top marks, and many thanks, nga mihi nui!
Amazing video! Great to see you reviewing this with great care and honesty... Would love to see a little experiment if you fancy that: what happens with your thermal camera when you pull 30 amps from this battery; how much better does it get if you replace the discharge bits of nickel plated steel with pure nickel...
this is why i subbed this channel. useful information, unbiased opinions, hands on examples of how to understand what, and why. you never fail to deliver on the goods.
Thank you for this VERY enlightening examination of a bike battery. My E-CELLS Super MonarchCrown 2 wheel drive E-MTB has two SAMSUNG batteries, 17Ah front and 14.5 Ah rear (under the rear rack) Dave Cleveland, the designer/owner of E-CELLS did a very good job of sourcing high quality parts for a great price ($5,100.) Chinese motors, Japanese gearing, Korean batteries, Thai Vee tires, Taiwanese aluminum frame, American rear shock, etc.
I'm so glad I'm watching this video again. I have a couple cells that are not fully charging. When I took the battery out of the sleeve (I have a ancheer step through, no longer available on Amazon ☹️) they hot glued the wires and hot glued it to stay in the sleeve. It was a fight getting it out! I removed it very carefully without pinching any wires. Just waiting for my money to come in so I can order a couple parts. Spot welder and heat shrink wrap that you recommend in one of your videos.
Very good video. I do not mind longer videos with great content. Thank you for making this video. I’ve been contemplating on converting my existing bike to electric, and your videos have been a great help.
again you blow my mind with the how easy you make it all look. it's actually quite encouragingso old high school dropout like me becoming quite the electrical engineer thanks to your TH-cam channel. if I had copies of your books the future would be Limitless.
Hi Micah, as usual excellent and very informative video, thanks! The only thing I miss is that the cells are SUPPOSED to be 2500mAh from the technical sheet but this should be checked to really know if this is a good quality battery. It would have been nice if you had been able to charge/discharge 1 cell and see if we are close to theoretical specs (or not...)
Thanks for doing the breakdown on the battery, I learned a lot! I had wondered how there could be such great differences in battery costs from different vendors and manufacturers.
I heard your book is the best thing to read for anyone wanting to build their own electric bike I'm here for this wonderful knowledge thank you for all the help man
I learned so much about cycle battery design and technology from this video. Excellently produced with superb audio, lighting, focus and video-photography. Many thanks.
You do seem quite knowledgeable , I like your style Also happy that you do not usually use factory or other providers to do the free advertizing ,that usually is redundant Thanks and keep up the good work
Thanks for taking care with clear and intelligent explanations. I appreciate your attention to detail and you clearly value good quality design. I look forward to learning more from your videos and articles. Thanks again!
Hi James here from SC. This is a great website, very informative helpful and complete. I have an e-bike, three wheel. I turned it into e-bike, my first attempt. The company I bought from is gone, my battery is dead, so I learned an important lesson. I can't find a battery replacement so I'm going to build myself. That's how I found you. I'm going to build one no weld with one of your kits. It's 36 v, but I'm going to add more batteries for more distance and you have all the info and materials I'll need. I'll be looking up where to get the kit. I'm so happy I found you!!
A longer video is still good, if it's all actual content. Good work. You're creating a channel with quality information that I think I'll be able to trust.
Im thrilled to see that they have some balance leads in there. Being an RC car guy just getting into big scooters i was unsure if the manufactures would cheap and and just do a fast charge everytime with no balance leads.
Very educational video , I learned so much. Just minutes before watching this information I was looking for a second battery for my e-bike. This helped me make up my mind.. Thank you David Hankins Ozark Mo.
The electrical resistance of Nickel is about 70% of that of Iron, so the difference isn't very big. There are plenty of cross sections between cells in series, so it wouldn't be a problem at all. You could have actually measured the width and the thickness of the strips and do some calculations instead of using words like 'I guess' and 'probably'. The point that worries me is the (dual layer) strips of the first and last row. Furthermore, you didn't measure the capacity of the cells. You went for the datasheet. If there is one thing you cannot trust it's the specs of Chinese cells. They are sold to up to 9999 mAh which is nearly 3 times of what is even possible at the moment. Most of them perform way below their (fake) specs.
