I work in construction and decorators always seem to be at the bottom of the pile, earning the least, and yet, it's these guys that actually makes any job look the way it does. No one, walks into a finished job and says, 'wow, the first fix electrics look's amazing'. A brilliant decorator i know can paint one wall in black, the other in white, and the join where they meet is bullet straight, and he does it in seconds. Absolute perfectly straight. You try it. These guys need way, way more credit.
There’s nothing super hard in the trade for sure, but come do some high pressure sand blasting on a pipeline or a big plant in an industrial setting. Or have to spray finicky coats in super cramped odd angles etc. There’s a fair bit of skill to it too. Commercial painting is fairly straightforward though
I’ve done all my own painting for years and had picked up on most of what you said through trial and error and experience. One thing I never knew though, was to wet your brush first. I always thought a brush had to be completely dry. And now that I know that it’s ok to wash your brush mid- job, my cleanups will be MUCH easier. Thanks.
@Clay Fox Nope. Dip it and shake it out by hitting ferrule on the edge of a bucket. Excess water will be gone, paint will come off brush better and the brush will be far easier to clean.
I am with you. Never realized that you can wet brush before starting. Nor did I realize that you can wash the brush mid job. Did you know that you can urethane the handle of your new brushes to keep paint removal easy?
Great teacher.... love the video.... the kid is sharp and motivating.. As a long time painting contractor i was taught many years ago not to use a paint can to paint out of, instead use a paint pot.... also never wipe the brush but instead load it and tap it on the side of the pot to maximize the load... Lastly on the ceiling cut sometimes its good to lay on an underline of paint about an inch below where you cut then cut. As the brush travels it picks up the underline and distributes more evenly.
My father, who was a professional painter, taught me your cutting methods. I had to watch to see if you were doing it to the quality expectations he had for me. You were. He taught me in the 1950's and watched over to ensure I was doing it correctly. Same thing with rolling the wall. There was the wrong way to roll and the way he learned in his trade school after he returned after WWII. Thanks for continuing the fine tradition. He would have approved. He also taught me the correct way to wallpaper a room. He was a master and did papering and murals in numerous lovely homes in our hometown.
You make me so happy, because I am self taught and I do exactly what you do...my husband yells at me all the time for not taping, even tho I tested him to see if he could tell which wall was taped and he failed. I am making him watch this video. 👍
Agreed, I find I get better results from cutting in without tape! During the learning curve I was carrying a metal scraper and a wet cloth to tidy up as I went where I messed up cutting in but doesn’t take long to get the hang of it!
Professional brush and roll teams do not use tape. Tape is generally used for Faux finishes that have a lot of layers of plaster and other materials. I would not do Faux without it!
Mike's Painting Service - A good general video for beginners. Respectful tips: Don't scrape the brush on the side's of the can. Dip the brush about 3/8" inch, then tap it on the inside to load the brush with paint. Scraping will eventually start curling the brush hairs also. When applying, instead of painting completely straight with your line, try about a 30 degree angle, and get your brush hairs cutting a perfect line. Righty's usually go from left to right, and lefties the opposite. I use those hand held paint pots with liner's....the best. The term is, "Picture Framing." Don't make your paint line too wide, or you will see it when you roll the rest out. In a bathroom, you should prime it first, because of the high moisture. I use "Gripper." There are also oil base sealers, but they take longer, but work excellent. But over-all Ben, as usual...good job. I watch your video's every day, and learn.
This comment made me smile in agreement. I was crawling watching him cut in left to right. I'm mainly right handed but cut in right to left. I can't see that changing as it works for me. But most decorators are good with either hand and flip the brush either way depending on what's needed. While I'm still crawling at cutting in left to right, irony is I paint woodwork left to right. Love that after many years decorating, you still keep learning. Last comment was I didn't feel he feathered enough. The hard line was only kind of broken,
@@NormanRamsey Don't tap anything. Dip the end of the bristles in the paint about a 1/2 to 1 inch, then shake off back into the can by kind of slinging it down off the brush. This loads up the brush. Don't touch the sides or the rim. That's how I was taught to do it when I worked on a paint crew during the summers while in college.
I love this guy. He is so smart. So genuine and so charming. This is the reason why youtube exists. No other reason. Keep making videos and keep those trolls away my good mate. Cheers.
Hey Ben, As someone who doesn't do this for a living but does do a lot of this in my homes. We just bought a house that needs a lot of painting. Your tips and tricks have definitely helped working with patching and working with mud. Thank you!
At 79 years old, I actually believe I can follow your instructions and paint my little guestroom before my guest arrives in a few weeks! I really like the little painters stool you use. I will get one of those those. Thanks!
My daddy ran his own painting company ,following in his daddy's footsteps as did his brothers . I can hear my daddy's voice watching this video giving his directions and his corrections . He painted indoor ,outdoor ,barns ,fence ,roofs ,heavy equipment,and mining equipment. You name it ,he and his crew would paint it . When painting with brush or roller ,he would say "Put you some paint in the roller I can hear from over here ." "Dip that brush ,little further than that now you got it ". Anywhere we went ,he would point at something and say Me and your uncle Randy painted that or I painted that with my daddy when I was about 13. Miss him ,his stories and advice .
Veteran painter here. Good tips especially the wetting of the brush. However after wetting you need to spin out the water by hand or by knocking against your shoe for instance. Also, the cut-in bucket grip is essential, you just cannot drop a bucket with the pro-grip. Here's a tip; instead of swiping the brush against the rim of the cut-in bucket, press it against the inner wall of the bucket, then swipe just one side of the brush. The swipe is used mostly to straighten the bristles. Here's another tip: about 20 years ago I discovered that a Folgers plastic coffee container grips a 2 1/2" brush just like the magnet in your commercial bucket. Snap it into the grip area of the Folgers container, it's pretty good in a pinch. Usually I lay the paint on 1/2" from my target, then move that paint 1/4" closer, then into the edge with a tilted backwards swipe and finish with a light forward swipe. Cleaning up in the customer's sink and leaving a mess is always a good move.
Oh no, I hate coffee. I'd have to find someone to buy Folgers and drink it first. And unlucky me, most coffee drinkers I know are coffee snobs and wouldn't drink Folgers. Maybe I'll just buy some and pour it out in my garden so I can have the container 😉
@@Rajiihammr: I hope they didn’t pay you by the hour, lol. 1/2”, 1/4”, target - 3 times the work for 1 result. But I was actually referring to your suggestion that it’s ok to leave a mess in the customer’s sink and I can assure you it is NOT ok and will get you thrown off most job sites. The customer should be able to tell you’ve been there by the work done, not the mess left behind, plus it’s a simple and professional matter to store your brushes and rollers in airtight bags for reuse the next day or to take home for cleaning or disposal. Happy painting!
@@rayray8687 Apparently you didn't catch the VC's sarcasm about cleaning up in the customers sink at the 9:00 min. mark. There is no such thing as cutting in with one swipe. A pro does not apply directly on the ceiling line. The 1/2" swipe takes 3sec. in a 2foot swipe, return with brush held backwards with 1/4" swipe and finish with the ceiling swipe. All done in seconds. If you discount the technique, then you haven't tried it. I know what I'm talking about. And pay closer attention to the video watch out for sarcasm.
