Be careful with using a heat gun, I restored one of my windows a few years ago, the heat gun cracked a few panes. It wasn't cold in the room, but my heat gun temp couldn't be adjusted so the temperature change was probably still too high...
You are a masterful window restorer and give excellent clear explanations. I would like to see a detailed glazing video. The glazing skill set. The mindset. Tools etc. That measured scraper you made to fit perfectly was awesome.
Sometimes old window panes break from the heat shock of the heat gun or torch. You can try to minimize the risk by putting wooden boards on top of the panes when heating, right next to the putty.
Great video, great editing, chill music, perfect product recommendations - Nicely done. Having started my craftsman journey in boat service and repairs I am constantly amazed how few people have any awareness of the products and solutions readily available in marine applications. Nearly every product you can find at big box hardware stores, automotive supply, and rv/trailer supply are very weak, temporary, finnicky, and fail for countless reasons. When you're looking for paint, adhesives, fasteners, hardware, etc that should be as permanent as possible - go directly to the marine supply store. It'll cost extra but you'll never need to revisit the repair... Unless you put your house in the ocean and bake it in UV light, ha
Great info but if the sash paint is older than 1978 it's best to assume it has lead based paint. Therefore you want to wear a respirator rated for lead and asbestos (pink filte)r as well as working coveralls and gloves and disposable booties that you'd leave in the work area and not track into your home. also only use a HEPA vacuums or HEPA filters Airborne particles can stay suspended in the air for quite a long time if there's not good ventilation. To reduce airborne dust particles you can also use a cream-based paint stripper that will lift gently the manyi layers of toxic and non-toxic paint.
That's great and all. But proper disposal of lead paint chips is.... throw it in your residential trash can. I asked Georgia state EPA duty officer "why!?".... he said "lead level in household paint is low".
@@joey-mp3qc Sorry low is not accurate enough. It's my understanding that any amount between 25 and 80 micrograms per deciliter can cause serious health problems in an individual and that is so tiny an amount that you may not be able to discern it visually.
@@paulsmith5035 Only for small children, really. I just removed 10 lead painted windows with little precautions and had no issues. And my contractor who specializes in restoring old homes shrugged and said "Most home have it, no need to panic working around it".
Believe me,the older I get the less I pretend to comprehend the Supreme Omniscience who governs His/Her worlds.But to one who chewed on a thick lead base paint crib rail, played with mercury , and spent 4 years inside a decommissioned Navy ship,( at times in force 9 seas), this conversation makes me feel incredibly grateful to be a very much alive artist and gym rat 😁
Thank you for linking everything you used, that was very helpful! What brand of paint do you recommend for the finishing coat? Thanks. By the way, another video on your glazing tricks would be fantastic!
Very impressive, and encouraging to witness a craftsman after encountering folks who dont know of youre value. I'm curious though, Is this just one layer of glass? If so, where do you live that double panne windows are not being employed ? And, I've been told to use Bondo to replace some rot on the bottom of one of my 16 wooden windows.Some people in my subdivision have paid a lot to have their wooden double pane windows replaced with vlnal ones. Any coments would be apreciated.
Thank you for a very useful and inspiring (and emboldening) video! A couple questions: 1) Did you document how to remove the sashes, whether the perimeter framing needed repair and how you did that? 2) I did notice in quick glimpses that some of your pieces of the frame were in very bad shape, basically rotted away. Did you use the FixWood to rebuild those, or did you have to replace some of the wood members? 3) Did you consider replacing the single pane windows with dual panes? Surely the weight would be greater, but you could also increase the weight on the counterweights? Thanks!
Thanks Jeffrey, 1. I did not document the removal process. Typically in these wood windows, there is an outer trim piece that needs removed which frees up the bottom sash. Then the top sash is still behind a middle trim piece. Usually these can be difficult to get out depending on the amount of nails, caulk, and paint that has been built up. In some cases I just make new middle pieces for reinstall. The frames were in good shape but the exterior windowsill did need replaced. 2. Some of the sashes were in bad shape and I did replace the bottom piece. 3. These were to be brought back to as original as possible so keeping the original glass was necessary. It may be difficult to replace with a dual panel since the rabbet is usually not more than 1/2 to 5/8 deep. These also did not have ropes or weights, but reinstalled with the top sash sealed in place and the bottom sash moveable. Thanks for your questions!