Those are really only the UltraFire cells. If you get branded cells that weigh the right amount, you can be confident they have decent capacity. Internal resistance on the other hand...
At about 6.25, remember that the max current is quickly derated based on the temperature INSIDE the CELL...not the temperature in the case or general environment. So in most cases if one tries to take it up to the max current without derating for the cell's internal temperature one would quickly have a possible explosion, fire, and/or other catastrophic cell failure.
Thank you. This is giving. I admired that. If I had to choose a book would be the lithium batteries. Salut and best wishes. This is TH-cam woth watching. Generosity and simplicity.
Your analyses are at such a higher level than I've yet to see regarding these batteries. I think I purchased a quality ebike (2019 Cannondale Synapse Neo with a Bosch system) but I'm sure the technology is so much better 2 years later! Thanks for putting your knowledge out there..
Great job, you just made a very informative and important job checking that battery. I've checked my myself many batteries and what I found in some cases was very small BMS'S with small heat sinks. And all bad. I think that if BMS'S are too small they won't last to long.
I really enjoyed this video! 👍😁 I’m just getting started with ebikes and am burning up the “airwaves” so to speak in educating my self. I have a nice class II ebike that was fairly inexpensive. I use it as a commuter bike to go back and forth to work. It’s called a VIVI
Is there a E-bike battery brand you recommend, one that meets all items on your wish list? I've purchased two different brands, one leaked (failed) and the other doesn't seem to work as advertised (drains rather quickly). Just curious since they are not cheap.
Convert to using a outdoor power equipment battery platform depending on your voltage and Ah setup. Lack of consistent quality control and “buyer beware “ should be the exception for batteries used for transportation, not the norm. Ego 56 volt is perfect platform for 48 to 52 volt controller and motor. 3 year warranty. And thermal management done right. How did this standard black plastic brick with cells jammed in there with no airflow become the ebike norm?
Excellent video. TH-cam is an outstanding teaching source and this video is no exception. I do have a question though. This battery is of medium quality and is exactly the type of battery I have on my ebike right down to the voltage and amp hours. My battery is weakening after only 2 years. I have a 500 watt motor on mine so should I be shopping for something like a lg battery? If that battery in your video retails at $299 something tells me a premium replacement is gonna be in the $500 range. Which route do you suggest I go. Heck I only paid 700 for my whole bike and the replacement battery will almost be as much lol.
I'd run an electrical test first. Could save a lot of my time. At the end of the video you still don't know if the battery pack can in fact deliver the advertised Ah. In addition to the visual inspection, I'd have to use a battery tester before concluding it could be a quality battery. A "constant current" battery tester for up to 200V and upto 180W total dissipation is available for less than US$40 and can rapidly give you pretty good insight into the Ah the battery can deliver in reality...not just as claimed by the seller. I'd run the electrical test first. It's a fast, easy and definitive way to tell if the battery is even capable of delivering anything near its claimed specs. It may take 3 or 4 charge/discharge cycles. Only then, if it passes that testing would I worry about taking it apart for visual examination of build and component quality. Running the electrical test first could save a LOT of my time if the battery is low quality, and it generally should be safer, too. BATTERY PACK PERFORMANCE ISSUES: There are batteries out there that use counterfeit lithium cells, or even intentionally low-quality cells, so even if they are marked like they came from one of the known high-quality manufactures (Samsung, Panasonic, etc ####mAh rated cells) the cells themselves may in fact not be from that company nor provide the claimed mAh rating. Even the battery pack manufacturers may unintentionally get counterfeit cells once in awhile which can cause major underperformance. These are common issues for example in USB powerbanks. Example: one powerbank brand CLAIMS 10,000Ah capacity while using what turn out to really be 800mAh cells in a 6p1s 18650 configuration...which could at MOST rightly claim 6x800mAh=4800mAh (yet they are LABELED as 1800mAh NCR/Sanyo/Panasonic cells which they clearly are not)The same issues exists in many battery packs for many different uses (including e-bike packs) available on eBay and Amazon.
