No good deed goes unpunished Mr. Craftsman. No need for the yippy yappy putty snob critics to attack you like that. (As a complete beginner I take to heart their point about the points but the way some went about it with their noses out of joint and sticking straight up in the air just ticks me good.) I for one have your vid stashed. Best one on the net for the tube putty, hands down. Dap ought to reward you. Great job and a huge help and thanks! And PS for Putty snobs. Those that can't...criticize. Where are YOUR vids demonstrating your excellent self-professed talent? Hmm?
Thanks for putting out the video, nice techniques, especially tooling off the compound. I'd add a couple things: prime the rabbets and let dry. DAP calls for a thin back bead and glazing points. If your interiors are stained use clear silicon. The pro-tips of having a little container of water and two rags are key. Well done
For novices: If you haven't used a caulking gun before, you'll notice that usually there is a small wire "rod" on the bottom side of the gun that is held in place by a screw that allows it to be folded back out of the way, or swung to the front where it sticks out like a bayonet. That little rod is used to slip down the opening of your caulking tube nozzle to break the aluminum seal.
First you should put a thin layer of compound on the wood to embed the glass into for a better seal. Next 'prime' the wood with linseed oil, penetrol, floetrol, even paint primer so that the dried wood doesn't suck the moisture out of the glazing compound too quickly. This makes for a slower cure time and better adhesion.
That's true with putty. The product he's using is laytex. Wood doesn't suck stuff out of it. No oil needed. He tells you all of this in the video. If you check on the sides of your head you'll find these things called ears. They allow you to hear sounds other people are making. These sounds are called "words" and allow them to communicate information to you.
@@MeepChangelingactually your incorrect you do need to use a oil based primer first It says so both on the dap website and if you call there 800 number Now all that crap you wrote about using your ears has made you look …. Well maybe think about ridiculing someone for no reason next time and you won’t look so bad ?
I almost didn't watch this because I could tell it was a young guy and there was another video with an older guy, who I assumed would probably know more than some whipper snapper. Then I realized it was the Homestead Craftsman! Thanks so much for the helpful video!
Thank you! I had to replace the window in an old barn that blew out in a storm. It might have been oil based, but it was so old that most of the paint was pealing off. So I sanded it down really well (yes, I used a mask, and maybe it was even lead based paint from 100 years ago, so I probably should have used an N95), then I used water based primer (2 coats) then latex outdoor paint (2 coats). Bought the DAP 33 for the glazing, and after reading the instructions realized I couldn't use it because it was for oil based paint. So after several other searches on what to use, I found your video and will do the DAP latex glazing and give it a try. I appreciate the video, it gives me more confidence, since I've never done this before. I already had my points in before watching this video. I had purchased points at the hardware store, but found my Dad's old points from years ago. I guess he did this himself too, but he's not around so I can't for his advice. Another video suggested I place a small bead behind the glass to seat it, so I'll do this too. Keep up the good work, I'm going to use your technique!
One of the very best "how to" videos I have ever come across. Nicely detailed and orderly presentation with an excellent review at the end with handy reminders.
Thanks for the video. You saved me a lot of time because I started using the oil based one and I haven't cleaned the windows good enough. And I was using my finger with nitrile gloves on and the gloves would get too tacky after a couple of minutes. Then I realized I must be doing something wrong here. Thanks , sometimes simple things go along way in making life easier.
After reading the comments on this video, while it may not be the perfect method, at least he might inspire people to save their old windows, instead of horrible vinyl replacements. When I started to get into old windows a few years ago, I re-glazed the old windows in my bedroom with the same method he's using. Now, I am starting a side job on a large, historcal commercial building downtown (20-some plus huge windows). Strip the paint, oil-based primer, back-bed with Dap 33, set the glass, face-glaze, prime glazing, then 2 coats of finish paint. My point is, everyone has to start somewhere, and learn from their mistakes. So don't hammer the guy!
If your just doing windows I would agree but as a professional painter who has to get a 3200 sq ft exterior painted in a week with 20 plus windows that need glazing knowing 33 glazing does not properly set to paint within a week tube glazing has been a life safer.We bed it, Use our points and once we run the glaze out the tubes we gently run our fingers come back the next day it's ready for prime...Will agree if you have the time and are looking for a more professional look your way is the way to go..In business you have to know what makes since & what doesn't.
No it isn't. 1. This is laytex, not old fashioned plaster of pairs crap. It gets squished in there by the tube action real good. Better than you can jam mud into the crack with a fingie. 2. You're far better off just putting a silicone sealent on the other side of the window once it's dry to 100% airproof and water proof the panes. 3. Frankly you should be getting a modern window that wont poop all your heat out of your home in the winter.
A good tip that I learned from an experienced handyman was cleaning the putty knife after use by scraping it with a utility knife. He took the knife and would scrape the blades of the putty knife until they were squeaky clean. Great video, I usually use the DAP that comes in a container, but after seeing this video I'll probably purchase it in the tube form. Thanks for sharing and keep the videos coming.
I started using DAP latex window glazing a few years ago, mainly because I thought it was a good idea. I had a lot of difficulty dealing with it, just because it's softer, stickier and tough to tool when fresh.I tried a different approach that I've now been using very successfully. What I do is apply a heavy bead of the latex caulk all around the window without worrying about how pretty it looks. I just make sure that it goes right to the edge. I then leave it for about 3 days, to let it set up. The I go back with my sharp Olfa knife and carefully trim it to the angle I want. Leaves a nice, even smooth finish. You probably waste about one-third of the amount you use, but the time saved and nice finished look make up for the small extra cost.I still follow the traditional approach of bedding the glass first in the latex and putting points in to hold the glass (especially on larger panes). Doesn't take that much more time to do this.Thanks for putting up that video. I think it's a pretty decent product!
On most of these windows I squirted all the latex compound onto a board and tinted it with black chalk line chalk. It dries it up a little and makes it easier to tool, with the grey paint, I didn't want to see the white compound from the inside, it worked good. I've also done it with oil based Dap 33, works good there too.
I just reglazed some windows for a friend, and was similarly frustrated when I attempted to tool the glazing after finishing it. I'm doing another old window project soon, and on top of the tips in the video like having water handy and cleaning your knife and all that, your comment is exactly what I was looking for to get a better looking finish without spending all of the extra time applying the oil-based version of the compound and waiting for it to cure. Thank you!
