Thanks for watching, here's a full parts list: Catch Can (2 needed): www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XK9PTP7/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=trialnerror-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B06XK9PTP7&linkId=c05f74427892e3f588afac517e1b605e APS Billet Lower Grill: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07819M8SV/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=trialnerror-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B07819M8SV&linkId=aca6c631f68f1482156d41fa1dbd4a70 AEM DryFlow Air Filter: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006OKXNFE/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=trialnerror-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B006OKXNFE&linkId=1f0389d69717aa4dfc989895e1025695 BRAND SPANKIN' NEW CHANNEL MERCH! teespring.com/stores/trial-n-error More monkey business? Find me on Facebook: facebook.com/TH-camTrialnerror/?view_public_for=232815904127596
@iAmJohn2004 The silver button is a different model that has an optional breather valve that he doesn't have installed. The silver button is just a cap for where the breather valve would go. I tried to link the model that he used but I guess he deleted my comment? I don't know 🤷.
I bought an engineered kit from Mishimoto for my 2016 2.7 ecoboost and put almost 200k miles on the truck with it. Best investment ever. I installed the catchcan at about 25k miles. And cleaned the throttle body and all three MAP sensors. I checked those another 2 times i owned the truck and they were clean. So absolutely worth ot on the ecoboost. Never once had an issue wirh that truck increadibly reliable. All basic maint. On the 200k miles i had it.
Just stumbled on this video. I have an F150 with the 3.5 ecoboost as well and love it. Agree wholeheartedly on the oil changes. I do mine every 5000 miles max. I also highly recommend adding MotorKote to your oil. I'm usually bot one for additives and snake oils but this is a good one that actually does what it says it does. Those turbos spin at 170000 RPM at highway speeds and generate a lot of heat. Those little micro ports can get clogged and no oil = kerploded turbo. It also does a lot to prevent that cam phaser rattle that these are known for. Also, after driving and parking your truck, let it idle for about 5 minutes before shutdown. It allows the turbos to cool properly and prevent premature failure. I learned that from our mechanic that maintains our fleet of ambulances that have turbo diesels.
The turbos in the ecoboost are also watercooled with a pump that runs after shutoff so unless you're running the engine super hard you shouldn't need to idle it, but it never hurts to err on the side of caution after a big drive.
I use the Motorkote Hyperlubricant engine treatment. Watch the demos and read the reviews. It's the only oil additive that actually does what it says it does.
I 2nd the coolent pumping after vehicle is shut off, but I still let it idle for a good 30 seconds to let everything get back to operational temperature.....
I just installed this catch can setup and it works great. There is a sensor on the driver’s side PCV tube. It needs be installed on the hose coming off of the turbo pipe, not the valve cover or you will get an engine light.
I just purchased a 2015 F-150 Platinum truck with the 3.5 L. It scares the crap out of me because it's so Hi-Tech. Thanks for the video. I need to learn more about this truck.
Good video. This helped me with installing dual catch cans on our 2015 Expedition 3.5L Ecoboost. It took me longer to make the bracket to mount them on the firewall than it did to install the catch cans and hoses. Thanks.
I just bought an '18 F150 with 160k miles. Runs perfect, completely stock. Truck literally looks like a 20k mile truck. Previous owner def took care of it. Had full records and was Ford certified which means all oil changes were done on time and at an authorized dealer. It feels like a new truck, smells and looks like a new truck. Pulls everything I need it to. But I haven't did the mods yet, which I do plan to do. The first thing I did was put a soft tonneau cover on, which now everything stays dry in the bed. Also installed a 2nd row seat tray, which holds all my straps, fire extinguisher, and junk under the back seat. Installed husky liners which def keep the dirt off the carpet. Also installed a 3/4" hose on the evaporator drain pipe, passenger side firewall behind the wheel well liner, to prevent the common leak problem which hasn't appeared yet. I'm thinking about installing a programmer to remove the top speed limiter, and gain a little more power, lol. Not that it needs it, but why not...
@trentonharris5521 Where the condensate drain goes through the firewall it's poorly executed such that it's easy for the condensate to dribble back into and under the foam seal and under your passenger firewall/floor carpet. I had to do some serious remediation on mine since I have Husky mats and didn't discover it until I removed that one for a deep cleaning. They sell an overpriced elbow to fit over the drain and route the condensate clear of the wicking seal. Easy to find YT vids and accounts in forums with helpful details/mods to insure success. Would've cost Ford 29 cents to do it right.
I just ordered two catch cans I was going to put one on,until I watched your video. I was wondering why nobody mentioned anything about the left side of engine .Thanks a lot for the info.I just subscribed.I’ll be seeing you again.....
I have 293,456 miles on my 2011 f150 lariat 3.5 and other than the K&N drop in air filter, MSD coils and 4” MBRP exhaust the engine is bone stock and I tow large 25’-35’ yachts with it every week and this thing still has a TON of power, no catch cans, no tune.
They put the tag over the cooler to cut down on condensation getting in the system. Now they use shutter vents. The water in the system was causing plug problems. 2018 and newer use dual injection to help clean the valves and performance. Separators are a nice thing to have should've come from the factory with it.
That's really good information. Mine has the shutters and I disconnected them. My turbo knowledge comes from the aftermarket so I was thinking; "more air, more better". I had ASSumed the shutters were for mileage/EPA issues. I'll be plugging them back in now! Thanks again Pat for the great info!
In very cold winters, condensate in the catch can lines will freeze - unless you mount the cans so that gravity drains it into the can when you shut down the engine. My 2012 F150 (3.5L) had this trouble and oil (>1 quart) blew past a valve cover gasket. The oil leak stopped once the ice in the line melted & the crankcase pressure normalized. You southern boys won't have this problem, of course.
Had the exact same thing happen to my 2012 3.5 in the winter. Needed a new valve cover gasket. Our winters get cold enough that I will have to take the cans off for the season and replace it with the OEM hard line. Kind of defeats the purpose of the catch can setup for that part of the year, but can’t keep blowing gaskets. I am hoping that all that water condensate that forms in the winter might actually have a bit of a cleaning effect . In the summer the cans catch oil/ unburnt fuel. In the winter the amount it catches quadruples but I it seems to be 80% water.
I'm in the north too. If the can is located lower down and lines are ran so there are no low points and gravity will work, are there any issues that could impact gasket?
@@johannesgrimm9911 I also gave up completely on the catch cans in the winter. Some guys are drilling a small hole at the low point of the intercooler (it acts like a big catch can anyway). But, then you got that crap draining all over the place - not being captured in a can. The slight loss of boost in not significant, they say.