@@hchalmoepas6544 I can't recommend any specific ones, but there are some custom battery pack assemblers that have very good reviews on ebay. There are a number of individuals and companies you can find recommended in electricbike.com/forum You can find some sources recommended by DIYers that can provide just what you're asking for. The generally provide good battery packs because of the feedback on the forum. I've found the group very helpful and knowledgeable.
Yep exactly I seen so many falsely advertised and using junk, or fake cells. I finally got one that was as advertised and using LG IMR 18650 cells 2850mAH and tested on discharge pretty close, or slightly above, so definitely genuine and was cheaper then this pack in this video. I was actually surprised as was expecting Chinese FST cells, or one of the 3 common Chinese cells they use. A few packs even have had where BMS was miswired on discharge side and literally could drain battery down to zero as they bypassed the low voltage cutoff on the BMS? Don’t get me started on those packs claiming to have Panasonic cells using Sanyo and not the GA cells, so technically not Panasonic, or not even using neither and lying completely and charging $400 plus for the pack. I guess they figured out most won’t open the pack?
Great video, lots of insight. Just saying if you want to do an ad at the end of your video and you are clear what is content and what is an ad I have no problem with that. Obviously this is your channel and you do what you think is best.
Thanks for the informative video. I am a bicycle tech just starting with ebikes. I picked up a defunct ebike at a garage sale, and It seems that the battery is bad, so I am looking at inexpensive replacement or refurbish options. Your video has given me some vital information to use when selecting a replacement.
Very interesting. I have a Bosch mid drive system...I bought it in 2014 in Europe....I still run the original battery...I remember reading about a fire in NY city where a person was charging multiple batteries and they caught fire....I have a simple rule of thumb....I never leave my battery charging when I am not present....
Thanks, really enjoyed your informative video. I've recently purchased an Emove 30A e bike and I believe they use LG batteries. Hope they are a quality build.
Love your videos. I'm learning so much. Weird observation. You handle the knife like a warehouse guy. You are the first TH-camr to open boxes like I do. Anyway. Have a good day.
I find all of this stuff SUPER fascinating, I always try avoid batteries because I thought they were too easy to mess up but this seems almost straight forward. Maybe I will make an ebike
Your videos are very informative. I was hoping to see part 3 of the e-motorcycle build but I guess that is in the future. Keep up the good work. By the way. Motorcycle screws especially those connected to the engine are impact screws and you need to use a impact screwdriver to get them off without stripping the heads. In expensive tool but essential for motorcycle work.
There's another way to find out how good your battery is, without taking a hacksaw and dremmel to it, use a larger controller and motor for the battery and see how the BMS manages it
Ok, I'm subscribed! I'm beginning my research with the intention of building an electric motorcycle. I know virtually nothing yet, but I was impressed with your presentation, and will be looking at more of your videos, and considering reading your books. Thanks for the quality presentation
very good. cheers. manufactuerer quality batteries are expensive and we all are thinking cheaper batteries are fine. your inspection and conclusion throws this out of the window. good work.
Hi Micah, great video, I'm trying to get up to speed on these batteries. I am repairing a 48 volt Lectric battery. It has 52 Lishen cells (LS LR 1865 SK 19/66). They are mounted end to end so the configuration is confusing to me. I have a background in electronics but when I went to school we spent a little of time on vacuum tubes. This battery quit after 19 months and 800 miles. We bought two bikes together and the second is great. I can see the bad cell, but haven't taken them apart to measure each cell.
Fair and balanced, thanks! I trust your expertise so much I bought the Verund battery kit and some good 'top five' cells. Can't wait to learn hands-on!
That's an excellent review! You examined every important points including common CONS that cheap battery have. Btw, sometime when a parallel group have the main positive or negative wire soldered to one end of a parallel group, there chance that the opposite polarity have a serie link to the other end, which conpensate for current balance.. but in that design where serie parallel connections are in majority in "W" there is les chances. Also i would have been curious to see if teh ON/Off switch is connected to the BMS SW1 input.. usually located close to the external temp sensor connections... in fact BMS with switch input and temp sensor are usually input that are connected in serie.. and when there is no external switch used, the connections on teh PCBare simply jumped together to close the loop and enable the BMS FETS.