Thanks for making the video, I enjoyed it! A HUGE yes to buying quality brushes. I used mainly Sherwin Williams brushes for most of my pro career, but have since also used the better Purdy and Wooster brushes, and most recently Corona brushes (I cut in with either a 2.5 or 3.5 angled sash). Good quality brushes perform better, and if you take care of them last almost forever (I have several Sher Will brushes that are over 30 years old and still work great). YES to cleaning your brushes throughout the day. I use a small length of 2"X10", a wire brush, dish detergent (Palmolive, Dawn, whatever), warm water and a brush comb. If I'm storing the paintbrushes long-term, I spray the bristles with WD-40, comb it in with the brush comb, and put it in the shaper. The WD-40 carrier evaporates, leaving a light film on the bristles that helps keep them soft. YES, to tapping the brush on the inside of your cutting can rather than scraping the sides on the top edges. Tapping the brush gets rid of the excess paint but keeps the brush fully loaded for maximum efficiency. YES to coating wooden brush handles with urethane so they're easier to clean. YES to dampening your brushes before using them (although I don't always do that). However, if I pre-wet them, I get almost ALL the water out by spinning them between my hands before I use them (otherwise the water will run down off the brush onto your hand, arm etc). I always spin my brushes rather than tap them, on the brushes edge, on a bucket. Tapping them tends to loosen the ferrule over time whereas spinning them does not. YES to almost always thinning your paint or using Floetrol (latex paint - the paint spreads better and you get better coverage). YES to rubbing baby oil into any exposed skin that might get paint on it. Any dried paint basically just wipes off when you're cleaning up. YES to always using a good quality paint. And finally when it comes to stain blocking primers nothing can beat BIN Shellac based primer from Zinsser. It's expensive, but because it's alcohol-based the smell is tolerable, and it literally dries in like 15 minutes. Good luck y'all, have fun!
I’m 40 years old re-learning slappies and paint tricks from the same dude. Btw: my kid and I love watching you and @giftedhater keep doing those collabs!!!!!
Pro Tips: I was a painter for awhile and have done a lot of my own home reno painting. I was taught to never wipe the brush on the paint can lip. You're scraping all the paint off that you want to deliver to the wall, and I was told it causes the brush to lose it's shape and get fuzzy. As shown, use a can with only an inch or two of paint. Dip the brush and quickly slap it back and forth a couple of times on the sides of the can (inside the can). This fluffs up the brush, charging the INSIDE of the brush with paint and leaves less paint on the outside of the brush to drip. The paint inside the brush is much less likely to drip off than paint hanging on the outside. You can heavily charge the brush and it won't drip, at least for a few seconds while you're moving the brush to the wall. Then if you're doing detailed work like cutting, and your newly charged brush looks like it might drip, "dump" part of the load of paint along the the line you are about to paint, i.e. just quickly dab it or brush it to put the excess paint aside for a moment while you start the cut. Then you can pick up that extra paint while moving along the cut line without going back to the can. If you're using latex/acrylic paint (which is pretty much all that is used now), don't try to do all the cutting in a room first, and then do the rolling. The cutting paint will start to dry after a few minutes and will skin over or dry enough to leave edge lines, brush marks, as VC showed in the video. I cut as much as I can reach from my stool, and then roll that area, then cut the next area, and roll that area. Another important thing when painting is to learn do the 'painter's shuffle'. When moving around the room that has open paint cans, open paint trays etc on the floor, if you need to move your feet and when you're looking up and can't watch where you are stepping, you gingerly SLIDE your feet like a ballerina, so you don't step into or kick over a paint tray or bucket.
I didn't read all of your comment but I can tell you that you suck at painting. Call a professional painter you tasteless hack. Your poor tenants shouldn't have to live in what looks like a third-world country. Keep in mind it's just my opinion but I'm usually always right
@@elmerdane I'm a general contractor and been around pro painters all my life and YOU ARE RIGHT.! Never wipe the brush.. Taking all the paint out and it will drip... Tapping on each side of can will keep the brush full and will never drip....
That last tip is actually the tip I was hoping for. Washing your brush about every hour. I have found my brush getting so saturated if painting for long time. Thank you. That is when a brush 'spinner/dryer' would really be helpful.
I use hair conditioner on my brushes every few uses. It helps restore the bristles to like new. It also helps release the paint when cleaning them out.
Thank you so much for doing this video. I've watched a bunch by other painters and you're the only one who explains what's he's doing and why and shows us. So helpful.
I am thanking you BIG TIME for your videos which have educated me immensely. You present techniques and tips simply and coherently. I was updating 2 rooms in a 100 year old section of our house, which included weeks of paint stripping and staining some key wood elements in our Kraftsman house and painting walls and the MANY window and door frames in these rooms. It is almost finished (awaiting insulation installation this week), but I watched so many of your videos for this major project that my husband got tired of hearing my lauds about you and your channel. Big gratitude to you! Keep on doing these videos for us DIYers with frugal husbands who are unwilling to hire for jobs their wife learned how to do from you!!!
When we moved into our house 6 years ago, i painted my entire house basement to 2nd floor myself, it took 3 full days. Because i knew how to use the heel of the brush i was able to skip the taping part and get perfectly straight lines. Cutting is the most crucial part of any.paint project
This video has been tremendously helpful to me while painting the exterior of my house. Your suggestions have not only saved me money but also enabled me to execute the job with a professional touch. I have acquired the materials through the links you provided. I liked the video and subscribed to the channel.
Great stuff, thank you. New homeowner here and I didn't learn this stuff growing up, so I'm relying on TH-cam to learn. I appreciate you taking the time to film this!
Great lessons for painters. And as you get faster and more efficient, you can tap the brush quickly on both sides of the cut can to remove excess paint, and still have plenty of paint on the brush. I’ve been a Purdy guy for years but have recently used Corona brushes. They seem to keep form and hold paint well. Of course it’s all how you clean it. And for rollers, please use 1/4in or 3/8in naps, no half inch! Will insure a much smoother finish. Takes a bit of learning curve to work with but so much better. Wooster Pro Doo Z are great naps.
I've been a painter for almost 40 years now and I can say that we have the same process for painting. One thing different is that I wet my walls first by splashing a bucket of water and then pour paint over my body and roll over the walls meticulously.
perfect, pointer i like to use my pinky to keep my cut in steady. and i've never heard anyone agree with me or explain word for word as i do keep doing you
One of the 1st things I was taught by my mentor when I began my decorating career in the 50s was never to wipe a loaded brush on the rim of a paint can,I was taught to tap a loaded brush on either side of the paint kettle/container.The reason I was given was that if you wipe a loaded brush on the rim you are removing the paint you have just loaded whereas if you tap the side of the kettle the paint remains in the loaded brush
well done for mentioning laying off/feathering in the inner edge of cutting in. most other videos don't mention it. Decorating for 23 years and I see it often where a thick edge has been left. It gives a framing effect and the cutting in will show up on the finish.
I really appreciate your videos covering a variety of projects including tool usage, products, tips, procedures, do"s and don't's, and tricks of the trades. So very informative. As a do it yourselfer; they are immensely valuable to me. Also the links you provide are helpful. I already used them to research items and make purchases.Thanks so much.
