This is going to save me so much time. I have a 100 year old house with 7 french doors, each having 15 panes. I have been putting off painting them for years because I didn't want to kill myself trying to do it. Now I can!! Yippee! Thank you!
Great video thanks. I was wondering on large windows have you ever painted the edge with liquid mask, then filled the centre with std masking film taped over the inner edge of the liquid mask ?
I have, just make sure the tape sticks to the Liquid Mask. I wound up using masking tape, but make sure you don't put the masking tape on any glass (tape to the Liquid Mask itself) as it may be hard to remove from the glass especially if exposed to sunlight. I used masking tape as I found that using safe release tape/blue cloth did not adhere well to the Liquid Mask. Thanks!
Awesome product and it doesn't matter if you paint over some of the wood. It acts like a primer too, and won't peel off the wood after being painted like it does from the smooth glass.
The product is meant to act like a primer on wood, painted surfaces. In my experience, I have never had paint failure where the Liquid Mask was used on painted or wood surfaces.
Thinking about using this on my over my living room windows for privacy. Was going to put colored stick and peel but the brushed effect looks so elegant. I wonder how long it will last / if months later it causes problems removing.
I've had it on interior windows for as long as 3 months. We actually applied it early in the process for a bit of privacy. It dries clear and if you apply it thick enough, it helps a bit; makes everything look wavey.
Thank you! I had no idea there is a product like this. I have put off DIY because of the time-consuming taping. I want to paint/stain my already stained trim around my windows, doors; any suggestions please?
The quick answer is that it would be much easier to paint over the existing stained trim. To do so, you would need to sand down the existing trim (I am assuming there is a clear coat of finish over the stain) to give the new coat of paint something to "bite" into. Apply a primer, then 2 coats of finish paint. If the existing stained trim is just stained with no clear coat, keep in mind there is a chance when you apply the new paint, the stain will bleed through the new paint, and if that were the case, you would need to use a stain-blocking primer (In this scenario, I would recommend an oil-based stain-blocking primer) Here are the problems with trying to re-stain the trim: The main one is that there is a very good chance the existing stained trim has a clear coat over the stain. That clear coat would have to be COMPLETELY removed, or the new stain would not be able to penetrate into the wood. Now if you went this route, once the clear coat is completely removed, the stain below may look blotchy from the clear coat removal process. To solve the blotchy issues, you could either try to sand/strip it so it looks more even, or completely remove the stain (the latter being the preferred option). This is a lot of work. Keep in mind If you decided not to remove all of the stain, you could only apply a new stain color that is the same as the existing color, or darker. You could not apply a lighter stain over a darker stain as you will never see it. Also, if you do not remove ALL of the stain, there is a good chance when you re-stain, the new stain will look blotchy. If you decide to re-stain, my recommendation is to remove everything. Once removed, apply the stain (I recommend an oil-based stain as its easier than a water-based to use). Let dry at least 24 hours, then apply 2 or 3 coats of a non-yellowing, interior, water-based clear coat. Please let me know if you have any more questions, Thanks!
@@DaveMartin Thank you! I think I will try the gel stain. I just used it on a new untreated door and I feel good about trying it. Thank you for your reply.
Can you leave it on for multiple coats? I was gonna prime and paint since I’m painting stained wood. I was going to spray the windows. Would it be ok to use this liquid mask around the edge and then tape paper or plastic to it to cover the middle?
Yes, you can leave it on for the primer and the finish coats; no need to remove until done. You could use the Liquid Mask around the edge and tape the middle. A couple of things though: if you tape to the liquid mask, I would test how strong the bond is between the tape and the Liquid Mask. If you are going to spray and the tape bond is not good enough, the tape will simply blow off. My guess is masking tape will work best in this scenario. What I would do in this scenario however, is tape up first. Use a medium adhesion tape (don't use "Original" Blue Scotch Tape or masking tape directly on the glass...use Scotch's Edge Lock (2093) or something similar). Mask to the exposed glass area, then when you apply the Liquid Mask make sure you seal the edge of the tape. I'm going to guess that most painting contractors would read this and just say, " simply tape up the whole thing, it will be faster." I never do both, I do one or the other. Smaller windows, Liquid Mask; large windows, tape up. Thanks!
I already painted one wood sliding door- masking with tape masking and of course the paint bled under the tape in some spots. For these doors there's the glass and the rubber seal- could I use this on the rubber as well as the glass? Then just run an exacto behind the rubber gasket and then peel from the glass as you demo above?
I would actually recommend cutting the rubber seal first and make sure the glass is clean before applying the Liquid Mask. The issue you will have if you don't cut the seal first is that when you do cut it after painting it, the edge of the seal that you have cut will show. Does that make sense? So ultimately you will have an edge of seal that has not been painted and if it's a color that is different from your trim, it will really stick out. Please let me know if this makes sense. Thanks!
Hello. Thanks for the video. I am not good at painting. I have an exterior door. It has a decorative arch. If I overlap mask on the door... Will I have a problem? It says interior use only.
Sorry, I’m confused by the question, are you saying the Liquid Mask says it’s interior only? I’ve never run across a liquid mask product that is interior only.
John Mansfield I have never heard of this product, but after a quick search, if you use this product it will peel off ANY surface you apply it to. So if you apply it to the door and the glass, once dry, this liquid mask will come off the door and the glass...the product I’m suggesting will not permanently adhere to glass, but will permanently adhere to wood and painted surfaces. If you use the Walther, only apply it to the glass; I’m guessing this will be problematic so I’m not sure how well it will work. And since it’s interior only, this might not be the right product to use. Where are you located?
Yes, I use this professionally. You can use it on smooth tempered glass. You really want to stay away from using it on stained glass, frosted glass, any kind of plastic and textured glass.