Hi great video. I got here becase recently the battery of my cargo e-bike stop working and i got curious about the internal construction of these batteries. Well, i see that in my battery i 30A fuse is gone, the ba,ttery case providex a separate cover that give you access to the fuse. I wonder if it is safe to replace the fuse or it is better to check if other electronics got damage. The thing is that it is not so easy to open the whole case.
Do you still have the battery pack? God told me that some of your battery cells are losing charge and the rest will go bad soon. God told me it has nothing to do with the fuse. You'll have to build a new battery pack.
A very instructive video, thank you for sharing. What do you think about the so called "Tesla fuse method" (using the legs of a 1/8 w resistor as a fuse between parallel groups). Thank you again. Regards from Colombia
Man, this video was well over 25 minutes in the first cut. Even after hacking it down it's still a beast. I hope you guys don't mind the long ones!
What is the highest watt motor and battery that I can buy and still be a moped in Pennsylvania.
There's some good videos over an hour and no worries at all.
It takes time to explain everything shortly. 👍
It's OK by me! sometimes I watch them twice and take notes. Great info!
Not at all... great video!!! Thanks
It has the necessary time to know how to inspect a battery!
Can you show us the other methods to know if the nickel strip have steel?
You're absolutely right with your initial comments, it's great content like this that's building you trust and a loyal following. FWIW, I recently purchased a Vruzend kit and a bunch of other items from your online store because of your contribution to the ebike community and your dedication to quality content. My first ebike build went very smoothly, thanks to all the info I learned from your videos and your book. Thanks!
Knowing that all the content on this channel is top notch and honest is what we like. I think several people would be willing to support the channel with donations as you provide great info to the ebike community.
As someone who just built an ebike, I really appreciate good unbias reviews like this! Also, I strongly support having well-made ads in youtube videos! The only reason that people generally hate ads is that they are frequently done poorly (just keep each ad original and there is no issue ... meaning please don't just re-use them)
I would have taken the weight of the cell into account if I found that they used nickle coated Steele. 18650 should be 18 mm x65 mm and have a weight of between 41 and 45 grams obviously the heavier the cell the more the capacity. also if you had pealed a cell cap you could have checked for a protection circuit and venting in the top of the battery. This is another strong indicator as to the quality of the battery and lastly hook the battery up and check its discharge rate. Thank you so much for all your hard work. I have learned so much by watching your videos. You have brought so much useful information and done so much for us guys that hack around at home. Have a great day and please keep making lots of videos. As far as the length of the video goes the longer the more information.
Thanks!
As someone intending to build a custom battery housing (and then have someone better informed solder and wrap the cells) this was very useful.
One note: you say the cells are going to get really hot when discharging at the highest rate.
However, the 2C reading is rated for -20C...0C.
If we're like -10C, overheating is not going to be the first and foremost problem unless you really somehow manage to keep the max load on on continuous basis.
On subzero temps it's usually different things than overheating that dominate the risks.
I really appreciate your honest and comprehensive reviews, not like some others who only look at the most obvious your nickel test , awesome and simple.
You're correct. I come here for great technical knowledge just like you provided in this video. The nickel test, the explanation of the terminal thickness on the power wires... I will use that for sure. Micah is my only ebike subscription on youtube (i'm a 2wd m365 builder)
Awesome . you showed us the simple ways of checking the battery quality check . thanks for this video.
I make up the story you have no problem being factual rather than coerced. It's easy to fall victim to a false sense of self (ego) but I bet you would do a fantastic job reviewing the various products and bikes offered you. You also carry a sense of kindness and that would benefit viewers seeking reliable and solid products. Thank you.
Content like this is why I subbed ages ago, and why I bought your books on battery building and ebikes. Practical information delivered in a concise, easy-to-digest format.
Great video. I’m a NZ physics teacher and am happy to share your video because it is accurate, paced well and with great visual reference. Top marks, and many thanks, nga mihi nui!
This video was definitely not too long, because there was a lot of information to learn. Thank you so much, Micah
Amazing video! Great to see you reviewing this with great care and honesty... Would love to see a little experiment if you fancy that: what happens with your thermal camera when you pull 30 amps from this battery; how much better does it get if you replace the discharge bits of nickel plated steel with pure nickel...
this is why i subbed this channel. useful information, unbiased opinions, hands on examples of how to understand what, and why. you never fail to deliver on the goods.