I bought a used 2012 f150 about 5 years ago. I got a scorching good deal. It had a few items of neglect. sticky valves was one of the issues. I solved that and have no issues. I read about catch cans and opted to generate something Simler for NO cost. It is called a weep hole in the inner cooler. I leave it unplugged for the bypass gunk to drain. The weep hole serves as a port of entry for intake cleaning. It cleans the residue from the remining bypass gunk from the valve stems without messing with the downstream sensors.
@@chiingythao570 not if it is small. Mine is a tight fit for a straw from an injector cleaner. If you are still worried use a small screw to plug it. Just drain it often
Just took some 18 gauge steel and bent over the top edge to make a lip. Screwed the cans into the long part and hung the lip from the factory battery tray. Super simple.
@@Trialnerror do those can lids where the inlet/outlet connections tap into have some sort of condensation screen involved? I have the JLT passngr can system since 15k miles, but wld like to put the drvrs on now at 33k, but if there isnt a screen those things arent performing to full potential vs the pricey ones, or possibly doing anything at all. Im not ragging on it, im 100% all for dealing with this concern on my '16 2.7l EB
@@Mike_Jones68 I bought the same catch cans (Same design anyway: Evil Energy w/o breather). They have a nice compartment on the "input" side that you can put steel wool into. I paid $19 each for two of them, and they are really good quality. The fittings and hoses are "meh" but easily replaced with quality parts and it is much cheaper than "brand name" catch cans. Very happy with mine so far.
@@TrialnerrorI’m curious about something. I did the same thing on my 2017 2.7L Ecoboost. About a week after installing my trick started making a high pitched whining noise. Couldn’t figure it out so I ended up at the dealer. They told me I was not supposed to put one on the driver’s side. I removed it and reinstalled the hoses that came on the truck. Noise eliminated. How have you not had the same issue?
Yes..buying an unplanned 2013 F150 EcoBoost is what I did also as I past a Ford Dealership and the sticker price and truck caught my eye. Of course I had to buy a small economy car to go with it.
I've got an 11 3.5 eco platinum with 293,756 and no catch can... yet. But I change oil ever 5,000 and drive it like an old man 50 miles every day. Thanks for showing this mod can be done cheaply. I've got 2 in my cart now.
just got a 2014 3.5 ecoboost with 100k miles. Then did research lol. It has had oil changes every 10k but I'm hoping I can do a few things to it, change oil every 5k, and not deeply regret this purchase lol. Prolly doin the catch can first and checking the intake valves for carbon.
I have 100k on my king ranch already, only have changed the cam shaft rear seal and the check valve and solenoid valve other than that its been regular maintenance. Runs like new. Thanks for the video
About buying new....I purchased a brand new 2019 F150 Lariat 502a package with moon roof FX4 in the 4th quarter of the year, got it at 0.99% Ford financed, they gave a new set of Winter tires with Ford Alloy wheel (not ugly steel rims) and Ford Tonneau Cover 50% off, with new Weather Teck mats for Free. Now coming to the point, I shopped a lot before buyin for used F150 Lariat or Platinum and none, I mean none I found which actually beat the price Ford offered for a new one...the Used price with finance monthly premium was either same as what Ford offered for a new or in some cases more..I even tried 4 years old models, no luck, so why bother buying used, I ended up buying a brand spanking new F150 loaded Lariat with all free goodies, Loving it (for family personal use).
Wow, that's a good deal! You're right, especially right now the used pricing for full size trucks is flat out insane. Carvana is offering me $10k more than what I paid for this truck. World's gone nutty.
About the plate location.... on previous gen 3.5's it was mounted on one of the bumper pads. However, there was an issue with the intercooler cooling the air TOO much. If I recall, this sometimes resulted in excess condensation buildup which led to water vapour entering the combustion chamber and reducing engine performance. Ford's fix for this was to install a plastic shroud that partially covers the intercooler! I'm not sure if that shroud is still present in later models but I could totally believe that they would relocate the plate back to center to act as a shroud. This would save them money on two fronts.
I just bought a 3.5 Eco with 48k on it. I like the truck A LOT so far but I'm nervous. Always been a preventive maintenance guy (I guess that's the US Army in me) but if something goes wrong I hope it does before the warranty is up.
Great video I have a 12 F150 3.5 EchoBoost. I don't drive it often because of all the problems others have had with. My advisor is a friend thats service manager at the local Ford dealership but my tips come fron TH-cam.
Subscribed to the channel! I love my '18 2.7 Babyboost, that I got in Dec.' 21, with 83,000 miles on the clock. I don't know what you do for a living, but I wish FoMoCo would pick you up as a common sense engineer! Great tips, thanks from a Texas fan.
I was that guy too.. I never would buy or had purchased a new truck or car, worse financial decision ever. Then COVID hit and right now USED trucks are selling for over MSRP and if you can find the right dealer you can pick up a brand new truck at MSRP. I just picked up a 2021 F150 XLT FX4 brand new because it was at MSRP vs the older trucks selling at over MSRP. Granted MSRP of a 2018 is still lower then MSRP of a 2021 but the difference between a low mileage used F150 and a new F150 actually justified buying one new.
This is very true. About 3 months ago, just for fun I got a trade in quote for the truck in this video...it was $41,000....I paid $33,000 for it almost a ear earlier (I still have it, love it). Market has gone insane.
You can do this with a pair of check valves and a tee. Tee the drivers side turbo inlet port to the manifold inlet with check valves on either side of the tee, and the tap of the tee to the outlet of the catch can. The inlet of the can connects to the passenger side valve cover PCV port which has a factory check valve. Put a filter on the drivers side valve cover port and you're done. Do use good hose clamps on any tubing on the manifold side of the check valve as that side gets boost pressure. Everything else will only ever see vacuum (or no) pressure.
Hey- loved your video. I've only ever had F-150's and is my fourth (2016). It has 68000 on it now and I Love it!!! I drove other brands, and they can't compare to these. If you would put up your paint correction videos that would be great. I don't know if you do anything with door ding removal... That would be great too.
Great video! I will be adding the catch cans just like you did, thanks! I don't believe in anything but paper air filters on turbo engines. You don't need extra flow, it is going to boost to a max pressure(15ish psi in this case) and then dump the rest via the waste gate. I've been through the aftermarket world on my cummins and can tell you with certainty that none of them filter as well as a high quality paper filter. If you or anyone is in dusty conditions I strongly recommend stock paper filters.
The 2.7 is 1 of the most reliable motors out there. Nothing needs to be done except good oil. Catch cans are not needed in the 2ng gen at all. The BIO belts are fine and have been used for decades in Tractors and bigger. Just maintain your truck you'll be fine. If your concerned add a oil pressure gauge or OB like Banks ainsinstall a Baxter kit.
Hello, first of all, thanks for such a good information for these beautiful trucks, after analyzing what you recommend, it is very valuable for me your answer. What value really adds, adding E3 spark plugs to these vehicles?. Thanks for answering. BR
Cannot do that because that's where they hide the radar for the lane guidance system on Platinum/Limited and King Ranch's. The metal of the plate would block the signals.
