I was amazed to see what you said about cylinder 3! It was like a dramatic season finale of a tv series. It makes sense and it probably had that problem new and after the first rebuild. You guys make great videos. Thanks for sharing with us.
I know you get a lot of comments, so I hope you read this. I want you to know how much I appreciate you taking the time to make these videos. I have huge respect for your level of craftmanship and I learn a tremendous amount from you. Old school values!
Slow progress is just fine. Methodical practices help to prevent mistakes or damaged parts/tools/Squatches. I love watching your videos. Reminds me a lot of my father and I working on old vehicles and equipment together. We can start to butt heads from time to time but over the years we've both learned to exercise a bit more patience with one another. He's getting back into mechanics again after working for a large IT company for many years. I got him a job at my shop and we sort of had to start all over again with taking the time to learn each other's work habits, styles, etc. People told me it wouldn't work, the two of us at the same job, especially me being a foreman and him not. But I told them I will make it work because he raised me when we didn't have anything but made sure I didn't go without anything. Taught me how to be a mechanic and a decent human being. Now the tables turned and he lost his job and was about to be out of a place to live or food for the table. I went to the owner of my shop and explained things and was handed a phone and told to ask him to come work with us. My job is like any other job with ups and downs, but working with people like that, I can say that I don't want to work anywhere else. Anyway sorry for the mushy post. Always look forward to your videos and keep up the good work so that old iron gets to live on!
Sunnen honing oil will wash the bores down as you hone not so much dust but it will make a mess ! I believe it's made from sulfurized lard oil the stones cut better too ! 35 years hydraulic mechanic, I've rebuilt a few engines but this is great, keep up the good work Thanks
I agree - took a lot of work to get them to fit but at the end of the day they went in beautifully. I didn't have near the issues with the H sleeves - some light boring and they were easily in 1/3 of the way by hand. Nice work, boys!
@@squatch253 yessir. You did an excellent job showing the process (as usual). I should have spent more time on this section with the H, but I guess it wasn't necessary since everything went together like butter. Looking forward to setting the rotating assembly go back together. Soon enough you'll have several "test run" videos! Just in time for summer. :-)
One should always use some sort of honing oil when using rigid adjustable hone such as you are using...a bit messy but it definitely saves the stones & wiper/guides. WD-40 will also work in a pinch. I've used Sunnen rigid hones up to 24" diameter & ALWAYS use honing oil
When you hone or deglaze "cylinders" it's best done with kerosene or solvent (not the environmental crap) as it keeps the dust down and "lubes" the stones. You use a parts washer pump to "flood" the cylinders. An old school method when my grand dad did it.
Ok, darn it! THAT does it 🤣. I’m 60 but just signed up for engine re-build class at local community college! Thanks to Junior and Senior, I gotta get hands-on! The question is ... are the instructors gonna be half as good as the Squatch boys? Prob not!😆 But I’m gonna have fun regardless! Oh, by the way, I’m a professional video editor/graphic designer and have NO practical use for this class other than to absolutely enjoy myself. Ha. Makes it even better! Thanks Junior and Senior! Homework at my age? Ah well...🤓
Hey Bob, you may not realize it, but you just stepped off the "deep end". Next thing you know it'll be tractor shows, then you'll be buying one to fix up/restore or an antique engine, car, or something LOL! Welcome to the Club! You'll love it.
Thanks for showing what you and senior are doing with IH engine block. I can say most people would never see this done in their life time with out the Internet.
I still would have heated that block with a forced air heater and dropped those liners in rather than pressing but that is just me and there are a thousand ways to skin that Cat. It sounds like that block "seasoned" and went out of spec and has not been reworked to spec since then. You will have a better than new overhaul now. It is kind of like the 5.9 Cummins motors that all ways go sway decked on the head surface and need decking back to flat. Lots of heat cycles can really make stuff crawl around sometimes.