A journeyman painter here. Thanks for the good video, I guarantee that beginners will not notice your hand position for holding a brush and just grab it with a fist, with the wood end downward by their little finger instead of upward through their index and thumb. I do a lot of different faux and scenic techniques and I always tell my apprentices to always look at how the instructor is holding the tool first! I use a "safety bucket" when up on ladders. That is, a 5 gallon empty bucket suspended by a hook from the holes in the top of the ladder. Then I put my paint can (even full) and tools in the bucket. Care is needed when moving the ladder but you can always nudge it along, if you need to move or flip the ladder, just unhook it. It is also important to always have a wet rag in one hand. And ALWAYS have your solvent (appropriate for your product) on hand. If you are using shellac based primer, then always have Denatured Alcohol, if using oil paints, then have mineral spirits, etc. KNOW your solvents. And never rinse paint of any kind, regardless of the small amount into a sink that leads to a septic system.
Oh my gosh......I learned so much in this short video then from any paint store! I literally had aha moments everytime you covered a tick! lol My sister and I are moving into a house built in 1925 so we have a lot of work to do, but you have helped with the painting! And p.s......you are pretty handsome too! 😉 Thank you!
I love your videos. I'm a DIYer--I've been painting for many years. I never knew you were supposed to wet the brush! How did I not know that? I just bought a new Purdy brush and am looking forward to see how it cuts when wetting it first. Keep the videos coming. Thanks.
My biggest take away: I need to feather my cutting strokes better. Thank you, I am about to paint a very well lit bathroom and this one tip is really going to make a difference. ✌😁
This is way more helpful as you actually showed different ways, the pros and cons of these ways, and how to get a good job done. Thanks for sharing these tips!
Hello! Thank you for all your instructional videos. After watching a few videos I realized I wasn’t using nearly enough mud to get the job done efficiently. You’ve saved me so much time thank you!
I loved this video. One thing to note is that if you want the painting done lightning fast, there's a technique called "throw" where you take a bucket, angle it 45 degrees, wrap the pail handle to a left handed barbell grip, tied snug, and loop around in several circles whilst spin wheeling the paint all over the place. Then you simply take your shoulder pads and nestle up against the surface and smear it in. It's important to make grunting sounds whilst you do this.
There's a much efficient way widely known as "Mr. Bean's method". Gently place the paint bucket in the centre of the room that needs paint. Open the lid. Place a firework inside. And light it up. Voila! Merry Christmas.
I had no idea there was so much to painting. I have a new respect for what you do. I can’t find anything that addresses mixing flat and gloss together. Maybe that’s a no no but I was going for something a little shinier than satin but not super shiny like gloss so I mixed ‘em together and painted my kitchen.🤷🏼♀️
@@zapyawhereithurts I've tried that before and what usually seems to happen is that a 50/50 mix looks about 95% as glossy as the glossier paint you put in.
I appreciate the tutorial and it was fun..I miss painting lately and going back to it so don't feel bad if we throw in some zingers ,not personal, just sharing with other painters..unless it at Dunn Edwards or Sherwin quickly, no one else understands. Hey, while I'm thinking of it. I'm in love with Rustoleum (hard to believe) APPLIANCE EPOXY. At my home, I've done cabinets -Home Depot, I order, comes in quarts for about $10-$15-sometimes a double pack for less,window hardware, even copper knobs (with the spray type at Walmart)...and... I actually did a shower wall for a friend..someone sprayed flat wall paint and peeling and I scraped it down, oil primed and let it cure a bit, then 2 top coats a week between coats and since it wasn't going to be used for shower spray, only bathtub-it looks great 3 years later. Don't know if it would split if direct spray. But I love that appliance epoxy. Used white gloss. Thanks for giving us a forum.
I always use old coffee containers for cutting, it’s very cheap because you’re throwing it away otherwise but it has a handle and a lid so you can store the paint when you’re done plus they for perfectly on a ladder
Personal preference: I usually carry 3 or 4 of the same brushes, and use each for about an hour before soaking them in an inch of water in a bucket. Rotate as needed. At the end of the day I rinse brushes with an outdoor garden hose, never in anyone’s sink.
I start my cleaning by wiping out most of the residual paint with old news papers or rags. Mine are also rinsed with a garden hose, but aren't you kind of screwed if working in an apartment like setting? Guess you could keep them wet til you get home, but what if you also live in an apartment like setting!😱 After the rinse, they get washed in the sink using a comb and shampoo and conditioner. Yup! Works great.
@@Sunstop oh wow, I didn’t think about shampoo and conditioner! I use S-W SuperPaint or Duration, both rinse easily. The only thing is, the ferrules rust & stain the Wooster brush handle, but that’s minor. I don’t know a solution if you’re in an apartment too. Main thing is to avoid being accused by anyone of clogging their pipe with paint residue. Extreme bond primer is so thick I can pick out clumps of the rinsed out residue in the grass!
I think this is the most relaxing video I've watched. I know. I weird. Good points. People that haven't painted think its easy, and it's not. At all. Yes, the paint in the sink, splatters on the floor, blinds, stove, countertops, here there everywhere. Love it. The guy did a beautiful job of painting my cupboads though.
Good point about mashing the electrical cord. Doing so softens the wires in the cord, reducing kinks and allowing the electrons to flow more easily. (If the stool or ladder has padded feet, use a hammer instead.) A welcome side effect is to minimize voltage drop, at least until the wires short out and start a fire. But try to avoid fires, as they tend to mar a well-painted wall and annoy picky customers.
Thanks for the video. I have learned a lot of painting by experience. I use only rollers big and small ones depending on size of the areas. For edges with different colors i use painter's tape and then use thick coats on small roller's edges, the texture is super smooth but that's just my preference. For areas i cannot get rollers in, i use brushes.
I see lots of people paint corners and frames first. You can probably be successful doing so with white paint. What I’ve learned is to always paint in wet paint. Point is that if you using water based paint that dry quickly and do corners first you’ll get different color on edges and different in the middle. Slightly but still. So I would recommend painting everything as you go.
Tip cut in 1 wall then roll it in straight away ,helps stop picture framing and picks up any thick edges from brush, or cut in and have second helper rolling behind you ,use roller pole put v shaped two roller wide stripe on wall to get paint mostly off roller ,then spread it out floor to ceiling evenly ,then tip it off in one direction bringing your wet edge with you , space your self away from wall so when you get to ceiling it's hard to reach last two inches , stop you from hitting ceiling , above all be systematic get into a Grove that works for you , muscle memory will kick in and job will begin to flow nicely ,,
Painter here. Good tips except for wetting the brush. I'd much rather have a little crust (thatll come off with a wire brush) than a watery, leaky brush. I wont even use a brush that's still wet from the last cleaning. That wet brush is gonna start dripping watery paint down the handle and make a mess every time.
I avoid a wet brush at all cost, not because of a mess but because I feel I don't have as good of control. The Bristles tend to clump together and it's just not what I'm use to... I know you said you'd dive into different brush stiffness. But I hope you give a Picasso brush a try, for cutting in walls I find it amazing!
Towel off brush to remove most, and use good quality paint and you shouldn’t have any problem with watery paint. Also tip on cleaning- I use “the Masters” brush cleaner (art supply type) this will remove even hardened paint from brushes.
Painter here aswell. It makes cleaning easier when you wet your brush. What he left out is you want to spin your brush so its not dripping wet but damp so paint isn't the first think to seep into the soul of the brush the water is.
Another great tip... Something I learned from shooting a gun! Exhale when cutting in or running a bead of paint down a straight line. When you exhale, it steadies your body.
The last step I use when i clean a brush is to use a dab of hair conditioner/cream rinse or whatever you prefer to call it, work it into a damp brush then rinse. Results are a flexible, smooth brush, just like the hair on your head, if you have hair up there. 😊
To keep my brushes from drying too fast I wet them first and add a couple of drops of Floetrol FLOOD to the wet bristles near the ferrule. It makes clean up so much easier especially in dry conditions when your brush starts to dry immediately.