Would like to see a long term comparison of the valves with and without a catch can setup and how much differece in performance and mileage it makes. 218,000 on my 2013 3.5 ecoboost , rough idle on startup, but fine after about 1 minute.
Catch can is great it you are in an area that doesn’t freeze. There is moisture created and it will freeze in he catch can and eventually plug it creating a high pressure build up and could blow out seals like a rear main seal or the weakest link and now you have a oil leak
I live in a place where it is often below freezing and it's never an issue because of the amount of oil that is mixed in to that moisture. I've never had any issues with it freezing and when it's running there's actually heat which would melt any blockage before it had a chance to blow out a seal.
@@Trialnerror I'd be more worried about Armor All, and aerosols outside my engine compartment... but then again, I might beat a person if I caught them with either of those in my paint booth. LOL
The catch cans are definitely needed on the 1st Gen motors but are not really needed on the 2nd Generation Ecoboost motors because they have port injection as well as direct injection. The port injection helps to keep the intake valves cleaner which was the main issue with the 1st Generation motors.
Thank you for the straight talk and helpful info, I have just recently purchased a 2018 F150 w/ the 2.7L and want to keep it running well as long as I can. Any other advice you give on maintaining an ecoBoost F150 would be much appreciated , thanks again!
In 2018 the 2.7 got dual injection so u don't get intake valve coaking. A catch can is not as important if u have port and direct but would still run one if u can.
So this kind of just happened to me, I been looking for a truck for a bit, my wife and I had several criteria that it needed to meet, and stubbled across a 2013 3.5L ecoboost, that only had 18000 miles on it. Needles to say it is now in my driveway.
Starting in 2017, the 3.5 ecoboost also has port injection and in 2018, the 2.7 ecoboost also got it. No need for a catch can on either once port injection was added.
I half agree with you but its still very much a need. Port injection helps to clean a lot, but eliminating the oil/water from being pushed through in the first place is still a smart move at this price.
@@bruceb1958 Since we're giving unprompted advice.....you should probably get a better understand ring and cylinder wear before expecting people to agree with wrong opinions.....Just because port injection cleans the valves and intake runners, doesn't mean water is the ideal thing to pump through your engine Professor....
Agree with you about the license plate mount position but chucked with your alternative as clearly you don't live anywhere with snow. If I moved mine down like that it would be gone after the first snowfall.
Love the video. I'm buying a 2013 f150 ecoboost this week and want to add the catch can system. Any way you could do an indepth video on hose routing and mounting cans. Also love the aem intake hose.
Thanks for video could not install in the same place as you did. I put them on the back fire wall. Still wondering about the check valves though, anyone else not install them or did install them?
Catch can is a great idea . I did a similar set up . I change out my filters once or twice a year . Ford filters . I use a product yo clean out the motor . Probably did it twice in 7 years . The cooler protection isn't a must . 160k o issue on my cooler . I did drill a tiny hole into the plastic side of the cooler to let oil out years before the catch can mod. Worked great . Still have that hole .
Hmm I have a 2013 ecoboost mkz with 246,765 miles on I use mobil one 5w30 and mobil 1 oil filters I change my cabin and air filter every 10 k and trans fluid every 30k I also use mobil or chevron gas and if I can't find those shell
To reduce intake deposits use better oil and fuel. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is my recommendation. Never switch brands of oil. The additive packages of various brands fight each other. Use top tier gas only and a fuel system cleaner every 20k or so. The more you use the turbos the sooner you need to change the oil. Get a transmission skid plate to slow down the catalytic converter thieves. Install Bilstein Shocks. If you use your truck for hauling and towing don’t “level” it. It will get level when a trailer is hitched up in a load of gravel is dumped in. Nothing says “Poser” like a useless leveled truck tail dragging down the highway. 😜 Drive it until fully warmed up at least once a week. Short trips and low mileage are bad for these trucks. The battery will die, condensation and fuel dilution will contaminate the oil.
You could have mounted the front license plate on the FORD bracket that replaces the left bumper pad...see earlier model w/turbo...MY '11 - '14. So how did you mount the snazzy red dual catch-can array pleez? Thnx!
@@Trialnerror I don't know nuthin' 'bout no RADAR. If you mean Active Cruise Control, then no, my truck is MY2013. I am unsure how FORD's Cruise sys operates. My INFINITI has the Active & utilizes LIDAR.
My ecobost the license plate is on that black piece on the bumper but I do need to put a grill in where the iner cooler is I have been meaning to do that since 2013 when I got it
Great video, I'm thinking of doing this to my 2.7, and glad to see how cheap this is and how good it looks under the hood. Not sure who put your license plate frame on your truck but the ecoboost's that my buddy and I have both had them mounted on the passenger side black plastic on our bumpers from factory (probably would've made it easier to drill into the bumper for you lol)
My previous gen had the plate mounted there too. However, my current truck has a sensor behind that plate (forward collision or cruise distance monitor I think). As he has a Platinum I assume he's got one there as well.
Great video… only a 1,000 miles per year? My 2015 3.5 is almost to 300k miles. No catch can and all oil changes were 10k intervals. Maybe half million miles if I wouldve installed a catch can.
I have a 2016 F150 with the 3.5 boost. I just replaced a leaky valve cover on the passenger side. I was very interested to see how the topside of the head looked after 140,000 miles. I do have 2 UPR catch cans on the engine, I run the Amsoil Signature Series 0w20, change it every 5000 to 6000 miles. Upon inspection, it is absolutely spotless! I was able to inspect the primary chain tensioner as well, showing 3 teeth, which equates to little chain stretch. I am very pleased with this engine but to make it live, you have to take care of it!
Hi, I just bought a new 2024 Raptor that comes with the 3.5l Ecoboost. It's my first Ecoboost truck and all new to me. Have they done anything to the newer engines to improve or nullify blow by? Should I do the same upgrade now or wait for a certain amount of break in miles before I do so? Thanks
Nice video. I never heard of a dual catch can but that makes sense. I agree with spark plug change intervals, absolutely no k&n filter and oil change no later than 5,000 miles. In your situation yes at least once a year. I’m assuming you had no carbon issues with your vehicle having 50,000 miles on it when you bought it? Nice truck.
I scoped out the heads and they are relatively clean with just a little carbon on some of the edges but I want to keep it that way! Thanks for watching!
The only k&n "filter" I'll ever use is the cabin air filter on my civic. I only went that route because when dust gets past that, it's not going to hurt anything and I was already in there to replace a failed thermal fuse for the blower motor. As for use on an engine, I'll never make that mistake again. A k&n intake took a perfectly fine 4.6 in a 98 f150 and caused oil burning due to inadequate air filtration.