I've never read in the IH overhaul book about honning out the block before reinstalling the new cylinders if you hone the block out your going to have a problem with the sleeves turning around in the block, I always coat the outer sleeve with locktite and install .
the dealership i worked for we never had to hone the sleeve bores we had a bore gauge to check for taper or out of round the most we ever had to do was hone the bore with a glaze breaker and wash them and make shure we had a 0.005 interference fit. we had a special press that bolted to the head bolts to push the sleeves in.if you fit the sleeves too loose the lands will break off and the sleeve will move up and down in the bore and wreck the block.
I know exactly what you are going through. My buddy bought a W6 kerosene tractor that was just as bad on out of round in the block. It was painful to have to do all that but the reward of a beautiful running tractor was priceless.
Probably not applicable here , years ago at work we pulled in and out 6 inch long 5 inch od 4 inch id bronze bushings into robots . we cut a socket into two , welded into a pieca of pipe and used an impact gun to pull .Quick and dirty ! I respect that you know that parts do not always have to be new , but have to be servicable fo the long run . i'm 79 years old , rebuilt many small block chevvy engines but only one diesel . NH 220 Cummins , did things to that engine that would horrify you . That story takes time and beer to tell !
# 3 was the possible piston slap noise heard before teardown . On my wd-6 the machine shop discovered a air pocket / casting flaw in a cylinder hole before sleeving , so that block has a double sleeve job in one cylinder .
You must have esp! watching i kept thinking why don't you chill the sleeves & was going to ask but you answered that question enjoyed the video tell SR to have a safe trip
Great Video, concise info and easy to understand instruction. I was slightly dismayed to see you creating all that dust and grit so close to your other uncovered projects. Wouldn't want to see your meticulously performed diesel assembly sidelined by a bit of dirt. I suppose you have probably already cleaned shop and addressed the issue. Thanks.
Senior, what are you a retiree? Your on a farm, you never retire. You just do small chores!. Ha. My Grandpa never retired from his farm, he just tended smaller and smaller plots each year and had my uncles take care of the rest. Toby, what's your take on the reason for benefits of wet sleeves verse dry sleeves? Won't a good machine always check the straightness of the bore after install? In the one shot you had three giants of the machinery era, Minneapolis Moline in back. Caterpillar in the middle. Finally Farmall in front.
Thank you for the video.You answered several of my questions in the comments-Is it common to hone the cylinder walls,using cold to shrink the liners ,lubricating the hone.
One thing that i can't understand is why would you dry hone the bores . I have done a lot of honing with my sunnen ridged hone but never dry as the stones plug up with cuttings have always used a cutting oil like croma tap The hone seems to cut faster with a a slower speed on the drill and the cuttings wash away with each application of oil . I will use motor oil for polishing at the end wit the 500 stone if required . The stones seem to last a lot longer wet . On the commercial sunnen honing machine oil is being pumped into the bore when honing .
How are you cleaning the stones? Are you using an abrasive eraser like what's used for sandpaper or something else? Another question, while you're honing, why aren't you taping off the coolant and oil passages in the block? I'd think you don't want any of that junk down inside the block. I know you said, it will be "washed" later. The work and both you and your dad's patience on this type of work, truly enjoy it. My grand dad taught me an old saying: "slow is fast, fast is slow". Not many will understand that statement, many of the "old timers" do I bet. Great video as always, cheers :)
That barreling of the sleeves is likely an accident of manufacture due to heat distortion. The issue was crucial when trying to find a way of making concentric and parallel sleeves for sleeve valve Bristol radial aero engines.
Or maybe just a function of the work-holding. If it's supported on both ends (like in a chuck on one side and a center in the other), the middle section will deflect from the tool/wheel pressure. Very common in turning operations with thin-walled parts.
I'm wondering if come dinner time do you guys call each other by your TH-cam names. "Um squatch 253, please pass the the gravy". "Sure thing squatch senior".
Like watching the rebuild.videos. I've never rebuilt an engine but have to rebuild.my 1969case 188 diesel backhoe. It still starts great (no starting fluid) even in the coldest day but bo compression on #1 cylinder. I do have 1 question ,what the diffrence between a in tractor rebuild or if i pull the motor?? I guess they are 2 diffrent kits but by pic they look the same
Just out of curiosity, what would you have done IF you would have seen some hidden micro cracks in the water jacket while honing the jackets? Would you have continued or tossed the block?
