Classic G-Body Garage im having a similar problem with my 80 calais . the tach reads around 2000 at idle but sounds like 1000 - 1100 . also seems incorrect when in gear. Fuel gauge works oil sensor seems to work and temp gauge does not. Would you recommend i try the repair tips in this video ? And is it fairly obvious how to remove the speedo cable ?
DUde, I know you posted this 4 years ago and I hope you're still reading your comments but I have to say,,,,you're the G body GURU! I have an 86 442 and my deal was the volt meter either not working or when it would warm up and Id smack the dash, it would come up to maybe 9-10 volts but that affected the accuracy of the gas/ temp/ oil gauge. Some days when the voltmeter would read closer to the yellow, the rest of the gauges would be more accurate. I had read that there was a break in the printed circuit board...as long as the tach worked and I knew how much gas was in the car, I never gave it much though. Two weeks ago I pulled the cluster out to oil the speedo cable. Couldnt beleive how easy that cluster came out. I was almost going to buy a different cluster on ebay.....but I thought what if it had the same problem? I couldnt believe how simple a repair this was. I just pulled the cluster out 30 min ago and all 4 of those 5/16th nuts were loose. Tightened them up, put it back together and the voltmeter is up at 14, gas gauge went from quarter to half and the temp gauge is lower than it was...oil pressure is higher. Hell, I almost bought a set of mechanical water and temp gauges but it's a sleeper with a 68 Olds 350. I just dont dig aftermarket gauges, hood scoops, big tires int he back , loud exhaust. THANK YOU for pointed out a simple fix. THose were the easiest instructions to follow that actually worked. Broken printed circuit board my ass. A few loose nuts and it's like new. Definitely have to subscribe to this channel.
I always read and reply to my comments. Yeah some fixes are really simple and glad my video helped you out and saved you some cash from buying another cluster that might have had the same simple issue. Thanks for watching and stay tuned for more vids!
Found a printed article with diagrams as well. Fixed my 87 cutlass salon tach by sokdering a small copoer wire on v8 side! Magic!!!! 600 rpm idle!! Before: 1200 rpm and red line upon acceleration
Nylon scuff pad on a finger nail file cut to fit to clean the clips for the gages. Same with the printed circuit contacts, be gentle and go two directions. Home improvement stores sell dielectric grease for $4-6 a tube. This keeps the copper contacts free from moisture and turning green. If the tabs of the printed circuit come loose, cut a silver of masking tape to fit. Leave extra hanging off and fold onto its self to make a handle. Clean the back with a "Q-Tip" and apply a 5 minute epoxy and just enough to cover the back. Wipe on a dab with a tooth pick. Fold a hand rag like microfiber and test in advance for fit. It may help to use a flat blade pocket screwdriver for proper tension. Grab plastic wrap or wax paper (Parchment Paper works too) but fold of towel so it can't stick. The tabs, copper traces on the printed circuit boards can be fixed. Gently scape a brake with a razor blade or Ex-Acto knife to clean. Add rosin flux first while heating small soldering iron. There is very little amperage (Amps) so small gauge wire works fine. As far a gas gages, on GM's and most vehicles they all work the same. One terminal is B+ with key on, center terminal goes to sender inside the tank, the last is ground. Have a test light? Hook it to B+ after testing and identifying other terminals and with hooked to power, touch last terminal, bulb should light. Look at Brothers Truck video for fuel gauge only repair as GM used the same system on cars and trucks for decades. 0-90 ohms or resistance is the senders job to vary resistance to the gauge. To make it simple, like two nails with wire wound counter-clockwise and the other is wound clockwise. It become a push-pull on the needle. Best of luck. DK, ASE master tech since 78.
Brian, Gene here. Thanks again for posting this video! I finally got around to getting this job done yesterday on my 79 blue Calais. I watched it several times in the past and again yesterday before I started. I worked it all just like you had in your video, with only 2 minor changes. One was, before re-setting each bulb back into their socket I applied a very small dab of bulb grease. Second, since my tach was NOS when I installed it 12 years ago the prong connector was still in good enough condition to keep. I took a BIG chance and just bent the metal jumper a slight bit so it had more of a curve, cleaned everything and re-installed it. The only real issue I came up against was the (black) bulb socket for the upper left side of the tack was stuck due to melting the casing. I could not hand loosen it, so since it was about the only one that was working I just left it, rather than risking ripping the printed circuit board (which was also NOS when I installed it 12 years ago). A total success, all lights work and the tach is no longer giving me a false reading, gauges are perfect too. MUCH APPRECIATED! Gene Miller
I have an inherited '85 Cutlass with the Rallye Gauges. The gauges have quit working one by one since I've had the car. Now I know most likely why. Recently, the alternator stopped charging and the charge lamp no longer works at all. Other indicator lamps are normal. Getting into the gauge cluster just to change a bulb seemed daunting. After watching this video it doesn't look so bad. While at it, will also attempt a quick fix for the gauges. Many thanks.