Thank you for this VERY enlightening examination of a bike battery.
My E-CELLS Super MonarchCrown 2 wheel drive E-MTB has two SAMSUNG batteries, 17Ah front and 14.5 Ah rear (under the rear rack) Dave Cleveland, the designer/owner of E-CELLS did a very good job of sourcing high quality parts for a great price ($5,100.) Chinese motors, Japanese gearing, Korean batteries, Thai Vee tires, Taiwanese aluminum frame, American rear shock, etc.
I have no problems with longer movies when they are well made, as this one is. Well done Micah
I'm so glad I'm watching this video again. I have a couple cells that are not fully charging. When I took the battery out of the sleeve (I have a ancheer step through, no longer available on Amazon ☹️) they hot glued the wires and hot glued it to stay in the sleeve. It was a fight getting it out! I removed it very carefully without pinching any wires. Just waiting for my money to come in so I can order a couple parts. Spot welder and heat shrink wrap that you recommend in one of your videos.
Very good video. I do not mind longer videos with great content. Thank you for making this video. I’ve been contemplating on converting my existing bike to electric, and your videos have been a great help.
Thanks for taking the time to educate us. E- bikes are coming!
Thanks!
again you blow my mind with the how easy you make it all look. it's actually quite encouragingso old high school dropout like me becoming quite the electrical engineer thanks to your TH-cam channel. if I had copies of your books the future would be Limitless.
Hi Micah, as usual excellent and very informative video, thanks!
The only thing I miss is that the cells are SUPPOSED to be 2500mAh from the technical sheet but this should be checked to really know if this is a good quality battery.
It would have been nice if you had been able to charge/discharge 1 cell and see if we are close to theoretical specs (or not...)
Thanks for doing the breakdown on the battery, I learned a lot! I had wondered how there could be such great differences in battery costs from different vendors and manufacturers.
Awesome video. Not only did I learn how to check if a battery is good quality, but I also learned things I can improve on my DIY 18650 batteries.
I heard your book is the best thing to read for anyone wanting to build their own electric bike I'm here for this wonderful knowledge thank you for all the help man
I learned so much about cycle battery design and technology from this video. Excellently produced with superb audio, lighting, focus and video-photography. Many thanks.
You do seem quite knowledgeable , I like your style Also happy that you do not usually use factory or other providers to do the free advertizing ,that usually is redundant Thanks and keep up the good work
Thanks for taking care with clear and intelligent explanations. I appreciate your attention to detail and you clearly value good quality design. I look forward to learning more from your videos and articles. Thanks again!
Hi James here from SC. This is a great website, very informative helpful and complete. I have an e-bike, three wheel. I turned it into e-bike, my first attempt. The company I bought from is gone, my battery is dead, so I learned an important lesson. I can't find a battery replacement so I'm going to build myself. That's how I found you. I'm going to build one no weld with one of your kits. It's 36 v, but I'm going to add more batteries for more distance and you have all the info and materials I'll need. I'll be looking up where to get the kit. I'm so happy I found you!!
A longer video is still good, if it's all actual content. Good work. You're creating a channel with quality information that I think I'll be able to trust.
Im thrilled to see that they have some balance leads in there. Being an RC car guy just getting into big scooters i was unsure if the manufactures would cheap and and just do a fast charge everytime with no balance leads.
These videos are excellent tutorials for ebike owners & DIYers. Also great for segment teaching Industrial Technology skills & procedures
Very educational video , I learned so much. Just minutes before watching this information I was looking for a second battery for my e-bike. This helped me make up my mind.. Thank you David Hankins Ozark Mo.
The electrical resistance of Nickel is about 70% of that of Iron, so the difference isn't very big. There are plenty of cross sections between cells in series, so it wouldn't be a problem at all. You could have actually measured the width and the thickness of the strips and do some calculations instead of using words like 'I guess' and 'probably'. The point that worries me is the (dual layer) strips of the first and last row.
