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I keep POR15 almost indefinitely. When I open a can, stir well. Pour off what you need. Pour the remainder in a clean mason jar. The reason for the jar is you can easily clean the lip. Cap air tight. Never return used POR15 to the jar and never dip brush in the jar. Works very well for me. Great video.
This is the video I’ve been looking for. I’m restoring a jeep yj. Tons of rust and holes. I’ll be doing this on the whole chassis. It’s gonna be a Long Island beach buggy, so this is perfect!!! Thank you for this video!!!
I wanted to add a comment of caution here. Dry time accelerator is used here for a quick cure. 15 minutes vs an hour. My caution is that if you are covering metal with significant rust on it, I would want the longer cure time even with runs. The reason being that por-15 cures using moisture. It pulls it from the air but more importantly it also pulls it from the rust. I would think the longer dry time will allow the por-15 time to pull more moisture out of the rust leaving less chance for it to be sealed in and available for more rusting later.
Good point... however, if the prep solution is used correctly (Phosphoric Acid) there shouldn't be any rust left. The Metal Prep neutralizes the rust and also leaves a zinc phosphate coating, a known rust preventative. The POR15 then seals all that up for further moisture barrier. From my experience, the humidity of the environment determines the cure time. I'm in San Diego... which is mostly dry. On a super dry day, it takes up to four hours to cure one coat... that's just to get "tacky". On a humid day, I've seen it tack up in 30 minutes. So, the environment, combined with your desired of spray "tack time", should determine the use of the Accelerator. Hope that helps. Thanks for the comment!
I'm about to redo my ole mans 50+ year old Snapon tool boxes. Someone turned me on to POR15. Your video convinced me. I was about to spent a lot of money on a bead blaster from Harbor Freight. (Something I'd rarely use). I'm also finding that you can paint over POR15, if you don't want black or gray.
That's correct! If you're resurfacing the exterior, make sure you sand it perfectly flat. And yes, you can top coat POR15 within a certain time frame. Have fun!
That was a very informative video. Thanks! My son and I are going to POR-15 a jeep TJ undercarriage later this summer and I intend to use my HVLP so this was perfect info!
I just used this POR15 for the first time, and my dilemma began with a rusty fuel tank for an old Mr2. I first used Muriatic acid to de rust the tank and it worked well. Then after that long process, I began the task of sealing the inside so it wont rust again. I didn't want to do a rolling method with this expensive stuff, as I worried about puddling and bare spots and clogs, so, I devised a way to use a Previa atomizer and thinned it out with Acetone. Once I finished that, I realized that the top of my fuel tank where the ports are for the FP, sender unit and evaporators, were lacking contact with POR15. So I ended up using a flexible paint brush I could extend and shape, and just as well, my gloved fingers to brush on this stuff to those areas around each port. Well, while doing that, I noticed that some of this layer I painted and dried, came off like old box tape accidentally left on while painting. This was not tape though, it was a layer and strip of POR15 that came off just like tape, along with the stuff it stuck to, like surface rust that even that acid was unable to soak and get. That all said, this happened either because I diluted too much of the POR15 with Acetone, to get my atomizer sprayer to work properly, or, its just because there was some light and rough surface rust leftover at the top of the tank, and it came off with the rust it stuck onto. I would rather it be about leftover rust on the metal that didn't allow the paint sealer to dry on clean metal, but I worry just as well, that I messed up the chemistry of the sealer, by using nearly 1/3 of acetone to thin it out enough to work with this particular sprayer. I know I am beyond the 5 percent that the POR15 calls for, but still, should that just mean each layer I painted would just be light on the substance. I did layer it as much as possible, and areas I was able to directly spray seem pretty nice and thick, but, if this starts flaking off in my tank I am screwed.
Thanks for sharing your story... yeah, changing the formula is not a good idea. (Including the use of Muriatic Acid, which is Hydrochloric) The acid you should use needs to be Phosphoric. That leaves a Zinc Phosphate coating on the steel, to prevent future decay. Anyway, if you're saying you coated the inside of your tank with POR15, I'd recommend buying a new tank. As, I don't know if POR15 is fuel proof. Sorry for the bad news, but that's how I see it. Let us know if I missed something here...
