I have a 2018 f150 2.7 With 259000 miles alternator was the biggest issue I had at 150000. Now I need new Cats. It has been the best vehicle I have ever had
I also have a 2018 F150 2.7L. Mine only has 99K on it as of this post. Its been nothing but a proper work horse for me. I'm in my 60's (not to sound morbid) but this could be the last truck I ever have to buy. If past performance is any indicator, I will be to old to drive anymore before this truck needs replacing.
@@bryanharveylabro6112 Sorry for the necro, and I know I wasn’t the intended person for the comment, but I have a 2018 2.7 with 106k miles. I have/had some issues with shifting, but my dealer ran the current TSB for the CDF drum and it helped. Also had the valve body replaced at the same time covered under warranty, and that seemed to help as well. I still have some thunky funky shifts, but I chock that up to the finicky 10 speed.
Info correction here regarding the timing chains between the two generation: Both 1st and 2nd generations of the 2.7 they both have ALWAYS used two timing chains, one for each bank. The 2.7 is not known for timing chain rattle or issues whatsoever!
My Grandson has a 2018 2.7 That Rattles like Crazy at start up. Dealer Say's it's "N O R M A L"????? Comical how they use that "EXCUSE" All the Time. Just Hilarious!!!
Fresh oil every 5k; tranny flush transfer case, rear diff fluid change and new spark plugs every 30k; coolant flush every 50k; front differential fluid change every 50k. Aiming for 300k miles out of it 🤘🏻
No issues out of the transmission? I just had to get my 10 speed over hauled last week. New Cdf drum and valve body rebuild . The engine is running great though. Love the 2.7
I just got a 24 f150 stx crew cab 2.7l and i love it, couldn't believe how smooth and quiet it is and if you get after it she rips very impressed so far.
Just got a 2023 STX 2.7L 4x4. Did lots of research and your vidoes were a big part. Really impressed with this engine and truck overall. Very pleased with it coming from a 2015 Ram 5.7L (which was an amazing truck for me).
The compacted graphite iron block and crazy cast aluminum block truss that locks all the main caps and webs together on the 2.7L is very impressive. It would be cool to swap one of these into a classic Ford Ranger.
...in addition to port injection helping reduce intake valve buildup, the PCV system has a built in oil separator in the valve cover to reduce 'oily' vapours into the intake manifold.
I own a 2017 F150 with the 2.7 Ecoboost. Truck has around 126k miles, and it has not given us any issues that affect daily driving. However, my wife is the primary driver, and she complained to me how much her exhaust seems be visible when the truck idles in the morning. I’m pretty handy with engines for a layman, so I checked it out, and she’s right. We live in Montana, so seeing your exhaust on a cold morning is common. But her truck had significantly more than the neighbors or another vehicle idling. So I started to actually do some research, and these engines have the exhaust manifold cast as one piece as part of the cylinder head. Therefore, there are coolant passages in the exhaust manifold that help control the exhaust gas temperature into the turbochargers. I’m afraid we have developed a small crack between the coolant and exhaust passages, and are burning a small amount of coolant out the exhaust. It’s not too bad yet, but I’ve read a couple forum horror stories, and as the problem progresses it can be borderline catastrophic. And since the exhaust manifold is the cylinder head, replacing them is basically a complete engine tear down.
@@GettysGarage It has been losing coolant at a slow rate. Haven’t found any external leaks, and there are no indications of a head gasket issue. So the cracked exhaust manifold is what I was leaning towards. It just seemed like something extra that could happen with this particular engine that you wouldn’t need to worry about with a traditional engine head/exhaust manifold design.
Turbo engines have more condensation on startup over N/A engines, so it will smoke more. Very few head failures on these engines. I would look into the turbo coolant line.
I have a 2016 2.7 and have the same issue. I bought it with 150k and it smoked worse before changing out the oil twice with Valvoline Advance High Mileage. I didn't notice any coolant loss on mine but another problem that could be the culprit is the driver's side turbo feed oil line. There's a TSB on that.
My 2018 F-150 RCSB 2.7L FX4 has 72K miles and never had a problem, MPG average: 21.5 At 70K, I downloaded a 93 Octane Performance Tune and it's even quicker than it was. WOT on dry asphalt, 3rd gear chirps/bark locked rear 285/45/22 Michelins every time.
I have the first gen and I put plus in it and it runs much better and don't have to worry about carbon build up as much, only problem is the turbo actuator rattles which they fixed on the newer ones. Also the plastic oil pan leaks, the old oil pans did not have gaskets and was just a sealant..
I have a 2021 I picked up back in November with 72k on it. I am just about to hit 80k. My first tuck, been more of an SUV guy. Absolutely no complaints so far.
I bet you didn't even know what a wet oil pump belt was before ford made this switch. Maybe go work for ford since you know more than the engineers that designed the most reliable engine they have
@jamesandrews145 Engineers are not infallible grniuses. I would argue that engineers and architects should work 4 years in the field (like residency for MDs) before they are granted a license. This would provide practical hands-on experience and a different perspective on design where future serviceability is considered. If you've ever worked on a car, you would understand what I'm saying.
The oil pan issue is because the factory didn't seal them correctly, and 90% of the techs can't either. I never had any of the oil pan I resealed come back.
"I'm a good ol 5000 miles kind of guy". You are wise beyond your years young man. I'm currently looking hard for my first brand new truck since 1992. My son has a 2020 XLT with the 5.0. I really like the truck. I've primarily owned Chevy/GM most of my life, but right now the Fords really have my attention. It's been pretty hard to find an XLT optioned out like I want AND have the 5.0 that is my desired engine package. I have to admit when I've seen the trucks with the 2.7 v6 I've been turning my nose up at them. However watching your video's has opened my mind to possibly including this as an option for an engine. My new truck will be a daily driver and mostly highway driving so fuel economy is always desirable - right? LOL. Thanks for your insight.
I average around 60,000 miles a year in my industry and have miled out around 4 F150s. I just a bought another 2.7L, the 5.0 is my close second choice, the 3.5L don’t exist to me. I’ve put hundreds of thousands miles on all 3
@@losungen9862 If I was putting that kind of mileage on a newer F150, I would avoid the 2.7 and 5.0 unless you plan on having that oil pump belt changed almost every year. Guys insist they're fine but Ford just finally admitted the 1.0 EB with the same belt driven oil pump has issues because of that belt. The debris with the rubber belt will clog the oil pickup screen if the belt doesn't fail.
I have test drove a 3.5 power boost, I was very impressed with it, but my concern is life down the road I feel that this engine will get very expensive fast. So, I'M thinking about a ford f-150 STX with the 2.7l V6 EcoBoost. Your videos have helped me. Thanks for your videos. Note: AMSOIL IS the best oil for the EcoBoost engines.
I don't feel like the variable displacement oil pump is necessarily the biggest issue with that. The part of that that I really don't like is the fact they changed the oil pump chain for a wet belt.
Would you still prefer the 5.0 even with the cylinder deactivation. I'm looking for a 4X4 1/2 ton pickup and reliability is tops. 3.5? 2.7? Ram, Chevy, etc.
Thanks for the post.. on the side note, you forgot to mention the wet belt for the oil pump that will eventually clog up the oil pump and blow the engine..
The reason for making camshafts etc hollow is to lower the reciprocating mass. I t has little to do with improving power but making the components lighter to improve (increase) responsiveness.
Excellent video. I'm frustrated with Ford's calibration of their variable oil pump (including the new 7.3L gas motor) - that is my only real concern with the latest Ford engines. I think this, like the Chevy 5.3L/6.2L V8s or the 5.7L HEMI, can be great motors if you stay on top of powertrain maintenance and use high quality oils. I also love the 5.0L Ford and 3.0L Duramax GMC/Chevy at the moment for the same reasons - solid engine choices if you can stay on top of maintenance. I'm not so sure about the new Hurricane I-6 from Stellantis (CDJR) in the new Ram trucks. Their latest engines designs have been solid but I'm a skeptic. Can't wait for a similar video on the controversial new turbocharged V6 Toyota Tundra. That one has upset a lot of Toyota enthusiasts because it replaced an excellent 5.7L V8 engine. I've read great reviews of trucks featuring that engine, but I'm not sure it's going to satisfy some of the people who buy Toyotas for longevity or fuel efficiency. Toyota normally thinks things through pretty well.