Hi, I missed removing some of the masking and now I can't seem to remove it. I tried with a new razor blade and I also tried nail polish remover and a rubber eraser. Nothing has worked. Help!
Try applying some more of the Liquid Mask over the areas your having trouble with. Test a small section, let it dry, the try removing it again (use the razor blade to get under an edge and try peeling it with your hand first, use a clean razor as a last resort). It’s important that the Liquid Mask is not applied too thin or it will be hard to remove, so make sure you put it on kind of thick. If the problem is that you didn’t apply the Liquid Mask to the glass everywhere needed, that means the paint is on the glass; that, however, should not be real difficult to remove. Also, I would try Goof Off and not nail polish remover. If this doesn’t work, please let me know.
Hey Dave...I have a question for you. Consider this scenario: the existing paint is oil based and probably 20 years old, but it's in good condition (no chipping). I plan to a) sand with a 150 grit, followed by a 220 grit b) spray with primer c) spray with 2 coats of latex. If I spray liquid masking on the windows, should I skip the spray primer on the windows? Great video by the way...I've used liquid masking before and I'm always surprised how few people know that the products exist.
As long as you do the sanding, yes, it works great as a primer. I've been in the business for a long time and I am also surprised how many people are unaware of the product ;-)
So if you happen to get some on the wood while putting it do you get off or leave it on? If you leave it on how does it affect the adhession of the paint?
We have an old glass house and it's just the window connected to a frame. So lots of cold air is coming in. Is there a substance you can use (caulk) that is clear that seals the area between the wood frame and the window.
You could simply use clear caulk. If you use a 100% silicone clear caulk, you would not be able to paint the caulk, but it would hold up better than say Dap's clear caulk. I should note that using Silicone is a little more complicated than using an Acrylic/Silicone hybrid. If you are looking for ease of use, use the hybrid (like Dap's Alex Plus Clear Caulk) I would recommend using tape to help control the amount of caulk that winds up on the glass; take some safe release tape and apply it onto the glass about an 1/8 from your window frames. Caulk the area, then use your finger to make the caulk smooth. Make sure you pull the tape as soon as you are done caulking, do not allow the caulk to dry before pulling the tape.
Hi, if you have newer wood windows with a silicone bead between the glass and wood, would you still recommend this product? The cutting around the edge I think might be a bit more difficult. Thanks
So, if you 'slop' masking material onto some of the surface you are going to paint, it will prevent the paint from sticking? Right? Do you have to 'trim' the masking material off of the surfaces that you WANT paint on?
The Liquid Mask will stick permanently to any painted or bare wood surface. Said surfaces should be sanded lightly as needed (if it's really smooth or shiny) so the Liquid Mask will adhere properly.
I’m wandering about this too! Surly you have to trim the liquid mask from where you’ve hit the wood with the liquid mask ? If this makes sense? Or would you have to cut in carefully with the liquid mask so you don’t get it on what you are painting ? If so this would be time consuming? I’m not being petty or trying to pick faults I’d like to use this product
What happens to the masking film if a painter applies cover stain or bin as a primer? Does it eat through the film? Thanks in advance for your response.
@@DaveMartin I have an home that all trim is done is really expensive oil based paint. The painter was suppose to use oil based primer before repainting with non oil based paint. He is using this Masking on all windows but how will this effect the regular paint that he then paints over this masking. Will it start peeling off and not adhere to the surface? I am concerned since my painter using it for this first time in my home with huge windows. My email is kimmystone33@gmail.com to respond. Please help, I am really concerned we will have a blotching job.
Are you talking about the green lacquer tape, or the Frog Tape? The green lacquer tape is cheaper, but you need to be careful with it because it will stick too hard to the surface and could, over time, be hard to pull. Unfortunately, purchasing more expensive materials is ideal in decreasing issues down the road. I get that many of you are on a budget and so that becomes problematic. Thanks for the feedback.
Great video. Thanks. When the product warns about old glass, what is the concern? I have an old (probably 75 years) door with 15 panes of glass and two more like it. This would really help. Do I need to worry since the glass is old? Not decorative like in your video. Just old and maybe pitted or a little scratched.
With older glass you run a risk of scraping the glass. Since the Liquid Mask may not peel off easily, you will need to use a razor blade to get it off; old glass has a tendency to be "uneven" or not completely smooth, so when you go to scrape it off with a razor, you run a risk of scratching the glass. If you feel comfortable moving forward, what I would recommend is applying two coats of the Liquid Mask in this scenario. If it's thicker, it has a tendency to come off easier, just be careful when you are starting the lifting process.
So you paint the masking carefully round the glass, making sure you don’t get it on the frame which enables you then to paint the frame carefully in the usual manner finishing each section by laying off the new paint, then to carefully cut found the frame and carefully strip off the masking, then to go over the glass with the scraper to remove any detritus ........ er, am I missing something?
The Liquid Mask will not permanently stick to the glass, but it will permanently stick to any bare wood or painted surface; you do not have to worry about getting the Liquid Mask on the trim. Once dry, you can paint your trim color and get it on the Liquid Mask. You do not have to carefully cut in with the Liquid Mask, then carefully cut in with the trim paint; if that were the case, there would be no reason for using this product. The rest of your comment is correct. Thanks!
Sorry to hear about that. I, unfortunately, would recommend applying another coat of the Liquid Mask over the existing thin layer of Liquid Mask. Best to not get any on your new paint, so cut it in the best you can. It should stick to the old thinner layer, then once dried, peel off more easily. Also, probably best to test in a small area just to see if it works. Other than that, scraping, but that will take forever. Let me know if you try my suggestion and if it is helpful. Thanks!