Furthermore, you didn't measure the capacity of the cells. You went for the datasheet. If there is one thing you cannot trust it's the specs of Chinese cells. They are sold to up to 9999 mAh which is nearly 3 times of what is even possible at the moment. Most of them perform way below their (fake) specs.
Those are really only the UltraFire cells. If you get branded cells that weigh the right amount, you can be confident they have decent capacity. Internal resistance on the other hand...
@@kevincai96 Most of them are also recycled and rewrapped.
At about 6.25, remember that the max current is quickly derated based on the temperature INSIDE the CELL...not the temperature in the case or general environment. So in most cases if one tries to take it up to the max current without derating for the cell's internal temperature one would quickly have a possible explosion, fire, and/or other catastrophic cell failure.
Thorough review with balanced specificity. Now I am curious as to what battery manufacturers you like the most.
Thank you. This is giving. I admired that. If I had to choose a book would be the lithium batteries. Salut and best wishes. This is TH-cam woth watching. Generosity and simplicity.
Your analyses are at such a higher level than I've yet to see regarding these batteries. I think I purchased a quality ebike (2019 Cannondale Synapse Neo with a Bosch system) but I'm sure the technology is so much better 2 years later! Thanks for putting your knowledge out there..
Good job explaining without talking over my head. I'm still gonna need to rewatch parts though.
Great job, you just made a very informative and important job checking that battery. I've checked my myself many batteries and what I found in some cases was very small BMS'S with small heat sinks. And all bad. I think that if BMS'S are too small they won't last to long.
I really enjoyed this video! 👍😁 I’m just getting started with ebikes and am burning up the “airwaves” so to speak in educating my self. I have a nice class II ebike that was fairly inexpensive. I use it as a commuter bike to go back and forth to work. It’s called a VIVI
First time I have watched one of your videos. Wish I had known about this channel long ago. Great information. Thanks.
Great video. I am starting out with e bikes and this helped demystify lithium batteries as well as describe best practices for construction
Is there a E-bike battery brand you recommend, one that meets all items on your wish list? I've purchased two different brands, one leaked (failed) and the other doesn't seem to work as advertised (drains rather quickly). Just curious since they are not cheap.
Convert to using a outdoor power equipment battery platform depending on your voltage and Ah setup. Lack of consistent quality control and “buyer beware “ should be the exception for batteries used for transportation, not the norm. Ego 56 volt is perfect platform for 48 to 52 volt controller and motor. 3 year warranty. And thermal management done right.
How did this standard black plastic brick with cells jammed in there with no airflow become the ebike norm?
Got one of your book hope to win another......this is about quality, and I'm glad your covering this.
Good know-how about the commercially available battery packs. Thanks to point out pros n cons of it..
This video is another reason why i sub'd way back when. Well done.
Excellent video. TH-cam is an outstanding teaching source and this video is no exception. I do have a question though. This battery is of medium quality and is exactly the type of battery I have on my ebike right down to the voltage and amp hours. My battery is weakening after only 2 years. I have a 500 watt motor on mine so should I be shopping for something like a lg battery? If that battery in your video retails at $299 something tells me a premium replacement is gonna be in the $500 range. Which route do you suggest I go. Heck I only paid 700 for my whole bike and the replacement battery will almost be as much lol.
I'd run an electrical test first. Could save a lot of my time.
At the end of the video you still don't know if the battery pack can in fact deliver the advertised Ah. In addition to the visual inspection, I'd have to use a battery tester before concluding it could be a quality battery. A "constant current" battery tester for up to 200V and upto 180W total dissipation is available for less than US$40 and can rapidly give you pretty good insight into the Ah the battery can deliver in reality...not just as claimed by the seller.
I'd run the electrical test first. It's a fast, easy and definitive way to tell if the battery is even capable of delivering anything near its claimed specs. It may take 3 or 4 charge/discharge cycles. Only then, if it passes that testing would I worry about taking it apart for visual examination of build and component quality. Running the electrical test first could save a LOT of my time if the battery is low quality, and it generally should be safer, too.