I just tried to repair my 79 H/O cluster and I had everything working, replaced the lights with leds, makes is much better. I did ALL the tips suggested from adding tension to all the contacts to making sure the light sockets were freshly bent to work with the new leds. Sadly the tach which WAS working correctly has now lost it's mind and one minuet it's fine and the next it's at zero. As much as I hate to have to take it out again, I may resort to the soldering tip to eliminate the original plastic red clip. Can't thank the author enough for guiding me/us through this repair. It gave me confidence going in that I can do this. Thumbs up all the way.....
I really appreciate your how to step by step instructions that I can understand. My son is definitely going to appreciate your help in the restoration of his 3rd generation 80. You are the g body master! Thank you!!
EXCELLENT! I used this video to fix my tach, also soldered a broken point on the printed gauge circuit. Never would have attempted this without this video....
Thanks so much for this video! Today was the first time I ever took the dash down to changing out the bulbs. I was also able to ADJ my tech by bending the little metal clips down more. This video was a tremendous help. Thanks again!
Thank you for sharing this! I have a 1984 Hurst/Olds and my cluster is acting weird. I will follow all of your steps and hope this work! thank you again!
Finally got the Olds 403 in my 1986 Z/28 and holy does it ever get up and go, 403 has a boat load of torque roast the tires no problem. Can't wait for Monday get insurance and go Mustang hunting!
Brian; Thanks for the video on this! It was perfect timing for the 79 Hurst T-top car I frame off restored and is nearing completion. I ended up going through both my T-top cars gauges and its made a big difference. Thanks again. Steve
Very nice video I just bought a 83 El Camino that was sitting for 4 plus years to make a very long story short rebuilt or replace everything on the car that wears i noticed my Tach isn't accurate and all other gauges pretty much inop and it has a new fuel send unit oil and temp so a cluster we will be rebuilding thanks again Great Video
Thanks a ton man! I picked up an 85 cutty with rally gauges yesterday and all my gauges pretty much act like yours. Gonna tackle this over the weekend.
I bought LED lights to replace the incandescent bulbs in the cluster. I have the same TACH and oil pressure gauge problem. The incandescent lamps are hard to see even at night so the LED lights should take care of that, they have a blue tint to them. I assume the gauge cluster is the same or close to it on the El Camino's. Great info, thanks a bunch.
Barely got my first vehicle and its an 85 cutlass salon. Really good looking car just got it running after 10 years but I'm having same problems with gauges. Really good video and really helpful. You wouldn't happen to have any extra parts really really need a center console!??? Thank you!
Just bought a rally cluster for my 84 cutlass, they had a wire soldered across both v6 and v8 tach spots hopefully they didnt mess it up haven't got to test it yet
This video just saved me so much time!!! Thank you so much. One Question though, what's the loose plug sitting behind the temp sensor on the olds motor.
@@ClassicGBodyGarage yes sir everything but the faulty temp gauge ! But still no cluster lights . Printed circuit broke looks good jumped at the harness plug in and all the lights work together . Posted a comment below my other comment. I’m lost at this point
Did all this ! All my gauges but the temp works now . Temp constantly reads past hot ! But my lights still aren’t working . When I tested them with 12v they all work . Check engine , battery and seat belt comes on but no lights . Even took the light switch out and cleaned it up
@@ClassicGBodyGarage Alright Update On My Cluster . None Of My Lights Are Working ! I’ve Cleaned All Connections, Tightened The Loose Screws , Bent The Socket Connection Pins Also Put Tension Back On The Harness Plug Pins . Checked Fuse . My Check Engine Light, Battery And Seat Belt Light Comes On . Replaced Dimmer And Headlight Switch And Still Nothing . I’ve Used 12v To The Cluster Where The Harness Plugs In And All The Lights Worked At Once . Checked And Cleaned Ground Under Dash And Still No Lights When I Put It In !
Thanks for the great video. I replaced my whole printed circuit cause it was delaminating. I have a question what would cause the right turn signal to stay on with the running lights on? Turn signal still works.
did the fuse and new sensors... also check all light bulbs and the only one that light up are 3 on the side of the gauges no other ones light up.. all bulbs are functual.. and don't know if this was already done by previous owner, but I'm missing the yellow wire on the plug in behind the cluster. I need the wiring configuration to make sure their all in the right port.