I frequently have trouble finding somewhere at a clients house to wash out a brush or rollers, & definitely not in the kitchen sink. I keep a roll of glad wrap in the car to wrap up the brushes & rollers, keeping them airtight until I get home & wash them there. They will keep for many hours when wrapped up in film.
I don't understand why people even bother to wash out rollers. Simply add the cost of rollers in your estimate and throw them away after using them. The only rollers I wash out our my 1 inch nap rollers that I use on brick wall. I do so because they are not used all the time and tend to cost more. If you need to wash out rollers you can do one of two things. (1) Wash your roller and brushes in a bucket. That will water down the paint allowing for you to pour the water and then washing it out with the hose. (You should dig a hole or part rocks.) (2) buy a small bucket with lid and put water in it. That will keep them wet until you get home or even to the next day.
@@mcgraw8098 You're obviously a snob when it comes to them. A $20 roller does the same job a $10 roller does. I use all kinds of brands depending on the job. The reason I don't like reusing rollers is because paint does dry in them over time and it leaves a texture. When I roll flat walls and doors and trim I always use new rollers. The only time I wash out my rollers is if I am painting a large home with textured walls that will take me 2 or three days. I wash and reuse to bring down cost.
@@qzetu surely on a larger job you'd bag your wet rollers for the next day? ( no need to wash it out). Madness chucking rollers in the bin after every job, totally wasteful. Why not chuck all your brushes in the bin after every job?I
@@mcgraw8098 you don't know what you're talking about. You don't bag your rollers. After a fulls days work paint dries on the ends of rollers and by the next day the paint on them is thicker which causes inconsistencies. I always wash my brushes out and reuse them because (1) they are more expensive. (2) easy to clean. It is not a waste it is smart. I pay around $15 for three rollers. I pay $20 for my 20" rollers. I simply add that to my estimate. It makes the end if the day easier to clean up and go home.
This is why you should always hire the pros. It'll end up costing you way less in time saved. Pro painters can easily paint 5 times faster than the average person and the end result will be of much higher quality. Plus, most painters are only paid about $20/hr and can purchase your paints at a discount so it truthfully never makes sense to paint a space your self.
@@seroyhomeservices5212 people do whatever they want if you are lazy follow his advice you can easily paint your whole house in 1 month painting on the weekends all you need is paint and brushes and rollers why waste on paying someone to do something u can easily get done i of course a contractor would advise this 🤦♂️👌
Learning something new everyday 🤓 went to my room to check my wall that I painted and saw the hard edge. Next time I renovate my room I know what to do
I consider myself a decent painter and can cut pretty fast, but always hated the dried paint buildup on my brush, I'll have to try the wet brush start. One thing that I hate when I look at a wall are paint gaps at the top of the wall. Cutting is rarely ever going to be perfect so I tend to favor making an occasional overlap on the ceiling rather than having a gap on the top of the wall. The reason is, that gaps on the wall can be see from any place in the room whereas overlaps on the ceiling are only noticeable when you stand right next to the wall and look straight up.
This is great advice. I use the claim shell technique but I am a diyer. Now I I am going to try this. Keep up the great work and thanks for teaching us.
Angle the front of your brush down slightly when you cut in, the back end still keeps the line and you can see it easier, plus it widens your initial cut a bit before you feather it back out. I also like to wipe only one side of my brush, the side that is going against the surface not being painted, that way the side that is being painted has a little more paint to spread out in one run plus it coats it better thus increasing your chance of painting in one coat if you use good paint. ALSO most importantly, use GOOD paint and NOT the cheap stuff, you will always get better results
I work in construction and decorators always seem to be at the bottom of the pile, earning the least, and yet, it's these guys that actually makes any job look the way it does. No one, walks into a finished job and says, 'wow, the first fix electrics look's amazing'. A brilliant decorator i know can paint one wall in black, the other in white, and the join where they meet is bullet straight, and he does it in seconds. Absolute perfectly straight. You try it. These guys need way, way more credit.
Well said I'm a dec for 30 years a d we are the guys who.sort out the snags that other trades balls up
it's so hard to get a straight edge when it's two colours just done it today took me hours and it's still crap
I certainly can't do thaaaaat (straight lines).
I know, and it's crazy how it's one of the easiest mindless trades of work right?!?!
There’s nothing super hard in the trade for sure, but come do some high pressure sand blasting on a pipeline or a big plant in an industrial setting. Or have to spray finicky coats in super cramped odd angles etc.
There’s a fair bit of skill to it too. Commercial painting is fairly straightforward though
Dang it. I've been holding the bristled end and painting with the wooden end. Thanks so much!
Lol, that cracked me up.
😂✌
"I see that all the time."
LMAO
classic Australian mistake.
I’ve done all my own painting for years and had picked up on most of what you said through trial and error and experience. One thing I never knew though, was to wet your brush first. I always thought a brush had to be completely dry. And now that I know that it’s ok to wash your brush mid- job, my cleanups will be MUCH easier. Thanks.
Me too. I think it'll make things way easier lol
@Clay Fox Nope. Dip it and shake it out by hitting ferrule on the edge of a bucket. Excess water will be gone, paint will come off brush better and the brush will be far easier to clean.
I never knew to wet the brush either
@@barbaraedmondson1524 you want to wet the foam brush rollers also, sometimes can have loose fibers and when you paint can get caught and stick.
I am with you. Never realized that you can wet brush before starting. Nor did I realize that you can wash the brush mid job. Did you know that you can urethane the handle of your new brushes to keep paint removal easy?
I'm not a beginning painter, but I still learned a few things from this video. He's a good teacher, not repetitive like some.
Great teacher.... love the video.... the kid is sharp and motivating.. As a long time painting contractor i was taught many years ago not to use a paint can to paint out of, instead use a paint pot.... also never wipe the brush but instead load it and tap it on the side of the pot to maximize the load...
Lastly on the ceiling cut sometimes its good to lay on an underline of paint about an inch below where you cut then cut. As the brush travels it picks up the underline and distributes more evenly.
My father, who was a professional painter, taught me your cutting methods. I had to watch to see if you were doing it to the quality expectations he had for me. You were. He taught me in the 1950's and watched over to ensure I was doing it correctly. Same thing with rolling the wall. There was the wrong way to roll and the way he learned in his trade school after he returned after WWII. Thanks for continuing the fine tradition. He would have approved. He also taught me the correct way to wallpaper a room. He was a master and did papering and murals in numerous lovely homes in our hometown.
I have been painting for almost 30 years and for the first time watched someone on TH-cam paint the same way I do. Great instruction!
How is the cost of painting a room , house, or wall figured out?
Does it go by square foot?
@@luistobar7 well they wanted to charge me $400 for the kitchen. lol figure I do myself.
How do you roll a flat untextured wall?
@@chakra_chaser in oz it's $200+ 10 ltrs 1 tin,just over 2.5 gallons
@@paulstevens2671 i wouldnt get out of bed for $200
You make me so happy, because I am self taught and I do exactly what you do...my husband yells at me all the time for not taping, even tho I tested him to see if he could tell which wall was taped and he failed. I am making him watch this video. 👍
I stopped taping because taping was making it worse.
Taping sucks and is completely pointless if you're good at cutting in.
Agreed, I find I get better results from cutting in without tape!