@@WorkshopHustle Thank you for the details. I've found other videos that helped me with dismantling the sash windows. We have a LOT of them, and maybe 25 years ago I had a craftsman service them all, so they're in pretty good shape, nicely serviceable by a tinkerer like me. The exterior surfaces are weather-worn, but the wood still looks good. House is 96 years old! Thanks again!
If you plan on doing a lot of paint removal, it's worthwhile to invest in an infrared tool. It works so much better than a heat gun and its a lot safer Also, high quality auto body filler (aka high quality Bondo) is a great alternative to wood filler epoxy and its considered "acceptable" in the historical preservation & restoration community
Great video. Hi m8, any tips on how to get a straighter putty line that has previosly paintented gloss enamel on the window, i am giving it a light sand to recoat with oil enamel again, but on some section would like to straighten up the putty edge that has chipped away but do not want to replace putty, maybe a filler? Cheers.
Hey, I do these locally for historic buildings usually once or twice a year. I learned a lot about glazing by watching Earth+Flax Studio’s videos. They break it down much slower than I did. There is a lot of technique you can learn on TH-cam. Thanks for watching!
That is hard to gauge but I would say that for a 6 pane window like this, if you were to replace with new wood windows in the same period style it may be about the same cost. I am in the historic restoration industry, which has a lot of rules and red tape, usually meaning we try to restore before having to replace. Most of the windows I restore are very unique in shape or glass and would be much more expensive to replace with new.
It's generally cheaper to buy instead. The amount of time it takes for e. g. a company to restore X amount of windows is larger then making from scratch.
It’s more expensive to replace for several reasons: 1) Replacements generally aren’t available, not even in “common” sizes. Wood windows are no longer mainstream product. Go to Home Depot or Lowe’s if unsure about that. 2) As with #1, talk to any window company and I’m about 4 seconds they’ll go on and on about how modern windows are energy efficient and work better … quite true, so long as you don’t mind replacing them many times over the life of the house. 3) Most replacements won’t match architecture or have some other aspect that’s “good enough,” yet wrong.
Nice video and very instructive. I was going to get replacement windows for the original upstairs attic windows on a Cape Cod house, but the price was getting objectionable even if I were to install the windows myself. One side of the attic I finished off 30 years ago into a bedroom and also an adjacent bathroom. The unfinished side (no walls, studs, etc, just bare roof joist and insulation exposed, I am going to make into a finished room for music. I for the first time today thought of fixing the old original 69 year old wood double hung windows, rather then buy replacements. There are mostly loose and need to be painted also. There's a little pitting on the sills (I think it is called the sill at the bottom on the lower window which is at a slight angle for rain water to drain off). I don't think that there is any rot just pitting. One lower window has a 1.5 inch hole in it (no cracks just the hole) which I currently have clear packing tape over the hole. Any advice would be very welcome. Thanks. Philip
Thanks for the compliments, yes I would always attempt to repair before replacing, it’s always worth a try. Take your time and be gentle, you will love it more in the end.
@@WorkshopHustle Thanks for the reply. I have storm windows installed on these windows that I installed many years ago (that screw to the outer window frame), however is there a way to make these older windows for a higher energy rating. Also, being as I am going to use this room for mixing music (as in a recording studio type mixing) is there a way to make them a little more sound proof too that you know of.....Thanks again for your reply.
And if you don't want to do all of this? That's there we come in! We have whole casements, double-hung, sash rebuild kits, and hardware - and all cheaper than the big boys! You don't always have to replace your windows, repair instead!
That depends on the end goal. I work on a lot of nationally registered restoration projects, so our goal is to keep the property in shape for the next 50 years and future generations to enjoy it. If it is a personal property with no sentimental value, sure, updating and upgrading to new double pane insulated windows may make more sense.