Thanks. This is the first job I have had that I am trying to use the tubed glazing. I started yesterday and told myself I need to find a youtube vid to see exactly how this is supposed to work. Very well explained and good demonstration. Thanks again.
Thank you!!! I needed replace a pane on my french door and was looking for how to complete the job because I broke the moulding. Great job!!! You made it so easy!!!!
Last time I tried to use latex glazing, I hated it. But after watching your vid will give it another shot. For the folks that disagreed with methods, I find that most vids have parts that are helpful and the best research is to cull parts that are helpful from multiple vids. This vid had good tooling advice. Thanks
My husband has been glazing windows for over 25 years and he said this involves way too many steps taking much longer. Customer's wouldn't be able to afford us if we did it with that many steps. Just use the caulk gun on the side (instead of the end like you were using) and it fills it in nicely.
This is perfect if you need a speedy paint job and don't want to wait a decade to paint. So the customer can have painted windows in 2 days and not the unsightly white glaze for a while
My first time using DAP, and I just need advise on how to apply. You gave even more helpful hint on the tool. Thanks, I feel more confident apply task at hand.
I have some French doors that we purchased in Santa Barbara, CA that were used by George Washington Smith. He was an architect who built beautiful Spanish style homes around 1918-1930. The doors are awesome but a few are in need of repainting and TLC. I had no idea what window glazing was and was wondering what the stuff was that was breaking off of the glass by the wood.... The gal at Home Depot introduced me to the glazing, and I was so excited to see your video on how to apply it. It is extremely helpful and very comprehensive. Thanks sooooo much!!!
+Michelle Sullivan Cool, also check out some other videos, I'm kinda taking a quick approach to this, others will suggest some additional steps which are a good idea, especially for a door.
Good demonstration using the Dap latex window glazing. Up to this point I have only used the Dap 33 glazing compound and I am tired of the drying and cracking from several years of thermal cycling. I woulld reccommend seating the pane of glass into the frame on a bead of glazing compound applied to the frame as a seal. This will also "float" the glass pane in the compound.
Great video, it's been about 45 year ago that I had to glaze a window and it was a job I hated to do, your video showing the latex makes glazing look easy.
This is a helpful video. I used the traditional glaze today on replacing a single small broken pane of glass. Next time I will use the latex in a tube, hold the tube nearly straight at a 90 degree angle to the glass and place a very small bead of clear silicone on the frame to start with. Good job and thanks!
Good question, for this particular window I did not use them since they are only small panes of glass. I case of larger panes I would, Many older windows with divided light like this example did not use them. On a large window you should, it would make it easier to install and just support the glass more I do not feel that the points would be any advantage in this case and would just ad another step, expense and time. Thanks for asking and be sure to subscribe!
Great video bro! I've read the comments in here and all I hear is a bunch of old-schoolers used to doing it the old way and complaining and pointing fingers. The nice part about this new stuff you are using here, is that it is latex.... not oil-based like Dap33 so no need to prime or seal the wood before applying the new glaze. ALSO - if they ever bought this new stuff - they would see that the instructions tell you to remove all points. This is a nu fuss no muss easy solution..... a remedy for window glazing the long and hard way. Kudos to you for this video!
I just purchased my grandmother's house and all the windows are like this an need redone. This has been the most helpful video I've come across. Plus you're a cutie.
I love this I am restoring old windows for decor wall purposes. The window glazing putty is a pain. This looks so much easier didn’t know they made a dap window glaze for a gun.
Thanks for the tips and I enjoy your relaxed, down-home style. I tried the oil based putty and it was not for me. I will try the Dap latex now that I have watched your clear instructions.
Nice job tooling the glazing. I am a professional painter and know you've done it a lot because inexperienced people do not get that result. I have used the Dap 33 for over 20 years but recently tried the tube and it really is great. I noticed you did not use any glazing points to secure the pane in the rabbet. That is potentially dangerous because since glazing stays somewhat soft and flexible for a few months until it cures and the latex glazing in the tube for caulk guns never really gets hard. Anyone that might push against the glass from inside,like a child or someone Windexing the,could push it right out.
Nick C I've taken apart a lot of windows, with many of them not having points. For panes this small and especially on my own project, I just don't worry about it. On a larger pane, I'd use them. If one pops out, I'll fix it. Thanks for the comment.
Thanks, it is a well done video, and informative. I have always used the Dap 33 in a can which all the pro painters I know swear by, and while it seems difficult at first, does get easier if you stick with it, but not ever easy as this stuff apparently is. I agree that glazing points should be used, even with smaller panes; just use less. Another thing the pros do: smear 1/16 of an inch of putty/caulk on the wood rabbet before setting in the glass, then wiggling the glass into position. That seats it much better and makes it vapor tight from the inside. A lot of vapor can get through to the wood otherwise, during the winter when the air outside is much drier than inside- in places that go below 32 in winter. But a nice video, and a good job!
@@lajohnson1lyI’ve done a ton of research and your 💯 There both hard to find though that the issue I contacted sarco days ago with no response and you can but either one here. Sadly it’s all dap I’m trying to wait but the winters coming fast
Being tired of waiting for the traditional oil-based compound to set up enough to paint and then the added step of an oil primer I am definitely going to give this a try (I have about 40 windows in my new home all needing reglazing/putty, some large, some divided lite and several small square stained glass type). I am kind of concerned that no setting bead or glazing points were used but maybe I'm missing something here. I was planning on setting the glass into a very thin bead of DAP Dynaflex Ultra in clear as some of my sash are painted and some are still natural wood. Thank you for the great video, very informative!!!
I've done many windows with both oil and this dapp water based and I prefer the dapp by far because its easier to work with, especially if ur comfortable with a caulking gun, it's doesn't require any kneading making it easier and faster to work with, the only down side is while it does skin over pretty quick,the skin isn't dry enough for well over a week, one thing I found from experience is that when using water, as he did, which I do the same thing amd woukd highly recommend, you have to be careful and wipe up an water drip immediately because ifit runs down the window pane and beads over your freshly coated bottom, it ends up creating an erosion effect and once it fully cures it will eventually crack, by then the skin is cured enough where it isn't mendable forcing you to have to redo it or leave it looking like garbage. The BIGGEST advice that I could give any trying this, regardless of what you use to spread/shape your lines and corners, clean tools and lots of water will make your job not only easier will look much cleaner in the end, that's if you want it to look like it did from the factory
great tips, love the can ,rag and knife. I'll be doing that in the future. I just used this stuff and it skinned over on me, I which point I had to say good enough.