BATTERY PACK PERFORMANCE ISSUES:
There are batteries out there that use counterfeit lithium cells, or even intentionally low-quality cells, so even if they are marked like they came from one of the known high-quality manufactures (Samsung, Panasonic, etc ####mAh rated cells) the cells themselves may in fact not be from that company nor provide the claimed mAh rating. Even the battery pack manufacturers may unintentionally get counterfeit cells once in awhile which can cause major underperformance. These are common issues for example in USB powerbanks. Example: one powerbank brand CLAIMS 10,000Ah capacity while using what turn out to really be 800mAh cells in a 6p1s 18650 configuration...which could at MOST rightly claim 6x800mAh=4800mAh (yet they are LABELED as 1800mAh NCR/Sanyo/Panasonic cells which they clearly are not)The same issues exists in many battery packs for many different uses (including e-bike packs) available on eBay and Amazon.
@@hchalmoepas6544 I can't recommend any specific ones, but there are some custom battery pack assemblers that have very good reviews on ebay. There are a number of individuals and companies you can find recommended in electricbike.com/forum
You can find some sources recommended by DIYers that can provide just what you're asking for. The generally provide good battery packs because of the feedback on the forum. I've found the group very helpful and knowledgeable.
Yep exactly I seen so many falsely advertised and using junk, or fake cells. I finally got one that was as advertised and using LG IMR 18650 cells 2850mAH and tested on discharge pretty close, or slightly above, so definitely genuine and was cheaper then this pack in this video. I was actually surprised as was expecting Chinese FST cells, or one of the 3 common Chinese cells they use.
A few packs even have had where BMS was miswired on discharge side and literally could drain battery down to zero as they bypassed the low voltage cutoff on the BMS? Don’t get me started on those packs claiming to have Panasonic cells using Sanyo and not the GA cells, so technically not Panasonic, or not even using neither and lying completely and charging $400 plus for the pack. I guess they figured out most won’t open the pack?
Great video, lots of insight. Just saying if you want to do an ad at the end of your video and you are clear what is content and what is an ad I have no problem with that. Obviously this is your channel and you do what you think is best.
Thanks for the informative video. I am a bicycle tech just starting with ebikes. I picked up a defunct ebike at a garage sale, and It seems that the battery is bad, so I am looking at inexpensive replacement or refurbish options. Your video has given me some vital information to use when selecting a replacement.
Fantastic and very informative. Your detailed descriptions are on point. Learnt something that is actually useful. Thanks!
Very interesting. I have a Bosch mid drive system...I bought it in 2014 in Europe....I still run the original battery...I remember reading about a fire in NY city where a person was charging multiple batteries and they caught fire....I have a simple rule of thumb....I never leave my battery charging when I am not present....
I'm a Bosch mid drive rider. Got a new battery and love it 6000 miles riden
good video. precise and to the point. no dilly dallying to lenghten the video. Tks mate.
One of the best video I have seen so far. Thanks
Thanks for good detail, clearly explained & photographed. - Jim
Thanks, really enjoyed your informative video. I've recently purchased an Emove 30A e bike and I believe they use LG batteries. Hope they are a quality build.
Great video idea. Really helps us learn in a very practical way.
I love seeing this kind of breakdown and review!
I appreciate the detailed and honest review. I was actually looking at this battery on Amazon.
Love your videos. I'm learning so much. Weird observation. You handle the knife like a warehouse guy. You are the first TH-camr to open boxes like I do. Anyway. Have a good day.
Excellent video with very good and articulate explanation.
I find all of this stuff SUPER fascinating, I always try avoid batteries because I thought they were too easy to mess up but this seems almost straight forward. Maybe I will make an ebike
Wow what a great evaluation of a ebike battery cant wait for your next one ,Thank you PD
Thanks for the very informative video. Been very interested in creating my own battery packs for a while, and your videos are helping a lot.
Thank you, very informative, batteries are a very important ebike component and knowing what is inside the case is very helpful.
Great Vid, would love to have a couple of your books when the time comes for my Ebike modifications. Thx really for the info.
Your videos are very informative. I was hoping to see part 3 of the e-motorcycle build but I guess that is in the future. Keep up the good work. By the way. Motorcycle screws especially those connected to the engine are impact screws and you need to use a impact screwdriver to get them off without stripping the heads. In expensive tool but essential for motorcycle work.