Great video. I am in the market for a 2018+ F-150 XLT (or Lariat) SuperCab 4x with the 3.5L EcoBoost and max towing package. Thank you for sharing! - New Subscriber
Just got around to installing these two catch cans on a 2018 F150 2.7L per this vid. Good video but a few things I ran into. 1) 12' of 1/2" ID hose worked out perfect for install, Thank You 2) 10 min. for hose install? nota unless you have every thing laid out, cut right, and have your stop watch and are ready to sprint to action assembly line style. On you mark get set GO! 3) There was another tee on the driver side boost hose that had an electrical connection that also needed installed. 4) I mounted my 2 catch cans on the inbrd. side of the air filter box, that was the only place that made sense and had enough room to stay out of the way of other components. This by far took the most time for layout/drilling/ shim fabrication and installation. 5) The engine fittings were reused but I just carefully cut the the old plastic tubing off with one vertical slice being careful to not cut the oring that's on the connector. 6) With the engine running there is serious suction coming from the dipstick on R/H side catch can after unscrewing it and also a good way to check your hoses for blockages and kinks. 7) Good call, 5000 miles is a good number for oil change as you are getting rid of the contaminants that are being dumped into your Oh so wonderful synthetic oil.
I just bought a 2018 F-150 5.0, 28k miles. I'm waiting for my JLT 3.0 to arrive. I'll install it on the passenger side. I didn't realize one was needed on the driver side as well. Thanks for the tip. BTW: I spent a week or so trying to decide which catch can to purchase. It seems to me the better the filtering system, the better the can. But there are not enough videos discussing the filters. Some cans are simply empty, with the In/Out offset a little. What about these cans in your vid? Do they have a good filter/screen?
I have the jlt 3.0. I like it. If you decide to do keep it I would suggest getting the JLT can extension from Amazon. Costs $40 and increases the capacity to 6oz instead of the 3oz
filtering is a non issue regarding a catch can. It simply sits in line of the hoses from the manifold and the heavy deposits and oil drop into the can and the air and vapor continue on. Thats why it is called a catch can. It catches the stuff you don't want to reburn in your engine.
Good video and useful information. I'd like to see how you installed the catch cans, or, if you can share it in a written response it would be great. Thanks!
I have a Gen 2 Raptor,,,,, I just don’t use a front license plate. As for a catch can, only have the passenger side installed and not worrying about the other side as I see very little oil on the bad side. IE about one OZ or less every oil change at 3500-4000 miles.
Biggest problem with these engines is carbon build up change oil alot. Do the tune ups when required. Run top tier fuel and do an intake cleaning and the throttle body
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Thanks for watching, here's a full parts list: Catch Can (2 needed): www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XK9PTP7/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=trialnerror-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B06XK9PTP7&linkId=c05f74427892e3f588afac517e1b605e
APS Billet Lower Grill: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07819M8SV/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=trialnerror-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B07819M8SV&linkId=aca6c631f68f1482156d41fa1dbd4a70
AEM DryFlow Air Filter: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006OKXNFE/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=trialnerror-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B006OKXNFE&linkId=1f0389d69717aa4dfc989895e1025695
BRAND SPANKIN' NEW CHANNEL MERCH! teespring.com/stores/trial-n-error
More monkey business? Find me on Facebook: facebook.com/TH-camTrialnerror/?view_public_for=232815904127596
2011 is when Ford finally got serious about it's engine technology.
Are you sure the catch cans are the same? In your video there is the silver button looking part but on the Amazon listing it's nowhere to be found.
@iAmJohn2004 The silver button is a different model that has an optional breather valve that he doesn't have installed. The silver button is just a cap for where the breather valve would go. I tried to link the model that he used but I guess he deleted my comment? I don't know 🤷.
I bought an engineered kit from Mishimoto for my 2016 2.7 ecoboost and put almost 200k miles on the truck with it. Best investment ever. I installed the catchcan at about 25k miles. And cleaned the throttle body and all three MAP sensors. I checked those another 2 times i owned the truck and they were clean. So absolutely worth ot on the ecoboost. Never once had an issue wirh that truck increadibly reliable. All basic maint. On the 200k miles i had it.
Just stumbled on this video. I have an F150 with the 3.5 ecoboost as well and love it. Agree wholeheartedly on the oil changes. I do mine every 5000 miles max. I also highly recommend adding MotorKote to your oil. I'm usually bot one for additives and snake oils but this is a good one that actually does what it says it does. Those turbos spin at 170000 RPM at highway speeds and generate a lot of heat. Those little micro ports can get clogged and no oil = kerploded turbo. It also does a lot to prevent that cam phaser rattle that these are known for. Also, after driving and parking your truck, let it idle for about 5 minutes before shutdown. It allows the turbos to cool properly and prevent premature failure. I learned that from our mechanic that maintains our fleet of ambulances that have turbo diesels.
The turbos in the ecoboost are also watercooled with a pump that runs after shutoff so unless you're running the engine super hard you shouldn't need to idle it, but it never hurts to err on the side of caution after a big drive.
I use the Motorkote Hyperlubricant engine treatment. Watch the demos and read the reviews. It's the only oil additive that actually does what it says it does.
I just purchased a use 2013 F150 ecoboss turbo .. I am new in this type of pickup truck.
I 2nd the coolent pumping after vehicle is shut off, but I still let it idle for a good 30 seconds to let everything get back to operational temperature.....
Coolant pump applies to the 2.3li ecoboost as well?
I just installed this catch can setup and it works great. There is a sensor on the driver’s side PCV tube. It needs be installed on the hose coming off of the turbo pipe, not the valve cover or you will get an engine light.
Thank you for making this video, I just bought my first Ecoboost F-150 with 50,000 miles appreciate all of the tips!
is this truck similar to chevy 2.7 turbomax 2021?
I just purchased a 2015 F-150 Platinum truck with the 3.5 L. It scares the crap out of me because it's so Hi-Tech. Thanks for the video. I need to learn more about this truck.
How is your truck holding up
Good video. This helped me with installing dual catch cans on our 2015 Expedition 3.5L Ecoboost. It took me longer to make the bracket to mount them on the firewall than it did to install the catch cans and hoses. Thanks.
I just bought an '18 F150 with 160k miles. Runs perfect, completely stock. Truck literally looks like a 20k mile truck. Previous owner def took care of it. Had full records and was Ford certified which means all oil changes were done on time and at an authorized dealer.
It feels like a new truck, smells and looks like a new truck. Pulls everything I need it to. But I haven't did the mods yet, which I do plan to do.
The first thing I did was put a soft tonneau cover on, which now everything stays dry in the bed. Also installed a 2nd row seat tray, which holds all my straps, fire extinguisher, and junk under the back seat. Installed husky liners which def keep the dirt off the carpet.