Tach and speedo is good. So is the volt meter. Everything else is completely dead. No water temp, no fuel (stays on empty), and no oil. Engine was swapped out at some point so who knows. Everything else is working so I’m afraid to take it apart for something else to go wrong. Blinkers, etc also working perfectly. Biggest concern is fuel and temp how can I troubleshoot otherwise ?
Thank you for the informative video. Just about to pull the cluster from my '79 H/O to get the tac working and replace the bulbs. My trip odo is not working, any ideas on that?What do you think of using the brighter 168 bulbs for all applications (maybe not for indicator lights) Will they harm the dash parts over time, in that I don't drive all that much at night?
I just bought a 1984 Monte Carlo SS. A few dash lights are out, The temperature gauge does not work, and the tachometer is not reading correctly. I will pull the gauge cluster apart, and follow your info on how to make things work again. Will let you know how I do. Thanks.
Hey brian, I just took my granny cluster out to change some bulbs and I put it back in and now my speedo needle is jumping all over , it use to jump a little bit under 30km then it would be fine but now since I took it out and put it back in it's going crazy , it also makes a ticking noise. any ideas on how to fix it?
So i've got a 1984 Monte carlo with the 3.8 v6. My dash gauges dont have the little orange meters, just red lights in the center when the light comes on for battery, temperature or oil... is there a way to get another gauge for the dash with the orange meters? the current one doesn't have numbers for oil pressure or temperature and theres no rpm gauge, no tachometer just an orange meter for the gas gauge and mph gauge. Do i need to get a side cluster with new gauges and just have it wired to ground wires? Or should i get another gauge cluster for the dashboard? I'm also looking into removing the "air pollution pump" and all its bs connections. Live in Cleveland, cars past 1994 dont need an echeck. Wondering if theres any videos or advice for that? Looking into a performance 2 bbl carb.. holley.. any help would be appreciated. Thanks Brian love the channel, been watching since 2017.
You need to find yourself the entire gauge housing assembly. You then need gauge type oil and temp sensors and also need to re-pin the main plug that feeds the gauge cluster. The swap is similar to my Cutlass gauge cluster swap video on my channel I reference in this video.
Thanks for the very informative video. Have you tried using a copper paste/paint to repair the circuit board? (I've think I've seen a show where some one masked off the missing circuit and painted it on) And do you ever put a conductive grease on the connections or recommend it?
my supreme has a cluster that does not have the TAC in it. but I have a parts car cutlass salon that does. can I change that cluster to my supreme with no problem?
Had anyone ever had a problem with a ‘gauges’ fuse blowing and causing the whole ‘ignition’ system to go out? I think I finally fixed my issue, but it took me a lot of trouble shooting. Just want to know if this is a common thing that happens when gauges fuse blows. Great video btw 🤙
+Carlos Perez Thanks for the subscribe and for watching my videos. I have never had to use a company to fix the speedo itself. I may have an extra I can sell depending on what you have or need. email me. olds7980@yahoo.com
Have a 1984 Pontiac Grand Prix thought my gauge cluster was broke sent it out to be repaired they told me everything works on it.So what else can I check and where would I be able to find the gauge cluster electrical connector at?
I got an 87 442 few years back with a bad 307 so swapped to an olds 350 recently removed cluster and noticed I don't have that red clip for the tach, there is a jumper but goes across all three solder points, from the 6 on top across the center and across the bottom, is this Ok? Should I cut it?
Brian, I pulled the tach out of the dash, and it doesn't have the little red part that is in your video. Is it because my 84 Monte Carlo SS is a V-8, and possibly all SS Monte Carlos came with V-8 engines. At idle the tach is reading about 1700 rpm. I was told that there is a bad resister, and that you can splice one into a chip in the tach circuit board. Do you know anything about this, or should I just buy a new tach.
If the tach has a place noted for a 6 or 8 then you might want to put a temporary jump wire over the 8 portion to see if things change. Otherwise it might be a bad tach. Check your connections under the hood as well as the tach filter on the fire wall. I do not know anything about adding components to fix it. I would just replace the tach if it came to that.
Do you know or anyone on here know where I can get the actual circuit for an 86 Monte LS "With gauges" the ones on ebay are only for Dummy lights.... My board is toast!
Check the other codes as well as the TPS Throttle Position Sensor code will trigger a VSS as well. I have a video on the codes th-cam.com/video/ipcnN_wAwv4/w-d-xo.html as well as how to replace the TPS th-cam.com/video/jGEWxVGzdC8/w-d-xo.html
I am going to start doing short 1 min how videos on Instagram @classicgbodygarage please follow me there for more great content when I'm not on TH-cam. Facebook too!