A variable oil pump is "better" because it keeps the oil pressure at a constant psi with different temperatures of the oil viscosity and rpm unlike a 1 stage oil pump were psi can hike up to 70psi or higher. When I had an '18 Colorado with the v6, it had a variable oil pump and the oil pressure was at a constant 52 psi
I love my 2022 Ford F-150 XLT Super Cab 4x4 with the 2.7 liter EcoBoost V6. There seems to be quite a few advantages to getting the "2nd Generation" 2.7 liter EcoBoost V6. The 10r80 ten speed automatic transmission is leaps ahead of the older six speed automatic. I even like the stock programming of my 2022 10r80 transmission as is does none of the skip-shifting BS that the same 10r80 ten speed transmission did in my previous 2020 Ford Ranger. I did however "tune" my Ford Ranger via a Livernois Motorsports tune that got rid of that annoying gear skipping. The "dual" fuel injection feature seems beneficial to helping lessen the carbon build-up on the intake valves + intake tract. Also I've not heard of near as many timing chain issues or failures or cam phaser issues on the 2.7 liter EcoBoost V6. There seem to be more of those kinds of issues on the 1st Generation bigger 3.5 liter EcoBoost V6.
I try and tell MoFo's this, but then they act like 6R80 is this pillar of perfect reliability, while 10R80 acts like it's built with plastic gears. The reality is if you like performance then the 10R80 vehicles skeet all over their 6R80 predecessors. My 18 5L/10R80 truck has been 100% reliable, and I've daily driven it for about 2 years on a AML tune, and E85, spinning about 7,200 RPM's which is about 1,200 RPM more than the factory redline. (WTF Ford, is this an average MPG move to appease the EPA losers? Even with the truck manifold this engine breathes fine, and doesn't experience a power drop off until around 7K RPM. The stock 6K redline on the GEN3 5L trucks was ridiculous. I think the GEN4 5L trucks now spin to 7K RPM.?.?) But yes, the 10R80 is a willing and quick to downshift partner. And even being so willing to shift, very rarely does gear hunting become a nuisance. When you hear these car reviewers ridicule it as being the worst transmission in a modern truck, with poor shifting, I'm thinking, "IDK WTF you're talking about, as I feel it's the exact opposite." Before I bought my truck I tested all the other brands other than Nissan in 2020, and I preferred the 10R80 to everyone. It was just more responsive and willing to downshift under power than either Rams ZF 8 speed, or GM's 8L90 or 10L80 trucks. GM's 10L80 might be 99% the same as the 10R80, but GM tunes it so lazy. Even a stock tuned 10R80 will give you 2-3 gear downshifts at 1/8-1/4 throttle. The 19 Denali L87/10L80 truck I tested needed damn near WOT to give you that kind of downshift. GM seems to want to force the engine to lug itself up to speed. Let the gearing in the 10 speed work for you. I found the Rams 8 speed to be kind of "meh." I guess similar to the 10L80. Not bad per say, but nowhere near as willing to downshift as the 10R80, unless you give the truck a lot more throttle. This unwillingness to downshift means you have to drive the other brands harder to achieve the same kind of acceleration, as you have to apply more throttle to command a downshift, where just 1/8 or so throttle in F150 will get you a 2-3 gear downshift, and allow the truck to accelerate briskly without needing to spin a bunch or RPM's. The only time I find gear hunting to be an issue is when climbing a hill, and you're stuck behind someone who's going really slow, and taking 1.5-2 miles (literally) to accelerate up to the speed limit. There is such a hill for me on my way home from work, and people act like when you turn onto this road that goes right into a moderate incline, that it should take 2 minutes, or the entirety of the hill, to accelerate up to 55-60 MPH. It absolutely amazes me how many people act like their 03 Ranger, or modern crossover, or late model Altima needs this whole hill to accelerate from 10-15 MPH once you make the turn, up to 55 MPH. On a scale of 1-10 of hills being easy to hard too climb at worst this hill would be a 5, but probably a 4. If I turn on the road and no ones in front of me, I'll accelerate normally up to 60MPH which may take 6-7 seconds at 1/8 throttle, set my C/C at 60 MPH, and the truck will easily climb the hill in 9th gear at around 1,500 RPM. My slow, underpowered, old 93 S10 had no issue climbing this hill, or getting up to speed on it, but for some reason people have always treated it like they need to accelerate up it at a snails pace, and not reach the speed limit until the top, which again tends to take about 2 minutes to reach, and this slow as hell acceleration will have the 10R80 constantly going back and forth, 7th to 8th, 8th to 7th, 8th to 9th, 9th to 8th. That's the only scenario I've found where I don't enjoy the 10R80. It's not so bad in my 03 Lightning with a 4R100, but it gets pretty aggravating with the 10 speed constantly shifting up and down. As far as the skip shift, it never bothered me. My tuner got rid if it, but if I'd never read about it, or watched the 10 speed gear readout on the dash, I never would have known my truck had it. IDK, maybe it's because I've got more displacement than your 20 Ranger had.?.?
I'd like to know why it's annoying to you that it skip shifts? I think it's a good idea, if you are driving around town, and light on the throttle, skip shifting can reduce wear on the transmission.
@@sherylellingson3538 Well, all your big name tuners want to delete the skip shift. Skip shift has never been anything more than the OEM's looking for a way to eek out every possible decimal of a MPG to improve fuel economy. It's not there to benefit with refinement, or improve reliability. Even back in the day before the OEM's were having to meet unrealistic CAFE laws, you had gas tax laws. Companies like GM would put skipshift in certain manual cars, as GM introduced it in the late 80's, first in the Vettes. When cars started using T56 it became the standard other than with Ford. Viper, Vette, and Fbody cars with T56's all used skipshift to go from 1st to 4th if you shifted before 2K RPM. It was quite annoying. Skipshift eliminators became priority, first mod, kind of mod. Hell it could be dangerous. Sometime you just want to get rolling (especially in traffic) and quickly shift out of 1st, and use 2nd to accelerate with, but if you forgot to hold 1st until the engine went past 2K RPM then the car would block you from 2nd, and you'd be sitting there bumbling around with the shifter in neutral trying to figure out why it won't go to 2nd, before you quickly remember that this car has skipshift. Hell my 19 1SS 1LE still came with that BS. It's way harder to get to, to eliminate than it was on my old Fbody LS1 cars, though so I lived with it on my GEN6. Anyway it was just there to help lower or eliminate the gas tax these V8 cars generally came with. If you wanted to go out and buy a new 01 Lightning or 04 Cobra back in the day, you had a gas tax added to the cost of the vehicle. It was kind of like a destination/delivery tax that they still apply to the vehicle cost. Honestly I can't tell a difference during normal driving with or without the skipshift in my truck. The only way to tell a difference is to look at the gear indicator gauge in the dash, but I have the V8. On a truck with a smaller engine the skipshift might be more noticeable as when driving light enough for the truck to use skipshift, you likely aren't boosting much, so you're probably down on power. This is me speculating, and nothing more, but I've kind of wondered that maybe the reason why some people have issues with their 10R80's is maybe caused by the skipshift. I don't know this, but I've seen far less people complaining about 10R80 issues that are driving trucks with custom tunes where the transmission is tuned to match the engine tune, and the skipshift deactivated. Skipping gears does not result in less wear and tear. The way people traditionally improved automatic transmission reliability (other than regularly replacing the fluid) was to run a large cooler, and also quicken the shifts. A performance valve body doesn't just aid in acceleration from quick/firm shifts, it also helps minimize clutch slippage, which reduces wear, and helps prolong the transmissions lifespan. Modern, more electrically controlled transmissions like the 10R80 are very tuneable (if the OEM doesn't try locking them up) and capable of shifting very quickly and smooth. My truck in normal driving goes very quickly from 1st to 2nd to 3rd, to 4th etc. It doesn't skip gears, but if they are not needed it doesn't spend time in them either. During light acceleration it might spend less than half a second in 2nd/3rd/4th depending on what's needed. Regardless of what engine you have you should get a tune by a reputable tuner for your engine choice. These modern F150 are some of the most rewarding vehicles to tune as they deliver big returns for your investment. A custom tuned 10R80 is much improved over a stock tuned 10R80, just make sure the tuner you use is competent with your platform. In todays era of datalogging you can buy a mail order tune, from a tuner of your choosing that might be 1,500 miles away, but have him put as good a tune on your vehicle as a custom dyno tune. For example I'm in SC, but my tuner's based in Houston, but my tune is on point after 4 datalogs sessions.