@@FastMonty , the video was excellent and I thank you for it. The painting seems to be decent now, after another 12 hours of drying buy I bet I gave some bare or thin spots that could flake off. I read that it's repellent to gasoline but....I may not have read that from an actual Chemistry sheet from the product. Hmmm. Well, I better check that out to be sure as forums can sometime lead you astray. It did have quite the coat and it sells for reasons I saw online for motorcycle tanks, but I also hear that many won't speak about fuel tanks in cars since some states make that illegal along with handling muriatic Acid. I never played with that before but am happy with the results since this tank had alot of bad and rough rust...i did a 16 hour soak, 1:20 mixture with water, and it did get me to clean bare metal but I had 14 gallons to neutralize with baking powder after, and it took alot of baking powder. It was very strong as well, it burned when it hit my skin, and it gave me a nasty headache with its vapors, but, aside from all that, it went well. ;) This sealer, well, I made a big mess but I did get it sprayed in my tank eventually, and on my bare hands too after my gloves tore...The stuff is still on my hands as I write this, and it's a testament to its strength. I would do so much better if I had to do it all again, since I had to stumble through all this to learn the hard way about this process. I have to consider taking my tank to a professional, but, before that I'll at least try by soaking some gasoline in there for a day and night and see what happens. It's for a classic Mr2 Turbo, of year 1991, and a new tank is nit available. I can perhaps get a hold of a used one from the car clubs, but I'd have to clean that as well to ensure years of protection. I may 'roll' the last half of a quart I still have to ensure I have it at least topped with some of this unmixed polymer. This is what I wanted to avoid but, I think if I do it in small increments I may be able to get a good coating throughout the tank, and get past the partitions within the tank. First things first, I need to make sure this stuff is fuel repellent as many have said it is, and many defacto brochures and forums have stated.
Will the metal prep eat through existing paint? I'm curious as I am coating the undercarriage of a infinity G35. Not looking to strip everything down to bare metal... also there are some spots where the rubberized undercoating from factory has been scraped from car being low. Any recomendations for replacement (por15 rubberized coating any good?)
Good questions... Metal Prep "eating through paint"? depends on the paint, I don't think it would remove it. You can paint over anything, but it will only last as long as the substrate can handle it. Haven't used the the rubberized coating yet... let us know!
Very nice, I wish somebody had a video for spraying the stuff about 10 years ago! & yes do not get any on your self, think it took like 6 weeks to get that stuff off my hands! ;-) Side note, it's not like nomal paint! So it's very important to not get it in your eyes.. after talking to the rep about spraying it, I bought a full face respirator just for woking with the por-15. Anyways I cleaned up the engine bay on my accountants 1954 Chevy 3100 A wile back. As thing do, It snowballed into a much bigger job, that included stripping and painting the front half of the frame. (he wanted to do the back half later to save $) I used those skinny "behind the toilet" paint rollers on most of the frame with the POR 15. Worked great, I was very impressed at how it leveled out! After some Hammer & Dolly work, priming and a lot of sanding.. I sprayed the core support, upper radiator shroud & inner fenders with POR-15 Top Coat. Now beinng in the Socal desert , my first time spraying a high solid & in August to boot.. the paint was drying before it hit the metal! But after scrambling to clean the paint off before it set & increasing my solvent ratio to like15% I was able to get it to flow nice. and I 100% recommend spraying it, because it came out way better than the rep said it would! 🙂 I'm no content provider but the 54 is on my channel if any one wants to check it out.. there's hardly anything there, so it should be ez to find lol
Thanks for the story, and awesome testimonial! Yeah, just getting the vapor in your eyes stings like a MF'r. I probably would've been better off with Super Glue eye drops. Agreed a full face respirator/air supply is the way to go... which I have, and didn't use it. So, dumb. Anyway, thanks again for the awesome comment!
@@FastMonty yeah I was totally covered up and using My respirator even on my back rolling out the frame.. everything went perfect issue free, until I saw a little spot I missed and I hit it real quick with the roller not wearing my respirator and of course I got droplets in my eye.. It was the worst! I don't remember if the paint on my hands was then or spraying in my makeshift spray booth in the backyard 🤪
If you use the 3M disposable cup, it will come with a cap and it has a measuring on the side of the cup. And when you let it sit, take the gun off spray some 3M paint gun cleaner into your gun and hit the trigger a couple times. That is some powerful stuff.
Ahhh, I have those cups too... I love how you can measure in the cup, but don't like how you can't spray upside down. That said, great tip on the 3M Cleaner. I haven't tried that yet. Thanks!
3M disposable cup you can spray upside down turn the pressure off hold the gun upside-down hit the trigger it will suck all the air out first then you can turn your pressure down
@@robertthrem3382 I totally agree, but not as efficient as the DeKupps system. That said, the 3M system is compatible with 100x more guns, which makes that system awesome. Thanks!
Thanks, I like to see what is still around and new technology, updates ect! Two suggestions, first use a small thumb twist regulator on the spray gun base, for fine tuning airflow and pressure, second at your air supply down line runs, use a tee for actual supply and extend about 6 inches past the tee, as a additional water/partical trap, with or without a valve for drainage. If no valve clean periodically, with removing cap. House of Kolor, very good stuff, from decades ago experience!
Thanks Mark, that's exactly what I have set up. I didn't do a good job explaining the pressure regulator at the gun, nor the extra moisture trap. Thanks for pointing that out. Yup, House of Kolor is my favorite. See ya!
Very good gun technique! 2 recommendations, 1 with a top loading HVLP gun limit your time more when gun is not vertical, especially if gun cup is low, 2 use a box fan with an a/c type filter taped to it, for intake only on low this will help clear out your "paint booth" and keep particles out. Do not use fan as an exhaust, as paints mostly are flammable and box fans do not have explosion proof motors!