1988 oldsmobile cutlass supreme trying to fix column gear shift rally cluster i have speedometer cable loose but i cant unhook piano wire cable for park revearse nuetral ext in addition behind that is a rattle i want to remove the black plastic panel behind cluster please help
I Know Lots of Older Generation GM Vehicles are VERY SIMULAR IF NOT ALL THE SAME but what Are The Main Differences Between F Bodys from the 80s To GBodys from The 80s???
Justin Jones the only vehicles that are the SAME are ones that share the same platform like A Gbody. But an Fbody is totally different. Unibody vs full frame. Some suspension parts are shared but that's mainly it.
Follow Classic Gbody Garage for the latest project updates! Thanks everyone!
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Classic G-Body Garage im having a similar problem with my 80 calais . the tach reads around 2000 at idle but sounds like 1000 - 1100 . also seems incorrect when in gear. Fuel gauge works oil sensor seems to work and temp gauge does not. Would you recommend i try the repair tips in this video ? And is it fairly obvious how to remove the speedo cable ?
DUde, I know you posted this 4 years ago and I hope you're still reading your comments but I have to say,,,,you're the G body GURU! I have an 86 442 and my deal was the volt meter either not working or when it would warm up and Id smack the dash, it would come up to maybe 9-10 volts but that affected the accuracy of the gas/ temp/ oil gauge. Some days when the voltmeter would read closer to the yellow, the rest of the gauges would be more accurate. I had read that there was a break in the printed circuit board...as long as the tach worked and I knew how much gas was in the car, I never gave it much though. Two weeks ago I pulled the cluster out to oil the speedo cable. Couldnt beleive how easy that cluster came out. I was almost going to buy a different cluster on ebay.....but I thought what if it had the same problem? I couldnt believe how simple a repair this was. I just pulled the cluster out 30 min ago and all 4 of those 5/16th nuts were loose. Tightened them up, put it back together and the voltmeter is up at 14, gas gauge went from quarter to half and the temp gauge is lower than it was...oil pressure is higher. Hell, I almost bought a set of mechanical water and temp gauges but it's a sleeper with a 68 Olds 350. I just dont dig aftermarket gauges, hood scoops, big tires int he back , loud exhaust. THANK YOU for pointed out a simple fix. THose were the easiest instructions to follow that actually worked. Broken printed circuit board my ass. A few loose nuts and it's like new. Definitely have to subscribe to this channel.
I always read and reply to my comments. Yeah some fixes are really simple and glad my video helped you out and saved you some cash from buying another cluster that might have had the same simple issue. Thanks for watching and stay tuned for more vids!
Found a printed article with diagrams as well. Fixed my 87 cutlass salon tach by sokdering a small copoer wire on v8 side!
Magic!!!! 600 rpm idle!!
Before: 1200 rpm and red line upon acceleration
Thanks to you and your Chanel I was able to restore my gauge cluster from way out of whack to perfect in my unadulterated 86 442. Thank you Brian!!
Nice work! Thanks for your support!
Nylon scuff pad on a finger nail file cut to fit to clean the clips for the gages. Same with the printed circuit contacts, be gentle and go two directions. Home improvement stores sell dielectric grease for $4-6 a tube. This keeps the copper contacts free from moisture and turning green. If the tabs of the printed circuit come loose, cut a silver of masking tape to fit. Leave extra hanging off and fold onto its self to make a handle. Clean the back with a "Q-Tip" and apply a 5 minute epoxy and just enough to cover the back. Wipe on a dab with a tooth pick. Fold a hand rag like microfiber and test in advance for fit. It may help to use a flat blade pocket screwdriver for proper tension. Grab plastic wrap or wax paper (Parchment Paper works too) but fold of towel so it can't stick. The tabs, copper traces on the printed circuit boards can be fixed. Gently scape a brake with a razor blade or Ex-Acto knife to clean. Add rosin flux first while heating small soldering iron. There is very little amperage (Amps) so small gauge wire works fine.
As far a gas gages, on GM's and most vehicles they all work the same. One terminal is B+ with key on, center terminal goes to sender inside the tank, the last is ground. Have a test light? Hook it to B+ after testing and identifying other terminals and with hooked to power, touch last terminal, bulb should light.
Look at Brothers Truck video for fuel gauge only repair as GM used the same system on cars and trucks for decades. 0-90 ohms or resistance is the senders job to vary resistance to the gauge.
To make it simple, like two nails with wire wound counter-clockwise and the other is wound clockwise. It become a push-pull on the needle.