Good video. Sure, I typically use push points, but once the glazing sets up, the glass ain't going anywhere. Keep up the good work and thanks for the pointers!
Was thinking the same thing. Also, the kid needs a better caulk gun. That think looks like it requires a lot of effort on dense material. Ace sells one with higher pressure per pull that really helps and it's only 8 or 9 bucks
Great work! I especially appreciate that you have given updated tips for the basic level diy-er who has gotten the stuff in the caulk tube dispenser. I don't have days to replace my neighbor's window, and this will help me do the best I can for him.
I also just read a LOT of your other comments down below, and you've kept a fairly civil tone, and your attitude with everyone seems respectful and not full of yourself. I already knew about points, and have a ton from my grandfather, so I didn't feel cheated. Nice work.
O my ..have put painters caulk on all wrong...even used table...what a mess i have now...So by using your method I may just try it 1 more time ...3's the charm.
You should set a bead about 1/8 inch in the rabbit before setting the panes, and then gently push the glass into the bed. Not only does that give a better seal but it protects the glass a bit and helps avoid cracking and broken panes. Also glazing points should be used.
I just bought both types of Dap glazing compounds over the weekend and wish I would have watched this prior to using the oil based glaze that comes in the tub...after one day, the putty was still not "dry"...guess it will take several days before I can use the primer...I will finish up my project with the latex version next weekend...the only thing I worry about with this is how many panes I can get out of 1 tube...this was a great video...thanks!
Nancy Crane I was checking comments right when you posted, sorry to tell you but the oil based can sometimes take quite a while to dry, up to two months. I think it says right on the can not to prime it for 2 weeks. There's pros and cons to both, the latex dries faster, but the oil based is easier to get a better appearance. My tubes had been around for a while and stiffened up, which made it easier, the compound is more like a caulking consistency than in the video, but the technique is pretty much the same, I ended up mixing in some black powder chalk with mine to tint it to the grey of the window sashes, worked good and also stiffened the compound up enough to make it easier to work.Not sure where you located, but the colder weather will extend dry times on anything that has to dry, oil or water based. Good luck with your project.
I'm in the South where the humidity is an issue but wanted to give this a try while it's been warm but not too cold. Thanks so much though; your video was a great help.
Nancy Crane I watched videos of people using the 33 glaze and thought I would be glazing with that. They did not mention that it needed an ail based paint. They did mention that it is thinned out with linseed oil which should have made the light bulb go off in my head but it didn't. I will be using latex when I get around to glazing.
Thanks for this. I just applied this stuff to two windows. I guess I should've watched this video first. It wasn't fun. What is the sound in the background? Cicadas?
Is it necessary to put the glazing behind the window as well as well as above it as shown in the video? Also, do you need to use push points? Thank you!
Great video. I wish I would have watched it before I started glazing with the oil based variety. On the video, I appreciate the care you took to get the lighting and angles right. It really helps. A question on glazing ... Some of the old glazing on my windows is still in place fine, but has some small cracks. How bad is it to just rub new glazing compound over the cracks, then repaint? I could fill the cracks in 20 minutes. It would take me 10 hours or more to completely re-glaze. Appreciate any insights here.
stevec3h8 Hi, there's a difference in the water and oil based but I think both are good in most situations. Thanks for the compliments on filming, this was the first video I filmed, It has some issues and I've improved since then but glad you liked it. As for your small cracks, I don't know. I think filling them would work, basically just use the compound like spackle and fill them quickly. Do a test, get one window filled done and see how it works, let the compound dry up some and then paint. I know the kind of cracks your talking about, very small. Paint alone might fill them, your could also maybe use exterior caulk, maybe a little easier to work into the cracks. Now of course, this is not the traditional way to go, but I would definitely try something simple before doing all the windows, especially if you solution is going to get your the same results in the end. Good luck.
You might also try Aqua Glaze and use a glazing tool. I got mine at ACE. Make sure the blade edges are nice and clean. The Aqua Glaze is supposed to dry quickly, and after tooling you can hit it lightly with sand paper to really make the edge of the glazing smooth and flat for painting. The trick to preserving the glaze is slightly overlapping the paint onto the glass to seal the glazing from water.
Your video is very instructive, HOWEVER, to "puncture hole" in the nozzle was incorrect on the tube I got. I had to drive back to the store and they "unscrewed" the nozzle and used a "hack saw" to cut the top off. THEN, you can use it. Not sure why my Dap Glazing tube was different.
Thanks, The oil based is nice stuff but the wait is so long and the need for oil based primer slows the process. The oil based is a little easier to apply because it is a better consistency (thicker) so I added black chalk to my putty in some other projects that stiffened it up a little. I was painting the compound dark grey so it worked nice. Good Luck with your project.
I’m confused on this , I called dap hotline and asked if I needed a primer with the dap33 latex and they said yes I need oil based primer first I’m wondering did I get a dummy hotline guy because I really want to avoid that oil primer first if I can
@KameraShy I worked with a guy yesterday and he also skipped the step of applying the glazing BEFORE putting in the new pane of glass. Wtf do I do now?
Thank you for your great video. I know this is an old video, so hope you see my question. When tooling the glazing with the lengthwise and angled motion, you mention that you remove the excess that squeezes out onto the window with a razor. You know - the putty the is on the pane beyond the "knife line". Do you do this while the putty is wet, or scrape it away when dry? I just tried to remove the excess putty from my window while the putty was wet, and i was VERY messy, and smeared quite a lot onto the pane, even with a sharp blade.
Thanks for the video! I’ve decided to go with the latex window glazing instead of the dap 33 putty as exterior oil based primer has been sold out for months! Do you have any idea the longevity of this glazing?
Very nice work at showing the process of glazing; your tips and methods are greatly appreciated. I noticed you didn't use glaziers points, is there a particular reason why you did not do so?
You didn't bed or pin the glass... its great you can work the sub par product. I only use dap glaze for bedding (something ya didn't know was needed) FYI glass needs to be set( or beded) in glazing before its glazed
I applaud your video... I learned a lot from it and from the comments. You worked hard on this in trying to teach us ..me.. who is gi jj ng to do the first time tomorrow because my son just broke a window.. the caulk seemed harder to use than the putty ... and messy. I saw some of other vids using the sandy colored putty seemed easier and cleaner to manage. Without water and runoff. Still you did a nice job and good pointers ... no pun j tended. I need to get those metal pointers described.. j was wondering how the glass would stay put in the rabbit groove. I guess that's how... anyhow. Nice job on this video. Thanks for posting.