Could I brush this on an arch window and then tape plastic on top of the liquid mask after it dries to completely mask the window? Seems much easier to paint this on the arch than to mask with tape, but I want to spray the window.
You could, but the tape may not stick well to the Liquid Mask. I would recommend tape/plastic up first, bringing the tape out an inch or so from the trim, then apply the liquid mask on the glass and the edge of the tape. I have never done this before, so you might want to test it, but I cannot imagine a problem. Make sure you use a low adhesion, super safe release tape on the glass (Scotch's Delicate Surface Edge Lock is my favorite). Don't worry about getting the Liquid Mask on the wood /trim (see below). Since you are spraying you could also spray the Liquid Mask on all of the glass. It will adhere permanently to any wood or painted surface, so you don't need to worry about that (make sure those surfaces have been sanded). Your main issue would be the type of sprayer you are using; an airless should push the product just fine, but I don't know if an HVLP has the pressure. You may need to thin it down with water and adjust accordingly.
Titan 17002 2-Piece Multi-Purpose and Mini Razor Scraper Set www.amazon.com/Titan-17002-Multi-Purpose-Razor-Scraper/dp/B00132H4OE/ref=sr_1_1?crid=18FKJ3G6Y9YGJ&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.AgmXRC4l-h0UIAeY6p9obdtN8AaPyRYihNWzSPWMQG46-PB36xeNrxfwe4WgP35_SRQmC-muMMVA_-VAZ_Tzko2Ypc6kAAP-kHH21A57cJSTCp9eWhEsPCoDKEmOmOGFLBkEmn09L9lj1LLF_QzYN13LiNH08HB-3t2ArIDBAN4LszRIhtENmzUWS_oiS8PV0LX5DsE3b8A1vgsV3uNK8c4LWRxNpnOavnKM1n1pxiS7hFMsyxPI9Qrogo84wSDwfQW-3DRMUXrcLtvJI89qrq437yRevqQS8JaByM9jSJM.qeEFlV5VNNxSXw1k5GkLdnVP63lTlaoqtUOOZjuAOuY&dib_tag=se&keywords=titan%2Bscraper&qid=1728113102&sprefix=titan%2Bscraper%2Btool%2Caps%2C220&sr=8-1&th=1
I've never sprayed it with an HVLP, but my guess is that it will need to be thinned quite a bit as the HVLP may not have the pressure to atomize the product properly.
I have used it on exterior windows with no issues. Things to keep in mind: Make sure the windows are clean before you apply the Liquid Mask; if they are dirty and you apply this product over the dirty glass, it may be hard to remove. I also do not recommend removing the Liquid Mask in direct sunlight; it seems to come off easier in the shade and at a bit of a lower temperature. Remember the thicker you put in on, the easier (yes, easier) it will be to remove. Thanks!
It really depends on temperature and humidity. As little as an hour or maybe as long as 4-5 hours (I used it outside in the middle of November (not a great idea) and it took about a day to dry).
It depends on the temperature and humidity; in my experience, it take about an hour or two to dry. You'll know it's completely dry when it's completely clear.
With 50 bucks of liquid mask you can do hundreds of windows blue frog tape is 22 bucks a 3 p k and it’s time consuming. It’s best for large spray jobs.
I usually apply one thicker coat, but you can do it either way; in my experience doing two coats has a tendency to come off the window/glass a bit easier when you are all done because it's thicker.
I've painted thousands of windows and paint will remove from windows using a razor blade just as easy as without this product. Paint the grids then simply score the paint next to the grid (just like in the video) and then run your "sharp" blade (also pointed out in the video) along the grid and it will come off. It will take seconds longer but you get the same results less the time of applying the product and the extra cost of the product. What was conveniently "not" pointed out in the video was do not apply the product to the painted surface as was done in the video. You must take time to be neat and avoid doing so or the paint will not properly adhere to the painted area just as it does not adhere to the glass which is the whole purpose of the product, "prevent paint from adhering". This will further increase your time spent.
If you need to paint on to the glass to create a 1/16” line, I would recommend using tape instead of the Liquid Mask. It will be far easier. I would use a low adhesion tape like 3M’s Delicate Surface Tape.
Or just put a filling knife/blade (or thin wallpaper trimmer next to the edge of the beading and score along the knife. This will create the line couple of mm on to the glass.
If it is cold, say around 40 degrees for a long time, yes, it will take a while to cure or may not cure completely until it's warmer; best to use when it is warm (around 50 degrees). The flaking problem usually occurs if the Liquid Mask is applied to thin. Another interesting thing is that if you try to remove the Liquid Mask when it is really warm and especially in direct sunlight, it is much harder to remove. In this scenario, best to wait until the sun is not shining directly on it, or it cools down, then it will come off as advertised. Thanks for the comment!
@@DaveMartin no it's not I do it all the time, it takes about 5 seconds. easier to do if the paint is fresh. Ive only been painting for the last 30 years so what would I know?
@@magicmike6961 I had a painting business in Florida for 10 years and now renovate houses. Sorry Mr. magic, liquid mask is A LOT EASIER to remove from windows than painting onto the windows and then removing the excess. Because, once you get the liquid mask started, it comes off in, pretty much, one single sheet. Removing over-brushed paint from a window can be done, but you'll be spending more time going around the whole window with a scraper blade after you score the glass along the edges. Pretending they're the same is ludacris. Give the stuff a try and you'll never go back to the old way.
@@darknights696 Personally, if you decided to use tape, which I would recommend a low adhesion tape, the costs for the rolls of tape vs. the Liquid Mask is comparable. I also think in the end, it is faster and easier to use. I recommend it highly. Good Luck!