Best of luck.
DK, ASE master tech since 78.
Thanks for taking the time to watch my video and also for posting such a detailed comment to help everyone out including myself!
The best way to clean the contacts on a printed circuit board like this, is with a regular old pencil eraser.
@@mostlypeacefulmisterputin VINEGAR is the best way with a Qtip. You do not want any forceful cleaning as these things are more fragile than glass.
@@ClassicGBodyGarage white vinegar mixed with water??
Brian, Gene here. Thanks again for posting this video! I finally got around to getting this job done yesterday on my 79 blue Calais. I watched it several times in the past and again yesterday before I started. I worked it all just like you had in your video, with only 2 minor changes. One was, before re-setting each bulb back into their socket I applied a very small dab of bulb grease. Second, since my tach was NOS when I installed it 12 years ago the prong connector was still in good enough condition to keep. I took a BIG chance and just bent the metal jumper a slight bit so it had more of a curve, cleaned everything and re-installed it.
The only real issue I came up against was the (black) bulb socket for the upper left side of the tack was stuck due to melting the casing. I could not hand loosen it, so since it was about the only one that was working I just left it, rather than risking ripping the printed circuit board (which was also NOS when I installed it 12 years ago).
A total success, all lights work and the tach is no longer giving me a false reading, gauges are perfect too.
MUCH APPRECIATED!
Gene Miller
I have an inherited '85 Cutlass with the Rallye Gauges. The gauges have quit working one by one since I've had the car. Now I know most likely why. Recently, the alternator stopped charging and the charge lamp no longer works at all. Other indicator lamps are normal. Getting into the gauge cluster just to change a bulb seemed daunting. After watching this video it doesn't look so bad. While at it, will also attempt a quick fix for the gauges. Many thanks.
Just did this with my cluster on our 85 Cutlass Supreme. Worked Great! Thanks Brian!
I just tried to repair my 79 H/O cluster and I had everything working, replaced the lights with leds, makes is much
better. I did ALL the tips suggested from adding tension to all the contacts to making sure the light sockets were freshly bent to work with the new leds.
Sadly the tach which WAS working correctly has now lost it's mind and one minuet it's fine and the next it's at zero.
As much as I hate to have to take it out again, I may resort to the soldering tip to eliminate the original plastic red clip.
Can't thank the author enough for guiding me/us through this repair. It gave me confidence going in that I can do this.
Thumbs up all the way.....
Yeah it sounds like you need to get rid of the red clip. Glad my video helped you out.
I really appreciate your how to step by step instructions that I can understand. My son is definitely going to appreciate your help in the restoration of his 3rd generation 80. You are the g body master! Thank you!!
Awesome! Thank you!
EXCELLENT! I used this video to fix my tach, also soldered a broken point on the printed gauge circuit.
Never would have attempted this without this video....
Thanks so much for this video! Today was the first time I ever took the dash down to changing out the bulbs. I was also able to ADJ my tech by bending the little metal clips down more. This video was a tremendous help. Thanks again!
Glad it helped and thanks for watching.
Thank you for sharing this! I have a 1984 Hurst/Olds and my cluster is acting weird. I will follow all of your steps and hope this work! thank you again!
DUDE!!! You are a life saver I followed exactly what you said in the video and my gauge cluster is fully fuctioning!! Thank you!!!!
Finally got the Olds 403 in my 1986 Z/28 and holy does it ever get up and go, 403 has a boat load of torque roast the tires no problem. Can't wait for Monday get insurance and go Mustang hunting!
This video is perfect 👌. Told me everything i needed to know before and while doing this little project. Thank you!
Brian; Thanks for the video on this! It was perfect timing for the 79 Hurst T-top car I frame off restored and is nearing completion. I ended up going through both my T-top cars gauges and its made a big difference. Thanks again. Steve
Very nice video I just bought a 83 El Camino that was sitting for 4 plus years to make a very long story short rebuilt or replace everything on the car that wears i noticed my Tach isn't accurate and all other gauges pretty much inop and it has a new fuel send unit oil and temp so a cluster we will be rebuilding thanks again Great Video
Sounds great!
Nice job Brian👍🏾
Thanks 👍
Thanks a ton man! I picked up an 85 cutty with rally gauges yesterday and all my gauges pretty much act like yours. Gonna tackle this over the weekend.
+Chuck Norris Excellent!
This has to be one of the best DIY videos on youtube! Kudos to you man. Awesome video. Very clear.
Glad my video helped you out and thanks for the awesome compliment. I do what I can to KEEP THOSE GBODYS ROLLIN.
nice. I wish u had a video like this for the buick regal rally gauges conversion.