@@thehomesteadcraftsman8975 Every time I get the Dap33 in the tub it is dried out and even after working with it in my hands is hard and hard to work with.
This was very helpful, but you didn’t put glaze down the center on the wood between the panes. Does that mean I don’t have to? That’s where I’m really messing things up.
(wow folks get pretty intense about window glazing.) Thanks for this video, it was easy to watch & shot in a beautiful environment too :) I'll be trying some glazing for the first time, on some of my old cottage windows... I'll probably try the DAP. I think I will use some points too, based on some of the heated comments below!! Lol But thanks for your tips & your time, I enjoyed watching this. Peace
What do you do if your glazing compound has started to dry out? (and you don't want to buy a new one) One website I saw said mix it in with hot water, another said linseed oil.
Seems as you don't have to be to picky at what caulking you choose as long as its a good silicone/rubber/latex based for exterior uses /bathrooms caulking that can hold the window reasonable well to reinforce the glazing clips.
That’s exactly what I was looking for.... thank you 😊 Now I just need to know how to remove the old window first. I would rather not have to break it out, just hopefully remove old putty and pull it out without breaking it.
Patience, you can also try steam. If you have a handheld steamer you might be able to soften the glazing enough to remove it. That is what I plan to try on some stubborn stuff.
@@czmiccommando537 …. Thanks. I planned on replacing a hard water stained window but I ended up not having the confidence to do it after all. So today, I pushed on the window slightly and accidentally cracked it. 🫤 I think I have no choice now… I’m gonna try your method. Wish me luck… 🤞
Thanks for the video. I first tried this by caulking all the way around then tooling but ended up with a sloppy mess and too much excess. was about to give up but then tried squeezing the caulking out on a palette then scooping it up with putty knife and troweling it into the rabbet giving me better control with less waste. Looks decent and works well without waiting a month to paint.
+john fitzgerald I've done the same, the tubes I used in the video where not as runny as others I've used. I've also shot it all out before and tinted it with black, chalk line chalk which thickened it up and made it more workable. I also like the oil based, but there's a good amount of wait time after.
Thanks for posting your video. I can see that the product you used could have a huge advantage since you don't need to wait a month (or more) to paint. Have you noticed any shrinkage, or does the glazing remain straight and smooth over time? I've seen caulks used for glazing before, and they sometimes end up with a bit of a concave surface.
So far it seems good, no cracks. It does shrink a little when it drys. I still need to paint over the compound. I think both products are good products but for quick repairs, I like the water based. If I was going to do a ton of windows I would use the Dap 33 most likely due to cost. Also, the 33 looks great if tooled correctly. The water based is not as easy to shape, but looks ok. Most windows you are not standing right at them, so you wont see little imperfections. I would advise trying the product on just a couple panes to see if you like it before buying a ton of it. Hope this helps.
The Homestead Craftsman Thanks for the reply. I've done a lot of window work myself, but I'm always interested to hear about people's experiences. How many months old is the caulk you applied now? I don't expect it will ever crack. What I typically see is a bit of a concave surface, and for some reason, dust seems to like to stick to the caulk (if it's unpainted, at least) more than it does to putty. Also, have you ever needed to replace a broken lite when it was set with caulk as opposed to putty?
thanks buddy. my own experience today was a disaster. could not get the jar of dap to work with me. the push points would not go into the wood. glass didn't break but probably will. screw the pros. they wanted 200 bucks to come do this. next time my wife says she broke the key off in the lock, I will call a locksmith.
Thank you and your welcome! I'll be posting some more videos on windows soon. I made two arch top stained glass windows and window frames that hinge like double doors. I plan on making a video just to show them so people can see how simple it is and that they can do something similar with little to no experience. I'll post a link to this video once I make the video but if you would like to get updates of my videos subscribe to my channel. Thanks for the comment and good luck with your projects.
In my opinion all the expert advise and a $1.50 will get you good cup of coffee. Having jumped forward to 2019 and seeing the type of work you can do and the extent of your abilities I say ignore them. I could only hope to be able to do half of what you can and have done. I am a sub to all three of your channels please keep the videos coming. Florida, USA
No good deed goes unpunished Mr. Craftsman. No need for the yippy yappy putty snob critics to attack you like that. (As a complete beginner I take to heart their point about the points but the way some went about it with their noses out of joint and sticking straight up in the air just ticks me good.) I for one have your vid stashed. Best one on the net for the tube putty, hands down. Dap ought to reward you. Great job and a huge help and thanks!
And PS for Putty snobs. Those that can't...criticize. Where are YOUR vids demonstrating your excellent self-professed talent? Hmm?
Wish I could like your comment more than once.
Seems to be a lot of glazing virtuosos out there but no videos demonstrating their prowess.
Thanks for putting out the video, nice techniques, especially tooling off the compound. I'd add a couple things: prime the rabbets and let dry. DAP calls for a thin back bead and glazing points. If your interiors are stained use clear silicon. The pro-tips of having a little container of water and two rags are key. Well done
For novices: If you haven't used a caulking gun before, you'll notice that usually there is a small wire "rod" on the bottom side of the gun that is held in place by a screw that allows it to be folded back out of the way, or swung to the front where it sticks out like a bayonet. That little rod is used to slip down the opening of your caulking tube nozzle to break the aluminum seal.
This is the best instructional video I've seen for reglazing windows.
First you should put a thin layer of compound on the wood to embed the glass into for a better seal.
Next 'prime' the wood with linseed oil, penetrol, floetrol, even paint primer so that the dried wood doesn't suck the moisture out of the glazing compound too quickly. This makes for a slower cure time and better adhesion.
That's true with putty. The product he's using is laytex. Wood doesn't suck stuff out of it. No oil needed. He tells you all of this in the video. If you check on the sides of your head you'll find these things called ears. They allow you to hear sounds other people are making. These sounds are called "words" and allow them to communicate information to you.
@@MeepChangelingactually your incorrect you do need to use a oil based primer first
It says so both on the dap website and if you call there 800 number
Now all that crap you wrote about using your ears has made you look …. Well maybe think about ridiculing someone for no reason next time and you won’t look so bad ?
Great work and voice. Nice to see honest pride of work in a youngster. You’ll have a good life. God Bless
I almost didn't watch this because I could tell it was a young guy and there was another video with an older guy, who I assumed would probably know more than some whipper snapper. Then I realized it was the Homestead Craftsman! Thanks so much for the helpful video!