Also installed a 3/4" hose on the evaporator drain pipe, passenger side firewall behind the wheel well liner, to prevent the common leak problem which hasn't appeared yet. I'm thinking about installing a programmer to remove the top speed limiter, and gain a little more power, lol. Not that it needs it, but why not...
I am about to get a '17, what issue is there with the evaporator drain pipe? I haven't heard anything about that before....Thank You for the info...
@trentonharris5521
Where the condensate drain goes through the firewall it's poorly executed such that it's easy for the condensate to dribble back into and under the foam seal and under your passenger firewall/floor carpet. I had to do some serious remediation on mine since I have Husky mats and didn't discover it until I removed that one for a deep cleaning. They sell an overpriced elbow to fit over the drain and route the condensate clear of the wicking seal. Easy to find YT vids and accounts in forums with helpful details/mods to insure success. Would've cost Ford 29 cents to do it right.
I just ordered two catch cans I was going to put one on,until I watched your video. I was wondering why nobody mentioned anything about the left side of engine .Thanks a lot for the info.I just subscribed.I’ll be seeing you again.....
Great advice. I just purchased a 2012 f150 fx4 3.5 turbo and will get the catch can you covered in this video asap. stay safe
Nice! I have 13 fx4, I still love those years body style
Can you add more pics on how you mounted the catch cans and routing the hoses? Thanks! Enjoyed the video.
I have 293,456 miles on my 2011 f150 lariat 3.5 and other than the K&N drop in air filter, MSD coils and 4” MBRP exhaust the engine is bone stock and I tow large 25’-35’ yachts with it every week and this thing still has a TON of power, no catch cans, no tune.
That's crazy awesome. I can't believe the amount of hard mileage you racked up. Anything else would have been dead twice over.
Your gas milage is prob bad after all those miles. Mines also has the same milage and only.get 16-17 mpg on the highway
@@TheThecharliejolly I’ve always gotten 15-17 in town and sometimes 17-19 on the freeway since I bought it, hasn’t changed much.
KN is a joke
@@kenj.8897 KN? The air filter?
They put the tag over the cooler to cut down on condensation getting in the system. Now they use shutter vents. The water in the system was causing plug problems. 2018 and newer use dual injection to help clean the valves and performance. Separators are a nice thing to have should've come from the factory with it.
That's really good information. Mine has the shutters and I disconnected them. My turbo knowledge comes from the aftermarket so I was thinking; "more air, more better". I had ASSumed the shutters were for mileage/EPA issues. I'll be plugging them back in now! Thanks again Pat for the great info!
They started the newer (revised) block in 2017...dual injection, revamped oil circulation in the block and heads, dual cam chains
In very cold winters, condensate in the catch can lines will freeze - unless you mount the cans so that gravity drains it into the can when you shut down the engine. My 2012 F150 (3.5L) had this trouble and oil (>1 quart) blew past a valve cover gasket. The oil leak stopped once the ice in the line melted & the crankcase pressure normalized. You southern boys won't have this problem, of course.
nh plates means it gets cold here to bud!
Had the exact same thing happen to my 2012 3.5 in the winter. Needed a new valve cover gasket. Our winters get cold enough that I will have to take the cans off for the season and replace it with the OEM hard line. Kind of defeats the purpose of the catch can setup for that part of the year, but can’t keep blowing gaskets. I am hoping that all that water condensate that forms in the winter might actually have a bit of a cleaning effect . In the summer the cans catch oil/ unburnt fuel. In the winter the amount it catches quadruples but I it seems to be 80% water.
@@justaguyinagaragewithasign3244 do you have problems in winter
I'm in the north too. If the can is located lower down and lines are ran so there are no low points and gravity will work, are there any issues that could impact gasket?
@@johannesgrimm9911 I also gave up completely on the catch cans in the winter. Some guys are drilling a small hole at the low point of the intercooler (it acts like a big catch can anyway). But, then you got that crap draining all over the place - not being captured in a can. The slight loss of boost in not significant, they say.
I bought a used 2012 f150 about 5 years ago. I got a scorching good deal. It had a few items of neglect. sticky valves was one of the issues. I solved that and have no issues. I read about catch cans and opted to generate something Simler for NO cost. It is called a weep hole in the inner cooler. I leave it unplugged for the bypass gunk to drain. The weep hole serves as a port of entry for intake cleaning. It cleans the residue from the remining bypass gunk from the valve stems without messing with the downstream sensors.
Drilling into the intercooler? Wouldn't that cause a boost leak?
@@chiingythao570 not if it is small. Mine is a tight fit for a straw from an injector cleaner. If you are still worried use a small screw to plug it. Just drain it often
A demonstration on how you made the bracket would have been neat
Yes!!
Just took some 18 gauge steel and bent over the top edge to make a lip. Screwed the cans into the long part and hung the lip from the factory battery tray. Super simple.
@@Trialnerror do those can lids where the inlet/outlet connections tap into have some sort of condensation screen involved? I have the JLT passngr can system since 15k miles, but wld like to put the drvrs on now at 33k, but if there isnt a screen those things arent performing to full potential vs the pricey ones, or possibly doing anything at all. Im not ragging on it, im 100% all for dealing with this concern on my '16 2.7l EB
@@Mike_Jones68 I bought the same catch cans (Same design anyway: Evil Energy w/o breather). They have a nice compartment on the "input" side that you can put steel wool into. I paid $19 each for two of them, and they are really good quality. The fittings and hoses are "meh" but easily replaced with quality parts and it is much cheaper than "brand name" catch cans. Very happy with mine so far.
@@TrialnerrorI’m curious about something. I did the same thing on my 2017 2.7L Ecoboost. About a week after installing my trick started making a high pitched whining noise. Couldn’t figure it out so I ended up at the dealer. They told me I was not supposed to put one on the driver’s side. I removed it and reinstalled the hoses that came on the truck. Noise eliminated. How have you not had the same issue?
Yes..buying an unplanned 2013 F150 EcoBoost is what I did also as I past a Ford Dealership and the sticker price and truck caught my eye. Of course I had to buy a small economy car to go with it.
I've got an 11 3.5 eco platinum with 293,756 and no catch can... yet. But I change oil ever 5,000 and drive it like an old man 50 miles every day. Thanks for showing this mod can be done cheaply. I've got 2 in my cart now.
I bought one same oil was changed every 3000 miles since runs great 👍 at similar milage .
just got a 2014 3.5 ecoboost with 100k miles. Then did research lol. It has had oil changes every 10k but I'm hoping I can do a few things to it, change oil every 5k, and not deeply regret this purchase lol. Prolly doin the catch can first and checking the intake valves for carbon.
I have 100k on my king ranch already, only have changed the cam shaft rear seal and the check valve and solenoid valve other than that its been regular maintenance. Runs like new.