Twin turbocharging requires additional components and installation, which can increase the project’s overall cost. To ensure proper function and longevity of the engine, supporting modifications such as upgraded fuel systems, intercoolers, and exhaust systems may be necessary, which can further increase the cost. Also can put additional strain on the engine and increase the potential for damage if not installed and tuned properly. Increase maintenance for Twin turbo can require more complex maintenance and repairs, which can be more costly and time-consuming than standard engine maintenance. Decrease in reliability Twin turbo can increase the potential for engine failures or breakdowns, which can be costly to repair and may decrease the overall reliability of the engine.
Hi Alex. You explain and show pro's & count's sometimes we don't understand the brand decisions. I hope every time ford manufactures offers better engines with good performance and reliability. EXCELENT Video! My best wishes and happy new year! Blessings 😊
Maybe you’ve done it but, you should make a video picking which half ton you would pick for everyday and occasional towing. I have a ram 2500 with the 6.4. I love it when towing but I only really tow a few times in the summer. 32ft travel trailer. Other than that the truck basically sits. I’m thinking about going back to 1/2 ton
Not directly related to this video but to a 3.5 2023 ecoboost but it may apply to this motor also. At low rpm less than 2,000, when load comes on it will boost heavily at 1,500 to 1,700 rpm, if you force a downshift to 9th or 8th gear you see an increase in fuel economy. Ford must know this, why would they boost heavily and get poorer fuel consumption than spinning the motor faster in a lower gear?
Its interesting you mention that because when I towed with the 3.5L the engine was mostly in 10th gear boosting heavily and a couple people mentioned exactly what you said. You would think in tow haul mode the engine would want to keep higher RPM's
I’ve noticed this with my 2019 3.5 pulling my enclosed snowmobile trailer. If I let the truck use all 10 gears I’ll average 8.5 mpg, if I lock out 9-10 I’ll average 10mpg. I’ve personally found 65-68mph is the sweet spot for fuel efficiency while towing with the 3.5. The 5.0 I’ve found is decent up to 75mph while towing after that it likes to drink heavy
@@andrewjoyce3634 I do the same, lock out 9 and 10, pulling a 16' x 7' x 7' tandem axle box trailer with up to 4000# payload it doesn't work hard just burns gas, same load on a flat bed and the mpg goes up about 3 mpg.
@@GettysGarage Probably depends on balance of load etc. The engine requires POWER just to rotate at higher RPM's with increasing kinetic energy wasted (mass of pistons changing directions etc) so a little boost to make same power at lower RPM may actually use less fuel compared to lower engine load but more RPM's/More combustions etc. Getting into lugging territory might be an issue tho. Anyone with a instant MPG gauge should set cruise control at say 70 MPH and note the mpg rate. Then manually hold lower gears and you will see less MPG. Remember same power sent to the rear axle to maintain the same steady speed to push thru the air and other fixed resistance, but faster engine, and other parts = more fuel used
Does it run a wet timing belt instead of a chain. My understanding is this one does not. are there any wet belt turbo motors from Ford? I know wet belt timing belts degrade quickly. If let go they can put rubber in the motor. Sometimes blocking the oil pickup. I think the Fiat hurricane has a wet belt and that motor is too complex. Let me know. ✌️
Thanks for the great info! Based on your knowledge of this engine, what do you think a responsible life expectancy is for the engine? 150, 200, 300k miles?
with good maintenance, I don't see why these engines could't get to 200k without much issue. but maintenance is so critical on these forced induction engines.
@@GettysGarageGreat to know, thank you!!! I’ve got the ‘23 F-150 V8 with max tow and max payload. Thinking about getting 2.7 for daily driver. Should be better economy but I hope I’m not being penny wise pound foolish.
I have a 2020 Edge ST with the first generation 2.7 L engine. Would using a catch, can slow the carbon deposits on the valves? What is your input on using a catch can?
Im pretty sure the first gen have a variable displacement oil pump but it was chain driven and the oil pan didn't have a gasket it was just rvt was the gasket
5:52 - That's not a turbine, that's a compressor wheel, or impeller. It's not turbines, it's turbine, and that's the one that the arrow is not pointing to in that picture.
I wish GM would of put dual port injection on the GEN5 SBC. LT5 got it, along with zero AFM/DFM hardware pieces, and LT5 is by far the best GEN5 SBC to come factory in a car or truck. The GEN5 6.2L LT is an engine with potential that blows GEN4 6.2L LS out the water, but GM just hampers it so much from the factory. If you've got deep pockets, and you can afford to build a proper GEN5 376 ci engine without doing some budget build, you will have one hell of a badass engine. But we're talking you need to fully forge the rotating assembly with way better pieces than that loose tolerance GM crap. (WTF GM?) You need to invest is a dual port injection system, which is expensive, but far superior to GM's DI setup, which not only allows for carbon buildup, but also limits RPM potential. Also you need to delete that DOD chit out the engine. You do all that along with you typical H/C/I/bolton mods, and GEN5 6.2L will straight up shine especially on E85. These new high CR engines really take well to E85, even when N/A. One negative to DI is they tend to not be great for high RPM use as they inject fuel on the compression stroke, which leave very little time to inject enough fuel into the cylinders. IMO the biggest issues your C8 Z06 owners are going to experience is going to be fuel system related. Why would you F'in develop an engine to spin 8,500 RPM, and make it DI, instead of dual port? I mean for one, GM of all companies should appreciate keeping valve weight to a minimum in high RPM engine. I mean look at all the measures they took when counting grams on the LS6/LS7 valves. Using a fuel system that allows for a bunch of carbon buildup on the back of your intake valves can't be ideal for 8,500 RPM operations. Two, they're using things like really efficient injectors that likely cost out the arse, and dual high pressire pumps, and all this fancy stuff, just to be able to feed the engine enough fuel to sustain 8,500 RPM. Why dick around with this? Is GM just trying to prove a point? Dual port injection works, has been proven reliable, and has pretty much no real negatives to it. Plus it's way easier and cheaper to mod as you leave the DI side stock, and mod the port side of the fuel system. It worked to feed LT5. GEN3+ Coyote owners frequently mod to spin north of 8,000 RPM and dual port injection handles it great, while kerping the valves clean. It worked great in LT5.
IMO that is a bit of an overblown topic for those consumers who do regular oil changes and routine maintenance. For the average consumer who may not be as fastidious there could be issues, especially when following OEM recommended intervals that are in the 10-15k range. Just my anecdote, but most of the issues I see online from DI carbon build up stuff is on engines which were neglected in other ways such as the aforementioned. I still put a catch can on my Focus w/ turbo just for the peace of mind but then again I also put one on my port injected gen 2 5.0 so maybe I just like burning money, lol.
Any decent name brand full synthetic oil will be just fine. the key is to change your oil regularly. i'd recommend going no more then 5K miles per oil change on these forced induction engines.
2.7 does seem like a decent engine. Same turbo and plumbing complexities of the 3.5. Both seem like decent choices. Any cam phaser problems on the 2.7? I haven't heard of any on the 2.7.
The F-150 2.7L turbos and exhaust manifolds are totally different than the 3.5L turbos and manifolds, no F-150 2.7L engine or turbo part will fit any F-150 3.5L
Catch can in the 1st gen. Not needed in the 2nd gen with the added port injection cleaning the valves. I’ve owned both and is the primary reason I moved to the 2nd gen with no regrets.
I have the first gen 2.7L on my 2015 F-150 but with only 63K miles. Has anyone experienced carbon build up issues on their and has anyone gone for a walnut blasting service to clean the valves?
Ford introduced cylinder deactivation to their f150 in 2021 only on their 5.0 v8. Fords 2.7 and 3.5 eco boost do not use cylinder deactivation. Cylinder deactivation itself isn’t new to ford. They first started rolling it out on their smaller sedans and escape in 2016. Cylinder deactivation (afm) has been a part of Chevy since 2005+.
i just hate that ford has cylinder deactivation on the new v8’s hence the reason i’m goin for the 2.7 i had rhe 3.5 and it was jus problems for the transmission
Looking at getting this 2021 F-150 2.7L ecoboost with 73000kms. I’m getting mixed reviews for its reliability and longevity. Does anyone have first hand experience with the second gen 2.7?