Thank you! I had to replace the window in an old barn that blew out in a storm. It might have been oil based, but it was so old that most of the paint was pealing off. So I sanded it down really well (yes, I used a mask, and maybe it was even lead based paint from 100 years ago, so I probably should have used an N95), then I used water based primer (2 coats) then latex outdoor paint (2 coats). Bought the DAP 33 for the glazing, and after reading the instructions realized I couldn't use it because it was for oil based paint. So after several other searches on what to use, I found your video and will do the DAP latex glazing and give it a try. I appreciate the video, it gives me more confidence, since I've never done this before. I already had my points in before watching this video. I had purchased points at the hardware store, but found my Dad's old points from years ago. I guess he did this himself too, but he's not around so I can't for his advice. Another video suggested I place a small bead behind the glass to seat it, so I'll do this too. Keep up the good work, I'm going to use your technique!
This was very helpful. Broke a window and was able to get it replaced myself with help from this video
One of the very best "how to" videos I have ever come across. Nicely detailed and orderly presentation with an excellent review at the end with handy reminders.
Lindsey Dutton Thanks
Thanks for the video. You saved me a lot of time because I started using the oil based one and I haven't cleaned the windows good enough. And I was using my finger with nitrile gloves on and the gloves would get too tacky after a couple of minutes. Then I realized I must be doing something wrong here. Thanks , sometimes simple things go along way in making life easier.
Same! I HATE this oil glaze! Hopefully, This will work easier!!!
After reading the comments on this video, while it may not be the perfect method, at least he might inspire people to save their old windows, instead of horrible vinyl replacements. When I started to get into old windows a few years ago, I re-glazed the old windows in my bedroom with the same method he's using. Now, I am starting a side job on a large, historcal commercial building downtown (20-some plus huge windows). Strip the paint, oil-based primer, back-bed with Dap 33, set the glass, face-glaze, prime glazing, then 2 coats of finish paint. My point is, everyone has to start somewhere, and learn from their mistakes. So don't hammer the guy!
If your just doing windows I would agree but as a professional painter who has to get a 3200 sq ft exterior painted in a week with 20 plus windows that need glazing knowing 33 glazing does not properly set to paint within a week tube glazing has been a life safer.We bed it, Use our points and once we run the glaze out the tubes we gently run our fingers come back the next day it's ready for prime...Will agree if you have the time and are looking for a more professional look your way is the way to go..In business you have to know what makes since & what doesn't.
It is important to bed the glass into a tiny bit of putty on the other side of the pane to stop moisture penetration on the other side.
No it isn't. 1. This is laytex, not old fashioned plaster of pairs crap. It gets squished in there by the tube action real good. Better than you can jam mud into the crack with a fingie. 2. You're far better off just putting a silicone sealent on the other side of the window once it's dry to 100% airproof and water proof the panes. 3. Frankly you should be getting a modern window that wont poop all your heat out of your home in the winter.
A good tip that I learned from an experienced handyman was cleaning the putty knife after use by scraping it with a utility knife. He took the knife and would scrape the blades of the putty knife until they were squeaky clean. Great video, I usually use the DAP that comes in a container, but after seeing this video I'll probably purchase it in the tube form. Thanks for sharing and keep the videos coming.
I started using DAP latex window glazing a few years ago, mainly because I thought it was a good idea. I had a lot of difficulty dealing with it, just because it's softer, stickier and tough to tool when fresh.I tried a different approach that I've now been using very successfully. What I do is apply a heavy bead of the latex caulk all around the window without worrying about how pretty it looks. I just make sure that it goes right to the edge. I then leave it for about 3 days, to let it set up. The I go back with my sharp Olfa knife and carefully trim it to the angle I want. Leaves a nice, even smooth finish. You probably waste about one-third of the amount you use, but the time saved and nice finished look make up for the small extra cost.I still follow the traditional approach of bedding the glass first in the latex and putting points in to hold the glass (especially on larger panes). Doesn't take that much more time to do this.Thanks for putting up that video. I think it's a pretty decent product!
On most of these windows I squirted all the latex compound onto a board and tinted it with black chalk line chalk. It dries it up a little and makes it easier to tool, with the grey paint, I didn't want to see the white compound from the inside, it worked good. I've also done it with oil based Dap 33, works good there too.
I just reglazed some windows for a friend, and was similarly frustrated when I attempted to tool the glazing after finishing it. I'm doing another old window project soon, and on top of the tips in the video like having water handy and cleaning your knife and all that, your comment is exactly what I was looking for to get a better looking finish without spending all of the extra time applying the oil-based version of the compound and waiting for it to cure. Thank you!
Thanks. This is the first job I have had that I am trying to use the tubed glazing. I started yesterday and told myself I need to find a youtube vid to see exactly how this is supposed to work. Very well explained and good demonstration. Thanks again.
ness9111 your welcome.
Thank you!!! I needed replace a pane on my french door and was looking for how to complete the job because I broke the moulding. Great job!!! You made it so easy!!!!
Last time I tried to use latex glazing, I hated it. But after watching your vid will give it another
shot. For the folks that disagreed with methods, I find that most vids have parts that are helpful
and the best research is to cull parts that are helpful from multiple vids. This vid had good tooling
advice. Thanks
My husband has been glazing windows for over 25 years and he said this involves way too many steps taking much longer. Customer's wouldn't be able to afford us if we did it with that many steps. Just use the caulk gun on the side (instead of the end like you were using) and it fills it in nicely.
For Liberty thats why its a diy vid
This is perfect if you need a speedy paint job and don't want to wait a decade to paint. So the customer can have painted windows in 2 days and not the unsightly white glaze for a while
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My first time using DAP, and I just need advise on how to apply. You gave even more helpful hint on the tool. Thanks, I feel more confident apply task at hand.
I have some French doors that we purchased in Santa Barbara, CA that were used by George Washington Smith. He was an architect who built beautiful Spanish style homes around 1918-1930. The doors are awesome but a few are in need of repainting and TLC. I had no idea what window glazing was and was wondering what the stuff was that was breaking off of the glass by the wood.... The gal at Home Depot introduced me to the glazing, and I was so excited to see your video on how to apply it. It is extremely helpful and very comprehensive. Thanks sooooo much!!!
+Michelle Sullivan Cool, also check out some other videos, I'm kinda taking a quick approach to this, others will suggest some additional steps which are a good idea, especially for a door.
