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The threads are still being cut relatively accurately, just loose. Much like on a lathes lead screw, if you have backlash you can take that out when you start cutting and always cut in the same direction. If this were metal or plastic, I'd agree. However, in wood you need that extra space in the threads to accommodate expansion/contraction. You take up the slack if needed by adjusting the screw size incrementally. The only times I've had issues with the wooden screws in the past 17 years has been when I've tried to dial in tolerances the same way I would on the metal lathe in brass or steel.

@@TheCmdevans Understood. I did some experiments several years ago on expansion/retraction.. If you seal coat the board, especially the end grain, you can almost eliminate "Moisture Changes". Anything going outside for me, expected to last, stays out of the direct sunlight and gets a good coating on all 6 sides.. Some Soak the Dowel in Oil before cutting threads. I would bet, sealing the end grain with Epoxy after that, there would be Zeo moisture effect.. Anyway. It just looked like with the amount you moved the cutter, you were not getting the effect at the same rate. Figured it was the slack. That is something else I want to play with.. Making Multistart threads, and using a square thread profile, very lightly chamfered to see the effect on the backlash.. The new linear ball screws come very close to eliminating it. I think the CNC's do it by Spring loading their Screws, but, I am not certain.. Interesting concept though.. If they dealt with backlash, seems that would be entirely inaccurate, but, backlash can be calculated and compensated for too, so, not sure how that works. Not in the Machinist world. Thanks for the reply.. Keep up the good work..

The screw did come first. Luckily, I've got close to 20 years of screws and prototypes of various iterations to use on my shop. If you are starting out from scratch, carving the screw is actually pretty easy, make a "nut" with pointed dowels, then use the end of the carved screw to make a true nut. alternately, instead of carving a screw, just use a spiral saw kerf and some plate steel mounted on a block in place of a screw.

re: screw came first Actually, he already had a screw and a nut and created a second nut.

Depends on leg thickness. This one will hold 200-300 pounds at least.

The height x 1.414

a bit more detail, do you remember triangles and math? a^2+b^2=c^2 a=height, b=distance on floor, c=lumber length we use the center of the lumber for the joint, so a=b hence we get a^2+a^2=c^2 or added up 2*a^2=c^2 which can be written as sqrt(2)*a=c or approx 1.414*height=length 🍻

Center cut is halfway through. 45° angle works, but scribing the angle off the floor is best. Small variations in your center joint can result in a a degree or two difference.

Yes. The threaded nut I'm starting with here can be anything matching the pitch you want to cut. For instance, a few pointed dowels, or the threaded section can be a metal screw and nut connected to the wooden section to cut the threads, or you can cast a nut from epoxy. . .

@@TheCmdevans I see, thanks for responding... I was hoping for full circle... And how to make the nut. Cool video buddy!

Thanks. I'm planning on a vise build video soonish.

@@TheCmdevans Great!

It will if you use large enough legs. I'd imagine 3" Legs or larger would be needed for a cement top. It would depend on top thickness as well, but I stacked 700# or more of lumber on the last one I built while I moved things around in the shop.

Cutting the joint or cutting top and bottom angles?

@@TheCmdevans the top and bottom angles, it’s okay I slowly worked it out after many failed attempts lol Laid the table saw on a 45 and fed the wood through on a 45 aswell. Thanks for the vid :)

@@haydendark7917 Correct values are 45° and 35,7°

I don't see why it couldn't be. You'd have to play around with the geometry a little, but off the top of my head I don't see anything that would prevent that from working. I'd recommend doing a scale model or two to work out the geometry and assembly kinks before going full sized.

partial build video: th-cam.com/video/VBuQwB9fi40/w-d-xo.html I've been slowly getting a full build video together. I'm about 75% done with it, but I've got a lot of editing to do yet. Should have one up by mid February hopefully.

I typically cut the end angles with a panel saw. Then, if they need cleaned up or adjusted I use a hand plane or wide chisel to adjust the angle.

I'll put that in the full build video in a week or so. It's a little tricky because of the geometry involved, and I want to make sure I explain it correctly.

@@TheCmdevans Great. Thanks. I'm excited to give it a try.

Hello great video. I also will like to know the answer to this question

I could do that. It'll take me a little bit to get one ready to film, but I'll plan on doing a short video on building the base, including cutting the angles.

@@TheCmdevans That would be awesome thanks

Thanks. The legs are 3" x 3". I used cherry lumber for these, two pieces 1.5" x 3" glued together. I used slightly oversized lumber then jointed and planed it square after gluing. You can make the legs any size, you just need to make sure that the legs are square.

Thanks! I couldn't tell you exactly what the angle is. I mark the angle directly from the floor and the table top. I just use a pair of sharp dividers and set it to about 1.5". I'll measure the angle on the next one I build and post it.

I would also like to know the angle!

Thanks. I appreciate the criticism. I am still attempting to get better at doing video and taking pictures/video throughout entire projects. I agree entirely with your assessment of the video. The editing process is also something I need to get better with. When to cut a clip short, when to add in a different part of the project, how to speed up video on long processes, etc. Hopefully I'll improve and put out a few better videos in the near future.

@@TheCmdevans thanks for responding your talent is obvious. Your just a better woodworker than vidographer. I will keep watching though.

I agree , I was waiting for it to go beyond the dovetails.