I bought LED lights to replace the incandescent bulbs in the cluster. I have the same TACH and oil pressure gauge problem. The incandescent lamps are hard to see even at night so the LED lights should take care of that, they have a blue tint to them. I assume the gauge cluster is the same or close to it on the El Camino's. Great info, thanks a bunch.
Not the same but similar to the Chevy clusters.
@@ClassicGBodyGarage Thank you!
Thank you for making this! Really helpful and will be doing it on my 79 monte cluster.
TitoInThe206 Monte are slightly different but you will see once you have it apart. Thanks for watching.
"Rear defrogger, I mean defogger..." that brought back memories.
Nice video Man
Thank You
Now I don’t need to get a Entellitronix or Dakota digital dash
Don’t want to if I don’t need too🤷🏽♂️
Barely got my first vehicle and its an 85 cutlass salon. Really good looking car just got it running after 10 years but I'm having same problems with gauges. Really good video and really helpful. You wouldn't happen to have any extra parts really really need a center console!??? Thank you!
Great step by step video. Keep them coming.
Very good video ! Super helpful
Glad it was helpful!
Just bought a rally cluster for my 84 cutlass, they had a wire soldered across both v6 and v8 tach spots hopefully they didnt mess it up haven't got to test it yet
This video just saved me so much time!!! Thank you so much. One Question though, what's the loose plug sitting behind the temp sensor on the olds motor.
A loose sensor on the motor?
Gonna try this . Turn signal bulbs work . Speed and rpm gauges work . No lights , oil amps or temp
Did it work?
@@ClassicGBodyGarage yes sir everything but the faulty temp gauge ! But still no cluster lights . Printed circuit broke looks good jumped at the harness plug in and all the lights work together . Posted a comment below my other comment. I’m lost at this point
Thanks for the info great help for my new gauges for my 1985 Cutlass
Did all this ! All my gauges but the temp works now . Temp constantly reads past hot ! But my lights still aren’t working . When I tested them with 12v they all work . Check engine , battery and seat belt comes on but no lights . Even took the light switch out and cleaned it up
the little foil on the back board might be broken or the sensor is bad under the hood
@@ClassicGBodyGarage okay I’m sending a update to the comment !
@@ClassicGBodyGarage Alright Update On My Cluster . None Of My Lights Are Working ! I’ve Cleaned All Connections, Tightened The Loose Screws , Bent The Socket Connection Pins Also Put Tension Back On The Harness Plug Pins . Checked Fuse . My Check Engine Light, Battery And Seat Belt Light Comes On . Replaced Dimmer And Headlight Switch And Still Nothing . I’ve Used 12v To The Cluster Where The Harness Plugs In And All The Lights Worked At Once . Checked And Cleaned Ground Under Dash And Still No Lights When I Put It In !
What piece did you use to hook up to the battery to test the bulbs ?
I used washers worked perfectly
Thanks for the great video. I replaced my whole printed circuit cause it was delaminating. I have a question what would cause the right turn signal to stay on with the running lights on? Turn signal still works.
you have a burned out bulb, even a side marker bulb would do that.
Really top notch video thanks! I don't even have a gbody but i love your tips some of them apply to my 80TA (Has a 403)
did the fuse and new sensors... also check all light bulbs and the only one that light up are 3 on the side of the gauges no other ones light up.. all bulbs are functual.. and don't know if this was already done by previous owner, but I'm missing the yellow wire on the plug in behind the cluster. I need the wiring configuration to make sure their all in the right port.
Excellent video, just subscribed....!
"Rear defrogger"
YOU LEAVE MY ATARI ALONE SIR
Do you have a video on rebuilding the carburetor??
Tach and speedo is good. So is the volt meter. Everything else is completely dead. No water temp, no fuel (stays on empty), and no oil. Engine was swapped out at some point so who knows. Everything else is working so I’m afraid to take it apart for something else to go wrong. Blinkers, etc also working perfectly. Biggest concern is fuel and temp how can I troubleshoot otherwise ?
Locate the sensors and make sure they are hooked up.
Thank you for the informative video. Just about to pull the cluster from my '79 H/O to get the tac working and replace the bulbs. My trip odo is not working, any ideas on that?What do you think of using the brighter 168 bulbs for all applications (maybe not for indicator lights) Will they harm the dash parts over time, in that I don't drive all that much at night?
I just bought a 1984 Monte Carlo SS. A few dash lights are out, The temperature gauge does not work, and the tachometer is not reading correctly. I will pull the gauge cluster apart, and follow your info on how to make things work again. Will let you know how I do. Thanks.
Sounds good.