If I were Ford, I’d offer this engine paired with a plug in hybrid. I’d go one step further and make an F-100 plug in hybrid. The F-100 would be designed around light weight materials inside the cab and a lighter frame, drivetrain and even wheels and tires. Guarantee they could get such a light truck to deliver 30 mpg city and 30 mpg highway. If GM did the same with a plug in hybrid diesel light 1500, you’d see 35 mpg city and 32-35 highway. If they paired with a battery they could deliver 50 miles battery only, they would reduce fuel consumption by 80%. Most Americans who drive, drive less than 29 miles a day.
So, twice as many Injectors that can fail... AND... did the 2'nd gen go to a BELT driven oil pump vs the prior chain driven oil pump? Variable-pressure oil pump = lower pressure at idle and the "variable" part is another failure point = 👎
My 2016 still leaks oil - its pan was replaced three times on the FIRST three oil changes - still has the old oil pan at 77,000 mi. Ford should have extended the warranty to upgrade to the new part (there is a TSB).
More "OIL" Everywhere, All the Time, If it Takes Pressure to do it.... Then More Pressure, Plastic Oil Pan was/Is an Issue. My 2022 3.5 EB Has the Aluminum Pan. So far So Good there. And Changing the OIL is Just a MUST at MAX 5K or Sooner, with FULL Synthetic Oil. I still wanted the 5.0 V8, but when I bought my truck, I could Not Find one, and when I did they wanted 10K over the "MSRP"???? Now, they are Sitting on the LOTS Collecting Dirt and Dust, and Getting DEAD Batteries in the Process. My 2022 has had the Battery Replaced already with the MAX Size 800 CCA Unit, up from the Factory 760CCA Junk!
its funny you mention trucks sitting. they are PILLING up in my town. all manufacturer are going to have to start dropping prices because the average person can't afford a 75k truck at 8% financing.
Ya, they are Gonna get what they were Dishing out in the Reverse Order, The'll sell em for what they can Get for Em, or they will sit and hopefully ROT B 4 Someone get's SCREWED Like We Did. $88K for My LARIAT F-150 That's a LOADED UNIT. They Got me for $2500.00 Over the MSRP. Hey I agreed to the Deal, so that's on me! BUT what a Terrible way to do Business, just awful !
@@GettysGarage Thanks for the great videos. I like the in depth reviews of specific engines. This kind of detail is what mainstream media lacks. You, TFL Truck and Savagegeese are my favorite automotive TH-camrs. Awesome job!👍
My 2016 F165 has 97k miles and I have not had a problem with carbon on my valves. I only charge my oil and I have never had a problem with my oil pan leaking. You really should stop repeating everything you read online.
Lol okay bud. Direct injection carbon build-up is extensively known throughout the industry. Im sure Ford spent millions of dollars to fix problems that didn't exist.
@@angrybeavers1175 A lot of people I have talked to getting gas. Has not had any of these problems. If you want to know the truth. Talk to people you see getting gas. We love to talk about our trucks.
Here is facts about Ford look how many engines they changed since 99 if you really honestly think about it tells you something but Chevy gmc had same motors but different is they fix problems with motor instead of changing so many different motors like ford
GM engines are all new every 4 or 5 years, current Ecotec 5.3 was all new in 2014, it shares nothing with previous versions except the displacement, 5.3 is different again for 2021.
When I had a GM it always had low oil pressure. They would never do anything about it. At 99k miles the crank broke. New crate engine had good oil pressure. GM don’t want to fix or replace engines. I’ll never buy another GM because of their service.
The only thing different about either the 5.3 or the 6.2 is a change from the crappy AFM to the even worse DFM. Other than that they are both the same and make the same HP/TQ that they made ten years ago. The pre AFM 5.3 was a good engine. I wouldn't touch one after 2007(Classic model only).@@benjaminwayneb
@@BamaTidefan1967 The Ecotec3 was all new in 2014, 2021 the block is different, they went to a different cooling system design with a water pump that mounts in the center instead of off to the left.
I have a 2018 f150 2.7 With 259000 miles alternator was the biggest issue I had at 150000. Now I need new Cats. It has been the best vehicle I have ever had
any issues with your trans? Hard shifts up or down etc.
I have 2018 f150 2.7. 99,000 miles and zero issues
I also have a 2018 F150 2.7L. Mine only has 99K on it as of this post. Its been nothing but a proper work horse for me. I'm in my 60's (not to sound morbid) but this could be the last truck I ever have to buy. If past performance is any indicator, I will be to old to drive anymore before this truck needs replacing.
@@bryanharveylabro6112
Sorry for the necro, and I know I wasn’t the intended person for the comment, but I have a 2018 2.7 with 106k miles. I have/had some issues with shifting, but my dealer ran the current TSB for the CDF drum and it helped. Also had the valve body replaced at the same time covered under warranty, and that seemed to help as well. I still have some thunky funky shifts, but I chock that up to the finicky 10 speed.
good to know 2.7 made it past 259000, mine is at 200,000, oil pan leaking, rough shift. but still going strong 😊
Info correction here regarding the timing chains between the two generation: Both 1st and 2nd generations of the 2.7 they both have ALWAYS used two timing chains, one for each bank. The 2.7 is not known for timing chain rattle or issues whatsoever!
There's problems arising with cam phasers 22 and up now.
@@MacGregor. not as widespread as it was with the 3.5
@@jmc6000 no. But the 3.5 is straitened out after all the problems. Now the newer 2.7s are doing that some. When they didn't 18-21
My Grandson has a 2018 2.7 That Rattles like Crazy at start up. Dealer Say's it's "N O R M A L"????? Comical how they use that "EXCUSE" All the Time. Just Hilarious!!!
@@kendavis1198 timing chain rattle or waste gate rattle?
Love my 2019 F150; 97k miles on it and bought new. I cut all maintenance intervals in at least half and it runs now like it did new 🤙🏻.
best idea ever
Just depends on what you are comfortable with. Nothing wrong with having fresh oil in the engine
Fresh oil every 5k; tranny flush transfer case, rear diff fluid change and new spark plugs every 30k; coolant flush every 50k; front differential fluid change every 50k. Aiming for 300k miles out of it 🤘🏻
No issues out of the transmission? I just had to get my 10 speed over hauled last week. New Cdf drum and valve body rebuild . The engine is running great though. Love the 2.7
@@Jeff_Sigmondid the cdf drum seem to fix the tranny? About to have my valve body done under warranty but I suspect the cdf drum is the culprit
I just got a 24 f150 stx crew cab 2.7l and i love it, couldn't believe how smooth and quiet it is and if you get after it she rips very impressed so far.
I don’t change oil when oil life monitor says to. I still do the 3k mile with full synthetic + filter. Call me crazy.
If that makes you crazy, then we're both crazy.
I mean there is no harm in changing oil early. I personally change my oil every 6-7k Kilometers or roughly 4500miles
Crazy? Crazy good, probably!
When opening a compartment you always increase the chance of introducing dirt/debris/human error.
@@GettysGarage 4500 miles is the sweet spot. Any earlier wont really help that much. Any later than 5k tho and stuff starts disintegrating lmao.
Just got a 2023 STX 2.7L 4x4. Did lots of research and your vidoes were a big part. Really impressed with this engine and truck overall. Very pleased with it coming from a 2015 Ram 5.7L (which was an amazing truck for me).
Man I gotta tell you,I always end up getting smarter after watching your reviews…solid man!
Appreciate it sir!
The compacted graphite iron block and crazy cast aluminum block truss that locks all the main caps and webs together on the 2.7L is very impressive.
It would be cool to swap one of these into a classic Ford Ranger.
...in addition to port injection helping reduce intake valve buildup, the PCV system has a built in oil separator in the valve cover to reduce 'oily' vapours into the intake manifold.
I own a 2017 F150 with the 2.7 Ecoboost. Truck has around 126k miles, and it has not given us any issues that affect daily driving. However, my wife is the primary driver, and she complained to me how much her exhaust seems be visible when the truck idles in the morning. I’m pretty handy with engines for a layman, so I checked it out, and she’s right. We live in Montana, so seeing your exhaust on a cold morning is common. But her truck had significantly more than the neighbors or another vehicle idling.
