To leave the paint sealed onto the glass and keep moisture out, I've found that I can lay a flat edge (wide putty knife, flat piece of metal, etc) against the glass and push a razor blade (in holder) along it to leave maybe 1/16" of paint on the glass. The longer the paint has dried (and if there's a primer on exterior windows) the harder I have to push the razor, but lightly misting with water (spray bottle) softens the paint so the razor slices right through, and lubricates to prevent scratches on glass, ....but too much water on too fresh paint will soften it too much and then the razor messes it up...so experiment and 'dial it in'. I'm NOT a pro at all, but I smoked through overwhelming amounts of window panes (100's) using this basic method, and I can't think of anything that would've worked better. I've done interior and exterior, and I modify my exact methods to suit each particular area. (fwiw I also don't re-glaze anymore, our old houses aren't worth the hassle, I do light prep and use Peel Stop Triple Thick (or Lead Defender for lead paint) and rubbery caulk like Big Stretch to quickly glue the old/jacked/cracked putty into a solid waterproof flexible mass, moving fast and getting the products onto the glass, then razor trim at end to look just about perfect. The glazing is all bumpy, and gets dirtier than flat glazing would, but you don't really notice too much unless up close, and we just "embrace the crookedness" on our old houses. We've got a casual SoCal vibe here, just want the houses to look decent and be waterproof!!, ....and greatly prefer time spent on fun/family/friends/LIFE 😁
So many here saying taping +/ scraping paint is easier. Makes me wonder how many have taped and/or scraped paint. It's a lot more fiddly than just a score and peel. This stuff looks like it could be a huge time saver if you have a lot of windows to paint. Other than drying time, it looks much faster than taping, and much easier than scraping, and with a nice result.
I'm not a painter but I've apartments and a circa 1870 house. I've painted thousands of panes of glass. I simply paint 1/2 to 3/4" over the glass, hold a metal ruler vertically, use a single edge razor to cut a line (an ounce of pressure is all that's needed) then use a single edge razor blade and slice under the paint. It usually comes up in one or two pieces. Though this could be done exactly the same way, but frankly I think it'd take longer. Good perhaps if you're not good with a razor blade. In cold climates where you might have interior condensation in winter I recommend using the vertical ruler method as it leaves a 1/32-1/16" "ledge" of paint which prevents condensation from reaching the wood. If you use either method and cut right against the edge of the wood muntin, the condensation will seep into the wood and in a year or two, the paint will lift and peel. It's a neat product, I'll have to try it and see which method I like the best.
S Flynn ... Excellent guidance. I totally agree with you about leaving a “seal” against the glass to hold moisture out of the wood or glazing putty. In my climate there is freezing and thawing that will most certainly do damage if moisture gets into the wood or under the glazing.
If you tape it you shouldn't have to scrape it so I don't know why they're taking it scraping there's common sense and then there's the tapers and scrapers tape caulk peel oh I'm sorry tape caulk paint peel
I love TOH ... However, I have been a painter for 23 years, I can free hand 5-8 of those windows x2 coats in the 4 1/2 hours waiting time... If we are talking 20+ windows then yes I would use the product.. depends on the size of the job. This product will lose money on a small job but make money on a big job.
Considering that the window was taken off layed flat so you didn't have that plastic material dripping down the window frame. And kind of just self-leveled over the glass take that into consideration that you had to dismantle the window and I didn't see a closet picture of it I would have liked to have seen the straight line it's only as straight as you're cutting it I think it's faster just to tape it
My main concern with this stuff would be adhesion. If it doesn't stick to the glass, then over time water will seep in below it and potentially cause peeling or timber damage due to moisture.
This was my thought, I was imagining running the razor around, same, but then scraping the latex paint off as you mention, I'm NOT a painter btw, hate it
Excellent comment and in cold climates if you ever see condensation inside, the same goes for the inside. Use a 6" metal ruler held on edge with one hand, and slice with the other. Then lift and you'll have your 1mm ledger of paint.
Whenever I see the pros do this they always come back with a tiny artist brush and go around everything really fast again getting a bond to the glass. It's easy to do free hand and not make a mess with such a tiny brush. Just a little brush and usually a cleaned out soda can with paint.