I hear people all the time saying that real painters don't use tape or real painters can do x or y. But this is a way to get a cleaner edge, less cost, or do it faster. That's good business
Clear glass has a texture to it on a microscopic level. When you run your razor over it (even a new one) you are knocking that texture off and scratching the glass with it. When the light shines through it, people will see and complain.
@@jamesmacdonald5881 as a person that represents Marvin and Andersen, which both use Cardinal Glass, I can with 100% certainty tell you that you are incorrect. Clean the dust off your glasses and look closer at what you are doing to the glass.
Vaseline? Really? Liquid mask can be applied over painted surfaces and bare wood and will dry like a primer over those surfaces; it will not permanently adhere to glass. Vaseline, if you get it on the wood, will not stick. As for expense, I simply adjust my materials cost; in the scheme of things it's not that much more than tape (decent tape, I don't use cheap tape for a lot of reasons). Thanks for the comment!
Seems like a waste of time to me. You can just paint on the smooth glass and scrap it off with a razor. You’re already having the scrape the excess thin mask and peel anyway. Just seems like an unnecessary expense and extra step.
If you use an inexpensive vinyl acrylic paint, I agree, it will scrape off easily. However, if you use a higher quality 100% acrylic paint, which adheres much better, then the paint will be harder to scrape off and will be more time consuming to remove. In my experience, I believe the time spent purchasing and applying the liquid mask is worth it.
This is going to save me so much time. I have a 100 year old house with 7 french doors, each having 15 panes. I have been putting off painting them for years because I didn't want to kill myself trying to do it. Now I can!! Yippee! Thank you!
BRUHH!! This is why I watch a dozen or so TH-cam videos before every DIY project. 😂 I would have never known this existed. TY.
Great video thanks. I was wondering on large windows have you ever painted the edge with liquid mask, then filled the centre with std masking film taped over the inner edge of the liquid mask ?
I have, just make sure the tape sticks to the Liquid Mask. I wound up using masking tape, but make sure you don't put the masking tape on any glass (tape to the Liquid Mask itself) as it may be hard to remove from the glass especially if exposed to sunlight.
I used masking tape as I found that using safe release tape/blue cloth did not adhere well to the Liquid Mask.
Thanks!
Awesome product and it doesn't matter if you paint over some of the wood. It acts like a primer too, and won't peel off the wood after being painted like it does from the smooth glass.
Are you sure about that
@@mtuguti same thing i was thinking, now u have it on the wood.the masking type comes off wood & now u have a lousy paint job on the framing
Wondering if the liquid mask remnants under the paint hold up over time, or whether it starts to peel off.
The product is meant to act like a primer on wood, painted surfaces. In my experience, I have never had paint failure where the Liquid Mask was used on painted or wood surfaces.
@@DaveMartinwhat about painting a panes mirror where frame is metal?
Thinking about using this on my over my living room windows for privacy. Was going to put colored stick and peel but the brushed effect looks so elegant. I wonder how long it will last / if months later it causes problems removing.
I've had it on interior windows for as long as 3 months. We actually applied it early in the process for a bit of privacy. It dries clear and if you apply it thick enough, it helps a bit; makes everything look wavey.
Very good product. Can I use this for hinges? Thanks.
No, the liquid mask will dry like a primer over hinges
Thank you! I had no idea there is a product like this. I have put off DIY because of the time-consuming taping. I want to paint/stain my already stained trim around my windows, doors; any suggestions please?
The quick answer is that it would be much easier to paint over the existing stained trim. To do so, you would need to sand down the existing trim (I am assuming there is a clear coat of finish over the stain) to give the new coat of paint something to "bite" into. Apply a primer, then 2 coats of finish paint.
If the existing stained trim is just stained with no clear coat, keep in mind there is a chance when you apply the new paint, the stain will bleed through the new paint, and if that were the case, you would need to use a stain-blocking primer (In this scenario, I would recommend an oil-based stain-blocking primer)
Here are the problems with trying to re-stain the trim: The main one is that there is a very good chance the existing stained trim has a clear coat over the stain. That clear coat would have to be COMPLETELY removed, or the new stain would not be able to penetrate into the wood.
Now if you went this route, once the clear coat is completely removed, the stain below may look blotchy from the clear coat removal process. To solve the blotchy issues, you could either try to sand/strip it so it looks more even, or completely remove the stain (the latter being the preferred option). This is a lot of work.
Keep in mind If you decided not to remove all of the stain, you could only apply a new stain color that is the same as the existing color, or darker. You could not apply a lighter stain over a darker stain as you will never see it. Also, if you do not remove ALL of the stain, there is a good chance when you re-stain, the new stain will look blotchy.
If you decide to re-stain, my recommendation is to remove everything. Once removed, apply the stain (I recommend an oil-based stain as its easier than a water-based to use). Let dry at least 24 hours, then apply 2 or 3 coats of a non-yellowing, interior, water-based clear coat.
Please let me know if you have any more questions, Thanks!
@@DaveMartin Thank you! I think I will try the gel stain. I just used it on a new untreated door and I feel good about trying it. Thank you for your reply.
Best video ever.... You saved me so much time.
Glad it helped!
Can you leave it on for multiple coats? I was gonna prime and paint since I’m painting stained wood. I was going to spray the windows. Would it be ok to use this liquid mask around the edge and then tape paper or plastic to it to cover the middle?
Yes, you can leave it on for the primer and the finish coats; no need to remove until done.
You could use the Liquid Mask around the edge and tape the middle. A couple of things though: if you tape to the liquid mask, I would test how strong the bond is between the tape and the Liquid Mask. If you are going to spray and the tape bond is not good enough, the tape will simply blow off. My guess is masking tape will work best in this scenario.