Thanks for the video
Good point on not blocking the space on front grill with a license plate. I would rather use 1”-2” spaces, though, but keep the plates on its place.
About buying new....I purchased a brand new 2019 F150 Lariat 502a package with moon roof FX4 in the 4th quarter of the year, got it at 0.99% Ford financed, they gave a new set of Winter tires with Ford Alloy wheel (not ugly steel rims) and Ford Tonneau Cover 50% off, with new Weather Teck mats for Free. Now coming to the point, I shopped a lot before buyin for used F150 Lariat or Platinum and none, I mean none I found which actually beat the price Ford offered for a new one...the Used price with finance monthly premium was either same as what Ford offered for a new or in some cases more..I even tried 4 years old models, no luck, so why bother buying used, I ended up buying a brand spanking new F150 loaded Lariat with all free goodies, Loving it (for family personal use).
Wow, that's a good deal! You're right, especially right now the used pricing for full size trucks is flat out insane. Carvana is offering me $10k more than what I paid for this truck. World's gone nutty.
About the plate location.... on previous gen 3.5's it was mounted on one of the bumper pads. However, there was an issue with the intercooler cooling the air TOO much. If I recall, this sometimes resulted in excess condensation buildup which led to water vapour entering the combustion chamber and reducing engine performance.
Ford's fix for this was to install a plastic shroud that partially covers the intercooler! I'm not sure if that shroud is still present in later models but I could totally believe that they would relocate the plate back to center to act as a shroud. This would save them money on two fronts.
I just got a 3.5 ecoboost the exact way your introduction stated lol. I'm glad I'm not the only one.
Congrats! Enjoy the new ride man. They are fantastic trucks.
Thanks for the tip on the OE ends would have never thought to use them 👍
I just bought a 3.5 Eco with 48k on it. I like the truck A LOT so far but I'm nervous. Always been a preventive maintenance guy (I guess that's the US Army in me) but if something goes wrong I hope it does before the warranty is up.
Great video I have a 12 F150 3.5 EchoBoost. I don't drive it often because of all the problems others have had with. My advisor is a friend thats service manager at the local Ford dealership but my tips come fron TH-cam.
Subscribed to the channel! I love my '18 2.7 Babyboost, that I got in Dec.' 21, with 83,000 miles on the clock.
I don't know what you do for a living, but I wish FoMoCo would pick you up as a common sense engineer! Great tips, thanks from a Texas fan.
Still running strong??
That open in the bumper. Makes a great step to be used to get in the engine bay or cleaning the center part of the hood
You can add a bull bar and just step on that as well
I was that guy too.. I never would buy or had purchased a new truck or car, worse financial decision ever. Then COVID hit and right now USED trucks are selling for over MSRP and if you can find the right dealer you can pick up a brand new truck at MSRP. I just picked up a 2021 F150 XLT FX4 brand new because it was at MSRP vs the older trucks selling at over MSRP. Granted MSRP of a 2018 is still lower then MSRP of a 2021 but the difference between a low mileage used F150 and a new F150 actually justified buying one new.
This is very true. About 3 months ago, just for fun I got a trade in quote for the truck in this video...it was $41,000....I paid $33,000 for it almost a ear earlier (I still have it, love it). Market has gone insane.
Hilarious bro. And that is my exact truck. Have had it five years without a single problem. Love it and recommend it. Used or new.
What’s hilarious??
@@poopstain5216 Have you seen my face?
Trial N' ERROR WHAT THE FUCK
Every time you said blow by after the initial punch line had me cracking up 🤣
More videos on the f150 please, paint correction polish wax. That's a gorgeous truck
Thanks for posting this!! Just finished mine today and used your video as reference. Keep em coming!!
I have a 2017 ford expedition xlt ecoboost with 223k still going strong is all about how u take care of your cars and trucks
so glad i found this, i have a 2015 king 3.5 king ranch, runs amazing and its gonna run better thanks to you👍🏼
In 2017 Ford added port injectors. So they are both direct and port injected which greatly helps clean the oily crap.
You can do this with a pair of check valves and a tee. Tee the drivers side turbo inlet port to the manifold inlet with check valves on either side of the tee, and the tap of the tee to the outlet of the catch can. The inlet of the can connects to the passenger side valve cover PCV port which has a factory check valve. Put a filter on the drivers side valve cover port and you're done. Do use good hose clamps on any tubing on the manifold side of the check valve as that side gets boost pressure. Everything else will only ever see vacuum (or no) pressure.
Hey- loved your video. I've only ever had F-150's and is my fourth (2016). It has 68000 on it now and I Love it!!! I drove other brands, and they can't compare to these. If you would put up your paint correction videos that would be great. I don't know if you do anything with door ding removal... That would be great too.
I catch can every vehicle I have... I use a see-thru bowl though, so I can just glance at it while checking the oil. yours looks nicer though =)
Agreed. I'm going to put one on my 17' F150 2.7L and my 14' Honda Odyssey. Great video, tons of value for $50!
Great video! I will be adding the catch cans just like you did, thanks! I don't believe in anything but paper air filters on turbo engines. You don't need extra flow, it is going to boost to a max pressure(15ish psi in this case) and then dump the rest via the waste gate. I've been through the aftermarket world on my cummins and can tell you with certainty that none of them filter as well as a high quality paper filter. If you or anyone is in dusty conditions I strongly recommend stock paper filters.
As a diesel technician I stand by oem filters are far superior for all stock vehicles and most mild builds
The 2.7 is 1 of the most reliable motors out there. Nothing needs to be done except good oil. Catch cans are not needed in the 2ng gen at all. The BIO belts are fine and have been used for decades in Tractors and bigger. Just maintain your truck you'll be fine. If your concerned add a oil pressure gauge or OB like Banks ainsinstall a Baxter kit.
If you can, mount the catch cans in front of the radiator so the cooler air aids condensing the vapors.
Damn that's a beautiful truck...I can see why you would be lured into purchasing it driving past the lot! Just gorgeous.
Thank you and thanks for watching!
I do the same thing buying 3 years old truck saves of lot of money .
Hello, first of all, thanks for such a good information for these beautiful trucks, after analyzing what you recommend, it is very valuable for me your answer. What value really adds, adding E3 spark plugs to these vehicles?. Thanks for answering. BR
Buy them used and save $$ and enjoy blow by & blow bye. you just like to say blow bye 😁. Great catch can set up. This guy knows the value of a dollar
When I bought it, my 2014 Ecoboost F-150 had the front license plate mounted on the driver side of the intercooler intake.
Cannot do that because that's where they hide the radar for the lane guidance system on Platinum/Limited and King Ranch's. The metal of the plate would block the signals.
Would like to see a long term comparison of the valves with and without a catch can setup and how much differece in performance and mileage it makes. 218,000 on my 2013 3.5 ecoboost , rough idle on startup, but fine after about 1 minute.