I am surprised you are honing dry.. I was always taught to hone wet.. some said with Kerosine for lube, others detergent/soapy water..., and that method stops the clogging of the stones. Is there a particular reason why you hone dry?
I was in an automotive program at a local college back in 1980 and we installed a sleeve in a gas engine. We dry iced it and I can assure you it didn't drop in. The teacher had us taking turns wrenching it in place, the last few guys had it the hardest as the sleeve warmed up during the process.
@@squatch253 --ford sleeves are very thin..we called them Campbells soup can liners. I had good luck using this tecknique ...I worked at a Massey dealership...and we had to hustle ….working on the customers dime..eg. do a good job but get it done fast.......
Quick question, just got my block off the bell housing and starting removing pistons and sleeves. Noticed cylinder three was stuck pretty good so after about two days of slowly getting it out I noticed the bore hole has a piece broken off. Is my engine toast or can I just put in new sleeves, pistons, and rods?
Hi there just wondering what the D and the C mean stamped on the block and how do you clean the stones on your hon you know what I mean I don’t know how to spell hon and also how do you think those tiger stripes got between the block and the sleeve and did you get a exact measurement of how much material you honed out of the cylinder block? I am very curious about these things. Thanks
Hey Squatch, I've done my share of wrenching, and we never stop learning. I've never rebuilt anything that had replaceable sleeves. My question... Honing the block IS a rare necessity...correct?
@@craigh4677 Understood, but I'm asking...How often does this necessity occur? I'm guessing that most of the time, the average rebuild doesn't require honing the block to install sleeves, but ...how many times has Squatch had to hone the BLOCK just so you can get the sleeves in? He's probably done his share of sleeve installations, and I'd like to know how often do you run across this delima?
I guess we don't know if these liners are OE or pattern and whether their OD is STD or slightly larger to allow the counter bore to honed ensuring a tight fit.
No, back in the day at the dealership they had a selection of 5 different sized select-fit sleeves to match the 5 different letter stampings that the engine machining facility would've put on the top of the block next to each bore - because of irregularities in the machining process they would carefully gauge each bore and assign it a stamp of A, B, C, D, or E to show where it landed in the variance range, and they'd then match the corresponding lettered sleeve kit to each hole for proper fit. Those select fit sleeves went away when IH went out of business though, so now all we're left with are slightly oversized aftermarket sleeve kits that sometimes have to have the block bores custom sized to accept. To see more of what I'm talking about here, check out the following video link (at the 5:00 mark) of me having the opposite problem with my Farmall H engine - block bores that are too large to be able to get a press fit - th-cam.com/video/Dj6qztT3X1Q/w-d-xo.html
Do you need to change the stamp markings in the top of the block now? I'm not sure what the marking were for. I know that they indicate something about the sleeve but what do they mean.
@@squatch253 I would not turn them with a tool. You are correct in that alignment would be difficult. I would have just used a file and paper to polish to fit. Anyway you did what was best for you and that's what counts in the end. I just had this feeling that it might be better to modify the replaceable part than the block which was fine originally. Cheers and keep up the good work. By the way I'm a full time pro machinist for 40+years.
Do you honestly think that these two guys would miss something as crucial as "crush washers"!? It is obvious you haven't watched past videos and the craftsmanship they put into their builds.
Paul Copeland no, I did not think they failed to install a required part, I was just wondering what the difference was in engine design that required/did not need the copper crush washers under the cylinder liner rims. The D3400 will probably have higher compression cycles and that could be the difference. There might be a difference in how the head seats on the liner rims. I have watched everything they have posted and enjoyed it all, and stacked tons of knowledge on equipment overhauls that I will never use. I am “hot”on the D2 because one of the first books I read in middle school was “Bulldozer!” By Stephen W. Meader, that featured a WWII vet that pulled a D2 out of a pond in upstate Maine after buying it for salvage, got it running with the help of a mechanic friend and built an earthmoving business through honest hard work, and he got the girl as well!