What I would do in this scenario however, is tape up first. Use a medium adhesion tape (don't use "Original" Blue Scotch Tape or masking tape directly on the glass...use Scotch's Edge Lock (2093) or something similar). Mask to the exposed glass area, then when you apply the Liquid Mask make sure you seal the edge of the tape.
I'm going to guess that most painting contractors would read this and just say, " simply tape up the whole thing, it will be faster."
I never do both, I do one or the other. Smaller windows, Liquid Mask; large windows, tape up.
Thanks!
Can I use this on a smoked pane glass mirror with metal frame I want more of an antique white rather than bronze?
Omg found this in the nick of time. Brilliant
Thanks!
I already painted one wood sliding door- masking with tape masking and of course the paint bled under the tape in some spots. For these doors there's the glass and the rubber seal- could I use this on the rubber as well as the glass? Then just run an exacto behind the rubber gasket and then peel from the glass as you demo above?
I would actually recommend cutting the rubber seal first and make sure the glass is clean before applying the Liquid Mask.
The issue you will have if you don't cut the seal first is that when you do cut it after painting it, the edge of the seal that you have cut will show. Does that make sense? So ultimately you will have an edge of seal that has not been painted and if it's a color that is different from your trim, it will really stick out.
Please let me know if this makes sense.
Thanks!
Thinking about painting my aluminum windows.this looks like a stellar alternative to taping!
So how long will the unused product last I wonder. I will need to store it between jobs
If you apply the lid back really secure and keep the product in a cool, dry environment (don't let if freeze), it should last about 6 months.
Can this be use to cover a wall design on drywall or it will peel up the paint design
Do you have a video on if your spraying the trim ?
Hello. Thanks for the video. I am not good at painting. I have an exterior door. It has a decorative arch. If I overlap mask on the door... Will I have a problem? It says interior use only.
Sorry, I’m confused by the question, are you saying the Liquid Mask says it’s interior only? I’ve never run across a liquid mask product that is interior only.
@@DaveMartin Walther Strong interior tape. I assumed that all the liquid masking tapes were essentially the same...
John Mansfield I have never heard of this product, but after a quick search, if you use this product it will peel off ANY surface you apply it to. So if you apply it to the door and the glass, once dry, this liquid mask will come off the door and the glass...the product I’m suggesting will not permanently adhere to glass, but will permanently adhere to wood and painted surfaces. If you use the Walther, only apply it to the glass; I’m guessing this will be problematic so I’m not sure how well it will work. And since it’s interior only, this might not be the right product to use. Where are you located?
@@DaveMartin Dave, I am in the UK. I might just go with normal masking tape. Thanks for the advice and your time.
do you use this professionally? Wonder about tempered glass?? Thanks for video
Yes, I use this professionally. You can use it on smooth tempered glass. You really want to stay away from using it on stained glass, frosted glass, any kind of plastic and textured glass.
Thanks
can this be used when spray painting exterior aluminum window frames and crossbars?
Yes, but I’d recommend cleaning the glass first before applying the Liquid Mask.
Slide it under and simply pull away OMG this is awesome!!!! I'm going to use with with a sprayer will make the windows so fast!!!!! thank you.
Hi, I missed removing some of the masking and now I can't seem to remove it. I tried with a new razor blade and I also tried nail polish remover and a rubber eraser. Nothing has worked. Help!
Try applying some more of the Liquid Mask over the areas your having trouble with. Test a small section, let it dry, the try removing it again (use the razor blade to get under an edge and try peeling it with your hand first, use a clean razor as a last resort). It’s important that the Liquid Mask is not applied too thin or it will be hard to remove, so make sure you put it on kind of thick.
If the problem is that you didn’t apply the Liquid Mask to the glass everywhere needed, that means the paint is on the glass; that, however, should not be real difficult to remove. Also, I would try Goof Off and not nail polish remover.
If this doesn’t work, please let me know.
Hey Dave...I have a question for you. Consider this scenario: the existing paint is oil based and probably 20 years old, but it's in good condition (no chipping). I plan to a) sand with a 150 grit, followed by a 220 grit b) spray with primer c) spray with 2 coats of latex. If I spray liquid masking on the windows, should I skip the spray primer on the windows? Great video by the way...I've used liquid masking before and I'm always surprised how few people know that the products exist.
As long as you do the sanding, yes, it works great as a primer.
I've been in the business for a long time and I am also surprised how many people are unaware of the product ;-)
No it’s not a great primer just don’t skip steps
Does it work on fiberglass? Does it work on multiple coats including a prime coat and two topcoats? Thanks
So if you happen to get some on the wood while putting it do you get off or leave it on? If you leave it on how does it affect the adhession of the paint?
You leave it on; it's meant to act like a primer over painted and wood surfaces. The only surface it will not permanently stick to is glass.
Your voice is calming.
Is that a good thing, or a bad thing ;-)
@@DaveMartin A good thing!
How does this work with an oil base finish like Benjamin Moore Satin Impervo?
It works the same with oil as it does with latex paints.
Nice! Didn’t know there was such a product, thank you so much!
Can I use it if the window was previously painted with an oil paint? Or will the liquid mask just pull off the surface?
What if you unknowingly get any, even a little, of the masking liquid on the panes prior to paint? I assume the paint won't adhere....
The Liquid Mask will adhere to any wood or painted surfaces permanently, it does not matter if you get it on the panes.
We have an old glass house and it's just the window connected to a frame. So lots of cold air is coming in. Is there a substance you can use (caulk) that is clear that seals the area between the wood frame and the window.
You could simply use clear caulk. If you use a 100% silicone clear caulk, you would not be able to paint the caulk, but it would hold up better than say Dap's clear caulk. I should note that using Silicone is a little more complicated than using an Acrylic/Silicone hybrid. If you are looking for ease of use, use the hybrid (like Dap's Alex Plus Clear Caulk)
I would recommend using tape to help control the amount of caulk that winds up on the glass; take some safe release tape and apply it onto the glass about an 1/8 from your window frames. Caulk the area, then use your finger to make the caulk smooth. Make sure you pull the tape as soon as you are done caulking, do not allow the caulk to dry before pulling the tape.