Oh so that's why the car shakes at startup while cold especially?? Rough idling from carbon?!
@@DominiAeternum That is my guess.
@@mevmevmev I've heard even newer ecoboost's suffer from this, & dealer shops tell owners it's just normal for these
Can you explain more about the bracket you used to attach the catch cans, the size and how you attached it?
No response huh?
@@george5697 I responded to half a dozen of the same question in these comments already. At a certain point I need to manage my time.
Catch can is great it you are in an area that doesn’t freeze. There is moisture created and it will freeze in he catch can and eventually plug it creating a high pressure build up and could blow out seals like a rear main seal or the weakest link and now you have a oil leak
I live in a place where it is often below freezing and it's never an issue because of the amount of oil that is mixed in to that moisture. I've never had any issues with it freezing and when it's running there's actually heat which would melt any blockage before it had a chance to blow out a seal.
Never had an issue with oiled filters... alot of people over oil them in my experience. Good video
Well it depends, if you like fisheye's then the oil is a great choice ;)
@@Trialnerror I'd be more worried about Armor All, and aerosols outside my engine compartment... but then again, I might beat a person if I caught them with either of those in my paint booth. LOL
The catch cans are definitely needed on the 1st Gen motors but are not really needed on the 2nd Generation Ecoboost motors because they have port injection as well as direct injection. The port injection helps to keep the intake valves cleaner which was the main issue with the 1st Generation motors.
What years are the first gens? I have a 2016 f150
@@dre7018 It depends on which motor and what vehicle it's in but yours should be a 1st gen motor.
@@damon20r 3.5l sir. So i should most definitely get the catch cans?
@@dre7018 I would.
@@damon20r ty sir.
What’s the mounting situation?
Thank you for the straight talk and helpful info, I have just recently purchased a 2018 F150 w/ the 2.7L and want to keep it running well as long as I can. Any other advice you give on maintaining an ecoBoost F150 would be much appreciated , thanks again!
i want 300,000 miles on mine.
I just got a 2020 F150 V6 eco boost twin turbo, i see you’ve owned yours for almost a year now. Any tips?
In 2018 the 2.7 got dual injection so u don't get intake valve coaking. A catch can is not as important if u have port and direct but would still run one if u can.
how did you mount the catch cans
I have a Lincoln MKS Eco-boost vthe 1st thing I did when I bought it was install the catch can.
Any direct injection engine should have one on it.
I just bought a 19 F150 XLT Sport yesterday, in Ruby Red with the 2.7
So this kind of just happened to me, I been looking for a truck for a bit, my wife and I had several criteria that it needed to meet, and stubbled across a 2013 3.5L ecoboost, that only had 18000 miles on it. Needles to say it is now in my driveway.
I really like how you take care of your truck. The license plate mount sucks though. You need the off center mount.
JLT Performance makes fitted catch cans. I have one on our Ford Edge.
Question did you uses a one way flow valve or is it necessary?
Starting in 2017, the 3.5 ecoboost also has port injection and in 2018, the 2.7 ecoboost also got it. No need for a catch can on either once port injection was added.
I half agree with you but its still very much a need. Port injection helps to clean a lot, but eliminating the oil/water from being pushed through in the first place is still a smart move at this price.
You should fully agree with me. There is absolutely zero reason to put a catch can on the engines that have added port injection.@@Trialnerror
@@bruceb1958 Since we're giving unprompted advice.....you should probably get a better understand ring and cylinder wear before expecting people to agree with wrong opinions.....Just because port injection cleans the valves and intake runners, doesn't mean water is the ideal thing to pump through your engine Professor....
I feel like I need to call you on the phone while doing this amount of modifications! Lol!
Does 2011 Ecoboost F-150 have auxiliary gear
Agree with you about the license plate mount position but chucked with your alternative as clearly you don't live anywhere with snow. If I moved mine down like that it would be gone after the first snowfall.
I'm in NH....AKA the White Mountains. No issue with snow and this plate mount, I also don't plow it into snowbanks :)
Love the video. I'm buying a 2013 f150 ecoboost this week and want to add the catch can system. Any way you could do an indepth video on hose routing and mounting cans. Also love the aem intake hose.
Very nice Vlog. I’m looking at a ‘16 Expedition tonight with a 3.5 and 95k miles. If we get it I’ll be doing some of these fixes.
Thanks for video could not install in the same place as you did. I put them on the back fire wall. Still wondering about the check valves though, anyone else not install them or did install them?
Just got a 2017 XLT and I have a lot to learn...thanks for the heads up
No problem 👍 Congrats on the new truck!
I have a 2018 Ford Explorer Sport EcoBoost and I’m looking to doing this mod but will it work?
All new Ford’s regardless of being boosted eat up plugs it’s a dual spark ignition system. Each ignition event the plugs fire twice
How did you mount the catch cans? Looks like you somehow mounted to battery bracket?
Catch can is a great idea . I did a similar set up . I change out my filters once or twice a year . Ford filters . I use a product yo clean out the motor . Probably did it twice in 7 years . The cooler protection isn't a must . 160k o issue on my cooler .
I did drill a tiny hole into the plastic side of the cooler to let oil out years before the catch can mod. Worked great . Still have that hole .
Can you make a video on that
Thanks dude! Just picked up a used 2.7 so this was very helpful. New toy to obsess over and learn how to safeguard for the long haul.
Great to hear! Congrats on the new ride!
Hmm I have a 2013 ecoboost mkz with 246,765 miles on I use mobil one 5w30 and mobil 1 oil filters I change my cabin and air filter every 10 k and trans fluid every 30k I also use mobil or chevron gas and if I can't find those shell
Mobile or Chevron? Seriously? You must own Ft Knox it's like burning Gold direct.
To reduce intake deposits use better oil and fuel. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is my recommendation. Never switch brands of oil. The additive packages of various brands fight each other.
Use top tier gas only and a fuel system cleaner every 20k or so.
The more you use the turbos the sooner you need to change the oil.
Get a transmission skid plate to slow down the catalytic converter thieves.
Install Bilstein Shocks.
If you use your truck for hauling and towing don’t “level” it. It will get level when a trailer is hitched up in a load of gravel is dumped in. Nothing says “Poser” like a useless leveled truck tail dragging down the highway. 😜
Drive it until fully warmed up at least once a week. Short trips and low mileage are bad for these trucks. The battery will die, condensation and fuel dilution will contaminate the oil.
You could have mounted the front license plate on the FORD bracket that replaces the left bumper pad...see earlier model w/turbo...MY '11 - '14.
So how did you mount the snazzy red dual catch-can array pleez?
Thnx!
Can't do that on a Platinum as it blocks the radar. For the dual catch can mounts, I literally just screwed a piece of metal into the battery tray.
@@Trialnerror I have a Platinum...that's where the plate brkt. is mounted..left of center...factory mntnd.