New windows come with new sealing. Old windows can receive new sealing, also. What really helps old windows compete is storm windows. If you don’t want storm windows, replacement glass is available from speciality suppliers that blocks heat transfer. And there won’t be a single seller of modern windows that’ll tell you that. :)
Old paint on the “working parts” of a wood window (jambs/stiles/sills/sash facings) seem to be a major reliability problem over time, either with sticking or peeling. Let’s say I stain the interior (room) of the sash with whatever stain I want, and paint external sashes with whatever protective paint I like … what do you recommend the inside bits get treated with?
Use linseed oil on the inside of the sash channels and other moving areas. You are correct that paint will gum up the works. These were not designed to have paint applied in these areas.
I seen somewhere it's cheaper to restore than to replace, is this true? Secondly approximately what's the going rate to restore. My house was built in 1870 but windows ain't as bad as that one.
Roughly price out the basic materials he used here, and then get a quote for just one window. There’s no version of this where replacing saves you money, and that includes “energy savings” given that there are simple things any homeowner can do to help seal wood windows. And more sealing can come from storm windows installed.
I did a few months of glazing work when I was going to school in a coastal town, & my favorite part was always cleaning & reglazing old windows. The hurricane strap as a custom scraper is such a good idea!
Are you going to put out the detailed glazing video ? I read the comment below from Elizabeth K . This video is great. Maybe you could include actual time spent on each pane . I have been advised to use primer on the glass under glazing extending beyond the glazing,,, to fully seal the glazing with paint ?. Thanks
I have a large window restoration coming up starting Mid July. My work covers a wide variety of projects so I just haven’t had a chance to dive into it again. I will be sure to put one out. Thanks!
Hey Julie, if you can’t find what you are looking for by doing some local Google searches for window restoration, reaching out to family and friends on Facebook sometimes helps. There may be local carpenter groups also to inquire within. Hope this starts you in the right direction.
I can strip 4-5 sashes in a day, repairs depend on the amount of damage. And then reglaze 4-5 in a day as well. Its time consuming for sure, but the historic value is worth it.
Not trying to be negative, but those sash bottoms needed to be disassembled and replaced. I understand you need to promote the sponsor's stuff, but this is not the best way to do this and you can tell where the repairs are. Also completely epoxy coating the whole piece of wood means the wood can't breathe. Any moisture and rot in the wood will continue to eat away at the wood and the window will fail. These frames CAN be disassembled and are in fact designed to be. Thanks for doing the video though.
Be careful with using a heat gun, I restored one of my windows a few years ago, the heat gun cracked a few panes. It wasn't cold in the room, but my heat gun temp couldn't be adjusted so the temperature change was probably still too high...
That looked panestaking.
Man that was such a good informative video. I couldn’t stop watching and want more of this process. Soo good!!!
Thanks man!
You are a masterful window restorer and give excellent clear explanations. I would like to see a detailed glazing video. The glazing skill set. The mindset. Tools etc. That measured scraper you made to fit perfectly was awesome.
Sometimes old window panes break from the heat shock of the heat gun or torch. You can try to minimize the risk by putting wooden boards on top of the panes when heating, right next to the putty.
Ya, I cracked a few when I did my porch years ago. I’ll use this tip next time! Thank you 😊
$10,000 a frame sound fair...
Local code for lead?
Land fill?
Great video, great editing, chill music, perfect product recommendations - Nicely done. Having started my craftsman journey in boat service and repairs I am constantly amazed how few people have any awareness of the products and solutions readily available in marine applications. Nearly every product you can find at big box hardware stores, automotive supply, and rv/trailer supply are very weak, temporary, finnicky, and fail for countless reasons. When you're looking for paint, adhesives, fasteners, hardware, etc that should be as permanent as possible - go directly to the marine supply store. It'll cost extra but you'll never need to revisit the repair... Unless you put your house in the ocean and bake it in UV light, ha
I would definitely like to see more on glazing. We have a bunch of windows to restore this year.
Great info but if the sash paint is older than 1978 it's best to assume it has lead based paint. Therefore you want to wear a respirator rated for lead and asbestos (pink filte)r as well as working coveralls and gloves and disposable booties that you'd leave in the work area and not track into your home. also only use a HEPA vacuums or HEPA filters Airborne particles can stay suspended in the air for quite a long time if there's not good ventilation. To reduce airborne dust particles you can also use a cream-based paint stripper that will lift gently the manyi layers of toxic and non-toxic paint.