Good stuff Mark... small parts don't necessarily need a vent. I probably could of utilized one. My gun can shoot upside down, which is why I love the DeKupps system. But, most other guns can not shoot more than a couple seconds upside down. Thanks again!
@@FastMonty Very cool , it's been a while since I bought one. That sounds like a good reason for a new one, that won't splatter spray when turned over too long, lol!
So you didn’t use a primer? I can’t afford a frame off so this is the next step I will be doing this myself. I plan on cleaning the frame one section or side at a time and spraying. Mixing paints thinners/accelerators etc is all new to me so thanks for the info. There posted to the right video 😂
Great question... NO. I did use this gun for my Epoxy Primer, and High Build 2k Primer. But, used a higher end SATA for the base and clear. Thanks for the comment!
Hi! I really enjoyed your video. I just purchased my first POR-15 kit with the prep components. My plan is to use the kit for the floor wells and those trunk wells behind each rear tire. The problem is that all of these locations are ‘captive’ and I don’t know how I would wash off the prep components. Unfortunately or fortunately, my 1967 car doesn’t have any rust holes so I can’t rely on them to allow for water drainage. Any thoughts on this? Maybe a shop vac to evacuate flushing water.
Thanks... I get it. I'd recommend using a wet sponge, like a sponge bath. It'll take longer to clean and treat but should be less messy for prep. Have fun!
Thanks for the heads up. Fixed it! www.amazon.com/dp/B0015PKQ5I?linkCode=ssc&tag=onamzmikemont-20&creativeASIN=B0015PKQ5I&asc_item-id=amzn1.ideas.2FVA8BW0CZJJH&ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ofs_mixed_d_asin
I have just purchased a pontiac 400 firebird ram air 3 1969 4 speed earlier this year and it is a fixer although it runs good. I want to understand the ram air 3 system. I haven't found any videos on your channel that I could find. would you be able to make a short video on that. I would appreciate it. thanks
Congrats Jeff! Sounds like a fun project. There aren't many differences between a stock 400 and a Ram Air III. The only difference is the Headers, CAM, and cold air induction through the hood scoops. So, everything I go through on this channel applies to you too. :)
I love POR 15. I used it on my chassis. I used the brush. It lays down nice. However, t I've had friends complain of cracking after years of flexing, like on a chassis. Have you had any experience with this? My friends are pretty particular about their cars and I highly doubt they took short cuts when applying the product. Thoughts? One thing I will say, they have some pretty high HP machines.
Yeah, it does lay down nice, including spraying it... sounds like your friends need to stiffen up their chassis' ha, ha... :) That said, I don't have any issues with cracking, I also don't have 1200 hp, yet. BUT, it might be a good idea for POR 15 to come out with a flex additive. hmmm, good food for thought there.
I unfortunately don’t have a house and driveway to do the prep work so any work I do at my apartment parking lot has to be done fairly quick. Would cleaning rust off with wire wheel be enough for prep work. Don’t need it to be perfect just want to slow down rust.
Hey Emmanuel... good question. Just knocking off the loose rust will not stop the oxidation process. After you knock off the crud, you have to degrease it, then coat it with the Prep Solution. That solution is basically Phosphoric Acid... when it reacts with the Iron Oxide (Rust) it'll convert it to Zinc Oxide, which stops the oxidation process, and acts as a rust inhibitor. Then, and only then, do you coat it with the POR15 paint. Yes, you can brush it on. Hope that helps.
Hey another question. What octane do you run? Do you blend ? Im suppsed to run 94 octane I cant seem o find anything over 91 so I guess I'll have to blend in an additive Im looking for the best answer. Thanks man alot of your vids have helped me alot. Still dont have my car but its getting close
Good question... it is designed to be applied directly to metal, but it has to be CLEAN, and you should use their Metal Prep to neutralize the rust, just like I did in the video. Have fun!
Love this Video! Exactly what I needed to prepare myself for painting my 63’ Buick. Would you be willing to chat with me about this? Help walk me through it? Thanks!
@@FastMonty Have you ever used the por15 to paint an entire car? I don’t have the items needed to spray it on using an air gun. Wondering which you would recommend using a paint brush or paint rollers? A auto painter told me he doesn’t think this product is as good as paint and not going to last. What is ur opinion? Thank you
@@rodgerfolkerts4690 I painted the frame with a paint brush. Not sure what you're planning on painting, but if you follow the directions, it won't come off. Have fun!
Ha! I hear you... I soaked the gun parts in Acetone. Works fine for me. But, I also use this gun as my "primer" gun, just in case I miss cleaning an area, etc... I would never use a high end gun. Hope that helps.