Good demonstration using the Dap latex window glazing. Up to this point I have only used the Dap 33 glazing compound and I am tired of the drying and cracking from several years of thermal cycling. I woulld reccommend seating the pane of glass into the frame on a bead of glazing compound applied to the frame as a seal. This will also "float" the glass pane in the compound.
Kathy Emmel Thanks.
Very clear and simple instructions. Sooo helpful. Thank you!!
New to the cartridge method, thanks for the tips and listing all the advantages of this product vs. the old oil based procedure…
Glad I watched your video before I busted out the oil based putty! Your way is so much easier............thank-you, Yvonne (London, Ontario)
Great video, it's been about 45 year ago that I had to glaze a window and it was a job I hated to do, your video showing the latex makes glazing look easy.
This is a helpful video. I used the traditional glaze today on replacing a single small broken pane of glass. Next time I will use the latex in a tube, hold the tube nearly straight at a 90 degree angle to the glass and place a very small bead of clear silicone on the frame to start with. Good job and thanks!
Great video very helpful
Can you report how the dap has held up now these years later ?
Best looking shop on TH-cam
Good question, for this particular window I did not use them since they are only small panes of glass. I case of larger panes I would, Many older windows with divided light like this example did not use them. On a large window you should, it would make it easier to install and just support the glass more I do not feel that the points would be any advantage in this case and would just ad another step, expense and time. Thanks for asking and be sure to subscribe!
Great video bro! I've read the comments in here and all I hear is a bunch of old-schoolers used to doing it the old way and complaining and pointing fingers. The nice part about this new stuff you are using here, is that it is latex.... not oil-based like Dap33 so no need to prime or seal the wood before applying the new glaze. ALSO - if they ever bought this new stuff - they would see that the instructions tell you to remove all points. This is a nu fuss no muss easy solution..... a remedy for window glazing the long and hard way. Kudos to you for this video!
I just purchased my grandmother's house and all the windows are like this an need redone. This has been the most helpful video I've come across. Plus you're a cutie.
I love this I am restoring old windows for decor wall purposes. The window glazing putty is a pain. This looks so much easier didn’t know they made a dap window glaze for a gun.
Thanks for the tips and I enjoy your relaxed, down-home style. I tried the oil based putty and it was not for me. I will try the Dap latex now that I have watched your clear instructions.
Very well explained, Thank You. Now I know how to do it. Going to glaze a couple window panes that I just replaced
Word.
Nice job tooling the glazing. I am a professional painter and know you've done it a lot because inexperienced people do not get that result. I have used the Dap 33 for over 20 years but recently tried the tube and it really is great. I noticed you did not use any glazing points to secure the pane in the rabbet. That is potentially dangerous because since glazing stays somewhat soft and flexible for a few months until it cures and the latex glazing in the tube for caulk guns never really gets hard. Anyone that might push against the glass from inside,like a child or someone Windexing the,could push it right out.
Nick C I've taken apart a lot of windows, with many of them not having points. For panes this small and especially on my own project, I just don't worry about it. On a larger pane, I'd use them. If one pops out, I'll fix it. Thanks for the comment.
Yea, you're right about that.
Thank you so much for showing me how to use it :) I bought the Dap in the tube but I didn't know exactly how to use it :) Now thanks to you I do !
Thanks, it is a well done video, and informative. I have always used the Dap 33 in a can which all the pro painters I know swear by, and while it seems difficult at first, does get easier if you stick with it, but not ever easy as this stuff apparently is. I agree that glazing points should be used, even with smaller panes; just use less. Another thing the pros do: smear 1/16 of an inch of putty/caulk on the wood rabbet before setting in the glass, then wiggling the glass into position. That seats it much better and makes it vapor tight from the inside. A lot of vapor can get through to the wood otherwise, during the winter when the air outside is much drier than inside- in places that go below 32 in winter. But a nice video, and a good job!
Professionals who restore windows don't use DAP. The industry standard calls for Sarco or Glazol.
@@lajohnson1lyI’ve done a ton of research and your 💯
There both hard to find though that the issue
I contacted sarco days ago with no response and you can but either one here. Sadly it’s all dap I’m trying to wait but the winters coming fast
@@Farner49 I think Abatron sells Sarco on its website.
Thanks, man! Your instruction was very clear and concise. I have to do a window with the latex glazing today, and your video helped.
Being tired of waiting for the traditional oil-based compound to set up enough to paint and then the added step of an oil primer I am definitely going to give this a try (I have about 40 windows in my new home all needing reglazing/putty, some large, some divided lite and several small square stained glass type). I am kind of concerned that no setting bead or glazing points were used but maybe I'm missing something here. I was planning on setting the glass into a very thin bead of DAP Dynaflex Ultra in clear as some of my sash are painted and some are still natural wood. Thank you for the great video, very informative!!!
I've done many windows with both oil and this dapp water based and I prefer the dapp by far because its easier to work with, especially if ur comfortable with a caulking gun, it's doesn't require any kneading making it easier and faster to work with, the only down side is while it does skin over pretty quick,the skin isn't dry enough for well over a week, one thing I found from experience is that when using water, as he did, which I do the same thing amd woukd highly recommend, you have to be careful and wipe up an water drip immediately because ifit runs down the window pane and beads over your freshly coated bottom, it ends up creating an erosion effect and once it fully cures it will eventually crack, by then the skin is cured enough where it isn't mendable forcing you to have to redo it or leave it looking like garbage. The BIGGEST advice that I could give any trying this, regardless of what you use to spread/shape your lines and corners, clean tools and lots of water will make your job not only easier will look much cleaner in the end, that's if you want it to look like it did from the factory
I am working on glazing the windows to my garage and found this video incredibly helpful. Thank you for posting!
great tips, love the can ,rag and knife. I'll be doing that in the future. I just used this stuff and it skinned over on me, I which point I had to say good enough.
Great tips - thanks man! Trying to decide between this and Sarco type M.
Good video. Sure, I typically use push points, but once the glazing sets up, the glass ain't going anywhere.
Keep up the good work and thanks for the pointers!
We use this kind of glazing where I work but, in my own experience, I've only used putty. I've had trouble getting used to this material.
You are the Man ! Thank you very much. Very helpful. Dap does not even have a good video on their website. Thank you again. I subscribed by the way.