Nobody else is talking about this important step. Following the video and razor perfect trimming will leave all those windows vulnerable to moisture seepage. Oops!
So....... we did this last summer on our cabin's 192 window panes! We were so excited and they looked BEAUTIFUL!!!! When we returned to the cabin 2 days ago I was in tears----all the paint had peeled away and looked like they had been reglazed and painted 40 years ago--- not last fall. Please help me to understand why? I can provide pictures!
I'm a retired professional window cleaner and I could use a single edge razor blade between thumb and index finger and have one of those panes with half inch over run cleaned quicker than it took him to paint that stuff on
Have tried that product and personally would not use it. The product could certainly be used for some situations but don't think you can overlap the timber along with the glass and expect that product to act in the same way as a paint on the wood side. You also should not run a sharp blade along the glass in that manner as you very easily score the glass and make that line a break zone. Most painters will do the job in the fastest possible way so it looks good till the bill gets paid, but long term their jobs look crap.
You're so right about: "fastest way so it looks good till the bill gets paid." It's very hard to find anyone that does a perfect job and doesn't cost a fortune.
As a tradesman it’s also hard to find customers who are actually happy to pay a decent wage for a decent job. As opposed to the norm of them wanting a 1st class finish and wanting to pay peanuts.
Takes a few minutes to prep per square. Don't have to worry about the razor knife cutting into the wood. Most painters would only use this in a spray appljcation in which there is dozens of squares if not more than one hundred but then they still have to be careful not to cut the wood with a knife.
I guess it would be worth it to just spend one day and come in and two coat everything with the liquid mask. Then come in and spray the hell out of everything. Don’t forget to liquid mask any though because that would be one hell of a mess to clean off if you accidentally sprayed a window that wasn’t prepped..lol
So a glossy plastic base which forms a sheet and easily peels off glass is supposed to be a primer too... ill let everyone else try it first so they can get the call backs. I can see quite a few ways this stuff could fuck up.
It's a novel idea, but four hours is too long.. You can get acrylic primers which dry in 30 minutes nowadays, surely there should be some quicker drying version, I could cut them all in by hand less than a quarter of the drying time..
Wait 30 minutes, then wait 4 hours, then spend more time scoring and peeling. in that four hours you could learn how to paint to the line, and get both sides of that sash painted in 25 minutes. Here's how: th-cam.com/video/pXiDm6u_CWM/w-d-xo.html
I want to spray paint my kitchen chairs, but I don't want to paint the seat. With so many wrungs I thought it would be too hard to tape up, including the bottom under section of the chairs. Can I put this on wood too and then spray paint the chairs and later peel off the clear masking?
For me I would rather scrape paint off the glass rather than apply this product 30 min. for one coat then wait 4 hours for a total of 4 1/2 hours til you can paint
jessy, that's what I do. I don't slop paint all over but I make sure to seal the glass to the wood and bonanztool, that is the best way because the glass gets sealed to the wood.
When scraping the paint off of the glass panes are we able to ensure that it doesn't scratch the glass? And is scratching the glass more possible on new or old or glass? We are trying to find a faster way to paint tons of multiple paned windows. Even though we try to scrape as little as possible, I am always worried about scratching the glass.
If you press hard with a knife it will scratch the glass. But you only need one ounce to cut the edge. That will never scratch the glass. Moh's hardness of glass is 5.5. The hardness of steel knives range from 5-6, so yes, some would scratch but not if you are gentle.
Really depends on how many windows you are painting. This technique will save many hours if you are doing all the windows in a house and other painting as well.
I agree with a lot of other commenters here. 4.5 hours of prep time doesn't sound like it's saving me time. From 5 minutes of masking with tape or 3 minutes of scraping paint off the glass after painting. However, if this can be applied with a sprayer, I can see how a professional painting crew would love it.
It's clearly a product for people who are not good at painting or have no experience. The typical guy with handyman experience of some kind would definitely be better off just scraping with a razor. This is a good option for someone wanting to save money by not hiring someone and doing the work theirselves, because then the extra wait time is worth the money saved atleast.
I find it hard to believe that a pro would use that silly masking stuff. It triples the work time by having to painstakingly cut in around the glass - TWO times - then wait for it to dry. Better to cut in with paint one time and scrape a little later. Some pros even deliberately paint on the glass claiming it seals the pane, then scrape.