Good question. No. Some people do a lousy job cleaning, and prepping, which is the most important. The Metal Prep step coats bare steel with Zinc, where if there was rust present, it will stop the corrosion, and also convert to zinc oxide. But, if there is any oil or grease present, it won't work. Hence the cleaing step. You have to be patient with cleaning and prep, before painting. Do all the steps properly, and it'll come out stellar! Have fun!
Use the mixing stick. Count how long it takes to start just to drip That’s the viscosity. Guessing should be 2 to 3 seconds for automotive paint. Pressure is key to every different type of gun
@@FastMonty Thank you sir. Ordered the same gun and paint kit on Amazon....I mean, I asked Santa Bezos for it. Thanks for all the tips in your vids. Loving the content.
If the blackboxes material is so strong, why don’t they make the whole plane of the same material? Which is of course just a joke. But on a more serious note, if POR15 is so great, why don’t OEM painting their undercarriage parts with it to begin with?
That's because no one wants to fly in an ORANGE plane that thinks it's Black. Bahahahaa. Why don't OEM's use it? I think that's pretty simple, they want people to buy a new car every 4 years. That was easy. :)
Ummm? Me? I used @por15 over 10 years ago, and it has held up great. This was not a sponsored video and I continue to us their products to this day. Thanks.
you probably spent 1000 dollars before pulling the trigger on your paint gun. This is the opposite of DIY, besides, POR15 is crap and expensive stuff. Use Epoxy primer and epoxy paint instead.
Spraying equipment (Compressor, lines, gun, dryer, etc..) to do it right, isn't cheap no matter what paint you're spraying. POR15 works for me, and I detail how to make it work. Oh, and the paint booth I set up... less than $5. Thanks.
I would think you would have used a 5 gallon home depot vacuum & hose rigging, to remove air in the booth. Need to circulate air in booths or draw it out.
You don't "need" to pull the air out of a booth, but it would definitely help with seeing what you're doing. Good idea about the vacuum... just make sure it's spark safe. The fumes are flammable, and fans can ignite it. Thanks!
@@FastMonty yes i did, pre rusting your shiny new parts to use a product that stops rust is,,, well,,, retarded. sorry i wizzed in your youtube cereal bowl chief,, trying to save people aggravation from using this product. it is designed for heavily rusted parts like grandpas old trailer no milk a couple of more years of use out of it. i have used this garbage 3 times,, and removed it 3 times. blast, 2 part epoxy primer, then top coat,, is a winner everytime.
@@scottvantassel2212 I agree there's more than one way to skin a cat. POR 15 works great when applied properly, as I've done several times. I know you didn't watch the video because I said my first application of POR15 was applied almost 15 years ago, and still looks great. Thanks.
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I keep POR15 almost indefinitely. When I open a can, stir well. Pour off what you need. Pour the remainder in a clean mason jar. The reason for the jar is you can easily clean the lip. Cap air tight. Never return used POR15 to the jar and never dip brush in the jar. Works very well for me. Great video.
Thanks Norm! Love the tip!
I really appreciate the detail on your setup and how to use! Also your paint booth solution.
Thanks Barry! Yeah, the paintbooth is unbeatable. ha, ha... thanks again!
Excellent tutorial, no nonsense and thorough- appreciate it 😎👍🏻
Thanks Richard! I appreciate your comment.
This is the video I’ve been looking for.
I’m restoring a jeep yj. Tons of rust and holes. I’ll be doing this on the whole chassis. It’s gonna be a Long Island beach buggy, so this is perfect!!!
Thank you for this video!!!
Glad I could help! Have fun painting, and have more fun playing in the sand... ha, ha... thanks for the comment!
Congratulations. I'm so glad this channel is growing so well, great to see a channel get the recognition they deserve.
Thanks Brandon!
I wanted to add a comment of caution here. Dry time accelerator is used here for a quick cure. 15 minutes vs an hour. My caution is that if you are covering metal with significant rust on it, I would want the longer cure time even with runs. The reason being that por-15 cures using moisture. It pulls it from the air but more importantly it also pulls it from the rust. I would think the longer dry time will allow the por-15 time to pull more moisture out of the rust leaving less chance for it to be sealed in and available for more rusting later.
Good point... however, if the prep solution is used correctly (Phosphoric Acid) there shouldn't be any rust left. The Metal Prep neutralizes the rust and also leaves a zinc phosphate coating, a known rust preventative. The POR15 then seals all that up for further moisture barrier. From my experience, the humidity of the environment determines the cure time. I'm in San Diego... which is mostly dry. On a super dry day, it takes up to four hours to cure one coat... that's just to get "tacky". On a humid day, I've seen it tack up in 30 minutes. So, the environment, combined with your desired of spray "tack time", should determine the use of the Accelerator. Hope that helps. Thanks for the comment!
I'm about to redo my ole mans 50+ year old Snapon tool boxes. Someone turned me on to POR15. Your video convinced me. I was about to spent a lot of money on a bead blaster from Harbor Freight. (Something I'd rarely use). I'm also finding that you can paint over POR15, if you don't want black or gray.