During the learning curve I was carrying a metal scraper and a wet cloth to tidy up as I went where I messed up cutting in but doesn’t take long to get the hang of it!
Professional brush and roll teams do not use tape. Tape is generally used for Faux finishes that have a lot of layers of plaster and other materials. I would not do Faux without it!
Thank you for those excellent tips. Appreciate the water on the new brush for water based paint 🎉
I just have to say, your sarcasm is exactly on my level and it makes your videos so much more amazing
Mike's Painting Service - A good general video for beginners. Respectful tips: Don't scrape the brush on the side's of the can. Dip the brush about 3/8" inch, then tap it on the inside to load the brush with paint. Scraping will eventually start curling the brush hairs also. When applying, instead of painting completely straight with your line, try about a 30 degree angle, and get your brush hairs cutting a perfect line. Righty's usually go from left to right, and lefties the opposite. I use those hand held paint pots with liner's....the best. The term is, "Picture Framing." Don't make your paint line too wide, or you will see it when you roll the rest out. In a bathroom, you should prime it first, because of the high moisture. I use "Gripper." There are also oil base sealers, but they take longer, but work excellent. But over-all Ben, as usual...good job. I watch your video's every day, and learn.
This comment made me smile in agreement. I was crawling watching him cut in left to right. I'm mainly right handed but cut in right to left. I can't see that changing as it works for me. But most decorators are good with either hand and flip the brush either way depending on what's needed. While I'm still crawling at cutting in left to right, irony is I paint woodwork left to right. Love that after many years decorating, you still keep learning.
Last comment was I didn't feel he feathered enough. The hard line was only kind of broken,
Dumb question: When you are tapping the brush on the inside, what are you tapping? The tips of the bristles? The ferrule? The handle?
@@NormanRamsey Don't tap anything. Dip the end of the bristles in the paint about a 1/2 to 1 inch, then shake off back into the can by kind of slinging it down off the brush. This loads up the brush. Don't touch the sides or the rim. That's how I was taught to do it when I worked on a paint crew during the summers while in college.
How wide should your paint line be?
A couple of inches is fine. Just so you can cut it in with a roller.@@cpoul
I love this guy. He is so smart. So genuine and so charming. This is the reason why youtube exists. No other reason. Keep making videos and keep those trolls away my good mate. Cheers.
Hey Ben, As someone who doesn't do this for a living but does do a lot of this in my homes. We just bought a house that needs a lot of painting. Your tips and tricks have definitely helped working with patching and working with mud. Thank you!
At 79 years old, I actually believe I can follow your instructions and paint my little guestroom before my guest arrives in a few weeks! I really like the little painters stool you use. I will get one of those those. Thanks!
Have you made a start? You can do this! 🙂
My daddy ran his own painting company ,following in his daddy's footsteps as did his brothers . I can hear my daddy's voice watching this video giving his directions and his corrections . He painted indoor ,outdoor ,barns ,fence ,roofs ,heavy equipment,and mining equipment. You name it ,he and his crew would paint it . When painting with brush or roller ,he would say "Put you some paint in the roller I can hear from over here ." "Dip that brush ,little further than that now you got it ". Anywhere we went ,he would point at something and say Me and your uncle Randy painted that or I painted that with my daddy when I was about 13. Miss him ,his stories and advice .
You're a fantastic teacher! I'll be using many of your tips in my upcoming renos. Thanks a bunch!
Veteran painter here. Good tips especially the wetting of the brush. However after wetting you need to spin out the water by hand or by knocking against your shoe for instance. Also, the cut-in bucket grip is essential, you just cannot drop a bucket with the pro-grip. Here's a tip; instead of swiping the brush against the rim of the cut-in bucket, press it against the inner wall of the bucket, then swipe just one side of the brush. The swipe is used mostly to straighten the bristles. Here's another tip: about 20 years ago I discovered that a Folgers plastic coffee container grips a 2 1/2" brush just like the magnet in your commercial bucket. Snap it into the grip area of the Folgers container, it's pretty good in a pinch. Usually I lay the paint on 1/2" from my target, then move that paint 1/4" closer, then into the edge with a tilted backwards swipe and finish with a light forward swipe. Cleaning up in the customer's sink and leaving a mess is always a good move.
Oh no, I hate coffee. I'd have to find someone to buy Folgers and drink it first. And unlucky me, most coffee drinkers I know are coffee snobs and wouldn't drink Folgers. Maybe I'll just buy some and pour it out in my garden so I can have the container 😉
@Roger Hammer: You might be a veteran painter but you are definitely not a professional painter.
@@rayray8687 Well, they paid me for 25 years, but I guess you know best.
@@Rajiihammr: I hope they didn’t pay you by the hour, lol. 1/2”, 1/4”, target - 3 times the work for 1 result. But I was actually referring to your suggestion that it’s ok to leave a mess in the customer’s sink and I can assure you it is NOT ok and will get you thrown off most job sites. The customer should be able to tell you’ve been there by the work done, not the mess left behind, plus it’s a simple and professional matter to store your brushes and rollers in airtight bags for reuse the next day or to take home for cleaning or disposal. Happy painting!
@@rayray8687 Apparently you didn't catch the VC's sarcasm about cleaning up in the customers sink at the 9:00 min. mark. There is no such thing as cutting in with one swipe. A pro does not apply directly on the ceiling line. The 1/2" swipe takes 3sec. in a 2foot swipe, return with brush held backwards with 1/4" swipe and finish with the ceiling swipe. All done in seconds. If you discount the technique, then you haven't tried it. I know what I'm talking about. And pay closer attention to the video watch out for sarcasm.
Thanks for making the video, I enjoyed it! A HUGE yes to buying quality brushes. I used mainly Sherwin Williams brushes for most of my pro career, but have since also used the better Purdy and Wooster brushes, and most recently Corona brushes (I cut in with either a 2.5 or 3.5 angled sash). Good quality brushes perform better, and if you take care of them last almost forever (I have several Sher Will brushes that are over 30 years old and still work great). YES to cleaning your brushes throughout the day. I use a small length of 2"X10", a wire brush, dish detergent (Palmolive, Dawn, whatever), warm water and a brush comb. If I'm storing the paintbrushes long-term, I spray the bristles with WD-40, comb it in with the brush comb, and put it in the shaper. The WD-40 carrier evaporates, leaving a light film on the bristles that helps keep them soft. YES, to tapping the brush on the inside of your cutting can rather than scraping the sides on the top edges. Tapping the brush gets rid of the excess paint but keeps the brush fully loaded for maximum efficiency. YES to coating wooden brush handles with urethane so they're easier to clean. YES to dampening your brushes before using them (although I don't always do that). However, if I pre-wet them, I get almost ALL the water out by spinning them between my hands before I use them (otherwise the water will run down off the brush onto your hand, arm etc). I always spin my brushes rather than tap them, on the brushes edge, on a bucket. Tapping them tends to loosen the ferrule over time whereas spinning them does not. YES to almost always thinning your paint or using Floetrol (latex paint - the paint spreads better and you get better coverage). YES to rubbing baby oil into any exposed skin that might get paint on it. Any dried paint basically just wipes off when you're cleaning up. YES to always using a good quality paint. And finally when it comes to stain blocking primers nothing can beat BIN Shellac based primer from Zinsser. It's expensive, but because it's alcohol-based the smell is tolerable, and it literally dries in like 15 minutes. Good luck y'all, have fun!