So I started to actually do some research, and these engines have the exhaust manifold cast as one piece as part of the cylinder head. Therefore, there are coolant passages in the exhaust manifold that help control the exhaust gas temperature into the turbochargers. I’m afraid we have developed a small crack between the coolant and exhaust passages, and are burning a small amount of coolant out the exhaust. It’s not too bad yet, but I’ve read a couple forum horror stories, and as the problem progresses it can be borderline catastrophic. And since the exhaust manifold is the cylinder head, replacing them is basically a complete engine tear down.
could very well be a coolant leak. i'd monitor the coolant level and if you notice it going down with no external leaks you might be correct!
@@GettysGarage It has been losing coolant at a slow rate. Haven’t found any external leaks, and there are no indications of a head gasket issue. So the cracked exhaust manifold is what I was leaning towards. It just seemed like something extra that could happen with this particular engine that you wouldn’t need to worry about with a traditional engine head/exhaust manifold design.
Turbo engines have more condensation on startup over N/A engines, so it will smoke more. Very few head failures on these engines. I would look into the turbo coolant line.
I have a 2016 2.7 and have the same issue. I bought it with 150k and it smoked worse before changing out the oil twice with Valvoline Advance High Mileage. I didn't notice any coolant loss on mine but another problem that could be the culprit is the driver's side turbo feed oil line. There's a TSB on that.
Nice video, I totally agree with your 5000 mile oil change interval “no matter what “😊
Good video, looking forward to the next one. Drive safe and see everyone next year!
Thank you sir!
My 2018 F-150 RCSB 2.7L FX4 has 72K miles and never had a problem, MPG average: 21.5 At 70K, I downloaded a 93 Octane Performance Tune and it's even quicker than it was. WOT on dry asphalt, 3rd gear chirps/bark locked rear 285/45/22 Michelins every time.
Some really great updates. You always do a wonderful job hitting all the main points
Great video! Will be interesting to see the towing results of this truck. That variable oil pump 😢
Very common in modern engines.
Love the 2.7.One of my favs
very solid engine.
This thing is gonna be absolutely nasty in the 2024 ranger. Can’t wait to get mine and totally customize. It’s gonna be sweeet!
I have the first gen and I put plus in it and it runs much better and don't have to worry about carbon build up as much, only problem is the turbo actuator rattles which they fixed on the newer ones. Also the plastic oil pan leaks, the old oil pans did not have gaskets and was just a sealant..
I have a 2021 I picked up back in November with 72k on it. I am just about to hit 80k. My first tuck, been more of an SUV guy. Absolutely no complaints so far.
I hate that they changed to a wet belt driven oil pump on the second gen. I would much prefer the oil pump set-up on the first gen.
Yes! I'm gonna talk more about that when I talk about issues with this engine but I'm not a fan.
@@GettysGaragehelp!! Which ford engine would you buy?
I bet you didn't even know what a wet oil pump belt was before ford made this switch. Maybe go work for ford since you know more than the engineers that designed the most reliable engine they have
@@jamesandrews145 lol whatever you say 😂
@jamesandrews145 Engineers are not infallible grniuses. I would argue that engineers and architects should work 4 years in the field (like residency for MDs) before they are granted a license. This would provide practical hands-on experience and a different perspective on design where future serviceability is considered. If you've ever worked on a car, you would understand what I'm saying.
The oil pan issue is because the factory didn't seal them correctly, and 90% of the techs can't either. I never had any of the oil pan I resealed come back.
"I'm a good ol 5000 miles kind of guy". You are wise beyond your years young man. I'm currently looking hard for my first brand new truck since 1992. My son has a 2020 XLT with the 5.0. I really like the truck. I've primarily owned Chevy/GM most of my life, but right now the Fords really have my attention. It's been pretty hard to find an XLT optioned out like I want AND have the 5.0 that is my desired engine package. I have to admit when I've seen the trucks with the 2.7 v6 I've been turning my nose up at them. However watching your video's has opened my mind to possibly including this as an option for an engine. My new truck will be a daily driver and mostly highway driving so fuel economy is always desirable - right? LOL. Thanks for your insight.
I average around 60,000 miles a year in my industry and have miled out around 4 F150s. I just a bought another 2.7L, the 5.0 is my close second choice, the 3.5L don’t exist to me. I’ve put hundreds of thousands miles on all 3
You sound just like me.
@@losungen9862 If I was putting that kind of mileage on a newer F150, I would avoid the 2.7 and 5.0 unless you plan on having that oil pump belt changed almost every year. Guys insist they're fine but Ford just finally admitted the 1.0 EB with the same belt driven oil pump has issues because of that belt. The debris with the rubber belt will clog the oil pickup screen if the belt doesn't fail.
Drive em. The 2.7 is quicker and gets better mpg.
@@karlschauff7989 5.0 is the best if its enough power for you. id rather save on repairs than on fuel
I'm on my second 2.7 F150. Oil changes are the last thing you want to skimp on. I change mine every 4,000 miles. Sometimes sooner.
Oil is the lifeblood of engines! And much cheaper than engines
I have test drove a 3.5 power boost, I was very impressed with it, but my concern is life down the road I feel that this engine will get very expensive fast. So, I'M thinking about a ford f-150 STX with the 2.7l V6 EcoBoost. Your videos have helped me. Thanks for your videos. Note: AMSOIL IS the best oil for the EcoBoost engines.
I don't feel like the variable displacement oil pump is necessarily the biggest issue with that. The part of that that I really don't like is the fact they changed the oil pump chain for a wet belt.
Awesome video Sir. Always enjoy the in depth info.
I personally have not had any experience with the 2.7, but have friends that love theirs.
I don't think it would be the engine for me but people seem to really like them and have good success with them
Would you still prefer the 5.0 even with the cylinder deactivation. I'm looking for a 4X4 1/2 ton pickup and reliability is tops. 3.5? 2.7? Ram, Chevy, etc.
Also, I'm not towing, just hunting, hauling dirt and bark for my yard.
Thanks for the post..
on the side note, you forgot to mention the wet belt for the oil pump that will eventually clog up the oil pump and blow the engine..
The reason for making camshafts etc hollow is to lower the reciprocating mass. I t has little to do with improving power but making the components lighter to improve (increase) responsiveness.
makes alot of sense now that I'm thinking about it! thank you sir
Excellent video. I'm frustrated with Ford's calibration of their variable oil pump (including the new 7.3L gas motor) - that is my only real concern with the latest Ford engines. I think this, like the Chevy 5.3L/6.2L V8s or the 5.7L HEMI, can be great motors if you stay on top of powertrain maintenance and use high quality oils. I also love the 5.0L Ford and 3.0L Duramax GMC/Chevy at the moment for the same reasons - solid engine choices if you can stay on top of maintenance.
I'm not so sure about the new Hurricane I-6 from Stellantis (CDJR) in the new Ram trucks. Their latest engines designs have been solid but I'm a skeptic.
Can't wait for a similar video on the controversial new turbocharged V6 Toyota Tundra. That one has upset a lot of Toyota enthusiasts because it replaced an excellent 5.7L V8 engine. I've read great reviews of trucks featuring that engine, but I'm not sure it's going to satisfy some of the people who buy Toyotas for longevity or fuel efficiency. Toyota normally thinks things through pretty well.
What is your opinion on catch cans for the 2nd gen 2.7l ? Do you recommend one? Thanks for anyone’s response.
A variable oil pump is "better" because it keeps the oil pressure at a constant psi with different temperatures of the oil viscosity and rpm unlike a 1 stage oil pump were psi can hike up to 70psi or higher.
When I had an '18 Colorado with the v6, it had a variable oil pump and the oil pressure was at a constant 52 psi
I love my 2022 Ford F-150 XLT Super Cab 4x4 with the 2.7 liter EcoBoost V6. There seems to be quite a few advantages to getting the "2nd Generation" 2.7 liter EcoBoost V6. The 10r80 ten speed automatic transmission is leaps ahead of the older six speed automatic. I even like the stock programming of my 2022 10r80 transmission as is does none of the skip-shifting BS that the same 10r80 ten speed transmission did in my previous 2020 Ford Ranger. I did however "tune" my Ford Ranger via a Livernois Motorsports tune that got rid of that annoying gear skipping. The "dual" fuel injection feature seems beneficial to helping lessen the carbon build-up on the intake valves + intake tract. Also I've not heard of near as many timing chain issues or failures or cam phaser issues on the 2.7 liter EcoBoost V6. There seem to be more of those kinds of issues on the 1st Generation bigger 3.5 liter EcoBoost V6.