That's correct! If you're resurfacing the exterior, make sure you sand it perfectly flat. And yes, you can top coat POR15 within a certain time frame. Have fun!
That was a very informative video. Thanks! My son and I are going to POR-15 a jeep TJ undercarriage later this summer and I intend to use my HVLP so this was perfect info!
Thanks! You're gonna love it!
Ya, I see you've posted a lot I'll catch up over the next few days, I didn't have the bell on, I do now!
Ohhh yeah, that bell. Comes in handy. Ha, ha... welcome back!
I just used this POR15 for the first time, and my dilemma began with a rusty fuel tank for an old Mr2. I first used Muriatic acid to de rust the tank and it worked well. Then after that long process, I began the task of sealing the inside so it wont rust again. I didn't want to do a rolling method with this expensive stuff, as I worried about puddling and bare spots and clogs, so, I devised a way to use a Previa atomizer and thinned it out with Acetone.
Once I finished that, I realized that the top of my fuel tank where the ports are for the FP, sender unit and evaporators, were lacking contact with POR15. So I ended up using a flexible paint brush I could extend and shape, and just as well, my gloved fingers to brush on this stuff to those areas around each port. Well, while doing that, I noticed that some of this layer I painted and dried, came off like old box tape accidentally left on while painting. This was not tape though, it was a layer and strip of POR15 that came off just like tape, along with the stuff it stuck to, like surface rust that even that acid was unable to soak and get.
That all said, this happened either because I diluted too much of the POR15 with Acetone, to get my atomizer sprayer to work properly, or, its just because there was some light and rough surface rust leftover at the top of the tank, and it came off with the rust it stuck onto. I would rather it be about leftover rust on the metal that didn't allow the paint sealer to dry on clean metal, but I worry just as well, that I messed up the chemistry of the sealer, by using nearly 1/3 of acetone to thin it out enough to work with this particular sprayer.
I know I am beyond the 5 percent that the POR15 calls for, but still, should that just mean each layer I painted would just be light on the substance. I did layer it as much as possible, and areas I was able to directly spray seem pretty nice and thick, but, if this starts flaking off in my tank I am screwed.
Thanks for sharing your story... yeah, changing the formula is not a good idea. (Including the use of Muriatic Acid, which is Hydrochloric) The acid you should use needs to be Phosphoric. That leaves a Zinc Phosphate coating on the steel, to prevent future decay. Anyway, if you're saying you coated the inside of your tank with POR15, I'd recommend buying a new tank. As, I don't know if POR15 is fuel proof. Sorry for the bad news, but that's how I see it. Let us know if I missed something here...
@@FastMonty , the video was excellent and I thank you for it.
The painting seems to be decent now, after another 12 hours of drying buy I bet I gave some bare or thin spots that could flake off.
I read that it's repellent to gasoline but....I may not have read that from an actual Chemistry sheet from the product. Hmmm. Well, I better check that out to be sure as forums can sometime lead you astray. It did have quite the coat and it sells for reasons I saw online for motorcycle tanks, but I also hear that many won't speak about fuel tanks in cars since some states make that illegal along with handling muriatic Acid. I never played with that before but am happy with the results since this tank had alot of bad and rough rust...i did a 16 hour soak, 1:20 mixture with water, and it did get me to clean bare metal but I had 14 gallons to neutralize with baking powder after, and it took alot of baking powder.
It was very strong as well, it burned when it hit my skin, and it gave me a nasty headache with its vapors, but, aside from all that, it went well. ;)
This sealer, well, I made a big mess but I did get it sprayed in my tank eventually, and on my bare hands too after my gloves tore...The stuff is still on my hands as I write this, and it's a testament to its strength.
I would do so much better if I had to do it all again, since I had to stumble through all this to learn the hard way about this process.
I have to consider taking my tank to a professional, but, before that I'll at least try by soaking some gasoline in there for a day and night and see what happens. It's for a classic Mr2 Turbo, of year 1991, and a new tank is nit available. I can perhaps get a hold of a used one from the car clubs, but I'd have to clean that as well to ensure years of protection.
I may 'roll' the last half of a quart I still have to ensure I have it at least topped with some of this unmixed polymer. This is what I wanted to avoid but, I think if I do it in small increments I may be able to get a good coating throughout the tank, and get past the partitions within the tank.
First things first, I need to make sure this stuff is fuel repellent as many have said it is, and many defacto brochures and forums have stated.
@@phoenixmistertwo8815 Keep us posted!
Will the metal prep eat through existing paint? I'm curious as I am coating the undercarriage of a infinity G35. Not looking to strip everything down to bare metal... also there are some spots where the rubberized undercoating from factory has been scraped from car being low. Any recomendations for replacement (por15 rubberized coating any good?)
Good questions... Metal Prep "eating through paint"? depends on the paint, I don't think it would remove it. You can paint over anything, but it will only last as long as the substrate can handle it. Haven't used the the rubberized coating yet... let us know!