Very good video. Very informational. Thank You!! :D
Excellent Video!
Tx Brian excellent video.
Any suggestion on cleaning that little bit of surface rust off of the gauge faces without erasing the printing?
Not really, too delicate
That was a really good video, thanks
Hey brian, I just took my granny cluster out to change some bulbs and I put it back in and now my speedo needle is jumping all over , it use to jump a little bit under 30km then it would be fine but now since I took it out and put it back in it's going crazy , it also makes a ticking noise. any ideas on how to fix it?
Can you do a monte Carlo dash cluster swap to a malibu with standard uncool gauges
Just replied to your comment in my other video.
so how do you get the speedo cable off? and back on? great video
Clip on back side of cluster.
I noticed the type of bulb I seen them at lows can you use an led bulb? Most of the bulbs are 12V 5watt
What's a good LED Light Kit to buy for 87 El Camino Gauge Cluster. Thanks for your help and time.
The buick 231ci had issues with a leaky intake manifold gasket causing it to run hot.
DAMN WELL EXPLAINED SIR
So i've got a 1984 Monte carlo with the 3.8 v6. My dash gauges dont have the little orange meters, just red lights in the center when the light comes on for battery, temperature or oil... is there a way to get another gauge for the dash with the orange meters? the current one doesn't have numbers for oil pressure or temperature and theres no rpm gauge, no tachometer just an orange meter for the gas gauge and mph gauge. Do i need to get a side cluster with new gauges and just have it wired to ground wires? Or should i get another gauge cluster for the dashboard? I'm also looking into removing the "air pollution pump" and all its bs connections. Live in Cleveland, cars past 1994 dont need an echeck. Wondering if theres any videos or advice for that? Looking into a performance 2 bbl carb.. holley.. any help would be appreciated. Thanks Brian love the channel, been watching since 2017.
You need to find yourself the entire gauge housing assembly. You then need gauge type oil and temp sensors and also need to re-pin the main plug that feeds the gauge cluster. The swap is similar to my Cutlass gauge cluster swap video on my channel I reference in this video.
Nice video. Wish I knew to fix them years ago.
Did you find anything about the speedometer cable?
Larry Davis Speedo cable was junk so I replaced it.
Thanks for the very informative video. Have you tried using a copper paste/paint to repair the circuit board? (I've think I've seen a show where some one masked off the missing circuit and painted it on) And do you ever put a conductive grease on the connections or recommend it?
Have never seen or heard of that. Interesting.
my supreme has a cluster that does not have the TAC in it. but I have a parts car cutlass salon that does. can I change that cluster to my supreme with no problem?
Had anyone ever had a problem with a ‘gauges’ fuse blowing and causing the whole ‘ignition’ system to go out? I think I finally fixed my issue, but it took me a lot of trouble shooting. Just want to know if this is a common thing that happens when gauges fuse blows. Great video btw 🤙
the light on my dashboard and AC display don't light up which wire is the one for those? ?
Francisco Sandoval I got the same problem
What size are the light sockets in the granny pack? And is there a difference between the green,black, and blue. Light sockets?
+xLSxHeavyD No difference in the color of the sockets. The bulbs are 194s
Found the circuit board at OPGI.com, but now I have only one side of the board operational and my choke light is not coming on.... thoughts?
Update: got all lights on on Bench check but when installed the two lights (upper and lower of speedometer will not turn on...🤔🤔🤔😪
Great Video! thank you
Do you know a place where I can get the spring for the park reverse drive in the Gauges?? The wire and spring is stressed
Hardware store might have something that will work.
appreciate couple of my buds subscribed just wanted to knw u knw any good websites for speedometer mine was busted when I bought it. Thanx in advanced
+Carlos Perez Thanks for the subscribe and for watching my videos. I have never had to use a company to fix the speedo itself. I may have an extra I can sell depending on what you have or need. email me. olds7980@yahoo.com
Why does the RPM dial stay up at 500rpm when the key is off and then go to zero when the key is turned on ? thanks
how can i fix my fuel
gauge on my 1983 el camino, its stuck on full
Thanks Brian!
Hey do you unhook the speedometer cable from the cluster to take the cluster out
I'm having this problem on my 86 ss Monte Carlo lol
I want to put in LED lights in my cutlass how many bulbs do I need? And type of bulbs do I need?
Preciate it boss
My clock is broken which is part of the tachometer. How would I repair or replace?
You will need to send your tach/clock to a specialist to repair.
At 21:09 what is that main plug called I need it to connect my wires to it to connect my cluster it’s missing 88 cutlass supreme
Have a 1984 Pontiac Grand Prix thought my gauge cluster was broke sent it out to be repaired they told me everything works on it.So what else can I check and where would I be able to find the gauge cluster electrical connector at?