Thanks for sharing all of this useful info. Very helpful getting up to speed with what's inside the e-bike battery
Thank you for all you do . I've found this video really well done and i learned a lot today.
There's another way to find out how good your battery is, without taking a hacksaw and dremmel to it, use a larger controller and motor for the battery and see how the BMS manages it
Nice video, I could of lived with the 25 minute one, the more information the better. Good work
Yeah, we're here for the information so the length doesn't really matter.
Ok, I'm subscribed!
I'm beginning my research with the intention of building an electric motorcycle. I know virtually nothing yet, but I was impressed with your presentation, and will be looking at more of your videos, and considering reading your books.
Thanks for the quality presentation
Same!
one of the most useful videos i seen on this topic loved it.
very good. cheers. manufactuerer quality batteries are expensive and we all are thinking cheaper batteries are fine. your inspection and conclusion throws this out of the window. good work.
Hi Micah, great video, I'm trying to get up to speed on these batteries. I am repairing a 48 volt Lectric battery. It has 52 Lishen cells (LS LR 1865 SK 19/66). They are mounted end to end so the configuration is confusing to me. I have a background in electronics but when I went to school we spent a little of time on vacuum tubes. This battery quit after 19 months and 800 miles. We bought two bikes together and the second is great. I can see the bad cell, but haven't taken them apart to measure each cell.
That’s a great instructional video Mika, could you not use a strong magnet to test your fits nickel plated steel?
Thank you for making these videos. And I have been reading your book diy solar power, it’s really fantastic 👌
To test for solid nickel or Nickelplated steel just take a magnet! Love all your videos they are sooooooo cool
So interesting on ebike batteries! Thanks so much for doing this; I had no idea on how complex these ebike batteries can be! Thanks again.
Fair and balanced, thanks! I trust your expertise so much I bought the Verund battery kit and some good 'top five' cells. Can't wait to learn hands-on!
Mack Collister ..So what’s your thoughts on the verund kit and the building process today? :)
Super Informative Video! Thanks.
That's an excellent review! You examined every important points including common CONS that cheap battery have. Btw, sometime when a parallel group have the main positive or negative wire soldered to one end of a parallel group, there chance that the opposite polarity have a serie link to the other end, which conpensate for current balance.. but in that design where serie parallel connections are in majority in "W" there is les chances. Also i would have been curious to see if teh ON/Off switch is connected to the BMS SW1 input.. usually located close to the external temp sensor connections... in fact BMS with switch input and temp sensor are usually input that are connected in serie.. and when there is no external switch used, the connections on teh PCBare simply jumped together to close the loop and enable the BMS FETS.
Would like to see a more expensive name brand battery tear down to see if you actually get what you pay for. Great video.
Thanks Micah, always appreciate your videos!
Hi great video. I got here becase recently the battery of my cargo e-bike stop working and i got curious about the internal construction of these batteries. Well, i see that in my battery i 30A fuse is gone, the ba,ttery case providex a separate cover that give you access to the fuse. I wonder if it is safe to replace the fuse or it is better to check if other electronics got damage. The thing is that it is not so easy to open the whole case.
Do you still have the battery pack? God told me that some of your battery cells are losing charge and the rest will go bad soon. God told me it has nothing to do with the fuse. You'll have to build a new battery pack.
Thanks for that review and being loyal to your viewers 🙏
Great stuff Micah! Love your work and books!
Love the ethos of this channel, keep it up mate!
I have found with your videos no matter how long they are they are worth watching
Micah, Super evaluations and videos. Very thoughtful and thorough! Thanks
Thankyou For your straightforward explanation
Educational video, thanks for sharing your knowledge. - Rajesh Kulkarni
A very instructive video, thank you for sharing.
What do you think about the so called "Tesla fuse method" (using the legs of a 1/8 w resistor as a fuse between parallel groups).
Thank you again. Regards from Colombia
Wouldn't that require soldiering and therfore damaging the anodes with heat?
You’re awesome bro you do a lot of good videos keep up the good work
Why not use a magnet to check for steel/iron?
Thanks for the very thorough and informative battery review. Well done.
Thanks for another great video. Always informative!
Superb video, really useful, much appreciated. I must go home and strip down my batteries this weekend to check their quality.