You should re-glaze the windows rather than caulk.
Hi, if you have newer wood windows with a silicone bead between the glass and wood, would you still recommend this product? The cutting around the edge I think might be a bit more difficult. Thanks
Is DAP removable weatherstrip caulk called Seal ‘N Peel the same type stuff?
So, if you 'slop' masking material onto some of the surface you are going to paint, it will prevent the paint from sticking? Right? Do you have to 'trim' the masking material off of the surfaces that you WANT paint on?
The Liquid Mask will stick permanently to any painted or bare wood surface. Said surfaces should be sanded lightly as needed (if it's really smooth or shiny) so the Liquid Mask will adhere properly.
@@DaveMartin Thanks for the reply Dave.
@@lmo1131 No worries, good luck!
I’m wandering about this too! Surly you have to trim the liquid mask from where you’ve hit the wood with the liquid mask ? If this makes sense? Or would you have to cut in carefully with the liquid mask so you don’t get it on what you are painting ? If so this would be time consuming? I’m not being petty or trying to pick faults I’d like to use this product
You’ve changed my life
Thank you for this video! I just bought mine yesterday for painting today!
What happens to the masking film if a painter applies cover stain or bin as a primer? Does it eat through the film? Thanks in advance for your response.
According to their website, Liquid Mask is fine with all oil and water based paints, including primer. I have never had an issue with any paint types.
@@DaveMartin I have an home that all trim is done is really expensive oil based paint. The painter was suppose to use oil based primer before repainting with non oil based paint. He is using this Masking on all windows but how will this effect the regular paint that he then paints over this masking. Will it start peeling off and not adhere to the surface? I am concerned since my painter using it for this first time in my home with huge windows. My email is kimmystone33@gmail.com to respond. Please help, I am really concerned we will have a blotching job.
Can this product be used in regular walls other than windows?
Between brushing it on then scraping off I think taping is quicker. Also, the green tape is cheaper than the blue.
Are you talking about the green lacquer tape, or the Frog Tape? The green lacquer tape is cheaper, but you need to be careful with it because it will stick too hard to the surface and could, over time, be hard to pull.
Unfortunately, purchasing more expensive materials is ideal in decreasing issues down the road. I get that many of you are on a budget and so that becomes problematic.
Thanks for the feedback.
A safer bet might be to use a plastic razor thats used in the motor trade for removing car stickers / decals 👍
Great video. Thanks. When the product warns about old glass, what is the concern? I have an old (probably 75 years) door with 15 panes of glass and two more like it. This would really help. Do I need to worry since the glass is old? Not decorative like in your video. Just old and maybe pitted or a little scratched.
With older glass you run a risk of scraping the glass. Since the Liquid Mask may not peel off easily, you will need to use a razor blade to get it off; old glass has a tendency to be "uneven" or not completely smooth, so when you go to scrape it off with a razor, you run a risk of scratching the glass. If you feel comfortable moving forward, what I would recommend is applying two coats of the Liquid Mask in this scenario. If it's thicker, it has a tendency to come off easier, just be careful when you are starting the lifting process.
Dave Martin The other problem is with 1940s windows you’re supposed to overlap paint on to the window ...1/16, is this possible
I'm pretty sure if the surface has been painted you should scuff the paint in order for the liquid to adhere to it
Hi, can this be used if your varnishing the door which has glass panels.
Yes, it will work for oil base products (varnish included) as well as latex products.
@@DaveMartin Thanks Dave, really appreciate the prompt reply...
@@paps460 My pleasure
What crazy magic! First time seeing this- can't wait!
They think its gold... tape is a lot cheaper and dont take
much longer to do.
100%Same here!🤣🤣The little things that bring happiness…
So you paint the masking carefully round the glass, making sure you don’t get it on the frame which enables you then to paint the frame carefully in the usual manner finishing each section by laying off the new paint, then to carefully cut found the frame and carefully strip off the masking, then to go over the glass with the scraper to remove any detritus ........ er, am I missing something?
Sounds like it...
The Liquid Mask will not permanently stick to the glass, but it will permanently stick to any bare wood or painted surface; you do not have to worry about getting the Liquid Mask on the trim. Once dry, you can paint your trim color and get it on the Liquid Mask.
You do not have to carefully cut in with the Liquid Mask, then carefully cut in with the trim paint; if that were the case, there would be no reason for using this product.
The rest of your comment is correct.
Thanks!
What stops the liquid mask, from peeling off of the painted wood?
The scoring with the utility knife, is my guess.
I have alot of scraping to do. I applied mine too thin. :( any suggestions on an easy peel off in this case? apply heat? anything?
Sorry to hear about that. I, unfortunately, would recommend applying another coat of the Liquid Mask over the existing thin layer of Liquid Mask. Best to not get any on your new paint, so cut it in the best you can. It should stick to the old thinner layer, then once dried, peel off more easily. Also, probably best to test in a small area just to see if it works. Other than that, scraping, but that will take forever.
Let me know if you try my suggestion and if it is helpful.
Thanks!
Could I brush this on an arch window and then tape plastic on top of the liquid mask after it dries to completely mask the window? Seems much easier to paint this on the arch than to mask with tape, but I want to spray the window.
You could, but the tape may not stick well to the Liquid Mask. I would recommend tape/plastic up first, bringing the tape out an inch or so from the trim, then apply the liquid mask on the glass and the edge of the tape. I have never done this before, so you might want to test it, but I cannot imagine a problem. Make sure you use a low adhesion, super safe release tape on the glass (Scotch's Delicate Surface Edge Lock is my favorite). Don't worry about getting the Liquid Mask on the wood /trim (see below).