Very nice, I wish somebody had a video for spraying the stuff about 10 years ago!
& yes do not get any on your self, think it took like 6 weeks to get that stuff off my hands! ;-)
Side note, it's not like nomal paint! So it's very important to not get it in your eyes.. after talking to the rep about spraying it, I bought a full face respirator just for woking with the por-15.
Anyways I cleaned up the engine bay on my accountants 1954 Chevy 3100 A wile back.
As thing do, It snowballed into a much bigger job, that included stripping and painting the front half of the frame. (he wanted to do the back half later to save $)
I used those skinny "behind the toilet" paint rollers on most of the frame with the POR 15.
Worked great, I was very impressed at how it leveled out!
After some Hammer & Dolly work, priming and a lot of sanding.. I sprayed the core support, upper radiator shroud & inner fenders with POR-15 Top Coat.
Now beinng in the Socal desert , my first time spraying a high solid & in August to boot.. the paint was drying before it hit the metal! But after scrambling to clean the paint off before it set & increasing my solvent ratio to like15% I was able to get it to flow nice. and I 100% recommend spraying it, because it came out way better than the rep said it would! 🙂
I'm no content provider but the 54 is on my channel if any one wants to check it out.. there's hardly anything there, so it should be ez to find lol
Thanks for the story, and awesome testimonial! Yeah, just getting the vapor in your eyes stings like a MF'r. I probably would've been better off with Super Glue eye drops. Agreed a full face respirator/air supply is the way to go... which I have, and didn't use it. So, dumb. Anyway, thanks again for the awesome comment!
@@FastMonty yeah I was totally covered up and using My respirator even on my back rolling out the frame.. everything went perfect issue free, until I saw a little spot I missed and I hit it real quick with the roller not wearing my respirator and of course I got droplets in my eye.. It was the worst! I don't remember if the paint on my hands was then or spraying in my makeshift spray booth in the backyard 🤪
@@gorr4 Ouch! Yeah, most of my eye lashes were stuck together too... lol
If you use the 3M disposable cup, it will come with a cap and it has a measuring on the side of the cup. And when you let it sit, take the gun off spray some 3M paint gun cleaner into your gun and hit the trigger a couple times. That is some powerful stuff.
Ahhh, I have those cups too... I love how you can measure in the cup, but don't like how you can't spray upside down. That said, great tip on the 3M Cleaner. I haven't tried that yet. Thanks!
3M disposable cup you can spray upside down turn the pressure off hold the gun upside-down hit the trigger it will suck all the air out first then you can turn your pressure down
@@robertthrem3382 I totally agree, but not as efficient as the DeKupps system. That said, the 3M system is compatible with 100x more guns, which makes that system awesome. Thanks!
Turned out great as usual Mike
Thanks Brother! I can't wait to get back to driving again! Been too long... ha, ha... Thanks again.
Thanks, I like to see what is still around and new technology, updates ect! Two suggestions, first use a small thumb twist regulator on the spray gun base, for fine tuning airflow and pressure, second at your air supply down line runs, use a tee for actual supply and extend about 6 inches past the tee, as a additional water/partical trap, with or without a valve for drainage. If no valve clean periodically, with removing cap. House of Kolor, very good stuff, from decades ago experience!
Thanks Mark, that's exactly what I have set up. I didn't do a good job explaining the pressure regulator at the gun, nor the extra moisture trap. Thanks for pointing that out. Yup, House of Kolor is my favorite. See ya!
@@FastMonty Cool stuff!
U read my mind man, I wanna do undercar work to my modded SL2 , especially since I'm adding boost and an engine build, etc.
Ha! That's Awesome! Glad I could give you some inspiration. Have fun!
you cover the opwn can with some seran wrap, plastic sheeting put the lid on and store it upside down
Good idea. Thanks Roland!
Gotta meet your wife.
Awesome video and well done.
Ha! Why meet my wife, to negotiate half of my GTO? I'm surprised you didn't comment about my Margarita recipe, ha, ha... thanks for the comment!
We native people's love fire in our women.
@@firstnationsindian8062 Ha! And that's exactly why I married a Puerto Rican. :)
Very good gun technique! 2 recommendations, 1 with a top loading HVLP gun limit your time more when gun is not vertical, especially if gun cup is low, 2 use a box fan with an a/c type filter taped to it, for intake only on low this will help clear out your "paint booth" and keep particles out. Do not use fan as an exhaust, as paints mostly are flammable and box fans do not have explosion proof motors!
Good stuff Mark... small parts don't necessarily need a vent. I probably could of utilized one. My gun can shoot upside down, which is why I love the DeKupps system. But, most other guns can not shoot more than a couple seconds upside down. Thanks again!
@@FastMonty Very cool , it's been a while since I bought one. That sounds like a good reason for a new one, that won't splatter spray when turned over too long, lol!
Great info...Thanks Mike!!