That's great and all. But proper disposal of lead paint chips is.... throw it in your residential trash can. I asked Georgia state EPA duty officer "why!?".... he said "lead level in household paint is low".
@@joey-mp3qc Sorry low is not accurate enough. It's my understanding that any amount between 25 and 80 micrograms per deciliter can cause serious health problems in an individual and that is so tiny an amount that you may not be able to discern it visually.
@@paulsmith5035 Only for small children, really. I just removed 10 lead painted windows with little precautions and had no issues. And my contractor who specializes in restoring old homes shrugged and said "Most home have it, no need to panic working around it".
Believe me,the older I get the less I pretend to comprehend the Supreme Omniscience who governs His/Her worlds.But to one who chewed on a thick lead base paint crib rail, played with mercury , and spent 4 years inside a decommissioned Navy ship,( at times in force 9 seas), this conversation makes me feel incredibly grateful to be a very much alive artist and gym rat 😁
@jimmyross4352 Thank you for stating the obivous.
I’d love to see a detailed glazing video.
I too would love to see it. I’m not sure if one has been made yet, after going through the comments I’m going to take a look.
Me too’ I have 90year old home and many of the windows need to be repaired
Impressive! I would have never thought those windows had any hope of restoration.
Me as well, thanks!
Great video! What do you close the window up with while you are doing the restoration?
Hey Amber, I boarded it up with plywood, with the inside sealed with visqueen taped around the window.
Thank you for linking everything you used, that was very helpful! What brand of paint do you recommend for the finishing coat? Thanks. By the way, another video on your glazing tricks would be fantastic!
Take your 1 inch putty knife and use a whet stone and work a nice flat edge in and smooth the two sides it just makes everything smoother.
Great info. I’d like to see detailed glazing video.
Thanks Elizabeth, I have another restoration I will be doing in the next few months and will be sure to film the glazing part in more detail.
Pretty cool. I would have done another pass with wood repair after the first prime because you can see the imperfections better
Very impressive, and encouraging to witness a craftsman after encountering folks who dont know of youre value. I'm curious though, Is this just one layer of glass? If so, where do you live that double panne windows are not being employed ? And, I've been told to use Bondo to replace some rot on the bottom of one of my 16 wooden windows.Some people in my subdivision have paid a lot to have their wooden double pane windows replaced with vlnal ones. Any coments would be apreciated.
Agreed, I would have been replacing pieces or rebuilding the frames from scratch.
Thanks for showing the process and product.
I didn't see what "moving blanket" brand you used...
I would love to see a more detailed video of glazing please.
Most detailed video I've seen so far! Great job!
Wouldn't a heat gun be dangerous with that lead paint? Causing a deadly gas? Vaporize the lead?
One pump to one pump? Ingenious!!!!!!!!!
Thank You for the time lapse! Very Helpfull! I will be referring back to this one!! And seeing all your other projects!
Beutiful! Thank you for sharing!
you make glazing look so easy! my lines are always wonky XD
i have to thank my grandmother for making me do this as a kid
Excellent video. I just need more detail.
Gods work, upvc is an abomination.
That paint is probably lead, so you won't want to use a heatgun. It'll vaporize the lead, which can render the respirator useless.
Thank you for a very useful and inspiring (and emboldening) video! A couple questions: 1) Did you document how to remove the sashes, whether the perimeter framing needed repair and how you did that? 2) I did notice in quick glimpses that some of your pieces of the frame were in very bad shape, basically rotted away. Did you use the FixWood to rebuild those, or did you have to replace some of the wood members? 3) Did you consider replacing the single pane windows with dual panes? Surely the weight would be greater, but you could also increase the weight on the counterweights? Thanks!