I try and tell MoFo's this, but then they act like 6R80 is this pillar of perfect reliability, while 10R80 acts like it's built with plastic gears. The reality is if you like performance then the 10R80 vehicles skeet all over their 6R80 predecessors. My 18 5L/10R80 truck has been 100% reliable, and I've daily driven it for about 2 years on a AML tune, and E85, spinning about 7,200 RPM's which is about 1,200 RPM more than the factory redline. (WTF Ford, is this an average MPG move to appease the EPA losers? Even with the truck manifold this engine breathes fine, and doesn't experience a power drop off until around 7K RPM. The stock 6K redline on the GEN3 5L trucks was ridiculous. I think the GEN4 5L trucks now spin to 7K RPM.?.?) But yes, the 10R80 is a willing and quick to downshift partner. And even being so willing to shift, very rarely does gear hunting become a nuisance. When you hear these car reviewers ridicule it as being the worst transmission in a modern truck, with poor shifting, I'm thinking, "IDK WTF you're talking about, as I feel it's the exact opposite." Before I bought my truck I tested all the other brands other than Nissan in 2020, and I preferred the 10R80 to everyone. It was just more responsive and willing to downshift under power than either Rams ZF 8 speed, or GM's 8L90 or 10L80 trucks. GM's 10L80 might be 99% the same as the 10R80, but GM tunes it so lazy. Even a stock tuned 10R80 will give you 2-3 gear downshifts at 1/8-1/4 throttle. The 19 Denali L87/10L80 truck I tested needed damn near WOT to give you that kind of downshift. GM seems to want to force the engine to lug itself up to speed. Let the gearing in the 10 speed work for you. I found the Rams 8 speed to be kind of "meh." I guess similar to the 10L80. Not bad per say, but nowhere near as willing to downshift as the 10R80, unless you give the truck a lot more throttle. This unwillingness to downshift means you have to drive the other brands harder to achieve the same kind of acceleration, as you have to apply more throttle to command a downshift, where just 1/8 or so throttle in F150 will get you a 2-3 gear downshift, and allow the truck to accelerate briskly without needing to spin a bunch or RPM's.
The only time I find gear hunting to be an issue is when climbing a hill, and you're stuck behind someone who's going really slow, and taking 1.5-2 miles (literally) to accelerate up to the speed limit. There is such a hill for me on my way home from work, and people act like when you turn onto this road that goes right into a moderate incline, that it should take 2 minutes, or the entirety of the hill, to accelerate up to 55-60 MPH. It absolutely amazes me how many people act like their 03 Ranger, or modern crossover, or late model Altima needs this whole hill to accelerate from 10-15 MPH once you make the turn, up to 55 MPH. On a scale of 1-10 of hills being easy to hard too climb at worst this hill would be a 5, but probably a 4. If I turn on the road and no ones in front of me, I'll accelerate normally up to 60MPH which may take 6-7 seconds at 1/8 throttle, set my C/C at 60 MPH, and the truck will easily climb the hill in 9th gear at around 1,500 RPM. My slow, underpowered, old 93 S10 had no issue climbing this hill, or getting up to speed on it, but for some reason people have always treated it like they need to accelerate up it at a snails pace, and not reach the speed limit until the top, which again tends to take about 2 minutes to reach, and this slow as hell acceleration will have the 10R80 constantly going back and forth, 7th to 8th, 8th to 7th, 8th to 9th, 9th to 8th. That's the only scenario I've found where I don't enjoy the 10R80. It's not so bad in my 03 Lightning with a 4R100, but it gets pretty aggravating with the 10 speed constantly shifting up and down.
As far as the skip shift, it never bothered me. My tuner got rid if it, but if I'd never read about it, or watched the 10 speed gear readout on the dash, I never would have known my truck had it. IDK, maybe it's because I've got more displacement than your 20 Ranger had.?.?
I'd like to know why it's annoying to you that it skip shifts? I think it's a good idea, if you are driving around town, and light on the throttle, skip shifting can reduce wear on the transmission.
@@sherylellingson3538 Well, all your big name tuners want to delete the skip shift. Skip shift has never been anything more than the OEM's looking for a way to eek out every possible decimal of a MPG to improve fuel economy. It's not there to benefit with refinement, or improve reliability. Even back in the day before the OEM's were having to meet unrealistic CAFE laws, you had gas tax laws. Companies like GM would put skipshift in certain manual cars, as GM introduced it in the late 80's, first in the Vettes. When cars started using T56 it became the standard other than with Ford. Viper, Vette, and Fbody cars with T56's all used skipshift to go from 1st to 4th if you shifted before 2K RPM. It was quite annoying. Skipshift eliminators became priority, first mod, kind of mod. Hell it could be dangerous. Sometime you just want to get rolling (especially in traffic) and quickly shift out of 1st, and use 2nd to accelerate with, but if you forgot to hold 1st until the engine went past 2K RPM then the car would block you from 2nd, and you'd be sitting there bumbling around with the shifter in neutral trying to figure out why it won't go to 2nd, before you quickly remember that this car has skipshift. Hell my 19 1SS 1LE still came with that BS. It's way harder to get to, to eliminate than it was on my old Fbody LS1 cars, though so I lived with it on my GEN6. Anyway it was just there to help lower or eliminate the gas tax these V8 cars generally came with. If you wanted to go out and buy a new 01 Lightning or 04 Cobra back in the day, you had a gas tax added to the cost of the vehicle. It was kind of like a destination/delivery tax that they still apply to the vehicle cost.
Honestly I can't tell a difference during normal driving with or without the skipshift in my truck. The only way to tell a difference is to look at the gear indicator gauge in the dash, but I have the V8. On a truck with a smaller engine the skipshift might be more noticeable as when driving light enough for the truck to use skipshift, you likely aren't boosting much, so you're probably down on power. This is me speculating, and nothing more, but I've kind of wondered that maybe the reason why some people have issues with their 10R80's is maybe caused by the skipshift. I don't know this, but I've seen far less people complaining about 10R80 issues that are driving trucks with custom tunes where the transmission is tuned to match the engine tune, and the skipshift deactivated. Skipping gears does not result in less wear and tear. The way people traditionally improved automatic transmission reliability (other than regularly replacing the fluid) was to run a large cooler, and also quicken the shifts. A performance valve body doesn't just aid in acceleration from quick/firm shifts, it also helps minimize clutch slippage, which reduces wear, and helps prolong the transmissions lifespan. Modern, more electrically controlled transmissions like the 10R80 are very tuneable (if the OEM doesn't try locking them up) and capable of shifting very quickly and smooth. My truck in normal driving goes very quickly from 1st to 2nd to 3rd, to 4th etc. It doesn't skip gears, but if they are not needed it doesn't spend time in them either. During light acceleration it might spend less than half a second in 2nd/3rd/4th depending on what's needed. Regardless of what engine you have you should get a tune by a reputable tuner for your engine choice. These modern F150 are some of the most rewarding vehicles to tune as they deliver big returns for your investment. A custom tuned 10R80 is much improved over a stock tuned 10R80, just make sure the tuner you use is competent with your platform. In todays era of datalogging you can buy a mail order tune, from a tuner of your choosing that might be 1,500 miles away, but have him put as good a tune on your vehicle as a custom dyno tune. For example I'm in SC, but my tuner's based in Houston, but my tune is on point after 4 datalogs sessions.
I don't think it has VGT turbos. The waste gates went electronically controlled on the second gen.
I believe that you are correct. These turbos are a bit on the small side to have VGT
They definitely don't have VGT
Twin turbocharging requires additional components and installation, which can increase the project’s overall cost.
To ensure proper function and longevity of the engine, supporting modifications such as upgraded fuel systems, intercoolers, and exhaust systems may be necessary, which can further increase the cost.
Also can put additional strain on the engine and increase the potential for damage if not installed and tuned properly. Increase maintenance for
Twin turbo can require more complex maintenance and repairs, which can be more costly and time-consuming than standard engine maintenance. Decrease in reliability
Twin turbo can increase the potential for engine failures or breakdowns, which can be costly to repair and may decrease the overall reliability of the engine.
Hi Alex.
You explain and show pro's & count's sometimes we don't understand the brand decisions.
I hope every time ford manufactures offers better engines with good performance and reliability.
EXCELENT Video!