Glad I could help!
So you didn’t use a primer? I can’t afford a frame off so this is the next step I will be doing this myself. I plan on cleaning the frame one section or side at a time and spraying. Mixing paints thinners/accelerators etc is all new to me so thanks for the info. There posted to the right video 😂
Correct, POR15 works best when applied directly to chemically etched, and CLEAN metal. Good luck on your project! Thanks for the comment.
Great video!
Thanks Vee!
Hey Mike, is that the same gun you used to paint your car with?
Great question... NO. I did use this gun for my Epoxy Primer, and High Build 2k Primer. But, used a higher end SATA for the base and clear. Thanks for the comment!
Hi! I really enjoyed your video. I just purchased my first POR-15 kit with the prep components. My plan is to use the kit for the floor wells and those trunk wells behind each rear tire. The problem is that all of these locations are ‘captive’ and I don’t know how I would wash off the prep components. Unfortunately or fortunately, my 1967 car doesn’t have any rust holes so I can’t rely on them to allow for water drainage. Any thoughts on this? Maybe a shop vac to evacuate flushing water.
Thanks... I get it. I'd recommend using a wet sponge, like a sponge bath. It'll take longer to clean and treat but should be less messy for prep. Have fun!
The link for your disposable cups is the wrong link. Same link as the filter
Thanks for the heads up. Fixed it! www.amazon.com/dp/B0015PKQ5I?linkCode=ssc&tag=onamzmikemont-20&creativeASIN=B0015PKQ5I&asc_item-id=amzn1.ideas.2FVA8BW0CZJJH&ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ofs_mixed_d_asin
I have just purchased a pontiac 400 firebird ram air 3 1969 4 speed earlier this year and it is a fixer although it runs good. I want to understand the ram air 3 system. I haven't found any videos on your channel that I could find. would you be able to make a short video on that. I would appreciate it. thanks
Congrats Jeff! Sounds like a fun project. There aren't many differences between a stock 400 and a Ram Air III. The only difference is the Headers, CAM, and cold air induction through the hood scoops. So, everything I go through on this channel applies to you too. :)
I love POR 15. I used it on my chassis. I used the brush. It lays down nice. However, t I've had friends complain of cracking after years of flexing, like on a chassis. Have you had any experience with this? My friends are pretty particular about their cars and I highly doubt they took short cuts when applying the product. Thoughts? One thing I will say, they have some pretty high HP machines.
Yeah, it does lay down nice, including spraying it... sounds like your friends need to stiffen up their chassis' ha, ha... :) That said, I don't have any issues with cracking, I also don't have 1200 hp, yet. BUT, it might be a good idea for POR 15 to come out with a flex additive. hmmm, good food for thought there.
Its peeled off on me. I use chassis saver now.
I unfortunately don’t have a house and driveway to do the prep work so any work I do at my apartment parking lot has to be done fairly quick. Would cleaning rust off with wire wheel be enough for prep work. Don’t need it to be perfect just want to slow down rust.
Hey Emmanuel... good question. Just knocking off the loose rust will not stop the oxidation process. After you knock off the crud, you have to degrease it, then coat it with the Prep Solution. That solution is basically Phosphoric Acid... when it reacts with the Iron Oxide (Rust) it'll convert it to Zinc Oxide, which stops the oxidation process, and acts as a rust inhibitor. Then, and only then, do you coat it with the POR15 paint. Yes, you can brush it on. Hope that helps.
@@FastMontyI wire wheeled and degreased it with engine degreaser tho do u think it will work I didn’t use the prep solution
@@aidenog7380 My vote is, better safe than sorry... use the POR 15 recommended prep.
Hey another question. What octane do you run? Do you blend ? Im suppsed to run 94 octane I cant seem o find anything over 91 so I guess I'll have to blend in an additive Im looking for the best answer. Thanks man alot of your vids have helped me alot. Still dont have my car but its getting close
Hey Dan, I'm running 91, with no additives. What compression ratio is your engine?
I have a 31' horse trailer, very little rust,can i spray it over existing paint or do i need to prime?
Good question... it is designed to be applied directly to metal, but it has to be CLEAN, and you should use their Metal Prep to neutralize the rust, just like I did in the video. Have fun!
Love this Video! Exactly what I needed to prepare myself for painting my 63’ Buick. Would you be willing to chat with me about this? Help walk me through it? Thanks!
You can send me an email... but, this video is extremely thorough. Every step is critical, especially degreasing. Good luck, and let me know.
@@FastMonty Have you ever used the por15 to paint an entire car? I don’t have the items needed to spray it on using an air gun. Wondering which you would recommend using a paint brush or paint rollers? A auto
painter told me he doesn’t think this product is as good as paint and not going to last. What is ur opinion? Thank you
@@rodgerfolkerts4690 I painted the frame with a paint brush. Not sure what you're planning on painting, but if you follow the directions, it won't come off. Have fun!