My philosophy is you don't want to seal wood. You want to let it be able to dry. So why I went with a breathable paint. Such as Benjamin Moore w103 but it's easy just to scrape off the glad the same way
Cute but an expensive waste of time. Probably the best of these products go for $70/gln or so. William Smith and Nick got it right in their comments. And you're painting the grille twice for one coat by this method, plus the drying and peeling process, when all you need is a sharp putty knife, a rag, and a razor blade for cleanup. I don't even think it would pay off on big jobs. Just a heck of a lot more satisfying with sprayers for both masking and paint. Hooking a little fish with a big lure.
Product is also a primer. Scraping glass sucks plus the cleanup after, this product makes nice clean lines. Just got the product and helped immensely while redoing a hardwood door and side windows.
@@gerritvictor1110 he literally said the one who is the boss would not be happy about it and for a fact any boss wouldn't be... 4.5 hours til you can paint? You'd be fired if you weren't the boss and out of business if you were.
wait so I have to put this stuff on the window, wait 4.5 hours then paint the trim? what's the difference if I'm still spending time waiting then painting?
This doesn't add up. The time you spend on extra step and drying far exceeds simple scrape with razor. This feels like a Pinterest / Martha Stewart thing and not practical
da hell? just paint the frame, splash as much as you like on the glass and then razor it off. can you cut in closer than a razor? been painting since you were in Baghdad and its the quickest way. you weren't in Baghdad but you were in your dad's bag.
i don't like it. i've watched a few youtube videos where it's sprayed onto the wood, the grill work, and then they spray paint over it all. then remove the liquid masking from the glass, but leave the liquid masking on the wood, with the paint over it. i can't see spending time and money of a product that you throw away, when you can just paint with a brush, and do just as nice a job. this product doesn't save you any time. by the time you put two coats of liquid nails, and wait four hours to paint, i'll be home sleeping, and the pain will even be dry. i challenge that guy to a painting contest on that show. this is an official challenge.
To leave the paint sealed onto the glass and keep moisture out, I've found that I can lay a flat edge (wide putty knife, flat piece of metal, etc) against the glass and push a razor blade (in holder) along it to leave maybe 1/16" of paint on the glass. The longer the paint has dried (and if there's a primer on exterior windows) the harder I have to push the razor, but lightly misting with water (spray bottle) softens the paint so the razor slices right through, and lubricates to prevent scratches on glass, ....but too much water on too fresh paint will soften it too much and then the razor messes it up...so experiment and 'dial it in'. I'm NOT a pro at all, but I smoked through overwhelming amounts of window panes (100's) using this basic method, and I can't think of anything that would've worked better. I've done interior and exterior, and I modify my exact methods to suit each particular area.
(fwiw I also don't re-glaze anymore, our old houses aren't worth the hassle, I do light prep and use Peel Stop Triple Thick (or Lead Defender for lead paint) and rubbery caulk like Big Stretch to quickly glue the old/jacked/cracked putty into a solid waterproof flexible mass, moving fast and getting the products onto the glass, then razor trim at end to look just about perfect. The glazing is all bumpy, and gets dirtier than flat glazing would, but you don't really notice too much unless up close, and we just "embrace the crookedness" on our old houses. We've got a casual SoCal vibe here, just want the houses to look decent and be waterproof!!, ....and greatly prefer time spent on fun/family/friends/LIFE 😁
This is a game changer for me!
Robin Lewis n
So many here saying taping +/ scraping paint is easier. Makes me wonder how many have taped and/or scraped paint. It's a lot more fiddly than just a score and peel.
This stuff looks like it could be a huge time saver if you have a lot of windows to paint. Other than drying time, it looks much faster than taping, and much easier than scraping, and with a nice result.
I'm not a painter but I've apartments and a circa 1870 house. I've painted thousands of panes of glass. I simply paint 1/2 to 3/4" over the glass, hold a metal ruler vertically, use a single edge razor to cut a line (an ounce of pressure is all that's needed) then use a single edge razor blade and slice under the paint. It usually comes up in one or two pieces. Though this could be done exactly the same way, but frankly I think it'd take longer. Good perhaps if you're not good with a razor blade. In cold climates where you might have interior condensation in winter I recommend using the vertical ruler method as it leaves a 1/32-1/16" "ledge" of paint which prevents condensation from reaching the wood. If you use either method and cut right against the edge of the wood muntin, the condensation will seep into the wood and in a year or two, the paint will lift and peel. It's a neat product, I'll have to try it and see which method I like the best.