Thanks Jeffrey, 1. I did not document the removal process. Typically in these wood windows, there is an outer trim piece that needs removed which frees up the bottom sash. Then the top sash is still behind a middle trim piece. Usually these can be difficult to get out depending on the amount of nails, caulk, and paint that has been built up. In some cases I just make new middle pieces for reinstall. The frames were in good shape but the exterior windowsill did need replaced. 2. Some of the sashes were in bad shape and I did replace the bottom piece. 3. These were to be brought back to as original as possible so keeping the original glass was necessary. It may be difficult to replace with a dual panel since the rabbet is usually not more than 1/2 to 5/8 deep. These also did not have ropes or weights, but reinstalled with the top sash sealed in place and the bottom sash moveable. Thanks for your questions!
@@WorkshopHustle Thank you for the details. I've found other videos that helped me with dismantling the sash windows. We have a LOT of them, and maybe 25 years ago I had a craftsman service them all, so they're in pretty good shape, nicely serviceable by a tinkerer like me. The exterior surfaces are weather-worn, but the wood still looks good. House is 96 years old! Thanks again!
If you plan on doing a lot of paint removal, it's worthwhile to invest in an infrared tool. It works so much better than a heat gun and its a lot safer
Also, high quality auto body filler (aka high quality Bondo) is a great alternative to wood filler epoxy and its considered "acceptable" in the historical preservation & restoration community
Your information is terrific, but the loud music prevents hearing. what a shame! If you like many " likes" , please eliminate the music.
I don't know where you are located but in the US, most guys would try to sell home owners with low-e argon glass instead of restoring any windows.
Great video. Hi m8, any tips on how to get a straighter putty line that has previosly paintented gloss enamel on the window, i am giving it a light sand to recoat with oil enamel again, but on some section would like to straighten up the putty edge that has chipped away but do not want to replace putty, maybe a filler?
Cheers.
Boy do I NOT need that nerve-wracking music when someone is explaining how to restore windows.
My wood looks extremely dried out but otherwise good condition. Should I oil treat the wood or just apply a preserve?
They still use your footage on their website but the Total Boat coupon code says "expired".
Thanks for letting me know! I pulled it from the description for now until I can see if they will renew it.
Hi there do you do this commercially? I would pay for you to help me restore my windows.
Hey, I do these locally for historic buildings usually once or twice a year. I learned a lot about glazing by watching Earth+Flax Studio’s videos. They break it down much slower than I did. There is a lot of technique you can learn on TH-cam. Thanks for watching!
Great video!
Question
In your opinion is it cheaper to buy windows that have the Same design or just to restore them.
That is hard to gauge but I would say that for a 6 pane window like this, if you were to replace with new wood windows in the same period style it may be about the same cost. I am in the historic restoration industry, which has a lot of rules and red tape, usually meaning we try to restore before having to replace. Most of the windows I restore are very unique in shape or glass and would be much more expensive to replace with new.
It's generally cheaper to buy instead. The amount of time it takes for e. g. a company to restore X amount of windows is larger then making from scratch.
It’s more expensive to replace for several reasons: 1) Replacements generally aren’t available, not even in “common” sizes. Wood windows are no longer mainstream product. Go to Home Depot or Lowe’s if unsure about that. 2) As with #1, talk to any window company and I’m about 4 seconds they’ll go on and on about how modern windows are energy efficient and work better … quite true, so long as you don’t mind replacing them many times over the life of the house. 3) Most replacements won’t match architecture or have some other aspect that’s “good enough,” yet wrong.
good video. thank you for the info. however, if you remove the loud the music, you would get many more " likes"
Nice video. Id be interested in seeing more of the process.
Nice video and very instructive. I was going to get replacement windows for the original upstairs attic windows on a Cape Cod house, but the price was getting objectionable even if I were to install the windows myself. One side of the attic I finished off 30 years ago into a bedroom and also an adjacent bathroom. The unfinished side (no walls, studs, etc, just bare roof joist and insulation exposed, I am going to make into a finished room for music.
I for the first time today thought of fixing the old original 69 year old wood double hung windows, rather then buy replacements. There are mostly loose and need to be painted also. There's a little pitting on the sills (I think it is called the sill at the bottom on the lower window which is at a slight angle for rain water to drain off). I don't think that there is any rot just pitting. One lower window has a 1.5 inch hole in it (no cracks just the hole) which I currently have clear packing tape over the hole. Any advice would be very welcome. Thanks.