Did anybody else have trouble with the governor video for the D2 I could only watch half and then it kept saying something went wrong tap to retry but it didn’t work
@@squatch253 well of course you hone the block but to minimal interference, it is a pressed fit,ie.002, Freezing does work you lacked the experience, but don't feel bad we have all cracked a thin wall sleeve
Farmall H and M gasoline/distillate engines, the C152 and C248 and their descendants, are dry sleeve engines. A, B, C C113 and C123 engines are wet sleeve. Farmall Cub is not sleeved at all.
I know you think my idea of freezing them was dumb, but it how we get outer races in semi truck wheels done for years, I will keep my stupid comments to myself.
I was amazed to see what you said about cylinder 3! It was like a dramatic season finale of a tv series.
It makes sense and it probably had that problem new and after the first rebuild.
You guys make great videos. Thanks for sharing with us.
I know you get a lot of comments, so I hope you read this. I want you to know how much I appreciate you taking the time to make these videos. I have huge respect for your level of craftmanship and I learn a tremendous amount from you. Old school values!
Man. You guys have the best channel. No dumbocity. Just good knowledge that hopefully another generation can take advantage of.
Don't apologize! Keep sharing when you can share! They are great videos and your wear all the hats in your production company.
Race-prep quality detail on this rebuild. Just love to see this little bit of perfection injected into the world.
Slow progress is just fine. Methodical practices help to prevent mistakes or damaged parts/tools/Squatches. I love watching your videos. Reminds me a lot of my father and I working on old vehicles and equipment together. We can start to butt heads from time to time but over the years we've both learned to exercise a bit more patience with one another. He's getting back into mechanics again after working for a large IT company for many years. I got him a job at my shop and we sort of had to start all over again with taking the time to learn each other's work habits, styles, etc. People told me it wouldn't work, the two of us at the same job, especially me being a foreman and him not. But I told them I will make it work because he raised me when we didn't have anything but made sure I didn't go without anything. Taught me how to be a mechanic and a decent human being. Now the tables turned and he lost his job and was about to be out of a place to live or food for the table. I went to the owner of my shop and explained things and was handed a phone and told to ask him to come work with us. My job is like any other job with ups and downs, but working with people like that, I can say that I don't want to work anywhere else. Anyway sorry for the mushy post. Always look forward to your videos and keep up the good work so that old iron gets to live on!
Between the cat and IH them two motors will be better than when they were new. Great video thanks for sharing.
Again i love watching your careful attention to detail! Amazing quality in your work!
Great job guys!
Sunnen honing oil will wash the bores down as you hone not so much dust but it will make a mess ! I believe it's made from sulfurized lard oil the stones cut better too ! 35 years hydraulic mechanic, I've rebuilt a few engines but this is great, keep up the good work Thanks
I agree - took a lot of work to get them to fit but at the end of the day they went in beautifully. I didn't have near the issues with the H sleeves - some light boring and they were easily in 1/3 of the way by hand. Nice work, boys!
@@squatch253 yessir. You did an excellent job showing the process (as usual). I should have spent more time on this section with the H, but I guess it wasn't necessary since everything went together like butter. Looking forward to setting the rotating assembly go back together. Soon enough you'll have several "test run" videos! Just in time for summer. :-)
One should always use some sort of honing oil when using rigid adjustable hone such as you are using...a bit messy but it definitely saves the stones & wiper/guides. WD-40 will also work in a pinch. I've used Sunnen rigid hones up to 24" diameter & ALWAYS use honing oil
Slow and steady wins the race. Wonderful Friday night visit, thank you.
Super precision engineering that was so good to see the liners just slide in with no snatching 💪💪👍
When you hone or deglaze "cylinders" it's best done with kerosene or solvent (not the environmental crap) as it keeps the dust down and "lubes" the stones. You use a parts washer pump to "flood" the cylinders. An old school method when my grand dad did it.
Ok, darn it! THAT does it 🤣.
I’m 60 but just signed up for engine re-build class at local community college! Thanks to Junior and Senior, I gotta get hands-on! The question is ... are the instructors gonna be half as good as the Squatch boys? Prob not!😆 But I’m gonna have fun regardless!