I'm about to paint a few rooms in my tenants' apartment and your tips have come as a God-send. Thanks! 👍🙂
I’m 40 years old re-learning slappies and paint tricks from the same dude. Btw: my kid and I love watching you and @giftedhater keep doing those collabs!!!!!
Pro Tips: I was a painter for awhile and have done a lot of my own home reno painting. I was taught to never wipe the brush on the paint can lip. You're scraping all the paint off that you want to deliver to the wall, and I was told it causes the brush to lose it's shape and get fuzzy. As shown, use a can with only an inch or two of paint. Dip the brush and quickly slap it back and forth a couple of times on the sides of the can (inside the can). This fluffs up the brush, charging the INSIDE of the brush with paint and leaves less paint on the outside of the brush to drip. The paint inside the brush is much less likely to drip off than paint hanging on the outside. You can heavily charge the brush and it won't drip, at least for a few seconds while you're moving the brush to the wall.
Then if you're doing detailed work like cutting, and your newly charged brush looks like it might drip, "dump" part of the load of paint along the the line you are about to paint, i.e. just quickly dab it or brush it to put the excess paint aside for a moment while you start the cut. Then you can pick up that extra paint while moving along the cut line without going back to the can.
If you're using latex/acrylic paint (which is pretty much all that is used now), don't try to do all the cutting in a room first, and then do the rolling. The cutting paint will start to dry after a few minutes and will skin over or dry enough to leave edge lines, brush marks, as VC showed in the video. I cut as much as I can reach from my stool, and then roll that area, then cut the next area, and roll that area.
Another important thing when painting is to learn do the 'painter's shuffle'. When moving around the room that has open paint cans, open paint trays etc on the floor, if you need to move your feet and when you're looking up and can't watch where you are stepping, you gingerly SLIDE your feet like a ballerina, so you don't step into or kick over a paint tray or bucket.
I didn't read all of your comment but I can tell you that you suck at painting. Call a professional painter you tasteless hack. Your poor tenants shouldn't have to live in what looks like a third-world country. Keep in mind it's just my opinion but I'm usually always right
You're right about this guy being a shity painter though
@@elmerdane I'm a general contractor and been around pro painters all my life and YOU ARE RIGHT.! Never wipe the brush.. Taking all the paint out and it will drip... Tapping on each side of can will keep the brush full and will never drip....
What a shitty comment/post.
@@bobbyc9960 Oh wow.... wow.... wow
That last tip is actually the tip I was hoping for. Washing your brush about every hour. I have found my brush getting so saturated if painting for long time. Thank you. That is when a brush 'spinner/dryer' would really be helpful.
I use hair conditioner on my brushes every few uses. It helps restore the bristles to like new. It also helps release the paint when cleaning them out.
Best videos for homeowners on TH-cam. You do a great job.
Thank you so much for doing this video. I've watched a bunch by other painters and you're the only one who explains what's he's doing and why and shows us. So helpful.
I am thanking you BIG TIME for your videos which have educated me immensely. You present techniques and tips simply and coherently. I was updating 2 rooms in a 100 year old section of our house, which included weeks of paint stripping and staining some key wood elements in our Kraftsman house and painting walls and the MANY window and door frames in these rooms. It is almost finished (awaiting insulation installation this week), but I watched so many of your videos for this major project that my husband got tired of hearing my lauds about you and your channel. Big gratitude to you! Keep on doing these videos for us DIYers with frugal husbands who are unwilling to hire for jobs their wife learned how to do from you!!!
"You gotta feather that edge." Insert heart-eyed smiley face here.
When we moved into our house 6 years ago, i painted my entire house basement to 2nd floor myself, it took 3 full days. Because i knew how to use the heel of the brush i was able to skip the taping part and get perfectly straight lines. Cutting is the most crucial part of any.paint project
Nahhh wrong. Nice opinion but it’s preparation...
@@zeamikaele8623 he can’t have done any prep work or a nice job to paint a whole house in three days. I’m a professional painter btw
Unless you have a tiny house, there is no way you can accomplish that. Prep time, ceilings, trim, doors and walls.. no.
This video has been tremendously helpful to me while painting the exterior of my house. Your suggestions have not only saved me money but also enabled me to execute the job with a professional touch. I have acquired the materials through the links you provided. I liked the video and subscribed to the channel.
Great stuff, thank you. New homeowner here and I didn't learn this stuff growing up, so I'm relying on TH-cam to learn. I appreciate you taking the time to film this!
This is painting science, and this is a graduate-level class! Really good how-to stuff!
Thanks for these useful tips. While painting my annex I found myself saying 'feather my edge' over and over!
Great lessons for painters. And as you get faster and more efficient, you can tap the brush quickly on both sides of the cut can to remove excess paint, and still have plenty of paint on the brush. I’ve been a Purdy guy for years but have recently used Corona brushes. They seem to keep form and hold paint well. Of course it’s all how you clean it. And for rollers, please use 1/4in or 3/8in naps, no half inch! Will insure a much smoother finish. Takes a bit of learning curve to work with but so much better. Wooster Pro Doo Z are great naps.
Coronavirus
Fast makes smooth. Thanks for posting this, you're a good teacher.
I know you mainly for skate tutorials and got quality information for working with things around the house.
Dude you’re amazing.
Happy to help!
I've been a painter for almost 40 years now and I can say that we have the same process for painting. One thing different is that I wet my walls first by splashing a bucket of water and then pour paint over my body and roll over the walls meticulously.
LMAO. Have you seen "Red Green" video where he uses a hog trough, a fork lift, and a rolled carpet to paint his barn?
Hahahaha
Thank you for this. Really helpful for us beginners. Don't know why the unnecessary remarks.
perfect, pointer i like to use my pinky to keep my cut in steady. and i've never heard anyone agree with me or explain word for word as i do keep doing you
My boss says to use my pinky
Agreed
One of the 1st things I was taught by my mentor when I began my decorating career in the 50s was never to wipe a loaded brush on the rim of a paint can,I was taught to tap a loaded brush on either side of the paint kettle/container.The reason I was given was that if you wipe a loaded brush on the rim you are removing the paint you have just loaded whereas if you tap the side of the kettle the paint remains in the loaded brush
Cute. Thanks for a great video and for leaving that paint in my sink
well done for mentioning laying off/feathering in the inner edge of cutting in. most other videos don't mention it. Decorating for 23 years and I see it often where a thick edge has been left. It gives a framing effect and the cutting in will show up on the finish.
I really appreciate your videos covering a variety of projects including tool usage, products, tips, procedures, do"s and don't's, and tricks of the trades. So very informative. As a do it yourselfer; they are immensely valuable to me. Also the links you provide are helpful. I already used them to research items and make purchases.Thanks so much.
Very well stated!
All he is doing teaching you the wrong way to paint. Trust me he's an idiot.
A journeyman painter here. Thanks for the good video, I guarantee that beginners will not notice your hand position for holding a brush and just grab it with a fist, with the wood end downward by their little finger instead of upward through their index and thumb. I do a lot of different faux and scenic techniques and I always tell my apprentices to always look at how the instructor is holding the tool first! I use a "safety bucket" when up on ladders. That is, a 5 gallon empty bucket suspended by a hook from the holes in the top of the ladder. Then I put my paint can (even full) and tools in the bucket. Care is needed when moving the ladder but you can always nudge it along, if you need to move or flip the ladder, just unhook it. It is also important to always have a wet rag in one hand. And ALWAYS have your solvent (appropriate for your product) on hand. If you are using shellac based primer, then always have Denatured Alcohol, if using oil paints, then have mineral spirits, etc. KNOW your solvents. And never rinse paint of any kind, regardless of the small amount into a sink that leads to a septic system.