S Flynn ... Excellent guidance. I totally agree with you about leaving a “seal” against the glass to hold moisture out of the wood or glazing putty. In my climate there is freezing and thawing that will most certainly do damage if moisture gets into the wood or under the glazing.
If you tape it you shouldn't have to scrape it so I don't know why they're taking it scraping there's common sense and then there's the tapers and scrapers tape caulk peel oh I'm sorry tape caulk paint peel
I love TOH ... However, I have been a painter for 23 years, I can free hand 5-8 of those windows x2 coats in the 4 1/2 hours waiting time... If we are talking 20+ windows then yes I would use the product.. depends on the size of the job. This product will lose money on a small job but make money on a big job.
Considering that the window was taken off layed flat so you didn't have that plastic material dripping down the window frame. And kind of just self-leveled over the glass take that into consideration that you had to dismantle the window and I didn't see a closet picture of it I would have liked to have seen the straight line it's only as straight as you're cutting it I think it's faster just to tape it
Not sure why I even watch the videos. All the expert advice is in the comment section. Ha!
My main concern with this stuff would be adhesion. If it doesn't stick to the glass, then over time water will seep in below it and potentially cause peeling or timber damage due to moisture.
It's not meant to stay on the glass. It's only painted on as a plastic masking product and removed after painting. You didn't watch the entire video?
@@age_of_reason you only remove the excess. Otherwise it will stay there as a coating underneath the paint.
I've always just been able to use latex paint and when it dries you can just scrape it right off the window. Don't need to tape or anything
This was my thought, I was imagining running the razor around, same, but then scraping the latex paint off as you mention, I'm NOT a painter btw, hate it
I love both of these shows
Outside glass paint should go ~1mm over the glass to be sealead waterproof.
Excellent comment and in cold climates if you ever see condensation inside, the same goes for the inside. Use a 6" metal ruler held on edge with one hand, and slice with the other. Then lift and you'll have your 1mm ledger of paint.
Absolutely correct and mostly not done.
Whenever I see the pros do this they always come back with a tiny artist brush and go around everything really fast again getting a bond to the glass. It's easy to do free hand and not make a mess with such a tiny brush. Just a little brush and usually a cleaned out soda can with paint.
only on traditional single glaze windows do cut onto glass
Nobody else is talking about this important step. Following the video and razor perfect trimming will leave all those windows vulnerable to moisture seepage. Oops!
Use a sharp putty knife to edge lines and wipe after each brush, then scrape glass with razor.
Kevin is such a great guy he gave this man the shirt off his back
So....... we did this last summer on our cabin's 192 window panes! We were so excited and they looked BEAUTIFUL!!!! When we returned to the cabin 2 days ago I was in tears----all the paint had peeled away and looked like they had been reglazed and painted 40 years ago--- not last fall. Please help me to understand why? I can provide pictures!
It’s because you need the paint to lap over the glass at least a mm for a weather seal
What is your comment supposed to be? Strike through, 'last fall'?
I always buy new windows because Everybody knows better! There is not one way but many ways to paint windows. He shows a good way.
I'm a retired professional window cleaner and I could use a single edge razor blade between thumb and index finger and have one of those panes with half inch over run cleaned quicker than it took him to paint that stuff on
What's your point?
Have tried that product and personally would not use it. The product could certainly be used for some situations but don't think you can overlap the timber along with the glass and expect that product to act in the same way as a paint on the wood side. You also should not run a sharp blade along the glass in that manner as you very easily score the glass and make that line a break zone. Most painters will do the job in the fastest possible way so it looks good till the bill gets paid, but long term their jobs look crap.
You're so right about: "fastest way so it looks good till the bill gets paid." It's very hard to find anyone that does a perfect job and doesn't cost a fortune.
As a tradesman it’s also hard to find customers who are actually happy to pay a decent wage for a decent job. As opposed to the norm of them wanting a 1st class finish and wanting to pay peanuts.
What’s the product called? Can you find this at HD?
you can just razor blade the paint off the glass works just as well..