My best wishes and happy new year!
Blessings 😊
Thank you sir. Happy Holidays and you'll see you in the new year!
The eco boost engines all have jets under the pistons spraying oil directly on the hottest parts, this seems like a major improvement
Thank you for the information... very helpful!
Maybe you’ve done it but, you should make a video picking which half ton you would pick for everyday and occasional towing. I have a ram 2500 with the 6.4. I love it when towing but I only really tow a few times in the summer. 32ft travel trailer. Other than that the truck basically sits. I’m thinking about going back to 1/2 ton
160,000 on my 2015 2.7l intake valves look fine also still have the original oil pan. Carbon build-up was more of an issue on the 1st gen 3.5.
I just did a 700 mile trip in my 2018 2.7. At 70 mpg most of the trip I averaged 23.9 mpg.
Great video. Hope to see midsize truck reviews in the future if possible
Working on getting some midsized trucks in 2024!
I have a 2020 2.7 Ford Crew Cab with 9,500miles love my truck
These are great motors, with meticulous maintenance.
as with any forced induction engine maintenance is absolutely critical
what type of maintenance is normal maintenance like oil changes what else ?
Ìn my 2018 f150 5l the oil gets changed every 5k with synthetic oil, oli is cheap engines aren't.
My thinking exactly!
Not directly related to this video but to a 3.5 2023 ecoboost but it may apply to this motor also. At low rpm less than 2,000, when load comes on it will boost heavily at 1,500 to 1,700 rpm, if you force a downshift to 9th or 8th gear you see an increase in fuel economy. Ford must know this, why would they boost heavily and get poorer fuel consumption than spinning the motor faster in a lower gear?
Its interesting you mention that because when I towed with the 3.5L the engine was mostly in 10th gear boosting heavily and a couple people mentioned exactly what you said. You would think in tow haul mode the engine would want to keep higher RPM's
I’ve noticed this with my 2019 3.5 pulling my enclosed snowmobile trailer. If I let the truck use all 10 gears I’ll average 8.5 mpg, if I lock out 9-10 I’ll average 10mpg. I’ve personally found 65-68mph is the sweet spot for fuel efficiency while towing with the 3.5. The 5.0 I’ve found is decent up to 75mph while towing after that it likes to drink heavy
@@andrewjoyce3634 I do the same, lock out 9 and 10, pulling a 16' x 7' x 7' tandem axle box trailer with up to 4000# payload it doesn't work hard just burns gas, same load on a flat bed and the mpg goes up about 3 mpg.
@@GettysGarage Probably depends on balance of load etc. The engine requires POWER just to rotate at higher RPM's with increasing kinetic energy wasted (mass of pistons changing directions etc) so a little boost to make same power at lower RPM may actually use less fuel compared to lower engine load but more RPM's/More combustions etc.
Getting into lugging territory might be an issue tho.
Anyone with a instant MPG gauge should set cruise control at say 70 MPH and note the mpg rate. Then manually hold lower gears and you will see less MPG.
Remember same power sent to the rear axle to maintain the same steady speed to push thru the air and other fixed resistance, but faster engine, and other parts = more fuel used
What you say is what I expected, not what I observe with the instant mpg readings. @@hackfreehvac
Would amsoil brand oil be good to use for this motor and what brand filter cartridge?
amsoil is a great brand
Love my 2.7 2020 strong truck
Did we ever get the towing review for the 2.7?
Does it run a wet timing belt instead of a chain. My understanding is this one does not. are there any wet belt turbo motors from Ford? I know wet belt timing belts degrade quickly. If let go they can put rubber in the motor. Sometimes blocking the oil pickup. I think the Fiat hurricane has a wet belt and that motor is too complex. Let me know. ✌️
Hurry and post the next video about this truck/engine!!!!
Are all those upgrades for the 2.7l 2nd gen also on the ford Ranger 2.7l engine ?
I have a 2016 f150 2.7 with 120000 2nd Owner, at what mileage should I change the spark plugs?
My local ford dealer doesnt listen to manufacturer. They change oil for life at 5k miles each time. Along with a motor for life guarantee.
Please do a tundra review
How do you screw up probably the easiest part of the engine, the oil pan? Had to get mine replaced on my 2015. RTV is the secret sauce!
Thanks for the great info! Based on your knowledge of this engine, what do you think a responsible life expectancy is for the engine? 150, 200, 300k miles?
with good maintenance, I don't see why these engines could't get to 200k without much issue. but maintenance is so critical on these forced induction engines.
@@GettysGarageGreat to know, thank you!!! I’ve got the ‘23 F-150 V8 with max tow and max payload. Thinking about getting 2.7 for daily driver. Should be better economy but I hope I’m not being penny wise pound foolish.
I have a 2020 Edge ST with the first generation 2.7 L engine. Would using a catch, can slow the carbon deposits on the valves? What is your input on using a catch can?
Im pretty sure the first gen have a variable displacement oil pump but it was chain driven and the oil pan didn't have a gasket it was just rvt was the gasket
I don't think so but I could be wrong. either way not a fan of it. or that stupid belt lol
5:52 - That's not a turbine, that's a compressor wheel, or impeller. It's not turbines, it's turbine, and that's the one that the arrow is not pointing to in that picture.
The 2.7 ecoboost coming soon in the 2024 f150 is again going through some minor changes and tweaks just to make it better.
I wish GM would have done port and direct injection on their 2.7. Bonus that Ford did it on theirs.
I wish GM would of put dual port injection on the GEN5 SBC. LT5 got it, along with zero AFM/DFM hardware pieces, and LT5 is by far the best GEN5 SBC to come factory in a car or truck.
The GEN5 6.2L LT is an engine with potential that blows GEN4 6.2L LS out the water, but GM just hampers it so much from the factory. If you've got deep pockets, and you can afford to build a proper GEN5 376 ci engine without doing some budget build, you will have one hell of a badass engine. But we're talking you need to fully forge the rotating assembly with way better pieces than that loose tolerance GM crap. (WTF GM?) You need to invest is a dual port injection system, which is expensive, but far superior to GM's DI setup, which not only allows for carbon buildup, but also limits RPM potential. Also you need to delete that DOD chit out the engine. You do all that along with you typical H/C/I/bolton mods, and GEN5 6.2L will straight up shine especially on E85. These new high CR engines really take well to E85, even when N/A.
One negative to DI is they tend to not be great for high RPM use as they inject fuel on the compression stroke, which leave very little time to inject enough fuel into the cylinders. IMO the biggest issues your C8 Z06 owners are going to experience is going to be fuel system related. Why would you F'in develop an engine to spin 8,500 RPM, and make it DI, instead of dual port? I mean for one, GM of all companies should appreciate keeping valve weight to a minimum in high RPM engine. I mean look at all the measures they took when counting grams on the LS6/LS7 valves. Using a fuel system that allows for a bunch of carbon buildup on the back of your intake valves can't be ideal for 8,500 RPM operations. Two, they're using things like really efficient injectors that likely cost out the arse, and dual high pressire pumps, and all this fancy stuff, just to be able to feed the engine enough fuel to sustain 8,500 RPM. Why dick around with this? Is GM just trying to prove a point? Dual port injection works, has been proven reliable, and has pretty much no real negatives to it. Plus it's way easier and cheaper to mod as you leave the DI side stock, and mod the port side of the fuel system. It worked to feed LT5. GEN3+ Coyote owners frequently mod to spin north of 8,000 RPM and dual port injection handles it great, while kerping the valves clean. It worked great in LT5.
Still shocks me that GM does not utilize port injection with their direct injection engines. Ford is well ahead of the curve on this one.
IMO that is a bit of an overblown topic for those consumers who do regular oil changes and routine maintenance. For the average consumer who may not be as fastidious there could be issues, especially when following OEM recommended intervals that are in the 10-15k range. Just my anecdote, but most of the issues I see online from DI carbon build up stuff is on engines which were neglected in other ways such as the aforementioned. I still put a catch can on my Focus w/ turbo just for the peace of mind but then again I also put one on my port injected gen 2 5.0 so maybe I just like burning money, lol.
Good info. Would you recommend full synthetic oil vs the blend that Ford puts in that engine? Thanks.
Ford tech Maculoco recommends full synthetic.
Any decent name brand full synthetic oil will be just fine. the key is to change your oil regularly. i'd recommend going no more then 5K miles per oil change on these forced induction engines.