@@SpicyRok7482 Do you have the radar option because that would certainly cause a problem.
@@Trialnerror I don't know nuthin' 'bout no RADAR.
If you mean Active Cruise Control, then no, my truck is MY2013.
I am unsure how FORD's Cruise sys operates.
My INFINITI has the Active & utilizes LIDAR.
@@SpicyRok7482 LOL, Yep that's it. The adaptive cruise uses a radar module behind that plastic area. Metal in front would block it.
How did you mount the catch can bracket? Did that bracket come with the catch can kit? Thx for the video very helpful.
Larger inner cooler makes a hell of a difference.
Used your instructions, worked great! Thanks! How often do you have to Clean out the Catch Cans?
I just empty them when I change the oil and that seems to work out perfectly.
My ecobost the license plate is on that black piece on the bumper but I do need to put a grill in where the iner cooler is I have been meaning to do that since 2013 when I got it
Great video, I'm thinking of doing this to my 2.7, and glad to see how cheap this is and how good it looks under the hood. Not sure who put your license plate frame on your truck but the ecoboost's that my buddy and I have both had them mounted on the passenger side black plastic on our bumpers from factory (probably would've made it easier to drill into the bumper for you lol)
My previous gen had the plate mounted there too. However, my current truck has a sensor behind that plate (forward collision or cruise distance monitor I think). As he has a Platinum I assume he's got one there as well.
After watching your video I did a setup like yours thank you for saving me a ton money.
Great to hear!
Great video. For the drivers side connections, I'm assuming the connection on the crankcase by the oil fill goes to the "in" side on the catch can?
Sorry, just saw this and yes you've got it right!
Great video… only a 1,000 miles per year? My 2015 3.5 is almost to 300k miles. No catch can and all oil changes were 10k intervals. Maybe half million miles if I wouldve installed a catch can.
I have a 2016 F150 with the 3.5 boost. I just replaced a leaky valve cover on the passenger side. I was very interested to see how the topside of the head looked after 140,000 miles. I do have 2 UPR catch cans on the engine, I run the Amsoil Signature Series 0w20, change it every 5000 to 6000 miles. Upon inspection, it is absolutely spotless! I was able to inspect the primary chain tensioner as well, showing 3 teeth, which equates to little chain stretch. I am very pleased with this engine but to make it live, you have to take care of it!
How many feet of hose did you need to get?
Hi, I just bought a new 2024 Raptor that comes with the 3.5l Ecoboost. It's my first Ecoboost truck and all new to me. Have they done anything to the newer engines to improve or nullify blow by? Should I do the same upgrade now or wait for a certain amount of break in miles before I do so? Thanks
Nice video. I never heard of a dual catch can but that makes sense. I agree with spark plug change intervals, absolutely no k&n filter and oil change no later than 5,000 miles. In your situation yes at least once a year. I’m assuming you had no carbon issues with your vehicle having 50,000 miles on it when you bought it? Nice truck.
I scoped out the heads and they are relatively clean with just a little carbon on some of the edges but I want to keep it that way! Thanks for watching!
Could you share a little more on the mounting bracket design with install? I have a 2018 F150 and it looks like a tight fit. Thank you.
What's wrong with the K&N's for Ecoboost's or turbo engines??
The only k&n "filter" I'll ever use is the cabin air filter on my civic. I only went that route because when dust gets past that, it's not going to hurt anything and I was already in there to replace a failed thermal fuse for the blower motor. As for use on an engine, I'll never make that mistake again. A k&n intake took a perfectly fine 4.6 in a 98 f150 and caused oil burning due to inadequate air filtration.
@@BryanBlumer damn, really?! Did you forget to oil it up periodically? Alot of people say those really aren't lifetime filters.
Great video. I am in the market for a 2018+ F-150 XLT (or Lariat) SuperCab 4x with the 3.5L EcoBoost and max towing package. Thank you for sharing! - New Subscriber
Just got around to installing these two catch cans on a 2018 F150 2.7L per this vid. Good video but a few things I ran into.
1) 12' of 1/2" ID hose worked out perfect for install, Thank You
2) 10 min. for hose install? nota unless you have every thing laid out, cut right, and have your stop watch and are ready to sprint to action assembly line style. On you mark get set GO!
3) There was another tee on the driver side boost hose that had an electrical connection that also needed installed.
4) I mounted my 2 catch cans on the inbrd. side of the air filter box, that was the only place that made sense and had enough room to stay out of the way of other components.
This by far took the most time for layout/drilling/ shim fabrication and installation.
5) The engine fittings were reused but I just carefully cut the the old plastic tubing off with one vertical slice being careful to not cut the oring that's on the connector.
6) With the engine running there is serious suction coming from the dipstick on R/H side catch can after unscrewing it and also a good way to check your hoses for blockages and kinks.
7) Good call, 5000 miles is a good number for oil change as you are getting rid of the contaminants that are being dumped into your Oh so wonderful synthetic oil.
I just bought a 2018 F-150 5.0, 28k miles. I'm waiting for my JLT 3.0 to arrive. I'll install it on the passenger side. I didn't realize one was needed on the driver side as well. Thanks for the tip. BTW: I spent a week or so trying to decide which catch can to purchase. It seems to me the better the filtering system, the better the can. But there are not enough videos discussing the filters. Some cans are simply empty, with the In/Out offset a little. What about these cans in your vid? Do they have a good filter/screen?
Keep an eye on the oil level. Some of those 5L lose oil.
I have the jlt 3.0. I like it. If you decide to do keep it I would suggest getting the JLT can extension from Amazon. Costs $40 and increases the capacity to 6oz instead of the 3oz
filtering is a non issue regarding a catch can. It simply sits in line of the hoses from the manifold and the heavy deposits and oil drop into the can and the air and vapor continue on. Thats why it is called a catch can. It catches the stuff you don't want to reburn in your engine.
Where did you get the mounting bracket to mount them beside the battery?
Good video and useful information. I'd like to see how you installed the catch cans, or, if you can share it in a written response it would be great. Thanks!
Sorry if I missed it. What did you use for a mounting bracket?
Ok thank you ,mine is a 2018 3.5 not sure about the drivers side it looks different than yours, I only did the passenger side today
I have a Gen 2 Raptor,,,,, I just don’t use a front license plate. As for a catch can, only have the passenger side installed and not worrying about the other side as I see very little oil on the bad side. IE about one OZ or less every oil change at 3500-4000 miles.
Yea I get about the same out of the drivers side. My passenger side sure does collect a lot though. Congrats on the Raptor man, sick rig.
Biggest problem with these engines is carbon build up change oil alot. Do the tune ups when required. Run top tier fuel and do an intake cleaning and the throttle body
Can you do a video showing us what's inside those catch cans? is there a filter?