Philip
Thanks for the compliments, yes I would always attempt to repair before replacing, it’s always worth a try. Take your time and be gentle, you will love it more in the end.
@@WorkshopHustle Thanks for the reply. I have storm windows installed on these windows that I installed many years ago (that screw to the outer window frame), however is there a way to make these older windows for a higher energy rating. Also, being as I am going to use this room for mixing music (as in a recording studio type mixing) is there a way to make them a little more sound proof too that you know of.....Thanks again for your reply.
And if you don't want to do all of this? That's there we come in! We have whole casements, double-hung, sash rebuild kits, and hardware - and all cheaper than the big boys! You don't always have to replace your windows, repair instead!
Wouldn't it be more efficient to just replace them with new ones?
That depends on the end goal. I work on a lot of nationally registered restoration projects, so our goal is to keep the property in shape for the next 50 years and future generations to enjoy it. If it is a personal property with no sentimental value, sure, updating and upgrading to new double pane insulated windows may make more sense.
New windows come with new sealing. Old windows can receive new sealing, also. What really helps old windows compete is storm windows.
If you don’t want storm windows, replacement glass is available from speciality suppliers that blocks heat transfer.
And there won’t be a single seller of modern windows that’ll tell you that. :)
Old paint on the “working parts” of a wood window (jambs/stiles/sills/sash facings) seem to be a major reliability problem over time, either with sticking or peeling.
Let’s say I stain the interior (room) of the sash with whatever stain I want, and paint external sashes with whatever protective paint I like … what do you recommend the inside bits get treated with?
Use linseed oil on the inside of the sash channels and other moving areas. You are correct that paint will gum up the works. These were not designed to have paint applied in these areas.
I seen somewhere it's cheaper to restore than to replace, is this true? Secondly approximately what's the going rate to restore. My house was built in 1870 but windows ain't as bad as that one.
Roughly price out the basic materials he used here, and then get a quote for just one window.
There’s no version of this where replacing saves you money, and that includes “energy savings” given that there are simple things any homeowner can do to help seal wood windows. And more sealing can come from storm windows installed.
I did a few months of glazing work when I was going to school in a coastal town, & my favorite part was always cleaning & reglazing old windows.
The hurricane strap as a custom scraper is such a good idea!
Are you going to put out the detailed glazing video ? I read the comment below from Elizabeth K . This video is great. Maybe you could include actual time spent on each pane . I have been advised to use primer on the glass under glazing extending beyond the glazing,,, to fully seal the glazing with paint ?. Thanks
I have a large window restoration coming up starting Mid July. My work covers a wide variety of projects so I just haven’t had a chance to dive into it again. I will be sure to put one out. Thanks!
How long did it take for one window?
Those look amazing!
Is amazing!
May Lord Jesus Christ, YAUSHUA BLESS YOU!!
Amazing work
So good !!! Thank you...
Superb
How would I go about finding a craftsman to refinish my old windows (Central Coast of California)?
Hey Julie, if you can’t find what you are looking for by doing some local Google searches for window restoration, reaching out to family and friends on Facebook sometimes helps. There may be local carpenter groups also to inquire within. Hope this starts you in the right direction.
@@WorkshopHustle Thank you!!
Love it
how would estimate each window took to complete?
I can strip 4-5 sashes in a day, repairs depend on the amount of damage. And then reglaze 4-5 in a day as well. Its time consuming for sure, but the historic value is worth it.
How much does a window like that cost to do
As much as you can get .
Bravo for the profil scraper .
why is there electronic dance music loudly on top of your voice over... like bro we are fixing windows this ain't the club
Not trying to be negative, but those sash bottoms needed to be disassembled and replaced. I understand you need to promote the sponsor's stuff, but this is not the best way to do this and you can tell where the repairs are. Also completely epoxy coating the whole piece of wood means the wood can't breathe. Any moisture and rot in the wood will continue to eat away at the wood and the window will fail. These frames CAN be disassembled and are in fact designed to be. Thanks for doing the video though.
impressive work but if I was the owner I would just get new windows
Excellent!