2.7 does seem like a decent engine. Same turbo and plumbing complexities of the 3.5. Both seem like decent choices. Any cam phaser problems on the 2.7? I haven't heard of any on the 2.7.
No, the 2.7 doesn’t have cam phaser issues .
there are some reports of cam phaser issues but they are rare. no where near as frequent as the 3.5L
The F-150 2.7L turbos and exhaust manifolds are totally different than the 3.5L turbos and manifolds, no F-150 2.7L engine or turbo part will fit any F-150 3.5L
This has nothing to do with the subject matter of this video, but I like the tires on this truck. What brand are they? Thanks.
You want a catch can in second gen as well. Great engine. With maintenance.
Regular oil changes. Good fuel.
Catch can? What do you mean by that?
@@gordonmckay914 look it up., it will help, did my motor..
Catch can in the 1st gen. Not needed in the 2nd gen with the added port injection cleaning the valves. I’ve owned both and is the primary reason I moved to the 2nd gen with no regrets.
@@dandydenni1615 catch can on the second gen as well. Have the 2nd Gen.
It collects some carbon liquid. Ie less dumped on the valve train
Can you do the 2024 ranger xlt please?
can you do a 3.3L v6 review? Thanks.
Where is the towing video that you always do
Fuel savings for the oil belt is like 15 bucks an oil change... Maybe 1%
I have the first gen 2.7L on my 2015 F-150 but with only 63K miles. Has anyone experienced carbon build up issues on their and has anyone gone for a walnut blasting service to clean the valves?
what are ur thoughts on clyinder deactivation ?
Ford introduced cylinder deactivation to their f150 in 2021 only on their 5.0 v8. Fords 2.7 and 3.5 eco boost do not use cylinder deactivation. Cylinder deactivation itself isn’t new to ford. They first started rolling it out on their smaller sedans and escape in 2016. Cylinder deactivation (afm) has been a part of Chevy since 2005+.
i just hate that ford has cylinder deactivation on the new v8’s hence the reason i’m goin for the 2.7 i had rhe 3.5 and it was jus problems for the transmission
IfI may ask, what year did they introduce the cylinder deactivation on the 5.0?
@@sboy1955... I believe this started for 2024 engines. Just a bad idea!
15 - 17 5.0l V8 is the way to go with the 6 speed transmission.🇨🇦✌🏻
people seem to really be having issues with that 10 speed. which is too bad because having 4 extra gears makes a world of difference
Looking at getting this 2021 F-150 2.7L ecoboost with 73000kms. I’m getting mixed reviews for its reliability and longevity. Does anyone have first hand experience with the second gen 2.7?
Can you do this on the 35eb?
Thanks
Never thought about a ford truck, but maybe now..
Talk about how the turbos shorten the life span of a motor. And this motor has 2 turbos.
If I were Ford, I’d offer this engine paired with a plug in hybrid. I’d go one step further and make an F-100 plug in hybrid. The F-100 would be designed around light weight materials inside the cab and a lighter frame, drivetrain and even wheels and tires. Guarantee they could get such a light truck to deliver 30 mpg city and 30 mpg highway. If GM did the same with a plug in hybrid diesel light 1500, you’d see 35 mpg city and 32-35 highway. If they paired with a battery they could deliver 50 miles battery only, they would reduce fuel consumption by 80%. Most Americans who drive, drive less than 29 miles a day.
Hybrid trucks coming soon to be reviewed?
I would love to get the powerboost on the channel.
@@GettysGarage and I would love to see your review
Change you pcv valve every 20,000 miles hepls out alot.
run a catch can. seafoam offers a great intake valve cleaner... turbo friendly.
Never a bad idea!
I have 2 3.5 ebs explorer and a f150 ... done the treatment in both really like your reviews BTW
So, twice as many Injectors that can fail... AND... did the 2'nd gen go to a BELT driven oil pump vs the prior chain driven oil pump?
Variable-pressure oil pump = lower pressure at idle and the "variable" part is another failure point = 👎
My 2016 still leaks oil - its pan was replaced three times on the FIRST three oil changes - still has the old oil pan at 77,000 mi. Ford should have extended the warranty to upgrade to the new part (there is a TSB).
More "OIL" Everywhere, All the Time, If it Takes Pressure to do it.... Then More Pressure, Plastic Oil Pan was/Is an Issue. My 2022 3.5 EB Has the Aluminum Pan. So far So Good there. And Changing the OIL is Just a MUST at MAX 5K or Sooner, with FULL Synthetic Oil. I still wanted the 5.0 V8, but when I bought my truck, I could Not Find one, and when I did they wanted 10K over the "MSRP"???? Now, they are Sitting on the LOTS Collecting Dirt and Dust, and Getting DEAD Batteries in the Process. My 2022 has had the Battery Replaced already with the MAX Size 800 CCA Unit, up from the Factory 760CCA Junk!
its funny you mention trucks sitting. they are PILLING up in my town. all manufacturer are going to have to start dropping prices because the average person can't afford a 75k truck at 8% financing.
Ya, they are Gonna get what they were Dishing out in the Reverse Order, The'll sell em for what they can Get for Em, or they will sit and hopefully ROT B 4 Someone get's SCREWED Like We Did. $88K for My LARIAT F-150 That's a LOADED UNIT. They Got me for $2500.00 Over the MSRP. Hey I agreed to the Deal, so that's on me! BUT what a Terrible way to do Business, just awful !
Yo watch the oil pump belt.
It's never a good idea to buy the first few years of any new engine. The later models always have upgrades to the weak points.
It's honestly the truth. the real issues are usually seen after a couple years in the hands of the public.
@@GettysGarage Thanks for the great videos. I like the in depth reviews of specific engines. This kind of detail is what mainstream media lacks. You, TFL Truck and Savagegeese are my favorite automotive TH-camrs. Awesome job!👍
The newer ones are having the cam phaser problems. $3000 repair. Is it just me, or does Ford have an uncanny knack for screwing up their own designs?
Loved my 2017 2.7. smoked my friends 5.0 lol
Rubber oil pump belt. Stupid. Needs an upgrade asap !
This doesn’t look like a dodge to me
what you are seeing is the dodge f150 2.7L ecodiesel sir
1st gen had dohc vvt
My 2016 F165 has 97k miles and I have not had a problem with carbon on my valves. I only charge my oil and I have never had a problem with my oil pan leaking. You really should stop repeating everything you read online.
Don't buy a newer one then because he's right ..17 and up are junk
Lol okay bud. Direct injection carbon build-up is extensively known throughout the industry. Im sure Ford spent millions of dollars to fix problems that didn't exist.
Lol wow since you haven't had the problem that means nobody had issues or it's not an issue, fascinating logic
liar@@RAM-KINGOFTRUCKS
@@angrybeavers1175 A lot of people I have talked to getting gas. Has not had any of these problems. If you want to know the truth. Talk to people you see getting gas. We love to talk about our trucks.
The only ford f150 I would have would be the v8.
I don't hate these engines but yes the 5L is the best option in my opinion
Agree
Electronic Wastegate actuators*********
If you buy a truck with a 2.7L V6 i question your need for a truck. Wouldn't buy a vehicle of this sort with that small an engine.
I have a second gen. Oil pan leaks. Poor engineering design.
Here is facts about Ford look how many engines they changed since 99 if you really honestly think about it tells you something but Chevy gmc had same motors but different is they fix problems with motor instead of changing so many different motors like ford
GM engines are all new every 4 or 5 years, current Ecotec 5.3 was all new in 2014, it shares nothing with previous versions except the displacement, 5.3 is different again for 2021.
When I had a GM it always had low oil pressure. They would never do anything about it. At 99k miles the crank broke. New crate engine had good oil pressure. GM don’t want to fix or replace engines. I’ll never buy another GM because of their service.
The only thing different about either the 5.3 or the 6.2 is a change from the crappy AFM to the even worse DFM. Other than that they are both the same and make the same HP/TQ that they made ten years ago. The pre AFM 5.3 was a good engine. I wouldn't touch one after 2007(Classic model only).@@benjaminwayneb
@@BamaTidefan1967 The Ecotec3 was all new in 2014, 2021 the block is different, they went to a different cooling system design with a water pump that mounts in the center instead of off to the left.
Same horsepower and same torque since 2014. Much worse cylinder deactivation system as well. @@benjaminwayneb