Oh, by the way, I’m a professional video editor/graphic designer and have NO practical use for this class other than to absolutely enjoy myself. Ha. Makes it even better!
Thanks Junior and Senior! Homework at my age? Ah well...🤓
Go get em buddy.
Learn everything you can learn.
And ask questions every time you have one . 😊😊😊😊😊👍👍👍👍
Hey Bob, you may not realize it, but you just stepped off the "deep end". Next thing you know it'll be tractor shows, then you'll be buying one to fix up/restore or an antique engine, car, or something LOL! Welcome to the Club! You'll love it.
@@markhull1366 it gets in your blood doesn't it. 😊
@@evankibbe590 Think it's called Classic Tractor Fever. It's incurrable too. :)
@@markhull1366 yes it is. I love old tractors and rebuilding engines.
Very ,nice to see two master mechanics at work.
Ditto, you nailed it in one Walter.
Beautiful job. This engine will last another hundred plus years with proper care.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for showing what you and senior are doing with IH engine block. I can say most people would never see this done in their life time with out the Internet.
You guys do nice work! Love the father and son team.
I still would have heated that block with a forced air heater and dropped those liners in rather than pressing but that is just me and there are a thousand ways to skin that Cat. It sounds like that block "seasoned" and went out of spec and has not been reworked to spec since then. You will have a better than new overhaul now. It is kind of like the 5.9 Cummins motors that all ways go sway decked on the head surface and need decking back to flat. Lots of heat cycles can really make stuff crawl around sometimes.
I love Senior's Swedish accent
That was interesting to see those sleeves being drawn into the block.Precision work,..and I'm sure it'll pay off.
I've never read in the IH overhaul book about honning out the block before reinstalling the new cylinders if you hone the block out your going to have a problem with the sleeves turning around in the block, I always coat the outer sleeve with locktite and install .
Smooth working experienced father/son team of master mechanics. LOVE it!
Trade School teacher from the fifties , you would have been great!!! DAD & son combo even better..............
Slow and steady wins the race. Should be good for another 50-60 years when you guys get it done.
the dealership i worked for we never had to hone the sleeve bores we had a bore gauge to check for taper or out of round the most we ever had to do was hone the bore with a glaze breaker and wash them and make shure we had a 0.005 interference fit. we had a special press that bolted to the head bolts to push the sleeves in.if you fit the sleeves too loose the lands will break off and the sleeve will move up and down in the bore and wreck the block.
I know exactly what you are going through. My buddy bought a W6 kerosene tractor that was just as bad on out of round in the block. It was painful to have to do all that but the reward of a beautiful running tractor was priceless.
I live the high speed as you pulled them in. Too cool!
Probably not applicable here , years ago at work we pulled in and out 6 inch long 5 inch od 4 inch id bronze bushings into robots . we cut a socket into two , welded into a pieca of pipe and used an impact gun to pull .Quick and dirty ! I respect that you know that parts do not always have to be new , but have to be servicable fo the long run . i'm 79 years old , rebuilt many small block chevvy engines but only one diesel . NH 220 Cummins , did things to that engine that would horrify you . That story takes time and beer to tell !
Sleeves look good in that Super M Squatch. Nice work!
I am sure you know this but honing oil would keep your stones from clogging and help with the cutting action plus no dust. keep up the good work
A lot faster than I could have done this. Good Work fellows! Full Watch and Thumbs UP!
That was the best sleeve Installation I've ever seen.
Better than any way I've ever helped do it. They sure fit nice .😊😊👍👍👍👍👍
Congrats, you have a fabolus channel. And that CAT D2 is outstanding! keep it high!
# 3 was the possible piston slap noise heard before teardown . On my wd-6 the machine shop discovered a air pocket / casting flaw in a cylinder hole before sleeving , so that block has a double sleeve job in one cylinder .
I miss my dad (sigh) nice memories boys!
Yes i miss my my dad too..i learned alot from him
I'm with you guys on missing our dads. Not a day goes by that I don't think of him.
Beautiful, just beautiful.
At 3:20. Who needs a hydraulic press when you have a high speed Senior! BobUK.
