Both visually and your words indicate that you are a practical craftsman, and it is an excellent demonstration of making a nut. I had the same problem with set screws in securing the cutting iron . Sounds good but the bottom line is that there is no compensation for a good joint for fitting the cutter into. Thank you
Great so I need a wooden screw, and a wooden nut so I can make a wooden nut. Might need a chicken so I can have an egg to hatch so I can have a chicken.
Yes. The threaded nut I'm starting with here can be anything matching the pitch you want to cut. For instance, a few pointed dowels, or the threaded section can be a metal screw and nut connected to the wooden section to cut the threads, or you can cast a nut from epoxy. . .
Your minor diameter on your Tap is too small.. It is allowing too much movement, instead of cutting the threads accurately.. No problem.. Just a new tap..
The threads are still being cut relatively accurately, just loose. Much like on a lathes lead screw, if you have backlash you can take that out when you start cutting and always cut in the same direction. If this were metal or plastic, I'd agree. However, in wood you need that extra space in the threads to accommodate expansion/contraction. You take up the slack if needed by adjusting the screw size incrementally. The only times I've had issues with the wooden screws in the past 17 years has been when I've tried to dial in tolerances the same way I would on the metal lathe in brass or steel.
@@TheCmdevans Understood. I did some experiments several years ago on expansion/retraction.. If you seal coat the board, especially the end grain, you can almost eliminate "Moisture Changes". Anything going outside for me, expected to last, stays out of the direct sunlight and gets a good coating on all 6 sides.. Some Soak the Dowel in Oil before cutting threads. I would bet, sealing the end grain with Epoxy after that, there would be Zeo moisture effect.. Anyway. It just looked like with the amount you moved the cutter, you were not getting the effect at the same rate. Figured it was the slack. That is something else I want to play with.. Making Multistart threads, and using a square thread profile, very lightly chamfered to see the effect on the backlash.. The new linear ball screws come very close to eliminating it. I think the CNC's do it by Spring loading their Screws, but, I am not certain.. Interesting concept though.. If they dealt with backlash, seems that would be entirely inaccurate, but, backlash can be calculated and compensated for too, so, not sure how that works. Not in the Machinist world. Thanks for the reply.. Keep up the good work..
The screw did come first. Luckily, I've got close to 20 years of screws and prototypes of various iterations to use on my shop. If you are starting out from scratch, carving the screw is actually pretty easy, make a "nut" with pointed dowels, then use the end of the carved screw to make a true nut. alternately, instead of carving a screw, just use a spiral saw kerf and some plate steel mounted on a block in place of a screw.
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Both visually and your words indicate that you are a practical craftsman, and it is an excellent demonstration of making a nut. I had the same problem with set screws in securing the cutting iron . Sounds good but the bottom line is that there is no compensation for a good joint for fitting the cutter into. Thank you
Try to weld and machine a true guide the size of the hole, on the front of your big metal tap, that should give you a perfect straight start.
Great so I need a wooden screw, and a wooden nut so I can make a wooden nut.
Might need a chicken so I can have an egg to hatch so I can have a chicken.
Thank you!
Great job please some how-to videos with sizes.
Thanks. I'm planning on a vise build video soonish.
@@TheCmdevans Great!
Excelente!!!
But you're already starting with a threaded nut...?
Yes. The threaded nut I'm starting with here can be anything matching the pitch you want to cut. For instance, a few pointed dowels, or the threaded section can be a metal screw and nut connected to the wooden section to cut the threads, or you can cast a nut from epoxy. . .
@@TheCmdevans I see, thanks for responding...
I was hoping for full circle... And how to make the nut.
Cool video buddy!
Your minor diameter on your Tap is too small.. It is allowing too much movement, instead of cutting the threads accurately.. No problem.. Just a new tap..
The threads are still being cut relatively accurately, just loose. Much like on a lathes lead screw, if you have backlash you can take that out when you start cutting and always cut in the same direction.
If this were metal or plastic, I'd agree. However, in wood you need that extra space in the threads to accommodate expansion/contraction. You take up the slack if needed by adjusting the screw size incrementally. The only times I've had issues with the wooden screws in the past 17 years has been when I've tried to dial in tolerances the same way I would on the metal lathe in brass or steel.
@@TheCmdevans Understood. I did some experiments several years ago on expansion/retraction.. If you seal coat the board, especially the end grain, you can almost eliminate "Moisture Changes".
Anything going outside for me, expected to last, stays out of the direct sunlight and gets a good coating on all 6 sides.. Some Soak the Dowel in Oil before cutting threads. I would bet, sealing the end grain with Epoxy after that, there would be Zeo moisture effect.. Anyway.
It just looked like with the amount you moved the cutter, you were not getting the effect at the same rate. Figured it was the slack.
That is something else I want to play with.. Making Multistart threads, and using a square thread profile, very lightly chamfered to see the effect on the backlash.. The new linear ball screws come very close to eliminating it. I think the CNC's do it by Spring loading their Screws, but, I am not certain.. Interesting concept though.. If they dealt with backlash, seems that would be entirely inaccurate, but, backlash can be calculated and compensated for too, so, not sure how that works. Not in the Machinist world. Thanks for the reply.. Keep up the good work..
But the screw came first? John
The screw did come first. Luckily, I've got close to 20 years of screws and prototypes of various iterations to use on my shop. If you are starting out from scratch, carving the screw is actually pretty easy, make a "nut" with pointed dowels, then use the end of the carved screw to make a true nut.
alternately, instead of carving a screw, just use a spiral saw kerf and some plate steel mounted on a block in place of a screw.
re: screw came first
Actually, he already had a screw and a nut and created a second nut.
The blurry video gave me a headache, otherwise it was a good demonstration.