The connector is behind the cluster. Check fuses, sensors, connections at the cluster etc.
I can't seem to locate the diagram showing Which wires belong to which sensor or light.
Watch my other video on swapping. There is a diagram link in the description. th-cam.com/video/zEdp1lk2uYk/w-d-xo.html
Did everything you said to do and my apm are still the same. What should I do next
Check connections going to the distributor.
My dash and ac light won't work
Sometimes it come on like after 8 times after pulling it in and out , can u show me where it might be grounded too ?
How's the Malibu can you make a video of any time soon
You think I can get those factory gauges to work with an LS engine?
If the computer is programmed to do so
Would this process be the same for a 1979 El Cabalero?
My 87 el camino has a plain blank tachometer. Can i replace it with original working tachometer & have it work or do i have do some wiring? Thanks
You need to add wiring.
Classic G-Body Garage from the distributor?
Just curious. Is there any way to get the Tach to stay on "0" when the power is off? Thanks.
I got an 87 442 few years back with a bad 307 so swapped to an olds 350 recently removed cluster and noticed I don't have that red clip for the tach, there is a jumper but goes across all three solder points, from the 6 on top across the center and across the bottom, is this Ok? Should I cut it?
If it works fine then leave it.
Would you know what the single black wire behind the cluster is for or where it connects?
@@jeffjerome9880 clips to the metal end of the speedo cable
How do you loosin up speedometer to feed thru
You undo the speedo cable from under the hood and under the car.
Brian, I pulled the tach out of the dash, and it doesn't have the little red part that is in your video. Is it because my 84 Monte Carlo SS is a V-8, and possibly all SS Monte Carlos came with V-8 engines. At idle the tach is reading about 1700 rpm. I was told that there is a bad resister, and that you can splice one into a chip in the tach circuit board. Do you know anything about this, or should I just buy a new tach.
If the tach has a place noted for a 6 or 8 then you might want to put a temporary jump wire over the 8 portion to see if things change. Otherwise it might be a bad tach. Check your connections under the hood as well as the tach filter on the fire wall. I do not know anything about adding components to fix it. I would just replace the tach if it came to that.
Guy Massaro
Monte ss came only with the 305 ho motor...
Do you know or anyone on here know where I can get the actual circuit for an 86 Monte LS "With gauges" the ones on ebay are only for Dummy lights....
My board is toast!
Try Gbodyparts or Dixie Restoration or Mikes Montes.
is this the same for a 86 monte carlo as well?
Similar concept.
How can you repair the copper at the back a piece ripped off. Can you solder it?
You can solder it carefully.
my check engine light came on when checked with OBD 1 gave code for a VSS Vehicle Speed Sensor. Is it in the Transmission or Instrument Gauge cluster?
Check the other codes as well as the TPS Throttle Position Sensor code will trigger a VSS as well. I have a video on the codes th-cam.com/video/ipcnN_wAwv4/w-d-xo.html as well as how to replace the TPS th-cam.com/video/jGEWxVGzdC8/w-d-xo.html
Can you show how to disconnect speedometer cable, my speedometer is jumping around and I can't get my hand behind dash to unhook it.
I am going to start doing short 1 min how videos on Instagram @classicgbodygarage please follow me there for more great content when I'm not on TH-cam. Facebook too!
how did you take off the plastic glass
my fuel gauge still moves.. its not accurate but it'll move in different spots.. you think the gauges are the problem? or the float in the tank?
+Jeremy Stone did you take the steps in my video to fix it? If you did then it could be the sending unit. The gauge usually isn't the issue.
Not yet I'm doing it this weekend.. I'll keep you updated
This man is a genius 👍💪 I can watch his content and learn from him🫡
1988 oldsmobile cutlass supreme trying to fix column gear shift rally cluster i have speedometer cable loose but i cant unhook piano wire cable for park revearse nuetral ext in addition behind that is a rattle i want to remove the black plastic panel behind cluster please help
The piano wire hooks to the steering column barrel. You have to remove the panel under the column.
So if i have the rally pack cluster and not the granny cluster i will need the big oil pressure sensor
Yes
I Know Lots of Older Generation GM Vehicles are VERY SIMULAR IF NOT ALL THE SAME but what Are The Main Differences Between F Bodys from the 80s To GBodys from The 80s???
Justin Jones the only vehicles that are the SAME are ones that share the same platform like A Gbody. But an Fbody is totally different. Unibody vs full frame. Some suspension parts are shared but that's mainly it.