You must have esp! watching i kept thinking why don't you chill the sleeves & was going to ask but you answered that question enjoyed the video tell SR to have a safe trip
Great Video, concise info and easy to understand instruction.
I was slightly dismayed to see you creating all that dust and grit so close to your other uncovered projects. Wouldn't want to see your meticulously performed diesel assembly sidelined by a bit of dirt. I suppose you have probably already cleaned shop and addressed the issue. Thanks.
That was proabaly the hardest part of tht build. Thanks guys. Good vid.
Senior, what are you a retiree? Your on a farm, you never retire. You just do small chores!. Ha.
My Grandpa never retired from his farm, he just tended smaller and smaller plots each year and had my uncles take care of the rest.
Toby, what's your take on the reason for benefits of wet sleeves verse dry sleeves? Won't a good machine always check the straightness of the bore after install?
In the one shot you had three giants of the machinery era, Minneapolis Moline in back. Caterpillar in the middle. Finally Farmall in front.
You guys work great together
Thank you for the video.You answered several of my questions in the comments-Is it common to hone the cylinder walls,using cold to shrink the liners ,lubricating the hone.
Great teamwork! (And good patience!)
.001 is a good interference fit if u freeze ur sleeves first
Great video. Hopefully the wet sleeves on the engine I'm doing right now will go a lot easier!
Great job guys..
Take the time to make it right. Great job. Have you talked about a paint job on this one?Thanks for a great video.
One thing that i can't understand is why would you dry hone the bores . I have done a lot of honing with my sunnen ridged hone but never dry as the stones plug up with cuttings have always used a cutting oil like croma tap The hone seems to cut faster with a a slower speed on the drill and the cuttings wash away with each application of oil . I will use motor oil for polishing at the end wit the 500 stone if required . The stones seem to last a lot longer wet . On the commercial sunnen honing machine oil is being pumped into the bore when honing .
I’ll be doing my 300 shortly. Keep up the great videos 👌
Very nice fore sure, well we have to wait I guess
May be slow but sometimes doing things the right way takes time.
How are you cleaning the stones? Are you using an abrasive eraser like what's used for sandpaper or something else? Another question, while you're honing, why aren't you taping off the coolant and oil passages in the block? I'd think you don't want any of that junk down inside the block. I know you said, it will be "washed" later.
The work and both you and your dad's patience on this type of work, truly enjoy it. My grand dad taught me an old saying: "slow is fast, fast is slow". Not many will understand that statement, many of the "old timers" do I bet. Great video as always, cheers :)
That barreling of the sleeves is likely an accident of manufacture due to heat distortion. The issue was crucial when trying to find a way of making concentric and parallel sleeves for sleeve valve Bristol radial aero engines.
Or maybe just a function of the work-holding. If it's supported on both ends (like in a chuck on one side and a center in the other), the middle section will deflect from the tool/wheel pressure. Very common in turning operations with thin-walled parts.
I'm wondering if come dinner time do you guys call each other by your TH-cam names. "Um squatch 253, please pass the the gravy". "Sure thing squatch senior".
Or maybe Full Nelson and Half Nelson.😜
Won’t the sleeves and other parts flash rust when you pressure wash? I’m new to this but just wondered how you prevent rusting.
Well that warpage and distortion is a common problem with dry liners (heat transfer )
Just wondering if you compared the height of the sleeves after installation.
Nick Jarman Have you performed this same procedure on a 9n? ,is the procedure the same ?
Like watching the rebuild.videos. I've never rebuilt an engine but have to rebuild.my 1969case 188 diesel backhoe. It still starts great (no starting fluid) even in the coldest day but bo compression on #1 cylinder. I do have 1 question ,what the diffrence between a in tractor rebuild or if i pull the motor?? I guess they are 2 diffrent kits but by pic they look the same
Do you ever grind the casting flash off the block and the crankshaft?
Just out of curiosity, what would you have done IF you would have seen some hidden micro cracks in the water jacket while honing the jackets? Would you have continued or tossed the block?