Tom and Christina would love this "feathering" video.
I literally came back to the comments to see if i read that right
I literally came back here to see if i read that right
Truly a beginner trying not to have to sit through some other video on how to fix paint mistakes. This really helped 😄
Oh my gosh......I learned so much in this short video then from any paint store! I literally had aha moments everytime you covered a tick! lol My sister and I are moving into a house built in 1925 so we have a lot of work to do, but you have helped with the painting! And p.s......you are pretty handsome too! 😉 Thank you!
I love your videos. I'm a DIYer--I've been painting for many years. I never knew you were supposed to wet the brush! How did I not know that? I just bought a new Purdy brush and am looking forward to see how it cuts when wetting it first. Keep the videos coming. Thanks.
My biggest take away: I need to feather my cutting strokes better. Thank you, I am about to paint a very well lit bathroom and this one tip is really going to make a difference. ✌😁
I like the disclaimer you make about commission in description. Very honest
I've been washing out in kitchen sinks for yrs, customers love it. Glad I'm not the only one
I learned something new today! Never knew about wetting the brush prior the job. Thanks so much!!🌸
This is way more helpful as you actually showed different ways, the pros and cons of these ways, and how to get a good job done.
Thanks for sharing these tips!
This tips are a life saver. My business can’t open because the painters and carpenters can’t paint these custom cubbies. Tonight I do it myself 👍
I can't believe how fast you did that. I should of watched this video before I painted two rooms. Thanks for the tip.
Hello! Thank you for all your instructional videos. After watching a few videos I realized I wasn’t using nearly enough mud to get the job done efficiently. You’ve saved me so much time thank you!
I loved this video. One thing to note is that if you want the painting done lightning fast, there's a technique called "throw" where you take a bucket, angle it 45 degrees, wrap the pail handle to a left handed barbell grip, tied snug, and loop around in several circles whilst spin wheeling the paint all over the place. Then you simply take your shoulder pads and nestle up against the surface and smear it in. It's important to make grunting sounds whilst you do this.
😂😂😂😂
There's a much efficient way widely known as "Mr. Bean's method".
Gently place the paint bucket in the centre of the room that needs paint.
Open the lid.
Place a firework inside.
And light it up.
Voila! Merry Christmas.
I had no idea there was so much to painting. I have a new respect for what you do. I can’t find anything that addresses mixing flat and gloss together. Maybe that’s a no no but I was going for something a little shinier than satin but not super shiny like gloss so I mixed ‘em together and painted my kitchen.🤷🏼♀️
@@zapyawhereithurts I've tried that before and what usually seems to happen is that a 50/50 mix looks about 95% as glossy as the glossier paint you put in.
"Hey guys it's the Vancouver carpenter"
"so carpenters are pretty dumb when it comes to painting"
Lol love the honesty. Great videos keep them coming
I appreciate the tutorial and it was fun..I miss painting lately and going back to it so don't feel bad if we throw in some zingers ,not personal, just sharing with other painters..unless it at Dunn Edwards or Sherwin quickly, no one else understands. Hey, while I'm thinking of it. I'm in love with Rustoleum (hard to believe) APPLIANCE EPOXY. At my home, I've done cabinets -Home Depot, I order, comes in quarts for about $10-$15-sometimes a double pack for less,window hardware, even copper knobs (with the spray type at Walmart)...and... I actually did a shower wall for a friend..someone sprayed flat wall paint and peeling and I scraped it down, oil primed and let it cure a bit, then 2 top coats a week between coats and since it wasn't going to be used for shower spray, only bathtub-it looks great 3 years later. Don't know if it would split if direct spray. But I love that appliance epoxy. Used white gloss. Thanks for giving us a forum.
I always use old coffee containers for cutting, it’s very cheap because you’re throwing it away otherwise but it has a handle and a lid so you can store the paint when you’re done plus they for perfectly on a ladder
Great tips. Especially about cleaning your brush out every hour or so. New idea to me I am definitely going to do.
"Be sure to do this in the homeowner's kitchen sink" Wait! What?! LOL that was so funny!
He's joking
Oh thanks we couldn’t tell...
@@Chopp333r 😬
Personal preference: I usually carry 3 or 4 of the same brushes, and use each for about an hour before soaking them in an inch of water in a bucket. Rotate as needed. At the end of the day I rinse brushes with an outdoor garden hose, never in anyone’s sink.
I start my cleaning by wiping out most of the residual paint with old news papers or rags. Mine are also rinsed with a garden hose, but aren't you kind of screwed if working in an apartment like setting? Guess you could keep them wet til you get home, but what if you also live in an apartment like setting!😱 After the rinse, they get washed in the sink using a comb and shampoo and conditioner. Yup! Works great.
@@Sunstop oh wow, I didn’t think about shampoo and conditioner! I use S-W SuperPaint or Duration, both rinse easily. The only thing is, the ferrules rust & stain the Wooster brush handle, but that’s minor. I don’t know a solution if you’re in an apartment too. Main thing is to avoid being accused by anyone of clogging their pipe with paint residue. Extreme bond primer is so thick I can pick out clumps of the rinsed out residue in the grass!
Lol the ending cracked me up, having construction exp thats funny the whole leaving paint in the customers sink 🤣🤣 sarcasm at its finest
)
I think this is the most relaxing video I've watched. I know. I weird. Good points. People that haven't painted think its easy, and it's not. At all. Yes, the paint in the sink, splatters on the floor, blinds, stove, countertops, here there everywhere. Love it. The guy did a beautiful job of painting my cupboads though.
@@charlotteruse158 you're right, its not easy
I love you Canadian home improvement guys!
In fact, I think you’re my favorite channel! I learn and laugh! 🤣
Your drywall video's really helped me. Now I'm onto your painting.. you are a champion.. regards from Bendigo Australia
Calmly explained and plus that you’re handsome. Appreciate the great tips!
Ahhh, the sarcasm! I love it!
Good point about mashing the electrical cord. Doing so softens the wires in the cord, reducing kinks and allowing the electrons to flow more easily. (If the stool or ladder has padded feet, use a hammer instead.) A welcome side effect is to minimize voltage drop, at least until the wires short out and start a fire. But try to avoid fires, as they tend to mar a well-painted wall and annoy picky customers.
Thanks!
My pleasure! and thank you!!!
I think this is the best TH-cam video I've ever seen. Not kidding!
Thanks for the video. I have learned a lot of painting by experience. I use only rollers big and small ones depending on size of the areas. For edges with different colors i use painter's tape and then use thick coats on small roller's edges, the texture is super smooth but that's just my preference. For areas i cannot get rollers in, i use brushes.
I see lots of people paint corners and frames first. You can probably be successful doing so with white paint. What I’ve learned is to always paint in wet paint. Point is that if you using water based paint that dry quickly and do corners first you’ll get different color on edges and different in the middle. Slightly but still. So I would recommend painting everything as you go.