All you people that are complaining that this is a waste of time. Remember, there is more then 1 way to do everything.
To do one or two windows it its, but if you are doing a whole house, well worth it.
Takes a few minutes to prep per square. Don't have to worry about the razor knife cutting into the wood. Most painters would only use this in a spray appljcation in which there is dozens of squares if not more than one hundred but then they still have to be careful not to cut the wood with a knife.
nice stuff to play with on-site whilst waiting for home time.
Why did they liquid mask the entire glass pane? It seems to me that applying a brush width or about 4" is adequate around the perimeter of the glass.
You are right, this is a game changer!
Awesome indeed!
WHAT IS THE NAME OF THAT STUFF ?
The brand they used is called FastMasQ
...and it needs to be ordered to a Home Depot. Not in the store. :-(
I guess it would be worth it to just spend one day and come in and two coat everything with the liquid mask. Then come in and spray the hell out of everything. Don’t forget to liquid mask any though because that would be one hell of a mess to clean off if you accidentally sprayed a window that wasn’t prepped..lol
I'm missing the name of the product and where to buy it. Help please.
So a glossy plastic base which forms a sheet and easily peels off glass is supposed to be a primer too... ill let everyone else try it first so they can get the call backs. I can see quite a few ways this stuff could fuck up.
I like the way you paint.you are a very good painter.
I am indian painter , can I get a job?
good job
looked worth a try but can't find it available in the uk
Can this stuff be sprayed on? Just coat the entire window with it.
don't think so. it essentially hardens to a plastic coating...you wouldn't want that on your frame
It's a novel idea, but four hours is too long.. You can get acrylic primers which dry in 30 minutes nowadays, surely there should be some quicker drying version, I could cut them all in by hand less than a quarter of the drying time..
wait, so the fact that it peels right off the glass doesnt worry anyone that it could peel off the wood too? especially prepainted wood?
So while you wait 4 hrs to let second coat dry you go to bar or take a nap..
Wait 30 minutes, then wait 4 hours, then spend more time scoring and peeling. in that four hours you could learn how to paint to the line, and get both sides of that sash painted in 25 minutes. Here's how: th-cam.com/video/pXiDm6u_CWM/w-d-xo.html
John I feel like you are a celebrity appearance in the comments
I want to spray paint my kitchen chairs, but I don't want to paint the seat. With so many wrungs I thought it would be too hard to tape up, including the bottom under section of the chairs. Can I put this on wood too and then spray paint the chairs and later peel off the clear masking?
it is a primer...so, I would guess NO....
pointless for a few windows if brushing. i could tape and 3 coat in the same time but great for biggerjobs and spray it on
what the name of masking liquid sir?
For me I would rather scrape paint off the glass rather than apply this product 30 min. for one coat then wait 4 hours for a total of 4 1/2 hours til you can paint
Why not just prime and paint and use scraper on glass
jessy, that's what I do. I don't slop paint all over but I make sure to seal the glass to the wood and bonanztool, that is the best way because the glass gets sealed to the wood.
@@augustreil same here, I agree.
this stuffs are cool
When scraping the paint off of the glass panes are we able to ensure that it doesn't scratch the glass? And is scratching the glass more possible on new or old or glass? We are trying to find a faster way to paint tons of multiple paned windows. Even though we try to scrape as little as possible, I am always worried about scratching the glass.
If you press hard with a knife it will scratch the glass. But you only need one ounce to cut the edge. That will never scratch the glass. Moh's hardness of glass is 5.5. The hardness of steel knives range from 5-6, so yes, some would scratch but not if you are gentle.
Use a tiny thin plastic knife, steel blade. You don't need that big one.
Does it protect from the sand paper? ( product on the glass )
Waste of time. Just paint all the wood and use a flat razor to scrape the excess off the glass.
This is what I've been doing for years.
Really depends on how many windows you are painting. This technique will save many hours if you are doing all the windows in a house and other painting as well.
Whatever happened to painters who knew how to cut a straight line? I'd have two windows done by the time he got to putting his primer coat on.
Eric wolsieffer
Skilled labor has been replaced by cheap labor.