I'd want a ratchet wrench to pull those sleeves in
I am surprised you are honing dry.. I was always taught to hone wet.. some said with Kerosine for lube, others detergent/soapy water..., and that method stops the clogging of the stones. Is there a particular reason why you hone dry?
dry ice...the sleeves...…..drop them in....!!!
I was in an automotive program at a local college back in 1980 and we installed a sleeve in a gas engine.
We dry iced it and I can assure you it didn't drop in.
The teacher had us taking turns wrenching it in place, the last few guys had it the hardest as the sleeve warmed up during the process.
It depends on the press amount. A normal amount is 0001 per inch of bore. Then they will slip in with dry ice.
@@squatch253 --ford sleeves are very thin..we called them Campbells soup can liners. I had good luck using this tecknique ...I worked at a Massey dealership...and we had to hustle ….working on the customers dime..eg. do a good job but get it done fast.......
Just curious; are you using any kind of fluid while honing the bores, or are you running with the stones dry?
@@squatch253, thanks! I'm gathering tips from you, Kenny Kizzel, and others as I have a Farmall H project I'm starting on soon.
Quick question, just got my block off the bell housing and starting removing pistons and sleeves. Noticed cylinder three was stuck pretty good so after about two days of slowly getting it out I noticed the bore hole has a piece broken off. Is my engine toast or can I just put in new sleeves, pistons, and rods?
@@squatch253 it’s up near the top but below the bore lip.
@@squatch253 thanks for the reply I’ll try and sleeve it and see if it will hold pressure.
gosh I wish I could have done stuff like that with my dad I wasted my youth and then in the teens he was taken by cancer
Hi there just wondering what the D and the C mean stamped on the block and how do you clean the stones on your hon you know what I mean I don’t know how to spell hon and also how do you think those tiger stripes got between the block and the sleeve and did you get a exact measurement of how much material you honed out of the cylinder block? I am very curious about these things. Thanks
Hey Toby,,,just saw this vid. Could you have put the sleeves in a freezer?
Do you ever use cutting oil while honing?
What do you prefer, dry liner or wet liner engines?
squatch doing something dusty INSIDE the shop??
Hey Squatch,
I've done my share of wrenching, and we never stop learning. I've never rebuilt anything that had replaceable sleeves. My question...
Honing the block IS a rare necessity...correct?
Not Squatch but a mechanic here, I think they were honing the block to achieve a certain measurement before pressing/pulling the cylinder liner in.
@@craigh4677 Understood, but I'm asking...How often does this necessity occur? I'm guessing that most of the time, the average rebuild doesn't require honing the block to install sleeves, but ...how many times has Squatch had to hone the BLOCK just so you can get the sleeves in? He's probably done his share of sleeve installations, and I'd like to know how often do you run across this delima?
I guess we don't know if these liners are OE or pattern and whether their OD is STD or slightly larger to allow the counter bore to honed ensuring a tight fit.
@@squatch253 , Craig H, and Ray Collington,
Thank you all for your input.
Great place to learn from others' experiences.👍
I had a question.
With the distortion in that number 3 cylinder did you ever check for a bent connecting rod that someone else suggested it might be?
Meanwhile, on the haggardy channel they beat them in with a BFH.
Is dry hone the normal thing to do? I always thought it was supposed to be lubricated .
Hey I saw on Hagerty, you can just beat those in with a sledge hammer.
You can beat most things with a sledge hammer but that doesn't mean you should.
Sounds like a butcher job; no offense to meat cutters!
Squatch, just wondered why you honed the bores dry. Also, how are you cleaning the contamination from the stones?
@@squatch253 Makes sense to me. Thanks for tip on stone cleaning too!
Perhaps i missed it but why do the bores need to be clearanced? Back in the day at the dealership was this standard practice?
No, back in the day at the dealership they had a selection of 5 different sized select-fit sleeves to match the 5 different letter stampings that the engine machining facility would've put on the top of the block next to each bore - because of irregularities in the machining process they would carefully gauge each bore and assign it a stamp of A, B, C, D, or E to show where it landed in the variance range, and they'd then match the corresponding lettered sleeve kit to each hole for proper fit. Those select fit sleeves went away when IH went out of business though, so now all we're left with are slightly oversized aftermarket sleeve kits that sometimes have to have the block bores custom sized to accept. To see more of what I'm talking about here, check out the following video link (at the 5:00 mark) of me having the opposite problem with my Farmall H engine - block bores that are too large to be able to get a press fit - th-cam.com/video/Dj6qztT3X1Q/w-d-xo.html
@@squatch253
Thanks for the response
Honing stones dry? Are you shure?