Since you are spraying you could also spray the Liquid Mask on all of the glass. It will adhere permanently to any wood or painted surface, so you don't need to worry about that (make sure those surfaces have been sanded). Your main issue would be the type of sprayer you are using; an airless should push the product just fine, but I don't know if an HVLP has the pressure. You may need to thin it down with water and adjust accordingly.
@@DaveMartin Thank you for the very thorough reply. I will certainly take your advice, much appreciated!
@@onepoket My pleasure! Good luck!
What about the black rubber seal between glass and frame?
The liquid mask will act like a primer on the seal. Might as well paint it and not put too much thought into it
@@jocu87 no mate the seal should stay black, some things are just meant for skill with th brush
@@MMcfly374 true. But nowadays it is actually safe to paint over the seal with acrylic. Won't Crack or damage the gasket overtime
How about the liquid mask you got on the wood , you just left in on there ?
As noted in the video, Liquid Mask will stick to wood and painted surfaces permanently like a regular primer; on glass it will not adhere permanently.
Would this be effective for staining glazed wooden partition doors?
Yes, as long as your glass is not frosted, the Liquid Mask would work the same as if you were painting the door.
Thanks Dave
Hi just wondering does it expire if not used for a awhile
I use cling film on the glass. Easy to apply, easy to remove, cheap, quick, and simple.
How do you make it stick & not move when painting?
U just changed my whoOooole LIFE, thank u!
;-)
What's that scraper to take the masking off bro
Titan 17002 2-Piece Multi-Purpose and Mini Razor Scraper Set
www.amazon.com/Titan-17002-Multi-Purpose-Razor-Scraper/dp/B00132H4OE/ref=sr_1_1?crid=18FKJ3G6Y9YGJ&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.AgmXRC4l-h0UIAeY6p9obdtN8AaPyRYihNWzSPWMQG46-PB36xeNrxfwe4WgP35_SRQmC-muMMVA_-VAZ_Tzko2Ypc6kAAP-kHH21A57cJSTCp9eWhEsPCoDKEmOmOGFLBkEmn09L9lj1LLF_QzYN13LiNH08HB-3t2ArIDBAN4LszRIhtENmzUWS_oiS8PV0LX5DsE3b8A1vgsV3uNK8c4LWRxNpnOavnKM1n1pxiS7hFMsyxPI9Qrogo84wSDwfQW-3DRMUXrcLtvJI89qrq437yRevqQS8JaByM9jSJM.qeEFlV5VNNxSXw1k5GkLdnVP63lTlaoqtUOOZjuAOuY&dib_tag=se&keywords=titan%2Bscraper&qid=1728113102&sprefix=titan%2Bscraper%2Btool%2Caps%2C220&sr=8-1&th=1
Where I can buy this product
I got mine on Amazon. Just not this brand. It worked fine.
What’s the name of the device holding rh do razor blade?
It's a Titan heavy duty long handled razor scraper
can I go ahead and apply one coat of paint let it dry and apply a 2nd coat than after it dries (2nd coat) score and peel odff?
Yes, that is not a problem.
I just paint carefully and any that goes on the glass just scrapes off when it's dry with a widow scraper.
Will this liquid mask spray on with HVLP?
I've never sprayed it with an HVLP, but my guess is that it will need to be thinned quite a bit as the HVLP may not have the pressure to atomize the product properly.
@@DaveMartin high viscosity product then I assume ?
@@EnduroDroneHub Yes, it's pretty thick
Those windows look perfect, I want a real world example. Please, thanks 🙏
Can I put liquid masquing tape to the fabric
No, you can not use it on fabric.
Can I use it on exterior too??
I have used it on exterior windows with no issues.
Things to keep in mind:
Make sure the windows are clean before you apply the Liquid Mask; if they are dirty and you apply this product over the dirty glass, it may be hard to remove. I also do not recommend removing the Liquid Mask in direct sunlight; it seems to come off easier in the shade and at a bit of a lower temperature. Remember the thicker you put in on, the easier (yes, easier) it will be to remove.
Thanks!
This is a great video! I am very happy with the results! Thx
My pleasure, I’m glad it was helpful 😀
that stuff is amazing
Why didn't you give the actual name of the product you used? (if you did and I missed it -please forgive the questions)
Jasco’s Liquid Mask and Seal. He mentioned it 4 seconds into the video.
How much time it takes to harden?
It really depends on temperature and humidity. As little as an hour or maybe as long as 4-5 hours (I used it outside in the middle of November (not a great idea) and it took about a day to dry).
Is it suitable for exterior?
Yes, you can use it outside. It's important before you apply it to clean your windows.
How long for the liquid tape to dry and start painting? Thanks..
It depends on the temperature and humidity; in my experience, it take about an hour or two to dry. You'll know it's completely dry when it's completely clear.
Can I use on the wooden floor?
No, it will stick to a wooden floor. It is only safe to use on glass.
@@DaveMartin Thanks
Hmm i dunno. If i was spraying, seems faster to mask with tape and plastic than to brush each window.
That is true. The way to work around the time issue would be to spray the Liquid Mask instead of brushing it on.
With 50 bucks of liquid mask you can do hundreds of windows blue frog tape is 22 bucks a 3 p k and it’s time consuming. It’s best for large spray jobs.
@@Skabanis good info. Appreciate it.
I have those sorts of window all over my house with probably 100 plus paynes and this is a god send .
What about gaskets?
So what happens to the blue tape now..
Do you recommend two coats of liquid mask with drying time between coats, rather than a thicker single coat?