Great video. Very helpful. Just restored 1927 French door.
a lot of caulking guns have a metal rod for popping the foil or poking through dry latex
Was thinking the same thing. Also, the kid needs a better caulk gun. That think looks like it requires a lot of effort on dense material. Ace sells one with higher pressure per pull that really helps and it's only 8 or 9 bucks
Great video, thank you. I can see the artist touch!
Great work! I especially appreciate that you have given updated tips for the basic level diy-er who has gotten the stuff in the caulk tube dispenser. I don't have days to replace my neighbor's window, and this will help me do the best I can for him.
I also just read a LOT of your other comments down below, and you've kept a fairly civil tone, and your attitude with everyone seems respectful and not full of yourself. I already knew about points, and have a ton from my grandfather, so I didn't feel cheated. Nice work.
This was just the tutorial I needed ! well done!
Tanks for the video. I was ready to quit but now I have tips to a good performance.
O my ..have put painters caulk on all wrong...even used table...what a mess i have now...So by using your method I may just try it 1 more time ...3's the charm.
You should set a bead about 1/8 inch in the rabbit before setting the panes, and then gently push the glass into the bed. Not only does that give a better seal but it protects the glass a bit and helps avoid cracking and broken panes. Also glazing points should be used.
I just bought both types of Dap glazing compounds over the weekend and wish I would have watched this prior to using the oil based glaze that comes in the tub...after one day, the putty was still not "dry"...guess it will take several days before I can use the primer...I will finish up my project with the latex version next weekend...the only thing I worry about with this is how many panes I can get out of 1 tube...this was a great video...thanks!
Nancy Crane I was checking comments right when you posted, sorry to tell you but the oil based can sometimes take quite a while to dry, up to two months. I think it says right on the can not to prime it for 2 weeks. There's pros and cons to both, the latex dries faster, but the oil based is easier to get a better appearance. My tubes had been around for a while and stiffened up, which made it easier, the compound is more like a caulking consistency than in the video, but the technique is pretty much the same, I ended up mixing in some black powder chalk with mine to tint it to the grey of the window sashes, worked good and also stiffened the compound up enough to make it easier to work.Not sure where you located, but the colder weather will extend dry times on anything that has to dry, oil or water based. Good luck with your project.
I'm in the South where the humidity is an issue but wanted to give this a try while it's been warm but not too cold. Thanks so much though; your video was a great help.
Nancy Crane I watched videos of people using the 33 glaze and thought I would be glazing with that. They did not mention that it needed an ail based paint. They did mention that it is thinned out with linseed oil which should have made the light bulb go off in my head but it didn't. I will be using latex when I get around to glazing.
Try wet finger tooling the corners first, then spatula as you showed if you prefer a slightly smoother rounded corner rather than the sharp edges.
Thanks for your video it’s helped me on this window fix doing it for the first time
Thanks for this. I just applied this stuff to two windows. I guess I should've watched this video first. It wasn't fun. What is the sound in the background? Cicadas?
I'll use the things I learned here in the next 15 minutes!
Is it necessary to put the glazing behind the window as well as well as above it as shown in the video? Also, do you need to use push points? Thank you!
Great video. I wish I would have watched it before I started glazing with the oil based variety. On the video, I appreciate the care you took to get the lighting and angles right. It really helps. A question on glazing ... Some of the old glazing on my windows is still in place fine, but has some small cracks. How bad is it to just rub new glazing compound over the cracks, then repaint? I could fill the cracks in 20 minutes. It would take me 10 hours or more to completely re-glaze. Appreciate any insights here.
stevec3h8 Hi, there's a difference in the water and oil based but I think both are good in most situations. Thanks for the compliments on filming, this was the first video I filmed, It has some issues and I've improved since then but glad you liked it. As for your small cracks, I don't know. I think filling them would work, basically just use the compound like spackle and fill them quickly. Do a test, get one window filled done and see how it works, let the compound dry up some and then paint. I know the kind of cracks your talking about, very small. Paint alone might fill them, your could also maybe use exterior caulk, maybe a little easier to work into the cracks. Now of course, this is not the traditional way to go, but I would definitely try something simple before doing all the windows, especially if you solution is going to get your the same results in the end. Good luck.
You should still put glazier points in if that stuff starts to dry out there's nothing holding it in the frame anymore...
You might also try Aqua Glaze and use a glazing tool. I got mine at ACE. Make sure the blade edges are nice and clean. The Aqua Glaze is supposed to dry quickly, and after tooling you can hit it lightly with sand paper to really make the edge of the glazing smooth and flat for painting. The trick to preserving the glaze is slightly overlapping the paint onto the glass to seal the glazing from water.
I also clean the glass with denatured alcohol prior to painting on to it to give it a good bond.
Definitely use glazing points as well. I just read through the comments.
Thank you for a clear,easy to understand,and very educational video.A great help to diy'ers like myself.
Robert Hays Your welcome.
Good explanation, but why didn't you " Bed " the glass and use points to hold the glass in before you completed the outside bevel...???
Your video is very instructive, HOWEVER, to "puncture hole" in the nozzle was incorrect on the tube I got. I had to drive back to the store and they "unscrewed" the nozzle and used a "hack saw" to cut the top off. THEN, you can use it. Not sure why my Dap Glazing tube was different.
Thanks for a well done demonstration .... I learned a lot.
Thanks, The oil based is nice stuff but the wait is so long and the need for oil based primer slows the process. The oil based is a little easier to apply because it is a better consistency (thicker) so I added black chalk to my putty in some other projects that stiffened it up a little. I was painting the compound dark grey so it worked nice. Good Luck with your project.
I’m confused on this , I called dap hotline and asked if I needed a primer with the dap33 latex and they said yes I need oil based primer first
I’m wondering did I get a dummy hotline guy because I really want to avoid that oil primer first if I can
Aren’t glazing points necessary to hold pane in place?
YES! Further, it is necessary to back putty between the frame and the glass. Otherwise it won't seal and you risk breaking the glass.
Glazing points hold the glass in place so that it dose not fall out. Glazing keeps the water from rotting the wood.
@@VJification You guys saved my questions and my time watching this any further.
@@KameraShyYeah, you're supposed to (1) apply putty to the muntins (2) place glass in muntins and (3) apply muntin around the edges.
@KameraShy I worked with a guy yesterday and he also skipped the step of applying the glazing BEFORE putting in the new pane of glass. Wtf do I do now?
Nice to see a contractor who looks healthy. Nice video.
Thank you for your great video. I know this is an old video, so hope you see my question.