Why no honing oil?
Do you need to change the stamp markings in the top of the block now? I'm not sure what the marking were for. I know that they indicate something about the sleeve but what do they mean.
Okay, thanks for the explanation. I'll be waiting for the next installment of the farmal rebuild. Thanks for sharing.....
Did u line bore ur crank main saddles
why don't you spray WD 40 in the hole it will stop the dust and lube the stones hence they won't wear when lubed
I wonder how hard it is for Toby's dad to remember to call Toby by 'Squatch253' and not just Toby..???
I think the scuffing on that piston was caused by the forward pressure on the flywheel from the starter nose in the clutch compartment.
No.
Would it not have been easier to chuck up the sleeves in a lathe and dress them down to fit the bores?
@@squatch253 I would not turn them with a tool. You are correct in that alignment would be difficult. I would have just used a file and paper to polish to fit. Anyway you did what was best for you and that's what counts in the end. I just had this feeling that it might be better to modify the replaceable part than the block which was fine originally. Cheers and keep up the good work. By the way I'm a full time pro machinist for 40+years.
Why not put the sleeves in the freezer?
Oh yea.
So, the Farmall H doesn’t have copper crush washers under the rim of the cylinder liner like the D3400?
No need, it's a dry sleeve.
Do you honestly think that these two guys would miss something as crucial as "crush washers"!? It is obvious you haven't watched past videos and the craftsmanship they put into their builds.
Paul Copeland no, I did not think they failed to install a required part, I was just wondering what the difference was in engine design that required/did not need the copper crush washers under the cylinder liner rims. The D3400 will probably have higher compression cycles and that could be the difference. There might be a difference in how the head seats on the liner rims. I have watched everything they have posted and enjoyed it all, and stacked tons of knowledge on equipment overhauls that I will never use. I am “hot”on the D2 because one of the first books I read in middle school was “Bulldozer!” By Stephen W. Meader, that featured a WWII vet that pulled a D2 out of a pond in upstate Maine after buying it for salvage, got it running with the help of a mechanic friend and built an earthmoving business through honest hard work, and he got the girl as well!
@@charlesward8196 ...Excellent! It just seemed odd to question their process. Have a good day, sir.
Squatch253 Thank you so much for clarifying that point. Love the videos!
Did anybody else have trouble with the governor video for the D2 I could only watch half and then it kept saying something went wrong tap to retry but it didn’t work
Paul Breaks I had the same thing happen.
Ok thanks
I hit retry and it worked for me then.
Are you going to warm the block and chill the sleeves?
Thanks
Dennis Williams watch the video!
heat the block and freeze the sleeves,I never install dry sleeves without freezing the overnight
@@squatch253 well of course you hone the block but to minimal interference, it is a pressed fit,ie.002, Freezing does work you lacked the experience, but don't feel bad we have all cracked a thin wall sleeve
@@squatch253 if they cracked it was either wrong sleeves or you put them in wrong, Freezing does work you had a different problem.
Is that a MD or a MTD cause im am wondering why you are putting diesel liners in an M
What makes you think those are diesel liners?
@@ShainAndrews because i only ever seen them type liners used in internationals diesels all the gas engine were wet sleeved or aparent bore
Farmall H and M gasoline/distillate engines, the C152 and C248 and their descendants, are dry sleeve engines. A, B, C C113 and C123 engines are wet sleeve. Farmall Cub is not sleeved at all.
With the ridges u would not get proper heat transfer
I know you think my idea of freezing them was dumb, but it how we get outer races in semi truck wheels done for years, I will keep my stupid comments to myself.
@@squatch253 Experience wins always!
Do you follow Abom79 channel? I think you could hear is opinion about thoes oval sleves... just my thougths!