I usually apply one thicker coat, but you can do it either way; in my experience doing two coats has a tendency to come off the window/glass a bit easier when you are all done because it's thicker.
I've painted thousands of windows and paint will remove from windows using a razor blade just as easy as without this product. Paint the grids then simply score the paint next to the grid (just like in the video) and then run your "sharp" blade (also pointed out in the video) along the grid and it will come off. It will take seconds longer but you get the same results less the time of applying the product and the extra cost of the product. What was conveniently "not" pointed out in the video was do not apply the product to the painted surface as was done in the video. You must take time to be neat and avoid doing so or the paint will not properly adhere to the painted area just as it does not adhere to the glass which is the whole purpose of the product, "prevent paint from adhering". This will further increase your time spent.
When you need to have paint 1/16 onto the glass, is this still possible?
If you need to paint on to the glass to create a 1/16” line, I would recommend using tape instead of the Liquid Mask. It will be far easier. I would use a low adhesion tape like 3M’s Delicate Surface Tape.
Or just put a filling knife/blade (or thin wallpaper trimmer next to the edge of the beading and score along the knife. This will create the line couple of mm on to the glass.
What product is this?
Jasco Liquid Mask and Seal
Thanks for clarifying on the frost windows !
No problem, thanks for the feedback!
Some claim it doesn't cure correctly in cold climates/cold window. Supposedly it turns into a flaky mess instead of a film. Thank you
If it is cold, say around 40 degrees for a long time, yes, it will take a while to cure or may not cure completely until it's warmer; best to use when it is warm (around 50 degrees).
The flaking problem usually occurs if the Liquid Mask is applied to thin.
Another interesting thing is that if you try to remove the Liquid Mask when it is really warm and especially in direct sunlight, it is much harder to remove. In this scenario, best to wait until the sun is not shining directly on it, or it cools down, then it will come off as advertised.
Thanks for the comment!
Great invention... Awesome product
Brilliant I'm definitely trying this next job needed
Will this work on plastic?
It is not recommended for plastic.
anyone know if this is safe to use on glass that has 3M window film it?
No, the window film would need to be removed first.
umm if paint doesn't stick to the glass, why not just paint over onto the glass and razor off the edge when its dry.
That’s an option, but it’s much harder to remove. The Liquid Mask just makes it easier.
@@DaveMartin no it's not I do it all the time, it takes about 5 seconds. easier to do if the paint is fresh. Ive only been painting for the last 30 years so what would I know?
@@magicmike6961 I had a painting business in Florida for 10 years and now renovate houses. Sorry Mr. magic, liquid mask is A LOT EASIER to remove from windows than painting onto the windows and then removing the excess. Because, once you get the liquid mask started, it comes off in, pretty much, one single sheet. Removing over-brushed paint from a window can be done, but you'll be spending more time going around the whole window with a scraper blade after you score the glass along the edges. Pretending they're the same is ludacris. Give the stuff a try and you'll never go back to the old way.
This is nothing new, Wagner made this in 1991 i remember using it, By the time you have brushed it on you could have cured cancer @@markkratzer2540
Is that expensive
Depending on where you get it, it's about $60-70/gal USD. For me it's a time saver, so I can justify the price, but, yes it's a bit expensive.
I didn’t know about this product but i think I’m going to try it
@@darknights696 Personally, if you decided to use tape, which I would recommend a low adhesion tape, the costs for the rolls of tape vs. the Liquid Mask is comparable. I also think in the end, it is faster and easier to use. I recommend it highly. Good Luck!
Thanks great video explanation new sub 👍
Thanks!
there's no need to do any of this just cut in with a nice worn in brush either a 1inch or a sash.
I hear people all the time saying that real painters don't use tape or real painters can do x or y. But this is a way to get a cleaner edge, less cost, or do it faster. That's good business
You sound like #BobRoss and paint like him too. 😅
Clear glass has a texture to it on a microscopic level. When you run your razor over it (even a new one) you are knocking that texture off and scratching the glass with it. When the light shines through it, people will see and complain.
Not true. I've been using a Stanley knife on windows I make for the past 9 years and have only once had a unit that's scratched due to a flaw.
@@jamesmacdonald5881 as a person that represents Marvin and Andersen, which both use Cardinal Glass, I can with 100% certainty tell you that you are incorrect. Clean the dust off your glasses and look closer at what you are doing to the glass.
You just said dont get it on the surface you paint yet you ve just got lots on the edges.more cost effective method.use vaseline. Why add expense .
Vaseline? Really? Liquid mask can be applied over painted surfaces and bare wood and will dry like a primer over those surfaces; it will not permanently adhere to glass. Vaseline, if you get it on the wood, will not stick.
As for expense, I simply adjust my materials cost; in the scheme of things it's not that much more than tape (decent tape, I don't use cheap tape for a lot of reasons).
Thanks for the comment!
The juice is at 3:20
Love this stuff. Thx
This product will be extremely handy for those French doors
Or just razor off any paint that’s on the window when you’re done painting
Why don't you just paint then scrape off the paint?
Thank u🙏
My pleasure, glad it was helpful!
What is the world coming to? Get one of the rare decorators who actually know how to cut in properly
Can straight people also use this product?
Seems like a waste of time to me. You can just paint on the smooth glass and scrap it off with a razor. You’re already having the scrape the excess thin mask and peel anyway. Just seems like an unnecessary expense and extra step.
If you use an inexpensive vinyl acrylic paint, I agree, it will scrape off easily. However, if you use a higher quality 100% acrylic paint, which adheres much better, then the paint will be harder to scrape off and will be more time consuming to remove. In my experience, I believe the time spent purchasing and applying the liquid mask is worth it.
The flat type of paint edger might make it easier.