When tooling the glazing with the lengthwise and angled motion, you mention that you remove the excess that squeezes out onto the window with a razor. You know - the putty the is on the pane beyond the "knife line". Do you do this while the putty is wet, or scrape it away when dry?
I just tried to remove the excess putty from my window while the putty was wet, and i was VERY messy, and smeared quite a lot onto the pane, even with a sharp blade.
For sure it comes off easier when it’s dried
Thanks for the video! I’ve decided to go with the latex window glazing instead of the dap 33 putty as exterior oil based primer has been sold out for months! Do you have any idea the longevity of this glazing?
Did you use metal glazing points?
are push points not necessary with this product?
Where are the glazing points to hold the window panes in place?
Thanks man I'm going to do some tomorrow this was helpful
Very nice work at showing the process of glazing; your tips and methods are greatly appreciated. I noticed you didn't use glaziers points, is there a particular reason why you did not do so?
I wonder how long this putty lasts. Is it like latex caulk where it breaks down quickly outside?
Hey man very simple informative video, keep up the great work
You didn't bed or pin the glass... its great you can work the sub par product. I only use dap glaze for bedding (something ya didn't know was needed) FYI glass needs to be set( or beded) in glazing before its glazed
I applaud your video... I learned a lot from it and from the comments. You worked hard on this in trying to teach us ..me.. who is gi jj ng to do the first time tomorrow because my son just broke a window.. the caulk seemed harder to use than the putty ... and messy. I saw some of other vids using the sandy colored putty seemed easier and cleaner to manage. Without water and runoff. Still you did a nice job and good pointers ... no pun j tended. I need to get those metal pointers described.. j was wondering how the glass would stay put in the rabbit groove. I guess that's how... anyhow. Nice job on this video. Thanks for posting.
Numis Mm Thanks. The Dapp 33 is easier, but dry time and need for oil based primer is something that I wanted to avoid.
@@thehomesteadcraftsman8975 Every time I get the Dap33 in the tub it is dried out and even after working with it in my hands is hard and hard to work with.
My brother enjoys puttying it takes patients for sure.
This was very helpful, but you didn’t put glaze down the center on the wood between the panes. Does that mean I don’t have to? That’s where I’m really messing things up.
(wow folks get pretty intense about window glazing.) Thanks for this video, it was easy to watch & shot in a beautiful environment too :) I'll be trying some glazing for the first time, on some of my old cottage windows... I'll probably try the DAP. I think I will use some points too, based on some of the heated comments below!! Lol But thanks for your tips & your time, I enjoyed watching this. Peace
What do you do if your glazing compound has started to dry out? (and you don't want to buy a new one) One website I saw said mix it in with hot water, another said linseed oil.
Seems as you don't have to be to picky at what caulking you choose as long as its a good silicone/rubber/latex based for exterior uses /bathrooms caulking that can hold the window reasonable well to reinforce the glazing clips.
Thank you from San Francisco!!!
That’s exactly what I was looking for.... thank you 😊 Now I just need to know how to remove the old window first. I would rather not have to break it out, just hopefully remove old putty and pull it out without breaking it.
Patience, you can also try steam. If you have a handheld steamer you might be able to soften the glazing enough to remove it. That is what I plan to try on some stubborn stuff.
@@czmiccommando537 …. Thanks. I planned on replacing a hard water stained window but I ended up not having the confidence to do it after all. So today, I pushed on the window slightly and accidentally cracked it. 🫤 I think I have no choice now… I’m gonna try your method. Wish me luck… 🤞
Thanks for the video. I first tried this by caulking all the way around then tooling but ended up with a sloppy mess and too much excess. was about to give up but then tried squeezing the caulking out on a palette then scooping it up with putty knife and troweling it into the rabbet giving me better control with less waste. Looks decent and works well without waiting a month to paint.
+john fitzgerald I've done the same, the tubes I used in the video where not as runny as others I've used. I've also shot it all out before and tinted it with black, chalk line chalk which thickened it up and made it more workable. I also like the oil based, but there's a good amount of wait time after.
Thanks for posting your video. I can see that the product you used could have a huge advantage since you don't need to wait a month (or more) to paint. Have you noticed any shrinkage, or does the glazing remain straight and smooth over time? I've seen caulks used for glazing before, and they sometimes end up with a bit of a concave surface.
So far it seems good, no cracks. It does shrink a little when it drys. I still need to paint over the compound. I think both products are good products but for quick repairs, I like the water based. If I was going to do a ton of windows I would use the Dap 33 most likely due to cost. Also, the 33 looks great if tooled correctly. The water based is not as easy to shape, but looks ok. Most windows you are not standing right at them, so you wont see little imperfections. I would advise trying the product on just a couple panes to see if you like it before buying a ton of it. Hope this helps.
The Homestead Craftsman
Thanks for the reply. I've done a lot of window work myself, but I'm always interested to hear about people's experiences. How many months old is the caulk you applied now? I don't expect it will ever crack. What I typically see is a bit of a concave surface, and for some reason, dust seems to like to stick to the caulk (if it's unpainted, at least) more than it does to putty. Also, have you ever needed to replace a broken lite when it was set with caulk as opposed to putty?
Excellent explanation, way to go
thanks buddy. my own experience today was a disaster. could not get the jar of dap to work with me. the push points would not go into the wood. glass didn't break but probably will. screw the pros. they wanted 200 bucks to come do this. next time my wife says she broke the key off in the lock, I will call a locksmith.
Thank you for the video! That was very helpful.
do you live in the south? i hear some familiar background noise...
Very cool. Everything is simple once it has been explained... Thanks for posting.
Thank you and your welcome! I'll be posting some more videos on windows soon. I made two arch top stained glass windows and window frames that hinge like double doors. I plan on making a video just to show them so people can see how simple it is and that they can do something similar with little to no experience. I'll post a link to this video once I make the video but if you would like to get updates of my videos subscribe to my channel. Thanks for the comment and good luck with your projects.
what is the difference between this window glazing compound and acrylic latex caulk, eg ALEX at Home Depot?
Great video! thanks for the tips! What is that howling sound in the background? Made it really hard to listen all the way through,lol.
In my opinion all the expert advise and a $1.50 will get you good cup of coffee. Having jumped forward to 2019 and seeing the type of work you can do and the extent of your abilities I say ignore them. I could only hope to be able to do half of what you can and have done. I am a sub to all three of your channels please keep the videos coming. Florida, USA