I agree with a lot of other commenters here. 4.5 hours of prep time doesn't sound like it's saving me time. From 5 minutes of masking with tape or 3 minutes of scraping paint off the glass after painting. However, if this can be applied with a sprayer, I can see how a professional painting crew would love it.
So why didnt you give us the NAME of the masking liquid? We cant follow this procedure if we don't know what product to buy. Sigh.
I believe this is the product. www.homedepot.com/p/FastMasQ-1-qt-Liquid-Masking-Tape-Interior-Exterior-Primer-890704000006/311991186
Look at amazon “masking liquid”. 1 qt is less than $30.
So over 4 hours of waiting for it to cure.. How is this faster than just using good masking tape? :D
Details about that plastic
so you're trading 1 hour of work for 5 hours of waiting time and half on hour of work ?
It's clearly a product for people who are not good at painting or have no experience. The typical guy with handyman experience of some kind would definitely be better off just scraping with a razor. This is a good option for someone wanting to save money by not hiring someone and doing the work theirselves, because then the extra wait time is worth the money saved atleast.
White on white on white sure hides any problems.
I find it hard to believe that a pro would use that silly masking stuff. It triples the work time by having to painstakingly cut in around the glass - TWO times - then wait for it to dry. Better to cut in with paint one time and scrape a little later. Some pros even deliberately paint on the glass claiming it seals the pane, then scrape.
Does this seal glazing compounded window panes properly though in old houses?
My philosophy is you don't want to seal wood. You want to let it be able to dry. So why I went with a breathable paint. Such as Benjamin Moore w103 but it's easy just to scrape off the glad the same way
Masking Liquid H2O by Associated Products
Cute but an expensive waste of time. Probably the best of these products go for $70/gln or so. William Smith and Nick got it right in their comments. And you're painting the grille twice for one coat by this method, plus the drying and peeling process, when all you need is a sharp putty knife, a rag, and a razor blade for cleanup. I don't even think it would pay off on big jobs. Just a heck of a lot more satisfying with sprayers for both masking and paint. Hooking a little fish with a big lure.
Product is also a primer. Scraping glass sucks plus the cleanup after, this product makes nice clean lines. Just got the product and helped immensely while redoing a hardwood door and side windows.
How about showing how to do it out here in the real world. On an extension ladder, in mid August, sun beating down on you, sweat dripping in your eyes, insects of some kind buzzing your head, 15 feet off the ground. Oh, and boss man yelling to hurry the F#©% up!
I think I'll paint and scrape. Just sayin.
How to do it out here in the real world? I can tell why you are not the Boss Man!
Just saying . . .😉
@@gerritvictor1110 not even a painter bud
@@gerritvictor1110 just sayin🖕
@@andrewrigozzi1745 😆😆😆😗😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆
@@gerritvictor1110 he literally said the one who is the boss would not be happy about it and for a fact any boss wouldn't be... 4.5 hours til you can paint? You'd be fired if you weren't the boss and out of business if you were.
wait so I have to put this stuff on the window, wait 4.5 hours then paint the trim? what's the difference if I'm still spending time waiting then painting?
Labor hours vs free hours.
I AGREE WITH WILLIAM SMITH
This doesn't add up. The time you spend on extra step and drying far exceeds simple scrape with razor. This feels like a Pinterest / Martha Stewart thing and not practical
And you end up with a free dental dam! Bonus!
da hell? just paint the frame, splash as much as you like on the glass and then razor it off. can you cut in closer than a razor? been painting since you were in Baghdad and its the quickest way. you weren't in Baghdad but you were in your dad's bag.
save a lot of time, but wait for hours to cure
i don't like it. i've watched a few youtube videos where it's sprayed onto the wood, the grill work, and then they spray paint over it all. then remove the liquid masking from the glass, but leave the liquid masking on the wood, with the paint over it.
i can't see spending time and money of a product that you throw away, when you can just paint with a brush, and do just as nice a job. this product doesn't save you any time. by the time you put two coats of liquid nails, and wait four hours to paint, i'll be home sleeping, and the pain will even be dry. i challenge that guy to a painting contest on that show. this is an official challenge.
Thi SOLD house
.la vang roi hoang oanh
...how many hrs???? no, will take off and go without. no thanks.
LMAO this is soooooo sloooow. Give me a quality sash brush and I'll run circles around you.
''
That is one exceptionally annoying accent