@@FastMonty I’m painting my 63’ Buick Skylark. Instead of paint. Going to try to use roller’s tomorrow on the hood and see how it looks. Thx
@@FastMonty Have u ever painted anything but parts, bigger flat parts? Thx
What are you using to clean out your gun after spraying? I threw away about everything POR 15 had touched last time I used it.
Ha! I hear you... I soaked the gun parts in Acetone. Works fine for me. But, I also use this gun as my "primer" gun, just in case I miss cleaning an area, etc... I would never use a high end gun. Hope that helps.
Is it true there needs to be some rust present for POR to work properly?
Good question. No. Some people do a lousy job cleaning, and prepping, which is the most important. The Metal Prep step coats bare steel with Zinc, where if there was rust present, it will stop the corrosion, and also convert to zinc oxide. But, if there is any oil or grease present, it won't work. Hence the cleaing step. You have to be patient with cleaning and prep, before painting. Do all the steps properly, and it'll come out stellar! Have fun!
Thanks!
Very cool, thanks for the support!
Can you use regular paint thinner?
I have nooo idea... it does smell like mineral spirits, but I haven't tasted it yet. ha, ha... might call the POR15 team to find out. Have fun!
Didn’t learn the air pressure or viscosity of the paint
Hey Larry, are you asking a question, or telling me what I left out? :)
Use the mixing stick. Count how long it takes to start just to drip That’s the viscosity. Guessing should be 2 to 3 seconds for automotive paint. Pressure is key to every different type of gun
Good point. I like the three second test you mention... This gun likes 23psi inlet pressure. Thanks!@@larrysloan9296
Can you use any kind of reducer with the por15
I honestly do not know... that said, their reducer smells like mineral spirits. I have yet to do a taste test. :)
Can you tell what your gun settings were? I’m going to using this to spray my whole motor with POR15 and topcoat
Sure... maxed out spray pattern with 23psi going in the gun. Hope that helps!
@@FastMonty Thank you sir. Ordered the same gun and paint kit on Amazon....I mean, I asked Santa Bezos for it. Thanks for all the tips in your vids. Loving the content.
@@DriveBreakFixRepeat70 Great to hear! Thanks
So you spray it, or brush it on??
Either way. This video is about spraying it.
I came here for the margarita recipe
Most people do... enjoy it!
If the blackboxes material is so strong, why don’t they make the whole plane of the same material? Which is of course just a joke. But on a more serious note, if POR15 is so great, why don’t OEM painting their undercarriage parts with it to begin with?
That's because no one wants to fly in an ORANGE plane that thinks it's Black. Bahahahaa. Why don't OEM's use it? I think that's pretty simple, they want people to buy a new car every 4 years. That was easy. :)
Cool
Thanks!
Anyone telling you to use por15 doesn't like you.
Ummm? Me? I used @por15 over 10 years ago, and it has held up great. This was not a sponsored video and I continue to us their products to this day. Thanks.
Looks good and good video but that’s not an HVLP. Looks like a conventional compressed air sprayer with a gravity feed gun to me
Ironically, it's a gravity fed HVLP gun. Thanks!
You couldn't give me that stuff for free do a break fluid test you'll see what I'm talking about.
Everyone has their favorites... thanks!
Never do this
Never do what?
you probably spent 1000 dollars before pulling the trigger on your paint gun. This is the opposite of DIY, besides, POR15 is crap and expensive stuff. Use Epoxy primer and epoxy paint instead.
Spraying equipment (Compressor, lines, gun, dryer, etc..) to do it right, isn't cheap no matter what paint you're spraying. POR15 works for me, and I detail how to make it work. Oh, and the paint booth I set up... less than $5. Thanks.
I would think you would have used a 5 gallon home depot vacuum & hose rigging, to remove air in the booth. Need to circulate air in booths or draw it out.
You don't "need" to pull the air out of a booth, but it would definitely help with seeing what you're doing. Good idea about the vacuum... just make sure it's spark safe. The fumes are flammable, and fans can ignite it. Thanks!
POR 15 is one of the most over used and misunderstood restoration products ever,, absolute garbage in my opinion.
It's worked great for me. Hence this video on how to apply it properly. Thanks.
@@FastMonty i bet you dont say that in a couple of years.
@@scottvantassel2212 you clearly did not watch this video, did you?
@@FastMonty yes i did, pre rusting your shiny new parts to use a product that stops rust is,,, well,,, retarded. sorry i wizzed in your youtube cereal bowl chief,, trying to save people aggravation from using this product. it is designed for heavily rusted parts like grandpas old trailer no milk a couple of more years of use out of it. i have used this garbage 3 times,, and removed it 3 times. blast, 2 part epoxy primer, then top coat,, is a winner everytime.
@@scottvantassel2212 I agree there's more than one way to skin a cat. POR 15 works great when applied properly, as I've done several times. I know you didn't watch the video because I said my first application of POR15 was applied almost 15 years ago, and still looks great. Thanks.