Tip cut in 1 wall then roll it in straight away ,helps stop picture framing and picks up any thick edges from brush, or cut in and have second helper rolling behind you ,use roller pole put v shaped two roller wide stripe on wall to get paint mostly off roller ,then spread it out floor to ceiling evenly ,then tip it off in one direction bringing your wet edge with you , space your self away from wall so when you get to ceiling it's hard to reach last two inches , stop you from hitting ceiling , above all be systematic get into a Grove that works for you , muscle memory will kick in and job will begin to flow nicely ,,
Thank you! I've never wet my brush first but will from now on! Great tip.
That was well worth watching ALL the way through. All very handy bits of info.
Wow! Carpenter, Drywaller, Painter, Skateboarder... Where do your talents end Ben???😇
Thanks Paul. It comes from not liking hiring out for jobs. I know you paint too!
Drywallers are in Carpentry family.
@@buk6708 yup, measure once cut twice
Very nice
😂🤣😂🤣
I always got a brilliant professional. My dad. Missing him. But great video.
CEO of feathering his edge
The best video about painting for beginers.
I literally LOL’d when you showed how not to cut a ceiling. I work with a guy who cuts like that and it hurts me. The calling card got me too 😂
Painter here. Good tips except for wetting the brush. I'd much rather have a little crust (thatll come off with a wire brush) than a watery, leaky brush. I wont even use a brush that's still wet from the last cleaning. That wet brush is gonna start dripping watery paint down the handle and make a mess every time.
Good point! I forget about that sometimes.
I avoid a wet brush at all cost, not because of a mess but because I feel I don't have as good of control. The Bristles tend to clump together and it's just not what I'm use to... I know you said you'd dive into different brush stiffness. But I hope you give a Picasso brush a try, for cutting in walls I find it amazing!
Dan H . Me too. I don’t like having a brush that is holding retained water and drip everywhere when you turn it upside down.
Towel off brush to remove most, and use good quality paint and you shouldn’t have any problem with watery paint. Also tip on cleaning- I use “the Masters” brush cleaner (art supply type) this will remove even hardened paint from brushes.
Painter here aswell. It makes cleaning easier when you wet your brush. What he left out is you want to spin your brush so its not dripping wet but damp so paint isn't the first think to seep into the soul of the brush the water is.
Another great tip... Something I learned from shooting a gun! Exhale when cutting in or running a bead of paint down a straight line. When you exhale, it steadies your body.
The last step I use when i clean a brush is to use a dab of hair conditioner/cream rinse or whatever you prefer to call it, work it into a damp brush then rinse. Results are a flexible, smooth brush, just like the hair on your head, if you have hair up there. 😊
What a funny and informative video. I’ve learned a lot especially “ feathering”. Thank you x
Ben knows how and explains so well!
I learned a new word, “slarpy”. Will now be adding it to my vocabulary.
To keep my brushes from drying too fast I wet them first and add a couple of drops of Floetrol FLOOD to the wet bristles near the ferrule. It makes clean up so much easier especially in dry conditions when your brush starts to dry immediately.
I frequently have trouble finding somewhere at a clients house to wash out a brush or rollers, & definitely not in the kitchen sink. I keep a roll of glad wrap in the car to wrap up the brushes & rollers, keeping them airtight until I get home & wash them there. They will keep for many hours when wrapped up in film.
I don't understand why people even bother to wash out rollers. Simply add the cost of rollers in your estimate and throw them away after using them. The only rollers I wash out our my 1 inch nap rollers that I use on brick wall. I do so because they are not used all the time and tend to cost more. If you need to wash out rollers you can do one of two things. (1) Wash your roller and brushes in a bucket. That will water down the paint allowing for you to pour the water and then washing it out with the hose. (You should dig a hole or part rocks.) (2) buy a small bucket with lid and put water in it. That will keep them wet until you get home or even to the next day.
@@qzetu you're obviously buying rubbish sleeves.
@@mcgraw8098 You're obviously a snob when it comes to them. A $20 roller does the same job a $10 roller does. I use all kinds of brands depending on the job. The reason I don't like reusing rollers is because paint does dry in them over time and it leaves a texture. When I roll flat walls and doors and trim I always use new rollers. The only time I wash out my rollers is if I am painting a large home with textured walls that will take me 2 or three days. I wash and reuse to bring down cost.
@@qzetu surely on a larger job you'd bag your wet rollers for the next day? ( no need to wash it out).
Madness chucking rollers in the bin after every job, totally wasteful. Why not chuck all your brushes in the bin after every job?I
@@mcgraw8098 you don't know what you're talking about. You don't bag your rollers. After a fulls days work paint dries on the ends of rollers and by the next day the paint on them is thicker which causes inconsistencies. I always wash my brushes out and reuse them because (1) they are more expensive. (2) easy to clean.
It is not a waste it is smart. I pay around $15 for three rollers. I pay $20 for my 20" rollers.
I simply add that to my estimate. It makes the end if the day easier to clean up and go home.
thank u so much. never knew that Hak about watering your brush to prolong your paint brush. will save me so much now.
This is useful tips for us beginers who want to work in seafaring industry as a seaman
Man you are hilarious! Love the brush washing part.
It takes me a whole day to cut a room, seeing a pro do it in minutes hurts badly.
Me too!!!
This is why you should always hire the pros. It'll end up costing you way less in time saved.
Pro painters can easily paint 5 times faster than the average person and the end result will be of much higher quality. Plus, most painters are only paid about $20/hr and can purchase your paints at a discount so it truthfully never makes sense to paint a space your self.
@@seroyhomeservices5212 people do whatever they want if you are lazy follow his advice you can easily paint your whole house in 1 month painting on the weekends all you need is paint and brushes and rollers why waste on paying someone to do something u can easily get done i of course a contractor would advise this 🤦♂️👌
Just frame it all with masing tape
long arms help, I’m up and down a ladder all day moving it along the wall
another thing I do sometimes is load the brush and pool it on the wall and draw from it, if you are painting fast, you can do it.
That a good tecneic for lager room walls.
Learning something new everyday 🤓 went to my room to check my wall that I painted and saw the hard edge. Next time I renovate my room I know what to do
Cleaning your brush every hour or so is great advice.
That magnet was hella cool.
Love all the tips.
I consider myself a decent painter and can cut pretty fast, but always hated the dried paint buildup on my brush, I'll have to try the wet brush start. One thing that I hate when I look at a wall are paint gaps at the top of the wall. Cutting is rarely ever going to be perfect so I tend to favor making an occasional overlap on the ceiling rather than having a gap on the top of the wall. The reason is, that gaps on the wall can be see from any place in the room whereas overlaps on the ceiling are only noticeable when you stand right next to the wall and look straight up.
that's a pretty great tip! thanks for sharing Mike
First off, yeay for this "too obvious to think to ask" video, and second, I could listen to this dude talk all day.
You make it look so easy.. I always have high hopes BUT 10 minutes after I start painting a project I'm like Why did I do this.. haha.
They key is dont get discouraged and take your time
I sympathize with your projects....😂😂
This is great advice. I use the claim shell technique but I am a diyer. Now I I am going to try this. Keep up the great work and thanks for teaching us.
Homeboy shreds the skateparks too, so funny cause I come across your vids when I'm looking for work tips and skate tips as well
Angle the front of your brush down slightly when you cut in, the back end still keeps the line and you can see it easier, plus it widens your initial cut a bit before you feather it back out. I also like to wipe only one side of my brush, the side that is going against the surface not being painted, that way the side that is being painted has a little more paint to spread out in one run plus it coats it better thus increasing your chance of painting in one coat if you use good paint. ALSO most importantly, use GOOD paint and NOT the cheap stuff, you will always get better results